Very useful, thank You. For the step @9:50, the "stop block" to cut all the cards the same lenght, You could use the metal ruler You usually use and some neodimium magnets to keep it in place. Much more precise than the foam gig and clamp and no need to slide the guillotine to the bottom of the table.
This is clever, your method is so efficient and your explanation is nice and clear. Thank you! I’ve been searching for the last 2 hours of how to do this because I want to make tarot cards.
@@RachelBruner hi Rachel! Yes, I did. All my cards turned out fantastic! I made some home brewed stuff for our gaming sessions and the players at my table love them!
I found this video while making some cards for my classroom activities (teacher budget!) Thanks for providing such a useful tutorial! I don't have all these materials but still found a lot of this enlightening and adaptable for my uses.
Nope, no peeling or issues whatsoever! Since there are several steps of the process with different products, it can take some trial and error to see what works for you and what doesn't. I've had wonderful success with the items and process I've used. Have fun!
Whenevr I'm printing cards where the front and back are on differnet sheets of paper. I use a similar method but in a different order. I'll stack two front sheets face to face in a laminate envelope and run that through. Ill cut the excess laminte and be left with two front sheets with laminate of just the back. Then i spray glue the backs directly to that and cut. Very similar, just in a different order. I also use Minwax polyurethane spray instead of the modge podge spray. I let that dry for a full day before any gluing or laminating.
I’ve done this for years too! Except I don’t use laminate or modge. I use sleeves and stock paper. If you only have regular paper, slip in a playing card. I use premium thick sleeves and voila! Easy to slip out to update your build with changes as a designer.
I will have to say your use of the laminating pouch is, for a lack of better words, STRANGE. And I really wonder where you got this Idea. But the way you make your card gives the BEST result of any way I've seen so far! My Hat off to you. When you carefully cut your card the result is nothing short of amazing. Thank you for sharing your technique with us!
Thanks! The idea came when I was chatting online with a fellow print and play crafter. We were talking about different items to use in the middle of a card (the core) and I suddenly wondered what would happen if I used half a sheet of laminate between the front/back of a card and then ran it through the laminator. I was out of town at the time and soon after returning home I tested it out. It was instantly obvious that I'd discovered a very cool method for making cards that have a flexible bend to them but weren't overly thick and stiff.
I am going to definitely try this! I am trying to make my own card game and stuff and I used cardstock for the core and I could barely even bend them. This method seems to work really well. New sub
Rachel Bruner I still have to wait weeks for the paper to arrive in the Netherlands. However I have two questions. 1) Did you use a laser or an inkjet printer to print on the linnen paper (24lbs)? 2) Which cards do you prefer more 24lbs with the core or 32lbs without core? I already had some amazing results with printing (inkjet) on double sides mat paper (180grams) which do require front/back lamination for it to fill stiff and for the cards to move smoothly over each other. Benefit it’s waterproof. It’s to glossy and smooth to look like playing cards, that’s why I can’t wait how it looks on linnen and using this method.
@@markvanwijnen I print using an HP LaserJet Pro MFP M277dw. It's no longer sold but very similar models are. It was around $300 USD at the time I bought it. If I'm using a single sheet of laminate (I prefer 3 mil but 5 mil works too) as the core material I prefer 24 lb linen paper. However, for an easier process, I will sometimes just use 32 lb linen paper for fronts and backs without a core. These cards are VERY thin and do NOT snap like the cards with the laminate. I have some videos that show the difference.
I found I put a book or Few DVD cases on both sides of the laminater so they go in flat and come out flat, the Plastic is Hot and can Stretch and Bend, and once cooled will keep that bend in the laminate.
Your process is basically the one I use except--like a commentator above--I don't do double-sided printing due to the shifting in printing the 2nd side. I've been looking for these glue sheets that I used to use for mounting photos back in the day. I'd use an iron--or a hot press (heck, even a panini-press might work)--to press down for about thirty seconds max and melt the glue sheet in between the two pieces thus bind the items together. Barring that, I'd use a spray glue like scotch 77 between my two pieces of paper and use a "bone knife" or a burnisher to smooth them out when I press them together. In place of a "bone knife" or a burnisher, a rolling pin or even a butter-knife wrapped in a towel would probably work. I don't do the spray-glue as much anymore though due to my having destroyed carpet with my apparent rambunctious over-sprays and for fumes inside. I just haven't been able to source the glue sheets I'm thinking of, but you could cut whatever shape you needed and then press the iron (or hot pressser) down to melt the glue sheet and glue the items. Then i use laminate sheets as you do.
Hi Ed, thanks for your question. Yes, you can use both pieces of the laminate pouch as a core material when making cards. Each sheet of the separated laminate pouch can be used for two pages, so with one pouch I can do 4 sheets of cards.
Hey! I'm Brazilian, so I apologize for the translated English. I'm redoing the entire look of WAR Vikings, cards, pawns, board and some additions that will make it more stylish. Your card making tutorial was the best and most complete I found on the internet without a doubt and it made me very determined to continue making something that looks really cool! I only have one problem, here in Brazil I couldn't find the type of paper you used in your video, and the import tax is VERY high. Do you recommend any other types of paper? Here I can find linen sheets, but cotton only for paintings, which have a very heavy weight.
absolutely love the craftsmanship, reminds me of my time in design college having to prototype everything by hand. unfortunately, looking at the cost of all these materials and equipment, I feel I'm better off buying cheap chinese traditional playing card decks and just printing in a vinyl sticker sheet.
Hi! Fantastic video, id like to followe this steps to create a gift for my friend! But i dont understand what's the first spray you're using, it doesn't seem like the one you use later in the video I'm sorry if you said it in the video, but english isn't my first language, so i could have missed it
Hey Leon! I haven't used label paper for the cards but you probably could! I use label paper all the time for tokens, tiles, player mats, etc. Maybe I'll try it on a smaller game build. I have one that I was thinking of doing and it would be a good test to try. It would cut out the spray glue step of course, which might be really nice. I know others use label paper for cards all the time but not sure if any of them have tried it with my laminate core method.
Great tutorial for a genius idea, Rachel. I do wonder though, since there is only adhesive on one side of that laminate core, have you noticed any splitting on your cards after extensive play? Thank you so much for the video.
Thanks, Joe! I spray adhesive glue to the FULL sheet of cards when attaching the laminate. So although the laminate itself only has adhesive on one side, I've sprayed the cards which puts glue on both sides. No, I have not had ANY problems with splitting of my cards. The spray glue I use works great, I put it on thick. And then running them through the laminator firmly attaches the laminate's adhesive as well, but even without that my other methods of just spray glue have all worked great as long as the sides being glued together are smooth.
This was really great. I like that you used linen paper. I have seen so many videos that used regular paper and glued over card stock or just printed on card stock. They run it in the laminated pouch, and honestly, it looks TACKY! Your deck looks professional. What a great idea to lay the laminate sheet in between the card, so it still has that flexibility. So you sprayed the deck of cards with an acrylic spray I'm assuming to make them somewhat water-resistant? Having the paper go through the laminator doesn't destroy the paper? Is that why you used the acrylic spray? Do I need to be careful about what kind of printer ink I am using? I have a canon pro-100. I am teaching my first year, and my advance graphic students just finished a deck of cards that we are going to print. I am so excited to demo this with them!
