Thanks! I just completed desoldering PRX718XLF combo XLR socked from Input PCB. This works! Its anyway tricky a little bit and risky because many SMD elements are very very close the connector pins, but I succeeded. I knew this technique before, to heat all legs of any connector, but I would never try with XLR/jack combo (at PRX700 input PCB) if I hadn't seen this video. Thank you for showing this is possible and for hearten me :). Greetings from Lithuania.
Great tip thanks. I've started using this method after seeing you do this on an earlier repair. That said I just did a repair removing an PCB mounted octal socket using a powered solder sucker gun - fail!
Any particular copper wire you recommend? I've got an mpc2500 with a pot that needs removed and I am terrible at desoldering, so this might do the trick.
1mm or so diameter solid copper wire. The easiest source is to strip out the earth conductor an old piece of twin and earth lighting flex. Just make sure that you use a decent iron with a solid soldering bit.
@@StephenMcLeod Be patient. Let the heat flow. If you cant get it to flow using leaded 60/40 solder then you need a beefier tip or to borrow a better iron.
Unlikely. If there was a bad connection it would also sound strange rather than reproduce at a low volume. It could be something in the input electronics. They often get damaged when cables are connected. (Static ETC..)
On the mixer I’m referring to, I disassembled it, cleaned all of the pots, XLR jacks and 1/4” jacks. I also lubricated them. Unfortunately, it did not resolve the low output issue on one of the channels. Also, now the pots don’t feel as buttery, which is worse.
lol.. my friend boughs some TRD cables fron amason... and the tip came off in the XLR plug just like you said, i alway had told him DONT BUY SOMETHING CAUSE IS CHEAP but people now days... love to gamble... not his QCS has two challes with that problem. I was goi g try to use a screw to take those tips out but hes such a hard head. 🤷♂️
Im from California and have a pair of eon 510s that I'd like to have serviced, one works nice and the other isn't as reliable and just recently lost all output, the rear panel does show signal just no sound. Any advice?
If the amplifier has power and you don't have 2 blown drivers then you have likely have a blown op amp chip or the boost switch is broken. If the signal light works then the common input circuitry is working so it could be that the wiper contact has dropped off inside the the boost/cut switch. You can easily test the switch. Just touch the contacts on the boost boost switch at the back and if you hear a buzz from the speaker then likely the mechanism inside has switch has failed failed. Remove the switch and glue the wipe back on with epoxy such as JBweld or bypass the switch and run the speaker on flat. If not the switch then see the video on checking op amp chips in the mixer board, You can do it with a DVM. On these speakers, withe switch on boost, you can easily blow the HF driver with a microphone and a female vocalist.
@@razenby Thank you so much for your reply definitely gives me insight on what is going on, would you be so kind enough to direct me with a link to your video that your mentioning.
Yep a crappy design of socket or the plug, what ever. Watch the dog, it's feeling Ruff :-) Your customers are lucky that you are doing the job, some so called repairers muller the job. For a job like that, i would give the mother of a sucker a good clean and lube so it's great for about three mins lol. I could buy a sucker heat gun, but i don't do much now, a waste of money. It would have been magic in the days of Z80 cpu's with 40 pins and a delicate pcb, the evil of through plated holes :-(
Yh, if you are skilled with the mothersucker and have a good iron then it is no problem. The holes are tight and the pins kinked so for a novice it is time to wrench tracks and vias with a leaded soldering iron on an unleaded board. I know I have repaired many so called 'attempted repairs' wherethe PCB is damaged. What gets me is that repairers charge even if they cant fix it and often return it in a terrible state with components hooked up, sparrow shit soldering and often components missing that they have robbed for other customers boards. Just thrown back together expecting it to be binned by the customer. I operate a no repair then no charge basis as I don't take anything on that cant be repaired.
@@razenby When i used to repair a lot of electronics, i wasn't into ripping someone off. (the truth). My way was to repair it as cheap as possible and a couple of quid for the solder fund. If i could not repair it, i would hand it back in the same state it was originally in, no charge. In vcr's i often had to repair the mechanism, sometimes i would make a part for the hell of it. (i didn't charge for one of my bodges, and i told them what i had done) it often outlasted the rest of the vcr lol. I never have been a money man, helping someone that needed help was my way. I'm not daft, ok just a bit :-D i will never be rich, but good frendships are more important than cash. Dam don't i waffle.
Thanks! I just completed desoldering PRX718XLF combo XLR socked from Input PCB. This works! Its anyway tricky a little bit and risky because many SMD elements are very very close the connector pins, but I succeeded. I knew this technique before, to heat all legs of any connector, but I would never try with XLR/jack combo (at PRX700 input PCB) if I hadn't seen this video. Thank you for showing this is possible and for hearten me :). Greetings from Lithuania.
