All I'm seeing in the comments is "the filter can catch those pieces" or "the particles are too small to do damage" but none of them actually have anything that argues against having a magnet on your system. Worst case scenario it doesn't do anything. best case it extends the life of your engine. So what do you have to lose?
Good review, any particle removed from the oil supply will impact the engine wear and will reduce it...simple physics. Magnets in my opinion, used like this, is not snake oil if you plan on keeping the engine worth it. Thank you for your time to make this video.
I have a 2004 Corolla ,bought it new and use magnets on both the filter and the drain plug.the car now has 262,000 miles on it and it doesn’t burn any oil.I change oil every 5,000 miles. When the air goes ,it goes .I live in SC. I change the transmission fluid every 50,000 also . It has original automatic trans in it. Not a flush,just what’s in the pan. The transmission pan has magnets in it from the factory so it must work. They always had metal on them when changing fluid.
the main parts you want to keep the metal particles out of is the main and rod bearings as well as camshaft brgs and journals. Although main ,rod and camshaft brgs are soft so the metal particles will embedd in the brg to help keep them off the polished crankshaft journals it's better if metal particles never reach them.
It helps with the flow through the pleats of the filter itself. The filter would catch this small metal particles, but it would eventually clog up in the filter media if you went with extended oil and filter changes. It's a good idea to use magnets as long as they are the correct ones
IF you really want to trap the metallic debris . The best place is in the bottom of the oil pan where the oil moves the slowest which allows the metallic particals to settle to the bottom of the pan!
@Trollarc Ninja A problem with that theory, is that oil in the sump IS slow moving, snd fine, suspended particles can mak several 'laps' through the engine without ever getting stuck on a pan or drain magnet. On the other hand, a magnet on the side of, or inside of an oil filter will have the oil go past the magnet every time before the oil takes it's journey through the moving part of the engine. The magnet drain plugs best purpose is not to protect the engine from damage, but to provide and alert at oil change intervals,that there is unusual wear occuring, when one sees the larger particles which are being captured.
Many mention drain plug magnets. Yes they catch particles but their magnetic field wouldn't be anywhere near as strong or large as with big magnets or a filter mag magnet.
you had doubts.....? at least the metal is sitting on the casing not blocking pores of the paper element helping the filter flow oil and last the distance between changes.......
Hi Michael, most mainstream filter efficiencies do not catch any particles smaller than 35 microns in size. So most lube filters have an efficiency of 35 microns at 95% or higher meaning that the filter will catch approximately 95% of all particle larger than 35 microns. These particles are too large to enter the bearing clearances in the engine to cause damage, though its definitely good to trap them in the filter. Unfortunately its the particles that are much smaller that cause up to 80% of engine wear. Mainstream automotive filters have the poorest filter efficiencies as compared to any other equipment markets. GM study with API using ASTM D testing methods determined that the correlation between filter efficiency and engine wear in the late 80's. The outcome of the GM study was that engine wear could be reduced by 70% using a 15 micron rated at 98.7% efficiency. Unfortunately, GM never ever produced a filter with this efficiency, they are still putting 35-40 micron filters on their cars today, as well most of the other car manufacturers. Its the invisible Ghost particles smaller than 35 microns that are wearing out our engines and transmissions. Its a secret way to prematurely wear out our engines. You can't see the cause of the wear. Our eyes can not see particle smaller that 40 microns, unless there is a pile of them.Some studies concluded that 70% of engine wear is caused by particles less than 8 Microns. This is were magnetic filtration comes to the rescue, good magnets catch ferrous particles as small as 0.1 microns. Controlling these particles in engine oil can result in increasing the useful life of your engine by 10 times and increasing the life of your engine oil by up to 5 times. Add a drain plug magnet, make sure it is a non neodymium magnetic drain plug, this type loses its strength as your engine oil warms up and all the collected particles are released from the magnet back into the oil stream, another invisible Ghost at work wearing out our engines. The best I know of is a Dimple Drain Plug Magnet. Its a steel magnet bolt with the magnet machined in the plug, never strip or turn the corners off the drain plug. The mainstream magnetic drain plugs are generally made from aluminum and using Neodymium Rare Earth Technology.I have tested the DIMPLE drain plugs to be the best performing so far. I have achieved a 15/13/10 ISO Particle count with 25,000 miles on the engine oil with one of these magnets. If one could maintain this cleanliness code over the life of the oil and engine, you could logarithmically achieve more than 2.4 million miles on an engine before an overhaul would be necessary.Also, there is one company making mainstream engine lube filters rated at Beta 75, Absolute efficient 98.7% @ 20 microns. Rated for 15,000 miles and or 25,000 miles. Using a combination with this filter and Dimple Drain Plug Magnet to control wear particle is a guarantee that you will reduce your engine wear by at least 70% according al the studies correlating contaminant particle size with engine wear.
David Whittaker Finally someone who sounds like an ICML member I have seen some pretty impressive results with oil analysis using strong stick magnets and custom housings where not only ferrous metal counts being almost eliminated but silica levels (especially the lower micron range) drastically dropping Some theory’s with these results include static generated by circular movement of oil allows the silica to stick to the ferrous material and thereby stick to the magnet These samples were taken from big arse industrial gearbox’s
Good advice. I have installed a by-pass filter system on my 7.3 PSD which is supposed to filter down to 2-3 microns. It also has a magnetic drain plug, but will change it to the Dimple.
