Genuinely helpful video, Ive got a G6 with a steering pump that is making a great amount of noise, the fluid appears BLACK and i am wondering if your car had similar symptoms before the change? no failure in power steering but at slow speeds the pump was making some serious noise.
Update, the pump is making a whirring noise that gets louder with steering, fluid came out pink, put clear fluid in. The whirring did not stop, sounds more like bearing failure on the pump. Just got to wait for a failure to find out I guess!
No serious noise, just some groaning only heard at low speed. I did not notice much difference in noise with the new fluid, still a quiet groan, but I’d imagine it will help slow down pump wear a lot. I asked my mechanic friend about it and he said GM power steering pumps are known to make noise as the age, but can work that way quite a while before they fail. Fluid is cheap, I’d give it a try, we are lucky it is so easy to get to on this car. Chris Fix recommended some additive to reduce noise in his Power Steering video, can’t remember what but might be worth a try.
Harbor Freight has the vacuum pump and the long reach pliers. Larger fluid bottle from Amazon. Indeed a nice pump location, vs down below as some are. Thanks for the comment!
Oh boy, I came here as a curiosity detail, I disconnected my power steering pump and drained most of the fluid; did this as I had to fix a dent in the pulley then install the pump in the engine which is out of the bay but coming in soon; seems I screwed up and may now have air in the system; power steering fluid will be new after install, I do have a Kweiny Pneumatic Fluid Extractor that has a fitting for a compressor; bough it to replace power steering and brake fluids as I am too doing the clutch master and slave cylinders; but how do I now fix my stupidity due to lack of know how?
Hi and thanks for another comment. Given your knowledge of cars; having done engine rebuilds yourself, I would not call yourself stupid! The vacuum suction method I show should work just fine to remove any air in the lines. I messed up too during the flush, allowing the reservoir to run dry and suck air into the lines, but after running more fluid through the air bubbles came out. It was my first power steering flush and seemed easier to me than flushing brakes. When I do a brake fluid flush I like to use pressure at the reservoir, rather than vacuum at the bleeder screw, since it gives better results. With vacuum brake bleeding you can have air go past the threads of the bleeder screw and make it hard to tell if all the air is out. Pressure brake bleeding avoids this. But with power steering you can hook right up to the line, no screw and no threads to leak air past. Although I just now got to thinking, you could also pressure bleed power steering, if you hook your pressure pump to the reservoir return port and a collection bottle on the return line (same place as with vacuum). But if you do not want to use a hand pump you should not have trouble either, once everything is hooked back up, lifting the car up in the air. Fill the reservoir with PS fluid, and with the engine off turn the steering wheel back and forth. Keep adding fluid as it goes down until it stops going down. Doing this you would be manually pushing out any air. With the engine off the PS pump does not spin, so it can’t be damaged by air in the system. This was the method I had seen others use before I made my video using the vacuum pump. Hopefully that helps with your question? Let me know how it goes.
@@BrenoAutoGarage Will let you know once doing it, for now the PS lines are open, obviously there will be air in the system, PS pump is assembled in the soon to be drop in engine as it is easier to connect the line down from the steering rack than installing the pump connected once engine is in; I guess I will have to hook the pressure vacuum system and add fluid like you showed until fluid comes air free and good color to flush the system; same will do with the brakes; which I am replacing the clutch master and slave cylinders, possible tomorrow; no right or wrong way to do it so I will just disconnect the hose from the clutch master cylinder from the brake master cylinder and plug it there, install the new parts, fill them with new brake fluid then add at master brake reservoir then do the pressure vacuum recovery and recycling until air is out and clear fluid circulates; unfortunately there is no video out there to show this whole process; I would like making one but I am not expert on it either and will be shooting in the dark with my approach so to speak. These little extra jobs are part of the big overhaul to save that Corolla from "getting rid of it" so my daughter will drive it for college soon and hopefully until she can afford to buy a car of her own; wife wanted to sell it, it is titled to her but then we realized sell it then what? can not afford a new payment with the extra that would go into insurance increase and we have already expended close to 5k on parts and tools; the equivalent of buying another used car which we do not know the engine; this way at least we know what have been done and how every part used suppose to work; I took my time with the re-building part and cleaning and detailing every single part I came across with and surely hope it will start and run once done; we are getting close to that moment as all this is part of getting it ready; if it runs, success and if it does not then we will see what options are left.
I agree, better to keep a car running that you know and trust than risk ending up with someone else’s junk or worse $$$$/month payments for years and years on a newer car. If you are in America (and probably many other countries around the world) even old used cars are expensive now. I got my Corolla roughly two years ago, and now they sell for 2-3x as much. Like the old saying “better the devil you know than the devil you don’t know”. I believe you will do well with the power steering and brake fluid.
