Awesome tutorial buddy……just had my challenger, stripped it down already and this is one of the upgrades I am doing…..this is invaluable ( as are all your others, especially to us noobs!) much appreciated……👍🤙
Awesome mate 👍 love watching your vids. Learning quite a bit from you. Many thanks for your help 👍. Have you done a tutorial on how to remove metal tracks, and how to put them back?? I would like to Burnish my Abrahams Tracks, but not quite sure if this is easy enough. Many thanks mate, keep up the good work 👍
Hi! I think I have?? If there double pin I tend to just remove the sprocket or idler wheel, braking the tracks with double pins is a bit of a pain!. You’d probably have to spilt the hull top off to do both ways. Thanks so much for watching, and taking the time to say hi! Makes the channel worthwhile! Have a great week!
"cannon lifting" = "elevation and depression" perhaps? :) The Pro version with all steel equipment plus this slip ring / rotary base junction looks like it would back a half decent vehicle. Is it possible to disable the "non Newtonian" bonkers recoil (e.g. gun at 9 o'clock, but vehicle moves back when it fires)?
Hi! Good old Chinese translations 😉 and you can’t really unless you do the servo recoil. The bonkers recoil works by the barrel being attached to the bb plunger with a metal arm connector. This though make a servo conversion really easy, you just slap a servo on the side of the unit, and attach the linkage to the servo, it’s even easier if you don’t want the bb unit, you can convert the bb unit by chopping off the bottom motor part, or by the plethora of 3d print or heng long recoil units. You will need a new board with servo support, heng long 7.1 ,tongde boards, or Clarke etc Sorry be taken ages to get back, been nuts! Have a great week!
@@mrtankalotrctankschannel Thank you for taking the time to respond. I'm not interested in the BB option (no desire to break things or risk putting a child's eye out). I'm trying to get something respectable without mortgaging the house for a Tamiya, Agora or Amortek option (and then having to add 3rd party steel parts to most of those).
Awesome tutorial buddy……just had my challenger, stripped it down already and this is one of the upgrades I am doing…..this is invaluable ( as are all your others, especially to us noobs!) much appreciated……👍🤙
No thank you for watching! I think you all deserve a medal putting up with me!.
Sorry I’ve taken ages to get back, been a bit nuts!
Have a great week!
No thank you for watching! And I think you all need a medal for watching it 🙂
Sorry I’ve taken ages to get back, been a bit nuts!
Have a great week
Awesome mate 👍 love watching your vids. Learning quite a bit from you. Many thanks for your help 👍. Have you done a tutorial on how to remove metal tracks, and how to put them back?? I would like to Burnish my Abrahams Tracks, but not quite sure if this is easy enough. Many thanks mate, keep up the good work 👍
Hi!
I think I have?? If there double pin I tend to just remove the sprocket or idler wheel, braking the tracks with double pins is a bit of a pain!.
You’d probably have to spilt the hull top off to do both ways.
Thanks so much for watching, and taking the time to say hi! Makes the channel worthwhile!
Have a great week!
Great video, good job...
Thanks so much! And thanks for watching, have a great weekend 👍
I haven't even got my Abrahms yet and I have already ordered this hop up for it :)
I hate to say it’s a bit addictive, and there’s so much stuff!! 😂
Have a great day!
"cannon lifting" = "elevation and depression" perhaps? :)
The Pro version with all steel equipment plus this slip ring / rotary base junction looks like it would back a half decent vehicle. Is it possible to disable the "non Newtonian" bonkers recoil (e.g. gun at 9 o'clock, but vehicle moves back when it fires)?
Hi!
Good old Chinese translations 😉 and you can’t really unless you do the servo recoil.
The bonkers recoil works by the barrel being attached to the bb plunger with a metal arm connector.
This though make a servo conversion really easy, you just slap a servo on the side of the unit, and attach the linkage to the servo, it’s even easier if you don’t want the bb unit, you can convert the bb unit by chopping off the bottom motor part, or by the plethora of 3d print or heng long recoil units.
You will need a new board with servo support, heng long 7.1 ,tongde boards, or Clarke etc
Sorry be taken ages to get back, been nuts!
Have a great week!
@@mrtankalotrctankschannel Thank you for taking the time to respond.
I'm not interested in the BB option (no desire to break things or risk putting a child's eye out).
I'm trying to get something respectable without mortgaging the house for a Tamiya, Agora or Amortek option (and then having to add 3rd party steel parts to most of those).