Your video just saved me hundreds of dollars. I was laughing when I ordered the inline coupler from amazon, but was not laughing anymore when it stopped the leak. Thank you sooo much!!!
Thanks for this post. Mine was leaking at this T as well.Tested it by spraying it with Windex and it made bubbles on just the right side of the T. Before replacing the whole thing though I thought I might try just disconnecting that right side and nipping off 1/4" of the tube and then reconnecting it. And that was all it took! No disconnecting the T fitting, no new parts and no eliminating the schrader valve. Hope this helps someone else. Thanks for pointing me in the right spot!
+100500 mee too! Just cut 0.7 to 1.5 mm of tube so it would be unweared part in a contact with T, pushed it in again and it stopped leaking. PROFIT! (Zero bucks spent)
For releasing those kind of connections "easily" you can use a fixed wrench so you can push strongly the "T" connection and use the other hand for pulling out the hose. Sorry for my english. Thank you for the vid, 3€ and 20 minutes for this reparation. You can unscrew the nipple from the original "T" and attach it to a new one. It´s recommended to use teflon tape on the threads of the nipple in the opposite direction where you are going to screw, otherwise you would take the tape out of the threads when you put it in.
Thank you so much this is what I am hearing for my car and I have had a range Rover before with similar suspension that failed so I want to get this fixed as soon as possible so the compressor doesn't burn out. I hope this is the problem I am having. Thanks again for the info
+100500 mee too! Just cut 0.7 to 1.5 mm of tube so it would be unweared part in a contact with T, pushed it in again and it stopped leaking. PROFIT! (Zero bucks spent) P.S. If one also have problems with nipple it can be got from any of old wheel rims. PPS. And Yes! It would be much better to use any soft tape or a kind of thermoglue to fix the position of tubes tieing them to big aluminum tube or to T-connector
Should have capped it and put it back in and used it to keep the line from rubbing. I cut quarter inch grommets and put them everywhere the lines were rubbing. Under the rear fenderwells and under the front frunk.
Can you just remove the center black shroud/cover that gave you access to that valve and the cabin filter without removing the side shroud/covers and/or frunk carpet and frunk cavity?
Wouldn't be Jack mode advised before releasing the pressure ? Did you had overnight lowering e.g. rear axle both sides , thats what I have ? This is the TAS suspension, mine from 2015 doesn't have that valve.
Yes and no, the valve is for removing pressure air inside the line before working on the line / air suspension parts. However the pressure there is not high enough to be dangerous. Without the valve you can still remove the push-to-connect coupler, a loud gush of air will come out of course, wearing a glove, eye protection and ear protection will help shield from danger.
@@OMGWTFLOLSMH To follow up to my prior msg, I do see the issue of now releasing air from the system. There's no way to manually release, so servicing the system may be ...tricky/dangerous.
@@OMGWTFLOLSMH Exactly! Surprised no one else mentioned this. That is to be able to release pressure AND measure the pressure in the system by attaching a tire inflator or something and read its indication. That part is needed!
I really wish i would have seen this sooner. Tesla repair shops are a joke, but I'm the sucker. They told me the air compressor and relay were bad so that was $1500. They may have been bad with how often it was running, not sure. They then told me that the struts were bad and quoted me 6k. I thought i was saving money by using a third party strut install for 3k but that still didn't fix the issue. I then got the new T from tesla and it still leaked there. Going to try some of the suggestions here. Tesla mechanics should be aware of this issue and know what you do given all of the people that have had this issue. I guess buyer beware with Tesla. Not sure how i missed this video as i did do plenty of searches. 😮
Hi diy geek, my car is doing this whoosh more often now. Only while driving and happens every 3-5 minutes during active driving. I think Tesla update the layout of the pipes because I don’t have the nipple in that location. I’ve checked for holes in the lines and nothing is chaffing and all looks ok, what else can explain that whoosh noise?
