Humorous, clear, straight-to-the-point with some very nice ideas here. Thanks for posting this. I have all the parts to make one of these but keep putting it off. This video may inspire me to get back to work on it. Great work!
Just found your channel and just want to say I love your style, honesty and self depreciation is an extremely rare thing on YT, and everywhere else nowadays come to mention it. The added humor is a bonus that has now made me a fan and subscriber. Please keep doing what you do and thank you for your excellent content
"Words cannot capture the awe-inspiring beauty of the video showcasing the ingenious creation of a 12V energy source using nothing but scrap metal. I am incredibly grateful for the opportunity to witness such creativity and resourcefulness in action. This video not only highlights the power of human ingenuity but also serves as a reminder that beauty can be found in the most unexpected places. Thank you to the creators for sharing this remarkable project, as it truly showcases the limitless possibilities that lie within our grasp when we dare to think outside the box."
I am a bit of an electronics-project fan too and I appreciate your video. Too-many times, instructional videos turn into unnecessarily over-complicated and "waffly" rubbish. You have shown EXACTLY what is needed and WHY in one simple video. Well-done. The cameo-appearances by 'El Gato' are an excellent segue into the next scene. The wry humour is also appreciated. Thanks for a great video.
I used to install signs and used that self adhesive vinyl fairly often, for future reference if you make up a spray bottle with water and add literally one tiny drop of dawn dishwashing soap (no more than the smallest drop!) you can spray the solution liberally to the back of the vinyl and the surface it is to be adhered to giving you the ability to move it around and get it exactly where you want it, then you squeegee any air or water bubbles out and it sticks very well, won't work on a porous surface like that wood unless it's sanded and sealed though. Hope it helps in any future projects
Hehe, seems like that water with a bit of detergent is common in applying those adhesive graphics. I learned that long time ago during some summer job and then used this technique to put company stickers on our service car 😁
I also have used the same volt amp meter for my small diy project and yes it adds an unwanted voltage drop even at 1 amps but I still used it because my build has an average current draw of 150mA - 300mA. Also your cat is a really good assistant
maybe you could do a conversion using a 19 V laptop supply, put it in a wooden box add the volt/ammeter binding posts. With a 90+ Watt power supply you can still get quite useful current, and of course this is 100% safe!
The simplicity of the narration and the presentation make this familiar subject enjoyable. I think it's worth the holy bible for novices like me. Thank you Sorin.
Thank you for taking the time to do this. Just made my own. Now be able to use it to power my other DIY projects (RSU, magnetic stirrer, photoetch shaker etc, etc).
Thank you very much, this video is very informative and straightforward without any unnecessary information. I like the idea that you use the ATX's normal outputs as well. The way you do the layout is also very practical for me.
Sorin, I want to thank you for this. I have a car subwoofer with a class D car audio amplifier to power it. I have been trying to get a reasonable power supply for some time for it, but lately, I cant get anything that is either outrageously expensive, or outrageously underpowered. PC power supplies are able to provide the wattage, but its difficult to provide all that amperage through those wires, this actually gives me a solution to my amperage problems with the amplifier. The power supply cuts off when normally plugged in because it cant provide the massive amount of wattage but with all of the wires together in one place, it allows me to have FAR MORE amperage to the amplifier, therefore allowing me to drive it harder. This is important because I DJ and I need really loud speakers in certain situations. This is awesome!
Great video, I've been watching this a few times because I have an old computer with an ATX power supply, and this video was a great reference. I'm almost done now, I just wanted to add a warning to anybody out there that the heat sinks on these models may not be grounded and while it didn't kill me, was a big surprise
You have not used -12 volt in series with +12 volt because -12 volts has only 0.5 amp. If you use it in series you get 24 volts but 0.5 amp only as output.
Nice video! It's always nice to watch someone who knows what they are doing. Since I am not one of them, I am now convinced to just buy a power supply instead.
Due to short circuit protection -12 vots handels only 0.5 amp current if you exceed this current SMPS will turn off. For this you can bypass the protection circuit and use its full power even in +12 -12 rail.
Nice, you might want to add reverse current protection to the output, I destroyed my LTC3780 by connecting the output to a battery with higher voltage.
You have prompted me to look into doing something similar with one of my old PC power supplies, good work. Love your feline helper too, every electronics channel should have one.
Excellent presentation! I do have a question...what are the maximum number of amps it can produce and is there anyway to wire it so it would produce the full 19 amps? Thank you!
Hi. Each output of a PC power supply (3.3V, 5V, 12V) has a specified maximum current. if you connect the internal wires directly to the binding posts, each output will deliver its maximum current (if the power supply doesn't have any problems). but if you redirect an output, let's say the 12V output, through a DC converter to adjust the voltage and current, then the maximum current will depend on the type of the converter, the adjusted voltage and the efficiency.
