I believe your strength per time results would have been very different if you were using a higher flow hotend. With a volcano you can print with a 0.8mm nozzle at flowrates that you would not be able to match with the 0.4mm without significantly increasing your print speed which will bring it's own problems. I use a volcano with a 1mm nozzle for the majority of the items that I make because I'm trying to make strong and/or tall objects quickly. On one of my parts I was able to take a day off my print time while reducing print head speed (thereby reducing vibration and improving print quality) vs the one I made with a E3Dv6 clone. This is with the same wall thickness. I am tempted to try your extrusion width trick later to see what results I get, but I'm a little skeptical of getting similar times considering that I'm running 12x the flowrate that you did in the video.
dude you are the best 3d printing youtuber out there! im working in the field of printing, and i surely dont need no inspiration or curiosity boost, i already have that - and thats why i dont like watching youtube vids about printing, they lack pure information. Thats why you are the best of the best, you dont follow the route of those poularizers, and for the unique info you are giving i keep watching you and i shall watch every single one of your videos for the time i care about this technology.
Maybe you ought to write some sort of small guide book summarising all of the proven methods of tweaking a 3d printer to customise produced prints to ones needs.
Awesome breakdown, I've always wondered if the extrusion width cheat was as strong as just upping the nozzle! I'm a little addicted to big nozzles atm to print pots and such in vase mode, the time saving is really obscene.
Great work! "Emulating" larger nozzles works very well and is a big reason I prefer e3d style nozzles (as opposed to the pointy, mk8 style nozzles). Something that you may not have encountered in your testing due to 3mm^3/s cap on volumetric flow, I've found that going with extrusion width >150% nozzle diameter can result in extrusions "buckling" as they leave the nozzle, and coming out wiggly and unpredictably. I imagine this is likely due to the extra back-pressure that builds up when extruding large volumes through small nozzles at high speeds. Thus larger nozzles allow you to use larger extrusion widths at higher print speeds, which further increases strength per unit time.
I've been using a 0.6mm CHT nozzle for a few weeks now. For my parts (mostly functional, rather simple parts) this still is fine enough and I can just print them much faster at 0.3mm layer height, 0.8mm line width with just 2 perimeters at high speeds. Speed was the main reason for the upgrade (obviously, since it's a CHT).
Perhaps something to add that me and a few people talked about recently via the comments. Measuring the strength against speed of print on the same layer height and extrusion width. Essentially at what point in material extrusion rate and movement speed does it adversely impact strength ue to lower strength of layer bonds and of course the opposite at what point does performance peak with slow speed when giving material in the layers adjacent and below to heat optimally and become a single solid as opposed to two bonded solids. You somewhat covered it in concept. How with larger nozzles which means a longer melt zone etc etc you can get more material out at a consistent temperature that is melted correctly. But I and many other people would probably love to see the data. For example, at X material output per second the bonding was Y strong. At X*2 speed strength was Z percentage of Y's strength. So we can see how directly proportional the strength to material output capability is.
I'd imagine that would be very situational. I'd imagine a few variables would be your printers specific cooling setup, length of melt zone, the temperature you're printing at, or the temperature in the room just to name a few.
I'm just starting out 3D printing, so I've only used the 0.4 millimeter nozzle that the printer came with. However, I hope to experiment with smaller and larger nozzles for different prints in the future. Thanks for another one of the best 3D printing data analysis videos!
I have printed almost all of the lampshades in my house using a 0.6mm nozzle and clear PETG. The PETG that I have been using is a very cheap one and tends to bubble and spit. This, along with the coarse layer height, gives a really nice texture that looks almost woven. On some lampshade designs I have also used Cura' "fuzzy skin" option. Because some of the shades are quite big and because PETG is a bit flexible and I'm printing in vase mode the shades are quite flexible so have to be printed very slowly. Still, who cares if they look good.
Thanks for your videos. I USe 0.6mm nozzle on a X5S and I like it more and more. Initialty it was to print flex because I always got underextrusion with 0.4. Now I use the 0.6 also for the PLA, keeping layer height at 0.2mm. I like the quality of the print at least a much as with 0.4, even more. Next time, I may try with a Volcano at 0.6mm, it may well be a more versatile solution for the various filement types PLA, PETG, flex, and PTU
@@dude6935 I did once. Wasn't watertight. But I only did .5mm width. I think .6mm is the maximum before you start getting issues from the plastic curling around the nozzle tip. With the .8 nozzle I can do 1.0mm, which is very sturdy.
@@draakevil I commonly print water-tight vases with my 0.4mm nozzle. I've found using 4 bottom layers, 0.6mm extrusion width, and 1.1x extrusion multiplier all together will ensure that plastic really gets squished into every little hole to plug them all up. As for stock E3D nozzles (or clones made to E3D spec), the flat on the tip of the nozzle is the theoretical maximum extrusion width, and is 1.0mm for the 0.4mm nozzle, or 2.0mm for the 0.8mm nozzle. They are all documented here: e3d-online.dozuki.com/Document/SMgf2USbusbvTpKT/V6-NOZZLE-ALL-%28Edition-8.1%29.pdf. I generally only go to 80% of those values as a reasonable maximum.
@@seriousmaran9414 If it's vase mode, having a bigger nozzle will only speed up the print time of the bottom layers - the whole spiral part is one long line the same length regardless of extrusion width - have to go thicker layers to speed that part up, or just more mm/s raw speed, which the smaller nozzle will handle better.
Well, I drilled stock 0.4 nozzle with small sewing needle to get it bigger. Increased extruder esteps from factory set 93 to 98 in my old CR10 with less infill... What a time saver.... 😁
In Prusia slicer most % values are calculated based on layer hight, not nozzle width. Fell in to this trap too. Using 0.8 for all prints with 1mm extrusion width that ends up in 1.00-1.05 actual width. Makes disign simplier. And prints are actually reliable. (btw. Using abs)
Just checked Prusia slicer. If you put % values into extrusion width parameters, it actually calculates all parameters based of layer hight, and not the nozzle diameter. No wonder there is no actual difference in test results.
Great video as always love your content! One important remark: extrusion multiplier 200% is NOT the same as double nozzle diameter. The flow through a twice bigger nozzle is FOUR times bigger. That is why you have holes on the 200% print. It is two times under-extruded. Should be 400%.
I'm pretty sure he was talking abt extrusion width. In this case, the slicer should adapt to extrude 400% the material, and then doubling the layer height should double the volume once more. I might be wrong with my math however.
The main perk of a 0.8mm nozzle is the lower extrusion backpressure and the capsbility of larger layers. Its easier to print TPU for example and you dont need as strong of an extruder with a larger nozzle compared to printing the same settings with a smaller nozzle. What happens if you have a 1.75mm nozzle with 1.75 mm filament? Not a CHT, just a standard round bore nozzle?