Yes Stephen, I have witnessed this sludgy matter accumulated on the drain plugs, along with the ferrous debris. It has to make a difference. The magnets typically lower ISO Particle counts by a half to one code.
If you guys have wix filters I'd go with those. Dunno if I'd call that much metal normal you should try sending your oil in for analysis. You can also buy magnetic oil drain plugs as well
It hit me after the video, that a fair bit of those metal particles look a lot like the metal that the filter is made out of. Since I beat it apart with a hammer and screwdriver, most likely some chunks came off in the process.
The particles that wear out your engine are too small for your filter to catch. That and you get the most of them at cold start. The magnets will catch Ferris metal particles but not other metals and carbon.
The oil itself still turns black, doesn't it... so clearly then it isn't pulling "everything" out of suspension. What is it making the oil black? Rubber, like from seals and gaskets... or burnt gas? or tiny pieces of metal, like dust?
The 4R70W transmission in the famous 95 MERC has a ceramic magnet in the transmission pan -- it gets cleaned when the Trans Filter gets replaced at 30,000 mile intervals.
Next to prolonged idling, the *cold start* of any engine is where 98% of the wear takes place as the engine has not yet expanded to it's operating temperature. Fleet operators now instruct driver to shut off the engine when making deliveries rather than allow the engine to idle. It is about wear patterns and oil consumption. Reasoning that most of the pattern is created within an RPM range, low idle RPM the piston /cylinder match is not so good as most of the time the engine is moving the vehicle down the road at speed. But yes, regardless, change that filter and oil
@@faisalalmalki7853 There is no alternative, at ANY price, that can compare with the FILTERMAG # SS365PR's Magnetic power, surface area, and heat stabilization. The FILTERMAG lasts forever, so the initial cost is meager.
They work for ferris alloys in the oil but the magnet has to be strong enough to saturate the metal shell, so there is a strong enough magnetic field inside.
To clarify: Magnets on the DOME END of the filter really don't do anything that would actually show up in an oil analysis test. Why? the filter is full of oil under pressure for sure, but the flow of oil is greatest at the open end of the filter, that is, the oil takes the shortest path thru the filter and if you have magnets located there, they will catch visible amounts of wear metals, ferrous type, while all other wear metals will drop as a result! The oil does not travel all the way to the end of the filter media before passing thru, so long/oversize filters does not improve anything as you might think. Long narrow bar magnets along the sides of the spin-on filter close to the mounting threads does work great though!
I prefer a magnet on the oil plug since then you can inspect it and see if you have an unusual amount of metal accumulated on it. I't of course from a flow perspective not ideal but it's better than nothing.
Interesting. However, these filters receive oil on the outside of the filter medium, filter it into the center of the medium, and thence back into the engine. So you caught metal that might have been filtered out of the oil, had you not stopped it.
@@SlikLizrd LOL, or just go into a friendly garage and see if they will cut open one for you! My grandfather had one of those magnetic deals that he put on the bottom of the sump of the oil pans of his cars for years. I do know that most of my recent cars have magnetic drain plugs on them.
@@fooman2108 I want my own tool -- 'cuz I do my own work. I spent the big bux to get a killer set of magnets, and I want to see for MYSELF just how well they work to take metal out of my engine oil. These are REALLY powerful magnets -- not a toy or plaything. I have owned a bunch of foreign cars -- many of them had magnetic drain plugs in the engines, transmissions, and differentials.
Können Sie empfehlen Medikamente für Furz und Durchfall? Ich Furz wie eine große Trompete. Vollen Klang, wie ein Kaiser Furz. Mein Durchfall fließt wie ein Fluss.
John Moyer Quite a few transmissions have magnets inside on the pan already. I cleaned a 1982 D150 pan that had loads of metal on its magnet from the factory. My trans in my 05 silverado is going a little on 2nd to 3rd but the magnet wont work all too terribly well but it has them already inside from the factory.
If you think it well there's no much sense putting the magnet there because those particles would mostly get trapped by the filter if they weren't stopped by the magnet, a good place for those magnets would be the oil pan, that way you avoid the metal particles from getting into the oil pump at first
Yes, a good choice to catch the ferrous wear, but difficult to clean the collected particles from the pan. It is a common practice on transmissions and hydrostatic drives. The pans are easily removed to service the filter and oil, so the pan cover is generally cleaned at this time, not so convenient to clean the engine oil pan. Alnico magnets have the highest heat rating, meaning they hold there strength as temperature rises. Medium costs as well.
David Whittaker the most logic place for the magnet would be the screw used for draining the engine oil, that would be very easy to check while changing the oil and I'm sure it would catch most of the particles on most of the cars (except some weird oil pans out there that would be less effective due to having a false bottom) Anyways if it was my car I would prefer to have to remove the oil pan rather than knowing all those particles are going into the pump
Ardent Fan any strong magnet on the pan is going to magnetize the pan area around where the magnet was attached. Even when you remove the magnet, the pan will still be magnetized and those particles will not flow out when you drain the oil. Just change your oil and filter on schedule, and you can put 1,000,000 kms on a good engine! There are lots of stories of people putting that kind of mileage on a vehicle by changing the oil/filter on time and doing engine tune-ups. If you maintain your vehicle well you don’t need magnets on your oil filter or your oil pan.
