HOW TO - Electrical System Design for 3 AMPLIFIER + DSP Car Audio System!
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- Опубликовано: 2 окт 2024
- Is our alternator big enough? What size wire do we need to install our amplifiers? How do we connect everything and what wire distribution blocks are needed for the positive and ground wire connections? What fuses do we need? I'm currently working on installing a car audio system with 3 amplifiers, a DSP, 6 speakers, 4 subwoofers and more! How does it all get wired, and what wire gauge size is needed? Let's make a plan!
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I've had every speaker size in my vehicle back in the day, except an 18. But now im a disabled Army Vet with 2 teenage daughters, I can't afford to buy a good stereo anymore. But my dream is to one day FINALLY have 1 18" sub with a good amp and show my girls how I used to roll. But I guess thats why they call it a dream. But keep making these great videos. Love the way you breakdown the more technical parts of car audio. Be safe and blessed brother. And have a great Memorial weekend.
Dream setup ? For a 3rd gen Jimny used offroad : Alpine Halo head unit, 2*3-way component system in front (6.5"+4"+tweeter) with custom door pod, 2*4" coaxial in back, 12 inch sub in a ported box, preferably all speakers with some water resistant rating just in case. Everything powered by MVi amps from JL Audio and linked to an onboard PC you can access from the head unit (HDMI input) for configuration. Add a secondary source accessible from outside the car and some quick disconnect watersport 2*8" pod speakers (powered by the same MVi amps) for when you're chilling with the bois and don't want to unleash the 2000W+ beast with no alternator running. And of course a bigger alternator cause the stock one won't do
That second fuse box is great for future additions like camera and radars .
As I get older I'm finding myself wanting more crisp clear quality sounds 👌...but I still like to crank it up too...
I'm with you 100 percent on that 😎
Man I'm 43 and still a basshead. I'm so stuck lately because my midbsss is lacking (Infinity 6.5 comp set x 2). I'd LOVE to have like 4 8"s, 2 10"s, and then my 2 18"s on a switch in my console so I could turn the 18s off when I want to listen to something that SHOULD be listened to in a sealed box, hence the 8s and 10s.
I like it clear but I crank it because I’m old and deaf. Lol.
Mannnn fr im 26 and got rid of my subs and just started redoing my system with mods and highs my god 😊
So for my Dream System:
Source: I'm not super picky here. As long as it's a quality MFG and fits well in the vehicle then I'm mainly concerned with features. Android Auto is a Must. But then so is a CD/DVD Player. Most streaming music is lower quality than CDs. Trying to get max system quality while using low grade streamed music is pointless. No amount of acoustical treatment and DSP will ever increase the quality of the source signal. Yes there's services like Tidal, and they are getting better. But I still like OWNING my music. If I purchase albums and/or videos (Inc movies) from a streaming service and that company goes out of business later on then I no longer "own" that material. And YES I'm old, but I'm also not wrong 😛. LOL
SPEAKERS: Subs: JL Audio, Only and Always. Either 10/12 W6(s) or 13.5TW5 if tight spacing is an issue. The W7s are amazing, but their also designed more for SPL (but with strong SQL remaining) while the W6 is more max SQL and achieving the most SPL within that standard.
Mids/Highs: The best I've ever owned go way way back, the a/d/s 325is which were legendary SQL in their time. I still own my set. And while I look forward to hearing them again I doubt they still sound as good having been boxed and unused for years. I haven't listened to them yet but looking around I think the Morel's are the type of sound I look for given their construction and materiel choices. Today I would go with a 3-way system up front with powerful 6.5s in the doors and the 3.5s & 1in Tweeters (no smaller) ideally in A-pillar pods. Each individually processed and amplified with its own channel. Then I would have a pair of either 6.5 or 6x9 co-axials in the back. Again, ideally on the back panel firing into the back window rather than low in the doors. These would be Bandpassed roughly from 300 to roughly 2.5 kHz. That would be based on listening, I only want it functioning as backfill simulating the reverberance of a larger listening space while not interfering with the sound stage of the front.
Processor: I've looked at specs and read reviews of a bunch of DSPs lately. I'd start naming a bunch but I'm taking a bit too long on this. So I'll just say given the budget I'd go with the Helix systems.
Amps: Probably JL Audio but I'd be open to other possibilities. The idea of going A/B for the Front/Rears and D on the Sub's is honestly appealing to me though. So I could be swayed elsewhere so long as the quality was top notch.
