Lucas Hyrdaulic Oil Booster and Stop Leak - 2 Months Running in a Ford 8N Tractor
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- Опубликовано: 10 сен 2024
- I put this Lucas hydraulic oil booster and stop leak in my Ford 8n tractor to run it through the hydraulic system and try to improve my 3 point hitch performance. I ran it for about 2 months and these were my results.
I'm about to try some of this Lucas product on my older Bobcat. The two-drive motors it has do have some leaks that I'm hoping it can slow down. Once I get the engine back installed and fluids filled I'll be dropping another video to show the results.
All the videos show the 3 point lowering for comparison. 3 Point hitches lower by gravity, not under hydraulic power, that is they are now powered down. The pump has nothing to do with lowering, only raising. Raising various loads would be a more appropriate test to see how the Lucas booster performs.
I think what your missing is that I’m pushing in the clutch, not releasing the hydraulic lever/pressure. When I push in the clutch, the hydraulics fade off, and quick, when all I have done is made the pump stop pumping, not pushed the handle down to lower the trailer. What I’m showing is that the hydraulics leak down very quickly, even after using this “booster”. It says it’s supposed to stop “internal leaks” and it’s still leaking internally because the only time anything stays up when on the 3 point hitch is when the pump is running. Otherwise it’s down in seconds.
@@DereksWorkshopAndProjects I have a bucket on my tractor and it will drop down when I shut the engine off. Mine takes a while where yours is faster but still same concept. One, or more, of the seals in the cylinder is leaking. Sometimes a stop leak will help but sometimes the seal actually breaks. It starts out round and in one piece like the letter O but when it breaks, it looks more like the letter C. It has a large gap in it. Nothing will help that except replacing the seal. I rebuilt the curl cylinders on my tractor a few years ago and am about to replace the lift cyclinders next. I don't want to wait until the thing won't stay up at all or falls and hits me on the head. By the way, this is also how seals sometimes fail in a A/C on a car.
The bad thing about a lift cylinder for the rear, it is inside the tractor case. On my bucket, I take the pressure off, remove the hoses, pull two pins and it will literally fall off. You have to disassemble a lot of stuff to get to the rear one since it is inside. Every tractor I've seen needing this turns into a big job. Dang near like replacing a clutch. Repairing the cylinder is easy, getting to it is not. At least not that I've ever seen.
The good part about them being inside, they are not exposed to the enviorment like external ones are. Rarely rust or even get dirty. After all, they are inside the tractor with fluid slinging everywhere when the gears are spinning. Makes them last a lot longer but also harder to repair when they do break.
Really nice tractor. I suspect that tractor is like your baby. LOL Did you ever dive in and really fix it?
I added some Motorkote friction reducer to my reservoir & it quieted the gear noise when driving drastically. I’ll have to try this too.
The piston assembly inside the top lid, bleeding off around the piston seal???
I'm afraid, you are just going to have to rebuild/ replace the cylinder and piston under the lift cover. It most likely still has the steel ringed piston. Update it to the NAA o ring style piston and a new cylinder. You can perform this work in an afternoon.
I actually have the parts to do that, I’m just taking way too long to put it in.
A 8n holds 5 gallons you need 1/2 gallon for 10% 1 gallon for 20%. Change your oil 1st
9n has 90w in sump . Not really hyd fluid. the additive makes a larger difference in 20w systems
Is just the seal in pump i fix my easy fix
mine was dropping quickly it was my piston under the seat the seal was gone
Yeah it’s not always going to be as simple as just adding Jack oil, but it’s not the first time I’ve had to do this on a Jack and I’m sure it won’t be the last.