They're not that tough to use, but they do have a learning curve much steeper than that of FDM printers! 99% of the difficulty is realizing that all the tricks you learned for FDM printing don't apply to SLA
or maybe understand how to print in resin without so much crying. I don't understand how he generated so much garbage for a few prints. they could all go on the same bed, it was 1 run. He clearly also wasn't using a mono. Honestly if you do have a resin printer and know how to use one it is much better, faster, cheaper and more reliable and less fiddly than messing around with a .1mm FDM nozzle and waiting 30h for something that looks worse than what you get out of a resin printer in 10 minutes. I could have run off the same comparison prints and had the waste of 1 pair of disposable gloves. I mean, he doesn't even have a wash and cure station! It's like saying FDM printing isn't worth it and all you have is an M3D micro as an example.
my point was more that resin printing is more hands-on and not the same as FDM, not that resin is worse somehow resin is absolutely the better choice for high detail prints
I have found that filament choice is very important when using micro nozzles. I've done a lot of testing with a 0.15mm nozzle. My best results have been using natural color filaments. I suspect these work better because they do not have the added solids found in the dyes. Most my micro nozzle printing was done with natural ABS. Printer, Lulzbot Kittaz. Original testing with 2.85mm filament before changing over to a 1.75mm hotend.
I second that. I had issues with micro nozzles constantly clogging with pla that printed just fine with a .4 mm nozzle until I switched to natural pla. Most people should probably switch to .6mm nozzles anyways though, faster printing and I have yet to have it clog up even with wood filament.
@@hello81642 Filament manufacturers often offer a natural color option. I assume these filaments do not have the dyes and fillers that colored filaments have.
@@JefeInquisidorGOW exactly. It's such a good idea, the only other idea could be a nozzle that can change the opening during prints. Surely that's possible
@@Jordamson actually if you move the nozzle faster the extrusion width would be smaller (because fluid physics). You don't even need anything mechanical to achieve that.
I’ve found 0.2 nozzle to be such a pain and like you show requires slower print speed that I found playing with flowrate/extrusion width can achieve very similar results with a 0.4 nozzle in less time. Also I don’t like resin printing either. I love it when you show the insides of these nozzles. I learn a lot from your approach.
I use a 0.2 nozzle probably just as often as a 0.4, and I am tempted to get a prusa xl with 5 nozzles just so I can keep 2 of them permanently at 0.2... It does take a lot longer time, but the quality and.. uhm.. "resolution" is a lot better, so it's totally worth it.
“Resin 3D Printing isn’t for everyone” hey hey hey… watch it there 🤣😂🤘 Amazing video as usual! I’ve only ever gone up in nozzle size on fdm not down. Pretty wild to see the .1 in action.
I have made some great tiny parts on my mk3s with a 0.15mm nozzle, however I rarely use it due to how long prints take, and that 0.4mm is usually good enough for my application. If I printed tiny parts on a regular basis I would buy a resin printer and save my fdm machine time for larger prints.
Well, for prints that size resin printing is probably still the better choice. Mechanical properties are not that relevant in those dimensions I guess. I like resin printing for the reasons being extremely fast and giving isotropic properties. I hope someday someone will a invent a cheap light based 3d printing system for thermoplastic materials which combines the advantages of both worlds. (Or a UV resin which gives you a thermoplastic material a the end.)
I'd love to see what you could do with that Toolchanger and the micronozzle. Could you print the infill and inner walls with a large nozzle, and the outer wall with a micronozzle, for the best of both worlds?
@@roseroserose588 Yeah, you would likely need to run the smaller nozzle near it's upper limit and the larger at it's lower. Those the range of layer sizes you can successfully get at a given nozzle size is quite a bit more than one might think. I think .15 and .3 might be a better mix though.
@@kaseyboles30 I think it's theoretically possible to get a slicer to interleave multiple layer heights, since I've done that before by adjusting g-code with a script. (It was for thicker infill layers, to reduce print time. I recommend z-hop and low travel speed if you try this.) Here's the thing. Even without a tool changer, you can print wider than normal lines from any given nozzle. EG an 0.2 nozzle can print up to 0.4mm wide. There is a video on this channel about it actually! It would seem to be even better with a tool changer, because we get an even bigger range of widths to choose from. (Eg 0.1mm for detail and 0.8mm for bulk fill) However, I think such an extreme difference in width would only really be helpfull for solid parts that require high surface detail. (Geometry and layer height issues) For a difference of 2x or less, you can just use a signle nozzle and adjust the exterior line width in just about any slicer. Tool changers are still awesome though. If nothing else, it means not needing to swap the nozzle every few prints.
As someone who owns an Anycubic Photon Zero, I 100% agree with you about resin printing. I literally haven’t used it in years, and I currently don’t even own a working FFF printer.
2:16 🤩 superb quality. 0.1 nozzle is a little bit of a overkill. Would be cool to use the toolchanger with 0.4 nozzle and 0.1 one for extra details where needed in the same model.
Ooooh, I'd love to push fdm deep into sla territory, but I just think they service really different markets right now? The sbility to print useful functional small parts is really nice. We did Molex MicroFit connectors, and tiny buy useful 0.25mm module gears - all of it WORKED?! There’s a lot of potential down here, and folkts are likely to be surprised.
Don’t print with carbon/glass where the vendor doesn’t have an ASSURED fiber-length of around 0.5xNozzle-Dia - or any particle (fibre/ball/rock etc), for the matter. So for a 0.250um nozzle, I would be very careful about printing any filament more than than 100-125um in length or so, . So would really like to see what can be done in the near and more accessible to the everyman range. We did some amazing things with something technically thought of as the pinnacle, a thermoplastic-god, of near the whole ‘thermoplastic types’, I can’t help but feel that is an ability to crank out parts that are going way beyond the what is a big step ahead. And we just gotta use that which is already hard worn knowledge in thermoplastic industrial land!
@@SanjayMortimer Nozzle temps are climbing too, how long before we print soft metals? The new 308L filament is amazing and can be printed at home and post processed at their facility. ~$485/ 3lbs, but includes 1 pound of post processing. And how much longer before we can DIY? Build your 1st rocket engine or micro turbine at home. Unique fitting for a Yacht, or a propeller or chassis for a model. Endless possibilities.
