8:55 An additional tip for lower input lag and minimal (if any at all) screen tearing: 1. Go to AMD Adrenalin > Gaming > Graphics > set Wait for Vertical Refresh to Always on 2. Click Advanced, enable Frame rate target control, and set Max FPS to 117. What this does is cap the global FPS limit for the device to 117, meaning you'll always stay in FreeSync (I'm forgetting the FPS floor for FreeSync right now, it's about 40ish FPS right?). 3 frames below the max refresh rate is the conventional wisdom for the setting.
Hands down best video to watch starting off. I got wayy better performance off of most of these tips. The biggest one was the 900p update. Man, I'm getting 45-60 FPS in Starfield and over 50 avg on Jedi Survivor. Thank you for this video man!
Great video! Thanks for taking onboard feedback from the community. There are so many different settings worth taking into account. This does a nice job of giving an overall summary and with the links provided to other videos will make our lives a lot easier!
Dude thank you and to helping the community, you’re words are true and I didn’t know about the option to go 900 it’s like a game changer but hell yeah everyday it just gets better and better. ROG ALLY
When playing Diablo 4 the game was almost unplayable with 120Hz turned on. I had to switch to 60hz to stop the screen from freezing while navigating through the in game menus. The game would also freeze from 5-30 seconds every time I opened up the character interface or talked to a NPC that caused a UI to automatically pop up.
Thanks for the awesome tips (as usual) Two questions come to mind: 1) CPU Boost: Do you recommend we disable even when plugged in at 25W mode? 2) Battery Health: Do you recommend we keep it at 80% the whole time, or only if we mostly game while connected to a power source? Thanks!
I recommend keeping CPU Boost off, unless you're doing emulation or there is a certain game you play that would need it (which is rare). The reason is you'll get lower fan noise, watts, temps. Especially if you cap the FPS at all. If you use something like G-Helper then it doesn't matter as much. I personally keep mine at 80% all the time so it's not constantly topping up to 100%, however, the battery will probably be pretty cheap to replace and it's easy to replace. So it's not as much of a worry as it would be in something like a tablet where you can't replace the battery. Having it always go up to 100% just starts wearing out the battery earlier then it normally would. So if you're planning on going somewhere you can toggle that instant charge. However, if you do a lot of handheld gaming, then I say run it to 100% so you get that extra battery life, then if you ever need to you can replace the battery :)
Any idea why pixel format isnt showing up on my adrenalin display options? Pretty sure everything is up to date. Curious if anyone else has that issue.
This will only show up if the system is connected to an external display. Also it won't work if it's "Duplicated", it'll need to be just the external display that is on.
Amazing vid as usual! Very helpful for new and old users. Always learn something:) Say are you planning on a advantages of freesync vid? With competition looming there's been a lot of debate about it and would like to know your opinion!
Thank you :). That's a good idea, freesync is a really big deal on displays. Which is why I wouldn't personally buy a device that doesn't have it. I think the Legion Go is probably one of the bigger ones coming out, but they chose a 2560x1600 resolution. That is way too high and there won't be hardly anything that can run at native resolution on it. Plus not having freesync is going to be brutal as people will probably want that increased clarity on the bigger display.
@@filt3rless yeah I feel the same, I can see irl the advantages but most don't know what I'm talking about as they never experienced it. It's weird having to say "trust me bro" haha
maybe you can make some video about VRR 😁 and how we can make a change on VRR range for ROG Ally, currently the default range is between 48-120 , using CRU we can make it even low to 1 @@filt3rless
Thanks! I had an issue where the USB-C would only detect if plugged in a certain way: ruclips.net/video/62zmMcJqJUA/видео.html This turned out to be an issue with the USB-C reader itself on the Ally.
Great vid ! Quick one can you summarise why you dont levrage 30watt when docked as a profile in g-helper ? Also do you have any tips re xg mobile and any settings / configs to support a positive experience with temps and performance ?
Thanks! I use 25 watts because there isn't much performance gain for the extra 5 watts. And I prefer a quieter/cooler running system. I use a program called G-Helper as well so even going slightly lower than 25 watts will start reducing fan noise (more than Armoury Crate in manual mode). I can't comment too much on XG Mobile as I don't have one.
