727 Mopar Transmission Workshop: Input Shafts, Converters, and Real Time Converter Install
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- Опубликовано: 14 ноя 2022
- After installing the 727 into the 1965 dodge coronet,I wanted to share the modifications that were made by @mikeeiben3430 at Top Line Converter, for the modifications.
For more information on all things 727 check out @coperacingtrans .
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Wow I was expecting it to just pop in but it didn't and that's kind of the point, you have to be patient and persistent. Back in the 80s we tried putting a 71 converter in a 66 727, after an hour we counted the splines, didn't have any Mopar Joe vids back then😄. Oh and the lockup converters are 23 splines, another curve ball to look out for.
Thanks Jaybo. I appreciate you watching
Good stuff as always. Although I am a little bit disappointed that you didn’t pinch your fingers between the converter and the bell housing. Lol😂
Haha! See Duddie’s adventure for that😂
@@JustMoparJoe 😂😂
Its hit or miss for me me, some times i get it first try and others it takes a while haha, Great Video Joe!
Thanks Duddie! As the converter spins, so are the days of our lives.
Thank you Mopar Joe, that was very nice of you
Thanks For sharing your knowledge and hard work! Hope to pick up my CRT transmission early December!
I like the drain plug on the old converter
It’s true. A neat feature. I saw it mentioned in the factory service manual as well.
Back in the day I built transmissions we would buy cores for parts I would get the 4 pinion planets and buy hemi front drums ,heavy duty bands and bolt in rear sprags, made for a strong transmission, oh ya the 5 clutch hemi drum was 43 bucks from Direct Connection
That’s wild! Everything is hard to get these days. Thanks for sharing! I won’t throw anything away z
@@JustMoparJoe Hey Joe screw two longer bolts in the converter and you can use them as handles to get it in easier
We used to specify a '66 Hemi converter to get one to fit the 19spl and have high stall! Used to be cores available, 7/16" bolt threads and all!! The last one I was able to get was in 1992, I think it was less than $100, rebuilt in the box. Now it's all custom, unless you have a core to R&R for rebuilding....
I’m definitely saving this one. Thank Rod
Coronet is going to be fresh from bumper to bumper !!!!
Thanks Tim! Looking forward to test drive!
Great video.
Always need to be patient when putting the converters in.
Good job.
No bad front pumps now.
Take care, Ed.
Thanks Ed! Had to give it a spin
I've always found it a lot easier to look into the pump first and see where the ears of the pump are (say at 3 and 9 o'clock). Then orient the torque converter's slots to the same position. It usually goes in deep after a few seconds of wiggling.
thank you for sharing your information with all of us with the Mopar Transmissions and I am very proud of you and your RUclips channel is growing keep up the good work brother I'm probably going to need some help with my transmission or maybe can help me find a good transmission to withstand lots of horsepower for my 2013 5.7 Hemi engine
Thanks Brandon!
Stubborn sucker that one was! Great video Joe!
Thanks buddy. It’s one of those patience games, sometimes.
Great video! Great tip!👍
Thanks Mitch!
Ain't converters fun! Great video Joe!
I like to screw a couple long bolts into the lugs, as you said, it sure makes it easier and you don’t risk pinching your fingers.
Thanks Garry. I may have to source some!
Very nice. That car is looking good!!!
Thanks John! I hope to lay a black mark on Friday! 😂
Nice video Joe!
Thanks brother. One more spin and the converter will go in😂
This video helped me figure out what was wrong with my transmission. I installed it wrong !
Oh man! Hopefully it didn’t hurt the front pump or anything. I know it’s boring watching the converter spin, but some are more difficult than others.