I've printed at .01 layer height several times. I think there is one holding up my couch right now as my brother and I accidentally broke that leg. The print time was awful, but there was a curve that was 1.5 inches wide and less than a quarter inch high. The ridiculous layer height made that curve look beautiful and smooth. Most people don't even notice it because of it's design. The other legs have wheels, but this one just has a curvy stump. At that time, I only had a .4 nozzle and it was like 74 (I think) hours with ABS. I always had trouble with that specific roll of GizmoDorks, but it worked great on that print. With larger layer heights, it kept stripping the filament and just became a melted blob if I raised the temperature. And now for an unhealthy dose of rambling: I avoided them afterwards until I need their bone white (best filament I have ever used in terms of printablilty, reliability, and surface finish). I've use nearly a dozen spools of the bone whites and all were perfect. No clue why, but it doesn't show layer lines and has a matte finish regardless of temperature. I've even printed large flat curves and .3 usually looks quite comparable to .1. If anyone knows why it has such a matte finish, I would love to know. The parts I make with it last just as long as others, so strength is not affected.
Really good video Stefan. I'm so please they turned out well and thank you for the shout out. With a 0.1mm nozzle you are basically printing with controlled nozzle ooze, PolyMaker PolyMax is a great starting point for anyone else wanting to try out small nozzle FDM printing - even if you are using a 0.25mm nozzle the PolyMax PLA range works so much better than normal PLA's and gives strong usable parts, most other PLA's I tried just break when trying to use the parts. (I made 35% sized Lego bricks out of PolyMax PLA and they work well over and over again). Some ABS filaments can also give good results with micro-tiny printing, but be careful how long they sit in the hot-end as Stefan mentioned the heat-creep problem. The results are worth the wait for FDM especially if you really don't like dealing with SLA resins as mentioned.
Considering its already being run on a Toolchanger, what would be the process to have a print sliced so the .1mm nozzle is only used for the outermost shell of a print and a regular 0.4mm for the rest? (or any combo of small nozzle in one toolhead for detail, and a bigger one for the brunt of the material)
Theoretically possible. I tried it with my toolchanger but ran into issues with the slicer not liking changing extrusion width that much leading to slicing artifacts. This was with superslicer a while ago I tried, certainly a solvable problem though if someone dug into the code.
@@JohnMeacham For this to really be useful, you'd need to print outer walls before inner walls, and you'd also need to use different layer heights for the two nozzles, which means the outer walls will have no support from inner walls, meaning you get worse overhangs.
I have also been to Japan in 2014 & again in 2017, and I will say that Japan really earned a special place in my heart just based on the people, their culture and their absolute attention to detail and function. I will trust these nozzles far more than any other cheap part from ebay or aliexpress.
I have micro nozzles at my disposal down to 0.2 but haven't used them yet. I simply can't justify a resin printer because i live in a constrained space and would have no way to separate myself from the fumes and for sure will use my FDM when the need for something small and detailed arises. I have tried nickel plating a nozzle recently (self made nickel citrate) and it actually improved the surface finish, seems like. I only have cheap nozzles. After an hour at 100mA, It seems to have constrained the size of the nozzle from 0.4mm down to about 0.38mm. I think i can use that fact to constrain existing cheap nozzles if i care a little. There is another option for micro printing which solves the radiant heat issue: nozzles with an airbrush tip. E3D style nozzle top, which an airbrush nozzle screws into from the bottom. You can buy them inexpensively. They were invented by René Jurack i think, also the developer of the small precision DICE FDM printer. Airbrush nozzles are available between 0.1 and 0.5mm in size. The airbrush tip is made from stainless and radiates little heat, and gives you some distance between the hot brass and alu parts and the print.
i did this with a trianglelab .1 nozzle 25% benchy came out great and only took a hourish it funny when i show even people that have 3d printers a pic of it sitting on a dime
I've been printing with a 0.2mm nozzle on my Ender 3. Took me a not insignificant amount of time to get all the setting working well, but the part resolution is so nice.
I've printed with 0.15mm nozzles on my old machine, in my experience it looked a lot like you need higher gear ratio on the extruder. When printing those small parts I used a QR extruder from Bondtech and a 100:1 planetary nema17. It was printed on a Velleman K8200 :D I dont have the parts longer, but the benchy was 15% scale and looked prestine :)
This is fascinating to me for a couple reasons: 1) I did minis for a bit and don't like resin... so I saw stuff like E3D's 0.15mm nozzle but lacked steppers with high enough resolution to do anything with them. I got one but it sits in it's box as I hear Sanjay's laundry list of challenges play through my head (heard them in person from ERRF 2019). 2) 3D printing started as "can we make this work at good enough quality/speed/size?" but aside from enterprise craziness (like Joel's videos), consumer printers have stagnated... and I feel a lot of what is needed to go further is a combo of hardware and software... (lead into point 3) 3) It identifies the problem points in existing systems: gearing, cooling design, software hard-limits, motion system limitations, etc. and gives a chance to fix them 4) Finally, it starts the feedback loop that IMHO seems to be discussed more then applied in 3D printing: improve, push bounds, find limitations, repeat. How many 3D printers are just rehashes of existing designs? Another Chitu system. Another i3 clone. The community seems restless... and then stuff like Voron makes a splash and does great... but seems to get speed better... but doesn't seem to address cooling or make input-shaping standard (it's optional but recommended for Vorons from what I read). Without continuing down that tangent, doing stuff like "how do I print really small" and hitting software limits, material limits, even conceptional limits of "is this really worth it or is a different tech better?" opens the question of "ok, what needs to get fixed?" to continue the loop instead of just making yet another system that is the same as the prior. One day... but awesome video.
WOW the comparison using the lengths of filament is pretty crazy! 6mm for a whole dang benchy!!! Gorgeous prints, but of course the expected issues. Engineering is amazing really! Nice video!
The heat creep on the hemera is almost nothing. I had a jam caused by a fan failure so I had to reheat the nozzle to clear the throat. It was impressive. Even with no fan running it took quite a lot to get the heat to move. The throat was plugged just above the heatsink interface. You can also switch to the titanium throat which all but eliminates the heat transfer/creep.
I was waiting for that kind of nozzles for some time: well made and precise. I have to say, I totally agree with your approach to 3D resin printing. I'd get one long time ago but I really dislike the waste amount, smell and danger related to using these materials. I might try this nozzle! Great video!
I have decided i hate resin printing for the exact reasons you state here. I still use it because I want the minis to print and game with. It was tempting to try this nozzle but your comparison was spot on and I'll keep using the setup I have for resin. Thanks for the detailed and entertaining review!
it would be cool to see you revisit this option as part of a tool changing system to see if having different size nozzles would effect the printing of precise parts and their overall strength.
