DIY variable bench power supply (less than 10$)
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 18 сен 2024
- Easy to make, homemade PC variable bench power supply. It has a variable current limit and variable output from 1 to 26 volts. Costs less than 10 dollars to make. You have all the links below. Remember to check my PATREON page and webpage of the tutorial. Also check the power supply moudle coupons below. Thank you!
🔬PRINTERS FDM
-------------------------------------
Artillery Sidewinderr X1 (364€ Aliexpress): s.click.aliexp...
Artillery GENIUS (307€ Aliexpress): s.click.aliexp...
Creality3D Ender 3 Pro (230€ Aliexpress): s.click.aliexp...
Anycubic Mega S (206€ Aliexpress): s.click.aliexp...
ELEGOO NEPTUNE 2 (186€ Aliexpress): s.click.aliexp...
Prusa i3 MK3S Clone (393€ Aliexpress): s.click.aliexp...
Creality CR-10 V3 (480€ Aliexpress): s.click.aliexp...
🔅PRINTERS RESIN
-------------------------------------
ELEGOO Mars Pro (208€ Aliexpress): s.click.aliexp...
ELEGOO Saturn MSLA (480€ Aliexpress): s.click.aliexp...
Anycubic Photon Mono (199€ Aliexpress): s.click.aliexp...
Creality HALOT ONE (275€ Aliexpress): s.click.aliexp...
Help my projects on Patreon : / electronoobs
my Q&A page: electronoobs.co...
Canal en Español: / electronoobs en español
-----------------VIDEOS-----------------
Current meter: • Arduino based current ...
-----------------LINKS-------------------
DIY bench power source webpage: www.electronoob...
---------------MATERIAL---------------
Full part list: www.electronoob...
Boost/Buck converter: rover.ebay.com...
---------------DOWNLOADS----------
Schematic: www.electronoob...
Case plans: www.electronoob...
Front label: www.electronoob...
PRINTERS
-------------------------------------
Ender 3(167€): www.gearbest.c...
SparkMaker SLA: www.gearbest.c...
Crealitu CR10: www.gearbest.c...
Coupon code: "11CR10EU" or "11CR10US"
ANET E10 (219$): www.gearbest.c...
Coupon code: "Anete10us"
TEVO Tarantula (175$): www.gearbest.c...
Coupon code: "Tarantulaus"
Creality CR10 MINI: www.gearbest.c...
COUPON: CR10MINI
Anet A8: www.gearbest.c...
Coupon code: "A8KIDA"
Like share and subscribe to motivate me. Thank you
You should add a high power dummy load on the power rail (in this case red 5V) to keep the power supply a little bit more stable for low amounts of current. I forgot to mention that.
OK, got you!
At 6:28, I'd like to know what is the software you used to create that diagram, please.
I built this power supply a year ago, adding dummy load burns the connection wires , the load resistor is burned , and DC 400v capacitor also burned, it's not suitable for lab purposes.
I tried removing short-circuit protection ic but mains supply is shorted I don't know why but it's lethal man.
Sounds like you did something wrong, the resistance of your load might have been too big.
karlpc200 nope, I watched so many vids in utube they are using 10ohm resistor .
There are only two things I would change about this design. Some power supplies require a minimum load on the 5v or 12v rail to keep the voltage outputs in range, so you should use a high-power dissipation resistor or a small static load to keep the PSU stable. In my case, I used an extra fan and some bright white LEDs to illuminate my workspace. The fan draws 12v current and the LEDs draw 5v.
Second, since all of the ground lines are the same anyway, you may as well get a piece of aluminum or copper bar, drill holes along it, screw all of your negative terminals to it in a row, then connect all of the ground lines to this metal bar. That way, each negative terminal can have access to all of the ground lines, and you don't have to worry about partitioning out your ground lines according to which Vout you hope your highest current draw will be on..
I have 2 10 w 10 v load resistors and an extra fan is that to much? and can you use a extra capacitor to smooth out the signal?
You can always set up fan to suck up soldering fumes on top of the unit.
Brilliant tips!
Please consider a short video on this subject.
Cheers m8
@@cri8tor that would be nice
@@konyaelod Yea I would love if Jaden made the video showcasing his tips, but yea....too late
I would ask you tho, Jaden, are you talking about copper ground bus bar ? I was searching for it on Google and it seems to be what you are referring to in your second tip, care to elaborate ?
