I have seen many people on RUclips use your method, a turkey baster, lift the car up and connect the return line with a plastic hose, and more. But the method that worked the best for me was using a vacuum pump. I know it can cost between $30-$60 but it really does pay for itself because one is able to easily change all fluids with ease and takes all if not majority of the old fluid out.
I followed procedure today on my 97 TJ. I went through two bottles and my fluid was better but still has a ways to go. Will be going and getting some more fluid and this off. I have only had the TJ since August and not sure if this has ever been done. It only has 106,980 miles on it and I totally enjoy it. I also changed the manual transmission fluid today as well. It needed it to so I'm glad I did that. Thank you for the video.
I was wondering if after you change the fluid that you drop a magnet into the power steering reservoir Since I have a 2011 wrangler and the reservoir has a screen inside .The magnet would set on top of the screen so it would not interfere with the flow and it would be easy to remove the reservoir tank and remove the magnet for cleaning The magnet would collect any metal in the fluid act like a power steering filter like a magnefine filter or cardone filter would only cheaper and without cutting any hoses
I do this with brake fluid and engine coolant too. However after u drain the resovoiuir and refill it the first time. Don’t keep repeating the process immediately. The new fluid needs to mix and dilute with the left over fluids in system. If you do a second removal you’re just sucking up the new fluid u put in. Drive for a few hundred miles let it all mix then repeat. Once a week is fine
just so people are clear.. Brake lines MUST be flushed out . Yes you can empty the brake fluid tank and then fill with new brake fluid But then you MUST bleed the brakes. This is because brake fluid does not recirculate back to the fluid tank. The way power steering does.
@@mrgadget5845 he is more right than wrong. SOME fluid does go back up into your reservoir but I'd be pretty willing to bet the fluid from your rear wheel cylinders or calipers will never make it back up to the reservoir, ever.
@@jdtisme9100 again this is incorrect, over a long enough time line all fluid will be cycled through at some point, there is no friction flow stoppage in this design there are no separate reservoirs separating the rear wheels from the front or master or in the caliper line
Great video! Question. If I'm uncertain about the type of power steering fluid previously used in my car, will following the instructions from the video be sufficient? I've never flushed or added power steering fluid to this car before, but I've purchased a new bottle and want to ensure that flushing the system will adequately prepare it for the new fluid, even if it differs from what was originally used. I noticed at 2:21 you said it wouldn't drain the whole system, but will just empty out the reservoir, so I want to make sure I'm not going to screw my car up. TIA.
At today's oil prices, would really love to know where you get such cheap power steering fluid. Manufacturer specified cost almost $20 per litre and more than one was required. Shop price wasn't that bad considered a vac pump would also be required. Amazing, the vac pump complete cost less than 1 litre of power steering fluid.
Quick check with a clear plastic turkey baster.you can see how dark the fluid is. If it’s dark change it. Drain the pump with the baster. Refill and take the car for a short drive around the block. Keep repeating till somewhat clean.
Awesome explanation Sir !, yep it make alot of sense doing this way cause der basically all the sh@# is coming back to the the smail tank and really there is no need to take low pressure hose off.....
$95.00 is a fair deal. But you option is just fine also. By the time you get it all together and so on. It costs you about the same...in your time....etc. Great video. Well done.
Costs about the same? A quart of power steering fluid is $3.48 at Walmart and at the most it takes two quarts to do this so how does $8 = $95.................
All depends.. one of our very first videos is on how to do this type of process for a transmission.. remove a little fluid, add new, circulate, repeat..This isn't a terrible option to keep your trans fluid clean without paying the $200. ruclips.net/video/FupICBzG2YY/видео.html The difference is this.. a power steering flush is $95 and a new power steering system is $200-$500 if it gets messed up. A trans flush is $200 but a new trans is $2000-$5000 if it gets messed up. It might be worth it to pay the $200 to protect such an expensive part. I like to use the "partial flush" method on my trans and every once in a while i pay for the full flush. Hope that helps...
