Perfect timing Mark, I was just brainstorming and drawing up some mock wiring paths and you swoop in to assist me. Huge thanks and keep up the amazing work 😎👍🏽🔥
Good tip re: the custom connectors for the speaker wires. I did the same in mine to simplify my wiring and make it idiot-proof... because the last thing I need is to close everything up and find out I mixed up the left-right pairs or polarity. It's one of those simple EE tricks you rarely see in car audio but make life so much easier, especially a few months or even years later when you decided to swap components.
Four 10's and three 13's! I wish sound carried over better on camera than it actually does. Focal mids and highs are incredible when set up correctly and in combination with the 10's and 13's, that is going to be amazing! I do see a day or two of tuning in your future tho !! LoL.
Noticed you using zip ties for storing cable bundles, and I have to recommend Velcro cable ties if you haven't thought about them. Reusable, no need to cut the extra bit off the end of a zip tie, and they're just as quick as zip ties to wrap. Very useful, highly recommend giving them a shot. Great content as always, thank you for all the useful tips you give us in every video!
@@CarAudioFabrication Definitely agree on the install wiring using zip ties, I more mean for storing cable bundles. To each their own though if you've tried them and prefer zip ties, I just remember learning about the Velcro cable ties in the past and thinking how useful they were.
never thought about heat shrinking the RCAs, thanks. I'm banging my head on where to tap high-level signal in my cx-5 for an underseat sub...either the tuner/amp in the passenger footwell, or at the b-pillar that supplies the rear door speakers 😕 🤔 🤔
@@CarAudioFabrication Thanks Mark! I watched that a few years ago but you are or where doing a project pretty recently with almost my exact setup and was wondering if you where going to go over how you tuned it. JL Audio VX1000/5i door speakers and sub, I think it was going in a f150 (exactly what I did) I cant seem to find a good vid on this and I'm not a super user. I figured out how to do most of it but I know I'm leaving a lot on the table. Thanks again man love your vids!
At what rated wattage for the front 6.5’s would you go up from factory wiring and run directly to the door? Is a component set with a rating of 75-100watts rms like a set of Alpine Type X’s or R’s 6.5” going to require larger than stock wiring?
Great video! Im currently building some custom door cards to house 2 6.5 and 1 8 inch speakers. Can you make a video about modifying the door harness connector to run bigger/more cables?
Big question I’ve wondered watching all of your videos, How do you always have the perfect length wire for an install or how do you deal with excess? Like on RCA cables?
yeah I’d like to have one some day. it’s crazy how cheap audio equipment is in some countries. I’m pretty envious of how cheap they can have power and quality too
Hello, my friend, I'm building a box and I have a question about the passive crossover. In this case it's a three-way passive crossover..., and I'd like to know how many speakers I can connect where it says "woofer". Another question is..., how many crossovers can I connect to the output?
So I have 5th Gen 2019 Ram 1500 Quadcab or some call it extended cab, have you ever done installation of anything in this model? I have limited space back there but I want to install an amp rack somewhere back there, do you have any suggestions or can you fabricate something so I can install 2 amplifiers possibly a dsp to the factory head unit using a PAC amp pro ch42? Thanks in advance
i have a question about subwoofer ports i haven't found an answer to anywhere. i want a sentered port (sub - port - sub) but the port needs to be longer than the box depth. lets say the port width would be 8cm. when the port meets the end of the box and i split it, do the 2 separate ports going to each sub need to be 4cm or 8cm. hope you know what i mean.