5 sets of jl c7s vx400s 4 vx1000/1 on 4 13w7s in a blow thru superduty crew cab 8 foot bed 🤘🏽
1set of c7s is 2k
I'm currently building my dream system. All JL Audio because I fell in love with the VXi series off amps the moment I saw them. Im going to be running an active three way with the C7 and the C3 components for the rear doors running off the VX800/8i and then two W7 12s running off a VX1000/1i each in a custom built box. Going to have the Sony XAV9500ES as a head unit. All going into my 06 Ram 2500 diesel. Going to be a good spring project.
Video was very helpful. Looking forward to watching more
My dream system. Here goes... Kenwood head unit, Arc audio blackbird amp, Mosconi Pro 4/30 amp, MOREL MAXIMO ULTRA 603 MKII 6.5" 3-WAY COMPONENT SPEAKERS , Helix mini dsp, Bobby Gately Box w/ 3 JL W7s
You are basically building my dream system in your F150. I have a 2020 Ram 1500 and all the same speakers are on my crutchfield wish list. I love the JL C6’s. Though I am looking at the vehicle specific JL under seat dual 10 preloaded box. Since I don’t the experience or know how or tools to build my own custom box at this point. Prices are just a bit out of control pushing it out of my budget. Crutchfield also states to keep my factory head unit and offers no replacement options.
I’m 6th ordering 3 12s in a extended cab ranger rn didn’t know anything about abt subs really 6months ago but here I am😅
Great video, would like to hear your thoughts on ways to tackle rear fill through a DSP. From my research there’s definitely some different schools of thought on this!
My dream audio setup. A custom head unit I am designing with 6 channel output -> DSP with at least 8 channel output, but 11/12 preferred -> 3 way fronts, 2 way rears, dual subs. Going for a sound quality build for long road trips so this would also involve sound proofing the entire car. I have most of this setup already, just need to get the DSP and finish my head unit.
Really appreciate the video, and thanks for revisiting / updating this kind of content. Been watching you on and off for years and it really helps!
Please put a video together or document the head unit build. Id love to see your ideas
Yes man, make a video and post it!😄We are interested!
I also agree with the other two comments here so far. Sounds like you’re on your way to RUclips fame bud
agreed as well , would love to see how it comes out?
I went with an android tablet "head unit" with USB-C connection to a Behringer DAC with TOSLINK connection to DSP. Straight through digital signal to the DSP. The sound quality is very impressive. I did this 5 years ago now so I would say better options exist but eliminating analog to digital conversions along the chain seem to be more easily achievable these days.
Great stuff! I like the sound of a great song, I like the bass as much I like the tweeter, hip hop to banda.
dream system?
so many choices. morel/audison/blam/dynaudio comps, audiofrog/genesis/audio control amps - there's just so much solid equipment these days.
r/n i have Morel 3 ways, ct sounds mid for rear fill (budget) and alpine power logic 5-ch amp running a JL TW3
system above isn't my daily and everything was about $2K total including sound deadener etc, but if i were to get a newer ride i'd go big. i'm talking like $6-7K budget..
Hey Mark, really enjoy your channel! Great info, great explaining. Keep it up.
I've used this video to plan my new 3 amp + dsp build :)
Great channel and good work!
You asked about our no holes barred build?
Here's mine:
I own a 2008 Ram 3500 Quad Cab Dually with some existing JL component speakers.
1 pair 4" Z series components in the dash.
3 JL tweets across the dash also, one as a "center" channel.
1 pair of 6.5 components in the front doors.
1 pair of 5.25's in the rear doors.
All powered by a HD400.4 amp that's toasted.
For bass, I was running a single JL 13v3 4ohm in a fiberglass and wood tube I made.
1 JL HD600.1 powered that sub and it too toasted.
My factory alternator over volted and I believe that was the cause of the amplifier failure.
I've since upgraded my amp to a 420A unit.
Anyways,
I want to upgrade all my component speakers and amps to the highest JL lines.
I want to make a fiberglass rear seat back wall with the older 13TW5 subs. I may be able to use 3-5 on that wall.
I had built a fiberglass spare tire well box for a 2014 Mazda 2 with the 13TW5 about 10 years ago and I really enjoyed it in that car.
I so needed this. Ty again 😃. I've watched about everyone. Always look forward to the next class. 2015 beetle. Have to have one made for my car. 140amp alternator. Low option car. I had to get a second battery. Now I'm good. About 2300 watts. I would love to have my car sound as fine as an old Big Block rumbling. I like SQ over SPL, but I do like it loud. But clean, crisp and tight. So I think that is called SQL? Nice and clean install that is more for practical daily driver than show. Hideaway as much as possible. Sound stage that's better than live. Not concerned about system wattage being 40k watts or 100 watts. I just want my ears say its heavenly. But if my Guy, you, doesn't do it. I'll have to think about it.
