Thankyou so much for Posting This Video... Im not New to Airguns but Im New to Scopes and Im just getting into them. That being said, Ill tell you man. Sometimes... Well ALOT of the time I feel lost and confused. Like "Scope Talk" is another Language or something. This Video helpped me to have a better understanding of things and tho Ive still got to put in the time and effort to feel more at ease and comfortable. Atleast now I have a better understand of things than before i watched your Video so I feel like Im off to a much better start now. So again another BIG THANKYOU From a Loyal Subscriber from across the pond... PLEASE Try to Keep making Videos for us now and in the future as well as keep your Channel Active. You make great Vids. and give us good and reliable Info... Youll have my Support for certain. Well have a Great Day man and Safe Shooting... "Arms in the Air!" ~DrJones~ [04/17/18]
Thanks Dr Jones, glad it helped you out. I'll keep making videos for as long as I can (I'm hoping I won't be too affected by RUclips's policy changes) but if it all suddenly disappears I'll post on my Facebook page for details of where you can find the videos elsewhere.
Dr Jones the way he is showing how to zero the scope is not the way to do it . Please read what I typed and go to the link and read it . What you are doing is not the way you should zero your scope at all . The way you are doing it will limit your turret adjustments and you will be looking through a tube that is not centered in the scope which is not what you want at all . In a nut shell ,what you want to do is optically center your scope first . That means you move the cross hairs until they are in the center of the scope . Then adjust the scope to hit the target by moving the scope itself ( not the turrets ) to hit the target . You do this by using shims like in the link I put in below or use adjustable scope rings . I will type it out below . Before you zero your scope at a set distance you have to first optically center your scopes turrets then adjust your scope with adjustable scope mounts so the cross hair is lined up with the center of the target at the distance you want to make your zero distance. Then once you have your scope set as close as you can get it with the mounts you then fine tune with only a few clicks from its center with the turrets . This way your not looking through a tube that is at a angle, the best and most accurate sight picture is when the tube is optically centered . Once you have the scope optically centered and you fine adjusted the turrets so you are hitting dead on ,then you want to set your turrets to the zero on the turret dial . On most scopes turrets there are small allen set screws that hold the turrets in place . Loosen the set screws on the turret and turn the turrets only without clicking the scope and line the 0 up with the mark on the scope ,this way you know where your zero is and you can adjust as needed for closer or farther shots but can go back to your zero at any time and be optically centered. What you're doing is just adjusting your scope to hit at a set distance with the tube angled to who knows how far off of being centered which can cause you to not be accurate . If the scope is not optically centered you might run out of turret adjustments . Read this it will help you set your scope up correctly . In this link they use a shim but today you can get adjustable rings and that's the best way to go . viriato.net/airgunning/bfta_setup_manual.pdf.
You are showing a video of a hi power rifle that is being shot at over 100 yards . A air gun is different If You have a lot more adjustment to use from the turrets because the drop in the pellets . In the video he didn't start off being optically centered so who knows how many clicks he has already used . The way he is doing it in the video is for people that don't know how to shoot . The will never be able to place the scope view in the same place because of the off center tube . You can either do thing right or half ass like in this video its up to you how accurate you want to be shot after shot .
You make it so much easier to follow your instructions and explain things in a simple easy to follow method. You don't bombard anyone with irrelevant gibberish and technical jargon. Good for you !
There are so many videos about this topic but this video is by far the best I’ve seen! Really simple and clear explanation about the calculations. Not to much information, not to less, just perfect! Thank you this is really helpful for me
Lmao.. I’ve never seen a video that actually makes sighting in a gun scope complicated . The best easiest and cheapest way to sight your gun in is sight in using a bench rest that locks gun in place shoot 3 shots , look through scope and dial scope to where the 3 shot group is .. BAM done !
Yeah numbnuts , but you don't have the luxury of clamping the gun without it moving and staying completely the same place if you are using a break barrel or under lever and not a pcp that needs minimum effort to cock. Duuuh!!
I did my zeroing using the same distance..and my scope too has 1/4"@100 yds..after minor adjustments with elevation and windage...I had perfect shots. A big thank you to you. Cheers
I think you did a great job explaining it. I spent a few hours trying to figure it out and when I thought I was making progress, BAM it was right back to where I started. I retired my squint gauge and will be doing it like this video until someone can prove to me a better way.
Pretty helpful video for me, as someone that has only really personally sighted in a scope properly twice in my 28 years of life. I've always had my Army friend who shoots all kinds of firearms do it for me... haha. The way he taught me is to basically have a fixed position or a clamp where the rifle will consistently be in the same exact position and just keep shooting and making small adjustments as I go until it consistently hits exactly where I'm trying to hit every time from the same mounted position, which makes perfect sense to me. But sometimes I can't exactly do that (either don't have a proper mount, or mess up the position mounting the rifle after pumping it again, and other little snafus).
This is how we did it in competition. First, you have to zero the scope. Adjust the elevation and windage until the reticle center does not change on the target when rotated through a full 360 degrees on a stand. Then, shim the scope to be dead on at 25 yards. This makes it so that you move the scope internals as little as possible from dead center for all your shots. The pins that drive the scope up and down and side to side do not do their job linearly. Their is error in its traverse as you move the adjustments further from dead center. And dont hold over or under. Shoot for a group, no matter the bull location. Then, make your changes. And use a full gun rest for sighting in. I suggest starting with Crossman Premiere pellets for target work. US National Champion Texas State Champion Louisiana State Champion Florida State Champion Kentucky State Champion Mississippi State Champion California State Champion 15th in the Worlds
Very helpful, thanks for taking the time to put this together. Of course without a clamp it relies on the shooter being able to get a steady group in the first place!
After two minutes of watching the video I decided to tell you how to zero a scope in a minute. Three shots to the center of the target. If I hit 10 feet to the right and 2 feet up keep the crosshairs to center of target and ask my son to move the windage and elevations knobs until the crosshairs is right where the 3 bullets did hit. Never fails. That is after making sure the scope is PROPERLY mounted on the rifle.
Dont mind the the simpletons in the comments for which basic fundemental concepts of ballistics are too complex or too difficult to grasp. This video contained the perfect combination of informational materal and visual representation of the methods described in theory, and helped immensely in configuring my rifle. Much oblidged for the spot on video.