Nice production quality, and effort.
FYI the PWM SMPS controller circuit designed into ATX power supplies only uses 1 rail for the 2 comparators and feedback circuit. This means that all other voltage rails are regulated through magnetic coupling only. Most of these ATX bench supplies eventually fail because of this configuration. These supplies are designed as cheaply as possible for a very specific type of load. The load must always draw more current from the main rail as it is designed. The main rail is the rail with the highest current rating. If you understand this circuit topology you will also see why the extra voltage rails appear to drift a small amount as the load changes. Some supplies use additional linear regulators to limit this issue. Regardless, if you try to pull a considerable current from one of the extra rails while the main rail has a lower load, the SMPS controller doesn't have the ability to monitor and compensate for it directly. This is an easy way to cause the circuit to fail.
If you want to understand SMPS controllers in depth the simplest starting point is a "Peak Mode" controller. These only have 1 comparator and feedback loop. They are far more simple to understand. Most 5v car-type phone chargers use the simplest configuration possible. These devices usually come with a MC34063 chip in a simple 9 component DC to DC Buck Converter configuration. The next easiest Peak Mode controller to find and modify are the power bricks for laptops/printers. You can make simple adjustable power supplies out of all of these by themselves by just adding a potentiometer in place of one of the feedback resistors.
I've uploaded a couple examples before. I'm none monotized and no affiliation links. I'm just here to make friends and check out what other people with similar interests are doing :)
Subscribed.
All the best, -Jake
Thank you for your sincere comment!
Very helpful to know... Question... What if I only used the main rail and just varied that
@@ELECTRONOOBS can u change the current? If yes min/ max
Yes of course, ALL power supplies are like that, because Jake knows them all. Especially this antiquated TL494 flyback design he's obviously talking about. Sorry, I don't mean it badly ... even in 1990 there was feedback on ALL low-voltage outputs possible. It then leads to an emergency shutdown if it is misused.
... or ATX1 and cheap, it doesn't matter ... any PC power supply ... the whole thing is a stupid idea to build a laboratory power supply with it. Including the *chopper* , uh I mean DC/DC converter.
Who comes up with such nonsense? Actually, I say the same thing as Jake, but without flowers. I think that's an absolutely bad idea. A laboratory power supply, like proper measuring instruments, is a basic component of a laboratory. Without it, proper work is almost impossible and a torture. So why torpedo your own fun and success by saving money at the wrong end?
Warning, wisdom: What do you need to build a decent power supply? A better power supply! And a decent measuring device that can tell you what kind of junk ... or not ... you've built.
Edit: By the way, what also belongs to a do-it-yourself construction is a comprehensive measurement protocol. Otherwise the video is just a fairy tale hour ... at least when it comes to power supplies, the key data such as stability and ripple are important and worth knowing for the viewer. Really useless and strangely enough nobody does that with these botch power supplies. I wonder why?;)
@@dieSpinnt you sound like one of those guys that has all the $$$$$$"laboratory spec" gear but cant build shit ahahha ..... i dont see a problem using an atx supply and a cheap meter for diy stuff like playing with arduinos or repairing and tinkering with your own stuff, now if if you have a company and do circuit design or repairs for a living then maybe a quality comercial power supply would be recommended. as far as stability i did not see any deviations in voltage, the meter may be innacurate but it would display voltage chages if there were any and ripple is very easily minimized with a capacitor. i am sure nobody will be using a diy power supply to launch a rocket or to control a nuclear power plant.
Great project. Last week I found working ATX power supply on the street and I want to make an adjustable power supply. Your tutorial is the best one I have found :D thank you very much! Amazing work!
Nice guide. I followed it and built my own variable power supply, but put it in a nice metal case I got on ebay. Thanks for the lesson and the good explanations.
I made it and it works PERFECTLY , thank you for this tutorial ;)
Great video tutorial.
Thank you for posting all the helpful links and for taking the time to record, edit and post your project.
There are many of us who appreciate the effort it takes to create content on multiple sites.
Cheers
The Buck boost converter is too small for most ATX power supplies. I found one at Banggood that is 600 watts that will handle the amperage from the ATX power supply. Neat project.
Excellent video, by watching I was able to resolve my wiring issue with the same V/A meter. Thanks. Keep broadcasting
The only issue I have with SMPS is the fact that you can't really do anything with an oscilloscope unless you use an isolation transformer. I built my power supply with a linear transformer. I just used an MOT rewound to 24v.