Made In Finland Great Quality Filter!! my 5 dollar china copycat filter would have broken into 20 pieces on the first hack attempt and revealed a 4000 page yellow pages element in it!
720,000 miles on my 1989 Ford truck with the IHI 7.3 Diesel engine (notorious for dirty oil), BAM! WITH MAGNETS. I change the oil every 12,000 miles, and the filter every 24,000 miles. Been using Magnesaver brand magnets, since 1993. Same routine on my G20 Chevy Van with the 350 cu. in V8, it had 424,000 mile on the odometer,but I sold it, since things like door hinges were wearing out, starting to nickle and dime me too death, At the end of the of the 3rd transmission, it was time for it to go, but the engine was still running strong - same magnets.
As if the average guy has a lathe! Better yet, have you guys ever heard of filter cutters ? They take about one minute to cut a filter open, and a clean cut. No shavings.
Many years ago I designed a reusable magnet filter housing and worked pretty good but because of loopholes in the patents rights I stopped. Magnets do work and catch the very fine particles that otherwise would go through the filter medium. Most oil filters ain't good at even cleaning oil. Yes even brand names I won't mention for fear of being dragged to court. I've found at least one make that does clean properly and that make is Purflux.
Although aluminium, alloys and copper won't be attracted to magnets but will reduce clogging so it can filter longer. Not many know that some filters have a bypass valve that incase your filter is blocked will bypass the filter and sends that dirty oil directly to your bearings. 😱 Bet most didn't know that.
Problem is on somee newer cars like toyota corollas using paper canister filters the outside housing is plastic so magnets wont stick to the plastic makes me wonder if car manufactures are doing this now so your unable to use the magnets therefore engine gets messed up in time so the dealerships are hoping the people come back to them to get new engine installed for big dollars$$$
When it came time to do the oil change in my last Corolla I found a new-old Fram filter under the seat from the last owner-- with a date from around 2011. it sat under that seat for three years... still put it in, still worked A-OK. I as well as a few others are probably the same as you, not a fan of Fram filters. the mechanic shop we take the van to for big repairs usually does our oil changes for us now since it's just a $15 job. they get them from the mom&pop auto parts place 5 buildings down, and I don't know what the hell brand they are since they're unbranded, but I'd trust my life to them more than I would a "Flimsy Fram" any day. I've seen plenty of filter gore from them. Will try the neodymium on the filter trick though, that seems like a helluva good idea now.
That's some Dark/Black Oil! Is that from a diesel or gas engine? I do believe in Magnets in the oil pan, never tried them on the filter. Thanks for the Video
I buy the drain plug with magnet on. it never thought about putting one on the actual oil filter. But ain't the filter supposed to filter that shit out?
It is true that aluminum is not magnetic, but metals like copper, brass, alluminum and others become temporarily magnetic due to magnetic fields induced by electric induction when cundictive materials are in motion within a magnetic field. It is called paramagnetism. Also, non-magnetic material becomes mechanically trapped by the iron and steel particles, and then move together and get stuck on the magetic area. That is probaby why you see aluminum pieces in the video. Aluminum, boron, copper, lead, magnesium, phosphorus, silicon, and sodium are all shown to be reduced as contaminants in standard engine oil analysis when neodymium oil filter magnets are used. However, most to those materials are not extremely abrasive, except to the silicon, which is the most abrasive material in the dirty oil.
There is not oil for 12.000Km.. 5.000 Km is the maximum life..Less in large town...! The magnets is good idea anyway..Thank you..AND love from Athens..
Of course, but what the filter cannot do, is remove the really fine material, that passes through the filter pores, which is responsible for about 70 to 90% of wearg in bearing areas, piston rings and cylinder walls, and valce stems and guides, according to research by the Society of Autommotive Engineers.
Heyy at 3:22 u are moving the magnets it seems that a light is shining true the metal is that because the metal.is realy thin orr just an elusion I would like.to hear from.u greetings from.holland
Change your oil regularly with quality oil and a quality oil filter with synthetic media and you wont have to worry about magnets or anything else.Why try to reinvent the wheel!
Checking for metal particles in hydraulic system oil sumps is a common and quick way of checking for trouble. Really surprising to me to see that much of it in an engine.
Does the Oil flow through the Filter Element before or after being passed by the Magnet? If the Magnet is capturing these particles after it has passed through the Filter Element (you have a Worthless Filter) if the Magnet is capturing the particles before it is run through the Element ... big whoop, they would be captured by the Filter Element (if it is a good one). Can't hurt to put the magnets there but I see no real benefit.
On my newly built engines I put magnets inside the engine at the oil pickup for the first 1000km. Upon the 1000km service I remove the sump and clean it all out and remove the magnets and the contaminants. No point really on putting magnets on the oil filter as the oil from the sump goes through the oil pump before it gets filtered. Replace engine oil on a more regular basis than what is stated(manufacturers state long intervals so that they save money while the car is still under plan by them)
go around the filt can with a bench grinder making a partial cut thru and then it cuts the rest of the was with your method under no stress at all... to run the test true to form the magnet needs to be on the other side of the paper element to catch particles that have gotten thru
Quote from FFcossag reply to another comment 4 months ago, "It hit me after the video, that a fair bit of those metal particles look a lot like the metal that the filter is made out of. Since I beat it apart with a hammer and screwdriver, most likely some chunks came off in the process."
