Love you work sir. I have a Mega and Mega S, and recently playing with .8 great vase mode prints but some real issues on others. But your profile has allowed me to focus on some settings I wasn't paying to much attention to.... thank you! Keep up the great work!
Please make a tutorial like this but for 0.2mm nozzles🔥this worked great for me with my 0.8 ,but now i need 0.2 and i need perfect settings because my 0.2s often get clogged.
i would make support layer distance from print to be equal or just slightly smaller than the layer height number. Witha a larger nozzle youre going to want to have it set larger so it doesnt weld. It may run the risk of peeling off prematurely but id rather have that than it weld on. Again, just my two cents but feel free to experiment to see what works best for you
@@yokaimagna probably. Just make sure to change the nozzle size in the slicer and set the layer height and extrusion width accordingly. You may also want to slow the speeds a tad but that can be played around with.
Hayo I saw you at RMRRF! The white hexagon lights definitely looked really appealing so I'll have to watch more of your vids for these tutorials! Thanks for appearing at a booth, it solidified that we want to make more cool prints with technology
I mean yes you do. But you’ll also have to run it slow enough so the layer can cook properly. Otherwise, you’ll have the issues seen in the video like I did on occasion
with exception to the vase, everything took about the same amount of time, or just a little bit slower. I did print most of these prints with more infill than probably needed and could've saved time depending on the print and how I sliced. You just need to make sure you print slow enough for the layer to adhere and cool properly.
hello B1G_Jano, I recently bought a used mega x (even if I have more modern printers like ender 3 s1 pro I think the mega series still has a lot to be appreciated) to complement the i3 mega and mega s, I took it with the intent to mount on it a 0.6 or 0.8 nozzle and your recent video is very interesting to me, would you mind sharing your profile when you have optimized it? I would be fine with it either for curation or even for any other slicing you use. Thanks for the great job
I have not. For one, the bed temp realistically onlu gets to 90c so ABS is going to be a stretch. Also, I dont have an enclosure for it and also dont have much need for either material at the moment.
You may need modified parts on the hotend assembly to account for changing the fan duct height to match the height of the heatsink as it’s a bit longer.
It looks like with a larger nozzle size, we will get slower prints, if we have to slow down on every speed and also with the thin layer as it was with the thinner nozzle.
bigger nozzles lay down more plastic. even at the same layer height a 0.6 lays down twice as much plastic as a 0.4mm and a 0.8 lays down 4 times as much. with a 0.8 even if you cut the print speed in half, you're still printing twice as fast, and that's before considering the higher layer heights you're capable of. I use a 0.6mm nozzle at 0.32mm layer height and can print a benchy with my regular quality profile in about 15 minutes. with a 0.4 it's more like 25
@@B1GJanoso after all that turns out for some odd reason my printer thinks the nozzle is way hotter than it actually is so thermistor problem by looks of it
Such an expensive looking mic but the audio track is still too quiet 😥You really need to WATCH the audio curve in the video editor. It should be as max as possible without touching the red zone. That'd be perfect.
Don´t change your print speeds, simply set the volumetric flow rate value, the printer will adjust automatically, it´s way easier than fumbling with speed again. You can also print 0.8mm lines with 0.4mm nozzle size with no issue, so you don´t really need a bigger nozzle unless you want to increase the layer heigths as well.
Hmmm nice vid great content but bigger nozzle size is not suppose to be use to gain time? If that so why print slower and add walls 2x0.6 walls = 3x0.4 walls, 0.3 layer height = 1.5x less print time than 0.2 but if you slow speeds in half their is no benefit what so ever. Maybe your printer just need help on coolling a second fan and a petg fan duck sould fix your speed issue. I know is a dick comment sry but a dick comment still a comment so it's still good for the mighty algo. For your question i print every functional part in FDM 0.6 any art part in resin
Why do you print so slow ? My artillery sidewinder can print with no quality loss up to 150mm/s with a Chinese copper core highflow 0,4 nozzle. With 0,8 I guess 130mms should work out too
What’s the best thing you’ve printed with a larger than 0.4mm nozzle? Let me know below!
Infinigrid, rc cars, all sorts of stuff. Arachne wall generation and adaptive layers with smoothing works absolute wonders
Twisting Pillars Vace....0.8 mm
Of course, it's good for all the technical parts.
these settings improved the quality and even the time on my ender 3 with basic shaped prints
Love you work sir. I have a Mega and Mega S, and recently playing with .8 great vase mode prints but some real issues on others. But your profile has allowed me to focus on some settings I wasn't paying to much attention to.... thank you! Keep up the great work!
I love the set up man! That nozzle lamp is too slick!
Thank you! It is amazing!
Helpful Video, Thanks a lot
Glad it was helpful!
Still planning to do PETG version for .8mm nozzle? This video was super helpful!
Thank you! And yes still planning a PETG video!
Very helpful. Thx
Appreciate the kind words! Glad it helped!
Great models, great video!!
thanks for watching!
I use 0.4mm nozzle and do 0.8mm infills. Its the best of both worlds.
How about PrusaSlicer ??
Please make a tutorial like this but for 0.2mm nozzles🔥this worked great for me with my 0.8 ,but now i need 0.2 and i need perfect settings because my 0.2s often get clogged.
Great video! I’m going to put a .8mm nozzle on my cr 10 max
Can you export and share your Cura settings as shown in this video?
How about supports?