Hi Carey, thank you for your comment and questions! I apologize for the delayed reply, I was very sick for a few weeks, then my kids were sick, holidays, family, etc. I spray the cards with acrylic to seal in the toner from printing. Toner from a laser jet can flake off with use, especially with the huge amount of bending the cards receive when shuffling them frequently. I don't think it makes them water resistant but it probably helps protect them a little bit. I haven't tested them with water. No, running the paper through my laminator has not destroyed the paper or damaged it in any way that I am aware of. They seem to go through just fine. I haven't laminated them without spraying them first, so I don't know if that would make a difference. I also don't know if using an inkjet would make a difference. There are a lot of things I haven't tested but if you try something else I would love to hear about your results!
hi & thank you for a really great tutorial. I tried this method & was a little disappointed in the result. (Most likely because my skill level is way below yours) :) Anyway, I found I was able to riffle shuffle the cards nicely but they are too soft & bendy, ie lacking the memory & that snappy spring that factory made cards typically exhibit. I did change a couple of things, I didn't have the 24LB Southwork linen finish paper you used & substituted 32LB Southwork linen finish paper, which is what I had on hand. Obviously this made the cards a hair thicker than the ones you made for this video. I also used a different glue (Aleene's tacky spray vs the 3M Super 77 you used). Again, it is what I had on hand. I followed up w/a 2nd attempt, this time using an adhesive backed clear inkjet printing paper as the core, in place of the 5 mil laminating pouches you used. The clear paper was actually 5 mils thick (vs the 2.5 mils when splitting a laminating pouch into two halves). Using this method, I only needed to run them thru my laminator using the cold setting, since there was already the adhesive backing & the spray glue. This gave the cards better memory than the first set, yet I'm still not 100% satisfied, & I think I can do better. I'm thinking for my next try I am going to get some .007 transparent plastic sheet material, which can be had on Amazon. This is a more rigid material, typically used in making the homemade face shields worn during the pandemic. I will then sandwich this core material between two pieces of 20LB linen finish paper that Southwork makes. Reducing the paper weight from 32LB to 20LB should compensate for the extra thickness of the core material, and the more rigid core material should provide better snap & feel. That's my theory anyway, wish me luck!
Sounds like you have some good ideas for materials to try using! I've been trying a new core material of transparency paper (which doesn't need to go through a laminator, thus cutting out two big steps to the process). I'm using 32 lb linen paper and I really like the result I'm getting. NOTE: Each sheet in a 5 mil laminating pouch is 5 mils. Meaning one side is 5 mil and the other side is 5 mil, at least in the good quality sheets I usually use. The same for 3 and 7 mil thicknesses. Using 5 mil with 32 lb linen paper should still result in an excellent card. Yes, the cards are NOT exactly like regular playing cards, but they are fairly close, compared to other methods I've used. Good luck and have fun trying new things!
@@RachelBruner you know what?.....you are absolutely right! I just checked the thickness of some 3M brand Scotch 5 mil pouches and they do measure very close to 5 MIL per side. That's my bad, I had an off brand package of what were supposed to be 5 MIL pouches but apparently they cheaped out & I forgot about the 3M ones I had until I read your reply. So thank you for the video & also jogging my memory :) I will remember to use the 3M ones I have in the future (or a quality equivalent). Cheers, Andrew.
@@RachelBruner Looks like it has been a couple years. How did your transparency paper experiment go? During this video you mention heating up the laminator material is part of what gave it the snap. Does the transparency paper provide that same feeling?
if you laminate 3mm at 5mm settings twice.. it will bind with the paper...so once you cut cards ( from already laminate infused A4 ) .... they will stay infused.. laminated
Hi Dee, this probably depends on the laminator. I have no issues with the binding of paper and laminate with just one pass through my laminator. I've heard that some people have to pass theirs through twice. It's definitely a trial and error hobby. :)
Forgive my ignorance but I can't wrap my head around how you are doing the laminate sheets (2:25-3:38) are you cutting the pouches into 2 sheets thus single sheets rather then a pouch then gluing the laminate between the fold? so when you run it through the laminator, its heating the sheet inside the card and not outside the card? wouldn't the heat effect the ink on the card face if there isn't a laminate cover on top of the card?
Hi Steve, I separate the laminate pouch into two sheets (just tear the top part of the pouch apart). I spray glue onto the back of the pre-folded page, put the single laminate sheet onto the glue, and press the folded page down. Then I cut off the excess laminate and run the page through my laminator. The laminate sheet is on the inside of the page, not the outside. :D As for ink, I use a laser printer and toner. I haven't had any issues with it. But I make sure to print on the hottest/slowest setting to make sure the toner is fused to the paper.
This is incredible, thank you for putting this together. I'm curious if you've got a recommendation for the template you're using, or any guides on how those were laid out with the printer? My son just made a card game and I'm designing it, and I don't know how to get all the cards onto the linen paper. Thanks!
Hi Shawn, I use Microsoft Publisher to layout my cards, but it's not a free software. You can search for free desktop publishing software to see if you want to try any of those. There are also a few card design programs, depending on if you use Mac or Windows. I personally haven't used any of them but I know one of them is called Nan Deck: www.nandeck.com/ There's also Inkscape which is a free vector program that I do use for my card design but not page layout. It's a really great program and there's a similar template for it like the one I use here: How to layout a card template: www.diningtablepnp.com/videos/video-tutorial-how-lay-out-card-template Card templates: www.diningtablepnp.com/article/card-layout-templates
@Rachel Bruner, first of all, your cards look amazing. Second, I expected some problems with your build. First, you laminate on the acrylic sealer; how hot is your laminator? Most of the acrylic sealers are not heatable beyond 80°C - which makes me suspect the acrylic sealer does not peel off in the machine (it operates normally between 80-120°C). Second, you use glue additional to the laminate pouch core, is it already dry before you laminate? Even if it is, it could liquefy again through the heat and would be in the machine again. Do you apply any countermeasures? Is your glue and acrylic sealer more heat resistant?
Hi Lukas, I don't know how hot my laminator gets. It doesn't have any heat settings or controls, just an on/off switch. I haven't had any problems with the acrylic sealer or spray glue. The spray glue I use is not a liquid. It sprays a mist on the paper. The paper is pre-folded so that after I spray with the glue, I fold it and seal the page. I do let the page sit to dry, but it doesn't take long. The glue dries quickly. I haven't had any issues with the spray glued page in the laminator. Thanks!
hi, thanks for the video it was very informative. I have one question, do you have a template to place the cards on the sheet? what size is your boarder? Thanks
Yes, you can definitely try using other types of paper! It's a process of trial and error and seeing what results you like using what resources you have access to. Have fun!
I'm sure you addressed this in the video, and I'm sorry for asking, but why do you use a custom mat with a clamp on the end? Instead of using the built in guide?
what type of printer do you use? most places i've read said different printers give bad results for cardstock or linen paper, but i cna't find any info on the best type of printer to use thats also affordable
Hi, i tried your technique and really like the result. The only minor problem I have noticed is that cards have a slight tendency to curve/wrap. Do you have a fix for this? Thanks!
I think this can happen depending on materials used (paper, laminate, etc). Some people run the cards back through the laminator the other way to help even out the curve. Another idea is to place a heavy book or object on top of the cards right after they come out and are hot, so that they cool flat.
good tutorial overall. the only critique is I wish you showed us a close up of the finished product so we could see in detail how the texture or finish looks
i did something similiar but with 2 sheets of 24 lb plain paper but in between have a laminated b lank sheet of paper and they feel a little "Floppy" or gummy when i bend and move them and not rigid enough..should i pass them through laminator again?