I built exactly a same bench power supply. But I also added a relay and switch before the variable power output so its easier to set the required voltage before hand and then switch On the load.
@@amansingh-ph7zz the diagram at 7:47 in above video. Connect a 12V relay, coil (with a parallel diode in reverse) to the 12V supply from the PS Board. Add an On/Off switch in series to this coil. On the relay's contacts side, connect the DC converter output lines between 'C' and 'NO' Note: The Relay contact should handle higher current than the power supply's output current.
Very nice job. I think the cat is bored and is trying to tell you he's looking for a project to help with. I modified one a few years ago and included a variable CC/CV buck/boost module with digital screen and separate +/- terminal posts for adjustable output. I also have 4 separate voltage + output terminals and 1 common - terminal, all are constantly live, but I added a rotary switch to switch the boost/buck converter on/off, and the rotary switch also connects to a mini volt meter display so I can view each output terminal voltage separately, or to turn the volt meter off. I was able to keep the case, fan, input power socket, main switch as original, and I mounted all the terminals, boost/buck, volt meter, usb socket and sb/on led's and sb switch on the top panel. It took a fair bit of careful planning (ocd) but it all came out very nicely👍
@@wwaldes No problem, I always try to reply to comments. I don't speak Polish, so I have to use a translator. Here's a link below to my ATX power supply video as promised. The video is in English, so you can try turning on subtitles, or use a translator, or you may already understand English. Hope you like how mine turned out. ruclips.net/video/CN5pFx_Iol8/видео.htmlsi=aIU8FtwMHiwLj-Mg
@@simonilett998 Dziękuję, oczywiście znam sposób tłumaczenia, i wiem że nie mówisz po polsku zasiadam do oglądania. Mam kilka zasilaczy opartych o ridena, np. 6018, 6006, 6012. i inne. Długo zajmuję się elektroniką, ale zawsze wspaniałą przygodą jest dla mnie spojrzenie kogoś z innej części świata na różne tematy elektroniczne. Dziękuje jeszcze raz. Pozdrawiam🖐
Excellent video - entertaining and easy to follow. I have a newer 700W power supply from a tower PC I no longer use. It comes with a slew of wire connectors so I am hoping to make a companion pox that will interface with it somehow instead of modifying it like you have done.
The video is great. Nicely explained and with a touch of humor. Even we amateurs can learn something. I have one question, so I would like an explanation. Why are you using a 10W and 47R resistor (for voltage stabilization)?
Hi. The power supply needs to detect a load always connected, otherwise the outputs will not be stable, or it may turn off. the ceramic resistor + volt/ammeter display + the fan will create a load always connected.
You should look up the datasheet for the voltage regulator Ic's built in the Cpu Psu. Many have a max output of 30-40 volts. Make sure downstream caps can handle the max volts plus 10%. The datasheet will tell you what pins on the Ic connect to volt sense resistors. Remove the resistors and connect wires for multi turn pots. The datasheet will also give a voltage output range and corresponding resistor values. If say the 12v regulator can operate up to 40v's and it takes a 10ohm resistor to do so or a 20ohm resistor to reach 24v's then a 30ohm pot should reach around 36v's. Do this for all of the outputs. The neg 12v is now -36v and the pos 12v is +36v giving you a 0-72vdc total output. All for the cost of a few pots, wire and possibly some caps. Why add a voltage regulator to a voltage regulator?
@@TheBlackManitu If your trying to get more amps out than the PSU would normally provide, look into current sourcing. The 2N3055 in a To-3 pack could be helpful. If you just want to vary what is being provided look into current regulating transistors. Like the LM317. Tons of at hand info. Different current loads, adjust ability, temp displacement, max min volts etc.
I am actually doing the same thing, had it on my bench for a while waiting for a case design I like. In addition to 12V,3V and 5V I also need adjustable as well. But I am using a 1500W DC-DC booster 10V-60V IN and 12-90V out and 30AMP Max. SInce I need from time to time 48V, 60V to test electric mower boards. I have a 1500W 12V PSU that has a rail leaking so it no longer works on PC.
Can someone please elaborate more on the c.c protection? I am awaiting for the parts to assemble the similar one. But I am not sure what kind of protection you are talking about? I was planning to use it as battery charger etc.
Nice video. But you never did say why you didn't use the +12v and -12V to make a 24v potential difference for the buck boost converter? why would that not work as well? is it because of the input range of the converter? or an efficiency trade off somewhere?
I have a question. Why do you connect a dummy load resistor to the 5V output? Even tough your Volt/Amp meter is acting like a load. I have the same ATX PSU I bought for very cheap in a new condition which I used in my DIY Lab Bench Power Supply project and I have to say it is very cheap compared to the expensive commercial lab bench power supplies. I have built my own using a Boost Converter and a 30V Buck Converter Kit I got from Aliexpress,which is big and bulky and requires a heatsink for the transistor. It also requires to bypass the charge pump using another buck converter to get the square wave output. Since the buck converter can only run on 24VAC. Which is a concerning problem when trying to power it using an ATX PSU. In the future,I might replace the big bulky buck converter with a more efficient XL4015/XL4016 module with Boost converters connected in parallel to increase the wattage at the same voltage output.