I've built a very similar power supply based off a 450W ATX. It's smaller because I cut holes in the power supply box itself.
Yours looks great.
I don't think you will get the full range of voltage unless you vary the input voltage into the step up, step down converter. Same for the amperage. It would be better to find an ATX power supply that uses the TL494 pwm chip and vary the resistance on its pin #1 with a 10k potentiometer.
or you can buy TL494 chip and do it yourself
I've got an old 200W PSU with a TL494CN pw modulator and also the TL494CN datasheet laying around somewhere. I'm going to try as soon as I have the occasion.
Unfortunately varying the voltage doesn't work that well because capacitors on the board do not allow for voltages higher than 16V usually on the 12V rail and 10V on the 5V and 3V3. Replacing the capacitor with one rated for a higher voltage might as well screw up other settings. GreatScott! tried to hack an ATX power supply to make it output a variable voltage but ran against the same problem and ultimately failed because he tinkered with it a little too much. Here is the complete video:
ruclips.net/video/oeNAhP-GIjo/видео.html
In my opinion it would be better to fine-tune the three main rails with a 10k 10 turns potentiometer each, then trust an external step up- step down converter on the 12V rail to get more precise results; or as an alternative connect the converter on the 5V rail since usually this outputs more current than the others. Also, the sheer difference in current delivered / accepted by the standard rails (12V, 5V, 3V3 with a minimum of around 8 to 10 amps) and the "non standard" rails (-5V, -12V with an absolute maximum of 1A) should be put into attention when connecting them.
Thank you for a great, helpful and informative video. It is a shame small minded people make such a fuss about your less than $10 title and completely miss the useful information. We should all be encouraged by your resourcefulness to reuse scrape and old material for our DIY projects.
Nice video nice information about the price it’s over $20 I don’t know how you came up with $10 approximately but it’s nice thank you
In my country it is near 6$
Awesome video. Thank you for presenting it in a clear and understandable fashion. The fact that you also included a computer PSU as the base supply was great since I have been a computer tech much longer than an electronics tech so PSU's I know. Now I know my next major project. :)
Will there be any problems if we use transformer as power supply for this module? Also, will we get noise free output even if we use smps as suppy?
great diy project need it on the job, build it today , works fine , but a load was needed and i like it cheap dirty and works great.
Very good. I bought my buck converter and meter from China / Hong Kong and I have a PSU somewhere. I can easily build something similar for less than £8
Recently discovered your channel. Like the videos I've watched so far. Keep up the good work.
Your videos are very informative but I am confused on some basics. For example, only one power source is used, so why not use just one black banana plug for all the dedicated voltage plugs? This would tie in with the common ground copper-bus suggested below--or have I overlooked something?
Interesting and detailed explanation, but wouldn't it be wise to put fuses somewhere in there? Just asking.
underrated channel ...
Great video. I think this will be my first electronics project
The holes for the fan should be larger. Like 6 or 8 mm or so. Have a try breathing through those 1mm holes. It's just like there are no holes. ( Though don't breath in through just drilled holes ! You'll get crap in your lungs. Got experience on that. )
Great explanation, and your website and links are great!
I clicked the like button twice.
I like the way you say converter.
Hi there. Your Schematic/Wiring Diagram has a BIG Fail (at least for maybe "newbees") - if you're wiring up following your Schematic, then I think it will blow up the Buck/Boost-Converter. Because the Red & Black wire for the Output you have reversed in your Schematic. You are doing it right in the video - but wrong in the Schematic ;-)
Im btw. in the middle of building on of those for my self.
Thx. a bunch for the video! Nice and easy to follow.
Just superb sir.a most butifullvand brilliant build.keep up the great work.
I can't tell that you're a "noob" because you did it in a professional way. :D
ANTHONY CABALLERO lol. it's for noobs not that I'm a noob. I was a noob when I've started electronoobs
You really did a great job on that power supply :D
Nice video but you really have to increase your soldering job..
My eyes are bleeding bro.
I could not agree more!
Definitely, that soldering is gash!
Great video! Questions: If you were making a bench power supply like this with a transformer instead of an ATX, and a 3-in-1 Adjustable DC Regulated Power Supply DIY Kit, how could you get 3.3, 5, and 12 volts for the fixed voltage outputs?
