Hi everyone - It's come to my attention that there has been someone masquerading as myself, responding to some comments here with a link to a Telegram chat to win a prize from me. THIS IS A SCAM, I am not holding a contest, nor do I have a Telegram account. PLEASE DO NOT RESPOND TO THESE MESSAGES!! It's happening on a lot of my videos, I'm taking steps to remove them manually, but as I have 162 videos, it will take some time. If you do run across a suspicious comment, I would appreciate you letting me know at info@dronebotworkshop.com. Thanks! Bill (The real one!)
It's a bit of a problem with many Western practical and news same scan on hundreds of YT videos. No one who want to talk privately will ask you to use telegram and be suspicious of links in chat. Love your Vids respect bro
Professional Power Supply, the last power supply I built, was some 50 years ago as an apprentice in a TV/Radio repair shop, now retired I want to build one of these, in place of the commercial P/S I use, your calmness on explaining, reminded me of the Engineer that taught me Electronics & Repair, your doing a wonderful job, I'm now a subscriber.
I've watched perhaps 20 of your videos, and, if I were someone wanting to produce informational or how-to videos, (or if I speak with anyone planning to pursue it,) I would reference them to this particular video. I would go on about what I like specifically, but this video has it all. Not that your others lack, it's just that- within the scope of a "simple" power supply, your example of a YT producer wouldn't get lost on someone who is not interested in electronics, and they could profit from your absolutely fantastic way of filming, lighting, recording audio, adding effects, linking to other sources, consistency, and so, so much more. I know this comes a year after you posted it, but I've saved it for both the reference for others and because I definitely will be building this as my first full scratch system build. What a great job you continue to do!!! Thanks so much for all your hard work!!!
The quality of the project and the clarity of the tutorial makes this channel the best for electronics. Thank you for imparting this wisdom to us earthlings.
Hello! Retired mechanical engineer here. When I went through school we didn't quite use a kite and a key for a power supply but electronics instruction in the ME curriculum was pretty preliminary and not very practical. I vaguely remember a semester of Kirkoff's loops but was glad when it was over. However in my declining years I've taken a real interest in small electronics projects and your videos have been a terrific aid in my endeavors. My sincere thanks for all your efforts. Wonderfully understandable and straightforward!!
I have built so many of these through the years. The 78xx series and the LM317 made it simple and you could always get a decent transformer out of old electronics. I still have one I built in 89 as part of my breadboard setup. It has 5v, 12v and a variable section similar to what you built. The whole thing was built into a metal and wood sided box I had from an old audio amp.
I am so grateful for your videos. Im a self taught tinker-er and have been repurposing electrical components for a couple years now and am learning more from you than pricey course videos I've used. Thank you sir! Im a loyal fan.
I’ve been watching so many diy videos and I think them most of them are made by Indians or bangles. No commentary, very little description, and the same washed up stock RUclips techno music. Then I found drone bot workshop and everything is so clear step by step. No need to screen shot and zoom in on parts of the video to try and figure what things are on Google. I come here and leave here with a sense of having learned things, and knowing I can do it. I’m almost 40 and just getting into electronics. Please don’t change your style. 👍😎👍
An excellent video, from which even experienced builders can gain tips; I did. Thank you. A few points that I noted... 1) I do not recall that you discussed the additional overhead voltage needed by the voltage regulator. Lots of people just add 1.5 volts, above the voltage regulator's output rating. However, a close inspection of the data sheet reveals that a minimum of 3V of additional voltage is required for the best ripple rejection. 2) The small, rectangular trim pots are not intended for continuous use. They are meant to be set, once, for some calibration factor and not turned, again, except for fresh calibrations. That is the way that you are employing them; this is just a tip for inexperienced builders. They will fail, quickly, with regular use. Use a knob-style pot, for user adjustments. 3) Using resistor dividers to create additional output voltages limits the current supplied by those outputs to the current carrying ability of the resistors used, not the regulated voltage supplied. Meaning, the LD1085 can supply 3A, but the trim pots that you used can only carry a fraction of that. By extension, that means that a calculation based on the trim pots wattage rating will be necessary to determine the current that can be sourced for the additional outputs. Or, if you intend to purchase resistors for the purpose of carrying the full 3A, you will need to make a similar calculation to determine the wattage rating they will needed. 4) The style of Volt/Amp Meter that you are using has a known minor issue... They source there voltage from the DUT circuit. This is called "burden voltage." Therefore, they do not display the exact voltage of the DUT. There are RUclips videos on this problem and how to correct the wiring. 5) Most of us now own inkjet printers and they do not do as well for creating labels. So, another easy method for labeling is to create the label in your favorite draw program and, once laid out properly, print it onto white paper as a mirror image. You can find the mirror image printout setting in the file/print properties function. Then, take the paper to a big-box office supply store and have them use their laserjet printer to copy it onto clear film transparency paper. Because you printed a reverse image, the tender ink will be behind the clear film and protected, once you orient the print to read correctly from the front. Cheers!
You make many good points, but with regard to (3), I don't think you have a correct understanding about how the circuit is (probably!) wired. Unfortunately, no schematic of the full circuit is provided (that I recall), but I believe that the 4-way switch is used to select one of four voltage divider pairs to set the output voltage, rather than having the supply current passing directly _through_ these pots. Three of these dividers are provided by the trimpots on the circuit board, and the one for user-adjustable output voltage is composed of the panel pot plus a trimmer on the circuit board (used to optimize voltage range). All these dividers are sourced from the output of the regulator. The wipers/set point voltages from these pots feed into the points on the switch, with the centre pin of the switch connected to the adjustment pin on the regulator. Therefore, the circuit *is* capable of providing full power to the external load regardless of which voltage divider is used, since in all cases the regulator output is directly connected to the positive binding post. Thanks for the other observations and suggestions! I especially like the idea of using clear film transparency paper and a laser printer to label the chassis. The only thing unclear about this is how to mount the transparency onto the case, but I suppose something like 3M Super77 spray adhesive would do the job. Is that what you use?
@@andreafalconiero9089 "with regard to (3), I don't think you have a correct understanding about how the circuit is (probably!) wired." That is quite possible. "The only thing unclear about this is how to mount the transparency onto the case, but I suppose something like 3M Super77 spray adhesive would do the job. Is that what you use?" I do use spray adhesive and I like it very much. But, for this application, I believe it could be seen through the clear plastic. So, I would use a different approach... I would make the label to be slightly smaller than the entire size of the face plate. I would cut very accurate holes for the switches/pots, etc. I would remove all the knobs/etc. I would then apply the label to the face plate and use the hardware/nuts/etc. to secure the label in the middle of the plate. I would finish the edges by applying some type of decorative tape. But, each individual should use their creative instincts and work with the supplies and tools that they have. It should be fun. Cheers!
@@t1d100 Thanks for the reply. I like your suggestion for mounting the transparency, but thought of a couple of others as well: 1) If the spray adhesive would mess up the appearance of the background, it might be possible to fix the problem using a paint layer on top of the printing. I would try applying an opaque spray paint onto the printed side, and then use spray adhesive to bond _that_ to the case. As long as the paint layer doesn't separate from the transparency film, it should look good and both the adhesive and the case itself would be hidden. This could work particularly well if one was re-using an old case with unwanted holes, etc., since these too would be covered over. 2) There are quite a few project cases that have a separate plate for the front and rear panels that slides into a groove on the case. By using one of those, it should be easy to keep the transparency in place without using any adhesive and/or paint, just by setting it loosely within the frame and relying on the knobs, meters, etc. to hold it in position, as you suggested.
I am from Bangladesin. I am only a graphic designer. I had no practical knowledge of electronics. After watching your tutorial video I have made a Variable power supply. Salute you, sir
This was a seriously great tutorial. Personally I would have watched an extended series that included preparing the chassis, soldering the perfboard - there was just so much good info in there about how to approach a project like this.