I just got a new breakbarrel that shoots at 1300 FPS, and instructions to the scope got saturated with coffee - papier machet. Thank you for that lesson about zeroing a scope, i never used a scope in my life. THANK YOU VERY MUCH! 😀
As Phil Swede mentionned it, but maybe without sufficient details so that everybody can understand (guess) the procedure, here it is in details: 1. You crank. 2 You put your pellet in the barrel. 3. You install a vice and put in your rifle. NO, dont fix it yet. Follow the simple instructions... A very good idea would be to put the vice in place so that you can pomp it again whitout having to take rifle out of the vice. You will see why later. But this is not absolutely necessary; just easier for later on. 4. While having your rifle the vice, but still able to move it, crouch or lean or whatever you need to do, and aim throught your scope so that you at least have your target in sight. If it is a completely new scope, you may shoot completely off the target if you put it too far. So begin at 20 feet or so max. Then, while still aiming, slowly and cautiously tighten the vice while moving the rifle to keep it toward the target. Now adjust the scope elevation knob to the closest because it is very unlikely that you will only shoot at 20 feet. You will want to shoot from further than that, and probably not closer than that; well, not with a scope on at least.... Its gonna save you some adjustments later on. 5. Once rifle cannot move at all and squeezed very tightly by the vice, you shoot. BE CAREFULL not too touch or move the rifle from now on. 6. Do the necessary ajustments with the clickers (the round thingy which clicks when you turn them...) so that the shot is square at the crosshair. Now in theory, your scope is perfect for a 20 feet shot; in theory because... 7. In the very, VERY unlikely case that your pellet was a defect one, do a second shoot. Its a good thing you have placed your vice so that you can recharge without moving too much right? You had a very good idea to do so... Its not that important if the rifle/vice moves BTW. If it does because you didn't fix the vice into place, just slack the rifle a little bit, carefully adjust the position of the rifle within the vice for the correct elevation. Secure tightly. For the side to side (windy) adjustment, turn the vice/rifle assembly to align the crosshair with the center of the target. 8. Shoot. Normally, the pellet should now be straight at the middle of the target if you did everything correctly. The key here is being meticulous, and cautious. 9. Now there is one last thing because it is probable that you wont settle for shooting at only 20 feet. Just to be on the safe side, put your target at the distance you will shoot most of the time. If you have a good scope, you will know how many clicks to adjust the correct elevation, so this should be a walk in the park. Load, aim, shoot, bullseye! If you have a cheap scope on which the numbers dont mean anything, you will have to do one more test. Shoot as described, and now turn the elevation knob so that you have the crosshair in the center, and look at the number on the knob. Its going to tell you how much elevation adjustment is made for each click. In that case, I would recommend you put a tape, with bars/numbers reflecting the distances so that you dont have to remember and recalculate everytime. You wanna shoot at 200 feet, you turn the knob on the 200 mark insteda of turning it on the "7" for instance. Also take note that the first adjustment at 20 feet does allow for a very large margin of error. That's why it is a good idea to repeat the process at long range. The first one was more so that you can take your first shot while being sure it was gonna be at least on the target. The main benefit of this procedure, is that the scope will be perfectly aligned, without considering the shooters bad habit, body positionning, technique or anything. The aiming will be neutral. If you find out that once this procedure is donem that you have a tendency to shoot off target, then maybe you could consider that you are the one having a problem shooting. I'm not flaming you or blaming you, just keep an open mind and remember that shooting precisely is not a video game. Some professional soldier will never shoot straight their entire life. If that happens, I suggest redoing the calibration once more. Maybe you just got unlucky, or careless, or it was windy or anything and you are a perfect shootr but it is the scope's fault. Maybe. So do it another time and see the results. If after the second calibration you still cannot shoot straight, i hate to break it to you, but you are just not a good shooter. Maybe take some lesson because there are more things implied in shooting accuratly than just point and shoot. Body positionning, breathing timing, mindset, general medical health (like very tired) are all things that can make you shoot badly. Obviously, drugs and alcohol should be avoided; and not only for accuracy purpose.
Formula- Work with the distance given on the Scope 1/4" @ 100 yards 1. Get your ACTUAL DISTANCE from the Target and convert to yards. 2. Divide 100 yards by the amount of YOUR ACTUAL DISTANCE IN YARDS This equals the DISTANCE FACTOR that you use in Step 3. 3. Calculate the 1/4" Click Adjustment (.25) and Divide it by YOUR DISTANCE Factor. This give you YOUR CLICK FACTOR for the next step. 4. Measure the distance missed on the actual target Take this MEASUREMENT OF THE MISS in decimal format and divide by that by YOUR CLICK FACTOR. This gives you the NUMBER OF CLICKS to get to the Bulls Eye point on the Target. THANKS AIR ARMORY
I think this point of view is easier: - What is the deviation between the shot and the center of the bullseye at 12.5 yards? ---> 0.6 inches - What would this deviation be at 8 times the distance to the target (100 yards)? --->8x0.6 = 4.8 inches - If at 100 yards one click moves the sights 0.25 inches, how many clicks would it take to bring the sight and the target in line? ---> 4.8/0.25 = 19 clicks.
I had no idea zeroing was so complex. Thank you for the video, but all I do is shoot my target with a stationary rifle. See where the hole is and adjust the scope to where the hole was made. My next shot is usually dead on. Then increase the distance to target and repeat.. done.
That is a very direct way of doing it, but you have to have the gun very steady when clicking, and I don't own a gun vise or something rigid enough to hold the gun. So I take one shot, do the measuring and math to figure out the clicks at my zero yardage, (easy enough), and the next shot is on target if the scope is quality. I really did not want to spend the time watching all the little things in between, like screwing off a turret cap. But unfortunately, some people don't know which way it turns. It is easier to be a teacher if you know how much the students know. On youtube, they have to start at the bottom. :) lefty loose'y
I have a spring rifle so invested in a lazer bore sighter, stuck it in the end of the barrel aimed it at the bull on the target and adjusted the scope to suit, crosshairs and red dot both on the bull before even firing a shot. Very handy. thanks for the information though. Dave.
thank you for making this video. I just put a new scope on my gamo whisper x and had it zeroed in quickly using the first method. saved in favorites for later refract. tyvm
I bought my first air rifle, Benjamin Vaporizer .22 in the dead of winter in NY. I grew up around firearms all my life and served in the military, so im very familiar with shooting and zeroing a scope. I took it out of the box, put the scope on it and the 12 year old in me just could not resist firing it, I knew i was not going to go out in the cold and Zero so I just squeezed off a few pellets from my back 2nd floor balcony, i knew i wasn't going to bulls-eye anything but i was kind of surprised that i couldn't even tell where the pellet hit, i think i missed the Maple tree completely... I've got my work cut out for me.
In fact the easy way is shoot the target . Then place the cross hairs on were you hit .Keeping the rifle still and looking through it move the cross hairs till they are over the bull . This works every time !
@Paul Yes ! Done it for years . The rifle must not move when adjusting the cross hairs( on your group center).Its easier than you think . It's reverse hold over !