It would be good practice to remove 1/16-1/8 “ from each end ( if there is enough slack) to allow the new fitting to bite onto “new” pipe. Cut with sharp knife NOT clip with pliers” in order not to end up with the pipe out of round ( deform) I believe this valvE was resisted onto the res in 2016
My air suspension has a slow leak when parked, so I'll have soap check that part. BTW, the tee looks like 1010404-00-A, you can get most parts directly from Tesla if you can get a hold of them (I find it best just to show up at the service centre)...
Could you please tell me if you have same noise and whosh is coming up again? I have same issue and my car is 2018 . I have been mutliple time to tesla and they could not find the issue . They said they did already change the compressor but sounds is still there
@Matt najafi The fix I performed in this video fixed my issue so far. All my whoosing noises and compressor constantly (every 1 - 2 min charging and compressing air noise) all went away. And my air suspension works well!
Thabks for your reply ! I just get a call from tesla and they said we could not find any leakage! They have changed my compressor and valve but the all noises are still exist
Hmm sounds like they were lazy. My whoosh was occurring almost every minute, so it was a larger leak and i was able to hear the air leaking. Not sure if there are any other technique can be used to detect air leaks?!? May be spray soapy water all over the lines?
No doubt ! I asked them to explain how they did diagnose and they said : we did put the suspension to very high and we did wait till morning, then they did check if the suspension height is getting lower or not! Before i did bring my car to service center, they confirmed that the leakage warning is appeared on their system but now it is disappear but the noise is still there !! Super wierd situation
Been suffering this problem of compressor cycling for 6 years on occasions, only when car is left for a few days unused. If it proves to be this "top up Shrader valve" I will T off an output so I can use compressed air to pump up stuff and junk the Shrader valve T. Update a Tesla tech told me that as the system is closed and on cold / wet days the car is cycling warm / dry air from the pump that gets hot into the tank it prolongs life of the system, anyone else know if this is correct it kinda makes sense
It can not be nitrogen, because tesla has a compressor that pumps air to make suspension go up and down. I doubt Tesla cars generate Nitrogen out of thin air. LOL
@@DIYGEEKTEXAS FYI, the replacement parts should be rated DOT Air. (union joints or air lines) When the car is new, the sealed system is vacuumed empty through that Schrader valve and filled with low moisture nitrogen. Nitrogen will cycle throughout the system inside the suspension reservoir. (raising / lowering) Some leakage will occur over time and outside air will be pulled in eventually. As moisture accumulates, it can contaminate the valve block or compressor parts. Tesla SC will charge a premium for this repair service, but the service procedure calls for evacuation of all gases in the system and fill with nitrogen.
![[DIY] Tesla LDU coolant leak fix story](/img/1.gif)
Click on the link below to buy the part I used to repair this issue:
✅ ✅ 👉 amzn.to/3ndatXC
thanks for watching
Your video just saved me hundreds of dollars. I was laughing when I ordered the inline coupler from amazon, but was not laughing anymore when it stopped the leak. Thank you sooo much!!!
Love how u say the word “soapy” with your accent haha adorable ❤ my model x just gave me that same disabled message gonna try this 🌹
Thanks for this post. Mine was leaking at this T as well.Tested it by spraying it with Windex and it made bubbles on just the right side of the T. Before replacing the whole thing though I thought I might try just disconnecting that right side and nipping off 1/4" of the tube and then reconnecting it. And that was all it took! No disconnecting the T fitting, no new parts and no eliminating the schrader valve. Hope this helps someone else. Thanks for pointing me in the right spot!
+100500 mee too!
Just cut 0.7 to 1.5 mm of tube so it would be unweared part in a contact with T, pushed it in again and it stopped leaking. PROFIT! (Zero bucks spent)
For releasing those kind of connections "easily" you can use a fixed wrench so you can push strongly the "T" connection and use the other hand for pulling out the hose. Sorry for my english. Thank you for the vid, 3€ and 20 minutes for this reparation. You can unscrew the nipple from the original "T" and attach it to a new one. It´s recommended to use teflon tape on the threads of the nipple in the opposite direction where you are going to screw, otherwise you would take the tape out of the threads when you put it in.