I have a Chinese DCDC Boost/Buck converter coming in today and this video releases at the same time! I'm a beginner and this was incredibly helpfuL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Seriously awesome thank you!
I've built linear and PWM power supplies over the years. I try to keep my circuits running cool. I believe that this project would benefit from a large heat sink on the regulator IC. The amount of heat can build up fast and catch you off guard. With plenty of open space on the back of the case looks like a good location for the heat sink. It is also possible with an op amp and some other components to get the low end of the voltage regulation down to 0 volts. If you don't care about the circuit being more complicated current regulation could also be added. For a simple Bench top Power supply this is an excellent project and I would highly recommend it. I think I would go with an electrolytic cap on the output as I have seen too many of the tantalum caps short when they go bad. I wish people would have given me feedback on some of my projects as it is sometimes easy to overlook something when designing and making a project. I love this channel.
I'm Brazilian and despite not having a great knowledge of the English language I loved this class. I have no words to describe this wonder of knowledge and for sharing it with us. Thank you very much. Success and a big hug from here Brazil
sooo... I've just spent an hour and a bit watching this and I am completely and utterly blown away! Blown away by the sheer amount of great information! Blown away by the easy to follow way it is presented! Blown away by the way you have explained everything, and I do mean EVERYTHING! So many times I watch a video and they skip over explaining the thinking behind the little things, but not here, it is so refreshing! Blown away by how easy you make it all sound, and even though it isn't as easy as you make it sound you have explained everything to the nth degree so I can't see how anyone with even a tiny amount of electronics knowledge couldn't follow this video and make a great power supply AND know how everything works AND why you made the choices you made! Blown away by it all basically! 😁👍 I will definitely be following your tutorial and making my own, with my own little changes as I know how and why I can and should do it! Hungry for more now so I have subscribed and liked this, will be flitting through your other videos to see what catches my eye and my next few projects!
A friend of mine gave me 2 x HP 6214A linear supplies that didn't work. Took them home and fixed them. That was like 20 years ago. They're still my lab power supplies! 14 volts at 1.2A is more than I've needed in all these years. For big load testing, I have lead acid batteries used on my UPS and 60V 8A Boost converter with adjustable voltage and current.
Bravo Bill. Excellent video and explanation. I watched the entire thing and was very happy that I did. Labeling panels has always been my weak point in building. You have given me some new ideas! Again bravo my friend.
Well done on the video, great guidance for anyone setting out. I am not new to power supply design but you have convinced me about the nibbler! Not a correction or a criticism but a good precaution for a build like this is to cover the chassis area under the circuit board with Kapton tape. A great instructional and anyone building the power supply should find it very useful for years to come.
Great project but couple of comments for anyone trying to build this exact design. You will need a much larger heatsink for the regulator. A linear regulator drops the voltage between its input and output, the byproduct is heat. So if you have 1A load and the regulator input voltage is 30V but output is 5V, the regular will need to drop 25W of power (25V*1A). This is another reason linear regulator based power supplies are heavy. You can get better cooling using a thermal switch and controlling a fan when the heatsink gets too hot. A lot of these LDO’s and older regulators (like classic the LM317) require enough bias current on the adjust pin to overcome the leakage current. The datasheet of the LM317 talks about this. You don’t need to use a trimpot to adjust the maximum output voltage, the datasheet will give you the equation and sometimes examples. As few others have pointed out, a diode from the output to the input will help protect the regulator and discharge any capacitive loads that might at the output. LM317 datasheet has an example. A nice addition would be a fuse at either the AC input or output of the rectified voltage. Putting a chassis mounted fuse at the AC input will help replacing the fuse a lot easier in case the fuse blows. Lastly thank you for taking the proper precautions and insulating the AC main lines come into the box. A lot of other DIY projects don’t.
Bill, Another Masterpiece !!!! !! ! I was both entertained and educated at the very same time. my brain learns a lot with the way you build these videos. I can only imagine the work behind this. But I will certainly be trying to at least see if I can locate a transformer :D thanks a ton !!
It is good practice to install a reverse diode across the regulator input to output pins, this prevents regulator damage when an external voltage is accidently applied to the output of the power supply, easily done with a bench supply.
Thank you for an interesting and informative video. Obviously there are time constraints on such a production, but I would recommend some brief additions which I think are important in an article which includes the word "designing" in its title: 1 - at about 19min, connect the rectifier to 48R//1000µF to show that on-load the output has a reduced voltage and some ripple, the lowest part of which must still be within the input voltage range of the regulator. Maybe add another 1000µF to halve the ripple. 2 - at or before 19min, add that the transformer must have a VA rating about 1.6 times (the raw DC output voltage) × (DC current output) or it will overheat. 3 - Stress that the peak input voltage to the regulator MUST NOT APPROACH its data sheet "abs max" spec. I think these points could be covered inside a minute total, provided you don't take the extra time to explain why (2) and (3) are necessary. Anyway, congratulations on a nice, instructive, helpful and practical article.
Thanks! Again another great video. I almost skipped the first part then saw your test transformer setup and realized I want to build that too. Thanks again
This is a great project, and it makes such a neat package :D I'd love to see a project based on a programmable regulator and combined with an arduino to show voltage and current on a custom display. You could use push buttons to jump to a custom voltage, and a rotary encoder. The front panel talk was an interesting segment, worthy of a video in and of itself, the various methods of creating a panel. Laser engraving, machine engraving, laser printer toner transfer (how some people make PCBs). Even using PCBs themselves as panels. One technique I've used it to print off the whole panel on paper, laminate it and cut it out, then glue that to the front panel.
Nicely done. For cutting larger holes in a metal or plastic chassis, I use a Dremel tool with a cut wheel. That works well and is quite quick. Safety glasses are a must. Take care 😊
You are doing an excellent job, and it is very entertaining and relaxing. Another advantage I may add to linear PWR supplies is that they are more durable than switch-mode PWR supplies. If any component failed in SW-mode supply. They stop working.
I first got into electronics as a hobby when I was in college. The first thing that I ever built was a linear power supply that provided regulated 5VDC and regulated 12VDC using a 7805 and 7812.. Got most of the parts at the neighborhood Radio Shack. I designned and etched the board myself using a photo resist.
Video is very descriptive, quite rare on YT. I knew most of info here, but I assembled knowledge from *tens* of other videos! And it was enough just to watch *this* video. :) I'm still sure despite all those "switching supplies", people MUST have linear PSU to power home projects - at least to exclude HF problems during development.
Thank you for another excellent video Bill. It was really good. This is one of the best introductions to linear power supplies I've seen. I really like your benchtop supply you made as well. I just made the switching supply version using an ATx power supply a couple of months back. I'm tempted to try this for having a higher range and the variable voltage feature. Fantastic video!
I’ve watched electronics videos over time and this has stood out not because it’s something new but it’s the way and how simple things are being explained in it. Thumbs up 👍🏽, I have one little challenge though, I’ve been trying to build a power supply with both positive and negative points and I have a single 24VAC power supply, will it work properly if I connect both the negative circuitry and the positive circuitry in parallel to the transformer output??
Hi everyone what a good video 👍 . One of my hobbies is model railroading, and the amount of electronics used to make one work is amazing. Thank you Drone Bot Workshop 👍👍
Not sure if you've been in hibernation or RUclips has been keeping you in the shadows but it's darn good to have u back! And as luck has it, i was about to make myself a linear PSU with a 24v 4amp transformer I've had on the shelf for the last 2 years 😉.
Thank you Bill for a great lesson in building and understanding a power supply. I also learned the difference between linier and switching. Thank you for sharing. Take care.