Excellent!Great to know it was useful. Thanks for watching.
Great tip thanks. I've started using this method after seeing you do this on an earlier repair. That said I just did a repair removing an PCB mounted octal socket using a powered solder sucker gun - fail!
No problem. There are more than one way to skin a rabbit..
Any particular copper wire you recommend? I've got an mpc2500 with a pot that needs removed and I am terrible at desoldering, so this might do the trick.
1mm or so diameter solid copper wire. The easiest source is to strip out the earth conductor an old piece of twin and earth lighting flex. Just make sure that you use a decent iron with a solid soldering bit.
@@razenby Thanks! My iron is alright - not the best, but I'll pick up a spade style tip for it. Thanks :)
@@StephenMcLeod good luck
@@razenby I'll need it!!
@@StephenMcLeod Be patient. Let the heat flow. If you cant get it to flow using leaded 60/40 solder then you need a beefier tip or to borrow a better iron.
What a brilliant idea. Thanks for posting this.
No worries! Please remember to like and subscribe.
Would low output be an indicator of a bad XLR input socket / receptacle? How would you test this?
Unlikely. If there was a bad connection it would also sound strange rather than reproduce at a low volume. It could be something in the input electronics. They often get damaged when cables are connected. (Static ETC..)
On the mixer I’m referring to, I disassembled it, cleaned all of the pots, XLR jacks and 1/4” jacks. I also lubricated them.
Unfortunately, it did not resolve the low output issue on one of the channels.
Also, now the pots don’t feel as buttery, which is worse.
lol.. my friend boughs some TRD cables fron amason... and the tip came off in the XLR plug just like you said, i alway had told him DONT BUY SOMETHING CAUSE IS CHEAP but people now days... love to gamble... not his QCS has two challes with that problem.
I was goi g try to use a screw to take those tips out but hes such a hard head. 🤷♂️
It happens a lot. It is amazing how many amps come in with a tip still in. Good luck with the repair and thanks for watching.
Im from California and have a pair of eon 510s that I'd like to have serviced, one works nice and the other isn't as reliable and just recently lost all output, the rear panel does show signal just no sound. Any advice?
If the amplifier has power and you don't have 2 blown drivers then you have likely have a blown op amp chip or the boost switch is broken. If the signal light works then the common input circuitry is working so it could be that the wiper contact has dropped off inside the the boost/cut switch. You can easily test the switch. Just touch the contacts on the boost boost switch at the back and if you hear a buzz from the speaker then likely the mechanism inside has switch has failed failed. Remove the switch and glue the wipe back on with epoxy such as JBweld or bypass the switch and run the speaker on flat. If not the switch then see the video on checking op amp chips in the mixer board, You can do it with a DVM. On these speakers, withe switch on boost, you can easily blow the HF driver with a microphone and a female vocalist.
@@razenby Thank you so much for your reply definitely gives me insight on what is going on, would you be so kind enough to direct me with a link to your video that your mentioning.
Yep a crappy design of socket or the plug, what ever.
Watch the dog, it's feeling Ruff :-)
Your customers are lucky that you are doing the job, some so called repairers muller the job.
For a job like that, i would give the mother of a sucker a good clean and lube so it's great for about three mins lol.
I could buy a sucker heat gun, but i don't do much now, a waste of money.
It would have been magic in the days of Z80 cpu's with 40 pins and a delicate pcb, the evil of through plated holes :-(
Yh, if you are skilled with the mothersucker and have a good iron then it is no problem. The holes are tight and the pins kinked so for a novice it is time to wrench tracks and vias with a leaded soldering iron on an unleaded board. I know I have repaired many so called 'attempted repairs' wherethe PCB is damaged. What gets me is that repairers charge even if they cant fix it and often return it in a terrible state with components hooked up, sparrow shit soldering and often components missing that they have robbed for other customers boards. Just thrown back together expecting it to be binned by the customer. I operate a no repair then no charge basis as I don't take anything on that cant be repaired.
@@razenby When i used to repair a lot of electronics, i wasn't into ripping someone off. (the truth).
My way was to repair it as cheap as possible and a couple of quid for the solder fund.
If i could not repair it, i would hand it back in the same state it was originally in, no charge.
In vcr's i often had to repair the mechanism, sometimes i would make a part for the hell of it. (i didn't charge for one of my bodges, and i told them what i had done) it often outlasted the rest of the vcr lol.
I never have been a money man, helping someone that needed help was my way.
I'm not daft, ok just a bit :-D
i will never be rich, but good frendships are more important than cash.
Dam don't i waffle.
Oh for Gwad's sake! Buy some solder sucker...........
Um no thanks... I witnessed the aftermath of failed repairs after some idiot has tried to remove audio sockets,,,