Not to mention finishing. A few coat of textured primer will hide every layer lines even without sanding. Then a matte paint and boom. You have like a powder coated item. Talking about functional print/parts though
No need for that even, if you can handle the flow rate set inner walls to be wider, no need for extra walls. 0.64 works nicely from most modern printers. 0.8 is possible with some print heads and cht nozzles. I also often do infill thicker lines as well outer walls and top layers are standard width for quality.
Nah, i'm printing giant parts to test before producing a mold for fiber-glassing. 0.8 is perfect for that regardless of printer speed, it only makes it better.
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Micro-Swiss has a complete replacement for K1 Max rhat supports. 04, .06, .08 and 1.0 nozzles
Not to mention finishing. A few coat of textured primer will hide every layer lines even without sanding. Then a matte paint and boom. You have like a powder coated item. Talking about functional print/parts though
Hi great content, I like your video. I used to think that we should heatup abit then pull filament from nozzle.
0.8 is copium, buy a faster printer and print with speed and low layer height and if you want the strength of 0.8 add a perimeter or two.
No need for that even, if you can handle the flow rate set inner walls to be wider, no need for extra walls.
0.64 works nicely from most modern printers. 0.8 is possible with some print heads and cht nozzles.
I also often do infill thicker lines as well outer walls and top layers are standard width for quality.
Nah, i'm printing giant parts to test before producing a mold for fiber-glassing. 0.8 is perfect for that regardless of printer speed, it only makes it better.