@Paul Not quite getting it !. You shoot a group cocking each time ( as you would have to with a Springer)then using a bag rest at the front only to rest under your hand , and shoot as normal ( no tight grip etc . Then you center your cross hairs on the group and adjust as stated .
Thank you so much for this video. I’m new to everything to do with the sport. Just got myself a Webley Raider and I really need the how to on everything. But it’s no good knowing everything and not being able to zero my scope. So I’m very grateful for the help. Also extremely grateful for the maths part! 😀
Method 2 seems much easier and an awful lot less complicated, I wish I had seen this before I tried to zero my scope, I just went by trial and error, 5 shots, adjust up or down, left or right, then 5 shots, an so on, Wish I had known method 2........good and informative video....thumbs up!
+davescorpion Glad you found it useful. Method 2 can be quick, but I still prefer the first method, as the way you hold and fire a rifle is different to when it is clamped solid in a rest.
+Air Armoury Very true, but I think method 2 followed by just a few tweaks afterwards would be a lot quicker, but I guess how quickly you want to get "on the range" or "out in the field" will make that decision easier..... ;)
Simple and easy ways..... Thank you. So meany times years ago I didn't know if you moved the pellet to the cross or as said you move the cross to the pellet. So simple and easy now......
Nice job. While there are some more simpler ways to achieve Zero when setting scopes, you have done a good job presenting two different methods of sighting scopes. Bonus points for mentioning "Springers" need freedom of movement for the "double recoil" and should NOT be clamped down. In fact I would add that most NP (Crosman) AR's should not be "locked down" as well. The second method you showed is and excellent way to see if your scope actually works BEFORE mounting on your rifle. Check 'Elevation'/'Windage' and the use of the "box pattern" to see if you get "return to center". Once that is checked, then you should mount the scope and then zero/center. After decades of zeroing, with nothing but "bags", I am now considering a professional rifle/scope Sighting sled/bench. I used a friends and oh my goodness...the ease to Zero. Happy Shooting
Why lock any gun down, when you are going to be shooting it by hand? I can see a lock down after the first shot, to click over to the center, but not for shooting it.
I though that when you zero your scope at a set distance you have to first optically center your scopes turrets then adjust your scope with adjustable scope mounts so the cross hair is lined up with the center of the target at the distance you want to make your zero distance. Then once you have your scope set as close as you can get it with the mounts you then fine tune with only a few clicks from its center . This way your not looking through a tube that is at a angle, the best and most accurate sight picture is when the tube is optically centered .Then if you have a turret that can be moved you loosen the set screws on the turret and turn the turrets only without clicking the scope and line the 0 up with the mark on the scope ,this way you know where your zero is and you can adjust as needed for closer or farther shots but can go back to your zero at any time and be optically centered . What you're doing is just adjusting your scope to hit at a set distance with the tube angled to who knows how far off of being centered which can cause you to not be accurate . If the scope is not optically centered you might run out of turret adjustments . Read this it will help you set your scope up correctly . In this link they use a shim but today you can get adjustable rings and thats the best way to go . viriato.net/airgunning/bfta_setup_manual.pdf.
@@James28R Its not a matter of not hitting anything its a matter of putting the bullet in the same hole as the first one . That's the difference when you set your scope up the correct way . This is not my doing . I'm just typing out the way the BFTA setup is . Please forward your moron comment to them I'm just a messenger of their ways . People that setup their scopes this way are the most accurate shooter in the world but I guess they are moron's also . Its pretty sad when you go to the trouble of setting up your scope the best way possible you get called a moron .
I would always suggest you start with a decent bench rest front and rear so there is no gun movement by you in the zeroing. Without this small movement by you will send the pellets all over the place and you will not be accurate and you will blame it on the gun or pellets. A solid bench rest is the key to zeroing and only zero where you feel you will be shooting most of your targets.
Just got a Gamo air rifle, it's as lot of fun. It came with a "scope " if thats what you want to call it. Now it's a dust collector. Open sights are a big improvement. Reminds me of my Crossman in the 70's. The junk scope did well vertically was a 1/2 inch to the right and ran out of adjustment. Poor optics and clarity and no I wasn't surprised.
Great video, great info, thanks for sharing with us. If you need shims and unsure how to find ELL, don’t tell your wife I said this. I use her aluminum foil, cut in approximately 1/4 , 3/8, 1/2: x 1 inch strips to use singularly or multiples to get the scope shimmed. Just my 2 cents.
Personally for my airsoft snipers I used a barrel laser to preset range and some math. Then fine tuned at the site. Same method can be used for air rifles over a greater distance.
If a scope has been adjusted all the way "out", either up or down... left or right and you needed to "re-center it".... would the correct way be.... to just wind it all the way in the opposite direction, while counting the clicks.... then "half" the total click count, back in the opposite direction again ?? Thanks for your time and response. Great Video... as all your video's are, and your efforts are much appreciated. Thank you, from the wilds of Wyoming, USA
just bought a new .177 and a 3-9x 40 scope.. good info thanks.. I have a small step ladder with a paint holder on .. it works great for a rifle rest.. got the scope yesterday and mounted it.. today I'm gonna shoot beer bottle caps @ 65 yards
I would have never believed bottle caps at 65 yards with a .177, until I started doing it with my $120 Benny Titan break barrel from a door jam , (not a bag). JSB Diabolo exact 10.34g pellet. Am I right? :) Goes through the bottle cap also with the Titan making 16.5 fpe.
Fine work. However, this is only academic and time wasted if the erector tube inside one's scope is too loose. This is likely due to the user's initial need to to make a huge adjustment to compensate for barrel "droop". This is a very common problem and there are MANY videos on this. Many rifles end up returned due to this. OY. Over compensating with scope adjustments for barrel droop can actually result in broken scopes on the bigger gas ram/spring rifles. So be on the lookout for, and hopefully solve, this classic mounting problem by shimming the rear bottom ring or purchasing adjustable mounts. Otherwise, this may be an exercise in futility. (rant completed.) Happy shooting-
Example: Zero at 35 yards. Shot off by 1" vertical and horizontal. .250" = 1 click at 100 yards, so: (.35 times .250" = .0875") 1", (distance off) divided by .0875 =11.4 clocks, (11 clicks). If you have a quality scope, (and set up well), your next shot will be on target. It took a Leupold to prove that to me. :)
It is really simple, adjust the scope to where the bullet hits on the target at 10yds. Then re aim with the adjusted scope for final adjustments. You should have your scope zeroed within three rounds. Yes three rounds but five would be the max.
After a neighbour gave me a noname plinker with a scope on duff mounts I'm looking at getting back into Air rifles, favouriting this for future use, cheers.