Dream system with no restrictions and no budget....That's easy.......... Have you pick everything and install it in my car for me.....:)
Very informative I’m leaning toward a dsp but still getting information I only have a 4 channel and 2 channel and epicenter now but still gathering information on digital sound processor.Maryland showing a little ❤️
Hi Jerome again am using JL audio Subwoofers 8W7AE-38"W7 series
Matrix x-spdif2, brax DSP with matching amps, speakers depending on locations but probably legatia X 3-way, and a 13w7ae.
So, I own a semi truck. Currently have a 12" L7. The build is 3 L7s and 8, 6.5inch ds18. Running with rockville dbcomp5 and 2 db45s with a audiocontrol dm-810. That's if I don't change my mind again lol
My current dream with no budget in mind would be for my quad cab... Kenwood DNR1008RVS head unit, two 10" Infinity Kappa sealed, 3 way Component Infinity Kappa Actively controlled front, 2 way component infinity Kappa rear(I'd settle passive), 6 channel amplifier front, 4 channel rear amplifier and 2 channel rear Sub amplifier, 12 Channel DSP, and Good thorough Sound deadening of the body. I don't want loud obnoxious bass, I want clear clean when quiet up to full control range. Don't have any idea which specific amps I want I haven't shopped for amps in forever so the stuff I used to look at don't exist anymore, Don't know of any 12 channel DSP that are good.
also a recommendation the altinator out put is different at idle as opposed to driving if it's 250amp alt find out what it is at idle vise vera
Dream System: Mechman 370, XSPower batteries, Morel Supremo 602, Raven 12XL subs, Mosconi DSP 8to12 Aerospace with 2 LC4.800s and 2 LC1.1500s........ oh wait... that is my current system lol! the only thing im changing in future is to Mosconi Pro amps.
My dream car audio system is what im currently working on just need a different DSP and a D-1200 with my current Lc-400 and LC-800 Morels are already done, need a complete sound treatment for a 2011 Dodge Durango. My power and ground are KnuKoncepts 0 gauge with 4 gauge at the distros
I bet those Morels sound amazing. I always get Rockford speakers but will probably splurge next time on Morel.
@@gjenkins1660 I discovered how great they sounded when I added power to them and I mean 160 watts rms........I was sold at that point and i have had alot of speakers since, I had the original MB Quartz back in the early 90's so my listening ear is a little bougie LOL
Great video Mark. Keep them coming.
1000hz? I though sub was in 20 to 60hz range? Top video either way!
My dream set up would be , dls 6"splits and mids , 1x jl audio 12w7 subwoofer , powered by ark audio 4.150 for the splits and a mono , 1500watt ark audio to Power the sub. Processor , dls.
Just recently finished my stereo build in my 2013 F150 SuperCrew. Hertz Mille Pro 163.3 3-way component system up front in custom pillars. Hertz Mille Pro 6.5 coaxial in the rear doors. For subs, I used 4 JL Audio 10TW3 D-4 under the rear seat. Front and rear are powered by JL Audio HD600/4 and the subs are powered by JL Audio HD 1200/1. Amps tuned to proper gain voltage and time alignment for all speakers. Entire cab of the truck, including the actual door panels, was covered in Sound Skins Pro sound deadening. Couldn't be happier with the outcome.
My dream system:
I will not be picky with the source, anything that runs smooth, has touchscreen, apple carplay and rca's out.
For the mids/high s I would want to integrate some deaf bonce sylvester/arnolds in the already existing door locations (I know a lot of SQ guys are here but i prefer high efficiency)
Any good horn tweeter that complements the mids would do.
Amplifing them i would love at least 150w/channel, but i would rarely use it over 50w.
For the bass part i would go with one 15' ore two 12's, just because i still need some trunk space for other things. My prefference for the subs would be Pride neo , just because they are extremely powerful and don't weigh that much.
I would like a 5k amp for the bass but use less than half, just in case i will need it in some ocasions.
For the dsp I would go with Hertz
My dream car audio system without budget would be 4x18s DD9918 esp supercharged subs in a 6th order bandpass smashin lowws..
I have a question about your wiring diagram, there is one wire missing. The remote control wire from the amps to the head unit, I know this holds a small amount of power. Now when connecting 2-3 amplifiers a system how would I splice/ distribute this properly? would I need to add a small capacitor in the system then split from there? or just wire them together before the head unit? and help would be appreciated. I have done about 10 installs over about 15 years, on personal vehicles of all sorts and I have found your videos rather informative and touch on some of the things most people over look, Thanks for them and keep up the good work.