Back on the 90s Avweb did a test on using 4 small Neodymium magnets 1 “ long x 3/16 arranged equally spaced around the canister. You oriented the poles each opposite to the neighbor . They said it really did gather metallic debris quite well. I had a set and must say they weren’t even close to those old hard drive magnets in power.. I’ve used both just stick them on there and they will stay put.
i usually drop a magnet or two into the oil fill hole for better scavenging of the metal shavings. I also drop 1 into my radiator every time i do a coolant flush just in case the shavings get passed the head gasket. oh and almost forgot, i put a bottle of MMO into my gas tank every time i fill up.
ihave35cents the oil is cleaner then when I initially pour it in. Also I have some knocking noise coming from the valve covers. That's how I know its working
¡I'm I want to fix my hesitation problem at idle on my 99 GMC Chevy truck with a 6.0 diesel engine what are we call it not that has it that the hesitation up rough idle I want to fix the rough idle situation with my 6.0 liter Chevy 1999 gas engine
All I'm seeing in the comments is "the filter can catch those pieces" or "the particles are too small to do damage"
but none of them actually have anything that argues against having a magnet on your system. Worst case scenario it doesn't do anything. best case it extends the life of your engine. So what do you have to lose?
very good demo, showing that the magnets do catch metal particles. that's less that ur filter has to catch, making it last longer.
Good review, any particle removed from the oil supply will impact the engine wear and will reduce it...simple physics. Magnets in my opinion, used like this, is not snake oil if you plan on keeping the engine worth it. Thank you for your time to make this video.
Good job, I've been doing this for year's. Magnets on the oil pan and filter.
Old hard drive magnets work great for this. They are very strong magnets. I think it's what he's using.
I have a 2004 Corolla ,bought it new and use magnets on both the filter and the drain plug.the car now has 262,000 miles on it and it doesn’t burn any oil.I change oil every 5,000 miles. When the air goes ,it goes .I live in SC. I change the transmission fluid every 50,000 also . It has original automatic trans in it. Not a flush,just what’s in the pan. The transmission pan has magnets in it from the factory so it must work. They always had metal on them when changing fluid.
the main parts you want to keep the metal particles out of is the main and rod bearings as well as camshaft brgs and journals. Although main ,rod and camshaft brgs are soft so the metal particles will embedd in the brg to help keep them off the polished crankshaft journals it's better if metal particles never reach them.
Been using magnets on my oil filters since my first vehicle, can't hurt to use em, little extra insurance for your engine.
It helps with the flow through the pleats of the filter itself. The filter would catch this small metal particles, but it would eventually clog up in the filter media if you went with extended oil and filter changes. It's a good idea to use magnets as long as they are the correct ones
IF you really want to trap the metallic debris . The best place is in the bottom of the oil pan where the oil moves the slowest which allows the metallic particals to settle to the bottom of the pan!
That's what I was thinking.
Like in the transmission pans.
@Trollarc Ninja A problem with that theory, is that oil in the sump IS slow moving, snd fine, suspended particles can mak several 'laps' through the engine without ever getting stuck on a pan or drain magnet. On the other hand, a magnet on the side of, or inside of an oil filter will have the oil go past the magnet every time before the oil takes it's journey through the moving part of the engine. The magnet drain plugs best purpose is not to protect the engine from damage, but to provide and alert at oil change intervals,that there is unusual wear occuring, when one sees the larger particles which are being captured.
And how would you easily check the metal inside the oil pan, without removing it?
Many mention drain plug magnets. Yes they catch particles but their magnetic field wouldn't be anywhere near as strong or large as with big magnets or a filter mag magnet.
Great idea. I could see that working great on a car with an iron engine block. Next time I change the oil in my car I will do this.
Now take those particles to the local high school and put it under a projecting microscope and measure the micron size of them.
that's brilliant! I have been thinking about doing this exact thing for some time now. I'll give it a go
I've put magnets on my oil filter, and am confident they capture ferrous wear particles from the oil stream.
A little gasoline would've washed away that all that oil so you could see the metal debris better.
A magnetic drain plug is better, and simpler, and cheaper. Why f around with little magnets.
little? =D hahaha those magnets are super magnets from a HDD
you had doubts.....? at least the metal is sitting on the casing not blocking pores of the paper element helping the filter flow oil and last the distance between changes.......
Without the magnets that bit of metal would have been trapped in the filter. That’s what it’s for.
you are correct, BUT the oil will be cleaner while going the filter, thus a better flow of oil. Now to say if this helps or not, I assume it would.