Ever since I bought my resin printer I haven't used my fdm printer. It's just soo good. It's way faster and far more detailed. I have gotten my workflow to the point where I can remove the parts, clean them and cure them within 20 minutes.
This video is perfect timing, I was just about to start scaling down some little cogs I designed to try with nozzles below 0.4. If the cheap ones don't work I'll know where to go 🙂
It should be possible for someone to code in some options there. Just don't know how dependent PS is on those settings staying locked down for it's calculations to generate the g-code.
Yeah, that's unfortunate though I guess the developers are fighting a constant battle between usability and customizability. Maybe SuperSlicer might be an option here.
Man, that is some *seriously* nice craftsmanship! I honestly think I'll stick with my MSLA for the super-tiny stuff, but I'm now really tempted to get just some .4s from these folks just because they're so darn nicely made.
I did some amazing mini figures a few years ago on FDM using a .2 nozzle with PLA and a .4 nozzle with PVA for supports. Not something I would want to do again though, as setting up the printer to get that done was way more work then I want to do for a hobby.
Incredible. Great presentation as always, many thanks to you for creating such amazing content. Plus props to the nozzle manufacturer for creating something so impressive.
In our studio I have some printers dedicated for certain tasks… an ender 3 (for example) with some light mods is dedicated to a 0.2 nozzle for small detailed parts on some of products that a .4 nozzle would never be able to resolve… it has worked very reliably, the hardest part is getting the first layer just right.
Did you have any luck with resin gears? Mine are always have rough teeth - maybe something anti-aliasing could fix, but definitely something a laser resin printer could solve, I think.
@@projecthivemind3239 I planned to get a resin printer to try but other people beat me to the end goal… a replacement POM gear for TurboGrafx-CD and PC Engine CD-ROM² drives. Now I can’t justify a resin printer just yet but I still have ~10 FDM types. :) Wish I could help.
All I wish for is easier changimg of nozzles on fdm prints. I hate heating up the nozzle every time and screwing/unscrewing the hot nozzle, especially hate how it's not exactly precise on my prusa mini, leave a small gap isn't calming.
11:32 If you get a wash and cure station that eliminates not only a lot of the hassle but also a lot of the waste. For many prints you don't even need gloves if you're careful. Though they should always be nearby and a sink too, just in case. Personally I don't notice any smell from most resins, with the exception of Siraya Tech Blu and the My Mini Factory resin. They both smell very unpleasant but still don't cause me any breathing problems.
I tried 0.25mm on my Prusa Mini. It works well, just takes ages to print anything not tiny. One time I wished I had a smaller one when printing replacement plastic gears for a broken paper laminating machine. Few grams of plastic saved the machine from being thrown away but even with 0.25mm nozzle the tooth geometry was barely functional. I am not sure if there is a resin that would be structural enough but printing this in ASA seems to have worked.
I really appreciate the insights here. I am in the process of designing a very small printer that will run at very high speed specifically for printing with small nozzles at small layer height.
I wish you compared it to 0.2mm and all that too! I wonder how it'd work in combination with a 0.6mm nozzle for other stuff (infill and inner perimeter)
Stephan, *don't* use the adhesion spray inside the machine! The spray goes everywhere and will accumulate on the rails, along with dust - acting as an abrasive and damaging the surfaces over time. Don't be lazy, take the bed surface out and spray it there, never inside the machine. BTW, any tips (which extruder/hotend are workable?) on upgrading a common consumer printer like a Prusa or Ender to a 3mm filament? I have ton of this filament because of my Mendel90 machine.
I've used a copper plated 0.25mm nozzle from e3d before. Using default prusa profiles I didn't have much problems at all. I've used it for some small mechanical parts and some small figurines but it rarely gets used. I find myself mostly printing with my 0.8mm nozzle.
I've used my .25 copper nozzles for mini's before. No clogging with them like I had when I tried the .2 nozzles that came in the same package. Not that I had many with the .2's either. I suspect the better heat characteristics of copper over brass might have helped. Though they do of course wear much faster that brass for not a huge improvement in thermals which is why brass is the go-to for most general purpose nozzles.
Reducing nozzle size is a great way to gradually reduce the weight of 3d printed parts. First printing with 0.4mm nozzle then going with 0.3mm then going 0.25 and i keep doing this until the part is not strong enough to resist the loads. Then i am keeping the part printed with the smallest nozzle diameter that didn't break, this is how i reduced the weight of my 3d printed plane by almost 40%, going from 0.44mm layers to 0.28mm
I'm able to print acceptable miniatures on my tronxy x1 with a 0.2mm nozzle. After a spraying with a good filling primer the layer lines are almost imperceptible and invisible after painting.
For resin printing, I just pull the part out without removing the build plate and use water washable resin. I also put a carbon filter inside the printer. Helps a ton with controlling the mess and makes it almost as easy as FDM.
Regarding resin printing. I purchased a UV flashlight, and when I remove the parts from the printer, I cure them immediately with the flashlight (being sure to not aim the flashlight at the build plate if it has any resin on it). If I have to wipe up resin with a paper towel, I immediately hit it with the UV flashlight. Nothing is sticky any more. Give it a try!
I had great luck with 0.3mm nozzles, the quality increase was noticeable and it wasn't a terrible increase to print times.. any smaller and the inconsistencies of cheap printer and parts were too much of a headache. awesome to see it done right though
I printed at 0.1 a while back. The biggest thing was that I used stepper motors that were 0.9 degrees per step instead of the usual 1.8 degrees. But I was never able to print a benchy tnat small. 25% normal size was the best I got.I also had to increase the nozzle temp quite high to ensure no blockage happened.
This video is fantastic! Its crazy were fdm printing is getting. And in that light you should check out Polymakers lightweight PRE foamed PLA! It is around 65% the weight stiffer than other lightweight PLAs and can be printed with the exact same g code as normal PLA! It would be super interesting to see its properties under your stress tests! Maybe a new champion for strength to weight?
It's the fact that the motion system of the printer, which only consists of relatively low-cost components, can achieve the precision movements for the 10% benchy that blows my mind.
I had a great time printing out tiny tanks from the Bergman collection with tiny nozzles like this. Once I get back to model railroading, I'll probably try a bunch of N scale stuff. I didn't fool with the settings much, so thanks for the temperature hints!