Will there be problems if you use 10 gauge wiring for your door speakers?
Full sql build 5000 watt subwoofer and the correct mids and high to complement the subwoofer on a dsp for sound quality
This is challenging to answer, as I've spent so much time looking for and comparing gear I can afford and be happy with that I really haven't paid all that much attention to the high end stuff in a really long time. The system from this video probably isn't far off from where I would want to land, going off of JL's reputation.
Excellent
I have a BMW 352i, and I love bass so I want at #4 8" 500watts 4 Ohms, #6 6.5"mids and #4 tweeters with audio control 6 channels LC7i all JL Audio need help withs and wire amplifiers #2 bass amplifiers #2 A/B amplifiers
My dreah audio sustem is 4 skar evl 12s on a 5k with 8 6.5 ds18 door speakers and 8 1 inch.ds18 tweeters. On two kicker 360.4. a 190 ah northstar battery with a js 320 alternator.
I have a 2020 silverado 1500 crew cab, I just drilled through the floor and put my ground to the chassis. I wire brushed it until the chassis was silver then i attached my ground. I hope this is good to go lol seems to be fine so far
My dream system is to finish my current one... Still after a few years I haven't finished it now I'm debating if I wanna go a different route with the system and downgraded somewhat , Which would make it not my dream system right😂
I have a question, does the math change if your running a second battery still on a stock alternator?
Second battery on stock alternator is not a good idea.
If your drawing enough for 2 batteries, that alternator will exhaust itself trying to charge 2. Not enough balls.
Hello bro always watch your videos.. Really great..
Can you help me to clarify if it's good to distribute sound(rca?) from one amplifier to another,of its better to distribute directly from head unit and splitting the rca's Thank you
Dream audio system: 3 way c7 components in the front and 2 way c7 components in the rear, 2 12w7ae subwoofers all powered at full capacity with as much sound insulation as will fit in the vehicle
That’s what I’m trying to do! But I have no idea what amp to use for all the components
for a dream car audio system. What I would love to have is a setup similar to the Cars movie DJ character. I would have this as a show car mostly.
I would go for around 6-8 12s and maybe 2 18s. would want around 2 component per door (probably 6in). I also would be running some lighting to match the music or for mood. lastly I would go for a custom head unit (self made with specific computers). for mounting amps and boxes I would go for acrylic enclosures for hardware and amps then a very acoustic wood (real, not MDF style).
So after watching this and a later vid, did you drop the run to the battery for the ground after all?
I have a question. So could I do this setup using my stock headunit?
Wow my dream car audio for bass 2 18" and for the front doors 3 12" speakers on each door whit 3 drver each and in the rear 1 12" on each door and 1 driver each door upgrade alternator battery cell and all costum made for my car power at less 10k for bass or better for speakers 1 amp for hi and 1 for mid will be crazy loud and expensive 😁
When calculating rms watt is that the at the lowest impedance I.e 2 ohms or what my speakers are 4 ohms ?
can anyone help me figure out what kind of distribution blocks and how many i need for my new setup? head unit kw-z1000w, 4infinity kappa 6.5, 2-10's alpine s type, 2 amps sundown 200.4d/1500d, audio control dm-608 dsp and a audio control the epicenter! i was thinking KonFUSED 4 Way Fused Distribution Block or 2 Bassik 3 Way 0 to 0 - 4 Gauge High Current Fuse Distribution Block.
Dream system.
-Helix director and helix dsp
-amps:
-stereo integrity siq 3000D x 2
-stereo integrity siq 200.4
-stereo integrity siq 200.2
Speakers:
-audio from components for mids and highs (gb60 gb25 gb15)
- 4 audio frog 6x9 for rear deck(GS 690)
Subwoofers
- 4 stereo integrity siq 12s in a sealed box
Deck: pioneer deh80prs
Alternator: mechman 370
Lithium: 90ah
4 runs of 0 guage to the back
Resonix sound deadener trunk to front roof to floor
Then mlv over everything then closed cell foam or soundskin over everything after. Black tiles in the doors for directional mid bass.
I think this is a dream build to listen to for sql(mostly spl with 4 12s) and musicality purposes. Definitely don't see my wallet ever touching these items at least anytime soon, however the concept sounds fun and ideally I think it would be a lot of fun to install and work on. Anything bigger than that involving a wall and extra bracing for the roof sounds like even more effort then I'm willing to give. however the idea of no price limit may definitely change those opinions. If I were to install everything myself this is what I would run^
While we have very similar tastes, it'd be hard for me to get behind a single din HU that came out nearly a decade ago. Otherwise, my selections would be very similar.
