Home Made Skis - Part 1

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  • Опубликовано: 17 окт 2024

Комментарии • 23

  • @nelsn3957
    @nelsn3957 2 года назад +1

    hey im trying to make a pair of skis for a school project, what should i use as a base material?

    • @redbarrelskis3361
      @redbarrelskis3361  Год назад +1

      Check Crown Plastics for Durasurf. Its HPDE specifically made for ski/snowboard costruction.

  • @CheesedoffBlog
    @CheesedoffBlog 4 года назад +3

    this is pretty dope! can't wait for Part 2 :)
    Any advice where to get started learning about ski building? Websites, books, etc.

    • @redbarrelskis3361
      @redbarrelskis3361  4 года назад +3

      Thanks man!! I'd say probably the best website, that's currently just a forum unfortunately, is skibuilders.com. Also happymonkeysnowboards.com is great, there's some book recommendations there. I'll be making more videos and going into each step in more depth so keep an eye out for those. Thanks for my first youtube comment, made my day!

  • @MountainsEye
    @MountainsEye 4 года назад +2

    Hey,
    I want to build my own pair of skis.
    Any advice on how to mill down the core? I am very interested in a further description of your router template. ;)
    Cheers,
    Louis

    • @redbarrelskis3361
      @redbarrelskis3361  4 года назад +1

      Hey, thanks for the comment! I sure have messed up my fair share of cores :-( so I do have some advice. The two routes most people take are either a planer sled or a router table. I have destroyed more than a couple cores on a planer sled, so ya, warning there be demons in those waters... The router table can do damage, but its never as bad. My version 2.0 router table is made from 1 sheet of 3/4" plywood, masonite, and Velcro. Its 7' long and 16" wide. It has 3 layers. The top layer is the rails for the sled, they are 2" wide by 7' long and run down the sides. The middle layer is the part the cores rest on and is 16" wide. I used a 2" hole saw to make bunch of holes for clamps. Then the bottom layer is 4x2" wide strips evenly spaced. Those are for room for a clamp's head. The sled is ~8" long, (16"+ 2x3/4"=17.5") wide. Then I put Velcro on the rails to hold ski profile spacers - strips and wedges of wood. Finally I put masonite on top of that for a smooth gliding surface. I do both cores at the same time so they are exactly the same. The biggest flat ended router bit you/your router can handle will make the process go faster. You've motivated me to do a in depth video on it, so keep an eye on my channel I will get one going in the near future. Thanks again.

    • @MountainsEye
      @MountainsEye 4 года назад

      @@redbarrelskis3361 Thanks a lot for this long answer! As far as I can tell I understood everything right now, curious to see how it translates into my own work. :D
      I will definitely have an eye on your channel since there are not that many great ski building channels out there.
      ;)

    • @NielsDivens
      @NielsDivens 4 года назад

      @@redbarrelskis3361 Your Jig does look solid! I would also definitely be interested in a more in depth video.
      I will start the build of my first pair soon :).
      The part I do not really understand from your explanation above is the use of the velcro...

    • @redbarrelskis3361
      @redbarrelskis3361  4 года назад +1

      @@NielsDivens Hey niels, thanks for the comment! The velcro just prevents the spacers from shifting when I'm running the sled up and down. Didn't want them to slip out either side, or shift up and down the jig lengthwise... You could use double sided tape, hot glue, or what ever to accomplish that task. I just had some velcro lying around. Not sure if you've seen it but I did post the more in depth video. Thanks for watching!!

  • @martinfuente838
    @martinfuente838 4 года назад +1

    Great video, I build my own F82R trimaran sailboat so I know what you talk about building things. If I was to build skis (I wanted to do that for a long time) I would have no worries of the actual build, but it would be rather difficult to nail the stiffness/ characteristic of the ski. How would you describe the ski you build. Could you inform about wood thickness and laminate weight. I can tell the glass is 45/45 and maybe some 0/90, I guess around 450 g/m2 thats 170 oz/ft2 ? I used to dig that skibuilders.com site, but it is no longer available, thats a shame. Thank a lot.

    • @redbarrelskis3361
      @redbarrelskis3361  4 года назад

      Thanks!! Wow, sailboat building is no joke, that's super cool! I've made maybe 20 pair, the biggest factor in overall stiffness is the thickness of the core. If you end up at 8mm or less in the waist it will feel floppy and binding screws may be an issue, 10 -12 mm is the sweet spot, 12-14 is getting beefy. The tip and tail should taper down to close to the tip and tail spacer thickness (~1.5 mm) for a lighter, buttery ski. I would add some carbon stringers for that kind of setup. I usually only taper it to ~4 mm. I like a good carving ski that won't chatter at high speeds... Your are right, the fiberglass is triaxial: 0,45,45. 18-22 oz/ft^2 is common. I use 20 oz/ft^2 most of the time. I'm 5'10", 150 lb...

    • @martinfuente838
      @martinfuente838 4 года назад

      @@redbarrelskis3361 Very helpfull, I was not aware of the mistake when converting from grams to oz, I meant 19 0z/f2 ( not 170 !!) so my initial guess was not far off. I am app 5'8 (178 cm) and also 150 lb (68 kg).
      So I will focus on the right size core, thanks a lot .

  • @darrenklug8833
    @darrenklug8833 4 года назад

    what are you using for a cutter? that looks really expensive.

    • @redbarrelskis3361
      @redbarrelskis3361  4 года назад +1

      Hey, thanks for the comment! The drag knife is from Donek tools, D4 I believe. It wasn't cheap (~$250). I ordered the wrong one initially and they exchanged it no prob, so I really liked their customer service and highly recommend them. It uses standard, exchangeable razor blades. I figured it was a buy it for life kind of tool. It helps keep the base material stuck to the vacuum table which is a big bonus. The CNC is a 500 mm X-Carve that I converted to a 2000 x 500 mm. That ran ~1350 for the machine and another ~200 for extra parts. So all in all was about ~2k (or 2 pair of skis off the shelf 😉)

  • @CooperFochler1
    @CooperFochler1 2 года назад

    How do you make a custom top sheet and boottem sheet

  • @ulrichschmitt2489
    @ulrichschmitt2489 3 года назад

    you use a good milling machine.
    can you tell me the name of the manufacturer ?

    • @redbarrelskis3361
      @redbarrelskis3361  3 года назад

      Hey Ulrich. Yeah so that machine originally was a 500mm X-Carve from Inventables. I hacked it with some makerslide, cable guide, belt, and 80-20 parts. Now its 2m by 500mm. I can give you more details if your interested... Cheers!

  • @rogeliofuentealbalopez9724
    @rogeliofuentealbalopez9724 3 года назад

    Min 1:55 what's the name of that press??

    • @redbarrelskis3361
      @redbarrelskis3361  3 года назад +1

      Those are called 4 way clamps, you can find the on amazon...

    • @rogeliofuentealbalopez9724
      @rogeliofuentealbalopez9724 3 года назад

      @@redbarrelskis3361 thanks!! I will try my first skies with your tutorials.

  • @qin.da.legend6908
    @qin.da.legend6908 4 года назад

    Most people don’t have industrial size ski presses and CNc machines

    • @redbarrelskis3361
      @redbarrelskis3361  4 года назад +1

      Hi Qin, thanks for the comment. Trust me I know, it is super rare. I spent about ten years getting my garage to where its at. For the record building skis is neither easy or cost efficient. But it is an amazing experience. To me its worth the effort. To many its not. Wooden ski presses, paper templates and jigsaws are always an option. Don't underestimate the power craftiness and determination. This video is just how I do it. Thanks for watching!!