Enjoyed the video, very informative. I was a little confused about how to figure out the clicks at the shorter distances and you explained it well. The only issue I had was the audio was out of sync with the video. Could be an issue on my end. Otherwise, two thumbs up.
this is a good video but you missed one important detail out....that is make sure you clean you barrel before you Zero your Scope as dirt in the barrel will effect your shot. also a bit too much math. but still a good vid. good effort. 🖒
Thanks. 'too much math' does seem to be a common comment, but this is the technically correct way to do it (especially if your scope is way out to start with).
COOL VIDEO MAN, AND GREAT WAY TO MAKE YOURSELF LOOK LIKE A GENIUS. I'll be sure to use the part where I pull out some paper, a pencil, and a calculator, draw some lines, angles, and put some yard numbers, that way when my girlfriend looks outside and checks what I'm doing from the window, she'll think I'm a smart man doing something smart! Ya man. Paper, pencil, and calculator is the best part, lmao. Christ how to go overboard when zero'ing a pellet rifle... lmao
alannorr I lost hope... that is why I am here.. apparently I was sold a piece of crap scope from a "Friend" (same old story)... I am clutching at straws, I have had my cheap rifle for a year and am scared to use it... I am saving up for a Hawke or something at £50-70
You could at least suggest something that proves your point; that to me would be a real benefit than just telling us beginners not to "lose hope." Any simplified or simpler guide you could link to? Or even write something yourself. Any links would be welcome. As a beginner and math lover, and I appreciated the video and the guy's efforts to educate.
I just picked up a pellet gun and decided to zero the scope. I lined up on the target and nothing. I kept moving the point of aim until I started hitting the target and found that at 30 feet, the gun was shooting about 18 inches low and about 12 inches to the right. I was shocked that the scope was that far off from new. The scope was already on the pellet gun, so it wasn't something I messed up assembling everything. I am slowly getting it closer to the mark now, but it seems to take it forever to get it closer to the point of aim.
I've never actually use a laser bore sight myself so I'm not an expert. In a way it is similar to the second method in my video. You put the bore sight into your barrel which projects a laser beam perfectly aligned to your barrel. You then line up your crosshairs on the laser beam.
I used my girlfriends shoulder to rest my barret 50 cal. on. Worked really well and as an added bonus she hasn’t answered anything I’ve said to her since. 🥇🏆😎
Ok my friend's in Air Armour, I am looking at an Air Rifle, a Break Barrel piston .22-.25 cal for hunting small game ... it has to be no batteries ... which one of HAWKE Scope's do you recommend?
Hi, just got my weapon back from the brother-in-law so will need to re-calibrate it for me.... thank you for the maths update as l don’t have a rest...
I have made a full scheme on how much clicks you need to turn the knob at the following distances; 100, 90,80,70,60,50,40,30,20,10,5,1 meters and at 100, 90,80,70,60,50,40,30,20,10,5,1 yards. I put on there how much you need to click if you want to move the crosshairs 10 mm at all those distances. ( My scheme is for scopes that work with the 1/4 moa at 100 yards system.) If anyone wants it, tell me and i will email it to you.
Not bad, just one thing i noticed the wind and how strong it was and your shooting in a area where the wind was not really affecting the shot, also i know for a fact you should be able o see the pellet as your shooting it if your eyesight is real good, still good work, but then again i wonder why the adjustments are done in yards, for gods sake does that mean that almost every scope is set up for adjustments at imperial measurements ?
Rob Saunders zeroed in my air rifle for me, he was hitting the target every time!! When I had a shot the pellets were going into his mummies lawn, I gave it back and he was consistent!! Me... Into the lawn, then I tied a mill dot below the cross hairs... Bing.... Bullseye!! The prick had nobbled my sights so he could be a better shot than me!! Un believable, he did it again months later, I thought the rifle was broken!! Then I remembered Robert had had his hands on it again!!
so can I zero in by just tap a laser pointer to the barrel, and adjust the scope so the cross-hair is right on top of the point where the laser points at?
Thankyou so much for Posting This Video... Im not New to Airguns but Im New to Scopes and Im just getting into them. That being said, Ill tell you man. Sometimes... Well ALOT of the time I feel lost and confused. Like "Scope Talk" is another Language or something. This Video helpped me to have a better understanding of things and tho Ive still got to put in the time and effort to feel more at ease and comfortable. Atleast now I have a better understand of things than before i watched your Video so I feel like Im off to a much better start now. So again another BIG THANKYOU From a Loyal Subscriber from across the pond... PLEASE Try to Keep making Videos for us now and in the future as well as keep your Channel Active. You make great Vids. and give us good and reliable Info... Youll have my Support for certain. Well have a Great Day man and Safe Shooting...
"Arms in the Air!"
~DrJones~
[04/17/18]
Thanks Dr Jones, glad it helped you out. I'll keep making videos for as long as I can (I'm hoping I won't be too affected by RUclips's policy changes) but if it all suddenly disappears I'll post on my Facebook page for details of where you can find the videos elsewhere.
Dr Jones the way he is showing how to zero the scope is not the way to do it . Please read what I typed and go to the link and read it .
What you are doing is not the way you should zero your scope at all . The way you are doing it will limit your turret adjustments and you will be looking through a tube that is not centered in the scope which is not what you want at all .
In a nut shell ,what you want to do is optically center your scope first . That means you move the cross hairs until they are in the center of the scope . Then adjust the scope to hit the target by moving the scope itself ( not the turrets ) to hit the target . You do this by using shims like in the link I put in below or use adjustable scope rings . I will type it out below .
Before you zero your scope at a set distance you have to first optically center your scopes turrets then adjust your scope with adjustable scope mounts so the cross hair is lined up with the center of the target at the distance you want to make your zero distance. Then once you have your scope set as close as you can get it with the mounts you then fine tune with only a few clicks from its center with the turrets .
This way your not looking through a tube that is at a angle, the best and most accurate sight picture is when the tube is optically centered .
Once you have the scope optically centered and you fine adjusted the turrets so you are hitting dead on ,then you want to set your turrets to the zero on the turret dial .
On most scopes turrets there are small allen set screws that hold the turrets in place . Loosen the set screws on the turret and turn the turrets only without clicking the scope and line the 0 up with the mark on the scope ,this way you know where your zero is and you can adjust as needed for closer or farther shots but can go back to your zero at any time and be optically centered.
What you're doing is just adjusting your scope to hit at a set distance with the tube angled to who knows how far off of being centered which can cause you to not be accurate . If the scope is not optically centered you might run out of turret adjustments . Read this it will help you set your scope up correctly . In this link they use a shim but today you can get adjustable rings and that's the best way to go . viriato.net/airgunning/bfta_setup_manual.pdf.