Have you ever tried the laminating step last and just feed the individual cards? I’m curious because I don’t want to invest in superior cutting equipment and I’m wondering if saving the lamination step to last would work and possibly smooth out the edges a little bit. Is Modge podge still your weapon of choice or if you found something better?
You can save the laminating step til last but only if you make sure no laminate is hanging outside of the cards since it will make a mess inside the laminator. Also, laminate is easy to cut so you do not need to have that type of cutter. You could use scissors if you wanted (if you can cut it straight enough with your hands) you can also use a handheld rotary cutter, x-acto type knife and even a decent paper trimmer (the ones where you slide a blade up and down with your hand). So anything that can cut through that materials you are using will work. Just as long as the laminate isnt sticking out from in between your cards when you run it through the machine its fine.
@@jillian6274 This question seems so stupid in hindsight and Rachel has helped me some over at Board Game Geek. I have mistakenly cut cards before putting them through the laminator by chance, but got excellent results not doing this with my very cheap corner croper and paper trimmer that came with my laminator. I was able to make my first set of cards with laminate core. I've not tried mod podge, but did just drive across town to get a can after repeated failures at Walmart. I've been using shellac as a substitute which is interesting with a laminator and requires paper to stop the shellac from burning onto the laminator. Thanks for your help. For my current unusual process I found the laminate core cards a bit easier to cut than paper core ones, but I have a primitive paper trimmer.
hi, thanks for the video is quite useful. Just one major doubt: so you only laminate the inside of the cards.. not the outside? I thought the lamination was meant for better finishing/durability. In this case, you have "raw" paper on the outside and lamination inside just as a structure.. is that it?
Yes, that's correct. I've recently been testing transparency paper (clear sheets used for old-school projectors) as a card core. This means I don't need to cut off excess lamination and I don't need to laminate them. I also use 32 lb linen paper on these new cards to make them thicker and sturdier. So far, the cards I've done with this method have turned out great.
I posted a list of all supplies used in the details on the video page. The spray I used was Mod Podge Clear Acrylic Sealer Matte. You can see it here: www.amazon.com/Mod-Podge-Acrylic-12-Ounce-1469/dp/B003VY9DNM/
Hi, sorry for the delayed reply. I put together a photo tutorial a few years ago which shows the settings I use for my printer, which you can find here: boardgamegeek.com/article/32186391#32186391
This was a great tutorial. Well thought out and explained. One question I had was: Would you consider getting a bigger (more sheets) guillotine cutter or even an electric one? So that you wouldn't have to only do one card at a time? I keep going back and forth on what I should buy. Something like what you have in the video or something that would cut more cards at once. Right now, I make quite a few card/board games for personal use, but my friends and family would like copies and urge me to try and sell the games I've created (and continue to create). Prior to these suggestions and watching your video, I've always sent out my card art for a retailer to print for me. Obviously, it isn't cheap going this route, so I got the idea of trying it myself... hence coming across your excellent video.
Watching some of her more recent videos I saw she actually purchased a thin die-cut tool (custom made) that press-cuts 4 cards at once. It drastically speeds up the process. Scroll through her recent videos on the topic and you'll see it in use and she has a video dedicated to explaining it. Really cool imo!
The pouches I've used easily separate with some force. I don't need to cut them to split them into two sheets. And nothing wrong with any question, no matter how obvious it may seem. :)
I tried to make this and the laminate did not stick as well as I thought and got pretty stiff and warped. Looks like I'll stick to glueing two thick papers
I think this might be the best technique I've seen as of yet. Thanks for the video! EDIT: Is a deck of these cards thicker than a professional one? And are they as soft as they look to me at second glance? I assume there's no way around either of these without sacrificing the other.
Hi Elsass, thank you for your kind words! Yes, a deck of cards made with this method is thicker than a professional deck. However, using thinner laminate (3ml) makes the deck slightly less thick, but only by about 5 cards. But it's closer! The cards are a little soft but not bad, they feel pretty sturdy to me. Let me know if you try it out.
Thanks for the great video! Sadly, I'm getting terrible results from the Crop-a-Dile I bought. (they're not cheap, either!). One edge of the cut corners never meets up, and leaves a 'step'. Is there are trick to using these, or do I just have a dud? Is there another brand you'd recommend for this thickness? Kadomaru Pro (Neo) is often mentioned, but I'm not sure if it can handle the thickness here.
I've heard (and experienced) the same problem with my crop-o-diles I just purchased. I have the 1/8 and 3/8 version. I just put some layers of tape on the side where the step was to give it more edge and now I'm not getting the step That said I've seen many people commenting about this problem on the 1/8" crop-o-dile. There isn't much out there that appears to work better either. So I may just live with the tape.
Yes, the lamination adds some thickness to the cards, depending on the thickness of laminate you use. 5 Mil is thinner than 7 mil by a very small amount and 3 mil is even thinner. I've only tried 3 and 5 mil and they both work great. I actually now use 3 mil for most builds.
@@saanstey I usually only print cards with a lot of color on the backs. This helps prevent seeing through the cards. If you hold them up directly to light, depending on the backs/fronts images, you can sometimes see a bit, but it's not bad. So far, I've not had any issues with this when playing with cards I've made.
This tutorial was so helpful! Do you use a special playing card template or did u make your own? So many of the templates are not in the correct layout to get this neat foldable style
Really cool idea. Did you try full sheet labels instead of using spray clue? I use labels to make cards, Spray clueI just smells really unhealthy... Do the egdes split apart when playing often with the cards? Thanks for answering, Michael
HI Machael, yes I've tried full sheet labels instead of spray glue. The cards turned out okay, they're just not quite as nice as linen paper ones, IMO, but you could use labels instead. The trick is getting the sheet of laminate on properly. I only started to remove a small part of the label backing, attach the laminate, then carefully remove the rest of the backing while smoothing out both sheets. If you regularly use label paper you're probably already aware of this. Let me know if you try my method!
Hey Rachel! Loved the video and your technique ❤. I had one query though. You sprayed something in the beginning, taping down all the prints. What did you spray and what are its benefits??
Hi Pratik, I use an acrylic sealer to make the cards more smooth and easier to slide. If I don't use the spray, the paper is too rough. With the spray, the cards are more like regular playing cards. The spray I use is Mod Podge Matte Clear Acrylic Sealer. There are other brands that others have used, but this is the one I prefer. Thanks!
If, by adhesive paper you mean label paper or sticker paper, then yes, you can use that for the outside of the cards. However, I find that the cards aren't as thick, so be sure to use a thicker core material if you use adhesive paper. However, if you mean by adhesive paper, the actual core material, such as a plastic contact paper (that sticky clear stuff that is a "cold laminate" type of stuff, then no, that will not work for a core material, it is not stiff enough at all and cannot be run through a laminator! It will just melt.
This method is great, but my one concern is running the mod podged sheet through the laminator. It doesn't leave any mod podge gunk behind in the laminator machine?
I've never had an issue with it, and I've passed TONS of pages through my laminator. However, anything could happen as there are several variables in types of equipment and supplies. Use at your own risk. Good luck!
Hi Rachel! I attempted to follow this tutorial and had a problem with my printed image transferring down the sheet as it moved through the laminator. Same Mod Podge spray (2 coats) and same linen paper. 3M Super 77 adhesive used. Used a Scotch brand laminator (5mil setting and Scotch 5mil sheet inside) and Canon laserjet printer. Any experiences with this issue? Thanks for the video!