Hi sir, I need your help and advise. Previous i have install electronic crossover in my car.After a year i change my player to android player. Issue here i cannot get nice sound because in my android player got crossover ,dsp and few thing sound setting.My question here is should i remove my electronics crossover to get better sound?may be got clash between my android player and electronic crossover? Pls help
So I have a project like this coming up for a 2011 mini Cooper coupe. There is an a pillar tweeter and a mid range and mid woofer in the doors. The wiring harness does not allow any room for rewiring it. What I just saw in your video was you run amplifier power through The oxygen free copper wires from the back and then terminate it in a new connector to plug into the OEM wire harness going back out to the speakers. Am I interpreting this correctly? Just hate having 16 gauge wire going to the midwoofer, but unless I want to drill new holes in the door and chassis of the car and run a new loom through it, I think I am stuck with this route.
It's my truck. I talk about this in the gear selection video. Long story short I'm a car audio "RUclipsr", nothing was "wrong" I'm just not buying a new vehicle every time I want to try something different.
This is precisely the video I needed to help me complete my build, you are the best Car Audio RUclipsr on the planet!
Perfect timing Mark, I was just brainstorming and drawing up some mock wiring paths and you swoop in to assist me. Huge thanks and keep up the amazing work 😎👍🏽🔥
You've come a long way, Mark! It's been great watching you grow and become successful. Good for you, young man, good for you! 😊
Good tip re: the custom connectors for the speaker wires. I did the same in mine to simplify my wiring and make it idiot-proof... because the last thing I need is to close everything up and find out I mixed up the left-right pairs or polarity. It's one of those simple EE tricks you rarely see in car audio but make life so much easier, especially a few months or even years later when you decided to swap components.
Glad to hear you're using the same smart wiring strategy - it's a game-changer for future upgrades!
Four 10's and three 13's! I wish sound carried over better on camera than it actually does. Focal mids and highs are incredible when set up correctly and in combination with the 10's and 13's, that is going to be amazing! I do see a day or two of tuning in your future tho !! LoL.
i love to see other like minded people
Thanks!
So glad to see you clean as you go.
Your experience shows ☺️
Thanks for watching!
I love XT30/XT60 connectors. So easy to solder up and they work great
Very nice job running the wiring mark I love clean work like that
Noticed you using zip ties for storing cable bundles, and I have to recommend Velcro cable ties if you haven't thought about them. Reusable, no need to cut the extra bit off the end of a zip tie, and they're just as quick as zip ties to wrap. Very useful, highly recommend giving them a shot.
Great content as always, thank you for all the useful tips you give us in every video!
I've actually tried them in the past, but for a semi-permanent setup like this the zip ties are a better option for me.
@@CarAudioFabrication Definitely agree on the install wiring using zip ties, I more mean for storing cable bundles. To each their own though if you've tried them and prefer zip ties, I just remember learning about the Velcro cable ties in the past and thinking how useful they were.
never thought about heat shrinking the RCAs, thanks. I'm banging my head on where to tap high-level signal in my cx-5 for an underseat sub...either the tuner/amp in the passenger footwell, or at the b-pillar that supplies the rear door speakers 😕 🤔 🤔
Thank you I’ve been waiting on this video for months 😭
I've been waiting forever for you to go over the JL audio tune hopefully you do that soon!
Here you go ruclips.net/video/MSxRh9vx0mM/видео.html
@@CarAudioFabrication Thanks Mark! I watched that a few years ago but you are or where doing a project pretty recently with almost my exact setup and was wondering if you where going to go over how you tuned it. JL Audio VX1000/5i door speakers and sub, I think it was going in a f150 (exactly what I did) I cant seem to find a good vid on this and I'm not a super user. I figured out how to do most of it but I know I'm leaving a lot on the table. Thanks again man love your vids!
Thank you so much for the wiring tutorial.
At what rated wattage for the front 6.5’s would you go up from factory wiring and run directly to the door? Is a component set with a rating of 75-100watts rms like a set of Alpine Type X’s or R’s 6.5” going to require larger than stock wiring?
The custom harness connections are wild.
As always top notch content
More installation videos please!!
800k. Congratulations
Great video! Im currently building some custom door cards to house 2 6.5 and 1 8 inch speakers. Can you make a video about modifying the door harness connector to run bigger/more cables?