Great video Joe, as always thanks for the content and helpful information brother! Thanks for the tech tip as well Mr. Cope! So, this video was really interesting because I think for years I may have just gotten lucky seating the torque convertors into the transmission after changing the front seals etc.. when overhauling or doing a swap. Well, I bought a 76' B200 shorty hotrod van a couple years ago and it was only about 30 miles from home. The van ran okay (360) original, but the guy said...man, the transmission works okay but the front pump seal pours it out! I got several spare quarts of atf, and a gallon jug from Atwoods..wired up a funnel with the doghouse off, and made the cruise to home without a hitch smiling the whole way because of all the looks! Pure tackyness😅
So after getting back, I had another small block 727 from an RV that I thought would be perfect to use.. so after throwing a new front pump seal in it.. I slid the torque convertor in rolled it once..and it moved in some. Having never payed much attention as to how far was correct I didn't give it a second thought...slapped the flex plate bolts in, the bell housing bolts, starter etc.. and considered everything to be golden! Once I got enough fluid in it, I fired it up let it idle a second and after double checking the fluid level...proceeded to take it for a drive. It ran out ok.. shifted first to second fine, didn't get out of town so didn't confirm the last gear shift; but everything seemed so smooth I assumed it would be there all the same. What was really concerning, was when I pulled into the gas station to put some fuel in. I shifted to park, shut the engine off and hopped out to pump gas...and quickly learned that PARK...didn't work!!! I had to run in front of the van and put some serious grunt into keeping it from hitting the Lexus fueling up in front of me! Thankfully the guy fueling up next to me had a brick that he threw in front of the tire...after helping me push it back to where my gas pump was! Thank God for helpful people!
It drove back to the house fine after getting gas.. but PARK still didn't hold or seem to exist in it and I have not had a chance to pull it back apart-for one because I wasn't sure exactly why that happened. Do you think that I failed to get the torque convertor fully seated, and that is what caused Park not to hold?! If you Joe, or any of the other viewers have any insight to offer...it would be much appreciated! Thanks, and Go Mopar!!!
Thanks for sharing! The park may not have fully engaged. I know the rods and holes can get sloppy. Converter was probably fine or you’d have known it in a few minutes
@@JustMoparJoe thanks Joe!
Thanks Joe. Doing a 518 and your videos have been a great help..Wish someone could do a video on first starting a rebuilt trans...I've liberally lubed everything with my concoction of Vaseline and Lucas transmission juice...still just filling it up and firing off just seems...bad lol..I've first started many engines and a few trannies with no problems. However, those were someone else's and I wasn't liable..this one is mine and I have 1800$ dollars in parts in it ..thanks to you and others, no labor as I'm building it myself.
Very cool! That’d be a good one for John Cope at CRT
Good info as usual but I still love the 318 poly it has good pulling power an a beautiful exhaust note . They are a good strong engine that go forever . 🇦🇺👍🏻
Thanks Y’all! It will get a new home and rebuild someday.
You always have good content Joe😊
I appreciate that, Shane! I’m certain you’ve stabbed way more Chevy converters than I have.
Patience and knowledge is the best way to go.
Thanks for the tip 👍
Thanks brother
It didn’t take me as much spinning for my 65 Plymouth converter to fall in to place . I was probably lucky! I was hoping you would show the rebuild on that transmission. Thanks
Thanks Cave Dave. I have over 40 pictures that the builder sent me, but they all go to the owner on a flash drive. I wasn’t able to get any build footage of it. But hopefully, I can take the first test drive this Friday 🤞🏻
I always take a Sharpie and make a mark in the bell housing before I disconnect the torque converter. I like the tape measure method. I will try it next time.
Thanks brother. A caliper may be more accurate, but it gets it done!
We always look forward to and seeing a great new production, from JMJ!
Thanks John!
@@JustMoparJoe welcome my friend
Great work Joe (as always) and now I know how deep the converter needs to be. Thanks Joe !
Thanks buddy!
Can confirm, i'm rebuilding a 1964 Pushbutton A727 19 spline, the front clutch has 4 clutches, the rear has 4 clutches also with 3 gear planetary for both front and rear.
I have a core converter if you need one to rebuild
@@JustMoparJoe Appreciate the offer, but i have the old converter so i think i can make that work with the new converter. Thanks for the reply!
