Thanks for sharing your DIY Tesla repairs. It is encouraging that it is not necessary to have to rely on businesses with high hourly rates for repairs that require a lot of time. ☮️
Yeah, honestly parts for early model s are a LOT off the shelf. Reel deal ev has great demo videos as well as parts, replacement clips etc between them, tesla, this guy, other 3rd parties, owning an older model s you have a lot of options and the diy is relatively safe and easy in most cases!
The stickers are gaffers tape if yours lose stickyness thats whag electrified garage former tesla techs use. Thanks for this video. Whole regulator is like $60 on amazon.. some basic tools and a days work will have working windows and $$ saved. Great stuff!
One little trick to hold bolts the end of the socket: put a small piece of paper or shop rag into the socket hole, and then jam the bolt head in. It will stay until you get it started. Also works great for stainless fasteners that don't hold on magnetic sockets.
I hope that the replacement charger enables you to benefit from the free supercharging for life. After replacing the charger, will you have a go at fixing the old charger in case you can sell it to recover some cost? ☮️
My 2015 S driver window sounds crunchy at the halfway point. It hasn't broken yet but I think I'm getting a warning sign. Did your sound crunchy before it completely failed? As an alternate, you could pull the window basically all the way up and put a suction cup or two on it to hold it up instead of making a temporary window.
The 2 bottom threaded rods sof the track sit in elongated holes to adjust the angle of the window. It is important to adjust that properly otherwise you may cause damage when closing the door. Same for the installation of the glass, you need to adjust the position carefully before tightening the rear clamp.
@@moestrei Thanks for explaining that to everyone. Yes, I only lightly tightened the four bolts that hold the track in place. Then did various adjustments, then tighten them down.
I have been watching all your videos! the search for creating a solar powered camper van drew me here. Do you think its plausible in that Smith Box truck you found at the junkyard? that is such an amazing story! I'm trying to find one now but all I have seen is the smith step van's for fed ex from 2012. Not sure if they would work or if software will be a barrier to re-starting them.
I'm planning to buy the Dorman 740-603 and follow your wonderful video. I understand the 740-603 does NOT come with a motor. So, before I buy it I want to make sure that my old motor is in working condition. I've already removed the door panel and unplugged all the connectors between the door panel and the door. Ideally, I would like to test the motor standalone using a 12V source. I noticed the wire harness connector that plugs into the window switch has 4 wires, instead of the standard 2 wires. So, I'm confused about how to test the motor. Can you perhaps tell me how to test the motor using the 4 wires?
@@plee4321 Disconnect the motor from the old regulator and remove that. Put the motor back in the door and connect the wiring back up. Use the window up/down switch to confirm the motor works.
@@BenjaminNelsonX Thanks so much for your prompt attention! I just finished an online chat with Dorman Technical Support and asked the same question. Unfortunately, they have no idea how to test the motor. Before I disconnect the motor from the old regulator, I thought I would first plug the wire harness connector back into the window switch. When I use the window up/down switch, nothing happens and no motor sound at all. Before I removed the door panel, at least I can hear some grinding noise. Now I hear nothing at all. Do I need to plug back some other harness connectors? Right now for the motor test, only one connector is plugged in, and that's the one that is plugged into the window switch. Thank you for your kind support.
@@BenjaminNelsonX Forgive me for asking a stupid question. Let's say I remove the motor as you suggested. Instead of putting the motor back in the door to test it, is there any particular reason I can't simply test the motor standalone, while it's out of the door? Can't I just connect a 12V (or whatever appropriate voltage) source directly to the motor to see if it spins in one direction and then reverse the polarity of the source and see if it spins in the other direction?
@@BenjaminNelsonX I'm afraid I have a second dumb question. Assuming the motor tests good, the next challenge is to remove the regulator. Currently, the window is stuck all the way in the down position. The window is completely inside the door. No part of the window sticks out, so there's nothing for me to grab onto to try to pull the window up. I attached two strips of tape to either side of the window and tried to pull the window up. I was able to pull it up only a couple of inches. Once I let go of the tape, the window drops all the way back down. It seems there's some kind of obstruction that's preventing me from pulling it up further. Then I grabbed onto the bottom of the window and tried to push it up. Again, it feels like there's some kind of obstruction that's preventing me from pushing it up further. Since the regulator is broken, the window can't be positioned to the height, where I can access the two round cutouts to loosen the window from the regulator. So, without being able to remove the window first, how can I remove the regulator? I'm hoping you can help me work through these problems. Thank you.
It does not need any aligment? When I fixed long time ago my Subaru Impreza and it returned from body shop where was replaced whole side after collision with some stupid driver i had to align windows. It was quite number of iteration until I was satisfied with result. But Subaru does not need to open the windows when opening doors. Japanese guys somehow did it so well that it seal even it does not go under the trims like on Tesla. Each point of rails has to be set to right spot and there are some rollers that direct windows to the destination as it goes up first little bit do "wrong" directon as it is non linearly curved. I had to do that bodyshop not used to unframed windows could not handle. Tesla seems to be piece of cake.
Please make sure to read the video description! Links, explanations, and more!
Thanks for sharing your DIY Tesla repairs. It is encouraging that it is not necessary to have to rely on businesses with high hourly rates for repairs that require a lot of time. ☮️
Really enjoying this series, i hope the battery charger fixes the supercharging.
Yes, me too.
Good work! Glad to see user repairs manuals are accessible and so are things like Dorman Parts.