Another great video! I've got a 0.6mm nozzle coming soon (I hope, longer shipping time directly from e3d than from aliexpress at the moment :/ ) and it feels like a 0.6mm nozzle would be a great standard nozzle where I can both decrease extrusion width for delicate things with thin walls, but go up to 0.9mm for optimal strength, which is where I'm guessing my current heating limitation for good flow and speed is.
The problem of using bigger extrusion widths may be bridges. As in the first layers there is no good support, or no support at all, for the nozzle to squish the plastic. The same for steep overhangs.
So the uptake in resin printers has me thinking: Dude! I'd like to, for science, challenge/request/suggest (whatever works!) you to see how strong a part can be made by printing (either method to be honest, UV it FDM) a single wall outline and then filling it with epoxy resin. The idea being that a complicated part can be printed and then have the strength of a single object, with epoxy being difficult at best to shape into complicated parts. Will post this comment on a couple of other channels if you can't be bothered, but it sounds to me like a great for science episode!
Just saw a similar idea at the Bosch industrial AM booth at the latest formnext where they print the walls with FDM and fill the void with injection molding material to achieve injection molding strength with lot size 1 design flexibility.
I always print with a 0.6mm nozzle with the main reason being my impatience. The details is very similar to 0.4 and the print time is massively reduced.
I never use .4mm anymore because the die swell adds a hundreds place decimal making it .48mm. Instead, I use .5mm nozzle because the die swell adds an even .1mm creating a realistic .6mm width. Much easier to consider when designing dimensionally accurate parts. The slight increase in nozzle size also increases strength while still being able to retain tiny layer lines.
Thanks for the video. Inspired by it, i tried printing printing asa with 1mm extrusion-width on a 0.4 nozzle(0.32 layer-height). Its a copy ring for a router. With normal extrusion-width the printed part was very easily destroyable by hand. The Parts with 1mm ew are indestructable by hand. The dimensional acuraricy wasnt great an the surface wasnt pretty. But, man, the stability is insane. And it printed quite faster even with slow 15mm/s...
Do you consider line overlap with your prints? Some prints aren’t as strong as there are only weak connections with the layer lines with the infill and wall. The extra extrusion pushes more out, but layer overlap % ensures better adhesion an irons the overlap, creating a better fusion with the plastic.
I usually print with 0,8mm nozzle, with 0,2mm layer height. The thing is that I don't print in pla, I use petg, abs nylon etc. And the difference in layer adhesion with this plastics without an enclosure is extremely notable. It's really simple the reason why, as you are printing more material, the temp cooldown of it is longer, so the adhesion between layers is better (the piece is hotter as you print). Also with some pieces I have problems of excesive temperatures between layers, normally small pieces (printing one at the time). As I said before, it's better to test with higher melting point plastics, PLA is not the better plastic to check for better layer adhesion, since with a normal 3d printer you get really good strengh of it.
It would be great to add an additional factor into the experiment, i.e. layer height of the 0.8mm nozzle. so as to compare the print time to strength. Gear videos and thank you
Just a note about your weight discrepancy and extrusion width in slic3r/prusaslicer. Detailed explanation: manual.slic3r.org/advanced/flow-math basically, 2 perimeters of 0.42mm width don't create a 0.84mm width perimeter but a 0.84 - layer_height * (1 - PI/4), so for 0.15 layer height you have ~0,808mm width => less plastic. With 4 perimeters, it's 4 * 0.42 - 3* layer_height * (1 - PI/4) ~=1,583 (and not 1,68). This thing become very important strength-wise if you want to extrude a wall with only perimeters. Because if your wall isn't near enough the real width, you may have a weaker bonding between perimeters (almost not touching and not enough empty space to extrude gap fill).
we are setting up a channel. a farm as well. all in support of our environmentally friendly hotrod shop. i appreciate your contributions here and have learned mush faster as a result. this guys f#@$%&g brilliant!
The reason I moved to a bigger .6 mm nozzle was bot for strength, but for the bigger layer heights and hence faster printing. So I still think bigger nozzles have significant advantages
I found that lowering part cooling significantly increases layer adhesion and part strength. If I’m printing something that needs to be stronger I will try to get away with a little or no cooling if possible.
When printing something for stength, i use a 1.2 nozzle on a volcano copy hotend. Edit: I also print at 0.6 layer height and use slow speeds. Abit suprised to see that i may aswell just use a smaller nozzle at higher speeds.
I've been using the 0.4mm nozzle for three years but my printing times for larger pieces (Electric Unicycle accessories especially...) were uncacceptable. I switched to 0.6mm nozzle with 0.4mm layer height, printing time became much more acceptable, I can really see the part growing along the day and it's very satisfying. The parts are also at least as strong and for big pieces I don't really miss the defition (if anything it looks better and fuller).
I originally switched to larger nozzles because I'm impatient, but I've since leaned into nozzle diameter as a major consideration at the part design level. IMO, this is a really efficient way to design and print functional parts with great strength (and speed). they don't look amazingly high-res, but you can't beat the performance and time.
I've got hot swappable 0.25mm | 0.04mm and 0.08mm nozzles, that all perform equally well with 2.85mm filament in the Ultimaker S3, however I agree when printing with 0.08mm, more material is laid down, without losing too much definition on drafts and larger builds, but starts to impact on the quality of smaller prints. I find 0.08mm tends to handle radiuses and sparse fill patterns with ease and without relying so much on the use of external supports. I do however prefer the finer line spacing that 0.025mm and 0.04mm nozzles offer. I found larger 2.85mm filament through an 0.04mm nozzle gives me many more 'draft' prints per kilogram. This my 3D noob opinion, I could be wrong. 😉
I have a 0.6mm Nozzle in my CR 10 mainly to reduce printtime while harnessing the full build volume. With the Stock firmware on it I don't want to run this printer nonstop for days. I like to print thick single wall vases and functional parts that print fast. I also use overextrusion with those vases to increase the wall thickness to 0.9mm. Since the tip of the Micro swiss nozzles doesn't have that much surface area in comparison to an E3D nozzle I can only go up to 0.9mm without squish artifacts.
Can you make a video about different nozzle materials like brass, hardened steel and tungsten? Maybe you could measure there thermal conductivity by measuring the layer adhesion at same print speeds.
If I may suggest test for you. Would like to see test hook mold in silicone, and then casts with various types of resin, and comapre them to 100% infill 3d printed hooks :3
Thank you for making these videos. In addition to your knowledge and adherence to good methodology for your experiments, you have an extremely pleasant voice which makes learning the material much easier and very nice.