Thanks so much, your tips save a lot of money 💰 for my.I have to check it out because I have identical symptoms with the hissing air.
Excellent video, I fixed my old tesla suspension link thanks to this video
@Haji Chaya Good luck with your Tesla
Thanks for the video it help me but how you push air back with out the air T
This video save me a couple thousand dollars and repairs
Tesla would've said "new shocks 3000 bucks pay up!"
Thanks for this tip. You saved me and my tesla model s thousands of dollars
Thank you so much this is what I am hearing for my car and I have had a range Rover before with similar suspension that failed so I want to get this fixed as soon as possible so the compressor doesn't burn out. I hope this is the problem I am having. Thanks again for the info
Thanks DIY Geek, you saved me a $1,000 repair!
Glad it helped! Thanks
I'm sure. How could replacing that tiny part cost $1000? $50-$100 part and 20 mins labour at Tesla.
This is such a helpful video. Thank you! I’m going to try this.
+100500 mee too!
Just cut 0.7 to 1.5 mm of tube so it would be unweared part in a contact with T, pushed it in again and it stopped leaking. PROFIT! (Zero bucks spent)
P.S. If one also have problems with nipple it can be got from any of old wheel rims.
PPS. And Yes! It would be much better to use any soft tape or a kind of thermoglue to fix the position of tubes tieing them to big aluminum tube or to T-connector
Should have capped it and put it back in and used it to keep the line from rubbing. I cut quarter inch grommets and put them everywhere the lines were rubbing. Under the rear fenderwells and under the front frunk.
Can you just remove the center black shroud/cover that gave you access to that valve and the cabin filter without removing the side shroud/covers and/or frunk carpet and frunk cavity?
Wouldn't be Jack mode advised before releasing the pressure ? Did you had overnight lowering e.g. rear axle both sides , thats what I have ? This is the TAS suspension, mine from 2015 doesn't have that valve.
I also have an MS 2015, which lowers the rear axle every two/three days. Any ideas as to where there might be a leak? Regards Tony
Great, thank you for this.
Is removing the valve going to cause a problem down the line?
Yes and no, the valve is for removing pressure air inside the line before working on the line / air suspension parts. However the pressure there is not high enough to be dangerous. Without the valve you can still remove the push-to-connect coupler, a loud gush of air will come out of course, wearing a glove, eye protection and ear protection will help shield from danger.
The part is there for a reason.
@@OMGWTFLOLSMH Does that mean you can speak to the consequences of this bypass?
@@OMGWTFLOLSMH To follow up to my prior msg, I do see the issue of now releasing air from the system. There's no way to manually release, so servicing the system may be ...tricky/dangerous.
@@OMGWTFLOLSMH Exactly! Surprised no one else mentioned this. That is to be able to release pressure AND measure the pressure in the system by attaching a tire inflator or something and read its indication. That part is needed!
I really wish i would have seen this sooner. Tesla repair shops are a joke, but I'm the sucker. They told me the air compressor and relay were bad so that was $1500. They may have been bad with how often it was running, not sure. They then told me that the struts were bad and quoted me 6k. I thought i was saving money by using a third party strut install for 3k but that still didn't fix the issue. I then got the new T from tesla and it still leaked there. Going to try some of the suggestions here. Tesla mechanics should be aware of this issue and know what you do given all of the people that have had this issue. I guess buyer beware with Tesla. Not sure how i missed this video as i did do plenty of searches. 😮
I hope this video and the cheap part from home depot fixed your tesla.
Is this for Tesla model X?
@@windtube2011 the video was performed on Model S 2013. But I believe Model X is probably similar.
Hi diy geek, my car is doing this whoosh more often now. Only while driving and happens every 3-5 minutes during active driving.
I think Tesla update the layout of the pipes because I don’t have the nipple in that location.
I’ve checked for holes in the lines and nothing is chaffing and all looks ok, what else can explain that whoosh noise?