Good and very interesting video. Although not a fan of SLA 3d printers they are irreplaceable when it comes to transparent objects, flexible materials, small objects and details. Surely it's unpleasent, but magnetic plate, wash & cure station and few more tools made SLA printing much more convenient.
Would a thinner diameter filament and matching extruder be better suited to fine nozzles? I would imagine there would be a sweet spot for the ratio of filament diameter to nozzle size.
Funnily enough I've been super interested in using tiny nozzles for 3d printing. I bought a huge pack of assorted nozzles off Amazon for 10-15$ I think it was. Now I know why the smallest I could get to work isn't just because of my Bowden setup, but because I got something super cheap! Either way considering my applications for the tiny nozzle diameter is essentially just for prototyping, and since I've only had a couple of models that could take full advantage of them I'll stick to .3 as the smallest for a while.
@@squidcaps4308 I've used a .25 copper nozzle I got with a fairly cheap mixed sizes set off of amazon on a nearly stock ender 3 pro with decent success.
This was an awesome video, and i know it wasn't your intention but i agree with the problems ive had with the process of SLA.. And a failed print in SLA sucks more than fdm.. Tempted to sell my SLA and just buy another fdm with a smaller nozzle for detail... Maybe not that small tho lol Well done! Happy to see you were able to get such a crazy small print!
Since supports seem to be an issue in most slicers at that size, I wonder if you could almost generate supports at full size, export the gcode, and apply a postprocessing script to edit the gcode (coordinates, etc.) itself afterwards to scale everything down. Obviously many factors would have to be changed in the gcode (positioning, speed, extrusion lengths, etc.) but maybe that could work?
I have used cheap .2 mm nozzles with almost no issues, haven't gone smaller than that and I don't use them often as I don't need the extra detail they provide. I also agree the the supports that Prusa Slicer generates are pretty terrible especially if you use large or small nozzles, Slic3r never had that issue. I wish they didn't decide to skip layers on the support material, or at least give the option synchronize the support layers with the object without forcing you to have a 0mm contact Z distance.
I just connected a .1 nozzle and was attempting to determine a K factor through Marlin's Linear Advance Factor page. Clogged it. I figured this would be a challenge but I should had looked at some videos first. Easier than unclogging my hot end.
I highly recommend the 0.2mm nozzle from Micro Swiss. I get extraordinary quality and detail on my small parts. Just use for small parts as time-to-print will skyrocket!
Im curious how well it would work when using a tool changer. Can they hold the accuracy needed to use a larger nozzle for infills and the smaller for the details?
I actually got one of these in a big pack of assorted nozzles. (not this brand obviously) I did not bother trying to get it working with my printer lol The .2mm nozzles were slow enough for me already.
Danke Stefan, I'm struggling with precision printing of gears with my Prusa Mk3S+ using a .4mm nozzle... this or a .2 mm nozzle seems like a great approach to improve the quality of my gears. Cheers!
I just ordered myself 3 trianglelab nozzles. As a complete noob in printing (yes, i've yet to figure out how to setup my firmware lol) I print great with 0.4, but ordered 0.3, 0.2 and 0.1 nozzles from ali, and will test how they fare on my E3D V6 hotend and trianglelab dual drive extruder.
I actually have 0.15 nozzles since quite a long time now, yet never gave them a try... mostly because of what you explained here. I guess 0.2 would be the absolute minimum I'd try at some point, just for fun, keeping 0.25-0.3 as the bare minimum for detailed prints for a regular use.
If you get the g code with supports for a larger print designed for 0.4 mm nozzles, couldn't you go into the firmware and trick the printer into running the axis like they are geared. Essentialy scaling down the movements to match the nozzle size.
Great video! I once got a 0.1 mm nozzle in a cheap Chinese variety pack...unsurprisingly, it never worked. I have, however, had relatively good success with 0.2 mm nozzles in printing things like miniatures - it does take some work to get it dialed in, and I think it's one of the few things that my modified Ender 3 does far better than my Artillery Sidewinder X1, but until I finally make the jump to resin 0.2 mm is more than sufficient for my needs.
the pre an post processing for the resin printers was what really got me, it always took more time in the slicer for the resin printer an the clean up. i love the finish tho but i only use my resin printers for stuff thats really small with alot of detail or if its something i just have trouble with on my fdm printers due to thin walls like small fan ducts always come out looking cleaner for me on the resin over my fdm, but for anything structural fdm is my go too an thats what ive found myself print way more of lately over stuff like miniatures or busts.
In my Monoprice I go up to 240-250°C for PLA... I get shock when you said that you're able to print at 180°C... In my chase as more liquid its the plastic better it flows
I think the smallest I'd go is 0.2mm for a close to precise part, as my prints are all metric measurements and 0.2mm goes well in whole metric numbers for example 0.2mm x 5 = 1mm.
![BLACK BAG - Official Trailer [HD] - Only in Theaters March 14](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Du0Xp8WX_7I/mqdefault.jpg)
I feel like most of the people who would say "why not just use a resin printer if you want high detail?" probably haven't used a resin printer
They're not that tough to use, but they do have a learning curve much steeper than that of FDM printers!
99% of the difficulty is realizing that all the tricks you learned for FDM printing don't apply to SLA
or maybe understand how to print in resin without so much crying. I don't understand how he generated so much garbage for a few prints. they could all go on the same bed, it was 1 run. He clearly also wasn't using a mono. Honestly if you do have a resin printer and know how to use one it is much better, faster, cheaper and more reliable and less fiddly than messing around with a .1mm FDM nozzle and waiting 30h for something that looks worse than what you get out of a resin printer in 10 minutes. I could have run off the same comparison prints and had the waste of 1 pair of disposable gloves. I mean, he doesn't even have a wash and cure station! It's like saying FDM printing isn't worth it and all you have is an M3D micro as an example.
my point was more that resin printing is more hands-on and not the same as FDM, not that resin is worse somehow
resin is absolutely the better choice for high detail prints
Resin SLA sounds great, provided one has the resources. As best I understand it, an FDM machine can run safely in many more environments.
My first printer was a resin printer and I’ve had it for 2 years, and have made 2 things with it… 😬
I have found that filament choice is very important when using micro nozzles. I've done a lot of testing with a 0.15mm nozzle. My best results have been using natural color filaments. I suspect these work better because they do not have the added solids found in the dyes. Most my micro nozzle printing was done with natural ABS. Printer, Lulzbot Kittaz. Original testing with 2.85mm filament before changing over to a 1.75mm hotend.