FYI, if you change the orientation of this print, you can make it even stronger, larger nozzle or not. In this orientation, you break the "Bond" between the two layers. In the other orientation, you break the actual molecular bond, which requires far more strength.
Hallo Stefan, ich suchte gerade alle deine Videos durch, da ich für meine Arbeit schnell einen guten Einblick in das Thema finden muss. Deine Videos sind einfach mega gut. Punkt! Dennoch eine kleine Anmerkung: Die Linienbreiten stellt du um 02:24 rum mit 105% vor was in Linienbreiten von 0,42 mm und 0,84 mm mündet. Bei 09:26 schreibt du dann 0,44 bzw. 0,88 mm. Das soll aber keine negative Kritik darstellen. Mache weiter
I use a 0.6 and 0.8mm nozzle for large parts that don't need to look nice or for prototypes. They print super fast. For other prints, that need to look nice, i use a 0.4mm nozzle. I'm experimenting with a 0.2mm nozzle as well, but I only have petg at the moment and it's very hard to print with it. I had like 2g of PLA, and that worked great for the very bottom of a 50% size Benchy
I think it's importent to mention the extrution method, Bowden or Direct Drive. I'm pretty sure a bowden generally can't handle the higher extrusion pressure of doubling the extrusion width but a direct drive should be fine.
How does the increased extrusion multiplier effect part fitting tolerance? I would expect that as the multiplier increases you may see a marginal to moderate increase in the tolerance gaps but I haven't tested this idea.
Cura also contains Wall Line Width, Wall Line Thickness, and Wall Line Count. Ive heard that Shell Thickness set equal to nozzle size is a single Perimeter, aka wall line count. The default wall thickness is 1.2 mm for a standard 0.4 nozzle (petg), as well as for a 0.6 mm nozzle. Default wall count is 3. Layer height is 0.2. so to achieve this in cura (to achieve your strongest setting with 0.4 nozzle), is to set Wall Thickness to 1.68, and then Wall Line count to 2 (for emulating 0.6 mm nozzle it should be set to 1.2?). Flow needs to be turned up to 200 (I guess this is your version of Extrusion Width?). Hopefully this is the case because it solved a layer gap issue with my prints at the settings i've mentioned. the layer gaps could also be a problem with setting layer height to .3?. I increased my layer height to .3 for the added time to strength benefit, although I could have used .15 setting for a greater quality at the sake of time, like you mentioned. I calculated my numbers slowly by understanding the information in your bar graphs as they proceded on, and by gathering information from forums. I can also set my default nozzle size in cura to 0.6, but all things previously mentioned should be in place, including a .8 line width. Im printing this out right now so hopefully this is a correct understanding. also i guess overlap is how you are getting 105% layer width? and layer width will be at 200% since I've "doubled" my nozzle size... I believe it also forced me to increase the width of my walls...
Larger nozzles also have less clogs and will have lower nozzle pressure at those larger material flow rates. Ie. do not try with weak extruder like the one on Ender-3 "mk8" extruder, those are borderline even without using double extrusion width with 0.4mm nozzle.
Pretty sure that most people print with wider nozzle to be also able to print at higher layer height, saving the time (if your extruder can keep up). While you can go up to 0.6mm layer height with 0.8mm nozzle, you're stuck with 0.3 when using 0.4mm nozzle.
In your table displayed at 2:38, I note you haven't used the Optimal wall thickness calculations as provided by PrusaSlicer, and described in detail at manual.slic3r.org/advanced/flow-math. I might be wrong, but I think you don't want to just multiply extrusion width with perimeters, as you would leave gaps in between due to the circular flow. So when you go to slice it, the slicer will likely change your wall thicknesses (or add infill, which is undesirable to your strength analysis), and you won't have the wall thicknesses lining up between your two nozzle comparisons. So for example the optimal wall thickness of 0.15 layer height and 0.42 extrusion width with 4 lines is 1.64mm, not 1.68mm in your table. For your 0.8 nozzle at 0.15 layer height 0.84 extrusion width and 2 lines it is 1.62mm not 1.68mm. If your model pre-slicing was > 1.64mm for both cases, then I think prusa will add infill to top them all up to your model's desired wall width (or leave them with a slight gap). If your model pre-slicing was lower than 1.64mm, then you actually end up with different wall thicknesses between your two tests. For example if your wall width is 1.6mm, then your 0.4 nozzle test will have a wall thickness of 1.62 and your 0.8 nozzle test will have a wall thickness of 1.64, which would skew your results.
I have two ender three and I recently just equipped a 1 mm nozzle it’s the best thing ever. you can still do smaller layer lines like .3 mm but it’s just so much quicker.
This was helpful, and I've been hoping you'd address this aspect of the process. My need is for large (approx. 500X500X1000mm assembled), strong parts printed as fast as possible with no regard for appearance, as the parts are completely covered by other material in the final product. The 3d printed part will provide only structure. My current plan is to set up a Modix Big60 with a 2mm nozzle. Playing around in Cura tells me that I should be able to get one full product printed in under 30 hours. I'm hoping that once the machine is in house and dialed in, I can get it down to
The hard part about giant parts is dealing with curl--I printed an 800x300mm multipane window in PETG on a 1.5mm nozzle at 1mm layer height, and despite the enormous brim mostly successfully holding it to the 75C heated bed, the vertical planes actually warped enough to require post-print straightening. I'd look at a heated build chamber, as hot as you can get it, and/or filament with glass or carbon fiber to reduce thermal shrink.
I use large nozzles for very flexible material. Twice the size of nozzle is about 1/4 of the extrusion pressure. This prevents jamming with soft material.
I mainly use 1mm nozzle with 0,5 layers. I use it for printing faster and stronger easily. And in bonus it Make cheap filament look better + it make wood filament and suchlike printable without worrying about clogging the nozzle.
I use .6mm and .8mm on a regular basis and at the moment I'm printing an adapter for my vacuum cleaner with my 1.5mm nozzle. Yep, on 1.75mm Filament xD That thing is perfect to get rid of a lot of filament FAST. Oh and also for ducts, containers, pipes n stuff...so basically anything vasemodable
My thoughts... "holy shit". LMAO That is insane results. I've got to play around with this concept. I just switched to a 1mm nozzle for the first time....this is so much fun to watch!
I use 0.8 because the majority of my prints are fairly large and I don't care too much about how they look or tolerances. Speed and function are my main priorities.
I already use a 0,8 mm nozzle for roughly 50% of the prints. I generally keep the same standard 0,2 mm layer height, so that if the model is not complex it will look the same as if it would have been printed with a 0,4 mm nozzle, but still halving print time.
I noticed that changing the nozzle-size in cura affects the layer adhsion of the print. If i use my 0.3 nozzle with a 0.4 nozzle setting (still with 0.3 line width) the layer adhesion is better than with the 0.3 nozzle setting
you should compare with 100% infill, they might contain close similar weight / amount of filament. that way you can gauge it strength only nozzle is variable.