@@RAW_Reality just a bit un educated about what's out currently. Not really too sure what's came out recently that I'd need more. I like the aesthetic in a single din however I guess correct if I didn't have a budget I'd probably go with something a bit more fancy however my knowledge of head units and specific features that come with them are limited. It plays cds, has decent cross over control, decent and easily readable rcca outs. Plus depending on the car a single din maybe what fits best. I'm biased off equipment I've used and somewhat heard
@@ryleythompson2314 No worries, I'm hardly judging. And you're absolutely right about having a HU that "fits the type of vehicle". I'd go as far as to say that I'm biased towards double dins for the sake of having everything easily found/pressed and/or being on a touchscreen. And since I typically do things wirelessly these days, the BT v3 on the model you listed would annoy me. My dream HU (the Sony XAV-9500ES) would be absurd in a typical SUV location, while it'd suit a more luxurious car layout with much more appeal, so I'd likely end up "settling" with a Kenwood Excelon DNX997XR for an SUV.
If it came right down to "requiring" a single din receiver though, the Kenwood eXcelon KDC-X704 would probably be my go-to.
What I have -minus 200 plus amp extra alternator on top of what I have I'm currently pulling everything out I went way too overboard for this vehicle even with to a GM's and 220 amp hours of lithium and 50 farad capacitor. I was kidding myself thinking 150 a alternator could do it . I'm just guessing immediate protection mode is my clue
Mark, why don't you just combine the total fuse ratings of the amps? That represents the maximum amps each device is capable of safely using. Basing both the cable guage and cable fusing based on that allows the system to be safely driven at its max capacity regardless of how you use it.
Sure, if a person is only going to use half its power capacity you can save money doing it the other way. But for me, I'd teach people first to safely wire and fuse based on max capacity (equaling maximum safety) and then show people the more complex way if they need to save money on cable and fusing. But honestly, the difference in cost is small in comparison to the cost of amps, speakers, processors, and headunit so I personally would recommend ppl to save money elsewhere. 🤷♂️
High end Focal system well placed speakers no large custom door panels with multiple woofers. A few decent subwoofers, could be Focal or Sundown. Stinger dash. Excellent sound deadening for a foundation.
Honestly a recreation of a former system I competed with would be my dream system. Was also last system my mom heard in a rig of mine before she passed. Three way cdt audio system up front, 225 hcca bridged running each side passive, 250 hcca running 8 Orion xtr 8 inch subs in a wall. Linear power x02 crossover and audio control eql. That was a fun system.
Man they don't make amps like the Redline anymore. Orion subs and amps were amazing before they sold to Hott Setup. Pro Tip, if they sell it at Best Buy is probably low/ midgrade.
R.I.P. Orion HCCA, Phoenix Gold, and PPI
Thanks Mark! Great rundown of a complex install. I wanted to ask - I think the diagram is missing a fuse on the positive connection from the battery?
The best speaker system? One that can go from at least 4Hz to 22khz perfectly flat response when eq is flat. at moderately loud volumes.
At least 4Hz? 6 won't do?
@@yohanathandowns9057
I can hear down to 4hz
and I can hear up to 22khz
😆 flat
@@jeffmofo5013 go get your ear canals checked, you may be on to something evolutionary. Seismologist would pay great for that ability
@@yohanathandowns9057
maybe it's just vibrating my head and I perceive it as sound...
Hey so i have a bit of a problem because i dont know if my maths are wrong?
I have 16 4ohm 8 inch mid range speakers. 4 for each door of my car. I also have two 4 channel amplifiers. I want to use two of the four channels on each amp which will give me 4ohms/channel. Each amp will put out 4x200w RMS. SInce i don't have any subwoofers does that mean that i only need to add 200 to 200 and then devide that number (400) by 14.4V? The result is 27,7 amps which seems so small a number compared to your 125, especially since im running 16 mid range speakers? Thanks beforehand :)
Listen buddy, I’m an electrical engineer. What’s wrong with sine waves!?
Jokes aside, this really helped me. I have 2014 Subaru Legacy and not a lot of guidance so I probably don’t need to replace my alternator maybe just upgrade my wires for 600 watts (4 channels 75 Watts RMS @ 4 Ohms and 300 Watts RMS @ 1 or 2 Ohms)
I am presently building my dream system in my dream truck, 2018 Raptor. System consists of Knukoncepts power, signal, speaker wiring, and fuse/distribution.