Hi Michael, most mainstream filter efficiencies do not catch any particles smaller than 35 microns in size. So most lube filters have an efficiency of 35 microns at 95% or higher meaning that the filter will catch approximately 95% of all particle larger than 35 microns. These particles are too large to enter the bearing clearances in the engine to cause damage, though its definitely good to trap them in the filter. Unfortunately its the particles that are much smaller that cause up to 80% of engine wear. Mainstream automotive filters have the poorest filter efficiencies as compared to any other equipment markets. GM study with API using ASTM D testing methods determined that the correlation between filter efficiency and engine wear in the late 80's. The outcome of the GM study was that engine wear could be reduced by 70% using a 15 micron rated at 98.7% efficiency. Unfortunately, GM never ever produced a filter with this efficiency, they are still putting 35-40 micron filters on their cars today, as well most of the other car manufacturers. Its the invisible Ghost particles smaller than 35 microns that are wearing out our engines and transmissions. Its a secret way to prematurely wear out our engines. You can't see the cause of the wear. Our eyes can not see particle smaller that 40 microns, unless there is a pile of them.Some studies concluded that 70% of engine wear is caused by particles less than 8 Microns. This is were magnetic filtration comes to the rescue, good magnets catch ferrous particles as small as 0.1 microns. Controlling these particles in engine oil can result in increasing the useful life of your engine by 10 times and increasing the life of your engine oil by up to 5 times. Add a drain plug magnet, make sure it is a non neodymium magnetic drain plug, this type loses its strength as your engine oil warms up and all the collected particles are released from the magnet back into the oil stream, another invisible Ghost at work wearing out our engines. The best I know of is a Dimple Drain Plug Magnet. Its a steel magnet bolt with the magnet machined in the plug, never strip or turn the corners off the drain plug. The mainstream magnetic drain plugs are generally made from aluminum and using Neodymium Rare Earth Technology.I have tested the DIMPLE drain plugs to be the best performing so far. I have achieved a 15/13/10 ISO Particle count with 25,000 miles on the engine oil with one of these magnets. If one could maintain this cleanliness code over the life of the oil and engine, you could logarithmically achieve more than 2.4 million miles on an engine before an overhaul would be necessary.Also, there is one company making mainstream engine lube filters rated at Beta 75, Absolute efficient 98.7% @ 20 microns. Rated for 15,000 miles and or 25,000 miles. Using a combination with this filter and Dimple Drain Plug Magnet to control wear particle is a guarantee that you will reduce your engine wear by at least 70% according al the studies correlating contaminant particle size with engine wear.
David Whittaker
Finally someone who sounds like an ICML member
I have seen some pretty impressive results with oil analysis using strong stick magnets and custom housings where not only ferrous metal counts being almost eliminated but silica levels (especially the lower micron range) drastically dropping
Some theory’s with these results include static generated by circular movement of oil allows the silica to stick to the ferrous material and thereby stick to the magnet
These samples were taken from big arse industrial gearbox’s
Good advice. I have installed a by-pass filter system on my 7.3 PSD which is supposed to filter down to 2-3 microns. It also has a magnetic drain plug, but will change it to the Dimple.
Yes Stephen, I have witnessed this sludgy matter accumulated on the drain plugs, along with the ferrous debris. It has to make a difference. The magnets typically lower ISO Particle counts by a half to one code.
I think some of those metals came from filter itself, when your cutting it to open there might be fragments that went on magnetic side
Buy a filter cutter from online filter mag. Or Summit also carries them. Then no extra residue is created while cutting the filter.
its not about filter. it works even the filter bypass valve opens. thats how its useful. great video
Seems like a good trick towards keeping the filter clean for longer, and thereby securing a better flow! Nice video.
The metal particles from the filter are usually less than the 15 or so micron paper rating, so they typically flow thru and recirculate.
You don't want to keep the filter clean, you want to keep the engine/oil clean.
adding magnets is a very smart idea as it is extra level of filtration
Alright! FINE! I'll put magnets on my oil filter...
There are anti wear and anti pressure additives that have magnetic properties to them. Always wondered how much of these additives are being removed ?
Your voice is very soothing, you sound like you should do voice over for animal videos
We have "can openers" for oil filters here in the States. It's common practice in motorsports to occasionally check your filter.
Brian Borell
Basically they look like a huge pipe cutter for copper pipe, works great.
If you guys have wix filters I'd go with those. Dunno if I'd call that much metal normal you should try sending your oil in for analysis. You can also buy magnetic oil drain plugs as well
It hit me after the video, that a fair bit of those metal particles look a lot like the metal that the filter is made out of. Since I beat it apart with a hammer and screwdriver, most likely some chunks came off in the process.
FFcossag has
Any aircraft mechanic would cut every filter with a tool like a pipe cutter around the fitting hole.
Bro what did you use to cut that open a nail clipper?
The particles that wear out your engine are too small for your filter to catch. That and you get the most of them at cold start. The magnets will catch Ferris metal particles but not other metals and carbon.
The oil itself still turns black, doesn't it... so clearly then it isn't pulling "everything" out of suspension. What is it making the oil black? Rubber, like from seals and gaskets... or burnt gas? or tiny pieces of metal, like dust?
That's diesel for you.
Most transmissions used to have magnets built into the pan. I don't know if the newer ones still do
The 4R70W transmission in the famous 95 MERC has a ceramic magnet in the transmission pan -- it gets cleaned when the Trans Filter gets replaced at 30,000 mile intervals.
Looks like the engine just wearing down as it ages.