I have been messing around lately with trying to tell the slicer I have a bigger nozzle. I find that telling cura I have a .5mm but use a .4mm I get less failure and faster prints when using PETG it seems to be the sweet spot.
If I understand correctly if strength AND speed are your priorities then 0.8 nozzle is the way to go if strength and appearance matter the 0.4 nozzle printing slow, wide and more perimeters are where it's at.
I try to print with ,8 nozzle and ,6 layers just because i'm inpatient, TPU socket protections in 11 min without stringing. And as you said its time vs strength. and emulate larger nozzles create less reliable prints. I had 25% fails when i tried. So big nozzles and ,3 to ,6 layers depending on the part. (I do spare parts for equipment in the auto industry) You should try a video about accuracy, i'll have a spread of 0,02 mm over 80 parts (except for one scrapped due to adhesion) for gauges for my tuned prints in PETG.
Could you check the results with 0.8 nozzle at above 50% layer heights? like 0.4 / 0.5 / 0.6 heights? I've been printing strong parts for a long time, and was always under the impression, with a larger nozzle, that around a 50% layer height to nozzle width ratio was ideal, atleast with 110% width.
I appreciate the time and effort you go through doing these tests. I use 0.8 a lot. I primarily print prototype or functional pieces and I'm targeting speed. I am curious about what the data would like like for 0.8mm at 1.6mm. It would also be interesting to see how these modifications affect overhangs. As the ratio of layer height to nozzle diameter decreases, the ability to support greater overhang angle should improve. This would inform the user of optimal overhangs based on the nozzle diameter, extrusion width, and layer height.
It would also be interesting to see how changing the extension width differently for outer perimeters, inner perimeters, and infill affects the strength vs. finish quality of the outer skin.
i have been an injection moulding technician for 27 years but i am new to 3d printing. Do you use reverse taper tips for nylon and a.b.s to help material separation at the tip like we do in injection moulding? Do you just use different size straight through nozzles because of fillament?
@@CNCKitchen thank you, it looks like no one is using the type of reverse taper tips i use, they help with material seperation at the nozzle tip, i wonder why, not beneficial?
in my experience, and without meassuring gear, fat extrusions arent of much benefit for PLA, unless you want that layered look. it's great for vase mode, though. but it's a whole different story with PETG, where a thicc extrusion cross section and slow printing speed work wonders for chunky structural parts. (use little to no cooling. ideally the top 2-3mm of the print should visibly still be above the GTT! a big, flat nozzle face helps to transfer more heat into the print, and massage the still pliable layers into eachother. pratically tempering the4 part as it prints.)
@@chloemcholoe3280 I'd recommend to uprade to volcano-style hotend for 0.8 mm and bigger nozzles. And use a decent extruder feeder to provide enough grip with filament. It is also needed to decrease printing speed at least twice compared to 0.4mm nozzle settings. Overall printing time will be substantially shorter anyway. Layers at sharp corners sometimes do not always adhere very well at high speeds. So if your model has a lot of sharp corners - decrease the speed. Also try to avoid infills, or decrease infill speed setting. If it's not possible - use rectilinear infill.
@@igorfedik5730 i know and I already used a volcano with a bmg :P the issue is that with such a big nozzle you need a TON of cooling so you slow down to v6~ speeds anyway (i have to do 20mm/s.... still rubbery after prints...) I use cubic infill since it's better IMO and doesn't have any crossings or bumps overall not very practical for anyone but a very few specific people and use cases
it would be rather interesting to figure out a test that would measure "in-built stress" in each part. Observing warping alone and PP filament I "had a feeling" (no real test :( ) that inbuilt stress is much lower on the 0.6mm layer 1mm width with .8mm nozzle than lower layer height and smaller nozzle. But would be cool to make a test and test range of materials * range of nozzles with "ideal" nozzle conditions (*1.2 for width and *.5 for height)
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I believe your strength per time results would have been very different if you were using a higher flow hotend. With a volcano you can print with a 0.8mm nozzle at flowrates that you would not be able to match with the 0.4mm without significantly increasing your print speed which will bring it's own problems.
I use a volcano with a 1mm nozzle for the majority of the items that I make because I'm trying to make strong and/or tall objects quickly. On one of my parts I was able to take a day off my print time while reducing print head speed (thereby reducing vibration and improving print quality) vs the one I made with a E3Dv6 clone. This is with the same wall thickness.
I am tempted to try your extrusion width trick later to see what results I get, but I'm a little skeptical of getting similar times considering that I'm running 12x the flowrate that you did in the video.
dude you are the best 3d printing youtuber out there! im working in the field of printing, and i surely dont need no inspiration or curiosity boost, i already have that - and thats why i dont like watching youtube vids about printing, they lack pure information. Thats why you are the best of the best, you dont follow the route of those poularizers, and for the unique info you are giving i keep watching you and i shall watch every single one of your videos for the time i care about this technology.
3 mm3/s makes ugly bridges 🐍🐍🐍
Why do u have z hop activated?
I think it's a flawed test because it doesn't compare solid objects, just material volume.
Maybe you ought to write some sort of small guide book summarising all of the proven methods of tweaking a 3d printer to customise produced prints to ones needs.
I'd buy it.
There's the playlist "3D printing for engineers" in his channel
Or just a quick and easy to use spreadsheet 😊
Just watch his videos!
Awesome breakdown, I've always wondered if the extrusion width cheat was as strong as just upping the nozzle! I'm a little addicted to big nozzles atm to print pots and such in vase mode, the time saving is really obscene.
Great work! "Emulating" larger nozzles works very well and is a big reason I prefer e3d style nozzles (as opposed to the pointy, mk8 style nozzles). Something that you may not have encountered in your testing due to 3mm^3/s cap on volumetric flow, I've found that going with extrusion width >150% nozzle diameter can result in extrusions "buckling" as they leave the nozzle, and coming out wiggly and unpredictably. I imagine this is likely due to the extra back-pressure that builds up when extruding large volumes through small nozzles at high speeds. Thus larger nozzles allow you to use larger extrusion widths at higher print speeds, which further increases strength per unit time.
I love my 0.8mm nozzle for spiral vase mode prints. Fast and strong prints. Pushing out a 1mm wall thickness (with the 0.8mm) works great too!
A huge thank you for the wonderful work you do for the 3d printing community.
You've absolutely covered every question I was going to ask, like random infill and time to print!!! Great video as always.
I would be interested in the best ratio between infill and wall thickness for minimal material use and maximal strength.