Awesome video and channel! There is one problem. When switching between fixed voltages, the voltage becomes momentarily unregulated. As the voltage spikes show at (1:09:00) It seems like the voltage regulator just becomes a 0.7V drop diode when there is no resistor connecting it to ground. Any project connected to it might not like the full 22V rectified voltage. Maybe it is better to have the lower part of the voltage divider fixed and put the switch and turn pot resistor on the higher part. Possibly with the 3.3V resistor as bypass resistor for the others, so that it is the minimum voltage. Or an other value bypass resistor to set a minimum voltage, so the regulator is not stressed out because it has no feedback from its output.
Ideally I would drop this ugly "voltage switcher" and just make output sockets with fixed voltage. It takes more space on device, but way easier and safer in terms of scheme (just use L7805 and like).
This is the most informative and educational video around here. So much details and all explained with schematics and detailed testing and showcase about every single component, this is like school but 1000x better, you can learn a lot here. Thank you so much.
I'm an EET and gleaned quite a bit of knowledge from this video. Thank you! You're quite meticulous in your methodology. Much appreciated. Thanks again.
SMPS CAN BE more efficient than a linear voltage regulator - but not always. You have to examine the efficiency graph on the spec sheet and read the specs carefully. It is easy to be misled. Linear VRs are much cleaner and more like a battery. SMPS can be noisy. A SMPS may have trouble with inductive or high capacitance loads. Many commercial SMPS do not have short-circuit protection.
I'm in an epic 4 month deep rabbit hole right now you can't even fathom. Started with building a lifepo4 battery with a tutorial from Will Prowse. Months and hundreds of electrical related videos later, I find myself unable to learn enough about everything electrical. Gonna be mfking Raiden by time I get my fill...
Just found your channel and subscribed. Linear power supplies are also essential for music audio applications to power guitar amplifiers and effects where clean, noise free DC is required. For those who do not want to work with AC currents, you could consider making a video about constructing a power supply with +/-9 plus variable 1.5-12V outputs using a cheap wall wart as an input. This way you would not need the transformer or the rectifier either, bringing the cost, size and weight of the supply down considerably.
There already have been a lot of good comments regarding heat dissipation, reverse voltage protection at the VR, reverse current protection at the output, etc. However, there is one thing I would like to add: In your design DC GND is connected to main earth. This can lead to some subtle problems, for example: a) It is not safe to cascade other power supplies with this supply. b) It is not safe to use an oscilloscope with circuits powered by this supply, because the GND of an oscilloscope is also always connected to main earth (if no differential probes are used). This can easily lead to shorts by simply measuring. Therefore virtually all power supplies are floating, i.e. the output is not connected to main in any way, by default.
This was a really great video. Information is given clearly and knowledge above a basic level isn't assumed. You always seem to do a great job with putting chapters into your videos which makes it so easy to come back and refer to something or jump forwards to key moments.
So I've been struggling to understand some concepts on how, why and where to use some electronic components. You just made them disappear. I've never seen a more well explained video in this field. Thank you so much, you have no idea how much I've learned from this video! 🙂
Having gone from LM317 at around 10W to a quad 400W, that's 4 x 400W, using LM317's / TIP5C's, massive heat sinks and 6 fans, 4 transformers, etc, etc. purely for the fun of it I can quite honestly say this is a good video. My only concern would be the heat sink for the LM317 - it's too small. I like the LM338 (5A) but again heat is a problem. The LT1083 is a beast at 7.5A and so far I have not popped one. Forgot 80,000uF.
I wish I could (legally) make my own power supply here in Australia. We are not (legally) even allowed to change a plug end on an extension cord without using a licensed electrician. I am comfortable with AC power, had all the safety training, but without paying for a licence I am not allowed to do it. I guess it is lucky that less safe power supplies are available on ebay that we can legally kill ourselves with :). Sorry, being a bit facetious there. It can be frustrating being an a country with such restrictions.
Brendan ,salutare din Romania : NU PLANGE!!!! !aici se fac multe lucrari neautorizate si din cauza aceasta iau foc spitale,maternitati si blocuri .Desi ,,pompierii'' nu dau autorizatie de functionare in cladiri se continua activitatea Recent a luat foc la un spital camera unde erau in incubatoare 50 de bebelusi.De curand a luat foc o biserica si un parking de autovehicule ( parking cars).In Romania electricienii care lucreaza fara autorizatie se numesc ,,electriciean-zugrav ''.Poti face lucrari daca ai diploma de electrician dar trebuie autorizata de cineva si stampilata.
You can definitely change your own plug here in Aus. Maybe go get your test and tag licence if you don't know what you're doing or want to use the cables commercially. You can also make your own power supply if you're competent.
@@CalmAsHinduCow No you can not. Under the Australian law, you must be a qualified electrician for attaching a new plug to the end of a lead. Definitely can NOT do any 240v wiring, whether on an extension lead or on fixed wiring. You may be able to make your own power supply, but an electrician has to wire the 240V side to a socket or plug. Might be a good thing to check the rules as it seems you have made a mistake there. To quote from a reputable electricians website, who is paraphrasing from the legislatiion - Note that attaching a new plug to the end of a lead is one of the things in the list. ******* Can I Do These Simple Electrical Tasks? Many everyday people around Australia would be guilty of doing these seemingly more simple electrical tasks at some point in their lives, and may have performed some of these tasks without even knowing they have actually broken any laws. These include things like: Replacing a light switch or power point Building your own extension lead Repairing an electrical appliance Installing a new light fitting Attaching a new plug to the end of a lead Replacing a lead on an appliance Installing a ceiling fan These are just some of the more common things DIYers might be tempted to do themselves, or actually have done. However, as innocuous as some of these tasks might seem, it’s still dangerous and against the law to make these fixes yourself if you’re unlicensed. ******* If you want to do it and break the law, and invalidate insurance, that;s fine. Go ahead. Just hope it doesn't fail as insurance are very good at rejecting claims for leads that are not certified and do not meet the standards (which includes moulded plug ends)
This is an awesome tutorial with plenty of learning to be had, although i can't help feeling it is a lot of work compared to buying one possibly cheaper and being able to use it straight away, after all the tools have been purchased to build this power supply it works out much more expensive than buying a ready made unit, although it is always nice to be using something that you made yourself.
True enough But even if you don't build one yourself (I already have a commercial box) this excellent tutorial provides a clear explanation of how they work and what the important considerations are. I watched the entire video and consider it time very well spent. This is one of the best sites for electronics tutorials. Even the most minor details like labeling the panel are helpful. This guy's clear, calm and low key presentation (typically Canadian?) Is relaxing. A master instructor.
You do an excellent job in how you move from general to specifics, and your production is great. Thanks for reminding me I used to be an electrical engineer in the late 1970s!
This takes me back to one of my EE classes when I built a power supply similar to this. At about 54:00 you stated a desire to avoid using connectors on the PCB, preferring soldered connections. But at 57:30 you are using terminal blocks to connect your dial assembly. Was this an unplanned change made along the way? That is quite common when designing products. I prefer the later choice. I like to keep things neat and tidy inside the enclosure. It makes it much simpler to track down any problems. It's also kinder for anyone working with it later. Great video. You have a good classroom feel.
A good source for a linear regulated power supply is any of the "SOLA" type industrial power supplies. They can be found in 5v, 12v and 24v versions at different amperage's. Usually they are very affordable and would be a good foundation. Some of them use an adjustable regulator that is good over a voltage range of 2v-36v. For this project you might want to add some protection (zener diodes, etc) because if you ever loose regulation you'll get the full output of the rectifier.
Great tutorial. The design would have been more flexible if all of the voltages were made available simultaneously as outputs with separate readouts ! This need is frequent in my case. Needs a more complex circuit at greater cost, of course !
I have made covers out of plexiglass, ut is easy to work with and readily available from lots of business that have taken down their Covid shields. Use Weld-on 3 to "glue" pieces together.
I would have liked to see a test on thermal performance. How long does it take before a load of 3A at 3.3V trigger the thermal protection with that small heatsink? However an excellent explanation as always, thanks!