I second that. I had issues with micro nozzles constantly clogging with pla that printed just fine with a .4 mm nozzle until I switched to natural pla. Most people should probably switch to .6mm nozzles anyways though, faster printing and I have yet to have it clog up even with wood filament.
And how do you know what the natural color is for the material?
@@hello81642 Filament manufacturers often offer a natural color option. I assume these filaments do not have the dyes and fillers that colored filaments have.
How about printing a "multi material" print, where you use a 0,4mm for the whole structure and a 0,1mm for the details only?
I love this idea. It's when interswapable hotends mid prints come in, I remember seeing a video about it
That's what I thought, you can even step up on nozzle size for even faster printing without losing detail
@@JefeInquisidorGOW exactly. It's such a good idea, the only other idea could be a nozzle that can change the opening during prints. Surely that's possible
@@Jordamson actually if you move the nozzle faster the extrusion width would be smaller (because fluid physics). You don't even need anything mechanical to achieve that.
@@FlameRat_YehLon I've used that before but it isn't near as accurate as using a 0.2mm nozzle or likewise
I’ve found 0.2 nozzle to be such a pain and like you show requires slower print speed that I found playing with flowrate/extrusion width can achieve very similar results with a 0.4 nozzle in less time. Also I don’t like resin printing either.
I love it when you show the insides of these nozzles. I learn a lot from your approach.
Your cura tutorials are extremely helpful
i like how i learned this much in three sentences
I use a 0.2 nozzle probably just as often as a 0.4, and I am tempted to get a prusa xl with 5 nozzles just so I can keep 2 of them permanently at 0.2... It does take a lot longer time, but the quality and.. uhm.. "resolution" is a lot better, so it's totally worth it.
how small width can you go with a 0.4 nozzle?
@@AFAndersen Yep, 0.2mm nozzles are great for small parts with fine details.
I never really had problems using them.
“Resin 3D Printing isn’t for everyone” hey hey hey… watch it there 🤣😂🤘
Amazing video as usual! I’ve only ever gone up in nozzle size on fdm not down. Pretty wild to see the .1 in action.
3d printing fdm is only worth printing brackets resin is the way forward
@@markwilliams5654 Sure if brackets are the only load bearing parts you need.
I think he needs to watch some of your videos.
Chose your poison: Micro Nozzle FDM printing OR messy resin printing?
I’d like to try micro FDM printing some time. How the hell do you clean a nozzle that small?!
Resin all the way
I have made some great tiny parts on my mk3s with a 0.15mm nozzle, however I rarely use it due to how long prints take, and that 0.4mm is usually good enough for my application. If I printed tiny parts on a regular basis I would buy a resin printer and save my fdm machine time for larger prints.
Well, for prints that size resin printing is probably still the better choice. Mechanical properties are not that relevant in those dimensions I guess.
I like resin printing for the reasons being extremely fast and giving isotropic properties.
I hope someday someone will a invent a cheap light based 3d printing system for thermoplastic materials which combines the advantages of both worlds. (Or a UV resin which gives you a thermoplastic material a the end.)
Micro nozzle fdm on my desk.
I'd love to see what you could do with that Toolchanger and the micronozzle. Could you print the infill and inner walls with a large nozzle, and the outer wall with a micronozzle, for the best of both worlds?
You can probably print 0.3 walls with that same nozzle though, judging by the size of the flat part.
Sure but you would need one toll. Change per lywe
that would be cool to try, not sure if you might run into issues with matching layer heights with the big nozzle
@@roseroserose588 Yeah, you would likely need to run the smaller nozzle near it's upper limit and the larger at it's lower. Those the range of layer sizes you can successfully get at a given nozzle size is quite a bit more than one might think. I think .15 and .3 might be a better mix though.
@@kaseyboles30 I think it's theoretically possible to get a slicer to interleave multiple layer heights, since I've done that before by adjusting g-code with a script. (It was for thicker infill layers, to reduce print time. I recommend z-hop and low travel speed if you try this.)
Here's the thing. Even without a tool changer, you can print wider than normal lines from any given nozzle. EG an 0.2 nozzle can print up to 0.4mm wide. There is a video on this channel about it actually!
It would seem to be even better with a tool changer, because we get an even bigger range of widths to choose from. (Eg 0.1mm for detail and 0.8mm for bulk fill)
However, I think such an extreme difference in width would only really be helpfull for solid parts that require high surface detail. (Geometry and layer height issues)
For a difference of 2x or less, you can just use a signle nozzle and adjust the exterior line width in just about any slicer.
Tool changers are still awesome though. If nothing else, it means not needing to swap the nozzle every few prints.
The "chatter" was from your own milling. Most call it a burring edge.
As someone who owns an Anycubic Photon Zero, I 100% agree with you about resin printing. I literally haven’t used it in years, and I currently don’t even own a working FFF printer.
2:16 🤩 superb quality. 0.1 nozzle is a little bit of a overkill. Would be cool to use the toolchanger with 0.4 nozzle and 0.1 one for extra details where needed in the same model.
Ooooh, I'd love to push fdm deep into sla territory, but I just think they service really different markets right now? The sbility to print useful functional small parts is really nice. We did Molex MicroFit connectors, and tiny buy useful 0.25mm module gears - all of it WORKED?! There’s a lot of potential down here, and folkts are likely to be surprised.
Don’t print with carbon/glass where the vendor doesn’t have an ASSURED fiber-length of around 0.5xNozzle-Dia - or any particle (fibre/ball/rock etc), for the matter. So for a 0.250um nozzle, I would be very careful about printing any filament more than than 100-125um in length or so, . So would really like to see what can be done in the near and more accessible to the everyman range. We did some amazing things with something technically thought of as the pinnacle, a thermoplastic-god, of near the whole ‘thermoplastic types’, I can’t help but feel that is an ability to crank out parts that are going way beyond the what is a big step ahead. And we just gotta use that which is already hard worn knowledge in thermoplastic industrial land!
@@SanjayMortimer Nozzle temps are climbing too, how long before we print soft metals? The new 308L filament is amazing and can be printed at home and post processed at their facility. ~$485/ 3lbs, but includes 1 pound of post processing. And how much longer before we can DIY? Build your 1st rocket engine or micro turbine at home. Unique fitting for a Yacht, or a propeller or chassis for a model. Endless possibilities.
@@bryanst.martin7134 Or one could just 3D print a new lawn mower cylinder head instead of having to order it and wait for weeks!