I haven't installed a converter or an automatic tranny in quite a while. Looks like it's still about the same. Better torque converters than we had in the 70's. Nice orange paint job. I'll be doing the clutch/pressure plate thing with my 833 tranny. Thinking about making it a hydraulic clutch this time. The Coronet is looking good. They should be really pleased when you give it back to them. !!!
Thanks buddy! I won’t want to give it back!
Details, Details Thank You for sharing!!
Thanks for watching, brother! I like the picture 👍🏼
Another very informative video . I had no idea how you installed a torque converter . I probably would have got it started then took a block of wood and a hammer to it . Thanks Joe
Thanks Terry! I know of a Little Red Express that will get a new front seal when the engine is being redone. It’s good to switch when it’s right there. $10 preventative maintenance.
Great video
Thanks brother
Im going to greshen up the cable shift 904 in my 65 Dart GT 273 this winter.Converter choice is wrre im at.
Awesome! Since it’s such an older car, it will have a different spline count. You can send it to Mike Eiben at Top Line converter in Pennsylvania.
In Chevy world we rock back an forth till we feel it bottom out.
Thanks for the advice, sometimes it's a bit hard to tell if you don't know the distance from the edge of the bell housing, all the best to you and your loved ones
Thanks Donald!
Yep. I lost my patients once and broke loose the torque converter snout bushing inside the front pump. The bushing slid forward and ran into the front pump seal and started pucking trans fluid out instantly upon start-up. The trans and front pump have to be removed and front pump disassembled to install a new bushing......
That hurts, Eric! This took longer than expected, but finally went home.
I was getting a little dizzy Joe ! LoL
Sorry for that! 😂
👍
Thanks John!
I like to turn the pump to we’re the dogs are top and bottom so I can get the converter lined up easer with pump.
Yes sir. Gotta be careful with the seal and front pump bushing. Thanks for sharing!
Narrow pump bushing on a 19 spline also
Thanks for sharing! I know my transmission builder used a later stock pan to be able to use a larger filter. That was the first I had heard of that.
Do you have a video on getting the spacing right between the converter and transmission when bolting to flex plate?
No sir. I’ve had the process explained to me by my transmission man, but I’ve never tried to explain it in a video. The b and M flexplates I’ve bought we’re always spot on.
How much fluid is approximately needed when replacing the converter with the trans still installed and the engine removed. Mopar 727… thanks in advance.
I like to pour a quart in the converter or as much as it will hold, then crank it and check
I am swapping a 360 into my dodge d250 which was a 318, can I use my 318 torque converter on said 360 and just knock the weight off the 360 converter and tack it on my 318 converter? The transmission behind the 360 lost reverse so I’m afraid to use it’s converter 😂 I can’t find anything where anyone has shown that you can but it seems pretty simple to do if it’s ok to do so
Short answer, yes sir. Long answer, be sure it’s it’s in the exact orientation as it was on the old converter. There’s two ways to determine that. 1. The majority of Mopar cranks have 6 bolts, and they have a different offset to them. You can simply track where the weight is in relation to those holes.
2. Mopar flexplates have offset holes. Figure out which offset holes the weight is between and weld it on the front of the 318 converter. You’ll be good to go. The easier way is to but the b and m flexplate that has the wing cut out in it. It does cost money, but does the same thing.
I think they make an alignment tool so it slips right on.
Never heard of that one, but it’s quite possible. Thanks for watching
you can line up the pump gears and save yourself some time.
Absolutely
3 click s is what i was told
I look for the 1 1/4” on the bottom now. Distance from the gear to the edge of the housing. Thanks brother
@@JustMoparJoe , i think i was lucky each time, the converter must have been a design . but the final measurement like you show. is best too
Hey Joe, what do you think about Speedmaster heads, good investment or Chinese junk ?
Thanks MP. I have a friend who has ran them and really likes them. I think the key is to get them built up by a good shop. If I was to get them, I would probably go with bare castings and get them built for my application. Check out 318willrun. He has ran some and unboxed them in a few videos.