Would you still recommend using 5gb of vram on the non-extreme ally? Since I’m running lower graphic presets I don’t think I would need that extra vram, right?
This guy gets it! You’re always spot on unlike most people I’ve seen lol. 5gb vram is definitely the sweet spot not 6 since most games use a little over 10gb of system ram. 1366x768 looks really good too. Now overclock your screen to 175mhz lol. Honestly my best tip is delete everything asus, disable ac and my asus in the bios, and stop all asus services with ghelper. Asus software is the main cause of all problems just run a ghelper, hc, playnite setup
Thanks! :). I usually do run all Asus services disabled. The only thing I found Asus useful for is global control calibration. For some reason, some games will bypass windows control calibration, and steam bypasses it as well. So with Asus it's doing a hardware or driver level override where it changes everything that sees the controls to the proper value. I agree, G-Helper is more than enough and the system is great with 0 Asus software 👍
YES!!! This is my exact setup. I disable all things asus and AC. I run ghelper with a profile for every single watt from 9w up so i can pick the exact watt per game down to 1 watt that runs best for each title by just clicking the button on the left a few times to cycle through each watt selection. I also run playnite at startup in fullscreen mode so its just like the build in game chooser but waaaaaaay better. PLAYNITE IS EVERYTHING!!!!! what is hc?
@@filt3rlesswhat is that? Is it for the controller and if so does it reintroduce the stick and trigger deadzone problems or is that just ac messing those up? The only thing asus i have running on mine are the services for screen manager and hot plug controller because ghelper doesn’t disable them and idk what they are but they sound important lol so I haven’t tried turning them off yet
@@z06timhandheld companion I use it for the controller and it has a quick access menu like command center that you can map to the same button as ghelper so they open and close together then you have the command center button left to map to something else, I mapped it to playnite in ghelper for a while but ended up switching and mapping it to change from desktop to gamepad mode for the controller in hc. Hc has a lot of cool features and gyro support but is a little bit buggy with some steam and Xbox games because it will give you double inputs so you have to click hide controller in hc sometimes. So unless you want or need all the extra features hc offers might be better sticking to whatever controller app you are using
Awesome video, definitely learned a few things. My AMD control panel is slightly different though and I couldn't change the RGB mode, any ideas there? Thanks again
Thank you! For the RGB, it's only if your system is docked to an external display. So if you're playing in handheld it's not going to show up, but as soon as you dock it, it should be there :)
Hey Filterless been using your settings for everything on my Ally and dude its amazing thank you so much for your good work man seriously. I do have a question though, in a previous video about “power modes and disabling cpu boost” i saw that you had disabled cpu you boost for all your power profiles but in this video using ghelper i see that under the turbo setting that you have the cpu boost set to “aggressive”. Should it be turned back on? Is there any benefit to having it on now?
Hey, thanks a bunch man! I sometimes switch it on/off depending on what I'm doing. Most of the times I run benchmarks I turn it back on (since most people are using default settings). However, there isn't much improvement in games. The games will usually load slightly faster and the system can feel a little more responsive for everyday tasks. If you are using a program called "G-Helper" then that helps with keeping the boost down when it doesn't need it, because it'll force windows "Power mode" into "Balanced", this is separate from the power options I'm showing where I change boost on/off. What happens is Armoury Crate is forcing windows into a "Best performance" mode causing the CPU to always boost and use more watts. And even when changing it to balanced, AC will override it next time the profiles are switched. So if you're in Performance in AC and change windows power mode to Balanced, next time you toggle to Turbo and then back to Performance it'll reset it. Hope the info helps!
@@filt3rlessAh I see, that makes sense. I’ll keep mine off for now since like you said it doesn’t really make a difference in game and it keeps temps down. Once again thank you so much for everything. Your channel has been a godsend for new folks like myself that just bought the Ally. Keep the great content coming.
have you ever tried using the xbox controller as a mouse in desktop mode? I use it when docked (and I have a profile hot key to change to controller buttons when the game loads up) but the cursor will disappear randomly, and I need to move the mouse to bring the cursor back (then the controller works fine as a mouse again) Any idea why that is?