Next to prolonged idling, the *cold start* of any engine is where 98% of the wear takes place as the engine has not yet expanded to it's operating temperature. Fleet operators now instruct driver to shut off the engine when making deliveries rather than allow the engine to idle. It is about wear patterns and oil consumption. Reasoning that most of the pattern is created within an RPM range, low idle RPM the piston /cylinder match is not so good as most of the time the engine is moving the vehicle down the road at speed. But yes, regardless, change that filter and oil
WOW , MADE IN FINLAND...
PERKELE
This is bloody brilliant I'd say.
I use “filtermags” in my vehicles
Since doing so, I have no debri on my magnetic drain plugs
Highly recommend
It s good but very expensive do you know a good alternative brand with good price ?
@@faisalalmalki7853 There is no alternative, at ANY price, that can compare with the FILTERMAG # SS365PR's Magnetic power, surface area, and heat stabilization.
The FILTERMAG lasts forever, so the initial cost is meager.
They work for ferris alloys in the oil but the magnet has to be strong enough to saturate the metal shell, so there is a strong enough magnetic field inside.
To clarify: Magnets on the DOME END of the filter really don't do
anything that would actually show up in an oil analysis test. Why? the
filter is full of oil under pressure for sure, but the flow of oil is
greatest at the open end of the filter, that is, the oil takes the
shortest path thru the filter and if you have magnets located there,
they will catch visible amounts of wear metals, ferrous type, while all
other wear metals will drop as a result! The oil does not travel all the
way to the end of the filter media before passing thru, so
long/oversize filters does not improve anything as you might think.
Long narrow bar magnets along the sides of the spin-on filter close to
the mounting threads does work great though!
I use filtermags
I use to have a tad of debri on the end of my magnetic drain plug
But, no more
I prefer a magnet on the oil plug since then you can inspect it and see if you have an unusual amount of metal accumulated on it. I't of course from a flow perspective not ideal but it's better than nothing.
Interesting. However, these filters receive oil on the outside of the filter medium, filter it into the center of the medium, and thence back into the engine. So you caught metal that might have been filtered out of the oil, had you not stopped it.
It works, it won't harm your car.
Search for aircraft tools, small aircraft engines have filters similar to cars and it is normal to cut them open to check for metal in the filter.
are you sure the metal bits weren't shaving from your cut of the housing?
Yep, magnets on the filter and one JB welded to the inside of the drain plug bolt.
I've put one on the bottom of the filter, and I'm going to put another on the head of the drain plug. Can't hurt I reckon.
I know that parts houses in the U.S. sell filter cutters (kind of like a can opener on steroids).
YEP. I ordered me a new Oil Filter Cutter just today -- Ebay -- $48.00
Gonna find out if the FILTERMAG Magnet Kit does what it claims.
@@SlikLizrd I paid less the TEN dollars for one....
@@fooman2108 Show off !!
@@SlikLizrd LOL, or just go into a friendly garage and see if they will cut open one for you! My grandfather had one of those magnetic deals that he put on the bottom of the sump of the oil pans of his cars for years. I do know that most of my recent cars have magnetic drain plugs on them.
@@fooman2108 I want my own tool -- 'cuz I do my own work. I spent the big bux to get a killer set of magnets, and I want to see for MYSELF just how well they work to take metal out of my engine oil. These are REALLY powerful magnets -- not a toy or plaything.
I have owned a bunch of foreign cars -- many of them had magnetic drain plugs in the engines, transmissions, and differentials.
Können Sie empfehlen Medikamente für Furz und Durchfall? Ich Furz wie eine große Trompete. Vollen Klang, wie ein Kaiser Furz. Mein Durchfall fließt wie ein Fluss.
I have been using microwave oven magnet s for 30 plus years.They do work.Put one on my transmission pan too.
John Moyer Quite a few transmissions have magnets inside on the pan already. I cleaned a 1982 D150 pan that had loads of metal on its magnet from the factory. My trans in my 05 silverado is going a little on 2nd to 3rd but the magnet wont work all too terribly well but it has them already inside from the factory.
computer magnets work way better than the tranny pan magnets. definitely see a difference when dropping the pan and swapping the gasket and filter.
Superman i did what you told me to do! And your advice destroyed my car transmission will you please pay for damaged for wrong advise!!!!!!! Jerk
Does the magnet effects on the oil flow pressure negatively when oil passes through oil filter ?
No
If you think it well there's no much sense putting the magnet there because those particles would mostly get trapped by the filter if they weren't stopped by the magnet, a good place for those magnets would be the oil pan, that way you avoid the metal particles from getting into the oil pump at first
Yes, a good choice to catch the ferrous wear, but difficult to clean the collected particles from the pan. It is a common practice on transmissions and hydrostatic drives. The pans are easily removed to service the filter and oil, so the pan cover is generally cleaned at this time, not so convenient to clean the engine oil pan. Alnico magnets have the highest heat rating, meaning they hold there strength as temperature rises. Medium costs as well.
David Whittaker the most logic place for the magnet would be the screw used for draining the engine oil, that would be very easy to check while changing the oil and I'm sure it would catch most of the particles on most of the cars (except some weird oil pans out there that would be less effective due to having a false bottom)
Anyways if it was my car I would prefer to have to remove the oil pan rather than knowing all those particles are going into the pump
How would you get the metal out of the pan? Take the magnet off at each oil change?