@@Sertao2013 ruclips.net/video/TiOpQY2ORo4/видео.html
You are showing a video of a hi power rifle that is being shot at over 100 yards . A air gun is different If You have a lot more adjustment to use from the turrets because the drop in the pellets . In the video he didn't start off being optically centered so who knows how many clicks he has already used . The way he is doing it in the video is for people that don't know how to shoot . The will never be able to place the scope view in the same place because of the off center tube . You can either do thing right or half ass like in this video its up to you how accurate you want to be shot after shot .
@@Sertao2013 The same principle!
You make it so much easier to follow your instructions and explain things in a simple easy to follow method. You don't bombard anyone with irrelevant gibberish and technical jargon. Good for you !
There are so many videos about this topic but this video is by far the best I’ve seen! Really simple and clear explanation about the calculations.
Not to much information, not to less, just perfect! Thank you this is really helpful for me
Lmao.. I’ve never seen a video that actually makes sighting in a gun scope complicated . The best easiest and cheapest way to sight your gun in is sight in using a bench rest that locks gun in place shoot 3 shots , look through scope and dial scope to where the 3 shot group is .. BAM done !
He has to complicate it to appear smart.
Yeah numbnuts , but you don't have the luxury of clamping the gun without it moving and staying completely the same place if you are using a break barrel or under lever and not a pcp that needs minimum effort to cock. Duuuh!!
That was the second method shown.
I just shoot at orange target stickers, yes there is human error but I love target practice and gives me an excuse to keep shooting.
I did my zeroing using the same distance..and my scope too has 1/4"@100 yds..after minor adjustments with elevation and windage...I had perfect shots. A big thank you to you. Cheers
I think you did a great job explaining it. I spent a few hours trying to figure it out and when I thought I was making progress, BAM it was right back to where I started. I retired my squint gauge and will be doing it like this video until someone can prove to me a better way.
Pretty helpful video for me, as someone that has only really personally sighted in a scope properly twice in my 28 years of life. I've always had my Army friend who shoots all kinds of firearms do it for me... haha. The way he taught me is to basically have a fixed position or a clamp where the rifle will consistently be in the same exact position and just keep shooting and making small adjustments as I go until it consistently hits exactly where I'm trying to hit every time from the same mounted position, which makes perfect sense to me. But sometimes I can't exactly do that (either don't have a proper mount, or mess up the position mounting the rifle after pumping it again, and other little snafus).
This is how we did it in competition. First, you have to zero the scope.
Adjust the elevation and windage until the reticle center does not
change on the target when rotated through a full 360 degrees on a stand.
Then, shim the scope to be dead on at 25 yards. This makes it so that
you move the scope internals as little as possible from dead center for
all your shots. The pins that drive the scope up and down and side to
side do not do their job linearly. Their is error in its traverse as you
move the adjustments further from dead center. And dont hold over or
under. Shoot for a group, no matter the bull location. Then, make your
changes. And use a full gun rest for sighting in. I suggest starting
with Crossman Premiere pellets for target work.
US National Champion
Texas State Champion
Louisiana State Champion
Florida State Champion
Kentucky State Champion
Mississippi State Champion
California State Champion
15th in the Worlds
Thanx! 👍
What kind of stand can I use while rotating the scope 360°?
Very helpful, thanks for taking the time to put this together. Of course without a clamp it relies on the shooter being able to get a steady group in the first place!
No problem.
After two minutes of watching the video I decided to tell you how to zero a scope in a minute. Three shots to the center of the target. If I hit 10 feet to the right and 2 feet up keep the crosshairs to center of target and ask my son to move the windage and elevations knobs until the crosshairs is right where the 3 bullets did hit. Never fails. That is after making sure the scope is PROPERLY mounted on the rifle.
Very, very good. Simple enough to get a novice started yet technical enough to teach an 'advanced' shooter. many thanks
No problem, thanks for you comment.
Finally! Simple, straightforward, and effective. Thank you!
Dont mind the the simpletons in the comments for which basic fundemental concepts of ballistics are too complex or too difficult to grasp. This video contained the perfect combination of informational materal and visual representation of the methods described in theory, and helped immensely in configuring my rifle. Much oblidged for the spot on video.
Thanks for the positive feedback, it is much appreciated.
Achtung Panzer you sound like fun at parties
Dick head
@@nickmcaleer2861 aww poor nick feels offended. haha
Good job , that's how I zeroed my 7 mm Express Remington (.280) the first time . The flattest shooting gun that I've ever owned !
I just got a new breakbarrel that shoots at 1300 FPS, and instructions to the scope got saturated with coffee - papier machet. Thank you for that lesson about zeroing a scope, i never used a scope in my life. THANK YOU VERY MUCH! 😀
Great video, thanks. I didn't even think to try to zero the scope as you did at 13:35. That makes things much easier.
As Phil Swede mentionned it, but maybe without sufficient details so that everybody can understand (guess) the procedure, here it is in details:
1. You crank.
2 You put your pellet in the barrel.
3. You install a vice and put in your rifle. NO, dont fix it yet. Follow the simple instructions... A very good idea would be to put the vice in place so that you can pomp it again whitout having to take rifle out of the vice. You will see why later. But this is not absolutely necessary; just easier for later on.
4. While having your rifle the vice, but still able to move it, crouch or lean or whatever you need to do, and aim throught your scope so that you at least have your target in sight. If it is a completely new scope, you may shoot completely off the target if you put it too far. So begin at 20 feet or so max. Then, while still aiming, slowly and cautiously tighten the vice while moving the rifle to keep it toward the target. Now adjust the scope elevation knob to the closest because it is very unlikely that you will only shoot at 20 feet. You will want to shoot from further than that, and probably not closer than that; well, not with a scope on at least.... Its gonna save you some adjustments later on.
5. Once rifle cannot move at all and squeezed very tightly by the vice, you shoot. BE CAREFULL not too touch or move the rifle from now on.
6. Do the necessary ajustments with the clickers (the round thingy which clicks when you turn them...) so that the shot is square at the crosshair. Now in theory, your scope is perfect for a 20 feet shot; in theory because...
7. In the very, VERY unlikely case that your pellet was a defect one, do a second shoot. Its a good thing you have placed your vice so that you can recharge without moving too much right? You had a very good idea to do so... Its not that important if the rifle/vice moves BTW. If it does because you didn't fix the vice into place, just slack the rifle a little bit, carefully adjust the position of the rifle within the vice for the correct elevation. Secure tightly. For the side to side (windy) adjustment, turn the vice/rifle assembly to align the crosshair with the center of the target.
8. Shoot. Normally, the pellet should now be straight at the middle of the target if you did everything correctly. The key here is being meticulous, and cautious.