That's not a true flush and change of fluid. It's just a refresh and better that nothing but not a true flush. Your leaving contaminants in the rack and pinion.
No rack and pinion on a solid front axle Jeep. Saginaw steering boxes on all Jeeps until 2002 and they are still used on the Wrangler. Also, I think I mentioned that this is more of a stop gap solution. That said, I do this on all my vehicles every 10k miles and have never had to do an "true" flush. Thanks for the feedback. i imagine if you have a newer or one with a more complicated steering system you might want to invest in proper flushes
Any good mechanic would never tell you to do a total flush of any system requiring fluids, exception oil, and maybe anitfreeze... .. As systems get older, sometimes its the particles that keep all the things in place... keep them in place... ATF, Manual trans, Power steering... Turkey baste all those things, but don't do a complete flush... Just what I've heard, and follow
I have seen many people on RUclips use your method, a turkey baster, lift the car up and connect the return line with a plastic hose, and more. But the method that worked the best for me was using a vacuum pump. I know it can cost between $30-$60 but it really does pay for itself because one is able to easily change all fluids with ease and takes all if not majority of the old fluid out.
The other day, I did this on 2010 Chevrolet Impala 9C1. Very practical and effective.
I followed procedure today on my 97 TJ. I went through two bottles and my fluid was better but still has a ways to go. Will be going and getting some more fluid and this off. I have only had the TJ since August and not sure if this has ever been done. It only has 106,980 miles on it and I totally enjoy it. I also changed the manual transmission fluid today as well. It needed it to so I'm glad I did that. Thank you for the video.
I just did this on my wifes 04 2wd. I need to do it again to get more of the old nasty fluid out.
As always man, great content!
I was wondering if after you change the fluid that you drop a magnet into the power steering reservoir Since I have a 2011 wrangler and the reservoir has a screen inside .The magnet would set on top of the screen so it would not interfere with the flow and it would be easy to remove the reservoir tank and remove the magnet for cleaning The magnet would collect any metal in the fluid act like a power steering filter like a magnefine filter or cardone filter would only cheaper and without cutting any hoses
I do this with brake fluid and engine coolant too. However after u drain the resovoiuir and refill it the first time. Don’t keep repeating the process immediately. The new fluid needs to mix and dilute with the left over fluids in system. If you do a second removal you’re just sucking up the new fluid u put in. Drive for a few hundred miles let it all mix then repeat. Once a week is fine
just so people are clear.. Brake lines MUST be flushed out . Yes you can empty the brake fluid tank and then fill with new brake fluid But then you MUST bleed the brakes. This is because brake fluid does not recirculate back to the fluid tank. The way power steering does.
@@timpoiu this is not true
@@mrgadget5845 he is more right than wrong. SOME fluid does go back up into your reservoir but I'd be pretty willing to bet the fluid from your rear wheel cylinders or calipers will never make it back up to the reservoir, ever.
@@jdtisme9100 again this is incorrect, over a long enough time line all fluid will be cycled through at some point, there is no friction flow stoppage in this design there are no separate reservoirs separating the rear wheels from the front or master or in the caliper line
Great video! Question. If I'm uncertain about the type of power steering fluid previously used in my car, will following the instructions from the video be sufficient? I've never flushed or added power steering fluid to this car before, but I've purchased a new bottle and want to ensure that flushing the system will adequately prepare it for the new fluid, even if it differs from what was originally used. I noticed at 2:21 you said it wouldn't drain the whole system, but will just empty out the reservoir, so I want to make sure I'm not going to screw my car up. TIA.
A 1$ turkey baster works also(takes longer)
That was awesome! Dealer charged me over $200.... guess who’s NOT paying that😏😎 thank you
At today's oil prices, would really love to know where you get such cheap power steering fluid. Manufacturer specified cost almost $20 per litre and more than one was required. Shop price wasn't that bad considered a vac pump would also be required. Amazing, the vac pump complete cost less than 1 litre of power steering fluid.