The only method I found that works well in desktop mode is if you have the Microsoft Xbox Adapter connected. When using bluetooth I ran into a few issues. I have a video on the docked setup here where I go over how I use the controller with Steam. However, I currently use a program called ReWASD to combine both the ally controller and external so I can have them both function in a certain way. The program is pretty in-depth for setting up though and I don't have a tutorial out yet.
I don't have the Full vs Limited Color options on mine. Do I have to enable something beforehand? I have everything updated from Windows, Armory Crate and MyAsus
Hey, color depth is only something you'll have if plugged into an external monitor. If it's still not there, I wouldn't worry about it too much unless the picture looks off.
Right click on the taskbar and select "Taskbar settings". Then you'll see where you can click the drop down to hide the search, turn off task view, widgets and chat. Hope that helps :)
Hey, I'd recommend doing a manual install again to see if it fixes it. Here I show how to roll back (which you probably used) but wanted to show you just in-case. This will work for the new 6002 driver as well as the 4001: ruclips.net/video/-UPfsmZxLss/видео.html
I created a video that shows how to roll back the driver, but just installing the new one again will also work. Here is a link you can follow, this will re-install the driver and AMD Control panel which should fix it: ruclips.net/video/oQ08ZPILZrY/видео.html
I downloaded the 900p registry and run then restart the ally for multiple times already and it still doesn’t show up in display setting, what should i do?
Hey, some Allys are using a slightly different folder. See if this one works as this usually fixes it for the few where the normal file doesn't: drive.google.com/file/d/15T4b7Unbtbgtdc5vLStXUiXUwChZ2tpr/view?usp=sharing
I Play starfield at the Moment with the Ultra Mod from Nexusmods. The Temperatur goes over 90 degree. So i Made a custom Fan Curve to make the device cooler. But i don't know if its Bad for the device, If the fan's Run with 100%. Do you have any advices for that?
What I'd recommend is making sure all 3 sliders are set to the same level. And I'd do 25 watts for all 3 sliders. Then it will lock the watts to 25 and stop it from boosting really high. Also you can use the default level 3 fan profile, no need to do 100% if you're using 25 watts for all 3 sliders. You'll get great temps at that wattage :)
Yes, I think the latest updates work well :). The new BIOS isn't out yet, but is coming out on the 12th. I'll be looking into it once it comes out to see if there are any improvements.
Hi do you have any experience by Disable Memory Integrity/Core Isolation to boost gaming performance on the Ally? I mean, I know it works, but how much and most importantly, is it save? Don’t wanna brick my Ally😊
Hey, yes I have it disabled on my system. In most games there isn't a difference, however, there can be a difference in some games. One of the games it makes a huge difference in on my Laptop is Star Citizen. On the Ally I don't think it's as important to disable for performance. Also the system is less secure and more vulnerable with it off. I can't really so to do it or not as I haven't tested it in-depth specifically on the Ally, but I do run it off on my systems. I'll have to test this out more in the future and possibly do a video on it :)
I had to exchange mine for the same reason. I think it's so common that I'd just keep mine if it happens on the new one. It's unfortunate they designed it like this where they are prone to failing.
Hey, yes that's correct. So if you're running in 60Hz, and let's say you're getting 50FPS in the game, the display will still be running at 60Hz, and you'll see tearing. So with 120Hz, the display will actually match that 50FPS and be running at 50Hz (which is why the Ally is such an awesome device). The battery difference is so minimal (almost impossible to see when gaming), that I'd always run 120Hz when gaming. And you're technically saving battery if under 60FPS as the display can go lower than 60Hz, however, it's unnoticeable. Hope the info helps :)
@@filt3rless I'm not sure ! The VRR only work between 48 and 60 when you are in 60Hz and 48 and 120 when you are in 120 Hz. That's what "AMD Software" says
@@elricklef1149 The thing with the Ally is it also has LFC (low framerate compensation) so it can go do 30FPS, but does it by doubling the refresh rate after it gets below 48. During my tests 60Hz is a pretty bad experience, I haven't locked the FPS in that exact 48-60Hz to test only that, as most games will vary a lot more and go between that specific range frequently. Let's say it does work between 48-60Hz, I'm not sure there is any benefit to running 60Hz even in that specific situation as 120Hz mode will also match that FPS and then you have freedom for it to fluctuate. It more comes down to there really isn't any reason to run 60Hz at all while gaming from my testing. With it off you can go from 30Hz to 120Hz and don't need V-Sync (reducing latency), and you don't have to worry about trying to hold such a specific frame rate.