I've been using a 0.6mm CHT nozzle for a few weeks now. For my parts (mostly functional, rather simple parts) this still is fine enough and I can just print them much faster at 0.3mm layer height, 0.8mm line width with just 2 perimeters at high speeds.
Speed was the main reason for the upgrade (obviously, since it's a CHT).
Perhaps something to add that me and a few people talked about recently via the comments. Measuring the strength against speed of print on the same layer height and extrusion width. Essentially at what point in material extrusion rate and movement speed does it adversely impact strength ue to lower strength of layer bonds and of course the opposite at what point does performance peak with slow speed when giving material in the layers adjacent and below to heat optimally and become a single solid as opposed to two bonded solids.
You somewhat covered it in concept. How with larger nozzles which means a longer melt zone etc etc you can get more material out at a consistent temperature that is melted correctly.
But I and many other people would probably love to see the data. For example, at X material output per second the bonding was Y strong. At X*2 speed strength was Z percentage of Y's strength.
So we can see how directly proportional the strength to material output capability is.
I'd imagine that would be very situational. I'd imagine a few variables would be your printers specific cooling setup, length of melt zone, the temperature you're printing at, or the temperature in the room just to name a few.
I'm just starting out 3D printing, so I've only used the 0.4 millimeter nozzle that the printer came with. However, I hope to experiment with smaller and larger nozzles for different prints in the future. Thanks for another one of the best 3D printing data analysis videos!
I use large nozzles for large functional parts. For example I have printed a streered rudder for my kayak with 1 mm nozzle.
LITERALLY 5 MINUTES AFTER I TRIED ON MY VOLCANO WITH A 1.0 DUDE ARE YOU SPYING ON ME
:P
Amazing work. The community can’t thank you enough!
I have printed almost all of the lampshades in my house using a 0.6mm nozzle and clear PETG. The PETG that I have been using is a very cheap one and tends to bubble and spit. This, along with the coarse layer height, gives a really nice texture that looks almost woven. On some lampshade designs I have also used Cura' "fuzzy skin" option. Because some of the shades are quite big and because PETG is a bit flexible and I'm printing in vase mode the shades are quite flexible so have to be printed very slowly. Still, who cares if they look good.
If it tends to bubble then you should try drying the filament befor usage.
Thanks for your videos. I USe 0.6mm nozzle on a X5S and I like it more and more. Initialty it was to print flex because I always got underextrusion with 0.4. Now I use the 0.6 also for the PLA, keeping layer height at 0.2mm. I like the quality of the print at least a much as with 0.4, even more. Next time, I may try with a Volcano at 0.6mm, it may well be a more versatile solution for the various filement types PLA, PETG, flex, and PTU
Hmmm... nice!
Now having to test the .8 nozzle with 200% width? A 1.6 mm virtual nozzle... ? Would this work?
Your universal load tester makes a trippy sci-fi sound! Love it!
I use a 0.8 nozzle for vases. Makes them more likely to be watertight.
Have you tried a high extrusion radio on a. 4 nozzle to see if you can achieve the same result?
@@dude6935 I did once. Wasn't watertight. But I only did .5mm width. I think .6mm is the maximum before you start getting issues from the plastic curling around the nozzle tip. With the .8 nozzle I can do 1.0mm, which is very sturdy.
@@draakevil
I commonly print water-tight vases with my 0.4mm nozzle. I've found using 4 bottom layers, 0.6mm extrusion width, and 1.1x extrusion multiplier all together will ensure that plastic really gets squished into every little hole to plug them all up.
As for stock E3D nozzles (or clones made to E3D spec), the flat on the tip of the nozzle is the theoretical maximum extrusion width, and is 1.0mm for the 0.4mm nozzle, or 2.0mm for the 0.8mm nozzle. They are all documented here: e3d-online.dozuki.com/Document/SMgf2USbusbvTpKT/V6-NOZZLE-ALL-%28Edition-8.1%29.pdf. I generally only go to 80% of those values as a reasonable maximum.
.4 can produce a waterproof result and might look better to some but .8 prints faster.
@@seriousmaran9414 If it's vase mode, having a bigger nozzle will only speed up the print time of the bottom layers - the whole spiral part is one long line the same length regardless of extrusion width - have to go thicker layers to speed that part up, or just more mm/s raw speed, which the smaller nozzle will handle better.
Well, I drilled stock 0.4 nozzle with small sewing needle to get it bigger. Increased extruder esteps from factory set 93 to 98 in my old CR10 with less infill... What a time saver.... 😁
oh my god these videos are helping me so much its incredible these videos are open for everyone thank you
In Prusia slicer most % values are calculated based on layer hight, not nozzle width. Fell in to this trap too.
Using 0.8 for all prints with 1mm extrusion width that ends up in 1.00-1.05 actual width. Makes disign simplier. And prints are actually reliable. (btw. Using abs)
Just checked Prusia slicer. If you put % values into extrusion width parameters, it actually calculates all parameters based of layer hight, and not the nozzle diameter.
No wonder there is no actual difference in test results.
For clarification, I've been putting the values into prusa slicer as numeric values and not as %.
Great video as always love your content!
One important remark: extrusion multiplier 200% is NOT the same as double nozzle diameter. The flow through a twice bigger nozzle is FOUR times bigger.
That is why you have holes on the 200% print. It is two times under-extruded. Should be 400%.
No, it isn't, as long as you leave the layer height the same.
I'm pretty sure he was talking abt extrusion width. In this case, the slicer should adapt to extrude 400% the material, and then doubling the layer height should double the volume once more. I might be wrong with my math however.
The main perk of a 0.8mm nozzle is the lower extrusion backpressure and the capsbility of larger layers. Its easier to print TPU for example and you dont need as strong of an extruder with a larger nozzle compared to printing the same settings with a smaller nozzle. What happens if you have a 1.75mm nozzle with 1.75 mm filament? Not a CHT, just a standard round bore nozzle?
Another great video! I've got a 0.6mm nozzle coming soon (I hope, longer shipping time directly from e3d than from aliexpress at the moment :/ ) and it feels like a 0.6mm nozzle would be a great standard nozzle where I can both decrease extrusion width for delicate things with thin walls, but go up to 0.9mm for optimal strength, which is where I'm guessing my current heating limitation for good flow and speed is.
The problem of using bigger extrusion widths may be bridges. As in the first layers there is no good support, or no support at all, for the nozzle to squish the plastic. The same for steep overhangs.
So the uptake in resin printers has me thinking:
Dude! I'd like to, for science, challenge/request/suggest (whatever works!) you to see how strong a part can be made by printing (either method to be honest, UV it FDM) a single wall outline and then filling it with epoxy resin. The idea being that a complicated part can be printed and then have the strength of a single object, with epoxy being difficult at best to shape into complicated parts.
Will post this comment on a couple of other channels if you can't be bothered, but it sounds to me like a great for science episode!