Mine are welding on or too low…
i would make support layer distance from print to be equal or just slightly smaller than the layer height number. Witha a larger nozzle youre going to want to have it set larger so it doesnt weld. It may run the risk of peeling off prematurely but id rather have that than it weld on. Again, just my two cents but feel free to experiment to see what works best for you
Hi, could this configuration be used with a 1 mm nozzle?
@@yokaimagna probably. Just make sure to change the nozzle size in the slicer and set the layer height and extrusion width accordingly. You may also want to slow the speeds a tad but that can be played around with.
What about support settings?
Do you have larger nozzle profile for ABS ?
Hayo I saw you at RMRRF! The white hexagon lights definitely looked really appealing so I'll have to watch more of your vids for these tutorials! Thanks for appearing at a booth, it solidified that we want to make more cool prints with technology
ever tried printing with the nozzle you have on the wall back there?
That would be awesome. Unfortunately it’s merely decorative (and 3d printed)
I have a problem with removing support when I use 0.8 Nuzzel.
Do you know what value your support offset is set to in your slicer? It may be set too low
Is this a valid concern? Don't we want the previous layer hot enough to bond with the current layer?
I mean yes you do. But you’ll also have to run it slow enough so the layer can cook properly. Otherwise, you’ll have the issues seen in the video like I did on occasion
Big Jano, what about the travel section? Do we need it for no strings?
Yes. I would add your typical retraction settings. I didn’t change them in comparison to my smaller nozzle profile so that’s why it wasn’t mentioned.
What is your travel setting? My printer is the Kobra Max.
How did print time compare on those models compared to smaller nozzle and layer height?
with exception to the vase, everything took about the same amount of time, or just a little bit slower. I did print most of these prints with more infill than probably needed and could've saved time depending on the print and how I sliced. You just need to make sure you print slow enough for the layer to adhere and cool properly.
hello B1G_Jano, I recently bought a used mega x (even if I have more modern printers like ender 3 s1 pro I think the mega series still has a lot to be appreciated) to complement the i3 mega and mega s, I took it with the intent to mount on it a 0.6 or 0.8 nozzle and your recent video is very interesting to me, would you mind sharing your profile when you have optimized it? I would be fine with it either for curation or even for any other slicing you use.
Thanks for the great job
the profile is verbatim of what was discussed in the video. As long as you follow along, you'll have exactly what I use :)
i tried these settings, and my filament starting piling up , like coming out too much or something, looks like it was stuck in 1 spot, but wasnt,
You extrusion value in your slicer May be too high. Calibrate your e steps as a possible solution.
B1G_Jano where did you get your .8 nozzle from would love to try this out many thanks.
You can get them on Amazon, among other 3d printer accessory shops. Just search E3d v6 nozzle, 0.8mm
Have you done ABS or CF nylon with the AC MX?
I have not. For one, the bed temp realistically onlu gets to 90c so ABS is going to be a stretch. Also, I dont have an enclosure for it and also dont have much need for either material at the moment.
What is needed to fit the v6 hotend to a mega x?
You may need modified parts on the hotend assembly to account for changing the fan duct height to match the height of the heatsink as it’s a bit longer.
It looks like with a larger nozzle size, we will get slower prints, if we have to slow down on every speed and also with the thin layer as it was with the thinner nozzle.
bigger nozzles lay down more plastic. even at the same layer height a 0.6 lays down twice as much plastic as a 0.4mm and a 0.8 lays down 4 times as much. with a 0.8 even if you cut the print speed in half, you're still printing twice as fast, and that's before considering the higher layer heights you're capable of.
I use a 0.6mm nozzle at 0.32mm layer height and can print a benchy with my regular quality profile in about 15 minutes. with a 0.4 it's more like 25
I’m going to a .8 just to get rid of this jank filament I have keeps clogging my .4
what filament is it? Is it metallic or silk? Sometimes those clog easier than regular filament. Hope the 0.8 nozzle serves you well!
@@B1GJano pla lol
@@B1GJano I did pick it up well cheap so I see why now lol
@@B1GJanoso after all that turns out for some odd reason my printer thinks the nozzle is way hotter than it actually is so thermistor problem by looks of it
@@shokdj1 that could do it. Also double check that you don't accidentally have your nozzle temp set wrong in your slicer either.
PETG?
Will cover it soon
Such an expensive looking mic but the audio track is still too quiet 😥You really need to WATCH the audio curve in the video editor. It should be as max as possible without touching the red zone. That'd be perfect.
Goes to show you that expensive tools don’t replace skills.
@@MikevomMars I think your headphones are just garbage my guy
Don´t change your print speeds, simply set the volumetric flow rate value, the printer will adjust automatically, it´s way easier than fumbling with speed again.
You can also print 0.8mm lines with 0.4mm nozzle size with no issue, so you don´t really need a bigger nozzle unless you want to increase the layer heigths as well.
Hmmm nice vid great content but bigger nozzle size is not suppose to be use to gain time? If that so why print slower and add walls 2x0.6 walls = 3x0.4 walls, 0.3 layer height = 1.5x less print time than 0.2 but if you slow speeds in half their is no benefit what so ever. Maybe your printer just need help on coolling a second fan and a petg fan duck sould fix your speed issue. I know is a dick comment sry but a dick comment still a comment so it's still good for the mighty algo. For your question i print every functional part in FDM 0.6 any art part in resin
Why do you print so slow ? My artillery sidewinder can print with no quality loss up to 150mm/s with a Chinese copper core highflow 0,4 nozzle.
With 0,8 I guess 130mms should work out too