12/24 V, 10A LED Switchmode Powersupply with an MingHe D3806, a Fan for bigger loads and thick wire + Case
Nice build. I built something similar years back & I've always wondered why more people don't just use an old PC power supply. They are everywhere & likely won't cost anything (literally free), they have EXTREMELY clean power outputs & have built in safety features that have saved a few of my projects. I was gonna mention building a dummy load on the 5V rail for general current stability, but see where you mention it in comments. I've been thinking of trying out the Arduino on my next build so I can add some extra features like a Signal Generator for TTL & mess around with RF, PWM & FM a bit (kinda make a built in LCR & ESR meter out of it as well). Was wondering if you've done anything like that because my programming is in it's infant stage? Great vid, very clean build. Good job
love your videos.
I'm a little confused. Why do you have a switch for the variable connectors?
I got the DSW5020, the 20 amp version. Worked for awhile. Suddenly I can no longer test my laser diodes..can't get more than 1.25 amps out of it even when I set the max amps to 5. Really strange. I tried changing the power source but that did not help either. No longer works.
TKS for sharing your knowledge. So if I want to put more Ampers I have to use another device, I would like to put 13,8V with 20 Ampers is that possible? TKS.
Good and nice build my friend ...
Hi please give me some advice. I have a computer power supply that is rated at 350W. I want to put a pair of USB plugs onto it to utalize the 3.3v 20A, 5v x 20A, 5v x 2A, and the 2 x 12v x 312W outputs.
My plan is to do 2 x 5v USB, 1 x 3.3v 1 x 12 v to power a T12 soldering iron and the other a 12v a buck buck boosted supply. What would you recommended?
Wow this guy is great
Nice project, if I didn't already have a bench supply, I might try it. -- Also, I hate to say it, but sorry man, you're not going to be getting 26A out of a single 5V wire. -- You really need to pair them all up to push that much amperage through... -- Also, I doubt those banana plugs are rated for more than 10A each anyway... -- Also you should put the buck/boost converter into the airflow path of the power supply fan. (Or add another fan that cools it.)
Great job!!!
Thank you!
I LOVE THIS PROJECT :D
good job.....keep it going......
Hi, very nice video! I am planning to build up a similar one, thanks for the advice☺👍. I have a question, can I use the RM065 10k potentiometer instead of this one in the video? Thanks
Excellent
video is well done
ALL YOUR VIDEOS ARE VERY INFORMATIVE.. how to restrict current in this power supply.....
Abhin Raj the voltage converter already has some sort of current control using the third potentiometer. but you could always add a variable current circuit.
Great video! Thanks! One thing though, is the links to the parts you have are mostly gone now. The listing has ended, or there sold out, or just gone for good. Do you mind updating that page?
That thing is f*cking gorgeous, great job man!
great vid!
Here in the U.S, as of 2 min ago, it's confirmed, $13 exactly via ebay - that doesnt include shipping. Great vid tho
I have a atx power supply that will not take 6amps without turning it off then connecting the load then it works. if i dont turn it off before i connect the load it shuts down. any ideas?
Best power supply have i ever seen) like!
great video!
I like the tutorial! I'd like to know if you figured out what the center potentiometer does? I bought 3 of the boards from ebay and asked the seller what center potentiometer does. He didn't understand my question. I tried to use google translate to help with the explanation, but I never did get an answer to my question. I'm concerned about adjusting the center pot without knowing what I'm changing. Thanks for your time in replying. Keep up the great work!
ae01.alicdn.com/kf/UT8xg1BXbJXXXagOFbX3/220353225/UT8xg1BXbJXXXagOFbX3.jpg
One limits the current output so the module will have the output actiuvated but the current limited. The other one will detect the limit of current that you set and turn the module off when that limit is reached (and turn on the red LED). I recommend to leave the middle one how it is so you have the full range of output current.
A couple of questions. Why solder multiple 12v cables to the input of the converter? Why not just one 12v cable? Is it just for redundancy? Also, would you pick the the highest voltage output from the pc power supply or would it be better to pick the highest amp output on the pc supply. Last question, what is the middle potentiometer on the buck boost used for ? if the other two are used for voltage and ampage adjustment. If anyone could help me with this. It would be much appreciated!
Great video, I got an issue, using a different model lcd, looks the same but its a bit different wiring, dsn-vc288, the problem I have is that I can only seem to see volts or amps not at the same time, i have to remove the thick red wire (amps) and connect the (thin) yellow wire (volts) but cant connect them both.