Just saw a similar idea at the Bosch industrial AM booth at the latest formnext where they print the walls with FDM and fill the void with injection molding material to achieve injection molding strength with lot size 1 design flexibility.
It's been done - ruclips.net/video/iICk_ZpY4Cs/видео.html
Nice, will check out that vid, cheers! And glad I'm about on par with Bosch! 😂
Those results sound about right for what I have experienced with larger nozzles. They are great for saving time on large prints.
I always print with a 0.6mm nozzle with the main reason being my impatience. The details is very similar to 0.4 and the print time is massively reduced.
yep.... .6 is my go to...
I am considering this. Is the retraction clean with the 0.6mm nozzle and 0.3mm layers?
@@GnuReligion try 1.2mm, it's even better :)
@@cu3d I suppose you could over extrude that 1.2mm to 2mm lines, an print in 1mm layers? That would certainly be laying down some material.
What settings do you have to change in the slicer in order to make them work?
I print solid 2020 bracket parts from PETG with a .6 nozzle, .6 width, .4 layer height, and they are crazy strong.
I never use .4mm anymore because the die swell adds a hundreds place decimal making it .48mm. Instead, I use .5mm nozzle because the die swell adds an even .1mm creating a realistic .6mm width. Much easier to consider when designing dimensionally accurate parts. The slight increase in nozzle size also increases strength while still being able to retain tiny layer lines.
Might I also add that it prevents more clogs with fibrous filaments than a standard .4mm.
Thanks for the video.
Inspired by it, i tried printing printing asa with 1mm extrusion-width on a 0.4 nozzle(0.32 layer-height). Its a copy ring for a router. With normal extrusion-width the printed part was very easily destroyable by hand. The Parts with 1mm ew are indestructable by hand. The dimensional acuraricy wasnt great an the surface wasnt pretty. But, man, the stability is insane. And it printed quite faster even with slow 15mm/s...
Do you consider line overlap with your prints? Some prints aren’t as strong as there are only weak connections with the layer lines with the infill and wall. The extra extrusion pushes more out, but layer overlap % ensures better adhesion an irons the overlap, creating a better fusion with the plastic.
I usually print with 0,8mm nozzle, with 0,2mm layer height. The thing is that I don't print in pla, I use petg, abs nylon etc. And the difference in layer adhesion with this plastics without an enclosure is extremely notable. It's really simple the reason why, as you are printing more material, the temp cooldown of it is longer, so the adhesion between layers is better (the piece is hotter as you print). Also with some pieces I have problems of excesive temperatures between layers, normally small pieces (printing one at the time). As I said before, it's better to test with higher melting point plastics, PLA is not the better plastic to check for better layer adhesion, since with a normal 3d printer you get really good strengh of it.
I recommend doing a video on HDPE filament. I think it would be a huge benefit because of its many awesome properties including recyclability.
Do that and even exist? Hdpe warps like crazyyy
It would be great to add an additional factor into the experiment, i.e. layer height of the 0.8mm nozzle. so as to compare the print time to strength. Gear videos and thank you
Just a note about your weight discrepancy and extrusion width in slic3r/prusaslicer.
Detailed explanation: manual.slic3r.org/advanced/flow-math
basically, 2 perimeters of 0.42mm width don't create a 0.84mm width perimeter but a 0.84 - layer_height * (1 - PI/4), so for 0.15 layer height you have ~0,808mm width => less plastic. With 4 perimeters, it's 4 * 0.42 - 3* layer_height * (1 - PI/4) ~=1,583 (and not 1,68).
This thing become very important strength-wise if you want to extrude a wall with only perimeters. Because if your wall isn't near enough the real width, you may have a weaker bonding between perimeters (almost not touching and not enough empty space to extrude gap fill).
we are setting up a channel. a farm as well. all in support of our environmentally friendly hotrod shop. i appreciate your contributions here and have learned mush faster as a result. this guys f#@$%&g brilliant!
Make SquareSpace with big nozzles 🐍🐍🐍 💜
The reason I moved to a bigger .6 mm nozzle was bot for strength, but for the bigger layer heights and hence faster printing. So I still think bigger nozzles have significant advantages
I found that lowering part cooling significantly increases layer adhesion and part strength. If I’m printing something that needs to be stronger I will try to get away with a little or no cooling if possible.
When printing something for stength, i use a 1.2 nozzle on a volcano copy hotend.
Edit: I also print at 0.6 layer height and use slow speeds. Abit suprised to see that i may aswell just use a smaller nozzle at higher speeds.
print with a .6 and 2 walls, i used to print in a .4 and 3 walls but basically its a time saver making the swap
I've been using the 0.4mm nozzle for three years but my printing times for larger pieces (Electric Unicycle accessories especially...) were uncacceptable. I switched to 0.6mm nozzle with 0.4mm layer height, printing time became much more acceptable, I can really see the part growing along the day and it's very satisfying. The parts are also at least as strong and for big pieces I don't really miss the defition (if anything it looks better and fuller).
I originally switched to larger nozzles because I'm impatient, but I've since leaned into nozzle diameter as a major consideration at the part design level.
IMO, this is a really efficient way to design and print functional parts with great strength (and speed). they don't look amazingly high-res, but you can't beat the performance and time.
Yes i do use bigger nozzles (1 and 0.8 mm). Just for faster printing or prototyping
I've got hot swappable 0.25mm | 0.04mm and 0.08mm nozzles, that all perform equally well with 2.85mm filament in the Ultimaker S3, however I agree when printing with 0.08mm, more material is laid down, without losing too much definition on drafts and larger builds, but starts to impact on the quality of smaller prints. I find 0.08mm tends to handle radiuses and sparse fill patterns with ease and without relying so much on the use of external supports. I do however prefer the finer line spacing that 0.025mm and 0.04mm nozzles offer. I found larger 2.85mm filament through an 0.04mm nozzle gives me many more 'draft' prints per kilogram.
This my 3D noob opinion, I could be wrong. 😉
Wow, great set of tests! Thanks for running through the different variations to achieve stronger prints.
I have a 0.6mm Nozzle in my CR 10 mainly to reduce printtime while harnessing the full build volume. With the Stock firmware on it I don't want to run this printer nonstop for days. I like to print thick single wall vases and functional parts that print fast. I also use overextrusion with those vases to increase the wall thickness to 0.9mm. Since the tip of the Micro swiss nozzles doesn't have that much surface area in comparison to an E3D nozzle I can only go up to 0.9mm without squish artifacts.
Gong to try this on a problem part and see how it works for me on Bambu A1, sounds interesting.
Fantastic conclusion and recommendation.
Can you make a video about different nozzle materials like brass, hardened steel and tungsten? Maybe you could measure there thermal conductivity by measuring the layer adhesion at same print speeds.