Yeah, honestly parts for early model s are a LOT off the shelf. Reel deal ev has great demo videos as well as parts, replacement clips etc between them, tesla, this guy, other 3rd parties, owning an older model s you have a lot of options and the diy is relatively safe and easy in most cases!
Thanks. I actually ordered this same part a week ago. Saw your video and installed it today. Everything is working fine.
The stickers are gaffers tape if yours lose stickyness thats whag electrified garage former tesla techs use. Thanks for this video. Whole regulator is like $60 on amazon.. some basic tools and a days work will have working windows and $$ saved. Great stuff!
Your videos are very impressive. It is nice to see someone fix a car and be successful. Awesome videos.......love them !!!
Thank you sir! Saved me $500!
One little trick to hold bolts the end of the socket: put a small piece of paper or shop rag into the socket hole, and then jam the bolt head in. It will stay until you get it started. Also works great for stainless fasteners that don't hold on magnetic sockets.
Great idea!
Lifetime free supercharging ftw
I'm glad that worked out so well.
Cheers Ben 👍💪✌
I hope that the replacement charger enables you to benefit from the free supercharging for life.
After replacing the charger, will you have a go at fixing the old charger in case you can sell it to recover some cost?
☮️
My 2015 S driver window sounds crunchy at the halfway point. It hasn't broken yet but I think I'm getting a warning sign. Did your sound crunchy before it completely failed? As an alternate, you could pull the window basically all the way up and put a suction cup or two on it to hold it up instead of making a temporary window.
The 2 bottom threaded rods sof the track sit in elongated holes to adjust the angle of the window. It is important to adjust that properly otherwise you may cause damage when closing the door. Same for the installation of the glass, you need to adjust the position carefully before tightening the rear clamp.
@@moestrei Thanks for explaining that to everyone. Yes, I only lightly tightened the four bolts that hold the track in place. Then did various adjustments, then tighten them down.
Do they have one for the driver rear window?
I have been watching all your videos! the search for creating a solar powered camper van drew me here. Do you think its plausible in that Smith Box truck you found at the junkyard? that is such an amazing story! I'm trying to find one now but all I have seen is the smith step van's for fed ex from 2012. Not sure if they would work or if software will be a barrier to re-starting them.
@@professionalaesthetics I always thought those Smith trucks would have made cool RV conversions.
Will the window mechanism you installed work on a 2015 model s?
@@HartsigTube It should be the same for 2012-2015 model years. Not even sure if it would have changed after that.
How to make window close from the app for gen 1 tesla model s
I'm planning to buy the Dorman 740-603 and follow your wonderful video. I understand the 740-603 does NOT come with a motor. So, before I buy it I want to make sure that my old motor is in working condition. I've already removed the door panel and unplugged all the connectors between the door panel and the door. Ideally, I would like to test the motor standalone using a 12V source. I noticed the wire harness connector that plugs into the window switch has 4 wires, instead of the standard 2 wires. So, I'm confused about how to test the motor. Can you perhaps tell me how to test the motor using the 4 wires?
@@plee4321 Disconnect the motor from the old regulator and remove that. Put the motor back in the door and connect the wiring back up. Use the window up/down switch to confirm the motor works.
@@BenjaminNelsonX Thanks so much for your prompt attention! I just finished an online chat with Dorman Technical Support and asked the same question. Unfortunately, they have no idea how to test the motor. Before I disconnect the motor from the old regulator, I thought I would first plug the wire harness connector back into the window switch. When I use the window up/down switch, nothing happens and no motor sound at all. Before I removed the door panel, at least I can hear some grinding noise. Now I hear nothing at all. Do I need to plug back some other harness connectors? Right now for the motor test, only one connector is plugged in, and that's the one that is plugged into the window switch. Thank you for your kind support.
@@BenjaminNelsonX Forgive me for asking a stupid question. Let's say I remove the motor as you suggested. Instead of putting the motor back in the door to test it, is there any particular reason I can't simply test the motor standalone, while it's out of the door? Can't I just connect a 12V (or whatever appropriate voltage) source directly to the motor to see if it spins in one direction and then reverse the polarity of the source
and see if it spins in the other direction?
@@BenjaminNelsonX I'm afraid I have a second dumb question. Assuming the motor tests good, the next
challenge is to remove the regulator. Currently, the window is stuck all the way in the down position. The window is completely inside the door. No part of the window sticks out, so there's nothing for me to grab
onto to try to pull the window up. I attached two strips of tape to either side of the window and tried to pull the window up. I was able to pull it up only a couple of inches. Once I let go of the tape, the window drops
all the way back down. It seems there's some kind of obstruction that's preventing me from pulling it up further. Then I grabbed onto the bottom of the window and tried to push it up. Again, it feels like there's some kind of obstruction that's preventing me from pushing it up further. Since the regulator is broken, the window can't be positioned to the height, where I can access the two round cutouts to loosen the window from the regulator. So, without being able to remove the window first, how can I remove the regulator? I'm hoping you can help me work through these problems. Thank you.
It does not need any aligment? When I fixed long time ago my Subaru Impreza and it returned from body shop where was replaced whole side after collision with some stupid driver i had to align windows. It was quite number of iteration until I was satisfied with result. But Subaru does not need to open the windows when opening doors. Japanese guys somehow did it so well that it seal even it does not go under the trims like on Tesla. Each point of rails has to be set to right spot and there are some rollers that direct windows to the destination as it goes up first little bit do "wrong" directon as it is non linearly curved. I had to do that bodyshop not used to unframed windows could not handle. Tesla seems to be piece of cake.