Source:
factory head unit using NAVTV A2B adapter
Amps:
JL Audio XD800/8 & 1000/1
Speakers:
1pair-Hertz Mille Legend 280 tweeters in a-pillars
2pairs-Hz Pro165.3, one pair in front and rear doors with complete sound deadening
Subs:
2-Sundown Audio SD4 12d4 in custom enclosure led lit with 3 logos, down firing, enclosure under rear seat by SoundsGood stereo.
All speaker brackets laser cut by SoundsGood stereo.
DSPs:
Micro Epicenter (when available)
MiniDSP C-DSP 8x12 DL
Can’t wait to get it all installed and EQ’d. Doing all the work myself because I used to do this for a living… great job on explaining everything to the masses in all your videos.
Hi. Im looking to do my dream car audio system. But i need help, I'm on a budget but so i can't take it to get done. This is what I want, two component speaker sets along with two pairs of coaxial speakers. Now for subs, i want 4 10" subs with 3 12" subs and two 15" subs. Now I want the door speakers plus two tens playing pretty much all the time. But i also want two kill switches for the other subs. With the car audio playing, first switch will be for when the door speakers ain't cutting it. Hit the first switch and bass. And if that ain't pushing hard enough, second switch is for the 15" to get the thumping hitting sound. I want to be pushing 20,000 watts. I have an SUV. What are some suggestions or advice that you could give me for that type of project??
Dream system, huh? Probably the one I just contacted you about an enclosure for. Kinda taking my inspiration from the PPI art Chevy Astro demo van with a lot of weird little touches
3 way stereo integrity front stage, active on a PPI Art Series ax606.2 and an a600.2
2 custom Stereo Integrity HST18Mk3's on a Sundown Salt6
Rear midbass fill on a PPI Art a600
JVC El-Kameleon Head Unit
Minidisc Player as a conversation piece
A roof mount for a large projector to run video through. Portable drive in theater anyone?
a vintage vcr and tv combo with a super nintendo in the back seat
Helix DSP
Limitless Lithium Cyber12k
Mechmann Dual Alt (this is gonna be fun to figure out they don't make dual alt brackets for my car)
and OF COURSE I gotta go with that Neon Green Kandy Kable from Knu. 2 runs of 0ga and the big3.
2009 Dodge Ram 1500. PX6. JL 3.5C2 dash. 2pr 6x9tx C2. 4doors. Audio Control Mini Epicenter. Dodge Ram Q_Bomb 2 12” 12lv3-4, XD600/1 Clutchfield, JL Audio or Audio Control is not sponsoring me.
@CarAudioFabrication, Hey Mark, Dream audio system: First gen Chevy S-10 lowrider standard cab with pass through to a carpeted and tonneau covered bed, LS swap and built automatic trans of course, Sparco seats, custom console , Alpine head unit, Audio Control crossover/dsp with rta, fully active three way mids and highs setup using either Dynaudio or Focal tweeters, 3 inch mids, and 8 inch midbass drivers, all Rockford Fosgate power series amplification, three subs in ported box, JL Audio or Sundown, 12's or 13.5's, or maybe 15's. Program head unit to only play G-Funk. Now ya know.
Hi Mark! Greetings! I'm planning to install a dual amp setup in my Nissan Pathfinder R51. I've bought the Alpine iLX 702D as the HU and Rockford Fosgate R2-500X1 and R2-500X4, speakers from the same vendor. I'm a bit confused as to where to mount the amps. I do not wish to lose the 3rd row seats while the remaining seats seem to have a low space from the floor (~ 1 inch). Please suggest.
My dream system I currently have and it's really been a nightmare., I have 2 JL12 w7's in a 27hz box. I think I made a mistake on the box I said lows instead of laud. I have been throwing money at the system to try to make it sound the way I wanted and it is pushing $7k. I was to the point to have a shop to redo it but they quoted me $6k and with what I already spent that would be the price of car. Its a Corolla 2016 should I just use 1 JL w7 or get a different box. I am worn out and people really don't want to help me with I'm to the point of giving up not to mention a joke to people. I have invested so much money the guy quoting me the redo install said he would be interested in buying it but then said in the same breath what I had was too rich for his blood. At what point do I just give up and accept no matter what I do I can't enjoy the car.
$500 for the box built
2 JL 12w7ae
AC 608
JVC HU
JL RD1500
Skar 4ch 800w
Limitless Lithium
Big 3 OFC
Skar components
Infinity 6x9'a
Had
DC audio 2 DC 12lvl3's blew spider but glued back and then traded for a watch
DC audio 3.5K amp sold
I have enough 0 awg wire for sending power to an HDA M80 Alpine and a HDP D90 DSP Alpine Amps. Can I use the same 0 awg wire for the Blue Sea fuse box? Will that be too much?