In the works ;-)
There is already chart on Trianglelabs available.
If I may suggest test for you. Would like to see test hook mold in silicone, and then casts with various types of resin, and comapre them to 100% infill 3d printed hooks :3
Thank you for making these videos. In addition to your knowledge and adherence to good methodology for your experiments, you have an extremely pleasant voice which makes learning the material much easier and very nice.
the resin suppliers like ifun are starting to advertise tough resins such as "ABS like". i'd love to see some of these resins being strength tested
Watch this : ruclips.net/video/nDQjFuyWY38/видео.html
And that : ruclips.net/video/to3OxYR_o1I/видео.html
Another very interesting insight, thank you Stefan and it was great seeing you at Form Next!
What about finding optimal nozzle diameter/extr. width ratio? That could be interesting.
FYI, if you change the orientation of this print, you can make it even stronger, larger nozzle or not. In this orientation, you break the "Bond" between the two layers. In the other orientation, you break the actual molecular bond, which requires far more strength.
Those bridges would be a challenge without support though.
Hallo Stefan,
ich suchte gerade alle deine Videos durch, da ich für meine Arbeit schnell einen guten Einblick in das Thema finden muss. Deine Videos sind einfach mega gut. Punkt! Dennoch eine kleine Anmerkung: Die Linienbreiten stellt du um 02:24 rum mit 105% vor was in Linienbreiten von 0,42 mm und 0,84 mm mündet. Bei 09:26 schreibt du dann 0,44 bzw. 0,88 mm. Das soll aber keine negative Kritik darstellen. Mache weiter
I use a 0.6 and 0.8mm nozzle for large parts that don't need to look nice or for prototypes. They print super fast. For other prints, that need to look nice, i use a 0.4mm nozzle. I'm experimenting with a 0.2mm nozzle as well, but I only have petg at the moment and it's very hard to print with it. I had like 2g of PLA, and that worked great for the very bottom of a 50% size Benchy
I think it's importent to mention the extrution method, Bowden or Direct Drive. I'm pretty sure a bowden generally can't handle the higher extrusion pressure of doubling the extrusion width but a direct drive should be fine.
How does the increased extrusion multiplier effect part fitting tolerance? I would expect that as the multiplier increases you may see a marginal to moderate increase in the tolerance gaps but I haven't tested this idea.
Cura also contains Wall Line Width, Wall Line Thickness, and Wall Line Count. Ive heard that Shell Thickness set equal to nozzle size is a single Perimeter, aka wall line count. The default wall thickness is 1.2 mm for a standard 0.4 nozzle (petg), as well as for a 0.6 mm nozzle. Default wall count is 3. Layer height is 0.2. so to achieve this in cura (to achieve your strongest setting with 0.4 nozzle), is to set Wall Thickness to 1.68, and then Wall Line count to 2 (for emulating 0.6 mm nozzle it should be set to 1.2?). Flow needs to be turned up to 200 (I guess this is your version of Extrusion Width?). Hopefully this is the case because it solved a layer gap issue with my prints at the settings i've mentioned. the layer gaps could also be a problem with setting layer height to .3?. I increased my layer height to .3 for the added time to strength benefit, although I could have used .15 setting for a greater quality at the sake of time, like you mentioned. I calculated my numbers slowly by understanding the information in your bar graphs as they proceded on, and by gathering information from forums. I can also set my default nozzle size in cura to 0.6, but all things previously mentioned should be in place, including a .8 line width. Im printing this out right now so hopefully this is a correct understanding. also i guess overlap is how you are getting 105% layer width? and layer width will be at 200% since I've "doubled" my nozzle size... I believe it also forced me to increase the width of my walls...
Fantastic and useful information, as usual! :D
I'd really love you to do a video about 3D printing material creep.
Larger nozzles also have less clogs and will have lower nozzle pressure at those larger material flow rates.
Ie. do not try with weak extruder like the one on Ender-3 "mk8" extruder, those are borderline even without using double extrusion width with 0.4mm nozzle.
Pretty sure that most people print with wider nozzle to be also able to print at higher layer height, saving the time (if your extruder can keep up).
While you can go up to 0.6mm layer height with 0.8mm nozzle, you're stuck with 0.3 when using 0.4mm nozzle.
A very interesting comparison and break down. Thank you :)
8:20 I like that power cord near your hotend, they are the colours of the German flag ! :)
DEUTSCHLAND DEUTSCHLAND ÜBER ALLES
Wow this stuff is fantastic! Please keep up these kinds of videos!
In your table displayed at 2:38, I note you haven't used the Optimal wall thickness calculations as provided by PrusaSlicer, and described in detail at manual.slic3r.org/advanced/flow-math. I might be wrong, but I think you don't want to just multiply extrusion width with perimeters, as you would leave gaps in between due to the circular flow. So when you go to slice it, the slicer will likely change your wall thicknesses (or add infill, which is undesirable to your strength analysis), and you won't have the wall thicknesses lining up between your two nozzle comparisons.
So for example the optimal wall thickness of 0.15 layer height and 0.42 extrusion width with 4 lines is 1.64mm, not 1.68mm in your table. For your 0.8 nozzle at 0.15 layer height 0.84 extrusion width and 2 lines it is 1.62mm not 1.68mm. If your model pre-slicing was > 1.64mm for both cases, then I think prusa will add infill to top them all up to your model's desired wall width (or leave them with a slight gap). If your model pre-slicing was lower than 1.64mm, then you actually end up with different wall thicknesses between your two tests. For example if your wall width is 1.6mm, then your 0.4 nozzle test will have a wall thickness of 1.62 and your 0.8 nozzle test will have a wall thickness of 1.64, which would skew your results.
I have two ender three and I recently just equipped a 1 mm nozzle it’s the best thing ever. you can still do smaller layer lines like .3 mm but it’s just so much quicker.
Hi what nozzle temperature are you running
Bigger nozzles never lie. They're big. Fantasy 3D printing 💟
This was helpful, and I've been hoping you'd address this aspect of the process. My need is for large (approx. 500X500X1000mm assembled), strong parts printed as fast as possible with no regard for appearance, as the parts are completely covered by other material in the final product. The 3d printed part will provide only structure. My current plan is to set up a Modix Big60 with a 2mm nozzle. Playing around in Cura tells me that I should be able to get one full product printed in under 30 hours. I'm hoping that once the machine is in house and dialed in, I can get it down to
The hard part about giant parts is dealing with curl--I printed an 800x300mm multipane window in PETG on a 1.5mm nozzle at 1mm layer height, and despite the enormous brim mostly successfully holding it to the 75C heated bed, the vertical planes actually warped enough to require post-print straightening. I'd look at a heated build chamber, as hot as you can get it, and/or filament with glass or carbon fiber to reduce thermal shrink.