I think the schematic is wrong for the vc288. The thin red+black wires supply the meter (must be 5v or more). The thick red+black measure the current in the -ve return path (so it can measure current flowing from supply module - the two thick wires are connected together by a very low ohm shunt inside the meter). The thin yellow sense wire goes to +ve terminal to measure voltage at +ve terminal. The thin black wire and the thick black wire should both be at the same 0V potential. diyprojects.eu/how-to-wire-digital-dual-display-volt-and-ammeter/
Could not get the display to show the correct Voltage or ampage, no variable power, checked all the wiring all ok ?
Can I just solder the green and black wire together? That way, it will always be turned on as soon as the PSU is turned on.The PSU already has an on/off switch after all.
So i got a holy crap idea i need info on. Computer tower with a dvr drive power supply with sound for testing everything such as car stereos ,amps, tvs and programing updates for tvs . The info i need here is how can i make and old computer into a bench power supply with the capability to to update tvs?
great stuff, but the background music is very annoying, imo.
THANK YOU MUCH . VERY USEFUL
like like like like like....!!!
thank you so much for sharing
happy building :)
Thank you very much!
Electronoobs mention not buddy :)
Hello,
I did everything like described in the video but when i turn on the power supplie it starts workind and then it shuts down automatically. I can tell by the fan that as just the time to start. I Checked the connections and the wiring twice. ANY idea ? Btw thank you for this great tutorial !
Hey man, you should you a dummy load...like an extra fan ou a car bulb lamp. The power supply shuts off because is no load and automatic shuts off. Trie to connect something in the 12 v or 5 v and see if shuts down...good luck
@@droquesteni Hey thank you for your answer ! I tried to had a dummy load on the 5v rail but it didn't helped. So I rechecked everything and made some tests by eliminating the components one by one. It appears that the problem come from the digital display. Everything works fine when I by pass it.
I have 3 of them so I tried with each one, and the atx always shuts down...
Maybe I'm wiring it wrong but I did excatly the same wiring as it is in the video. I'm a bit confused here, just can't figure it out...
Thanks you for your help
@@raonimoisan4614 no problem. So if your problem is from the display, be aware that if you buy this king of display lcd on ebay they are different! I realized that the display i bought have the same 2 connections BUT the connection to the amp meter the 2 large cables red and black if for only measurement of the amps! The other connection have 3 wires red, black and yeallow. So this connetion red and black is for feed the lcd to 5v, the yellow wire if for volts measurement! So, yellow wire to + of the dc boost for example, to the 2 large wires, red wire to the - of the boost and the black wire to the ouput you want measure... hope that helps! take care!
@@raonimoisan4614 Chances are that you're wiring your LCD the wrong way. I had the same issue, then a more careful sheet reading and a correct wiring fixed the problem.
Less than $10??? The first item on that list is $35.99!
I suspect this is one of those "Less than $10 if you already have all the parts lying around" kind of deals.
he does say he picked it up as scrap for $2
Yeah, same than "How to build sports car less than $100". Then repaints Lamborghini that he already own..
Guys, I recommend you to search for local scrapyards. Depends on where you live. For a brand new PC you should definitely use a brand new 30$ power supply. But this project is made with a power supply from year 2000 or so… You can easily find those for 2 or 3$ because are old, low power (400W which now days is low) and the connectors are not useful any more. I can assure you I haven’t spent more than 10$ for this project. Plywood is 2$ a square meter so… and all the extra components are listed above. Thank you for everything, have a nice day.
Isaac Kvasager yup
You are doing a really interesting and well done videos, congrats!!
Thank you very much!
What if we use bigger potentiometer with different value?
I clicked the like button like crazy two times.. joking :)) . nice vid and project.
LOL. Thank you very much!
Nice job. I have most of this built previously but liked your buck con. better. It looks like your schematic shows a black wire on the positive output of the buck. Is that correct, it does not match video connections. :)
One thing that should be stated is that ATX computer power supplies have minimum load requirements, and a lot of times won't regulate properly if the loads on them are too small.
Qumefox luckily the voltage converter regulates the output depending on the load .