Wow, that's no good! I haven't experienced this problem before. Might be the paper but is probably the laminator. Maybe it's too hot? I don't know. I've started using a different type of paper, which I mention in detail in an earlier comment. It's a laser gloss paper, like fancy brochure paper. Works great! Might work better for you than linen paper.
Hi Mesha, I've made a few cards for others over the years, but only if they are not copyrighted/licensed works. There are online shops that make nice custom cards you can use, such as printplaygames.com and thegamecrafter.com
Yes, you can try different types of paper. I just use trial and error to test different products to see what works best for me. You can do the same with what products you have available to you.
Edit: Mason, Thanks for the feedback. I realized I had misunderstood the laminator process at 5:00. It didn’t occur to me there was no laminate added to the outside (which is what I mistakenly assumed) and the machine was used to help set the internal laminate as you were trying to indicate. Thanks for the clarity!
Thanks Mason for clarifying things! Yes, the laminate is on the inside of the cards and running them through the laminator stiffens them up. You can definitely feel the difference before and after they go through the laminator. Before they are flimsy, after they are more stiff and have that nice "snap" when riffle shuffling. It's definitely a labor intensive process but for print and play (pnp) games that I want the cards to be high quality it's worth it to me. :)
Hi David, There are a few card design programs, depending on if you use Mac or Windows. I personally haven't used any of them but I know one of them is called Nan Deck: www.nandeck.com/ There's also Inkscape which is a free vector program that I do use for my card design but not page layout. It's a really great program and there's a similar template for it like the one I use here: How to layout a card template: www.diningtablepnp.com/videos/video-tutorial-how-lay-out-card-template Card templates: www.diningtablepnp.com/article/card-layout-templates
Great video, thanks for sharing. got one question: Why do you need to pass it through the laminator ? the sheet should be glued already, no? could we not just skip that step or is the laminating process doing something useful ?
I found the answer through reading the comments and finding a reply from you : "...Yes, the laminate is on the inside of the cards and running them through the laminator stiffens them up. You can definitely feel the difference before and after they go through the laminator. Before they are flimsy, after they are more stiff and have that nice "snap" when riffle shuffling. It's definitely a labor intensive process but for print and play (pnp) games that I want the cards to be high quality it's worth it to me. :)" You said in other comment you tried with transparent sheet (used for old projector). are they stiff enough already, any recommendation of such sheet ?
Helpful video. However the Southmore 24lb linen paper has watermarks on every page, I already have some, but it's verified by amazon reviews. Your Secret Agent cards have a lot of ink coverage, however (before I try making some cards, I've designed cards as low-ink minimal art or just typography alone) what are your thoughts about how the watermarks affect the look on other card games you've printed wihtout a lot of ink coverage. Can you see the watermark. If so, is it bothersome? I was going to try Staples Premium Multipurpose Paper, 24 lbs., 98 Bright White and the Scotch 3M Super 77 Multi-purpose adhesive spray. I don't know if those would riffle shuffle, however I never do that.
Hey Rachel :) I used your technique for Iron Helm, so quite a big build for a beginner like me. My cards started to deform/ curl after I ran them through my laminator (Amazon Basics) and I wasn‘t able to fix them afterwards (press them down with weight didn‘t work and ironing them again neither). What could I’ve done wrong here? The only thing I could think of is that I set the laminator at a too high temperature so that the spray glue got melted again and deformed the paper differently? Also my varnish melted a little on some cards, so I guess thats it?
You likely found the issue right there. If you dont give the glue adequate time to cool, and run the laminator at too high a temp, the glue inside will heat up again, bending the card when it cools. You can try heat up the card using a pot with boiling water in, placing that on top and from there add weight to the card afterwards as it cools - might work :)
One question, i'm totally ignorant about what does the laminator, but basically you pass paper on it, what's the point of doing that? does it merge with the plastic pouch?
It heats up the laminate so that it becomes stiff yet bendable, instead of limp and wimpy. This gives the cards a firmness to them that allow them to easily be shuffled. It's as close to a professional card as I've been able to get using basic tools.
Hey Rachel! :) Great channel! Thanks! Quick question if I may... Why use one paper/sticker sheet and fold it and not using a whole sheet for the front, lay the lamination sheet underneath it and use another sheet for the back? It's basically the same. no?
I would assume that this is to aid in alignment of back and front. If you trust your printer enough and do a good job with bleeds ... personally, I think I would skip the step of scoring and folding and just do backs and fronts on separate sheets like you mentioned, but I'm not sure if this the method I'm going to use in the end for making cards.
Hi, thanks for your question and sorry for the late response. You could definitely do that, but the reason I use the gutterfold method, is that I can fold along the line and then the fronts and the backs almost always perfectly line up! Trying to line up fronts and backs in most other methods is very difficult! Some people use a light box (or window) to line up fronts and backs but doing that with sticker paper would be a nightmare, imo.
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Very useful, thank You. For the step @9:50, the "stop block" to cut all the cards the same lenght, You could use the metal ruler You usually use and some neodimium magnets to keep it in place. Much more precise than the foam gig and clamp and no need to slide the guillotine to the bottom of the table.
This is clever, your method is so efficient and your explanation is nice and clear. Thank you! I’ve been searching for the last 2 hours of how to do this because I want to make tarot cards.
By far the best cardmaking tutorial I've seen. I can't wait to try this
Thanks, Ribby! Did you try my method? If you did, how did it go?
@@RachelBruner hi Rachel! Yes, I did. All my cards turned out fantastic! I made some home brewed stuff for our gaming sessions and the players at my table love them!
I found this video while making some cards for my classroom activities (teacher budget!) Thanks for providing such a useful tutorial! I don't have all these materials but still found a lot of this enlightening and adaptable for my uses.
Thanks, Ara, for your kind words! I'm glad you found some useful information from my video. :)
Now that it's been a few years, are you noticing any peeling or are cards made in this way still holding up well?
Nope, no peeling or issues whatsoever! Since there are several steps of the process with different products, it can take some trial and error to see what works for you and what doesn't. I've had wonderful success with the items and process I've used. Have fun!
@@RachelBruner since the 3 years have you made any improvements to the process?
Whenevr I'm printing cards where the front and back are on differnet sheets of paper. I use a similar method but in a different order. I'll stack two front sheets face to face in a laminate envelope and run that through. Ill cut the excess laminte and be left with two front sheets with laminate of just the back. Then i spray glue the backs directly to that and cut. Very similar, just in a different order. I also use Minwax polyurethane spray instead of the modge podge spray. I let that dry for a full day before any gluing or laminating.
I’ve done this for years too! Except I don’t use laminate or modge. I use sleeves and stock paper. If you only have regular paper, slip in a playing card. I use premium thick sleeves and voila! Easy to slip out to update your build with changes as a designer.
I will have to say your use of the laminating pouch is, for a lack of better words, STRANGE. And I really wonder where you got this Idea.
But the way you make your card gives the BEST result of any way I've seen so far!
My Hat off to you. When you carefully cut your card the result is nothing short of amazing.
Thank you for sharing your technique with us!
Thanks! The idea came when I was chatting online with a fellow print and play crafter. We were talking about different items to use in the middle of a card (the core) and I suddenly wondered what would happen if I used half a sheet of laminate between the front/back of a card and then ran it through the laminator. I was out of town at the time and soon after returning home I tested it out. It was instantly obvious that I'd discovered a very cool method for making cards that have a flexible bend to them but weren't overly thick and stiff.
I am going to definitely try this! I am trying to make my own card game and stuff and I used cardstock for the core and I could barely even bend them. This method seems to work really well. New sub
Wow this is amazing, you are a genius.
