been using old oil since '93.. in all my saws... i have 10... and they work hard... never a problem... it's filtered thru industrial felt.. bar flipped regularly and oiler on full, one tank oil to one tank fuel...my first chainsaw bar is still in the shed and is good to be used when i need it... bar oil is a waste of money.
Europoor here. In soviet times, forest workers used old tractor transmission oil, which was boiled in a barrel on fire and skimmed off the top to free it of metal particles. If I'm not mistaken, the oil was tep15 and was very viscos, but since boss Karl Schwab doesn't allow it, and you can get a hefty fine for it, people now buy biodegradable chaisaw bar oil.
Been using filtered used motor oil for 27 years. No problem. Bar getting too hot has more to do with cutting with a dull chain. I have bought one new bar apart from a saw in 27 years and that's because I bent it.
RAPESEED OIL. I have one electric chainsaw (14" or so) with overenthusiastic oil pump, so whenever I'm using this one (occasionally only, when cutting things "within the range of extension cord") I always pour rapeseed oil into the thank. Cheap (three times as cheap as regular "bio" chain oil), 100% biodegradable, and does its job. Also, I learned this trick from folks who use chainsaws much often than myself, and if they don't see any detrimental side effects then it's probably OK. (I do not see any either, but as I said, I use this saw only occasionally.) The only downside is that since vegetable oils harden when exposed to air for prolonged period of time the system has to be flushed with "proper" chain oil whenever the saw goes into storage - which again is pretty simple task. Pour out whatever rapeseed oil remains in the tank, pour some of the proper oil into it, run the chain for couple of seconds until you see that new, darker oil splashing from the tip of the bar, and you're done.
Most electric chainsaws I've come across, the chain doesn't spin as fast compared to a petrol saw, so there is less flung off the end and allows the chain to be lubed. That bit of chain lube helps the waste oil stick to the bar also. It may be OK for occasional use, but constant work requires a proper chain lube.
Oh c'mon! I've been using used crankcase oil for bar oil for about 30 years! If it's good enough to circulate around in my car engine, it's good enough for a one time use on a chain saw chain!
@@bobbygetsbanned6049 Sure I can listen to a four minute video to overturn 30 years of experience? Sure bar oil might be a little bit better, but it's not free like waste oil. And I'm still using the same bar on the saw I bought in 1996. 5 -6 cords a year. Now top that.
been using old oil since '93.. in all my saws... i have 10... and they work hard... never a problem... it's filtered thru industrial felt.. bar flipped regularly and oiler on full, one tank oil to one tank fuel...my first chainsaw bar is still in the shed and is good to be used when i need it... bar oil is a waste of money.
same here , i dont even filter it , been using it since the 70s and cant really remember ever having any bar issues ,
I cant aguee more, i only use old motor oil, never had any problem
Europoor here. In soviet times, forest workers used old tractor transmission oil, which was boiled in a barrel on fire and skimmed off the top to free it of metal particles. If I'm not mistaken, the oil was tep15 and was very viscos, but since boss Karl Schwab doesn't allow it, and you can get a hefty fine for it, people now buy biodegradable chaisaw bar oil.
Been using filtered used motor oil for 27 years. No problem. Bar getting too hot has more to do with cutting with a dull chain. I have bought one new bar apart from a saw in 27 years and that's because I bent it.
RAPESEED OIL.
I have one electric chainsaw (14" or so) with overenthusiastic oil pump, so whenever I'm using this one (occasionally only, when cutting things "within the range of extension cord") I always pour rapeseed oil into the thank. Cheap (three times as cheap as regular "bio" chain oil), 100% biodegradable, and does its job. Also, I learned this trick from folks who use chainsaws much often than myself, and if they don't see any detrimental side effects then it's probably OK. (I do not see any either, but as I said, I use this saw only occasionally.)
The only downside is that since vegetable oils harden when exposed to air for prolonged period of time the system has to be flushed with "proper" chain oil whenever the saw goes into storage - which again is pretty simple task. Pour out whatever rapeseed oil remains in the tank, pour some of the proper oil into it, run the chain for couple of seconds until you see that new, darker oil splashing from the tip of the bar, and you're done.
Buddy should have regularly turned the bar over which could help but keep you chain sharp and that helps as well
I'm mixing 50/50 chain oil with waste motor oil for my small battery 8 inch chainsaw... works great!
Most electric chainsaws I've come across, the chain doesn't spin as fast compared to a petrol saw, so there is less flung off the end and allows the chain to be lubed. That bit of chain lube helps the waste oil stick to the bar also.
It may be OK for occasional use, but constant work requires a proper chain lube.
Oh c'mon! I've been using used crankcase oil for bar oil for about 30 years! If it's good enough to circulate around in my car engine, it's good enough for a one time use on a chain saw chain!
Your listening skills aren't very good.
@@bobbygetsbanned6049 Sure I can listen to a four minute video to overturn 30 years of experience? Sure bar oil might be a little bit better, but it's not free like waste oil. And I'm still using the same bar on the saw I bought in 1996. 5 -6 cords a year. Now top that.
@@andrewhanson5942 this guys just a shill for big bar and chain oil.
@@bobbygetsbanned6049 your lacking common sense
You got that right
your customer ran that chainsaw without any bar oil in it. thats why the bar is blue. not because of using used engine oil