Hi Mark, I got 1 set Morel supreme mw6 6 1/2 speaker set with piccolo tweeter no cross over , 1 JL amp vx 800/8 and 1 sub 10 inch focal 10WM and 1 amp JL 1000/1 for sprinter 2023 what your though and setup thanks TN
I have a 2013 Hyundai Veloster with an Audiopipe 4 channel 800W running the 4 Kicker coaxial door speakers and another Audiopipe Amp that is a 2 channel 1k W going to my 2-10" Memphis subs in a ported box with a OEM head unit and an Audio Control LC6i between the head unit and amps. I want to add 2-12" Memphis subs and 2 Audiopipe 1800.1 amps with an Amp to each 12" sub. This is going to require me to customize a box to hold 2'12" and 2-10" subs along with a custom amp rack.
My dream system has 8 tweeters, 6 mid range drivers, 4 woofers, 4 full range drivers, 4 8inch subwoofers, and 2 14inch subwoofers. A grand total of 28 speakers across 28 channels. 8,000 watts of pure and perfect audio bliss. $30,000 in equipment.
With all due respect do whatever you like but i want to understand the purpose of it. Even the music ain't made for 28 speakers and is it even gonna be any different?
Hey Mark I see you doing car builds but you have marine equipment so why don't you do a Harley build for an example how about Sony xav7000 head unit and 3 MX500/4 amps with 8 speakers 2 8in subs and 2 tweeters up front I am using kicker 6.5 speakers and 8 in subs.
Hey Mark I have a question I have a 2013 Kia optima SXL that came with the factory navigation and infinity sound with six speakers and a subwoofer but since I've had the vehicle I took everything out replaced them all with aftermarket speakers but I'm having a problem because I don't know how to wire the other three speakers the dash and the center speaker I would like to have them all working as they did when I bought the car so I just want all speakers working can you help me figure out how to wire them I have two amplifiers a capacitor and a base restoration from audio control so I have the Alpine PDX 1000 watt 5 channel amplifier and I have the kicker 3800 Watt monoblock powering the Memphis 1222 pro 12-in speakers in the doors I have JL audio c3 convertible in the front and the back I have the tweeters inside of the speakers for the mid base and I have 3-in speakers on the dash jail audio and in the center but I don't know how to wire it and I have an Alpine ILX 407 head unit I have a power distribution in the back I have a 200 w breaker from the battery and I'm powering it all with the optima battery and a majestic 5 farad capacitor could you please help my system sounds good now but I wanted to sound better and I'm thinking about getting an Alpine DSP on I'm running a 0 gauge power wire. My dream system would be the Hertz 6x5 components in the front and then mid base to the back and the 3-in speakers in the dash and the mojo pros pros 12-in subwoofers and rear and Alpine PDX amps all around with the DSP and a big smile
Could you help me design and figure out what I need for my amps. Am using 2 Skar amps, a 5 Chanel 700 and a 350 mono. Am putting in second identical battery. Do I need a compactor or bigger alt???
I'm about there ...need dm810 ,Orion xtr1500 on three alpine r10's Orion class a/b xtr500.4, and xtr750.4. 4" polk coaxial dash and three sets of alpine s all in a 17 Silverado stock 170amp alternator sx power d1200 and cap bank
Dream system:
Focal Utopia Ultima component speakers
Audison Thesis amps
Audiocontrol DSP
JL Audio W7 13" sub
CAF Installation
Im an old bass head. So when I started building my system, I wanted Memphis mids and highs. I don't think Memphis is the same quality it use to be. They look exactly like some rockville 6.5 components out there. And sound.... ok. Should have stuck with infinity
Hello, love all of your videos. Just had a question. I will be running a zapco 150.6 lx amp to my 3 way active front stage and then two 2 channel api amps both bridged for one audifrog subwoofer each. I will either be using my jl twk 88 dsp or if that wont work i will get a dsp that will work for this.My question is what do i need to do with the subwoofer rca’s because i am using two separate amps for subs? Do i need to do some kind of y connector or…?
Thanks in advance
Been watching a lot of your info , Thanks so much for all the fantastic information and ideas. you are my first ever subscription . how can i search your existing videos to see if you have already talked about a topic in the past. you have some fantastic sponsors that im building a big order list for my project. the question im looking for advice on is : should i buy a dedicated lithium ion battery to install back by the amps and a capacitor ? what would be a good match and brand to support a JL 1200 slash sub amp and a VX800/8I amp thanks in advance for any advice you can give
I've been subscribed for several years and I'm reviewing these videos again because I am working on upgrading the sound in my car. You have fantastic information and provide an invaluable service to us!