Wow! Incredible tutorial.
Thanks, Chriss, that's very kind of you!
Thanks for taking the time to describe your process in such detail. Learned a lot. I am going to try this method.
Thanks, Mark, for your kind words! If you want to share any images or comments about trying out this method I'd love to hear them.
Rachel Bruner I still have to wait weeks for the paper to arrive in the Netherlands. However I have two questions. 1) Did you use a laser or an inkjet printer to print on the linnen paper (24lbs)? 2) Which cards do you prefer more 24lbs with the core or 32lbs without core? I already had some amazing results with printing (inkjet) on double sides mat paper (180grams) which do require front/back lamination for it to fill stiff and for the cards to move smoothly over each other. Benefit it’s waterproof. It’s to glossy and smooth to look like playing cards, that’s why I can’t wait how it looks on linnen and using this method.
@@markvanwijnen I print using an HP LaserJet Pro MFP M277dw. It's no longer sold but very similar models are. It was around $300 USD at the time I bought it.
If I'm using a single sheet of laminate (I prefer 3 mil but 5 mil works too) as the core material I prefer 24 lb linen paper. However, for an easier process, I will sometimes just use 32 lb linen paper for fronts and backs without a core. These cards are VERY thin and do NOT snap like the cards with the laminate. I have some videos that show the difference.
I wanted to see a tutorial this detailed in brazil. Great work.
I found I put a book or Few DVD cases on both sides of the laminater so they go in flat and come out flat, the Plastic is Hot and can Stretch and Bend, and once cooled will keep that bend in the laminate.
Thanks for the tutorial!! Maybe I missed it, but is there a template for placing your photos and images for the cards before printing?
see: ruclips.net/video/n_8q4V3TAzc/видео.html
Your process is basically the one I use except--like a commentator above--I don't do double-sided printing due to the shifting in printing the 2nd side.
I've been looking for these glue sheets that I used to use for mounting photos back in the day.
I'd use an iron--or a hot press (heck, even a panini-press might work)--to press down for about thirty seconds max and melt the glue sheet in between the two pieces thus bind the items together.
Barring that, I'd use a spray glue like scotch 77 between my two pieces of paper and use a "bone knife" or a burnisher to smooth them out when I press them together.
In place of a "bone knife" or a burnisher, a rolling pin or even a butter-knife wrapped in a towel would probably work.
I don't do the spray-glue as much anymore though due to my having destroyed carpet with my apparent rambunctious over-sprays and for fumes inside.
I just haven't been able to source the glue sheets I'm thinking of, but you could cut whatever shape you needed and then press the iron (or hot pressser) down to melt the glue sheet and glue the items.
Then i use laminate sheets as you do.
Great video, and thanks for sharing this. :)
Thank you for the great video! This looks so nice! I bought the supplies today to try it out!
TYSM for the video I was searching for a specific paper the video is so much helpful
Can you use both pieces of the laminate pouch for this after you separate it?
Hi Ed, thanks for your question. Yes, you can use both pieces of the laminate pouch as a core material when making cards. Each sheet of the separated laminate pouch can be used for two pages, so with one pouch I can do 4 sheets of cards.
Hey! I'm Brazilian, so I apologize for the translated English.
I'm redoing the entire look of WAR Vikings, cards, pawns, board and some additions that will make it more stylish.
Your card making tutorial was the best and most complete I found on the internet without a doubt and it made me very determined to continue making something that looks really cool!
I only have one problem, here in Brazil I couldn't find the type of paper you used in your video, and the import tax is VERY high. Do you recommend any other types of paper? Here I can find linen sheets, but cotton only for paintings, which have a very heavy weight.
absolutely love the craftsmanship, reminds me of my time in design college having to prototype everything by hand.
unfortunately, looking at the cost of all these materials and equipment, I feel I'm better off buying cheap chinese traditional playing card decks and just printing in a vinyl sticker sheet.
Thanks! And yes, there's nothing wrong with keeping things simple and inexpensive. I do that too for certain builds.
I have been looking for a good method to do this thanks for sharing!
Hi! Fantastic video, id like to followe this steps to create a gift for my friend! But i dont understand what's the first spray you're using, it doesn't seem like the one you use later in the video
I'm sorry if you said it in the video, but english isn't my first language, so i could have missed it
mind telling me what printer you used?
Great tutorial! I am curious though, how do you handle when the files are not in the correct orientation? Do you have a method for changing the files?
Yes, I use programs to adjust things. I use Paint Shop Pro for image manipulation and I use Microsoft Publisher for the layout and printing.
Hi Rachel. I'm trying the mod pod mate spray this weekend. I'll be using label paper and transparency sheets. Good Demo. :)
I am also thinking of label paper and lamination sheets. Have you tried it already? Any experience?
Hey Leon! I haven't used label paper for the cards but you probably could! I use label paper all the time for tokens, tiles, player mats, etc. Maybe I'll try it on a smaller game build. I have one that I was thinking of doing and it would be a good test to try. It would cut out the spray glue step of course, which might be really nice. I know others use label paper for cards all the time but not sure if any of them have tried it with my laminate core method.
Nice job, I'll have to try this technique
Great tutorial for a genius idea, Rachel.
I do wonder though, since there is only adhesive on one side of that laminate core, have you noticed any splitting on your cards after extensive play?
Thank you so much for the video.
Thanks, Joe! I spray adhesive glue to the FULL sheet of cards when attaching the laminate. So although the laminate itself only has adhesive on one side, I've sprayed the cards which puts glue on both sides. No, I have not had ANY problems with splitting of my cards. The spray glue I use works great, I put it on thick. And then running them through the laminator firmly attaches the laminate's adhesive as well, but even without that my other methods of just spray glue have all worked great as long as the sides being glued together are smooth.
This was really great. I like that you used linen paper. I have seen so many videos that used regular paper and glued over card stock or just printed on card stock. They run it in the laminated pouch, and honestly, it looks TACKY! Your deck looks professional. What a great idea to lay the laminate sheet in between the card, so it still has that flexibility. So you sprayed the deck of cards with an acrylic spray I'm assuming to make them somewhat water-resistant? Having the paper go through the laminator doesn't destroy the paper? Is that why you used the acrylic spray? Do I need to be careful about what kind of printer ink I am using? I have a canon pro-100.
I am teaching my first year, and my advance graphic students just finished a deck of cards that we are going to print. I am so excited to demo this with them!
Hi Carey, thank you for your comment and questions! I apologize for the delayed reply, I was very sick for a few weeks, then my kids were sick, holidays, family, etc.
I spray the cards with acrylic to seal in the toner from printing. Toner from a laser jet can flake off with use, especially with the huge amount of bending the cards receive when shuffling them frequently. I don't think it makes them water resistant but it probably helps protect them a little bit. I haven't tested them with water. No, running the paper through my laminator has not destroyed the paper or damaged it in any way that I am aware of. They seem to go through just fine. I haven't laminated them without spraying them first, so I don't know if that would make a difference.
I also don't know if using an inkjet would make a difference. There are a lot of things I haven't tested but if you try something else I would love to hear about your results!
Wow! This looks so good. Great job!