Hi. The power supply needs to detect a load to keep the outputs stable. otherwise the voltage will not be stable when you connect a load. a resistor will be a dummy load always connected to the output with the highest current, in most Pc PSUs it's the 5V rail. the volt/ammeter and the fan are not enough, it needs a bigger load, so a ceramic resistor is ok.
@@Sorin_DIY Thats great to hear! My ATX PSU can run just about fine without any dummy load. My biggest issue I have with it so far is the Buck Converter which can only run on AC. (I actually bought it seperately as a kit and had to assemble it. Which has some problems) The Constant Current feature on it is broken. And i am planning on using a 150W Boost Converter along with a XL4016 Buck Converter. Both of them are rated at 150W,but if its exceeded it will draw heat and might require a cooling fan. Might not be a concern for me since the ATX PSU is rated at 12V 14A (thats about 168W). As long as I use it at the 30V 5A range (150W) it will run just about fine as a regular old 30V 5A lab bench power supply! I chose them at 150W because the XL4015 module cant dissipate heat at 150W,but these ones I am gonna buy can. I might also have to put some thicker wires at the outputs and inputs because its gonna draw heck a lot of current and the wires can get hot even when the output of the buck converter is shorted.
Yes. because I will never use the full power of all the outputs combined. I use one or maybe 2 outputs simultaneous with less than 10A. in idle or with a small load the power supply will remain cold.
Very nice work! I can't wait to start my own power supply (requesting the parts now...). And I love your cat ;-) And I really love that you use the 'old' power supply case, so we don't have to make a new one 👍👍
I also did one that I use often. The problem is that it doesn't have c.c. protection. I've added a fuse on mine, it's not active c.c. protection but it is better then destroying the buck converter. Anny comments?
You can make separate outputs, each one with a resistor in series, 20W and 0.5/ 1/ 2/ 3 ohms. With big loads the voltage will slightly decrease, but it will definitely limit the current.
Dear Sorin, could you give us any advice for protecting a power supply from inductive loads? Do you have any ideas/advices for this? I don't want to burn my power supply with trying BLDC motors or etc.? Thanks.
Thank you for the video! Some handsome product you created! I would like to ask the range of the variable voltage and wattage of the variable side. Is it 9-35V and 80W? Thank you.
Solo tengan algo de precaución con la precisión de la escala de corrientes de ese display., yo he comprado varios de esos y en pruebas he notado que bajo 0,5 A, las medidas que da son bastante imprecisas comparadas con las de un amperímetro externo conectado en serie a la fuente.
HI SORIn can i also use a higher resistor for the buck boost converter i have one lying around which has 48 kohm and 3 watt [ from old sony tv white] Or should i use 4 1 kohm resistor Colour code; Brown Black Black Brown Brown
48Kohm is too high, it will still have a delay, when lowering the voltage. it's better to use 4x 1Kohm resistors in series. 1Kohm resistor has the color code: brown black red gold.
Great tutorial my friend. You make it seem so simple. I think i'm gonna give it a try cause i have a couple of 800 watts atx power units sitting around. Are the components you are using for the modification suitable for any wattage capacity power supply? Thank you.
Thanks. Yes, you can use the components on any PSU, but there will be some output limitations. the DC converter for the variable output has a maximum output power of 80W, and the ammeter can measure max 10A.
As always, I love your cat. :) I've seen your other power supply conversions and I want to make one, but I have a decent sized bench-top power supply already, plus two smaller ones. I love building stuff though. I might make this one just to be doing it.
The power supply needs to detect a load always connected, otherwise the outputs will not be stable. you can connect both resistor and volt/ammeter in parallel to the same wires, or you can use separate wires to power them.
@@Sorin_DIYI apologize for being a complete newbie, this is my very first project and I'm also stuck at this same spot. It's a little hard for me to tell in the video but on the dummy load, is there a short positive wire that connects directly to a short negative wire on the resistor? Thank you in advance. Also, thank you for all the great videos, they're great for newbies like myself and you're very entertaining
Es excelente este video y mas aun porque se ve la evolución de tus trabajos...este tema las fuentes de laboratorio caseras son FUNDAMENTALES...ojala sigas creando mas modelos... saludos desde Argentina Bs As
PC power supplies need to detect a load to keep the output stable. the resistor (dummy load) + fan + volt/ammeter display create a load which is constantly connected to the power supply circuit board.