9. Now there is one last thing because it is probable that you wont settle for shooting at only 20 feet. Just to be on the safe side, put your target at the distance you will shoot most of the time. If you have a good scope, you will know how many clicks to adjust the correct elevation, so this should be a walk in the park. Load, aim, shoot, bullseye! If you have a cheap scope on which the numbers dont mean anything, you will have to do one more test. Shoot as described, and now turn the elevation knob so that you have the crosshair in the center, and look at the number on the knob. Its going to tell you how much elevation adjustment is made for each click. In that case, I would recommend you put a tape, with bars/numbers reflecting the distances so that you dont have to remember and recalculate everytime. You wanna shoot at 200 feet, you turn the knob on the 200 mark insteda of turning it on the "7" for instance.
Also take note that the first adjustment at 20 feet does allow for a very large margin of error. That's why it is a good idea to repeat the process at long range. The first one was more so that you can take your first shot while being sure it was gonna be at least on the target.
The main benefit of this procedure, is that the scope will be perfectly aligned, without considering the shooters bad habit, body positionning, technique or anything. The aiming will be neutral. If you find out that once this procedure is donem that you have a tendency to shoot off target, then maybe you could consider that you are the one having a problem shooting. I'm not flaming you or blaming you, just keep an open mind and remember that shooting precisely is not a video game. Some professional soldier will never shoot straight their entire life. If that happens, I suggest redoing the calibration once more. Maybe you just got unlucky, or careless, or it was windy or anything and you are a perfect shootr but it is the scope's fault. Maybe. So do it another time and see the results. If after the second calibration you still cannot shoot straight, i hate to break it to you, but you are just not a good shooter. Maybe take some lesson because there are more things implied in shooting accuratly than just point and shoot. Body positionning, breathing timing, mindset, general medical health (like very tired) are all things that can make you shoot badly. Obviously, drugs and alcohol should be avoided; and not only for accuracy purpose.
🙄
You lost me when I had to do math 😂
Yeezus, that’s unfortunate. I had no idea what he was talking about until he got into the math.
I saw easy way hell what's the hard way. Algebra involved
Hank Watson: No, not algebra, just trigonometry!
Formula- Work with the distance given on the Scope
1/4" @ 100 yards
1. Get your ACTUAL DISTANCE from the Target and convert to yards.
2. Divide 100 yards by the amount of YOUR ACTUAL DISTANCE IN YARDS
This equals the DISTANCE FACTOR that you use in Step 3.
3. Calculate the 1/4" Click Adjustment (.25)
and Divide it by YOUR DISTANCE Factor. This give you YOUR CLICK FACTOR for the next step.
4. Measure the distance missed on the actual target
Take this MEASUREMENT OF THE MISS in decimal format and divide by that by YOUR CLICK FACTOR. This gives you the NUMBER OF CLICKS to get to the Bulls Eye point on the Target.
THANKS AIR ARMORY
I think this point of view is easier:
- What is the deviation between the shot and the center of the bullseye at 12.5 yards? ---> 0.6 inches
- What would this deviation be at 8 times the distance to the target (100 yards)? --->8x0.6 = 4.8 inches
- If at 100 yards one click moves the sights 0.25 inches, how many clicks would it take to bring the sight and the target in line? ---> 4.8/0.25 = 19 clicks.
I had no idea zeroing was so complex. Thank you for the video, but all I do is shoot my target with a stationary rifle. See where the hole is and adjust the scope to where the hole was made. My next shot is usually dead on. Then increase the distance to target and repeat.. done.
That is a very direct way of doing it, but you have to have the gun very steady when clicking, and I don't own a gun vise or something rigid enough to hold the gun. So I take one shot, do the measuring and math to figure out the clicks at my zero yardage, (easy enough), and the next shot is on target if the scope is quality.
I really did not want to spend the time watching all the little things in between, like screwing off a turret cap. But unfortunately, some people don't know which way it turns.
It is easier to be a teacher if you know how much the students know. On youtube, they have to start at the bottom. :) lefty loose'y
You are correct
Thanks for a great instructional video, very easy to watch and take on board. Brilliant stuff
Thanks.
I have a spring rifle so invested in a lazer bore sighter, stuck it in the end of the barrel aimed it at the bull on the target and adjusted the scope to suit, crosshairs and red dot both on the bull before even firing a shot. Very handy. thanks for the information though. Dave.
thank you for making this video. I just put a new scope on my gamo whisper x and had it zeroed in quickly using the first method. saved in favorites for later refract. tyvm
ment refrance
No problem. Glad it worked for you.
I bought my first air rifle, Benjamin Vaporizer .22 in the dead of winter in NY. I grew up around firearms all my life and served in the military, so im very familiar with shooting and zeroing a scope. I took it out of the box, put the scope on it and the 12 year old in me just could not resist firing it, I knew i was not going to go out in the cold and Zero so I just squeezed off a few pellets from my back 2nd floor balcony, i knew i wasn't going to bulls-eye anything but i was kind of surprised that i couldn't even tell where the pellet hit, i think i missed the Maple tree completely... I've got my work cut out for me.
A good video. I had a BSA "Mercury" years ago and it was a fine piece of kit indeed.
and, It is very important to have a scope made for airguns as the recoil of the spring inside the gun can damage a non air gun scope.
very clear, concise, and helpful!
Thanks.
Thanks for the tutorial it was very helpful for a first time user
Just fix gun, aim for middle of target.
Then move the knobs so the x-hair is on the point of impact.
Just dont move the weapon.
dipshit
if a spring-style, you have top move it after every shot
I cannot hold my rifle still while I crank the 40lb spring, you'd have to be really, really strong to do that.
In fact the easy way is shoot the target . Then place the cross hairs on were you hit .Keeping the rifle still and looking through it move the cross hairs till they are over the bull . This works every time !
@Paul Yes ! Done it for years .
The rifle must not move when adjusting the cross hairs( on your group center).Its easier than you think . It's reverse hold over !
@Paul Not quite getting it !.
You shoot a group cocking each time ( as you would have to with a Springer)then using a bag rest at the front only to rest under your hand , and shoot as normal ( no tight grip etc . Then you center your cross hairs on the group and adjust as stated .
Thank you so much for this video. I’m new to everything to do with the sport. Just got myself a Webley Raider and I really need the how to on everything. But it’s no good knowing everything and not being able to zero my scope. So I’m very grateful for the help. Also extremely grateful for the maths part! 😀
Well done! Very helpful and easy to follow.
Thanks that was exactly what I was looking for.
Method 2 seems much easier and an awful lot less complicated, I wish I had seen this before I tried to zero my scope, I just went by trial and error, 5 shots, adjust up or down, left or right, then 5 shots, an so on, Wish I had known method 2........good and informative video....thumbs up!