Thanks Joey! They do take a lot of work but are worth it, imo.
hi & thank you for a really great tutorial. I tried this method & was a little disappointed in the result. (Most likely because my skill level is way below yours) :) Anyway, I found I was able to riffle shuffle the cards nicely but they are too soft & bendy, ie lacking the memory & that snappy spring that factory made cards typically exhibit. I did change a couple of things, I didn't have the 24LB Southwork linen finish paper you used & substituted 32LB Southwork linen finish paper, which is what I had on hand. Obviously this made the cards a hair thicker than the ones you made for this video. I also used a different glue (Aleene's tacky spray vs the 3M Super 77 you used). Again, it is what I had on hand. I followed up w/a 2nd attempt, this time using an adhesive backed clear inkjet printing paper as the core, in place of the 5 mil laminating pouches you used. The clear paper was actually 5 mils thick (vs the 2.5 mils when splitting a laminating pouch into two halves). Using this method, I only needed to run them thru my laminator using the cold setting, since there was already the adhesive backing & the spray glue. This gave the cards better memory than the first set, yet I'm still not 100% satisfied, & I think I can do better. I'm thinking for my next try I am going to get some .007 transparent plastic sheet material, which can be had on Amazon. This is a more rigid material, typically used in making the homemade face shields worn during the pandemic. I will then sandwich this core material between two pieces of 20LB linen finish paper that Southwork makes. Reducing the paper weight from 32LB to 20LB should compensate for the extra thickness of the core material, and the more rigid core material should provide better snap & feel. That's my theory anyway, wish me luck!
Sounds like you have some good ideas for materials to try using! I've been trying a new core material of transparency paper (which doesn't need to go through a laminator, thus cutting out two big steps to the process). I'm using 32 lb linen paper and I really like the result I'm getting.
NOTE: Each sheet in a 5 mil laminating pouch is 5 mils. Meaning one side is 5 mil and the other side is 5 mil, at least in the good quality sheets I usually use. The same for 3 and 7 mil thicknesses. Using 5 mil with 32 lb linen paper should still result in an excellent card. Yes, the cards are NOT exactly like regular playing cards, but they are fairly close, compared to other methods I've used.
Good luck and have fun trying new things!
@@RachelBruner you know what?.....you are absolutely right! I just checked the thickness of some 3M brand Scotch 5 mil pouches and they do measure very close to 5 MIL per side. That's my bad, I had an off brand package of what were supposed to be 5 MIL pouches but apparently they cheaped out & I forgot about the 3M ones I had until I read your reply. So thank you for the video & also jogging my memory :) I will remember to use the 3M ones I have in the future (or a quality equivalent). Cheers, Andrew.
@@RachelBruner Looks like it has been a couple years. How did your transparency paper experiment go? During this video you mention heating up the laminator material is part of what gave it the snap. Does the transparency paper provide that same feeling?
if you laminate 3mm at 5mm settings twice.. it will bind with the paper...so once you cut cards ( from already laminate infused A4 ) .... they will stay infused.. laminated
Hi Dee, this probably depends on the laminator. I have no issues with the binding of paper and laminate with just one pass through my laminator. I've heard that some people have to pass theirs through twice. It's definitely a trial and error hobby. :)
Question, if you’re already glueing the laminating pouches to the paper, what’s the point of putting it through the laminator?
Thank you for this! Where can i find the templates for printing?
Forgive my ignorance but I can't wrap my head around how you are doing the laminate sheets (2:25-3:38) are you cutting the pouches into 2 sheets thus single sheets rather then a pouch then gluing the laminate between the fold? so when you run it through the laminator, its heating the sheet inside the card and not outside the card? wouldn't the heat effect the ink on the card face if there isn't a laminate cover on top of the card?
Hi Steve, I separate the laminate pouch into two sheets (just tear the top part of the pouch apart). I spray glue onto the back of the pre-folded page, put the single laminate sheet onto the glue, and press the folded page down. Then I cut off the excess laminate and run the page through my laminator. The laminate sheet is on the inside of the page, not the outside. :D
As for ink, I use a laser printer and toner. I haven't had any issues with it. But I make sure to print on the hottest/slowest setting to make sure the toner is fused to the paper.
What product was used at the beginning, to topcoat the prints?
This is incredible, thank you for putting this together. I'm curious if you've got a recommendation for the template you're using, or any guides on how those were laid out with the printer? My son just made a card game and I'm designing it, and I don't know how to get all the cards onto the linen paper. Thanks!
Hi Shawn, I use Microsoft Publisher to layout my cards, but it's not a free software. You can search for free desktop publishing software to see if you want to try any of those. There are also a few card design programs, depending on if you use Mac or Windows. I personally haven't used any of them but I know one of them is called Nan Deck: www.nandeck.com/
There's also Inkscape which is a free vector program that I do use for my card design but not page layout. It's a really great program and there's a similar template for it like the one I use here:
How to layout a card template:
www.diningtablepnp.com/videos/video-tutorial-how-lay-out-card-template
Card templates:
www.diningtablepnp.com/article/card-layout-templates
you are an inspiration, thank you for sharing!
Thank you! :)
@Rachel Bruner, first of all, your cards look amazing. Second, I expected some problems with your build. First, you laminate on the acrylic sealer; how hot is your laminator? Most of the acrylic sealers are not heatable beyond 80°C - which makes me suspect the acrylic sealer does not peel off in the machine (it operates normally between 80-120°C). Second, you use glue additional to the laminate pouch core, is it already dry before you laminate? Even if it is, it could liquefy again through the heat and would be in the machine again. Do you apply any countermeasures? Is your glue and acrylic sealer more heat resistant?
Hi Lukas, I don't know how hot my laminator gets. It doesn't have any heat settings or controls, just an on/off switch. I haven't had any problems with the acrylic sealer or spray glue. The spray glue I use is not a liquid. It sprays a mist on the paper. The paper is pre-folded so that after I spray with the glue, I fold it and seal the page. I do let the page sit to dry, but it doesn't take long. The glue dries quickly. I haven't had any issues with the spray glued page in the laminator. Thanks!
great video! thanks!
Thank you for this great tutorial.
Thank you, Suman! :)
can spray be replaced with some other glue?
Hi, I haven't tired other types of glue but you can definitely try something else and see if it works for you. Thanks!
Amazing video!
I have the same Crop-a diles but I can't get good round edges like yours. Could you make a tutorial on how to use them?
Thank youu
hi, thanks for the video it was very informative. I have one question, do you have a template to place the cards on the sheet? what size is your boarder? Thanks
Hi, great tutorial! One question: Can I use ordinary plain paper (80g) insted of linen paper?
Thanks
Yes, you can definitely try using other types of paper! It's a process of trial and error and seeing what results you like using what resources you have access to. Have fun!
I'm sure you addressed this in the video, and I'm sorry for asking, but why do you use a custom mat with a clamp on the end? Instead of using the built in guide?
Do you have a template I can use in order to make the card sheets?
what type of printer do you use? most places i've read said different printers give bad results for cardstock or linen paper, but i cna't find any info on the best type of printer to use thats also affordable
Hi, i tried your technique and really like the result. The only minor problem I have noticed is that cards have a slight tendency to curve/wrap. Do you have a fix for this? Thanks!
I think this can happen depending on materials used (paper, laminate, etc). Some people run the cards back through the laminator the other way to help even out the curve. Another idea is to place a heavy book or object on top of the cards right after they come out and are hot, so that they cool flat.
good tutorial overall. the only critique is I wish you showed us a close up of the finished product so we could see in detail how the texture or finish looks
What cutter is this? I have had a lot of trouble finding one that holds the paper well.
where to buy this bottle of spray paint?