Ardent Fan any strong magnet on the pan is going to magnetize the pan area around where the magnet was attached. Even when you remove the magnet, the pan will still be magnetized and those particles will not flow out when you drain the oil. Just change your oil and filter on schedule, and you can put 1,000,000 kms on a good engine! There are lots of stories of people putting that kind of mileage on a vehicle by changing the oil/filter on time and doing engine tune-ups. If you maintain your vehicle well you don’t need magnets on your oil filter or your oil pan.
@@jonathanalcocer3872 In the case of a false bottom oil pan, wouldn't the particles be equally attracted, simply because the oil is circulating?
This is a great way and place to extract steel from your oil. The filter would normally just hold it. Call me when you find an aluminum magnet.
Made In Finland Great Quality Filter!! my 5 dollar china copycat filter would have broken into 20 pieces on the first hack attempt and revealed a 4000 page yellow pages element in it!
312,000 miles on my Chrysler 300 hemi..... Puralator filter, Kendall 0-20 full synthetic oil, still running today. BAM! NO MAGNETS
720,000 miles on my 1989 Ford truck with the IHI 7.3 Diesel engine (notorious for dirty oil), BAM! WITH MAGNETS. I change the oil every 12,000 miles, and the filter every 24,000 miles. Been using Magnesaver brand magnets, since 1993. Same routine on my G20 Chevy Van with the 350 cu. in V8, it had 424,000 mile on the odometer,but I sold it, since things like door hinges were wearing out, starting to nickle and dime me too death, At the end of the of the 3rd transmission, it was time for it to go, but the engine was still running strong - same magnets.
Next time, mate, chuck that in a metal lathe and have a clean shaven cut in moments, instead of the Neandrathal Hatchet method
Put in a big enough donation, and I promise I'll buy a lathe. ;)
FFcossag lol aren't you a clever one..
the Neanderthal method is more manly.
As if the average guy has a lathe! Better yet, have you guys ever heard of filter cutters ? They take about one minute to cut a filter open, and a clean cut. No shavings.
Or even a Sawsall!
Many years ago I designed a reusable magnet filter housing and worked pretty good but because of loopholes in the patents rights I stopped. Magnets do work and catch the very fine particles that otherwise would go through the filter medium. Most oil filters ain't good at even cleaning oil. Yes even brand names I won't mention for fear of being dragged to court. I've found at least one make that does clean properly and that make is Purflux.
Although aluminium, alloys and copper won't be attracted to magnets but will reduce clogging so it can filter longer.
Not many know that some filters have a bypass valve that incase your filter is blocked will bypass the filter and sends that dirty oil directly to your bearings. 😱
Bet most didn't know that.
Now im having a guilt trip for changing my oil a little late a few months ago
coolsupermanfly depends how much milage you've done over the service interval.
Also depends on how hard the oil has worked.
100% Bullshit mate. You're just here to advertise the brand you stock in your shop. Worried about getting sued... you muppet
Not only that the magnet can collect metal, I think you have engine wear too!
Problem is on somee newer cars like toyota corollas using paper canister filters the outside housing is plastic so magnets wont stick to the plastic makes me wonder if car manufactures are doing this now so your unable to use the magnets therefore engine gets messed up in time so the dealerships are hoping the people come back to them to get new engine installed for big dollars$$$
How many km on the engine? I would guess that the metal is from the cylinder sleeves.
Perhaps 180 000 km or so at the time of the video.
I use magnets, however I have to ask how much metal contamination happened from your side cutters/opening the can..?
NONE. The metal at the bottom of the filter case was trapped by the magnets -- the magnets held it there.
When it came time to do the oil change in my last Corolla I found a new-old Fram filter under the seat from the last owner-- with a date from around 2011. it sat under that seat for three years... still put it in, still worked A-OK. I as well as a few others are probably the same as you, not a fan of Fram filters. the mechanic shop we take the van to for big repairs usually does our oil changes for us now since it's just a $15 job. they get them from the mom&pop auto parts place 5 buildings down, and I don't know what the hell brand they are since they're unbranded, but I'd trust my life to them more than I would a "Flimsy Fram" any day. I've seen plenty of filter gore from them.
Will try the neodymium on the filter trick though, that seems like a helluva good idea now.
That's some Dark/Black Oil! Is that from a diesel or gas engine? I do believe in Magnets in the oil pan, never tried them on the filter. Thanks for the Video
I buy the drain plug with magnet on. it never thought about putting one on the actual oil filter. But ain't the filter supposed to filter that shit out?
The World's BEST K&N Oil Filter a few $$ more, but much much less than buying an engine.
3:49 Aluminum is not magnetic
It is true that aluminum is not magnetic, but metals like copper, brass, alluminum and others become temporarily magnetic due to magnetic fields induced by electric induction when cundictive materials are in motion within a magnetic field. It is called paramagnetism. Also, non-magnetic material becomes mechanically trapped by the iron and steel particles, and then move together and get stuck on the magetic area. That is probaby why you see aluminum pieces in the video.
Aluminum, boron, copper, lead, magnesium, phosphorus, silicon, and sodium are all shown to be reduced as contaminants in standard engine oil analysis when neodymium oil filter magnets are used. However, most to those materials are not extremely abrasive, except to the silicon, which is the most abrasive material in the dirty oil.