@@kennmossman8701 , IMHO I think that if you draw 2.5A at an output voltage of 2V, the regulator cannot dissipate about 50W of power with such a small passive heatsink.
Así fue justo como aprendí a lo largo de mi carrera de electrónica, la explicación es increíble y no queda lugar para dudas, excelente trabajo, el video es una joya llena de aprendizaje, enhorabuena y gracias por compartirlo!
Весьма подробно всё описано для новичков в электротехнике, но есть серьёзная оплошность - недопустимо малый размер радиатора на стабилизатор!!! Такой радиаторчик уместен, если блок питания использовать как демонстрационный, с минимальной нагрузкой!
Good tuto about the good ole linear regulators. They still have my preference (because of low noise), and will still be around for a while. They are just rather indestructible😉(ok..maybe not always😁)and yes, very fast response time.
Ohhh. I just wrote the same. For lab use NOTHING matches a linear one for the reasons you mentioned and much more. Only if LOT of current its necessary would think on a switching one . ( for lab use)
Finally an electrical engineering channel that doesn’t have an impossible to understand accent, incredibly poor explanations and a camera that flies all over the place
Great job, looks really professional. Judging your thoroughness I would guess you were a teacher at some time in your life! Maybe computer science or electronics?
A very fine tutorial, one of the best I've seen on RUclips, thanks! I've been building these things since the early 70s and I think I will build another one to use as a bench P/S and to provide noiseless power to the LED lighting in my workshop. One thing I would like to add that few people discuss, however, is a Constant Current adjustment so one can limit the amount of current that is fed into the device under test. This feature is common to nearly all good quality lab power supplies as it can prevent accidental shorts from damaging or destroying the test circuit before the fuse in the power entry module has had time to blow. Can that be added to this design do you think?
There's various ways of doing a constant current regulator from a 2 transistor circuit to the 317 regulator ic. Both circuits do drop some voltage as well which can vary and are best placed before any voltage regulator circuit. For a 12 volt supply I would suggest a 20 volt 2 amp transformer using 2 lots of the 317 regulator ic's. One of the ic's operates as the current regulator with the other operating as a variable voltage regulator after the current regulator. Allow a minimum difference of about 2.5 to 3 volts across the voltage regulator ic with more across the current regulator ic. There was a project that appeared in Everyday Electronics back in 1981. Most transformers available do have a pair of secondary windings and there's a considerable size jump between 25VA and 50VA in the EI core wound types.
Another option for anyone who doesn't want to deal with mains voltage is to use a class II wall-wart transformer. They're easy to find, and can be had pre-terminated with a barrel connector.
Very informative! I built my own linear power supply that I use to test dc motors. There's no voltage regulator, but it works great for testing stuff and to powering my homemade bandsaw 👍
Fantastic Video !!!!! You are a fantastic teacher !!!!! Im learning electronics and I have been learning a lot by watching your videos. I want to thank you for sharing your knowledge !!!! I wish you had shared the assembly of the board.
I think I bought my first nibbler about the same time you did. I usually mark off the hole with masking tape to act as a straight edge guide and also prevent scuffing up the cut face. I haven't seen Letraset in years, you probably have the last sheets in existence. ;)
other options for cases are small computer cases which can be priced lower than a project case of similar size. A decent source of low volt hi amp transformers can be found by modifying the low volt coil of microwave oven transformers, just be sure to remove the hi volt winding on the output side. Salvaging MWOs and computers and TVs can save a fair amount of money for "learning/test" projects. If you want extreme accuracy voltage control, a 10 turn pot in series with the main voltage controlling pot is the way to go.
Just a mention with a linear power supply that you need to plan ahead, taking into account the power dissipation of the linear regulator IC. If we try to get 2.5A out when powering a 3.3V required output, the power dissipation of the LM317/LD1085 or the is (22V-3.3V)x2.5A=47 Watts that will cause the three terminal linear regulator IC to go into thermal shutdown repeatedly. An insulated, chassis mount regulator will go a long way for higher current requirements, or even a fan appropriately positioned.
@@kennmossman8701 Of course. The regulator needs to dissipate the power which is the current times the difference the input DC generated supply minus the the output voltage of the power supply. e.g. : 2.5Ax10V=25 Watts!
@@thehobe150 You missed my obvious point that the chassis is NOT a good heat-sink. Further it is hit and miss - i.e what are the thermal co-efficients.
@@kennmossman8701 The metal box enclosing the power supply is the best and only possible heat sink for the linear regulator. I am a former Linear Analog IC designer with 35 years experience for National Semiconductor and Linear Technology. The linear regulator needs to have some heat sink somewhere or the power supply will be very limited in it's power output, that's my only point. You could also attach the linear regulator to the large internal transformer for some heat sinking for short bursts of power. You cannot let the linear regulator to sit in an air ambient because the regulator will continually cycle on and off as the power supply is loaded, seriously reducing the life of the regulator.
Nice video and very informative for beginner like me, i hope this circuit may upgrade, im interested in transistor and constant current features of it..thanks
I used a Pi Filter on the liner one I built from junk '70s stereo transformer a couple of years ago, and it works well. I used 14 gauge magnet wire on a large toroid and some 2000uf 200v electrolytic caps for switching supplies. I measured 5 amps at 60 volts on a load.
Great video! I watched the whole thing. One critique would be that I noticed was that you (I’m sure inadvertently) mounted the ac power cord assemble upside down, so that the rocker switch is down for “on”. 😮 Otherwise excellent video. I’ve built several of these in my +37 years of electronics.
Hi, very interessing video. It seems that the heatsink is to small to dissipate the power. When the output is set to 1V and provides 3A, the dissipation of the LD1085V will be (25-1)*3=24*3=72W ! The heatsink need to be very large and at the outide of the case for better heat transfer to the air...
Hi everyone - It's come to my attention that there has been someone masquerading as myself, responding to some comments here with a link to a Telegram chat to win a prize from me. THIS IS A SCAM, I am not holding a contest, nor do I have a Telegram account. PLEASE DO NOT RESPOND TO THESE MESSAGES!!
It's happening on a lot of my videos, I'm taking steps to remove them manually, but as I have 162 videos, it will take some time. If you do run across a suspicious comment, I would appreciate you letting me know at info@dronebotworkshop.com.
Thanks!
Bill (The real one!)
It's a bit of a problem with many Western practical and news same scan on hundreds of YT videos. No one who want to talk privately will ask you to use telegram and be suspicious of links in chat. Love your Vids respect bro
Professional Power Supply, the last power supply I built, was some 50 years ago as an apprentice in a TV/Radio repair shop, now retired I want to build one of these, in place of the commercial P/S I use, your calmness on explaining, reminded me of the Engineer that taught me Electronics & Repair, your doing a wonderful job, I'm now a subscriber.
I've watched perhaps 20 of your videos, and, if I were someone wanting to produce informational or how-to videos, (or if I speak with anyone planning to pursue it,) I would reference them to this particular video. I would go on about what I like specifically, but this video has it all. Not that your others lack, it's just that- within the scope of a "simple" power supply, your example of a YT producer wouldn't get lost on someone who is not interested in electronics, and they could profit from your absolutely fantastic way of filming, lighting, recording audio, adding effects, linking to other sources, consistency, and so, so much more. I know this comes a year after you posted it, but I've saved it for both the reference for others and because I definitely will be building this as my first full scratch system build. What a great job you continue to do!!! Thanks so much for all your hard work!!!
The quality of the project and the clarity of the tutorial makes this channel the best for electronics. Thank you for imparting this wisdom to us earthlings.
A great instructor indeed.
Agree 100%
Thou doth protest too much! 👽
Hello! Retired mechanical engineer here. When I went through school we didn't quite use a kite and a key for a power supply but electronics instruction in the ME curriculum was pretty preliminary and not very practical. I vaguely remember a semester of Kirkoff's loops but was glad when it was over. However in my declining years I've taken a real interest in small electronics projects and your videos have been a terrific aid in my endeavors. My sincere thanks for all your efforts. Wonderfully understandable and straightforward!!