the CPU benchmark you use we all know its bullshit. the ultra mod gives you tons of FPS even if the boost is on (like my case). you should use original ultra preset
As FPS increases that is where a CPU bottleneck will be more apparent. Also I have run the default settings, the game runs like trash (even on a much more powerful G15 laptop). Feel free to upload a video with your results, I don't even need any benchmark stats, just make sure the Asus monitor is in view on both.
I usually do run with AC disabled. However the trigger calibration needs to be done in AC. I found in Windows calibration some games will ignore it, even steam/gamepad tester will ignore windows. AC is changing at a hardware/driver level so everything else will see the proper calibration on the triggers. If I didn't have deadzones with the triggers, I'd completely remove AC most likely. However a lot of people enjoy AC and like having the command center. So I wanted to make sure and include tips on it :)
I bet you anything Filterless has debloated on his actual rig. It would be confusing for new users to see an already debloated Ally used in his tutorial. Much easier to to share tips with an ally that is similar and familiar to people that need these tips.
@@filt3rless gotcha, I can't have AC on my computer, it really messes with the xg mobile. Personally haven't had any issues with my triggers needing calibration. Iv removed my Asus and AC completely. Bout the only thing I think was easier was changing v ram. But it's simple enough without.
8:55 An additional tip for lower input lag and minimal (if any at all) screen tearing:
1. Go to AMD Adrenalin > Gaming > Graphics > set Wait for Vertical Refresh to Always on
2. Click Advanced, enable Frame rate target control, and set Max FPS to 117.
What this does is cap the global FPS limit for the device to 117, meaning you'll always stay in FreeSync (I'm forgetting the FPS floor for FreeSync right now, it's about 40ish FPS right?). 3 frames below the max refresh rate is the conventional wisdom for the setting.
Hands down best video to watch starting off. I got wayy better performance off of most of these tips. The biggest one was the 900p update. Man, I'm getting 45-60 FPS in Starfield and over 50 avg on Jedi Survivor. Thank you for this video man!
Great video! Thanks for taking onboard feedback from the community. There are so many different settings worth taking into account. This does a nice job of giving an overall summary and with the links provided to other videos will make our lives a lot easier!
I learned about 3 new things from this video! Thank you!
Thanks! Glad the video helped :)
Really nice compilation. Bookmarked it if i have to look something up in case i forget certain settings ;)
Thanks! And let me know if you have any questions about anything :)
Great video as usual! I am pretty new to making changes and your videos are very helpful. Thanks!
I don’t habe the processor performance boost setting on my ally?? Can’t turn this one off for some reason because it’s not there in the settings
Great all round video pulling everything together!
Dude thank you and to helping the community, you’re words are true and I didn’t know about the option to go 900 it’s like a game changer but hell yeah everyday it just gets better and better. ROG ALLY
When playing Diablo 4 the game was almost unplayable with 120Hz turned on.
I had to switch to 60hz to stop the screen from freezing while navigating through the in game menus.
The game would also freeze from 5-30 seconds every time I opened up the character interface or talked to a NPC that caused a UI to automatically pop up.
Thanks for the awesome tips (as usual)
Two questions come to mind:
1) CPU Boost: Do you recommend we disable even when plugged in at 25W mode?
2) Battery Health: Do you recommend we keep it at 80% the whole time, or only if we mostly game while connected to a power source?
Thanks!
I recommend keeping CPU Boost off, unless you're doing emulation or there is a certain game you play that would need it (which is rare). The reason is you'll get lower fan noise, watts, temps. Especially if you cap the FPS at all. If you use something like G-Helper then it doesn't matter as much.