Genuinely helpful video, Ive got a G6 with a steering pump that is making a great amount of noise, the fluid appears BLACK and i am wondering if your car had similar symptoms before the change? no failure in power steering but at slow speeds the pump was making some serious noise.
Update, the pump is making a whirring noise that gets louder with steering, fluid came out pink, put clear fluid in. The whirring did not stop, sounds more like bearing failure on the pump. Just got to wait for a failure to find out I guess!
No serious noise, just some groaning only heard at low speed. I did not notice much difference in noise with the new fluid, still a quiet groan, but I’d imagine it will help slow down pump wear a lot.
I asked my mechanic friend about it and he said GM power steering pumps are known to make noise as the age, but can work that way quite a while before they fail.
Fluid is cheap, I’d give it a try, we are lucky it is so easy to get to on this car. Chris Fix recommended some additive to reduce noise in his Power Steering video, can’t remember what but might be worth a try.
Interesting it easy! Our car had G6 GT Sedan 2008 LZ4. Soon replaced change power steering fluid. Where you get from kits?
Harbor Freight has the vacuum pump and the long reach pliers. Larger fluid bottle from Amazon.
Indeed a nice pump location, vs down below as some are. Thanks for the comment!
Oh boy, I came here as a curiosity detail, I disconnected my power steering pump and drained most of the fluid; did this as I had to fix a dent in the pulley then install the pump in the engine which is out of the bay but coming in soon; seems I screwed up and may now have air in the system; power steering fluid will be new after install, I do have a Kweiny Pneumatic Fluid Extractor that has a fitting for a compressor; bough it to replace power steering and brake fluids as I am too doing the clutch master and slave cylinders; but how do I now fix my stupidity due to lack of know how?
Hi and thanks for another comment. Given your knowledge of cars; having done engine rebuilds yourself, I would not call yourself stupid! The vacuum suction method I show should work just fine to remove any air in the lines. I messed up too during the flush, allowing the reservoir to run dry and suck air into the lines, but after running more fluid through the air bubbles came out.
It was my first power steering flush and seemed easier to me than flushing brakes. When I do a brake fluid flush I like to use pressure at the reservoir, rather than vacuum at the bleeder screw, since it gives better results. With vacuum brake bleeding you can have air go past the threads of the bleeder screw and make it hard to tell if all the air is out. Pressure brake bleeding avoids this. But with power steering you can hook right up to the line, no screw and no threads to leak air past.
Although I just now got to thinking, you could also pressure bleed power steering, if you hook your pressure pump to the reservoir return port and a collection bottle on the return line (same place as with vacuum).
But if you do not want to use a hand pump you should not have trouble either, once everything is hooked back up, lifting the car up in the air. Fill the reservoir with PS fluid, and with the engine off turn the steering wheel back and forth. Keep adding fluid as it goes down until it stops going down. Doing this you would be manually pushing out any air. With the engine off the PS pump does not spin, so it can’t be damaged by air in the system. This was the method I had seen others use before I made my video using the vacuum pump.
Hopefully that helps with your question? Let me know how it goes.
@@BrenoAutoGarage Will let you know once doing it, for now the PS lines are open, obviously there will be air in the system, PS pump is assembled in the soon to be drop in engine as it is easier to connect the line down from the steering rack than installing the pump connected once engine is in; I guess I will have to hook the pressure vacuum system and add fluid like you showed until fluid comes air free and good color to flush the system; same will do with the brakes; which I am replacing the clutch master and slave cylinders, possible tomorrow; no right or wrong way to do it so I will just disconnect the hose from the clutch master cylinder from the brake master cylinder and plug it there, install the new parts, fill them with new brake fluid then add at master brake reservoir then do the pressure vacuum recovery and recycling until air is out and clear fluid circulates; unfortunately there is no video out there to show this whole process; I would like making one but I am not expert on it either and will be shooting in the dark with my approach so to speak. These little extra jobs are part of the big overhaul to save that Corolla from "getting rid of it" so my daughter will drive it for college soon and hopefully until she can afford to buy a car of her own; wife wanted to sell it, it is titled to her but then we realized sell it then what? can not afford a new payment with the extra that would go into insurance increase and we have already expended close to 5k on parts and tools; the equivalent of buying another used car which we do not know the engine; this way at least we know what have been done and how every part used suppose to work; I took my time with the re-building part and cleaning and detailing every single part I came across with and surely hope it will start and run once done; we are getting close to that moment as all this is part of getting it ready; if it runs, success and if it does not then we will see what options are left.
I agree, better to keep a car running that you know and trust than risk ending up with someone else’s junk or worse $$$$/month payments for years and years on a newer car. If you are in America (and probably many other countries around the world) even old used cars are expensive now. I got my Corolla roughly two years ago, and now they sell for 2-3x as much. Like the old saying “better the devil you know than the devil you don’t know”. I believe you will do well with the power steering and brake fluid.
Need help fix my power steering
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