I have built so many of these through the years. The 78xx series and the LM317 made it simple and you could always get a decent transformer out of old electronics. I still have one I built in 89 as part of my breadboard setup. It has 5v, 12v and a variable section similar to what you built. The whole thing was built into a metal and wood sided box I had from an old audio amp.
I am so grateful for your videos. Im a self taught tinker-er and have been repurposing electrical components for a couple years now and am learning more from you than pricey course videos I've used. Thank you sir! Im a loyal fan.
I’ve been watching so many diy videos and I think them most of them are made by Indians or bangles. No commentary, very little description, and the same washed up stock RUclips techno music. Then I found drone bot workshop and everything is so clear step by step. No need to screen shot and zoom in on parts of the video to try and figure what things are on Google. I come here and leave here with a sense of having learned things, and knowing I can do it. I’m almost 40 and just getting into electronics. Please don’t change your style. 👍😎👍
ESCARGENCY
I am just learning electronics too and he has every thumbs up
An excellent video, from which even experienced builders can gain tips; I did. Thank you. A few points that I noted... 1) I do not recall that you discussed the additional overhead voltage needed by the voltage regulator. Lots of people just add 1.5 volts, above the voltage regulator's output rating. However, a close inspection of the data sheet reveals that a minimum of 3V of additional voltage is required for the best ripple rejection. 2) The small, rectangular trim pots are not intended for continuous use. They are meant to be set, once, for some calibration factor and not turned, again, except for fresh calibrations. That is the way that you are employing them; this is just a tip for inexperienced builders. They will fail, quickly, with regular use. Use a knob-style pot, for user adjustments. 3) Using resistor dividers to create additional output voltages limits the current supplied by those outputs to the current carrying ability of the resistors used, not the regulated voltage supplied. Meaning, the LD1085 can supply 3A, but the trim pots that you used can only carry a fraction of that. By extension, that means that a calculation based on the trim pots wattage rating will be necessary to determine the current that can be sourced for the additional outputs. Or, if you intend to purchase resistors for the purpose of carrying the full 3A, you will need to make a similar calculation to determine the wattage rating they will needed. 4) The style of Volt/Amp Meter that you are using has a known minor issue... They source there voltage from the DUT circuit. This is called "burden voltage." Therefore, they do not display the exact voltage of the DUT. There are RUclips videos on this problem and how to correct the wiring. 5) Most of us now own inkjet printers and they do not do as well for creating labels. So, another easy method for labeling is to create the label in your favorite draw program and, once laid out properly, print it onto white paper as a mirror image. You can find the mirror image printout setting in the file/print properties function. Then, take the paper to a big-box office supply store and have them use their laserjet printer to copy it onto clear film transparency paper. Because you printed a reverse image, the tender ink will be behind the clear film and protected, once you orient the print to read correctly from the front. Cheers!
Very helpful observations. The tip about printing onto clear mylar is very useful!
@@douglas2lee929 Thank you!
You make many good points, but with regard to (3), I don't think you have a correct understanding about how the circuit is (probably!) wired. Unfortunately, no schematic of the full circuit is provided (that I recall), but I believe that the 4-way switch is used to select one of four voltage divider pairs to set the output voltage, rather than having the supply current passing directly _through_ these pots. Three of these dividers are provided by the trimpots on the circuit board, and the one for user-adjustable output voltage is composed of the panel pot plus a trimmer on the circuit board (used to optimize voltage range). All these dividers are sourced from the output of the regulator. The wipers/set point voltages from these pots feed into the points on the switch, with the centre pin of the switch connected to the adjustment pin on the regulator. Therefore, the circuit *is* capable of providing full power to the external load regardless of which voltage divider is used, since in all cases the regulator output is directly connected to the positive binding post.
Thanks for the other observations and suggestions! I especially like the idea of using clear film transparency paper and a laser printer to label the chassis. The only thing unclear about this is how to mount the transparency onto the case, but I suppose something like 3M Super77 spray adhesive would do the job. Is that what you use?
@@andreafalconiero9089 "with regard to (3), I don't think you have a correct understanding about how the circuit is (probably!) wired." That is quite possible. "The only thing unclear about this is how to mount the transparency onto the case, but I suppose something like 3M Super77 spray adhesive would do the job. Is that what you use?" I do use spray adhesive and I like it very much. But, for this application, I believe it could be seen through the clear plastic. So, I would use a different approach... I would make the label to be slightly smaller than the entire size of the face plate. I would cut very accurate holes for the switches/pots, etc. I would remove all the knobs/etc. I would then apply the label to the face plate and use the hardware/nuts/etc. to secure the label in the middle of the plate. I would finish the edges by applying some type of decorative tape. But, each individual should use their creative instincts and work with the supplies and tools that they have. It should be fun. Cheers!
@@t1d100 Thanks for the reply.
I like your suggestion for mounting the transparency, but thought of a couple of others as well:
1) If the spray adhesive would mess up the appearance of the background, it might be possible to fix the problem using a paint layer on top of the printing. I would try applying an opaque spray paint onto the printed side, and then use spray adhesive to bond _that_ to the case. As long as the paint layer doesn't separate from the transparency film, it should look good and both the adhesive and the case itself would be hidden. This could work particularly well if one was re-using an old case with unwanted holes, etc., since these too would be covered over.
2) There are quite a few project cases that have a separate plate for the front and rear panels that slides into a groove on the case. By using one of those, it should be easy to keep the transparency in place without using any adhesive and/or paint, just by setting it loosely within the frame and relying on the knobs, meters, etc. to hold it in position, as you suggested.
I am from Bangladesin. I am only a graphic designer. I had no practical knowledge of electronics. After watching your tutorial video I have made a Variable power supply. Salute you, sir
Just the shear fact that this information is free yet alone masterfully compiled and explained…wow. You’re amazing!
This was a seriously great tutorial. Personally I would have watched an extended series that included preparing the chassis, soldering the perfboard - there was just so much good info in there about how to approach a project like this.
❤
I have a Chinese DCDC Boost/Buck converter coming in today and this video releases at the same time! I'm a beginner and this was incredibly helpfuL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Seriously awesome thank you!
I've built linear and PWM power supplies over the years. I try to keep my circuits running cool. I believe that this project would benefit from a large heat sink on the regulator IC. The amount of heat can build up fast and catch you off guard. With plenty of open space on the back of the case looks like a good location for the heat sink. It is also possible with an op amp and some other components to get the low end of the voltage regulation down to 0 volts. If you don't care about the circuit being more complicated current regulation could also be added. For a simple Bench top Power supply this is an excellent project and I would highly recommend it. I think I would go with an electrolytic cap on the output as I have seen too many of the tantalum caps short when they go bad. I wish people would have given me feedback on some of my projects as it is sometimes easy to overlook something when designing and making a project. I love this channel.
I'm Brazilian and despite not having a great knowledge of the English language I loved this class. I have no words to describe this wonder of knowledge and for sharing it with us. Thank you very much.
Success and a big hug from here Brazil
Luis, your written English is perfect. You hav a better grasp of the English language than do many for whom it is their mother tongue.
sooo... I've just spent an hour and a bit watching this and I am completely and utterly blown away!
Blown away by the sheer amount of great information!
Blown away by the easy to follow way it is presented!
Blown away by the way you have explained everything, and I do mean EVERYTHING! So many times I watch a video and they skip over explaining the thinking behind the little things, but not here, it is so refreshing!
Blown away by how easy you make it all sound, and even though it isn't as easy as you make it sound you have explained everything to the nth degree so I can't see how anyone with even a tiny amount of electronics knowledge couldn't follow this video and make a great power supply AND know how everything works AND why you made the choices you made!