I personally keep mine at 80% all the time so it's not constantly topping up to 100%, however, the battery will probably be pretty cheap to replace and it's easy to replace. So it's not as much of a worry as it would be in something like a tablet where you can't replace the battery.
Having it always go up to 100% just starts wearing out the battery earlier then it normally would. So if you're planning on going somewhere you can toggle that instant charge. However, if you do a lot of handheld gaming, then I say run it to 100% so you get that extra battery life, then if you ever need to you can replace the battery :)
@@filt3rless makes sense brah, thank you loads! 😎
@@filt3rlessi don’t have the cpu setting sadly in my power options
@@FreshPanda97same is there anyway too get it!?
You should be using in-game FSR for games like Starfield & Cyberpunk 2077 which support it.
Use RSR for games like Madden 24 which don’t.
Any idea why pixel format isnt showing up on my adrenalin display options? Pretty sure everything is up to date. Curious if anyone else has that issue.
Will you be making a video on MK1?
There’s a lot of interesting results when playing with graphic settings. Especially with denuvo
Great summary of your content.
I don't have the options pixel format. It doesn't exist. And yes, I have everything up to date
Are you docked?
This will only show up if the system is connected to an external display. Also it won't work if it's "Duplicated", it'll need to be just the external display that is on.
Amazing vid as usual! Very helpful for new and old users. Always learn something:) Say are you planning on a advantages of freesync vid? With competition looming there's been a lot of debate about it and would like to know your opinion!
Thank you :). That's a good idea, freesync is a really big deal on displays. Which is why I wouldn't personally buy a device that doesn't have it.
I think the Legion Go is probably one of the bigger ones coming out, but they chose a 2560x1600 resolution. That is way too high and there won't be hardly anything that can run at native resolution on it. Plus not having freesync is going to be brutal as people will probably want that increased clarity on the bigger display.
@@filt3rless yeah I feel the same, I can see irl the advantages but most don't know what I'm talking about as they never experienced it. It's weird having to say "trust me bro" haha
@@Droideka666 People don't like to believe it till they see it🤣. Hopefully they listen to you because VRR is a big deal.
maybe you can make some video about VRR 😁 and how we can make a change on VRR range for ROG Ally, currently the default range is between 48-120 , using CRU we can make it even low to 1 @@filt3rless
Thx so much to do this kind of video !! 😊
Amazing!!! Thank you very much!!!
Thank you for some great tips
This help so much mate tq👍🏻
Keep up the great work!
Great work , I truly appreciate the tips. Anyone else having usb not detected issue on the ally?
Thanks! I had an issue where the USB-C would only detect if plugged in a certain way: ruclips.net/video/62zmMcJqJUA/видео.html
This turned out to be an issue with the USB-C reader itself on the Ally.
i wanted to followup :Had the whole motherboard replaced by geek squad@@filt3rless
it was just a defective usb c port . I don't know how it happened. 3rd ally and love it
Great vid ! Quick one can you summarise why you dont levrage 30watt when docked as a profile in g-helper ? Also do you have any tips re xg mobile and any settings / configs to support a positive experience with temps and performance ?
Thanks! I use 25 watts because there isn't much performance gain for the extra 5 watts. And I prefer a quieter/cooler running system. I use a program called G-Helper as well so even going slightly lower than 25 watts will start reducing fan noise (more than Armoury Crate in manual mode). I can't comment too much on XG Mobile as I don't have one.
In Diablo 4, for me at least, cpu boost off caused lag and stuttering when using the horse. 😢
Good stuff. Thank you! Subbed.
Excellent video!
Would you still recommend using 5gb of vram on the non-extreme ally? Since I’m running lower graphic presets I don’t think I would need that extra vram, right?
I still recommend and use 5GB. I've been wanting to do an updated comparison since the latest BIOS update to see if things have changed.
This guy gets it! You’re always spot on unlike most people I’ve seen lol. 5gb vram is definitely the sweet spot not 6 since most games use a little over 10gb of system ram. 1366x768 looks really good too. Now overclock your screen to 175mhz lol.