+davescorpion Glad you found it useful. Method 2 can be quick, but I still prefer the first method, as the way you hold and fire a rifle is different to when it is clamped solid in a rest.
+Air Armoury Very true, but I think method 2 followed by just a few tweaks afterwards would be a lot quicker, but I guess how quickly you want to get "on the range" or "out in the field" will make that decision easier..... ;)
Thanks mate
The way you explain things is very helpful and easy to understand
Nice one 👍
Thanks, I try to make the kind of videos I would want to see if I looked for one on the subject, which includes clear explanations.
What a wonderful vid. Really enjoy your vids. To the point and always informative. Thank you that man.
No problem, glad you enjoy the videos.
Fabulous explanation....worked for my remington first time
Simple and easy ways..... Thank you.
So meany times years ago I didn't know if you moved the pellet to the cross or as said you move the cross to the pellet.
So simple and easy now......
perfect everything I needed to know about zeroing in a telescope for a rifle... perfect, thankyou..
No problem, glad you found it useful.
I usually adjust the reticle to the point of impact... after that, I’m ready for fine tuning.
I was so lost without this video!! Thanks bro!!!!🙏🙏👋🏼👋🏼👋🏼🙌🙌🙌🙌🍻🍻🍻
Nice job. While there are some more simpler ways to achieve Zero when setting scopes, you have done a good job presenting two different methods of sighting scopes. Bonus points for mentioning "Springers" need freedom of movement for the "double recoil" and should NOT be clamped down. In fact I would add that most NP (Crosman) AR's should not be "locked down" as well. The second method you showed is and excellent way to see if your scope actually works BEFORE mounting on your rifle. Check 'Elevation'/'Windage' and the use of the "box pattern" to see if you get "return to center". Once that is checked, then you should mount the scope and then zero/center. After decades of zeroing, with nothing but "bags", I am now considering a professional rifle/scope Sighting sled/bench. I used a friends and oh my goodness...the ease to Zero. Happy Shooting
Why lock any gun down, when you are going to be shooting it by hand? I can see a lock down after the first shot, to click over to the center, but not for shooting it.
To ESUSA: Perhaps Im just too tired... but what are talking about. R u a bot.
I though that when you zero your scope at a set distance you have to first optically center your scopes turrets then adjust your scope with adjustable scope mounts so the cross hair is lined up with the center of the target at the distance you want to make your zero distance. Then once you have your scope set as close as you can get it with the mounts you then fine tune with only a few clicks from its center . This way your not looking through a tube that is at a angle, the best and most accurate sight picture is when the tube is optically centered .Then if you have a turret that can be moved you loosen the set screws on the turret and turn the turrets only without clicking the scope and line the 0 up with the mark on the scope ,this way you know where your zero is and you can adjust as needed for closer or farther shots but can go back to your zero at any time and be optically centered . What you're doing is just adjusting your scope to hit at a set distance with the tube angled to who knows how far off of being centered which can cause you to not be accurate . If the scope is not optically centered you might run out of turret adjustments . Read this it will help you set your scope up correctly . In this link they use a shim but today you can get adjustable rings and thats the best way to go . viriato.net/airgunning/bfta_setup_manual.pdf.
You are correct, Steve.
wow. everyone with non adjustable mounts must not be able to hit anything!! oh wait, no you are just a moron.
@@James28R Its not a matter of not hitting anything its a matter of putting the bullet in the same hole as the first one . That's the difference when you set your scope up the correct way .
This is not my doing . I'm just typing out the way the BFTA setup is .
Please forward your moron comment to them I'm just a messenger of their ways .
People that setup their scopes this way are the most accurate shooter in the world but I guess they are moron's also .
Its pretty sad when you go to the trouble of setting up your scope the best way possible you get called a moron .
Nice video, Clear and Simple guide, cheers.
Like one of adjusting while looking at the cross of the scope...you have real assisted greatly
Thanks for a well explained and helpful video
I would always suggest you start with a decent bench rest front and rear so there is no gun movement by you in the zeroing. Without this small movement by you will send the pellets all over the place and you will not be accurate and you will blame it on the gun or pellets. A solid bench rest is the key to zeroing and only zero where you feel you will be shooting most of your targets.
Thanks great video. I'm a total beginner I followed your video as you said I'm shooting at 15 yards set the sights and bullseye 😊
Just got a Gamo air rifle, it's as lot of fun. It came with a "scope " if thats what you want to call it. Now it's a dust collector. Open sights are a big improvement. Reminds me of my Crossman in the 70's. The junk scope did well vertically was a 1/2 inch to the right and ran out of adjustment. Poor optics and clarity and no I wasn't surprised.
Great video, great info, thanks for sharing with us. If you need shims and unsure how to find ELL, don’t tell your wife I said this. I use her aluminum foil, cut in approximately 1/4 , 3/8, 1/2: x 1 inch strips to use singularly or multiples to get the scope shimmed. Just my 2 cents.
Personally for my airsoft snipers I used a barrel laser to preset range and some math. Then fine tuned at the site. Same method can be used for air rifles over a greater distance.
If a scope has been adjusted all the way "out", either up or down... left or right and you needed to "re-center it".... would the correct way be.... to just wind it all the way in the opposite direction, while counting the clicks.... then "half" the total click count, back in the opposite direction again ?? Thanks for your time and response.
Great Video... as all your video's are, and your efforts are much appreciated. Thank you, from the wilds of Wyoming, USA
That is correct.
just bought a new .177 and a 3-9x 40 scope.. good info thanks.. I have a small step ladder with a paint holder on .. it works great for a rifle rest.. got the scope yesterday and mounted it.. today I'm gonna shoot beer bottle caps @ 65 yards
I would have never believed bottle caps at 65 yards with a .177, until I started doing it with my $120 Benny Titan break barrel from a door jam , (not a bag).
JSB Diabolo exact 10.34g pellet. Am I right? :)
Goes through the bottle cap also with the Titan making 16.5 fpe.
Fine work. However, this is only academic and time wasted if the erector tube inside one's scope is too loose. This is likely due to the user's initial need to to make a huge adjustment to compensate for barrel "droop". This is a very common problem and there are MANY videos on this. Many rifles end up returned due to this. OY. Over compensating with scope adjustments for barrel droop can actually result in broken scopes on the bigger gas ram/spring rifles. So be on the lookout for, and hopefully solve, this classic mounting problem by shimming the rear bottom ring or purchasing adjustable mounts. Otherwise, this may be an exercise in futility. (rant completed.)
Happy shooting-
A very well explained handy blog,well done.
Thanks.