Thanks! With that potentiometer you can set the under voltage protection (UVP) for the input. You don't need to adjust it. It's useful if you power the converter with a battery that doesn't have over discharge protection.
What is the point of the 10W 47 Ohm ceramic resister? It appears to only be loading down the 5v rail and used as convenient connection for the fan and powering the meter.
Hi. The PSU needs to detect a load to keep the output power stable, otherwise some power supplies will shut down when you connect a big load, or the output will not be stable. so the resistor + fan + display are used as a dummy load always detected by the PSU. the dummy load should be connected to the output with the highest current, that's the 5V output.
Thanks. the double sided tape is not designed to transfer the heat, but it will transfer at least a part of the heat. Also the fan will help to cool everything down.
Great video! I especially like the kitty bits where (s)he knocks stuff off the table, which is a perfect demonstration of why 'Flat Earthers' are wrong: If the earth were flat, all the cats would have knocked everything off of it by now.
1:30 Is the cat also a Patron? 😀 Well, your Buck/Boost converter would not be insulating galvanically. The Buck/Boost's INPUT and OUTPUT's GND are connected, i.e. you'd have the ATX PSU's -12V potential as your Buck/Boost's "GROUND" point. That could screw up whatever you power with it, if you also use another power rail and/or GND in there. so the ATX PSU's 3.3V becomes 3.3 + 12 Volts potential relative to the Buck/Boost'ed circuit (plus you'd short out the PSU's -12V and GND). Bad things tend to happen in that situation. some "magic smoke" would leave your ATX PSU, rendering it a paperweight.
I only came here for a how-to on a power supply from a PSU, but I stayed because of your humour and your cat! And it's a great video and how-to :^)
Humorous, clear, straight-to-the-point with some very nice ideas here. Thanks for posting this. I have all the parts to make one of these but keep putting it off. This video may inspire me to get back to work on it. Great work!
Just found your channel and just want to say I love your style, honesty and self depreciation is an extremely rare thing on YT, and everywhere else nowadays come to mention it. The added humor is a bonus that has now made me a fan and subscriber. Please keep doing what you do and thank you for your excellent content
Ah... Fellow subscriber, then; despite this is the very first his video that I seen, I love his style etc and then, subscribed 🙂
"Words cannot capture the awe-inspiring beauty of the video showcasing the ingenious creation of a 12V energy source using nothing but scrap metal. I am incredibly grateful for the opportunity to witness such creativity and resourcefulness in action. This video not only highlights the power of human ingenuity but also serves as a reminder that beauty can be found in the most unexpected places. Thank you to the creators for sharing this remarkable project, as it truly showcases the limitless possibilities that lie within our grasp when we dare to think outside the box."
I am a bit of an electronics-project fan too and I appreciate your video. Too-many times, instructional videos turn into unnecessarily over-complicated and "waffly" rubbish. You have shown EXACTLY what is needed and WHY in one simple video. Well-done. The cameo-appearances by 'El Gato' are an excellent segue into the next scene. The wry humour is also appreciated. Thanks for a great video.
I used to install signs and used that self adhesive vinyl fairly often, for future reference if you make up a spray bottle with water and add literally one tiny drop of dawn dishwashing soap (no more than the smallest drop!) you can spray the solution liberally to the back of the vinyl and the surface it is to be adhered to giving you the ability to move it around and get it exactly where you want it, then you squeegee any air or water bubbles out and it sticks very well, won't work on a porous surface like that wood unless it's sanded and sealed though. Hope it helps in any future projects
Excellent tip!
Hehe, seems like that water with a bit of detergent is common in applying those adhesive graphics. I learned that long time ago during some summer job and then used this technique to put company stickers on our service car 😁
Connect the fan between +12 and +5 V . Check and choose polarity 7V cc . I like your assistant !
Very clever!
I also have used the same volt amp meter for my small diy project and yes it adds an unwanted voltage drop even at 1 amps but I still used it because my build has an average current draw of 150mA - 300mA.
Also your cat is a really good assistant
maybe you could do a conversion using a 19 V laptop supply, put it in a wooden box add the volt/ammeter binding posts. With a 90+ Watt power supply you can still get quite useful current, and of course this is 100% safe!
The simplicity of the narration and the presentation make this familiar subject enjoyable. I think it's worth the holy bible for novices like me. Thank you Sorin.
Thank you for taking the time to do this. Just made my own. Now be able to use it to power my other DIY projects (RSU, magnetic stirrer, photoetch shaker etc, etc).
Thank you very much, this video is very informative and straightforward without any unnecessary information. I like the idea that you use the ATX's normal outputs as well. The way you do the layout is also very practical for me.