If not the lines, you may want to check the air bags from each wheel. May be leaking air there! Use soapy water and spray.
the other possibility is that it can be the internal valve mechanism, (a schrader valve kit can be used) good luck all.
Sometimes the valve can come loose. I would have tried tightening it first with skinny needle nose plier or a schrader valve tool).
It would be good practice to remove 1/16-1/8 “ from each end ( if there is enough slack) to allow the new fitting to bite onto “new” pipe. Cut with sharp knife NOT clip with pliers” in order not to end up with the pipe out of round ( deform) I believe this valvE was resisted onto the res in 2016
Just curious how you charged or serviced the system after replacing the coupler?
As long as the air compressor still works, it charges the air pressure by itself. This valve was only to release the pressure.
My air suspension has a slow leak when parked, so I'll have soap check that part. BTW, the tee looks like 1010404-00-A, you can get most parts directly from Tesla if you can get a hold of them (I find it best just to show up at the service centre)...
thank you for the pt#
I read that the part has been replaced with 1753670-00-A. I'll update this comment when/if I get more info.
Oddly my December 15 model S does not have the part as shown in the video.
Could you please tell me if you have same noise and whosh is coming up again? I have same issue and my car is 2018 . I have been mutliple time to tesla and they could not find the issue . They said they did already change the compressor but sounds is still there
@Matt najafi The fix I performed in this video fixed my issue so far. All my whoosing noises and compressor constantly (every 1 - 2 min charging and compressing air noise) all went away. And my air suspension works well!
Thabks for your reply ! I just get a call from tesla and they said we could not find any leakage! They have changed my compressor and valve but the all noises are still exist
Hmm sounds like they were lazy. My whoosh was occurring almost every minute, so it was a larger leak and i was able to hear the air leaking. Not sure if there are any other technique can be used to detect air leaks?!? May be spray soapy water all over the lines?
No doubt ! I asked them to explain how they did diagnose and they said : we did put the suspension to very high and we did wait till morning, then they did check if the suspension height is getting lower or not!
Before i did bring my car to service center, they confirmed that the leakage warning is appeared on their system but now it is disappear but the noise is still there !! Super wierd situation
@@Mahd31712 hmm my tesla was leaking both when the car is moving and when it is not moving. If yours only leaks when moving, they need to test that.
Does Tesla just sell that little port assembly?
Is this still working fine?
Anyone know the name of the original part? 🤔
My leak sound comes from where the actual suspension is… I guess I must change the whole suspension😢 (model X 2018)
Did you get it fixed?
Been suffering this problem of compressor cycling for 6 years on occasions, only when car is left for a few days unused. If it proves to be this "top up Shrader valve" I will T off an output so I can use compressed air to pump up stuff and junk the Shrader valve T.
Update a Tesla tech told me that as the system is closed and on cold / wet days the car is cycling warm / dry air from the pump that gets hot into the tank it prolongs life of the system, anyone else know if this is correct it kinda makes sense
GREAT IDEA!
jesus i got a same issue..
Wrong. Wrong wrong the air system is closed nitrogen filled unit for a reason, humid air will freeze the lines at the block ....😊
It works for me, has been more than 2 years after this fix, no more leaking
It can not be nitrogen, because tesla has a compressor that pumps air to make suspension go up and down. I doubt Tesla cars generate Nitrogen out of thin air. LOL
Nitrogen is used cuz in cold climate areas regular admosferic air has moisture that will condensed inside so when winter comes voila!
@@DIYGEEKTEXAS FYI, the replacement parts should be rated DOT Air. (union joints or air lines) When the car is new, the sealed system is vacuumed empty through that Schrader valve and filled with low moisture nitrogen. Nitrogen will cycle throughout the system inside the suspension reservoir. (raising / lowering) Some leakage will occur over time and outside air will be pulled in eventually. As moisture accumulates, it can contaminate the valve block or compressor parts.
Tesla SC will charge a premium for this repair service, but the service procedure calls for evacuation of all gases in the system and fill with nitrogen.
Pls Edit this