Blown away by it all basically! 😁👍
I will definitely be following your tutorial and making my own, with my own little changes as I know how and why I can and should do it!
Hungry for more now so I have subscribed and liked this, will be flitting through your other videos to see what catches my eye and my next few projects!
A friend of mine gave me 2 x HP 6214A linear supplies that didn't work. Took them home and fixed them.
That was like 20 years ago. They're still my lab power supplies!
14 volts at 1.2A is more than I've needed in all these years.
For big load testing, I have lead acid batteries used on my UPS and 60V 8A Boost converter with adjustable voltage and current.
Hello. Thanks so much for the input.
I need the power supply that can charge a 200amps battery. Something that gives over 14V 30amps
@@quickfixengineeringltd8035 What is the chemistry of your battery?
@@piconano dry cell lead
Bravo Bill. Excellent video and explanation. I watched the entire thing and was very happy that I did. Labeling panels has always been my weak point in building. You have given me some new ideas! Again bravo my friend.
I really appreciate these courses. He has a lot of information and makes things very interesting to learn and helps fill in the gaps.
Well done on the video, great guidance for anyone setting out. I am not new to power supply design but you have convinced me about the nibbler! Not a correction or a criticism but a good precaution for a build like this is to cover the chassis area under the circuit board with Kapton tape. A great instructional and anyone building the power supply should find it very useful for years to come.
Great project but couple of comments for anyone trying to build this exact design.
You will need a much larger heatsink for the regulator. A linear regulator drops the voltage between its input and output, the byproduct is heat. So if you have 1A load and the regulator input voltage is 30V but output is 5V, the regular will need to drop 25W of power (25V*1A). This is another reason linear regulator based power supplies are heavy. You can get better cooling using a thermal switch and controlling a fan when the heatsink gets too hot.
A lot of these LDO’s and older regulators (like classic the LM317) require enough bias current on the adjust pin to overcome the leakage current. The datasheet of the LM317 talks about this. You don’t need to use a trimpot to adjust the maximum output voltage, the datasheet will give you the equation and sometimes examples.
As few others have pointed out, a diode from the output to the input will help protect the regulator and discharge any capacitive loads that might at the output. LM317 datasheet has an example.
A nice addition would be a fuse at either the AC input or output of the rectified voltage. Putting a chassis mounted fuse at the AC input will help replacing the fuse a lot easier in case the fuse blows.
Lastly thank you for taking the proper precautions and insulating the AC main lines come into the box. A lot of other DIY projects don’t.
Bill, Another Masterpiece !!!! !! ! I was both entertained and educated at the very same time. my brain learns a lot with the way you build these videos. I can only imagine the work behind this. But I will certainly be trying to at least see if I can locate a transformer :D thanks a ton !!
It is good practice to install a reverse diode across the regulator input to output pins, this prevents regulator damage when an external voltage is accidently applied to the output of the power supply, easily done with a bench supply.
How exactly can you do that?
Thank you for an interesting and informative video. Obviously there are time constraints on such a production, but I would recommend some brief additions which I think are important in an article which includes the word "designing" in its title:
1 - at about 19min, connect the rectifier to 48R//1000µF to show that on-load the output has a reduced voltage and some ripple, the lowest part of which must still be within the input voltage range of the regulator. Maybe add another 1000µF to halve the ripple.
2 - at or before 19min, add that the transformer must have a VA rating about 1.6 times (the raw DC output voltage) × (DC current output) or it will overheat.
3 - Stress that the peak input voltage to the regulator MUST NOT APPROACH its data sheet "abs max" spec.
I think these points could be covered inside a minute total, provided you don't take the extra time to explain why (2) and (3) are necessary.
Anyway, congratulations on a nice, instructive, helpful and practical article.
Thanks! Again another great video. I almost skipped the first part then saw your test transformer setup and realized I want to build that too. Thanks again
Thanks Kyle, glad to hear that you watched the whole thing!
This is a great project, and it makes such a neat package :D
I'd love to see a project based on a programmable regulator and combined with an arduino to show voltage and current on a custom display. You could use push buttons to jump to a custom voltage, and a rotary encoder.
The front panel talk was an interesting segment, worthy of a video in and of itself, the various methods of creating a panel. Laser engraving, machine engraving, laser printer toner transfer (how some people make PCBs). Even using PCBs themselves as panels. One technique I've used it to print off the whole panel on paper, laminate it and cut it out, then glue that to the front panel.
Nicely done. For cutting larger holes in a metal or plastic chassis, I use a Dremel tool with a cut wheel. That works well and is quite quick. Safety glasses are a must. Take care 😊
You are doing an excellent job, and it is very entertaining and relaxing. Another advantage I may add to linear PWR supplies is that they are more durable than switch-mode PWR supplies. If any component failed in SW-mode supply. They stop working.
I first got into electronics as a hobby when I was in college. The first thing that I ever built was a linear power supply that provided regulated 5VDC and regulated 12VDC using a 7805 and 7812.. Got most of the parts at the neighborhood Radio Shack. I designned and etched the board myself using a photo resist.
Video is very descriptive, quite rare on YT. I knew most of info here, but I assembled knowledge from *tens* of other videos! And it was enough just to watch *this* video. :) I'm still sure despite all those "switching supplies", people MUST have linear PSU to power home projects - at least to exclude HF problems during development.
Thank you for another excellent video Bill. It was really good. This is one of the best introductions to linear power supplies I've seen. I really like your benchtop supply you made as well. I just made the switching supply version using an ATx power supply a couple of months back. I'm tempted to try this for having a higher range and the variable voltage feature. Fantastic video!
I’ve watched electronics videos over time and this has stood out not because it’s something new but it’s the way and how simple things are being explained in it. Thumbs up 👍🏽, I have one little challenge though, I’ve been trying to build a power supply with both positive and negative points and I have a single 24VAC power supply, will it work properly if I connect both the negative circuitry and the positive circuitry in parallel to the transformer output??
One of the best and simplest explanation between a linear and switching psu.
Hi everyone what a good video 👍 . One of my hobbies is model railroading, and the amount of electronics used to make one work is amazing. Thank you Drone Bot Workshop 👍👍
Not sure if you've been in hibernation or RUclips has been keeping you in the shadows but it's darn good to have u back!
And as luck has it, i was about to make myself a linear PSU with a 24v 4amp transformer I've had on the shelf for the last 2 years 😉.
Thank you Bill for a great lesson in building and understanding a power supply. I also learned the difference between linier and switching. Thank you for sharing. Take care.
Awesome video and channel!
There is one problem. When switching between fixed voltages, the voltage becomes momentarily unregulated. As the voltage spikes show at (1:09:00)
It seems like the voltage regulator just becomes a 0.7V drop diode when there is no resistor connecting it to ground. Any project connected to it might not like the full 22V rectified voltage.
Maybe it is better to have the lower part of the voltage divider fixed and put the switch and turn pot resistor on the higher part. Possibly with the 3.3V resistor as bypass resistor for the others, so that it is the minimum voltage. Or an other value bypass resistor to set a minimum voltage, so the regulator is not stressed out because it has no feedback from its output.
Ideally I would drop this ugly "voltage switcher" and just make output sockets with fixed voltage. It takes more space on device, but way easier and safer in terms of scheme (just use L7805 and like).
You have put a lot of effort into creating this very educational and organized video. I am very impressed!
This video is properly well produced.
Well done! And thank you.
This is the most informative and educational video around here. So much details and all explained with schematics and detailed testing and showcase about every single component, this is like school but 1000x better, you can learn a lot here. Thank you so much.
I'm an EET and gleaned quite a bit of knowledge from this video. Thank you! You're quite meticulous in your methodology. Much appreciated. Thanks again.
SMPS CAN BE more efficient than a linear voltage regulator - but not always. You have to examine the efficiency graph on the spec sheet and read the specs carefully. It is easy to be misled.
