YES! We love when you give up this amount of detail. For me it gives me a clear head going into a build knowing just that much more knowledge. You alone have taught we so much more than anyone has ever taught me! Thank you for you expertise! :D
Question for the next video: Based on your other recent video talking about a no budget 4age, what would be the ideal NA engine for both of you on a small to mid budget build for a daily/weekend warrior? Say 4-8kAUD not including the cost of the initial donor engine? 16v vs 20v? Small port vs Big port? What after market parts would you prioritise; rods ,cams, pistons, itbs vs stock intake etc? Assuming the engine is run on an aftermarket ecu, the 4-8k is specifically for the cost of parts and machine work for the engine. Keen to hear what your thoughts are.
I like this question too. Give us information that anyone who isn’t an engine builder can use as direction for their builds and get best use of the money and longevity from the motor. I started off with this plan but without the information despite my research things have escalated. My engine is ready next week and bill will be circa $10k - $12k from engine shop, then my additional parts bill was $10k
I would love to hear his take on machining ahead which is warped like a banana. Does he measure for the cam journals being out of line before decking a head? My understanding is that if you don't bend the head back into shape and you just surface it, you end up with a flat head with a misaligned cam surface. I feel like a lot of people miss this.
@@1magnit That's my general understanding as well. Either using a TIG to generate heat in key areas to warp it or heating it and literally putting in on a press to bend it.
@@802Garage Gotto heat the whole thing evenly with a gas burner, there's a certain temp you've got to bring it up to then let it cool. I watched it being done with a JZ head but never done it myself.
Can you guys do another video on your recipe for a long rod short stroke 4age. I'm currently collecting bits, from a 2013 forum post using a 7afe block and nissan pulsar rods to get a 1.78:1 rod ratio
Had my crank worked on at a crankshaft shop, and i still found debris and gunk at those crank galley caps. (I had to use a bent straw for the brake clean). Even the blocks had a bunch of metal slurry still leftover. Post cleaning after machining work is key.
That's an interesting question and for me personally I have not hit the limit of a main cap yet because I have taken control of my harmonics, I see the mistake from people using ladder caps and main girdles because they have main cap issues caused by harmonics The harmonics vibrate the bolts loose and cause microwelding "fretting" across the cap face to block and people assume this is some weakness or block twist due to power and it's incorrect it is harmonics My ati damper takes back control of 1st 2nd and 3rd wave harmonics and corrects so many related issues, Ross dampers can only address 1st wave if it's a bonded damper the same goes for bhj and oem, my ati damper can address 1,2 and 3rd wave and fluid damper can address every single harmonic wave In closing because I can go on forever I will see if this motor holds together without a girdle and be checking bearing wear and assessing if a girdle is needed in the future moving forwards
The only cam shaft manufacturer I know that makes a "billet" cam is gsc power division and they are a true billet steel cam ( non self lubricating) and require DLC coated buckets for cam followers to survive I use kelford cams in all my engine builds and they are cast but ground to keep factory base circles so hardness is retained Brings me to regrindes, my opinion on them is if you get lucky with the hardness on all the lobes you will have a cam that survives but of you get unlucky you will get cam lobe whipe out and that's a bad time 😅
Polishing is done with a tape, there's no media blasting used. It's all bollocks. The passages should be first cleaned in the parts wash and then after with air.
You misunderstood what we mean by polishing Mat sends his crankshafts out to get superfinished to help reduce cavitation He does this with brand new crankshafts like this one and the same goes with second hand shafts after linishing Mat goes the extra mile with the engines he builds He doesn’t talk bollocks 😂
@@NEVER-LIFT Cavitation doesn't happen in oil. It happens in water where the pressure reduces to a point where it vapourises then the bubbles collapse. It doesn't happen with oil. He's pulling your tits.
YES! We love when you give up this amount of detail. For me it gives me a clear head going into a build knowing just that much more knowledge. You alone have taught we so much more than anyone has ever taught me! Thank you for you expertise! :D
Thanks brother I truly appreciate that and I hope that with enough videos people will be empowered to build their own motors and just give it a go 😊
Question for the next video: Based on your other recent video talking about a no budget 4age, what would be the ideal NA engine for both of you on a small to mid budget build for a daily/weekend warrior? Say 4-8kAUD not including the cost of the initial donor engine? 16v vs 20v? Small port vs Big port? What after market parts would you prioritise; rods ,cams, pistons, itbs vs stock intake etc?