Does it matter what paper you initially print your cards on?
i did something similiar but with 2 sheets of 24 lb plain paper but in between have a laminated b lank sheet of paper and they feel a little "Floppy" or gummy when i bend and move them and not rigid enough..should i pass them through laminator again?
Have you ever tried the laminating step last and just feed the individual cards? I’m curious because I don’t want to invest in superior cutting equipment and I’m wondering if saving the lamination step to last would work and possibly smooth out the edges a little bit. Is Modge podge still your weapon of choice or if you found something better?
You can save the laminating step til last but only if you make sure no laminate is hanging outside of the cards since it will make a mess inside the laminator. Also, laminate is easy to cut so you do not need to have that type of cutter. You could use scissors if you wanted (if you can cut it straight enough with your hands) you can also use a handheld rotary cutter, x-acto type knife and even a decent paper trimmer (the ones where you slide a blade up and down with your hand). So anything that can cut through that materials you are using will work. Just as long as the laminate isnt sticking out from in between your cards when you run it through the machine its fine.
@@jillian6274 This question seems so stupid in hindsight and Rachel has helped me some over at Board Game Geek. I have mistakenly cut cards before putting them through the laminator by chance, but got excellent results not doing this with my very cheap corner croper and paper trimmer that came with my laminator. I was able to make my first set of cards with laminate core. I've not tried mod podge, but did just drive across town to get a can after repeated failures at Walmart. I've been using shellac as a substitute which is interesting with a laminator and requires paper to stop the shellac from burning onto the laminator. Thanks for your help. For my current unusual process I found the laminate core cards a bit easier to cut than paper core ones, but I have a primitive paper trimmer.
What would you say are the total costs to make one deck of cards (54 qty) using the paper and supplies you have used?
Fantastic!
hi, thanks for the video is quite useful. Just one major doubt: so you only laminate the inside of the cards.. not the outside? I thought the lamination was meant for better finishing/durability. In this case, you have "raw" paper on the outside and lamination inside just as a structure.. is that it?
Yes, that's correct. I've recently been testing transparency paper (clear sheets used for old-school projectors) as a card core. This means I don't need to cut off excess lamination and I don't need to laminate them. I also use 32 lb linen paper on these new cards to make them thicker and sturdier. So far, the cards I've done with this method have turned out great.
im having a problem where my lamenator is bleeding the ink over. so should i wait longer for the matte seal to dry? or use more?
Great idea! Wow! Txks
Thank you for doing a tutorial.what was in the spraycan at the beginning.couldn t understand that.
I posted a list of all supplies used in the details on the video page. The spray I used was Mod Podge Clear Acrylic Sealer Matte. You can see it here:
www.amazon.com/Mod-Podge-Acrylic-12-Ounce-1469/dp/B003VY9DNM/
What is the setting in your printer
Or do a tutorial how to print it
Hi, sorry for the delayed reply. I put together a photo tutorial a few years ago which shows the settings I use for my printer, which you can find here:
boardgamegeek.com/article/32186391#32186391
This was a great tutorial. Well thought out and explained.
One question I had was: Would you consider getting a bigger (more sheets) guillotine cutter or even an electric one? So that you wouldn't have to only do one card at a time? I keep going back and forth on what I should buy. Something like what you have in the video or something that would cut more cards at once. Right now, I make quite a few card/board games for personal use, but my friends and family would like copies and urge me to try and sell the games I've created (and continue to create). Prior to these suggestions and watching your video, I've always sent out my card art for a retailer to print for me. Obviously, it isn't cheap going this route, so I got the idea of trying it myself... hence coming across your excellent video.
Watching some of her more recent videos I saw she actually purchased a thin die-cut tool (custom made) that press-cuts 4 cards at once. It drastically speeds up the process. Scroll through her recent videos on the topic and you'll see it in use and she has a video dedicated to explaining it. Really cool imo!
This is probably an obvious question, but do you cut the lamination pouches into two separate laminate pages?
The pouches I've used easily separate with some force. I don't need to cut them to split them into two sheets. And nothing wrong with any question, no matter how obvious it may seem. :)
Do you have a template you would be willing to share for the printing? So the card line up etc?
This is awesome! Thanks for sharing :)
I tried to make this and the laminate did not stick as well as I thought and got pretty stiff and warped. Looks like I'll stick to glueing two thick papers
I think this might be the best technique I've seen as of yet. Thanks for the video!
EDIT: Is a deck of these cards thicker than a professional one? And are they as soft as they look to me at second glance? I assume there's no way around either of these without sacrificing the other.
Hi Elsass, thank you for your kind words! Yes, a deck of cards made with this method is thicker than a professional deck. However, using thinner laminate (3ml) makes the deck slightly less thick, but only by about 5 cards. But it's closer! The cards are a little soft but not bad, they feel pretty sturdy to me. Let me know if you try it out.
I found running the cards through the laminator AFTER applying a laquar/varnish dulls the cards and makes them warp slightly 😔
Any suggestions?
Thanks for the great video! Sadly, I'm getting terrible results from the Crop-a-Dile I bought. (they're not cheap, either!). One edge of the cut corners never meets up, and leaves a 'step'. Is there are trick to using these, or do I just have a dud? Is there another brand you'd recommend for this thickness? Kadomaru Pro (Neo) is often mentioned, but I'm not sure if it can handle the thickness here.
I've heard (and experienced) the same problem with my crop-o-diles I just purchased. I have the 1/8 and 3/8 version. I just put some layers of tape on the side where the step was to give it more edge and now I'm not getting the step
That said I've seen many people commenting about this problem on the 1/8" crop-o-dile. There isn't much out there that appears to work better either. So I may just live with the tape.
How many cards did you make? Did the lamination make the cards thick?
Yes, the lamination adds some thickness to the cards, depending on the thickness of laminate you use. 5 Mil is thinner than 7 mil by a very small amount and 3 mil is even thinner. I've only tried 3 and 5 mil and they both work great. I actually now use 3 mil for most builds.
@@RachelBruner Do you find that the cards are translucent with a transparent rather than black core?
@@saanstey I usually only print cards with a lot of color on the backs. This helps prevent seeing through the cards. If you hold them up directly to light, depending on the backs/fronts images, you can sometimes see a bit, but it's not bad. So far, I've not had any issues with this when playing with cards I've made.
This tutorial was so helpful! Do you use a special playing card template or did u make your own? So many of the templates are not in the correct layout to get this neat foldable style
Really cool idea. Did you try full sheet labels instead of using spray clue? I use labels to make cards, Spray clueI just smells really unhealthy... Do the egdes split apart when playing often with the cards? Thanks for answering, Michael
HI Machael, yes I've tried full sheet labels instead of spray glue. The cards turned out okay, they're just not quite as nice as linen paper ones, IMO, but you could use labels instead. The trick is getting the sheet of laminate on properly. I only started to remove a small part of the label backing, attach the laminate, then carefully remove the rest of the backing while smoothing out both sheets. If you regularly use label paper you're probably already aware of this. Let me know if you try my method!
Hey Rachel! Loved the video and your technique ❤. I had one query though. You sprayed something in the beginning, taping down all the prints. What did you spray and what are its benefits??
Hi Pratik, I use an acrylic sealer to make the cards more smooth and easier to slide. If I don't use the spray, the paper is too rough. With the spray, the cards are more like regular playing cards. The spray I use is Mod Podge Matte Clear Acrylic Sealer. There are other brands that others have used, but this is the one I prefer. Thanks!