Is there any concern with air in the system as with brakes and coolant?
Quick check with a clear plastic turkey baster.you can see how dark the fluid is. If it’s dark change it. Drain the pump with the baster. Refill and take the car for a short drive around the block. Keep repeating till somewhat clean.
No. Jack up the axle and turning the wheels many times to push out the rest of the fluid is all you need to do
@@smokeymonjes8575 With the engine off.
Why would you take it for a drive..just turn the steering wheel lock to lock 🔐
@@ibberman engine on is fine..if its a new pump that's dry best with engine off or you could damage seals
@@mrmotorvator5151 👍
Awesome! Going to try this out on my WJ later
Thank you so much for this information, appreciate it😉
What technique and products do you use to clean out that pump after you're done so that it's clean and ready for the next time?
Awesome explanation Sir !, yep it make alot of sense doing this way cause der basically all the sh@# is coming back to the the smail tank and really there is no need to take low pressure hose off.....
$95.00 is a fair deal.
But you option is just fine also.
By the time you get it all together and so on.
It costs you about the same...in your time....etc.
Great video.
Well done.
Costs about the same? A quart of power steering fluid is $3.48 at Walmart and at the most it takes two quarts to do this so how does $8 = $95.................
If it is a 2008 Mazda wer is the resivore
Just did this today 👍🏻
where to get the pump like that?
Thank You so much.
What about a 200 dollar transmission flush?
All depends.. one of our very first videos is on how to do this type of process for a transmission.. remove a little fluid, add new, circulate, repeat..This isn't a terrible option to keep your trans fluid clean without paying the $200. ruclips.net/video/FupICBzG2YY/видео.html
The difference is this.. a power steering flush is $95 and a new power steering system is $200-$500 if it gets messed up. A trans flush is $200 but a new trans is $2000-$5000 if it gets messed up. It might be worth it to pay the $200 to protect such an expensive part. I like to use the "partial flush" method on my trans and every once in a while i pay for the full flush. Hope that helps...
200 is a fair price, but you probably dont need the service anyway. watch D and E video on trans flush
Much appreciated!
Great stuff mate
Our psf is red in u.k
Thanks
Mine keeps foaming up :(
Power steering pump has been full but no power steering I'm wondering is it a clog in the reservoir or hose the fluid is real dirty
Thank you
Wow, $199 on Koons Tysons thanks man.
I wouldn't say this is cheap but better than 95 bucks
Or instead of that pump,you could buy a turkey baster for a dollar or so....it sucks,literally!!
LOL.. good call
Why spend the dollar. I used the pump from the shampoo bottle. Works great. I know what your thinking. What a cheap b---d
Sorry, this is the wrong way of replacing whole power steering system fluid.
Lol, Scotty Kilmer would disagree. Scotty says, “you must work at a dealership “. Lmao
The solution to pollution is dilution
That's not a true flush and change of fluid. It's just a refresh and better that nothing but not a true flush. Your leaving contaminants in the rack and pinion.
No rack and pinion on a solid front axle Jeep. Saginaw steering boxes on all Jeeps until 2002 and they are still used on the Wrangler. Also, I think I mentioned that this is more of a stop gap solution. That said, I do this on all my vehicles every 10k miles and have never had to do an "true" flush. Thanks for the feedback. i imagine if you have a newer or one with a more complicated steering system you might want to invest in proper flushes
Any good mechanic would never tell you to do a total flush of any system requiring fluids, exception oil, and maybe anitfreeze...
.. As systems get older, sometimes its the particles that keep all the things in place... keep them in place... ATF, Manual trans, Power steering... Turkey baste all those things, but don't do a complete flush... Just what I've heard, and follow
@@swjohnny8020 I had exactly the same problem. I did the fluid change same way shown in this video. Problem disappeared.
They rip offs mechanics.
Mechanics rip off them
Very bad usefulness video
I hit that like button and subscribed cause I found this funny.