Honestly my best tip is delete everything asus, disable ac and my asus in the bios, and stop all asus services with ghelper. Asus software is the main cause of all problems just run a ghelper, hc, playnite setup
Thanks! :). I usually do run all Asus services disabled. The only thing I found Asus useful for is global control calibration. For some reason, some games will bypass windows control calibration, and steam bypasses it as well. So with Asus it's doing a hardware or driver level override where it changes everything that sees the controls to the proper value.
I agree, G-Helper is more than enough and the system is great with 0 Asus software 👍
YES!!! This is my exact setup. I disable all things asus and AC. I run ghelper with a profile for every single watt from 9w up so i can pick the exact watt per game down to 1 watt that runs best for each title by just clicking the button on the left a few times to cycle through each watt selection. I also run playnite at startup in fullscreen mode so its just like the build in game chooser but waaaaaaay better. PLAYNITE IS EVERYTHING!!!!! what is hc?
@@filt3rlesswhat is that? Is it for the controller and if so does it reintroduce the stick and trigger deadzone problems or is that just ac messing those up?
The only thing asus i have running on mine are the services for screen manager and hot plug controller because ghelper doesn’t disable them and idk what they are but they sound important lol so I haven’t tried turning them off yet
@@z06timhandheld companion I use it for the controller and it has a quick access menu like command center that you can map to the same button as ghelper so they open and close together then you have the command center button left to map to something else, I mapped it to playnite in ghelper for a while but ended up switching and mapping it to change from desktop to gamepad mode for the controller in hc. Hc has a lot of cool features and gyro support but is a little bit buggy with some steam and Xbox games because it will give you double inputs so you have to click hide controller in hc sometimes. So unless you want or need all the extra features hc offers might be better sticking to whatever controller app you are using
Awesome video, definitely learned a few things. My AMD control panel is slightly different though and I couldn't change the RGB mode, any ideas there? Thanks again
Thank you! For the RGB, it's only if your system is docked to an external display. So if you're playing in handheld it's not going to show up, but as soon as you dock it, it should be there :)
@@filt3rless Thank you
Great video, will sub for more ally content thanks!
Hi ! Do you know why my rog dont charge with a 100w charger in turbo mod but charge with a 65w Asus charger in turbo mod on a jsaux deck ?
Great video, Thx.
I dont have OVERLAY menu into AMD settings, only tracking
pixel format is missing im on latest driver
Noticed this too
Me too how the solution?
Hey Filterless been using your settings for everything on my Ally and dude its amazing thank you so much for your good work man seriously. I do have a question though, in a previous video about “power modes and disabling cpu boost” i saw that you had disabled cpu you boost for all your power profiles but in this video using ghelper i see that under the turbo setting that you have the cpu boost set to “aggressive”. Should it be turned back on? Is there any benefit to having it on now?
Hey, thanks a bunch man! I sometimes switch it on/off depending on what I'm doing. Most of the times I run benchmarks I turn it back on (since most people are using default settings). However, there isn't much improvement in games. The games will usually load slightly faster and the system can feel a little more responsive for everyday tasks.
If you are using a program called "G-Helper" then that helps with keeping the boost down when it doesn't need it, because it'll force windows "Power mode" into "Balanced", this is separate from the power options I'm showing where I change boost on/off.
What happens is Armoury Crate is forcing windows into a "Best performance" mode causing the CPU to always boost and use more watts. And even when changing it to balanced, AC will override it next time the profiles are switched. So if you're in Performance in AC and change windows power mode to Balanced, next time you toggle to Turbo and then back to Performance it'll reset it. Hope the info helps!
@@filt3rlessAh I see, that makes sense. I’ll keep mine off for now since like you said it doesn’t really make a difference in game and it keeps temps down. Once again thank you so much for everything. Your channel has been a godsend for new folks like myself that just bought the Ally. Keep the great content coming.
have you ever tried using the xbox controller as a mouse in desktop mode? I use it when docked (and I have a profile hot key to change to controller buttons when the game loads up) but the cursor will disappear randomly, and I need to move the mouse to bring the cursor back (then the controller works fine as a mouse again) Any idea why that is?