The only things I might add to this video's great information:
1) The wire from the battery to the distribution block does not show any kind of fuse or circuit breaker for protection at the battery, but I know that you would do that.
2) The additional load of the DSP that the main wire has to carry. It may be only 5 or 10 amps, but it has to be considered, so the main wire will be carrying 161 or 166 amps.
I didn't notice, but you're right. anyway, with such a good power wire between battery and distribution block there's nothing wrong with adding a fuse with more capacity than needed, like 175A, or maybe even 200A
my car has 180A stock alternator, I got a 35mm2 (2 gauge?) power wire with a 175A fuse next to the battery. my amps should in theory max out at about 93A with my setup atm. sub is 2x350W, doors are 4x75W, but I added 5W to each door because of passive crossovers, just for the theorethical max. engine idles at 13,8V, voltage drop thru the cables are just 0,04V (with chassis as ground, tnx VW for making good cars that are horrible to work on because of tight spacing)
Question when figuring out speaker size cable i have focal splits for the fronts im putiĺng in and i already have 16 g cable they are 240w total or 120w rms will 16 gage be ok or do i need to buy some 12 gage cable? Cable runs from crossovers will be 4.5 meters for one side and 7.5 meters on the other
Is it possible to add a dsp in line with my f150's factory amp? I installed an aftermarket sub with a line output converter to compensate for the lack of bass in this awful factory bang and olufson system and now I'm wanting to swap the door speakers and tweeters and be able to fine tune them. I'm not new to car audio but I will admit having a factory amp complicates things. I'd rather not have to add a multi channel amp if there's a way to add a dsp to work with the factory amp.
You didn't explain how you would feed a 0 gauge power wire or ground into your MONO amp. It won't fit the terminals! =0
my dream car audio growing up is to heavy clear loud music like at a concert outside you hear while coming up the road.....but right when u see heads turn and look your way you would push a button kinda like the ATT button on the headunit and instead of attenuate, bass bangs hard like in the ghettos that people inside their houses come out cuz they think its an earthquake...then u continue on your road and u knoe deep inside some mutter the word "what a dic%" cuz you scared them more than entertained them....🤣🤣
People need to understand on grounding a vehicle.... if you have the new cars it's unibody so yes go to the battery.... in your case you have a truck so it has a steel frame ground that sucker right to the frame as short as possible
Hi Mark, So I'm wondering why you decided to run two (2) a 2 channel amps instead of a single 4 channel amp for the front and rear speakers?
Which crossovers setting (HP, Full, LP) is best for Component Speakers w Passive Crossovers and why?
My dream System will be JL audio 3 components speakers front and rear and three 8 inch sub and JL amplifier’s and 10 inch audio video stereo
So I'm trying to build a motorcycle system with 10 speakers 2 subs and 3 amps. But no dsp . What would you do differently
Have a question bro
im only installing an aftermarket stereo an equalizer and one amp im using block distributor for my 12v lines but my question is can i chain the same remote on cable? from the stereo-EQ-amp ?
Lol, all I want is my kicker L7 15 subwoofer that was stolen from me 6years ago. Still haven't replaced it
Good Evening, I have a Harley Davidson and would like some help on wiring a new sound digital amps with Diamond audio speakers and subs.
Great video but first how did u trun everything on with no remote wire lol
The DSP has a signal and turns everything on now without the old remote wire.
Really looking forward to seeing how this system comes together, specifically how and where you mount the amps and crossovers. I have a 2020 F-150 crew cab. I haven't done anything with the audio yet, but I'll likely take a lot of "inspiration" from your build, just to a milder extent. I have a pair of JL 8W1s and a 250 watt JL amp from a previous vehicle that I plan to re-use, and I'll probably go with the JL C2 speakers rather than the C3. Still unsure what amp I want to use for those. I'm also going to keep the factory radio, so I'll probably be looking at an LCi7 to go with all of this.
So I have a 2019 charger and would like to do the Big 3 but not sure how to go about it with the battery being in the trunk and all can anyone point me in the right direction when it comes to these Mopar cars and audio installs?
Maybe Ive missed it, but have you done any vids concerning caps?
It’s suggested to just get a second battery instead
Second battery is better
How do I get directly ahold of you I have so many questions And we are building my wife a system and and I would love your point of view on almost all of it.
Where can I find the ground fuse links for the ground distribution that you use???? Need a bag full!
Why didn’t you do a 4, 6 or 8 channel amp for the fronts and rears? Dual 2 channels just doesn’t make sense
As was explained in the previous video, supply shortages. He could obtain the 2 channel models, not the 4 channel ones.