Hi Mark do you have any videos n how to connect subwoofer amp, amp for highs/mids an epicenter audio control and equalizer? Thank you
Big question I’ve wondered watching all of your videos,
How do you always have the perfect length wire for an install or how do you deal with excess? Like on RCA cables?
Hey Mark I’m also in Phx area & would like to know some more info on a system for my jeep wrangler 4 door. Thanks for the videos you do for us!
what is your recommended max RMS wattage we should put through the factory speaker wire before we need to run our own new speaker wire?
Yoooo I definitely need a DSP 😁
In 2024 I wouldn't want to do a system without one...
@@mr.mopedmadness3441 yeah even if you don't go crazy with EQ it is still so useful
yeah I’d like to have one some day. it’s crazy how cheap audio equipment is in some countries. I’m pretty envious of how cheap they can have power and quality too
10:05. Where do you find the connectors that can just hook up into the factory plugs?
Where are you based out of? Would you ever consider offering a service to assist with a complete install or even performing one yourself for a rate?
Hello, my friend, I'm building a box and I have a question about the passive crossover. In this case it's a three-way passive crossover..., and I'd like to know how many speakers I can connect where it says "woofer". Another question is..., how many crossovers can I connect to the output?
Where did you get the orange plug?
Hey mark, I love the show, I have a ? Where did you buy the plugs the big ones and the smaller ones thank you sir
So I have 5th Gen 2019 Ram 1500 Quadcab or some call it extended cab, have you ever done installation of anything in this model? I have limited space back there but I want to install an amp rack somewhere back there, do you have any suggestions or can you fabricate something so I can install 2 amplifiers possibly a dsp to the factory head unit using a PAC amp pro ch42? Thanks in advance
i have a question about subwoofer ports i haven't found an answer to anywhere. i want a sentered port (sub - port - sub) but the port needs to be longer than the box depth. lets say the port width would be 8cm. when the port meets the end of the box and i split it, do the 2 separate ports going to each sub need to be 4cm or 8cm. hope you know what i mean.
4:17 my kickpanels are very thin. I'm not getting the sense that there's even room there for 14 gauge speaker wire?
What size wire is the clear aftermarket you are using?
How did you run the power wires? Through the middle?
Exactly how i ran my wires when i installed door speakers once😃 just different accessories
Hi sir,
I need your help and advise.
Previous i have install electronic crossover in my car.After a year i change my player to android player.
Issue here i cannot get nice sound because in my android player got crossover ,dsp and few thing sound setting.My question here is should i remove my electronics crossover to get better sound?may be got clash between my android player and electronic crossover? Pls help
Where so you buy these empty connectors
One question. Why iff you using aftermarket speakers, and amp you still use factory wiring for front 6.5? I see 4 speaker wires in 9:53
This is explained in the video 👍
Ok. I missed picture with front 6.5
So I have a project like this coming up for a 2011 mini Cooper coupe. There is an a pillar tweeter and a mid range and mid woofer in the doors. The wiring harness does not allow any room for rewiring it. What I just saw in your video was you run amplifier power through The oxygen free copper wires from the back and then terminate it in a new connector to plug into the OEM wire harness going back out to the speakers. Am I interpreting this correctly? Just hate having 16 gauge wire going to the midwoofer, but unless I want to drill new holes in the door and chassis of the car and run a new loom through it, I think I am stuck with this route.
hope i had knew this before, now I have 12 channels of wiring which i am confused with!
I prefer the 4 10s I think they would have a quicker response due to being smaller !!!
Size relation to "quickness" is a myth
I'd really like to know why the owner decided on a new install, what was wrong with the first install ?
It's my truck. I talk about this in the gear selection video. Long story short I'm a car audio "RUclipsr", nothing was "wrong" I'm just not buying a new vehicle every time I want to try something different.
Your soldering station looks like back pain central!
Jesse Pinkman likes knuconcepts.
Science!