Sorin, I want to thank you for this. I have a car subwoofer with a class D car audio amplifier to power it. I have been trying to get a reasonable power supply for some time for it, but lately, I cant get anything that is either outrageously expensive, or outrageously underpowered. PC power supplies are able to provide the wattage, but its difficult to provide all that amperage through those wires, this actually gives me a solution to my amperage problems with the amplifier. The power supply cuts off when normally plugged in because it cant provide the massive amount of wattage but with all of the wires together in one place, it allows me to have FAR MORE amperage to the amplifier, therefore allowing me to drive it harder. This is important because I DJ and I need really loud speakers in certain situations. This is awesome!
Great video, I've been watching this a few times because I have an old computer with an ATX power supply, and this video was a great reference. I'm almost done now, I just wanted to add a warning to anybody out there that the heat sinks on these models may not be grounded and while it didn't kill me, was a big surprise
nie byłeś wystarczająco wilgotny
A professional giving a professional project presentation. Thank you, Sir, for giving perfectly precise information.
You have not used -12 volt in series with +12 volt because -12 volts has only 0.5 amp. If you use it in series you get 24 volts but 0.5 amp only as output.
Correct.
No.. I make 24v from -12v, test curent load and I got 8a drop to 22v in full load amplifier tpa3116..
In his test with that car light bulb it is proved that it can exceed well over 3amps, probably more.......
If you connect two such power supplies in series, you can raise the voltage to 48 volts using -12 volts from one of the power supplies.
Brother your cat is very cute 🥰
Nice video! It's always nice to watch someone who knows what they are doing. Since I am not one of them, I am now convinced to just buy a power supply instead.
I too enjoyed both the technical aspect and the humerus one. El gato will steel the whole show he is quite the actor!😃
Well worth it and more. Thanks!
Thank you!
Due to short circuit protection -12 vots handels only 0.5 amp current if you exceed this current SMPS will turn off.
For this you can bypass the protection circuit and use its full power even in +12 -12 rail.
How would one find the circuit in order to bypass it?
@@damyanstoyanov1830 wires going to voltage to regulator IC or main IC by resistor.
It depends bro every circuit is different try finding video on RUclips for your model or same looking pcb board
Nice, you might want to add reverse current protection to the output, I destroyed my LTC3780 by connecting the output to a battery with higher voltage.
A lot of them need a high power series schottky diode for battery charging etc.
Nice looking build. Hope it got your supervisors approval😎
You mean the cat?
@@SeeFreeTV of course😎
Good work as always, respect from India 👌☺️
You have prompted me to look into doing something similar with one of my old PC power supplies, good work. Love your feline helper too, every electronics channel should have one.
Excellent presentation! I do have a question...what are the maximum number of amps it can produce and is there anyway to wire it so it would produce the full 19 amps? Thank you!
Hi. Each output of a PC power supply (3.3V, 5V, 12V) has a specified maximum current. if you connect the internal wires directly to the binding posts, each output will deliver its maximum current (if the power supply doesn't have any problems). but if you redirect an output, let's say the 12V output, through a DC converter to adjust the voltage and current, then the maximum current will depend on the type of the converter, the adjusted voltage and the efficiency.
My cat looks exactly as your does, she a real character. Awesome video thanks for the hard work.
Very informative and even more entertaining, thank you and your lovely assistant for producing this video. 😻
I built exactly a same bench power supply. But I also added a relay and switch before the variable power output so its easier to set the required voltage before hand and then switch On the load.
Do u have wiring diagram, please send i realy need it
@@amansingh-ph7zz the diagram at 7:47 in above video. Connect a 12V relay, coil (with a parallel diode in reverse) to the 12V supply from the PS Board. Add an On/Off switch in series to this coil. On the relay's contacts side, connect the DC converter output lines between 'C' and 'NO'
Note: The Relay contact should handle higher current than the power supply's output current.
Finally a video!!! welcome back.
Very nice job.
I think the cat is bored and is trying to tell you he's looking for a project to help with.
I modified one a few years ago and included a variable CC/CV buck/boost module with digital screen and separate +/- terminal posts for adjustable output.
I also have 4 separate voltage + output terminals and 1 common - terminal, all are constantly live, but I added a rotary switch to switch the boost/buck converter on/off, and the rotary switch also connects to a mini volt meter display so I can view each output terminal voltage separately, or to turn the volt meter off.
I was able to keep the case, fan, input power socket, main switch as original, and I mounted all the terminals, boost/buck, volt meter, usb socket and sb/on led's and sb switch on the top panel.
It took a fair bit of careful planning (ocd) but it all came out very nicely👍
zrób chociaż zdjęcia i wstaw na youtube
@@wwaldes Ok, I will take a short video and I will upload it to RUclips. I will notify you the video link tomorrow after I upload it.👍
@@simonilett998 wow, dziękuję!!! nie spodziewałem się odpowiedzi. dzięki jeszcze raz. pozdrawiam z Polski.
@@wwaldes No problem, I always try to reply to comments.
I don't speak Polish, so I have to use a translator.