I've printed at .01 layer height several times. I think there is one holding up my couch right now as my brother and I accidentally broke that leg. The print time was awful, but there was a curve that was 1.5 inches wide and less than a quarter inch high. The ridiculous layer height made that curve look beautiful and smooth. Most people don't even notice it because of it's design. The other legs have wheels, but this one just has a curvy stump. At that time, I only had a .4 nozzle and it was like 74 (I think) hours with ABS. I always had trouble with that specific roll of GizmoDorks, but it worked great on that print. With larger layer heights, it kept stripping the filament and just became a melted blob if I raised the temperature.
And now for an unhealthy dose of rambling: I avoided them afterwards until I need their bone white (best filament I have ever used in terms of printablilty, reliability, and surface finish). I've use nearly a dozen spools of the bone whites and all were perfect. No clue why, but it doesn't show layer lines and has a matte finish regardless of temperature. I've even printed large flat curves and .3 usually looks quite comparable to .1. If anyone knows why it has such a matte finish, I would love to know. The parts I make with it last just as long as others, so strength is not affected.
Really good video Stefan. I'm so please they turned out well and thank you for the shout out. With a 0.1mm nozzle you are basically printing with controlled nozzle ooze, PolyMaker PolyMax is a great starting point for anyone else wanting to try out small nozzle FDM printing - even if you are using a 0.25mm nozzle the PolyMax PLA range works so much better than normal PLA's and gives strong usable parts, most other PLA's I tried just break when trying to use the parts. (I made 35% sized Lego bricks out of PolyMax PLA and they work well over and over again).
Some ABS filaments can also give good results with micro-tiny printing, but be careful how long they sit in the hot-end as Stefan mentioned the heat-creep problem.
The results are worth the wait for FDM especially if you really don't like dealing with SLA resins as mentioned.
Considering its already being run on a Toolchanger, what would be the process to have a print sliced so the .1mm nozzle is only used for the outermost shell of a print and a regular 0.4mm for the rest?
(or any combo of small nozzle in one toolhead for detail, and a bigger one for the brunt of the material)
Theoretically possible. I tried it with my toolchanger but ran into issues with the slicer not liking changing extrusion width that much leading to slicing artifacts. This was with superslicer a while ago I tried, certainly a solvable problem though if someone dug into the code.
@@JohnMeacham For this to really be useful, you'd need to print outer walls before inner walls, and you'd also need to use different layer heights for the two nozzles, which means the outer walls will have no support from inner walls, meaning you get worse overhangs.
I have also been to Japan in 2014 & again in 2017, and I will say that Japan really earned a special place in my heart just based on the people, their culture and their absolute attention to detail and function. I will trust these nozzles far more than any other cheap part from ebay or aliexpress.
I have a 0.1 mm chinese nozzle and it's work pretty well for me
Just so you know, it looks like your print cooler is broken at the point where it screws onto the radial fan at 8:28 (top of the frame).
It has been for a long time, though still holds on some fibers 😁
@@CNCKitchen Haha, I had the same. It's amazing what a drop of ca glue can do for small parts like this! :)
@@CNCKitchen Do you have an etsy shop? Lol I'd love to have miniatures made that I can cast into a gamecube A button.
I have micro nozzles at my disposal down to 0.2 but haven't used them yet. I simply can't justify a resin printer because i live in a constrained space and would have no way to separate myself from the fumes and for sure will use my FDM when the need for something small and detailed arises.
I have tried nickel plating a nozzle recently (self made nickel citrate) and it actually improved the surface finish, seems like. I only have cheap nozzles. After an hour at 100mA, It seems to have constrained the size of the nozzle from 0.4mm down to about 0.38mm. I think i can use that fact to constrain existing cheap nozzles if i care a little.
There is another option for micro printing which solves the radiant heat issue: nozzles with an airbrush tip. E3D style nozzle top, which an airbrush nozzle screws into from the bottom. You can buy them inexpensively. They were invented by René Jurack i think, also the developer of the small precision DICE FDM printer. Airbrush nozzles are available between 0.1 and 0.5mm in size. The airbrush tip is made from stainless and radiates little heat, and gives you some distance between the hot brass and alu parts and the print.
Ooh I’ve never heard of airbrush tips, neat!
Awesome to read that about airbrush tips.
I, too, use airbrush nozzles with great success.
i did this with a trianglelab .1 nozzle 25% benchy came out great and only took a hourish it funny when i show even people that have 3d printers a pic of it sitting on a dime
I've been printing with a 0.2mm nozzle on my Ender 3. Took me a not insignificant amount of time to get all the setting working well, but the part resolution is so nice.
I'm looking to do this too.
Any advice as to which settings mostly need the work?
@@TradeTravelTroopy you'll probably need to bump up your first layer flow significantly on order to get the first layer to stock
I've printed with 0.15mm nozzles on my old machine, in my experience it looked a lot like you need higher gear ratio on the extruder.
When printing those small parts I used a QR extruder from Bondtech and a 100:1 planetary nema17.
It was printed on a Velleman K8200 :D
I dont have the parts longer, but the benchy was 15% scale and looked prestine :)
This is fascinating to me for a couple reasons:
1) I did minis for a bit and don't like resin... so I saw stuff like E3D's 0.15mm nozzle but lacked steppers with high enough resolution to do anything with them. I got one but it sits in it's box as I hear Sanjay's laundry list of challenges play through my head (heard them in person from ERRF 2019).
2) 3D printing started as "can we make this work at good enough quality/speed/size?" but aside from enterprise craziness (like Joel's videos), consumer printers have stagnated... and I feel a lot of what is needed to go further is a combo of hardware and software... (lead into point 3)
3) It identifies the problem points in existing systems: gearing, cooling design, software hard-limits, motion system limitations, etc. and gives a chance to fix them
4) Finally, it starts the feedback loop that IMHO seems to be discussed more then applied in 3D printing: improve, push bounds, find limitations, repeat. How many 3D printers are just rehashes of existing designs? Another Chitu system. Another i3 clone. The community seems restless... and then stuff like Voron makes a splash and does great... but seems to get speed better... but doesn't seem to address cooling or make input-shaping standard (it's optional but recommended for Vorons from what I read). Without continuing down that tangent, doing stuff like "how do I print really small" and hitting software limits, material limits, even conceptional limits of "is this really worth it or is a different tech better?" opens the question of "ok, what needs to get fixed?" to continue the loop instead of just making yet another system that is the same as the prior.