The only method I found that works well in desktop mode is if you have the Microsoft Xbox Adapter connected. When using bluetooth I ran into a few issues. I have a video on the docked setup here where I go over how I use the controller with Steam.
However, I currently use a program called ReWASD to combine both the ally controller and external so I can have them both function in a certain way. The program is pretty in-depth for setting up though and I don't have a tutorial out yet.
I dont have the same resolution as you and can only choose between 1080 and 720, no 900
Hey, I have a video here about how you can get 900p: ruclips.net/video/HuMr8_BXSVA/видео.html
I don't have the Full vs Limited Color options on mine. Do I have to enable something beforehand?
I have everything updated from Windows, Armory Crate and MyAsus
Hey, it's only on there if you're connected to an external monitor.
@@filt3rless Makes sense thank you for the reply
Hey man,
Thanks for the video but I don't have the Color Depth option in my AMD Driver. Everything is up to date! What should I do?
Hey, color depth is only something you'll have if plugged into an external monitor. If it's still not there, I wouldn't worry about it too much unless the picture looks off.
How do you clean up your bottom bar. It wont let me get rid of microsoft apps on there
Right click on the taskbar and select "Taskbar settings". Then you'll see where you can click the drop down to hide the search, turn off task view, widgets and chat. Hope that helps :)
@@filt3rless thank you!!
Great vid! After doing the manual install of the recent AMD driver, AMD Adrebaline no longer works properly. Any suggestions? Thanks!
Hey, I'd recommend doing a manual install again to see if it fixes it. Here I show how to roll back (which you probably used) but wanted to show you just in-case. This will work for the new 6002 driver as well as the 4001: ruclips.net/video/-UPfsmZxLss/видео.html
@@filt3rless thanks a lot!
I went to use the AMD Overlay but it’s not there. It just has Tracking but no Overlay tab. Any tips?
I created a video that shows how to roll back the driver, but just installing the new one again will also work. Here is a link you can follow, this will re-install the driver and AMD Control panel which should fix it: ruclips.net/video/oQ08ZPILZrY/видео.html
Hey @Filterless, do you recommend anti lag on or off? Thanks
I personally leave It off. I don't see any harm in leaving It on, but, you might run into a game that stutters because of it.
I downloaded the 900p registry and run then restart the ally for multiple times already and it still doesn’t show up in display setting, what should i do?
Hey, some Allys are using a slightly different folder. See if this one works as this usually fixes it for the few where the normal file doesn't: drive.google.com/file/d/15T4b7Unbtbgtdc5vLStXUiXUwChZ2tpr/view?usp=sharing
@@filt3rless thank you so much
I Play starfield at the Moment with the Ultra Mod from Nexusmods. The Temperatur goes over 90 degree. So i Made a custom Fan Curve to make the device cooler. But i don't know if its Bad for the device, If the fan's Run with 100%. Do you have any advices for that?
What I'd recommend is making sure all 3 sliders are set to the same level. And I'd do 25 watts for all 3 sliders. Then it will lock the watts to 25 and stop it from boosting really high. Also you can use the default level 3 fan profile, no need to do 100% if you're using 25 watts for all 3 sliders. You'll get great temps at that wattage :)
Do recommend for US to update to the latest firmware and, bios?
Yes, I think the latest updates work well :). The new BIOS isn't out yet, but is coming out on the 12th. I'll be looking into it once it comes out to see if there are any improvements.
Hi do you have any experience by Disable Memory Integrity/Core Isolation to boost gaming performance on the Ally? I mean, I know it works, but how much and most importantly, is it save? Don’t wanna brick my Ally😊
Hey, yes I have it disabled on my system. In most games there isn't a difference, however, there can be a difference in some games. One of the games it makes a huge difference in on my Laptop is Star Citizen.
On the Ally I don't think it's as important to disable for performance. Also the system is less secure and more vulnerable with it off. I can't really so to do it or not as I haven't tested it in-depth specifically on the Ally, but I do run it off on my systems.