There is not oil for 12.000Km.. 5.000 Km is the maximum life..Less in large town...! The magnets is good idea anyway..Thank you..AND love from Athens..
What car is this mate and what type of engine. Interesting video by the way - make me think of the Porsche V8 engine and maybe I need a magnet.
It's an old Nissan diesel van.
who said that the filter wouldn't filter al of that ?
after all if they bigger that the filter capabilities they would be collected .
Magnets definitely help
What happen if i put bigger magnet?
Why don't you just get a magnetic drain plug when you pull it out you can look at it
Awesome video very helpful thank you
Wouldnt the filter itself prevent any metal shavings from getting back into the engine?
Of course, but what the filter cannot do, is remove the really fine material, that passes through the filter pores, which is responsible for about 70 to 90% of wearg in bearing areas, piston rings and cylinder walls, and valce stems and guides, according to research by the Society of Autommotive Engineers.
magnets on oil filter & on the oil pan they work
I love that you use hard drive magnets like me. The second you held up those snips I knew they wouldn't work.
Best fridge magnets ever
I have a bunch of those hard drive magnets, this video gave me an idea to use mine all over the oil pan and trans oil pan too
Heyy at 3:22 u are moving the magnets it seems that a light is shining true the metal is that because the metal.is realy thin orr just an elusion I would like.to hear from.u greetings from.holland
Rapid oil filter changes . Like 3 per mounth
What car did that come off of?
An old diesel van.
Change your oil regularly with quality oil and a quality oil filter with synthetic media and you wont have to worry about magnets or anything else.Why try to reinvent the wheel!
You probably got a lot of debris from tearing that filter apart as well
Checking for metal particles in hydraulic system oil sumps is a common and quick way of checking for trouble. Really surprising to me to see that much of it in an engine.
I'm thinking most of those big chunks probably came from my violent filter-opening procedure.
That makes a lot of sense.
Ehh. You can see shavings fairly commonly if your engine has an oil drain magnet.
I’ve found curles of metal in the oil filter in my old 3litre diesel Mercedes lol, it still runs and is tuned to 300hp
Does the Oil flow through the Filter Element before or after being passed by the Magnet? If the Magnet is capturing these particles after it has passed through the Filter Element (you have a Worthless Filter) if the Magnet is capturing the particles before it is run through the Element ... big whoop, they would be captured by the Filter Element (if it is a good one).
Can't hurt to put the magnets there but I see no real benefit.
What parts of the engine bear magnetic metals?
Cylinder Bores, Piston Rings, Valves, Camshafts, Connecting Rods, etc.
Only iron/steel particulates would be caught by the magnets. Aluminum and main bearing material will not be caught.
On my newly built engines I put magnets inside the engine at the oil pickup for the first 1000km.
Upon the 1000km service I remove the sump and clean it all out and remove the magnets and the contaminants.
No point really on putting magnets on the oil filter as the oil from the sump goes through the oil pump before it gets filtered.
Replace engine oil on a more regular basis than what is stated(manufacturers state long intervals so that they save money while the car is still under plan by them)
go around the filt can with a bench grinder making a partial cut thru and then it cuts the rest of the was with your method under no stress at all... to run the test true to form the magnet needs to be on the other side of the paper element to catch particles that have gotten thru
if carbon is paramagnetic as graphite is, then you could have trapped just the black soot. Dunno.
That is really cool
That's metal from the shavings caused by the cutting of the filter.
bando v'real you wouldn't get fragments that fine and that uniform from snipping open the top.
Sawing it might have done but he didn't do that.
So NO
Apparently you missed the part where he showed the hammer and screwdriver that he used to open it.. No "cutting" involved...
TheRaellz best comment today I’ve seen
Could be, detractors. At least some. But plenty is from the erl
Quote from FFcossag reply to another comment 4 months ago, "It hit me after the video, that a fair bit of those metal particles look a lot like the metal that the filter is made out of. Since I beat it apart with a hammer and screwdriver, most likely some chunks came off in the process."
Could have cut it open with a pair of tin snips would have saved the mess
Bad news. IF you have metal getting in the filter YOU won't have a motor very long.
Back on the 90s Avweb did a test on using 4 small Neodymium magnets 1 “ long x 3/16 arranged equally spaced around the canister. You oriented the poles each opposite to the neighbor . They said it really did gather metallic debris quite well. I had a set and must say they weren’t even close to those old hard drive magnets in power.. I’ve used both just stick them on there and they will stay put.
The filters on this guy's oil housing came from damaged computer hard drives.
I honestly have a hard time working my microwave too. To many buttons.
i usually drop a magnet or two into the oil fill hole for better scavenging of the metal shavings. I also drop 1 into my radiator every time i do a coolant flush just in case the shavings get passed the head gasket. oh and almost forgot, i put a bottle of MMO into my gas tank every time i fill up.
ihave35cents the oil is cleaner then when I initially pour it in. Also I have some knocking noise coming from the valve covers. That's how I know its working
¡I'm I want to fix my hesitation problem at idle on my 99 GMC Chevy truck with a 6.0 diesel engine what are we call it not that has it that the hesitation up rough idle I want to fix the rough idle situation with my 6.0 liter Chevy 1999 gas engine