You are a wealth of knowledge. I can't thank you enough for your videos, they have made the process of getting started with leatherworking enjoyable rather than daunting. I'm a Brit but I now live in the US so hearing you talk is a special treat for me, you are well spoken and could get a job on Blue Peter any day!
Some of my awl experience: I had a very good and sharp awl that I managed to break off right where it is embedded in the haft. I acquired a replacement haft with a chuck ( sort of like a pegging awl without the leather piece on the back end) and installed the broken awl. It is short but very fine - I use it for thin projects and it is very nice. I took the old haft and removed the broken end. I inserted a stitching needle eye first in the old haft - I use this for backstitches or any other stitch where I don't want the sharp edged of the cutting the stitch already in the hole.
Excellent video, Jo. You are a great instructor. Are you filing on both the forward and back strokes? Files only cut on the forward stroke. To put pressure on them during the backstroke quickly dulls them . Your file will stay sharper much longer if you don't press down on the backstroke. Of course, if you're only using it to sharpen a couple of awls a year, it probably doesn't matter much. ; )
Thanks for another excellent video. Do you ever stitch with bristles (boar, wire or mono-filament)? If you do I would love to see your method for making the tapered thread and tying it on to the the bristle.
hmm so i got a question, is a sword awl or a straight awl more usefull ? and so far i understand it the awl size should fit than to the size of tool what you use or ? sorry my english is not so good, but i can say i like the english what you speak :)
Thank You, This answered some of my questions posted elsewhere. So is the diameter of the finished awl blade the same size all the way down it's length? It looks like it but with your use of the word 'transitioned' I thought perhaps it might still have a bit of a length taper of some sort, Yes ? No ?
Hi Michael, generally there is a taper towards the end of the blade. When the blades are new, generally they have quite a large shoulder area (depending on the brand this will vary) that needs to be smoothed out so the blade can easily go through the leather. Hope that makes sense....
@@JHLeather Thank you for the reply. With your description I have to wonder if your Awls wind up being a little different than ones here in the U.S.. You mentioned the source of your tools and I looked them up finding they are a wholesale outfit, not open to straight sales. The smooth part makes sense. What you actually have to work with before customizing is the question in my mind. But, probably it's all rhetorical anyway; after all one is limited by his sources and need to make do. I note you also give your awl a slight twist counterclockwise before removing it from the leather; to make the hole a bit larger for needle insertion perhaps?
You can open an account online with them in the 'my account' part of their website. Yes, it just allows the needles/thread to go through the leather a bit more easily.
Wrong, secure the file and work the awl as if you are using a stone. Lock your wrist and sharpen without dropping your hand, one straight motion on the file and on the stone. On sandpaper draw the awl only, put your finger on the blade to keep it from rotating, try it you’ll like it. Slow down, be accurate.
You are a wealth of knowledge. I can't thank you enough for your videos, they have made the process of getting started with leatherworking enjoyable rather than daunting. I'm a Brit but I now live in the US so hearing you talk is a special treat for me, you are well spoken and could get a job on Blue Peter any day!
😂😂😂 don't think I could cut it on live TV! But good to hear that the videos are helping you 👍
Some of my awl experience: I had a very good and sharp awl that I managed to break off right where it is embedded in the haft. I acquired a replacement haft with a chuck ( sort of like a pegging awl without the leather piece on the back end) and installed the broken awl. It is short but very fine - I use it for thin projects and it is very nice. I took the old haft and removed the broken end. I inserted a stitching needle eye first in the old haft - I use this for backstitches or any other stitch where I don't want the sharp edged of the cutting the stitch already in the hole.
Great video, I’ve just started to learn and this is very well explained
Do you ever use a Dremel? I'd like to learn how better to use mine and to use it for more situations.
Great tutorial as usual - thanks again.
Thanks June, glad you like the video 🙂
Thanks Jo. Helped me a lot.
Great video!...
Thank you 🙂
Excellent video, Jo. You are a great instructor.
Are you filing on both the forward and back strokes? Files only cut on the forward stroke. To put pressure on them during the backstroke quickly dulls them . Your file will stay sharper much longer if you don't press down on the backstroke. Of course, if you're only using it to sharpen a couple of awls a year, it probably doesn't matter much. ; )
Hi Richard glad you like the video 🙂
This is a myth
Thanks for another excellent video. Do you ever stitch with bristles (boar, wire or mono-filament)? If you do I would love to see your method for making the tapered thread and tying it on to the the bristle.
Hi John glad you like the video 👍 I've not heard of that method of stitching before, think I've got some research to do....
hmm so i got a question, is a sword awl or a straight awl more usefull ? and so far i understand it the awl size should fit than to the size of tool what you use or ?
sorry my english is not so good, but i can say i like the english what you speak :)
Jo - Can you link me to the awl blade and handle, please?
Hiya yeah, they are www.abbeyengland.com/awl-blade-998.html and www.abbeyengland.com/awl-handle-999.html
Great video! What is on your strop board? Thanks
It's a mix of carborundum powder and tallow, you can also use jewelers paste.
Thank You, This answered some of my questions posted elsewhere. So is the diameter of the finished awl blade the same size all the way down it's length? It looks like it but with your use of the word 'transitioned' I thought perhaps it might still have a bit of a length taper of some sort, Yes ? No ?
Hi Michael, generally there is a taper towards the end of the blade. When the blades are new, generally they have quite a large shoulder area (depending on the brand this will vary) that needs to be smoothed out so the blade can easily go through the leather. Hope that makes sense....
@@JHLeather Thank you for the reply. With your description I have to wonder if your Awls wind up being a little different than ones here in the U.S.. You mentioned the source of your tools and I looked them up finding they are a wholesale outfit, not open to straight sales. The smooth part makes sense. What you actually have to work with before customizing is the question in my mind. But, probably it's all rhetorical anyway; after all one is limited by his sources and need to make do. I note you also give your awl a slight twist counterclockwise before removing it from the leather; to make the hole a bit larger for needle insertion perhaps?
You can open an account online with them in the 'my account' part of their website. Yes, it just allows the needles/thread to go through the leather a bit more easily.
Nice video great close ups one comment when you use a file You should only use forward strokes not back-and-forth
This is a myth with modern steels
ruclips.net/video/p5Vkw9PWlIo/видео.html
Wrong, secure the file and work the awl as if you are using a stone. Lock your wrist and sharpen without dropping your hand, one straight motion on the file and on the stone. On sandpaper draw the awl only, put your finger on the blade to keep it from rotating, try it you’ll like it. Slow down, be accurate.