Assuming the engine is run on an aftermarket ecu, the 4-8k is specifically for the cost of parts and machine work for the engine. Keen to hear what your thoughts are.
I like this question too. Give us information that anyone who isn’t an engine builder can use as direction for their builds and get best use of the money and longevity from the motor.
I started off with this plan but without the information despite my research things have escalated. My engine is ready next week and bill will be circa $10k - $12k from engine shop, then my additional parts bill was $10k
Awesome technical videos. Zf8 build or b58 build in the future?
I would love to hear his take on machining ahead which is warped like a banana. Does he measure for the cam journals being out of line before decking a head? My understanding is that if you don't bend the head back into shape and you just surface it, you end up with a flat head with a misaligned cam surface. I feel like a lot of people miss this.
Warped heads are straightend by careful heating. You can't machine a warped head because the cam will bind up.
This is something I have to deal with alot and I should do a video on this because I have examples in the shed atm
@@1magnit That's my general understanding as well. Either using a TIG to generate heat in key areas to warp it or heating it and literally putting in on a press to bend it.
@@mtperformanceengines3508 That would be great let us know.
@@802Garage Gotto heat the whole thing evenly with a gas burner, there's a certain temp you've got to bring it up to then let it cool. I watched it being done with a JZ head but never done it myself.
Good point and no doubt alot of builders don't do what is necessary
Can you guys do another video on your recipe for a long rod short stroke 4age. I'm currently collecting bits, from a 2013 forum post using a 7afe block and nissan pulsar rods to get a 1.78:1 rod ratio
Garage4age has covered it, and there’s off shelf parts available on mrpltd website
Engines are pretty dirty after the hot tank at the machine shop. It’s pretty much necessary to wash them down
Had my crank worked on at a crankshaft shop, and i still found debris and gunk at those crank galley caps. (I had to use a bent straw for the brake clean).
Even the blocks had a bunch of metal slurry still leftover. Post cleaning after machining work is key.
Is it better to use brand new oem head and rod bolts or arp?
Arp every time, please get a machine shop to resize everything after getting the arp bolts fitted that is a critical step
Ok, thoughts on crank girdels and caps for mains, Did not see any on the 800hp engine. Is it a waste of money?
That's an interesting question and for me personally I have not hit the limit of a main cap yet because I have taken control of my harmonics, I see the mistake from people using ladder caps and main girdles because they have main cap issues caused by harmonics
The harmonics vibrate the bolts loose and cause microwelding "fretting" across the cap face to block and people assume this is some weakness or block twist due to power and it's incorrect it is harmonics
My ati damper takes back control of 1st 2nd and 3rd wave harmonics and corrects so many related issues, Ross dampers can only address 1st wave if it's a bonded damper the same goes for bhj and oem, my ati damper can address 1,2 and 3rd wave and fluid damper can address every single harmonic wave
In closing because I can go on forever I will see if this motor holds together without a girdle and be checking bearing wear and assessing if a girdle is needed in the future moving forwards
An excellent video!! This is compulsory viewing for apprentices. Trade schools must have this as a learning resource. Cheers
Another video with some very relevant information great work boys👍.
Also. What is your take on cut cams vs billet cams?
The only cam shaft manufacturer I know that makes a "billet" cam is gsc power division and they are a true billet steel cam ( non self lubricating) and require DLC coated buckets for cam followers to survive
I use kelford cams in all my engine builds and they are cast but ground to keep factory base circles so hardness is retained
Brings me to regrindes, my opinion on them is if you get lucky with the hardness on all the lobes you will have a cam that survives but of you get unlucky you will get cam lobe whipe out and that's a bad time 😅
Polishing is done with a tape, there's no media blasting used. It's all bollocks. The passages should be first cleaned in the parts wash and then after with air.
I've never removed those plugs either, you'll just end up doing damage for no reason.
You misunderstood what we mean by polishing
Mat sends his crankshafts out to get superfinished to help reduce cavitation
He does this with brand new crankshafts like this one and the same goes with second hand shafts after linishing
Mat goes the extra mile with the engines he builds
He doesn’t talk bollocks 😂
@@NEVER-LIFT Cavitation doesn't happen in oil. It happens in water where the pressure reduces to a point where it vapourises then the bubbles collapse. It doesn't happen with oil. He's pulling your tits.
@@NEVER-LIFT It's all bollocks. No such thing as cavitation with oil in an engine. It only happens in water.