Here's a link below to my ATX power supply video as promised.
The video is in English, so you can try turning on subtitles, or use a translator, or you may already understand English.
Hope you like how mine turned out.
ruclips.net/video/CN5pFx_Iol8/видео.htmlsi=aIU8FtwMHiwLj-Mg
@@simonilett998 Dziękuję, oczywiście znam sposób tłumaczenia, i wiem że nie mówisz po polsku zasiadam do oglądania. Mam kilka zasilaczy opartych o ridena, np. 6018, 6006, 6012. i inne. Długo zajmuję się elektroniką, ale zawsze wspaniałą przygodą jest dla mnie spojrzenie kogoś z innej części świata na różne tematy elektroniczne. Dziękuje jeszcze raz. Pozdrawiam🖐
One of the nicest looking computer power supply conversions I've seen, good job.
Excellent video - entertaining and easy to follow. I have a newer 700W power supply from a tower PC I no longer use. It comes with a slew of wire connectors so I am hoping to make a companion pox that will interface with it somehow instead of modifying it like you have done.
Hi friend , I enjoyed a lot seeing this video from Iran .
The video is great. Nicely explained and with a touch of humor. Even we amateurs can learn something.
I have one question, so I would like an explanation.
Why are you using a 10W and 47R resistor (for voltage stabilization)?
Hi. The power supply needs to detect a load always connected, otherwise the outputs will not be stable, or it may turn off. the ceramic resistor + volt/ammeter display + the fan will create a load always connected.
hi Sorin what a simple and compact video.....! Add the connection diagram too
Thank you
Ai urcat in topul RUclipsrilor mei preferati :D Keep up the good work!
Sorin loves his ATX PSU to Bench PSU conversions lol
Thank you for the very good instructional video with no faffing about and I loved your cat helping you !!
I love this idea. I have an unused pc power supply... I might attempt a similar mod. Very cool. Also, love the shots of your cat!
I enjoyed, so I subscribed. Can't wait to start binge watching your content.
Your cat and yourself are funny Sorin.
Nice job.
Your cat is cute, Me and my wife have a 30 pound monster Tabby, She runs the House, Great power supply Build.
Great video. I love your humour, and of course your cat!
Thanks for the video. Great job, looks very nice. Appreciate your sense of humor 🙂
Nice video Sorin - clear instructions and explanations. Funny too - your cat wants to help.
Thanks for sharing this video and information. I appreciate your thoughts and advice.
Nice bit of work And looks great.
Nice power supply conversion!
Thank you for including your mischievous assistant ! !
You should look up the datasheet for the voltage regulator Ic's built in the Cpu Psu. Many have a max output of 30-40 volts. Make sure downstream caps can handle the max volts plus 10%. The datasheet will tell you what pins on the Ic connect to volt sense resistors. Remove the resistors and connect wires for multi turn pots.
The datasheet will also give a voltage output range and corresponding resistor values. If say the 12v regulator can operate up to 40v's and it takes a 10ohm resistor to do so or a 20ohm resistor to reach 24v's then a 30ohm pot should reach around 36v's.
Do this for all of the outputs. The neg 12v is now -36v and the pos 12v is +36v giving you a 0-72vdc total output. All for the cost of a few pots, wire and possibly some caps.
Why add a voltage regulator to a voltage regulator?
That's a very interesting information. What could be done to also adjust the amperage?
@@TheBlackManitu If your trying to get more amps out than the PSU would normally provide, look into current sourcing. The 2N3055 in a To-3 pack could be helpful.
If you just want to vary what is being provided look into current regulating transistors. Like the LM317. Tons of at hand info. Different current loads, adjust ability, temp displacement, max min volts etc.
I am actually doing the same thing, had it on my bench for a while waiting for a case design I like. In addition to 12V,3V and 5V I also need adjustable as well. But I am using a 1500W DC-DC booster 10V-60V IN and 12-90V out and 30AMP Max. SInce I need from time to time 48V, 60V to test electric mower boards. I have a 1500W 12V PSU that has a rail leaking so it no longer works on PC.
Awesome project 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Can someone please elaborate more on the c.c protection? I am awaiting for the parts to assemble the similar one. But I am not sure what kind of protection you are talking about? I was planning to use it as battery charger etc.
Very good power supply. Beautiful cat.😊
Nicely explained in details, seems to be accurate, for electronic experiments, thanks
That was super entertaining to watch! I love the cat helping as well lol 🤣
Nice video. But you never did say why you didn't use the +12v and -12V to make a 24v potential difference for the buck boost converter?
why would that not work as well? is it because of the input range of the converter? or an efficiency trade off somewhere?
Thanks. The -12V rail has only 0.5A, so even if I combine the +12V with the -12V output to get 24V, it will have only 0.5A, which is not very useful.
Well done. I think I will make one for myself. Thanks for making this video!