I'll have to test this out more in the future and possibly do a video on it :)
@@filt3rless thanks for the fast response as always. That would be awesome with a video someday. Thank you 😊
Nice one! I just posted a guide on an even better mod setup which'll get you close to 50fps even in the city!
Nice! I'll have to check it out soon as that is crazy good performance :)
I don't see any color depth option in display setting. Also my monitor name is different from yours.
Same, missing this color depth :)
Hey, found out, he's using elgato to streaming it. By default, monitor of Ally just supports 8-bit color, you can double check in gsmarena btw
It will depend on the external display that is connected. If you're not seeing it, then most likely it cannot be changed on the display you're using.
don't have the pixel format option, how to enable it?
It works just with an external display.
@@chaosheadtheanna1413 Thanks! I don't have an external display connected to my Ally and I was pulling my hair out trying to find this option. ;)
@@peterc4082 you're welcome :)
unlucky i had to send mine in for the SD card issues
I had to exchange mine for the same reason. I think it's so common that I'd just keep mine if it happens on the new one. It's unfortunate they designed it like this where they are prone to failing.
You say that VRR only works in 120fps mode ? Not in 60fps ?
Hey, yes that's correct. So if you're running in 60Hz, and let's say you're getting 50FPS in the game, the display will still be running at 60Hz, and you'll see tearing. So with 120Hz, the display will actually match that 50FPS and be running at 50Hz (which is why the Ally is such an awesome device). The battery difference is so minimal (almost impossible to see when gaming), that I'd always run 120Hz when gaming. And you're technically saving battery if under 60FPS as the display can go lower than 60Hz, however, it's unnoticeable. Hope the info helps :)
@@filt3rless I'm not sure ! The VRR only work between 48 and 60 when you are in 60Hz and 48 and 120 when you are in 120 Hz.
That's what "AMD Software" says
@@elricklef1149 The thing with the Ally is it also has LFC (low framerate compensation) so it can go do 30FPS, but does it by doubling the refresh rate after it gets below 48.
During my tests 60Hz is a pretty bad experience, I haven't locked the FPS in that exact 48-60Hz to test only that, as most games will vary a lot more and go between that specific range frequently. Let's say it does work between 48-60Hz, I'm not sure there is any benefit to running 60Hz even in that specific situation as 120Hz mode will also match that FPS and then you have freedom for it to fluctuate.
It more comes down to there really isn't any reason to run 60Hz at all while gaming from my testing. With it off you can go from 30Hz to 120Hz and don't need V-Sync (reducing latency), and you don't have to worry about trying to hold such a specific frame rate.
@filt3rless
So keep vsync off in games? Thanks
@@mosthated8848 Yes, I keep V-Sync off in games.
the CPU benchmark you use we all know its bullshit. the ultra mod gives you tons of FPS even if the boost is on (like my case). you should use original ultra preset
As FPS increases that is where a CPU bottleneck will be more apparent. Also I have run the default settings, the game runs like trash (even on a much more powerful G15 laptop).
Feel free to upload a video with your results, I don't even need any benchmark stats, just make sure the Asus monitor is in view on both.
why havnt you just deleted armory crate? looks like you need to debloat as well. Get rid of teams.
I usually do run with AC disabled. However the trigger calibration needs to be done in AC. I found in Windows calibration some games will ignore it, even steam/gamepad tester will ignore windows. AC is changing at a hardware/driver level so everything else will see the proper calibration on the triggers.
If I didn't have deadzones with the triggers, I'd completely remove AC most likely. However a lot of people enjoy AC and like having the command center. So I wanted to make sure and include tips on it :)
I bet you anything Filterless has debloated on his actual rig. It would be confusing for new users to see an already debloated Ally used in his tutorial. Much easier to to share tips with an ally that is similar and familiar to people that need these tips.
@@filt3rless gotcha, I can't have AC on my computer, it really messes with the xg mobile. Personally haven't had any issues with my triggers needing calibration. Iv removed my Asus and AC completely. Bout the only thing I think was easier was changing v ram. But it's simple enough without.
How do you activate the xg mobile without armory crate ?
Great video