@@RachelBruner Oh thank you so much for replying ❤️
My croc a dile does not cut the laminate at all.... I always have to peel it off
Is the blade still sharp on your dile? If not try cutting a couple layers of aluminum foil a few times and see if that sharpens the blades any.
What printer do you use? Why playing card ink don't ooze out?
I print with an HP color laser printer. the Pro M255dw
hi rachel, do you think it would also be good to use adhesive paper? no spray glue
If, by adhesive paper you mean label paper or sticker paper, then yes, you can use that for the outside of the cards. However, I find that the cards aren't as thick, so be sure to use a thicker core material if you use adhesive paper. However, if you mean by adhesive paper, the actual core material, such as a plastic contact paper (that sticky clear stuff that is a "cold laminate" type of stuff, then no, that will not work for a core material, it is not stiff enough at all and cannot be run through a laminator! It will just melt.
This method is great, but my one concern is running the mod podged sheet through the laminator. It doesn't leave any mod podge gunk behind in the laminator machine?
I've never had an issue with it, and I've passed TONS of pages through my laminator. However, anything could happen as there are several variables in types of equipment and supplies. Use at your own risk. Good luck!
So I’m assuming you use laser opposed to inkjet?
Yes, I use a laser printer.
Hi Rachel! I attempted to follow this tutorial and had a problem with my printed image transferring down the sheet as it moved through the laminator. Same Mod Podge spray (2 coats) and same linen paper. 3M Super 77 adhesive used. Used a Scotch brand laminator (5mil setting and Scotch 5mil sheet inside) and Canon laserjet printer. Any experiences with this issue? Thanks for the video!
Wow, that's no good! I haven't experienced this problem before. Might be the paper but is probably the laminator. Maybe it's too hot? I don't know.
I've started using a different type of paper, which I mention in detail in an earlier comment. It's a laser gloss paper, like fancy brochure paper. Works great! Might work better for you than linen paper.
Hey are you able to make cards for a client?
Hi Mesha, I've made a few cards for others over the years, but only if they are not copyrighted/licensed works. There are online shops that make nice custom cards you can use, such as printplaygames.com and thegamecrafter.com
Can we use a different kind of paper with the same technique? Because linen paper is almost impossible to get in my county. Thank you
Yes, you can try different types of paper. I just use trial and error to test different products to see what works best for me. You can do the same with what products you have available to you.
thank you , i will try just that
Hello New to this great video whats the msg for the paper?
What program do you use to align all your cards? Publisher?
How do you print out multiple picturs on one paper with all the same backs and with the guide lines on PC?
Thanks for the helpful video! What purpose does the mod podge spray serve if these are being laminated?
tnphillips08 the laminate was in between the cards to make them thicker, not on the outside
Edit: Mason, Thanks for the feedback. I realized I had misunderstood the laminator process at 5:00. It didn’t occur to me there was no laminate added to the outside (which is what I mistakenly assumed) and the machine was used to help set the internal laminate as you were trying to indicate. Thanks for the clarity!
Thanks Mason for clarifying things! Yes, the laminate is on the inside of the cards and running them through the laminator stiffens them up. You can definitely feel the difference before and after they go through the laminator. Before they are flimsy, after they are more stiff and have that nice "snap" when riffle shuffling. It's definitely a labor intensive process but for print and play (pnp) games that I want the cards to be high quality it's worth it to me. :)
What make of printer do you use?
Thank you for this!!!!
You're very welcome, glad it could help!
Interesting. I've been making some attempts using card stock for a core to less than satisfactory results. I may have to try your laminate method.
Go for it! Let me know if you do, and how it works for you.
Hello if i dont have Micro Publisher what other program can i use to use the Template you use and print ?
Hi David, There are a few card design programs, depending on if you use Mac or Windows. I personally haven't used any of them but I know one of them is called Nan Deck: www.nandeck.com/
There's also Inkscape which is a free vector program that I do use for my card design but not page layout. It's a really great program and there's a similar template for it like the one I use here:
How to layout a card template:
www.diningtablepnp.com/videos/video-tutorial-how-lay-out-card-template
Card templates:
www.diningtablepnp.com/article/card-layout-templates
Great video, thanks for sharing. got one question:
Why do you need to pass it through the laminator ? the sheet should be glued already, no?
could we not just skip that step or is the laminating process doing something useful ?
I found the answer through reading the comments and finding a reply from you :
"...Yes, the laminate is on the inside of the cards and running them through the laminator stiffens them up. You can definitely feel the difference before and after they go through the laminator. Before they are flimsy, after they are more stiff and have that nice "snap" when riffle shuffling. It's definitely a labor intensive process but for print and play (pnp) games that I want the cards to be high quality it's worth it to me. :)"
You said in other comment you tried with transparent sheet (used for old projector). are they stiff enough already, any recommendation of such sheet ?
Thank you for citing what you found.
Helpful video. However the Southmore 24lb linen paper has watermarks on every page, I already have some, but it's verified by amazon reviews. Your Secret Agent cards have a lot of ink coverage, however (before I try making some cards, I've designed cards as low-ink minimal art or just typography alone) what are your thoughts about how the watermarks affect the look on other card games you've printed wihtout a lot of ink coverage. Can you see the watermark. If so, is it bothersome?
I was going to try Staples Premium Multipurpose Paper, 24 lbs., 98 Bright White and the Scotch 3M Super 77 Multi-purpose adhesive spray. I don't know if those would riffle shuffle, however I never do that.
Hey Rachel :)
I used your technique for Iron Helm, so quite a big build for a beginner like me.
My cards started to deform/ curl after I ran them through my laminator (Amazon Basics) and I wasn‘t able to fix them afterwards (press them down with weight didn‘t work and ironing them again neither).
What could I’ve done wrong here? The only thing I could think of is that I set the laminator at a too high temperature so that the spray glue got melted again and deformed the paper differently? Also my varnish melted a little on some cards, so I guess thats it?
You likely found the issue right there. If you dont give the glue adequate time to cool, and run the laminator at too high a temp, the glue inside will heat up again, bending the card when it cools. You can try heat up the card using a pot with boiling water in, placing that on top and from there add weight to the card afterwards as it cools - might work :)
which spray did you use at the beginning of the video about the cards?
What is the laminator for?
One question, i'm totally ignorant about what does the laminator, but basically you pass paper on it, what's the point of doing that? does it merge with the plastic pouch?
Yes
It heats up the laminate so that it becomes stiff yet bendable, instead of limp and wimpy. This gives the cards a firmness to them that allow them to easily be shuffled. It's as close to a professional card as I've been able to get using basic tools.
How do you get the card template with the guided lines?
Hey Rachel! :) Great channel! Thanks!
Quick question if I may... Why use one paper/sticker sheet and fold it and not using a whole sheet for the front, lay the lamination sheet underneath it and use another sheet for the back? It's basically the same. no?
I would assume that this is to aid in alignment of back and front. If you trust your printer enough and do a good job with bleeds ... personally, I think I would skip the step of scoring and folding and just do backs and fronts on separate sheets like you mentioned, but I'm not sure if this the method I'm going to use in the end for making cards.
Hi, thanks for your question and sorry for the late response. You could definitely do that, but the reason I use the gutterfold method, is that I can fold along the line and then the fronts and the backs almost always perfectly line up! Trying to line up fronts and backs in most other methods is very difficult! Some people use a light box (or window) to line up fronts and backs but doing that with sticker paper would be a nightmare, imo.
Great job, what type of paper do You use to get that texture like eurogames?
Her other video describes it as linen paper
Its in the description with the Amazon stuff