I use large nozzles for very flexible material. Twice the size of nozzle is about 1/4 of the extrusion pressure. This prevents jamming with soft material.
I mainly use 1mm nozzle with 0,5 layers.
I use it for printing faster and stronger easily.
And in bonus it Make cheap filament look better + it make wood filament and suchlike printable without worrying about clogging the nozzle.
I use .6mm and .8mm on a regular basis and at the moment I'm printing an adapter for my vacuum cleaner with my 1.5mm nozzle. Yep, on 1.75mm Filament xD That thing is perfect to get rid of a lot of filament FAST. Oh and also for ducts, containers, pipes n stuff...so basically anything vasemodable
What's The Best Setting Of 0.4mm Nozzle?
My thoughts... "holy shit". LMAO That is insane results. I've got to play around with this concept. I just switched to a 1mm nozzle for the first time....this is so much fun to watch!
I use 0.8 because the majority of my prints are fairly large and I don't care too much about how they look or tolerances. Speed and function are my main priorities.
i have a year printing in 0.8mm the time diference is so big, i only consider small nozzel for more detail but in big prints big nozzel is my favorite
I already use a 0,8 mm nozzle for roughly 50% of the prints. I generally keep the same standard 0,2 mm layer height, so that if the model is not complex it will look the same as if it would have been printed with a 0,4 mm nozzle, but still halving print time.
I noticed that changing the nozzle-size in cura affects the layer adhsion of the print. If i use my 0.3 nozzle with a 0.4 nozzle setting (still with 0.3 line width) the layer adhesion is better than with the 0.3 nozzle setting
you should compare with 100% infill, they might contain close similar weight / amount of filament.
that way you can gauge it strength only nozzle is variable.
I have been messing around lately with trying to tell the slicer I have a bigger nozzle. I find that telling cura I have a .5mm but use a .4mm I get less failure and faster prints when using PETG it seems to be the sweet spot.
such wow much nice very informative
If I understand correctly if strength AND speed are your priorities then 0.8 nozzle is the way to go if strength and appearance matter the 0.4 nozzle printing slow, wide and more perimeters are where it's at.
I try to print with ,8 nozzle and ,6 layers just because i'm inpatient, TPU socket protections in 11 min without stringing. And as you said its time vs strength. and emulate larger nozzles create less reliable prints. I had 25% fails when i tried. So big nozzles and ,3 to ,6 layers depending on the part. (I do spare parts for equipment in the auto industry)
You should try a video about accuracy, i'll have a spread of 0,02 mm over 80 parts (except for one scrapped due to adhesion) for gauges for my tuned prints in PETG.
I'm printing everything with a 0.6 hardened nozzle these days and won't be going back to a smaller one unless I want super fine details.
You are the best my friend. Thanks a lot!!
great information, thanks for being so thorough
Could you check the results with 0.8 nozzle at above 50% layer heights? like 0.4 / 0.5 / 0.6 heights? I've been printing strong parts for a long time, and was always under the impression, with a larger nozzle, that around a 50% layer height to nozzle width ratio was ideal, atleast with 110% width.
*If your printing for strength the best trick is print at slow speed and run the temperature 8% over recommended temp.*
I appreciate the time and effort you go through doing these tests. I use 0.8 a lot. I primarily print prototype or functional pieces and I'm targeting speed.
I am curious about what the data would like like for 0.8mm at 1.6mm.
It would also be interesting to see how these modifications affect overhangs. As the ratio of layer height to nozzle diameter decreases, the ability to support greater overhang angle should improve. This would inform the user of optimal overhangs based on the nozzle diameter, extrusion width, and layer height.
It would also be interesting to see how changing the extension width differently for outer perimeters, inner perimeters, and infill affects the strength vs. finish quality of the outer skin.
I use .8 on a e3maxx for structure and .4 on my e3v2 for looks
i have been an injection moulding technician for 27 years but i am new to 3d printing.
Do you use reverse taper tips for nylon and a.b.s to help material separation at the tip like we do in injection moulding?
Do you just use different size straight through nozzles because of fillament?
3D printer nozzles mostly look pretty much the same like the one in this drawing: wiki.e3d-online.com/images/b/b2/DRAWING-V6-175-NOZZLE.png
@@CNCKitchen thank you, it looks like no one is using the type of reverse taper tips i use, they help with material seperation at the nozzle tip, i wonder why, not beneficial?
Be a stereotypical dude and lie about your nozzle size to the slicer.
lol! This really works great when the slicer has stupid builtin limitations on layer height and extrusion width.
Aah yes
in my experience, and without meassuring gear, fat extrusions arent of much benefit for PLA, unless you want that layered look. it's great for vase mode, though.
but it's a whole different story with PETG, where a thicc extrusion cross section and slow printing speed work wonders for chunky structural parts. (use little to no cooling. ideally the top 2-3mm of the print should visibly still be above the GTT! a big, flat nozzle face helps to transfer more heat into the print, and massage the still pliable layers into eachother. pratically tempering the4 part as it prints.)
Fear the fully automated luxury serfdom
I'd like to see the same experimental tests with ABS and PETG filaments.
I use a 0.6mm nozzle for almost everything. I mostly print functional parts. The main reason I do it is for time savings.
most of my parts don't work well at all with larger than 0.4 nozzles.
@@chloemcholoe3280 I'd recommend to uprade to volcano-style hotend for 0.8 mm and bigger nozzles. And use a decent extruder feeder to provide enough grip with filament. It is also needed to decrease printing speed at least twice compared to 0.4mm nozzle settings. Overall printing time will be substantially shorter anyway. Layers at sharp corners sometimes do not always adhere very well at high speeds. So if your model has a lot of sharp corners - decrease the speed. Also try to avoid infills, or decrease infill speed setting. If it's not possible - use rectilinear infill.
@@igorfedik5730 i know and I already used a volcano with a bmg :P the issue is that with such a big nozzle you need a TON of cooling so you slow down to v6~ speeds anyway (i have to do 20mm/s.... still rubbery after prints...)
I use cubic infill since it's better IMO and doesn't have any crossings or bumps
overall not very practical for anyone but a very few specific people and use cases
0.6 in? Are you printing houses out of concrete?
@@neplatnyudaj110 lol probably a mistake
it would be rather interesting to figure out a test that would measure "in-built stress" in each part. Observing warping alone and PP filament I "had a feeling" (no real test :( ) that inbuilt stress is much lower on the 0.6mm layer 1mm width with .8mm nozzle than lower layer height and smaller nozzle. But would be cool to make a test and test range of materials * range of nozzles with "ideal" nozzle conditions (*1.2 for width and *.5 for height)