One day... but awesome video.
I got cold chills down my spine when you startet milling through 50 bucks. 😱😅
WOW the comparison using the lengths of filament is pretty crazy! 6mm for a whole dang benchy!!! Gorgeous prints, but of course the expected issues. Engineering is amazing really! Nice video!
the macro shots are absolutely gorgeous, this are very beautifully made nozzles
The heat creep on the hemera is almost nothing. I had a jam caused by a fan failure so I had to reheat the nozzle to clear the throat. It was impressive. Even with no fan running it took quite a lot to get the heat to move. The throat was plugged just above the heatsink interface.
You can also switch to the titanium throat which all but eliminates the heat transfer/creep.
I was waiting for that kind of nozzles for some time: well made and precise.
I have to say, I totally agree with your approach to 3D resin printing. I'd get one long time ago but I really dislike the waste amount, smell and danger related to using these materials.
I might try this nozzle! Great video!
I have decided i hate resin printing for the exact reasons you state here. I still use it because I want the minis to print and game with. It was tempting to try this nozzle but your comparison was spot on and I'll keep using the setup I have for resin. Thanks for the detailed and entertaining review!
@12:41 Would multi-nozzle printing with this tip be possible? Bigger tip for bulk, and 0.1mm tip for fine surface details?
it would be cool to see you revisit this option as part of a tool changing system to see if having different size nozzles would effect the printing of precise parts and their overall strength.
Nice, I've used a 0.2mm nozzle a bunch at a 0.1 layer height and gotten some near resin results.... But THIS is next level. :D
Ever since I bought my resin printer I haven't used my fdm printer. It's just soo good. It's way faster and far more detailed. I have gotten my workflow to the point where I can remove the parts, clean them and cure them within 20 minutes.
This video is perfect timing, I was just about to start scaling down some little cogs I designed to try with nozzles below 0.4. If the cheap ones don't work I'll know where to go 🙂
Google knows everything.
Glad to see that you showed how limited Prusaslicer can be. So many locked down settings, especially around support structure generation.
True. I like Prussia slicer but sometimes you need that giant list of cura support settings
It should be possible for someone to code in some options there. Just don't know how dependent PS is on those settings staying locked down for it's calculations to generate the g-code.
Yeah, that's unfortunate though I guess the developers are fighting a constant battle between usability and customizability. Maybe SuperSlicer might be an option here.
@@CNCKitchen Superslicer has essentially the same support options right now.
Man, that is some *seriously* nice craftsmanship! I honestly think I'll stick with my MSLA for the super-tiny stuff, but I'm now really tempted to get just some .4s from these folks just because they're so darn nicely made.
I did some amazing mini figures a few years ago on FDM using a .2 nozzle with PLA and a .4 nozzle with PVA for supports. Not something I would want to do again though, as setting up the printer to get that done was way more work then I want to do for a hobby.
Choirboy
Incredible. Great presentation as always, many thanks to you for creating such amazing content. Plus props to the nozzle manufacturer for creating something so impressive.
the japanese always make such cool stuff
In our studio I have some printers dedicated for certain tasks… an ender 3 (for example) with some light mods is dedicated to a 0.2 nozzle for small detailed parts on some of products that a .4 nozzle would never be able to resolve… it has worked very reliably, the hardest part is getting the first layer just right.
The smallest layer I printed was 0.08mm with a 0.4mm nozzle. I was a Benchy scaled down to 20mm tall. It turned out great.
I made a moai statue with 0.05 mm layer height and it looked really cool
Seems useful for small gears that I once thought required resin printing.
Did you have any luck with resin gears? Mine are always have rough teeth - maybe something anti-aliasing could fix, but definitely something a laser resin printer could solve, I think.
@@projecthivemind3239 I planned to get a resin printer to try but other people beat me to the end goal… a replacement POM gear for TurboGrafx-CD and PC Engine CD-ROM² drives. Now I can’t justify a resin printer just yet but I still have ~10 FDM types. :) Wish I could help.
All I wish for is easier changimg of nozzles on fdm prints. I hate heating up the nozzle every time and screwing/unscrewing the hot nozzle, especially hate how it's not exactly precise on my prusa mini, leave a small gap isn't calming.
11:32 If you get a wash and cure station that eliminates not only a lot of the hassle but also a lot of the waste. For many prints you don't even need gloves if you're careful. Though they should always be nearby and a sink too, just in case. Personally I don't notice any smell from most resins, with the exception of Siraya Tech Blu and the My Mini Factory resin. They both smell very unpleasant but still don't cause me any breathing problems.
I tried 0.25mm on my Prusa Mini. It works well, just takes ages to print anything not tiny. One time I wished I had a smaller one when printing replacement plastic gears for a broken paper laminating machine. Few grams of plastic saved the machine from being thrown away but even with 0.25mm nozzle the tooth geometry was barely functional. I am not sure if there is a resin that would be structural enough but printing this in ASA seems to have worked.
I really appreciate the insights here.
I am in the process of designing a very small printer that will run at very high speed specifically for printing with small nozzles at small layer height.
I wish you compared it to 0.2mm and all that too!
I wonder how it'd work in combination with a 0.6mm nozzle for other stuff (infill and inner perimeter)
I don't like mess. this is a neat concept and a spectacular piece of precision hardware
Stephan, *don't* use the adhesion spray inside the machine! The spray goes everywhere and will accumulate on the rails, along with dust - acting as an abrasive and damaging the surfaces over time. Don't be lazy, take the bed surface out and spray it there, never inside the machine.
BTW, any tips (which extruder/hotend are workable?) on upgrading a common consumer printer like a Prusa or Ender to a 3mm filament? I have ton of this filament because of my Mendel90 machine.
recently got a nozzle kit with a 0.1mm noozle so glad to see this
Rare case where microplastics are the goal instead of the problem.
Stefan is my favorite nerd, gakking out over craft made nozzles (can't blame him, they are very pretty!).
Properly tuned small nozzles are HEAVILY underrated...
I've used a copper plated 0.25mm nozzle from e3d before. Using default prusa profiles I didn't have much problems at all. I've used it for some small mechanical parts and some small figurines but it rarely gets used.
I find myself mostly printing with my 0.8mm nozzle.
Now this just makes me want to make the smallest CoreXY printer that has ever existed!
Same!