Mine had too high voltage on 5V output so i've added linear regulator for internal electronics :D
It's normal the the power rails has a small higher voltage as rated, because under load there is a small voltage drop. So you should not regulate the 5v down exactly 5v. For example as you can read here www.allaboutcircuits.com/textbook/digital/chpt-3/logic-signal-voltage-levels/ (TTL gates operate on a nominal power supply voltage of 5 volts, +/- 0.25 volts).
Also there is inside the power supply normal 2 pots to regulate the 5v and 12v rails. BUT!!! Inside is high voltage I would not recommend to open it until you don't know where is the "hot" and "cold" side of the supply ... otherwise you can risk your life!!!
Well to each their own, but my experience has been that the outputs of most ATX PSU's, especially the cheap ones, are far from being clean and stable when driving no or light loads, so I always add internal resistors to whichever rails I want to use, so the PSU always sees the require minimum load for that rail no matter what when repurposing computer power supplies.
Yes, it is wise to add a dummy load to it!
Thanks
Hm. I need a power supply. But I have a PC power supply left over. And I have two voltage regulators left over from another project.
Not sure if I can get current limitations though.
Great project and very well explained. One of the best DIY variable PS videos I have seen.
Question: When I look up the DC convertor you used, it specifies the a max input current of 10A. Is it Ok to use this with the ATX PSU, as the +12V rail provides up to 8A current?
Yes it is ok. That's the max current it could withstand. If you apply less there should be no problem. Keep up!
For most electronics projects this power supply is totally overkill...
I would recommend for all beginners an linear power supply with an lm317 and a simple 30VA transformer and for $6 you can buy the kit with no case on aliexpress with free shipping :)
I just mentored folks on an intro to soldering workshop; we built an LM338 power supply that a friend sketched out. I was thinking the same thing as you, there's no need for something like this on the bench until you want to have something flashy that makes people go "Ooooooh" -But in all practicality, an LM317 or LM338 1-3A power supply can be customized with a meter, pot, and switch.
Lm317, 338 can't dissipate lots of heat when we want to draw high current say upto 2 amps @ 3.3 volts if we've designed the power supply to output upto say 30 volts because 30-3=27 volts x 2 Ampere =54 watts the regulator has to dissipate even if large heatsink+fan is used so it's better if we make upto 12 Volt output
@@amitghosh6966 Hi, indeed, it can't disipate all that power but it doesn't need to
You see, "VA" is apparent power, and it's how we aproximate the power of a inductive load, in this case, the transformer..
The real power of the transformer is around ~20W, at 15 volts, it would deliver safely around one amp of current before it would start to overheat
A second thing to take in consideration, most of those kits have a way smaller transformer (but can be bought without) and the kits themself have a max voltage output of 12V so, at 3.3V regulated set output, we whould have a drop of ~9V with a max current of 1A, it would be 9W to disipate and for a typical TO-220 package with heatsink I don't think that will be a problem for short power up applications
Great Scott?
I have question if I apply 12 5a at the input of the buck converter what is the output voltage and current
Why would a need a 5V 2A output in addition to 5V 26A? I thought that if a PSU can handle 26A, it can also handle 2A...
A few questions: I see you have two +5V outputs with different amperages so my guess is that you just connected one wire to the 2A output and 5 to the 26A one, since the total +5V of your power supply is rated 30A. Is that so?
Plus, I have a 650W power supply (+3,3/24A, +5V/30A, +12V/52A) I am thinking of using like yours, but the voltage with the more amps is the +12V one, so I guess the dummy load would have to go there; but does it matter where you put it on the circuit and its value? Because you only mention it in your comment but not in the vid, so I wonder.
Thankew for such wonderful DIY. My SMPS is from 2000 as well however my capacitors near the AC supply end were burned , they are 200v 330uf. I tried to search for these online but found none. If you had faced this I wonder huv did you find these capacitors.
Great video! You said a dummy load should be applied to each of the three fixed voltage outputs? What are their values? I've seen a different video you (Sorin) did, using only one dummy load on the 5V line (no need for a load on the 3.3V and 12V lines). Please comment.
Thank you!
how do you get 5V 2A? or is it -5V? Furthermore, there are some differences between current label from PSU and your printed label. was it misprinted or does it really provide 20A @ 3.3V and 17A @ 12V? your PSU only provide 14A @ 3.3V and 8A @ 12V.
I know that i am really late but i wanted to ask if i wanted finer control for the voltage how could i do that? Could i just add a second pontentimeter of higher resistance value to the original one?