I didn't switch out the weaker looking wires...could that cause this amp problem it is outputting .3 amps not reading on meter though
I have a question. Why do you connect a dummy load resistor to the 5V output? Even tough your Volt/Amp meter is acting like a load. I have the same ATX PSU I bought for very cheap in a new condition which I used in my DIY Lab Bench Power Supply project and I have to say it is very cheap compared to the expensive commercial lab bench power supplies. I have built my own using a Boost Converter and a 30V Buck Converter Kit I got from Aliexpress,which is big and bulky and requires a heatsink for the transistor. It also requires to bypass the charge pump using another buck converter to get the square wave output. Since the buck converter can only run on 24VAC. Which is a concerning problem when trying to power it using an ATX PSU. In the future,I might replace the big bulky buck converter with a more efficient XL4015/XL4016 module with Boost converters connected in parallel to increase the wattage at the same voltage output.
Hi. The power supply needs to detect a load to keep the outputs stable. otherwise the voltage will not be stable when you connect a load. a resistor will be a dummy load always connected to the output with the highest current, in most Pc PSUs it's the 5V rail. the volt/ammeter and the fan are not enough, it needs a bigger load, so a ceramic resistor is ok.
@@Sorin_DIY Thats great to hear! My ATX PSU can run just about fine without any dummy load.
My biggest issue I have with it so far is the Buck Converter which can only run on AC. (I actually bought it seperately as a kit and had to assemble it. Which has some problems) The Constant Current feature on it is broken. And i am planning on using a 150W Boost Converter along with a XL4016 Buck Converter. Both of them are rated at 150W,but if its exceeded it will draw heat and might require a cooling fan. Might not be a concern for me since the ATX PSU is rated at 12V 14A (thats about 168W). As long as I use it at the 30V 5A range (150W) it will run just about fine as a regular old 30V 5A lab bench power supply! I chose them at 150W because the XL4015 module cant dissipate heat at 150W,but these ones I am gonna buy can. I might also have to put some thicker wires at the outputs and inputs because its gonna draw heck a lot of current and the wires can get hot even when the output of the buck converter is shorted.
can i use another load? like a 82ohm resistor ?@@Sorin_DIY
Real DIY King! Amazing videos sir!
The fan connected to 5 volts will spin very slowly. Will the cooling of the power supply be sufficient?
Yes. because I will never use the full power of all the outputs combined. I use one or maybe 2 outputs simultaneous with less than 10A. in idle or with a small load the power supply will remain cold.
Indeed computer PSU are very handy, i keep couple of them for the purpose of auxiliary supply
Regards
Jean-François
Very nice work! I can't wait to start my own power supply (requesting the parts now...). And I love your cat ;-)
And I really love that you use the 'old' power supply case, so we don't have to make a new one 👍👍
Great project! Enjoyed the cat!
very nice work man , thanks for sharing !
I also did one that I use often. The problem is that it doesn't have c.c. protection. I've added a fuse on mine, it's not active c.c. protection but it is better then destroying the buck converter. Anny comments?
You can make separate outputs, each one with a resistor in series, 20W and 0.5/ 1/ 2/ 3 ohms.
With big loads the voltage will slightly decrease, but it will definitely limit the current.
Nice pwersupplay, beautiful presentation. GREAT.
Dear Sorin, could you give us any advice for protecting a power supply from inductive loads? Do you have any ideas/advices for this? I don't want to burn my power supply with trying BLDC motors or etc.? Thanks.
Great project! Congratulations! What is maximum voltage? If 20V, what is the maximum current? I need 20V 5A. = 100W
max voltage is 35V. but if you exceed 80W, the converter will get very hot and it will burn.
Thank you for the video! Some handsome product you created! I would like to ask the range of the variable voltage and wattage of the variable side. Is it 9-35V and 80W?
Thank you.
Hi. the voltage range is 1 - 35V and 80W.
Realy funny and nice design.
i like your soldering iron.
I LOVE that you included your cat in this. 😁😍🤣🤣
Bravo Sorin frumos proiect, tare amuzanta si zapacita e pisica ta 😅
Solo tengan algo de precaución con la precisión de la escala de corrientes de ese display., yo he comprado varios de esos y en pruebas he notado que bajo 0,5 A, las medidas que da son bastante imprecisas comparadas con las de un amperímetro externo conectado en serie a la fuente.
Thank you so much sir, it was beyond helpful. And also lovely cat.
HI SORIn can i also use a higher resistor for the buck boost converter i have one lying around which has
48 kohm and 3 watt
[ from old sony tv white]
Or should i use 4
1 kohm resistor
Colour code;
Brown
Black
Black
Brown
Brown
48Kohm is too high, it will still have a delay, when lowering the voltage.
it's better to use 4x 1Kohm resistors in series. 1Kohm resistor has the color code: brown black red gold.
thx u for your fast and helpful answer : )
Can this be used for voltage injection for finding shorts? For example 1V 3A?