Example: Zero at 35 yards. Shot off by 1" vertical and horizontal. .250" = 1 click at 100 yards, so: (.35 times .250" = .0875")
1", (distance off) divided by .0875 =11.4 clocks, (11 clicks). If you have a quality scope, (and set up well), your next shot will be on target.
It took a Leupold to prove that to me. :)
Thanks nice clear and straightforward
Thanks for the tips in zeroing the scope
Well explained, well done, thank you
It is really simple, adjust the scope to where the bullet hits on the target at 10yds. Then re aim with the adjusted scope for final adjustments. You should have your scope zeroed within three rounds. Yes three rounds but five would be the max.
Duuuude that was so helpful because I was gonna start beating my head against the wall trying to do it the other day, thank you very much 👍👍✌✌
ruclips.net/video/BZ_eGTXArPw/видео.html
After a neighbour gave me a noname plinker with a scope on duff mounts I'm looking at getting back into Air rifles, favouriting this for future use, cheers.
No problem, hope it helps.
thank you very clear and very easy to understand especially as i am very new to this
No problem.
Enjoyed the video, very informative. I was a little confused about how to figure out the clicks at the shorter distances and you explained it well. The only issue I had was the audio was out of sync with the video. Could be an issue on my end. Otherwise, two thumbs up.
Thanks Phillip, glad it helped. I don't think the video and audio are out of sync so it might be an issue at your end like you said.
Great video and communication skills. Thank you.
this is a good video but you missed one important detail out....that is make sure you clean you barrel before you Zero your Scope as dirt in the barrel will effect your shot. also a bit too much math. but still a good vid. good effort. 🖒
Thanks. 'too much math' does seem to be a common comment, but this is the technically correct way to do it (especially if your scope is way out to start with).
Thank you , very very useful to a beginner like me!!
Glad you found it useful.
COOL VIDEO MAN, AND GREAT WAY TO MAKE YOURSELF LOOK LIKE A GENIUS. I'll be sure to use the part where I pull out some paper, a pencil, and a calculator, draw some lines, angles, and put some yard numbers, that way when my girlfriend looks outside and checks what I'm doing from the window, she'll think I'm a smart man doing something smart! Ya man. Paper, pencil, and calculator is the best part, lmao. Christ how to go overboard when zero'ing a pellet rifle... lmao
Well done my friend like your video how to zero a scope, god bless
very helpful and clearly explained
Thank you! That explanation was nice and easy.
No problem.
Very well explained. 👍
Very good you made it simple
added to my favourites, great video
+sya792 Thanks.
well explained and presented cheers it will help no end
No problem.
I luv it...i injoyed the information on this here channel
Thank you. second way I try 1st . Great info and I hope more videos soon
Thanks.
Nice job! Recommending to my students to watch.
Very clear to follow many thanks .
No problem.
Thank you, this is very helpful ❤️👍
Thanks
For the benefit of new shooters: Sighting in is not near as difficult as he makes it seem. Don't lose hope.
alannorr your dead right mate this is far to in depth for anyone.
alannorr I lost hope... that is why I am here..
apparently I was sold a piece of crap scope from a "Friend" (same old story)...
I am clutching at straws, I have had my cheap rifle for a year and am scared to use it...
I am saving up for a Hawke or something at £50-70
alannorr I haven't zeroed in my air gun yet but thanks for the advice
You could at least suggest something that proves your point; that to me would be a real benefit than just telling us beginners not to "lose hope." Any simplified or simpler guide you could link to? Or even write something yourself. Any links would be welcome. As a beginner and math lover, and I appreciated the video and the guy's efforts to educate.
No I looked elsewhere thankfully I DID!
very clear explanation,thank you.
Will this work for any scope.
great video :-) thanks a lot!
I just picked up a pellet gun and decided to zero the scope. I lined up on the target and nothing. I kept moving the point of aim until I started hitting the target and found that at 30 feet, the gun was shooting about 18 inches low and about 12 inches to the right. I was shocked that the scope was that far off from new. The scope was already on the pellet gun, so it wasn't something I messed up assembling everything. I am slowly getting it closer to the mark now, but it seems to take it forever to get it closer to the point of aim.
Helped with understand Hatsan on other clip and scope siting on this one.Thanks bro! Subbed
Nice and clear....Can you explain laser bore sight alignment?
I've never actually use a laser bore sight myself so I'm not an expert. In a way it is similar to the second method in my video. You put the bore sight into your barrel which projects a laser beam perfectly aligned to your barrel. You then line up your crosshairs on the laser beam.
Air Armoury air rifle weihrauch
I used my girlfriends shoulder to rest my barret 50 cal. on. Worked really well and as an added bonus she hasn’t answered anything I’ve said to her since. 🥇🏆😎
lol
Ok my friend's in Air Armour, I am looking at an Air Rifle, a Break Barrel piston .22-.25 cal for hunting small game ... it has to be no batteries ... which one of HAWKE Scope's do you recommend?
I found this very helpful, cheers.
Thanks good explanation for spring rifle.
Is this the same process for a springer gun
Great review mate, very clear cheers
Thanks mate from New Zealand
Once zeroed will it work for different distances or do we need to zero each time for different distances?
Hi, just got my weapon back from the brother-in-law so will need to re-calibrate it for me.... thank you for the maths update as l don’t have a rest...
I have made a full scheme on how much clicks you need to turn the knob at the following distances; 100, 90,80,70,60,50,40,30,20,10,5,1 meters and at 100, 90,80,70,60,50,40,30,20,10,5,1 yards. I put on there how much you need to click if you want to move the crosshairs 10 mm at all those distances. ( My scheme is for scopes that work with the 1/4 moa at 100 yards system.) If anyone wants it, tell me and i will email it to you.
What scope are you using
Not bad, just one thing i noticed the wind and how strong it was and your shooting in a area where the wind was not really affecting the shot, also i know for a fact you should be able o see the pellet as your shooting it if your eyesight is real good, still good work, but then again i wonder why the adjustments are done in yards, for gods sake does that mean that almost every scope is set up for adjustments at imperial measurements ?
Yes, I think just about all scopes are in yards.
Rob Saunders zeroed in my air rifle for me, he was hitting the target every time!! When I had a shot the pellets were going into his mummies lawn, I gave it back and he was consistent!! Me... Into the lawn, then I tied a mill dot below the cross hairs... Bing.... Bullseye!! The prick had nobbled my sights so he could be a better shot than me!! Un believable, he did it again months later, I thought the rifle was broken!! Then I remembered Robert had had his hands on it again!!
Haha!
Great video, very helpful
so can I zero in by just tap a laser pointer to the barrel, and adjust the scope so the cross-hair is right on top of the point where the laser points at?
Do you ever use a sizer on your Pellets?