I built one of these a while back and the PSU killed itself. Seems your supposed to add a
constant load which is always on? Do you know what it kills and why it needs this
dummy load? Thanks
Hello. Your tutorial is great,but i have some questions: i have some power suplys from old laptops, one of them with 15v, and is small,perfect for this project. Do you think is possible to use it,instead of a desktop power suply?? Another question, if i going to use the laptop psu, do you think i can connect the volt/ampmeter directly to 15v input,because it doesn´t have 5v power rail like desktop psu?From i understand in specifications,it says:"Power supply range: DC4-30.0V" And 3rd question, do you think i can use this project(made from desktop or laptop,doesnt matter) to detect shorts in circuits,like laptop boards?
Just what I've been looking for! However, I am a noob and a little confused. Does the output enable switch in the schematic have to be 'ON' to get variable output from the buck-boost converter? Also, will the LCD function when that switch is 'OFF'? I know, very stupid questions that are covered by the video but my infant brain won't recognize them! Many thanks!
7:05 dangerous.really should use a ring tongue terminal au.element14.com/amp-te-connectivity/323784/crimp-terminal-ring-12mm-yellow/dp/1056385 or at least instead of twisting the wire, make it a Y sharp twist and make a circle into it so the screw and nuts goes in the middle
9:56 you should also either mount or insulate the buck board from moving and possibly shorting out anywhere.
In Jordan the volt/current lcd alone is 8 JDs = 11.25 $
Your video has inspired me to build a similar power supply. My question is: the wires from the Pots look to be a much smaller gauge than for example the (2) 12V wires from the power supply entering the converter. Does the full voltage and current when amplified pass through these Pot wires, and are they sufficient? And can you please tell me the gauges of the wires, excluding the power supply wires? Thanks and yes the video is GREAT!
The potentiometer wires are signal wires. No high current will pass through those wires, don't worry.
Thank you for the info! I'm now just waiting on a couple more pieces to the puzzle (they are on a slower boat from China).
I received the Ammeter/Voltmeter DSN-VC288 as Linked in your web page. However the color code on your schematic is not the same and the 2 wires Red and Black on my part are considerably larger than the Red, Yellow, and Black on this. Seems to be quite different than yours. Could you check the DSN-VC288 that I was directed to and verify if it is correct for this project and if a new color coded schematic is needed. Thanks!
Just substitute the blue wire in my schematic with the yellow one. Connect the large BLACK and RED wires to 5V and the other BLACK RED and YELLOW as in my schematic but with yellow instead of blue. Keep up!
Electronoobs
, first of all, great video and it is very inspiring. However, please correct me if I am wrong, but I think the output terminal connection to the volt/amp meter are switched around on you diagram right? ..which must be a mistake ? ....I dont have the component at hand (yet) just watching your diagram and the products from ebay...i could be wrong
Te diagram is correct. The problem is that there are different colors cables for other modules on eBay... Sometimes they use yellow, blue and so on...
@@ELECTRONOOBS , sry i meant the boost converter output side towards the meter, the image is mirrored so it is bit difficult to se. But as I see it from the picture then the terminal close o the pot meter is + positive (around 6:42 in the vid), and the one close to LM2577S is -negative, right?.
is there a safety just in case I accidentally short the power supply when working on something. plus I have 2 10 Ohm 10 v dummies and a extra fan is that too much? can you put a extra capacitor to smooth out the signal?
With no isolation you will have a bomb if you use test equipment that is earth ground referenced with that supply.
thank you so much for the video bro , tell me can it resists for short ??
Great vid! Thanks!
Can I solder a normal 100 kOhm resistor to a 100 kOhm multiturn potentiometer in order to get to 200 kOhm? Can't find a 200 kOhm multiturn potentiometer! My step up booster uses the 204w trimmpot
Love how it's impossible to separate "DIY variable power supply" from "I took a PC power box and put some banana plugs on it", thanks, clickbait culture :))))))
great work thanks for the share
1. The +12v of the power supply is rated at 8A and the buck boost supports only 4A. Isn't that a problem? or is it 4 drawn not input?
2. Can you make a video of it running a 12v/24v motor at 4A? or just test it and tell me that it works
grate video
Hi, I have a voltmeter ammeter with yellow black and red wires and black and red, if I connect the way you in diagram it shorts and shuts psu,can you tell how should I connect correctly to make it work for variable output?