Watching your video from Bangladesh. Actually i watch your all video
Great video as always, keep it up
If you connect two such power supplies in series, you can raise the voltage to 48 volts using -12 volts from one of the power supplies.
nice video, good ideas , good approach, a bit cramped box. why no negative 12V ?
because it has only 0.5A and it's useless for me.
Great tutorial my friend. You make it seem so simple. I think i'm gonna give it a try cause i have a couple of 800 watts atx power units sitting around. Are the components you are using for the modification suitable for any wattage capacity power supply? Thank you.
Thanks. Yes, you can use the components on any PSU, but there will be some output limitations. the DC converter for the variable output has a maximum output power of 80W, and the ammeter can measure max 10A.
Thank you Sorin. Looking forward for more DIY video of yours.
That's beautiful power supply.
As always, I love your cat. :) I've seen your other power supply conversions and I want to make one, but I have a decent sized bench-top power supply already, plus two smaller ones. I love building stuff though. I might make this one just to be doing it.
Very good job, bro👍
7:35 Why add dummy load resistor together to power the volt amp meter? In parallel or series?
The power supply needs to detect a load always connected, otherwise the outputs will not be stable. you can connect both resistor and volt/ammeter in parallel to the same wires, or you can use separate wires to power them.
@@Sorin_DIYI apologize for being a complete newbie, this is my very first project and I'm also stuck at this same spot. It's a little hard for me to tell in the video but on the dummy load, is there a short positive wire that connects directly to a short negative wire on the resistor? Thank you in advance. Also, thank you for all the great videos, they're great for newbies like myself and you're very entertaining
AHHH THE MAN IS BACK AGAIN 👏👏👏
Es excelente este video y mas aun porque se ve la evolución de tus trabajos...este tema las fuentes de laboratorio caseras son FUNDAMENTALES...ojala sigas creando mas modelos... saludos desde Argentina Bs As
Hi, great video. What is the purpose of the ceramic resistor dummy load?
Thanks
PC power supplies need to detect a load to keep the output stable. the resistor (dummy load) + fan + volt/ammeter display create a load which is constantly connected to the power supply circuit board.
@@Sorin_DIY got it, thanks 🙂
Nice project. Do we need to use large heatsink if we're drawing more current from buck converter upto say 6 Ampere?
Thanks. No, but you can power the fan with a higher voltage, or add a bigger cooling fan.
Greetings. For that rotary cutting tool, is there some kit of discs to cut metal/plastic/wood?¿ Thanks in advance
Hello. For metal I use these disks: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DC1Z9rz
And for plastic and wood: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DDgJnVh
@@Sorin_DIY Thank You so much. The other day, I'd spend almost 4 hours cutting a plastic enclosure to fit a LCD, Thanks... for this tip
Hi Sorin thank you for the informative video , what does the trimpot right next to the power inputs do? Do I need to make any adjustments?
Thanks! With that potentiometer you can set the under voltage protection (UVP) for the input. You don't need to adjust it.
It's useful if you power the converter with a battery that doesn't have over discharge protection.
Nicely done!
What is the point of the 10W 47 Ohm ceramic resister? It appears to only be loading down the 5v rail and used as convenient connection for the fan and powering the meter.
Hi. The PSU needs to detect a load to keep the output power stable, otherwise some power supplies will shut down when you connect a big load, or the output will not be stable. so the resistor + fan + display are used as a dummy load always detected by the PSU. the dummy load should be connected to the output with the highest current, that's the 5V output.
great video. I needed only 12V so I left only that output
Sempre bravo ed esauriente.👍👍
Thanks for the video Mr. Sorin
Nice job, Sorin just wondering is your double sided tape is able to transfer the heat from the ceramic resistor to the metal box efficiently?
Thanks. the double sided tape is not designed to transfer the heat, but it will transfer at least a part of the heat. Also the fan will help to cool everything down.
Great video!
I especially like the kitty bits where (s)he knocks stuff off the table, which is a perfect demonstration of why 'Flat Earthers' are wrong: If the earth were flat, all the cats would have knocked everything off of it by now.
1:30 Is the cat also a Patron? 😀
Well, your Buck/Boost converter would not be insulating galvanically. The Buck/Boost's INPUT and OUTPUT's GND are connected, i.e. you'd have the ATX PSU's -12V potential as your Buck/Boost's "GROUND" point. That could screw up whatever you power with it, if you also use another power rail and/or GND in there. so the ATX PSU's 3.3V becomes 3.3 + 12 Volts potential relative to the Buck/Boost'ed circuit (plus you'd short out the PSU's -12V and GND). Bad things tend to happen in that situation. some "magic smoke" would leave your ATX PSU, rendering it a paperweight.