Linear VRs are much cleaner and more like a battery. SMPS can be noisy.
A SMPS may have trouble with inductive or high capacitance loads.
Many commercial SMPS do not have short-circuit protection.
I'm in an epic 4 month deep rabbit hole right now you can't even fathom. Started with building a lifepo4 battery with a tutorial from Will Prowse. Months and hundreds of electrical related videos later, I find myself unable to learn enough about everything electrical.
Gonna be mfking Raiden by time I get my fill...
Just found your channel and subscribed. Linear power supplies are also essential for music audio applications to power guitar amplifiers and effects where clean, noise free DC is required. For those who do not want to work with AC currents, you could consider making a video about constructing a power supply with +/-9 plus variable 1.5-12V outputs using a cheap wall wart as an input. This way you would not need the transformer or the rectifier either, bringing the cost, size and weight of the supply down considerably.
There already have been a lot of good comments regarding heat dissipation, reverse voltage protection at the VR, reverse current protection at the output, etc.
However, there is one thing I would like to add: In your design DC GND is connected to main earth.
This can lead to some subtle problems, for example:
a) It is not safe to cascade other power supplies with this supply.
b) It is not safe to use an oscilloscope with circuits powered by this supply, because the GND of an oscilloscope is also always connected to main earth (if no differential probes are used). This can easily lead to shorts by simply measuring.
Therefore virtually all power supplies are floating, i.e. the output is not connected to main in any way, by default.
This was a really great video. Information is given clearly and knowledge above a basic level isn't assumed. You always seem to do a great job with putting chapters into your videos which makes it so easy to come back and refer to something or jump forwards to key moments.
So I've been struggling to understand some concepts on how, why and where to use some electronic components. You just made them disappear. I've never seen a more well explained video in this field. Thank you so much, you have no idea how much I've learned from this video! 🙂
One rule of thumb for the input capacitor is 2000 uF per Amp. So for a 2 Amp PSU use a cap around 4000 uF
Thank you very much for the thorough presentation. I appreciate the efforts in making such a comprehensive lesson. All the best, Paul
My English is bit poor but electronics project understand proper, this is good tutorial for all learners. Thanks and subscribed for you
What a great project and video! I watched the entire video and I plan to build one. Thank you so much for your great RUclips channel.
Having gone from LM317 at around 10W to a quad 400W, that's 4 x 400W, using LM317's / TIP5C's, massive heat sinks and 6 fans, 4 transformers, etc, etc. purely for the fun of it I can quite honestly say this is a good video. My only concern would be the heat sink for the LM317 - it's too small. I like the LM338 (5A) but again heat is a problem. The LT1083 is a beast at 7.5A and so far I have not popped one. Forgot 80,000uF.
I wish I could (legally) make my own power supply here in Australia. We are not (legally) even allowed to change a plug end on an extension cord without using a licensed electrician. I am comfortable with AC power, had all the safety training, but without paying for a licence I am not allowed to do it. I guess it is lucky that less safe power supplies are available on ebay that we can legally kill ourselves with :). Sorry, being a bit facetious there. It can be frustrating being an a country with such restrictions.
Brendan ,salutare din Romania : NU PLANGE!!!! !aici se fac multe lucrari neautorizate si din cauza aceasta iau foc spitale,maternitati si blocuri .Desi ,,pompierii'' nu dau autorizatie de functionare in cladiri se continua activitatea Recent a luat foc la un spital camera unde erau in incubatoare 50 de bebelusi.De curand a luat foc o biserica si un parking de autovehicule ( parking cars).In Romania electricienii care lucreaza fara autorizatie se numesc ,,electriciean-zugrav ''.Poti face lucrari daca ai diploma de electrician dar trebuie autorizata de cineva si stampilata.
No offense but try to learn how to move are you going to tell them that you are trying to build one cuz I'm not just do you enjoy your life
You can definitely change your own plug here in Aus. Maybe go get your test and tag licence if you don't know what you're doing or want to use the cables commercially. You can also make your own power supply if you're competent.
@@CalmAsHinduCow No you can not. Under the Australian law, you must be a qualified electrician for attaching a new plug to the end of a lead. Definitely can NOT do any 240v wiring, whether on an extension lead or on fixed wiring.
You may be able to make your own power supply, but an electrician has to wire the 240V side to a socket or plug.
Might be a good thing to check the rules as it seems you have made a mistake there.
To quote from a reputable electricians website, who is paraphrasing from the legislatiion - Note that attaching a new plug to the end of a lead is one of the things in the list.
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Can I Do These Simple Electrical Tasks?
Many everyday people around Australia would be guilty of doing these seemingly more simple electrical tasks at some point in their lives, and may have performed some of these tasks without even knowing they have actually broken any laws.
These include things like:
Replacing a light switch or power point
Building your own extension lead
Repairing an electrical appliance
Installing a new light fitting
Attaching a new plug to the end of a lead
Replacing a lead on an appliance
Installing a ceiling fan
These are just some of the more common things DIYers might be tempted to do themselves, or actually have done. However, as innocuous as some of these tasks might seem, it’s still dangerous and against the law to make these fixes yourself if you’re unlicensed.
*******
If you want to do it and break the law, and invalidate insurance, that;s fine. Go ahead. Just hope it doesn't fail as insurance are very good at rejecting claims for leads that are not certified and do not meet the standards (which includes moulded plug ends)
The King just wants to make sure every action is a source of tax revenue. 😂
As always, you provide clear an thorough information on the matter. Thank you for putting in the substantial effort!
Thank you so much for a clear and simple approach to building a bench power supply, I'll give it a go
Very good, simple and clear explanation of Linear Power Supplies.
Thank you sir 🙏 ❤️ greetings from India /UAE
This is an awesome tutorial with plenty of learning to be had, although i can't help feeling it is a lot of work compared to buying one possibly cheaper and being able to use it straight away, after all the tools have been purchased to build this power supply it works out much more expensive than buying a ready made unit, although it is always nice to be using something that you made yourself.
True enough But even if you don't build one yourself (I already have a commercial box) this excellent tutorial provides a clear explanation of how they work and what the important considerations are. I watched the entire video and consider it time very well spent. This is one of the best sites for electronics tutorials. Even the most minor details like labeling the panel are helpful. This guy's clear, calm and low key presentation (typically Canadian?) Is relaxing. A master instructor.
You do an excellent job in how you move from general to specifics, and your production is great. Thanks for reminding me I used to be an electrical engineer in the late 1970s!
This takes me back to one of my EE classes when I built a power supply similar to this.
At about 54:00 you stated a desire to avoid using connectors on the PCB, preferring soldered connections. But at 57:30 you are using terminal blocks to connect your dial assembly. Was this an unplanned change made along the way? That is quite common when designing products. I prefer the later choice. I like to keep things neat and tidy inside the enclosure. It makes it much simpler to track down any problems. It's also kinder for anyone working with it later.
Great video. You have a good classroom feel.
A good source for a linear regulated power supply is any of the "SOLA" type industrial power supplies. They can be found in 5v, 12v and 24v versions at different amperage's. Usually they are very affordable and would be a good foundation. Some of them use an adjustable regulator that is good over a voltage range of 2v-36v.
For this project you might want to add some protection (zener diodes, etc) because if you ever loose regulation you'll get the full output of the rectifier.
Great tutorial. The design would have been more flexible if all of the voltages were made available simultaneously as outputs with separate readouts ! This need is frequent in my case.
Needs a more complex circuit at greater cost, of course !
I have made covers out of plexiglass, ut is easy to work with and readily available from lots of business that have taken down their Covid shields. Use Weld-on 3 to "glue" pieces together.
Excellent Bill ! Nice review of available linear voltage regulators. Regards, RJM
From Montreal, new to the channel and learning about electronics. Thanks for the tutorials!
I would have liked to see a test on thermal performance. How long does it take before a load of 3A at 3.3V trigger the thermal protection with that small heatsink? However an excellent explanation as always, thanks!
I suspect the math, though not that hard, deters YT channels from really discussing heat-sinks. I think I have a PPT I made on the subject
@@kennmossman8701 , IMHO I think that if you draw 2.5A at an output voltage of 2V, the regulator cannot dissipate about 50W of power with such a small passive heatsink.
I apreciate the choise of the knobs for the potentiometer and the switch. they look nice
Así fue justo como aprendí a lo largo de mi carrera de electrónica, la explicación es increíble y no queda lugar para dudas, excelente trabajo, el video es una joya llena de aprendizaje, enhorabuena y gracias por compartirlo!
Awesome! I can't wait to use this knowledge in a next project. Thanks for the christal clear explanation!
Fantastic lesson!!! No words to describe how thankful I am! Cheers from Brazil!
This is an excellent tutorial demonstrating a practical and soundly designed power supply.
Весьма подробно всё описано для новичков в электротехнике, но есть серьёзная оплошность - недопустимо малый размер радиатора на стабилизатор!!! Такой радиаторчик уместен, если блок питания использовать как демонстрационный, с минимальной нагрузкой!
40:02 It actually flickers in real life too, we just don't see it due to the natural sluggishness of the eye. Great tutorial.
Good tuto about the good ole linear regulators. They still have my preference (because of low noise), and will still be around for a while. They are just rather indestructible😉(ok..maybe not always😁)and yes, very fast response time.
Ohhh. I just wrote the same. For lab use NOTHING matches a linear one for the reasons you mentioned and much more. Only if LOT of current its necessary would think on a switching one . ( for lab use)
I always loved power supplies... Still using my Elektor PS from the early 80-ties, with the epic 2N3055's.
Jahajaja. The 2n3055. Hotter than a pizza oven .... remember them ....
@@eloyex I use massive cooling and in some cases added a small ventilator. You can easily parallel them too! Great stuff!
Finally an electrical engineering channel that doesn’t have an impossible to understand accent, incredibly poor explanations and a camera that flies all over the place
Great video, thank you very much for your sharing, greetings to you from Algeria🇩🇿💚.
Great job, looks really professional. Judging your thoroughness I would guess you were a teacher at some time in your life! Maybe computer science or electronics?
A very fine tutorial, one of the best I've seen on RUclips, thanks! I've been building these things since the early 70s and I think I will build another one to use as a bench P/S and to provide noiseless power to the LED lighting in my workshop. One thing I would like to add that few people discuss, however, is a Constant Current adjustment so one can limit the amount of current that is fed into the device under test. This feature is common to nearly all good quality lab power supplies as it can prevent accidental shorts from damaging or destroying the test circuit before the fuse in the power entry module has had time to blow. Can that be added to this design do you think?
I would love to know this too! Have you found anything?
There's various ways of doing a constant current regulator from a 2 transistor circuit to the 317 regulator ic. Both circuits do drop some voltage as well which can vary and are best placed before any voltage regulator circuit. For a 12 volt supply I would suggest a 20 volt 2 amp transformer using 2 lots of the 317 regulator ic's. One of the ic's operates as the current regulator with the other operating as a variable voltage regulator after the current regulator. Allow a minimum difference of about 2.5 to 3 volts across the voltage regulator ic with more across the current regulator ic. There was a project that appeared in Everyday Electronics back in 1981. Most transformers available do have a pair of secondary windings and there's a considerable size jump between 25VA and 50VA in the EI core wound types.
i really like the high level of your explanations.
great video, thanks !
Nice video. Very well explained. Could you perhaps also explain how you would add a variable current limiter to the power supply?
Use LM317 as variable constant current regulator and another LM317 for variable voltage regulator.
Another option for anyone who doesn't want to deal with mains voltage is to use a class II wall-wart transformer. They're easy to find, and can be had pre-terminated with a barrel connector.
Very informative! I built my own linear power supply that I use to test dc motors. There's no voltage regulator, but it works great for testing stuff and to powering my homemade bandsaw 👍
Fantastic Video !!!!! You are a fantastic teacher !!!!! Im learning electronics and I have been learning a lot by watching your videos. I want to thank you for sharing your knowledge !!!!
I wish you had shared the assembly of the board.
I think I bought my first nibbler about the same time you did. I usually mark off the hole with masking tape to act as a straight edge guide and also prevent scuffing up the cut face. I haven't seen Letraset in years, you probably have the last sheets in existence. ;)
All of these videos you have made have helped me understand so much! Thank you!!
Thank you for taking the time to make this video, please keep up your great work.
other options for cases are small computer cases which can be priced lower than a project case of similar size. A decent source of low volt hi amp transformers can be found by modifying the low volt coil of microwave oven transformers, just be sure to remove the hi volt winding on the output side. Salvaging MWOs and computers and TVs can save a fair amount of money for "learning/test" projects. If you want extreme accuracy voltage control, a 10 turn pot in series with the main voltage controlling pot is the way to go.
I actually really like the idea of 3.3v/5v/12v/variable
Just a mention with a linear power supply that you need to plan ahead, taking into account the power dissipation of the linear regulator IC. If we try to get 2.5A out when powering a 3.3V required output, the power dissipation of the LM317/LD1085 or the is (22V-3.3V)x2.5A=47 Watts that will cause the three terminal linear regulator IC to go into thermal shutdown repeatedly. An insulated, chassis mount regulator will go a long way for higher current requirements, or even a fan appropriately positioned.
use the chassis as a heat-sink??
@@kennmossman8701 Of course. The regulator needs to dissipate the power which is the current times the difference the input DC generated supply minus the the output voltage of the power supply. e.g. : 2.5Ax10V=25 Watts!
@@thehobe150 You missed my obvious point that the chassis is NOT a good heat-sink. Further it is hit and miss - i.e what are the thermal co-efficients.
@@kennmossman8701 The metal box enclosing the power supply is the best and only possible heat sink for the linear regulator. I am a former Linear Analog IC designer with 35 years experience for National Semiconductor and Linear Technology. The linear regulator needs to have some heat sink somewhere or the power supply will be very limited in it's power output, that's my only point. You could also attach the linear regulator to the large internal transformer for some heat sinking for short bursts of power. You cannot let the linear regulator to sit in an air ambient because the regulator will continually cycle on and off as the power supply is loaded, seriously reducing the life of the regulator.
@@thehobe150
LMAO AGAIN justify in terms of thermal co-efficients.
like theta SA.............
I know you can not
Nice video and very informative for beginner like me, i hope this circuit may upgrade, im interested in transistor and constant current features of it..thanks
Hope you are well back again and ready for new projects
The explanation is so good. Excellent work. Thanks for the lesson.
THIS Is the video I’ve been waiting for my whole life. So…so happy I found your channel.
I used a Pi Filter on the liner one I built from junk '70s stereo transformer a couple of years ago, and it works well. I used 14 gauge magnet wire on a large toroid and some 2000uf 200v electrolytic caps for switching supplies. I measured 5 amps at 60 volts on a load.
I have been thinking about using it for nichrome wire cutting and adjusting heat with a solid-state relay and pulse width.
Your explanations are extremely well done ✔✔✔ easy to understand and clear to the point love your work. And the you for your time
Another great instructive tutorial! Thanks!
Great video! I watched the whole thing. One critique would be that I noticed was that you (I’m sure inadvertently) mounted the ac power cord assemble upside down, so that the rocker switch is down for “on”. 😮 Otherwise excellent video. I’ve built several of these in my +37 years of electronics.
Like the way every aspects are explained in detail
Hi, very interessing video. It seems that the heatsink is to small to dissipate the power. When the output is set to 1V and provides 3A, the dissipation of the LD1085V will be (25-1)*3=24*3=72W ! The heatsink need to be very large and at the outide of the case for better heat transfer to the air...