I've used my .25 copper nozzles for mini's before. No clogging with them like I had when I tried the .2 nozzles that came in the same package. Not that I had many with the .2's either. I suspect the better heat characteristics of copper over brass might have helped. Though they do of course wear much faster that brass for not a huge improvement in thermals which is why brass is the go-to for most general purpose nozzles.
IDEX printer: 0.1 mm for outer layers, 0.4 mm for inner layers (or 0.6 mm).
I bought a 3d printer to tinker and prototype, never thought I would get sucked into this rabbit hole.
Reducing nozzle size is a great way to gradually reduce the weight of 3d printed parts.
First printing with 0.4mm nozzle then going with 0.3mm then going 0.25 and i keep doing this until the part is not strong enough to resist the loads.
Then i am keeping the part printed with the smallest nozzle diameter that didn't break, this is how i reduced the weight of my 3d printed plane by almost 40%, going from 0.44mm layers to 0.28mm
Every time I wonder why I didn't get a resin printer I see someone mention the smell and remember! xD
Thanks for the vid!
I'm able to print acceptable miniatures on my tronxy x1 with a 0.2mm nozzle. After a spraying with a good filling primer the layer lines are almost imperceptible and invisible after painting.
For resin printing, I just pull the part out without removing the build plate and use water washable resin. I also put a carbon filter inside the printer. Helps a ton with controlling the mess and makes it almost as easy as FDM.
Regarding resin printing. I purchased a UV flashlight, and when I remove the parts from the printer, I cure them immediately with the flashlight (being sure to not aim the flashlight at the build plate if it has any resin on it). If I have to wipe up resin with a paper towel, I immediately hit it with the UV flashlight. Nothing is sticky any more. Give it a try!
I had great luck with 0.3mm nozzles, the quality increase was noticeable and it wasn't a terrible increase to print times.. any smaller and the inconsistencies of cheap printer and parts were too much of a headache. awesome to see it done right though
Wow Stefan it’s a amazing!
My pleasure!
The chatter on the last part of the 0.15mm nozzle can and will increase the surface area creating a larger meltzone ;) physics is cool
I printed at 0.1 a while back. The biggest thing was that I used stepper motors that were 0.9 degrees per step instead of the usual 1.8 degrees. But I was never able to print a benchy tnat small. 25% normal size was the best I got.I also had to increase the nozzle temp quite high to ensure no blockage happened.
Would the precision of the Japanese .4 nozzle equate to better prints over most garden varieties of nozzles?
This video is fantastic! Its crazy were fdm printing is getting. And in that light you should check out Polymakers lightweight PRE foamed PLA! It is around 65% the weight stiffer than other lightweight PLAs and can be printed with the exact same g code as normal PLA! It would be super interesting to see its properties under your stress tests! Maybe a new champion for strength to weight?
It's the fact that the motion system of the printer, which only consists of relatively low-cost components, can achieve the precision movements for the 10% benchy that blows my mind.
I had a great time printing out tiny tanks from the Bergman collection with tiny nozzles like this. Once I get back to model railroading, I'll probably try a bunch of N scale stuff. I didn't fool with the settings much, so thanks for the temperature hints!
Good and very interesting video. Although not a fan of SLA 3d printers they are irreplaceable when it comes to transparent objects, flexible materials, small objects and details. Surely it's unpleasent, but magnetic plate, wash & cure station and few more tools made SLA printing much more convenient.
How about printing minis that come with modelled in supports for resin?
I have a couple .2 mm nozzles. They worked great for what I used them for. Takes forever though.
Reducing the temperatures to 180 and 35c probably dramatically reduces the operating costs
Would a thinner diameter filament and matching extruder be better suited to fine nozzles? I would imagine there would be a sweet spot for the ratio of filament diameter to nozzle size.
Don't know why but good packaging on deliveries still impresses the hell out of me. Guess I'm a cheap date. :)
Funnily enough I've been super interested in using tiny nozzles for 3d printing. I bought a huge pack of assorted nozzles off Amazon for 10-15$ I think it was. Now I know why the smallest I could get to work isn't just because of my Bowden setup, but because I got something super cheap! Either way considering my applications for the tiny nozzle diameter is essentially just for prototyping, and since I've only had a couple of models that could take full advantage of them I'll stick to .3 as the smallest for a while.
Try 0.24 if you can get one.
@@squidcaps4308 fun idea, got a good website to get one from?
@@squidcaps4308 I've used a .25 copper nozzle I got with a fairly cheap mixed sizes set off of amazon on a nearly stock ender 3 pro with decent success.
What if you use a double extruder setup with a big nozzle for the infill and a tiny one for the surface?
This was an awesome video, and i know it wasn't your intention but i agree with the problems ive had with the process of SLA.. And a failed print in SLA sucks more than fdm.. Tempted to sell my SLA and just buy another fdm with a smaller nozzle for detail... Maybe not that small tho lol
Well done! Happy to see you were able to get such a crazy small print!
Since supports seem to be an issue in most slicers at that size, I wonder if you could almost generate supports at full size, export the gcode, and apply a postprocessing script to edit the gcode (coordinates, etc.) itself afterwards to scale everything down. Obviously many factors would have to be changed in the gcode (positioning, speed, extrusion lengths, etc.) but maybe that could work?
I have used cheap .2 mm nozzles with almost no issues, haven't gone smaller than that and I don't use them often as I don't need the extra detail they provide. I also agree the the supports that Prusa Slicer generates are pretty terrible especially if you use large or small nozzles, Slic3r never had that issue. I wish they didn't decide to skip layers on the support material, or at least give the option synchronize the support layers with the object without forcing you to have a 0mm contact Z distance.
I just connected a .1 nozzle and was attempting to determine a K factor through Marlin's Linear Advance Factor page. Clogged it.
I figured this would be a challenge but I should had looked at some videos first. Easier than unclogging my hot end.
I highly recommend the 0.2mm nozzle from Micro Swiss.
I get extraordinary quality and detail on my small parts.
Just use for small parts as time-to-print will skyrocket!
i just bought a pack of mixed size nozzles .2 .4 .6 and .8 to try out. what a timing XD
i don’t even own a 3D printer, i just find amusing to watch. One day maybe
Im curious how well it would work when using a tool changer. Can they hold the accuracy needed to use a larger nozzle for infills and the smaller for the details?
I actually got one of these in a big pack of assorted nozzles. (not this brand obviously)
I did not bother trying to get it working with my printer lol
The .2mm nozzles were slow enough for me already.
I’ve been debating getting a nozzle like this for a bit and this video will probably tell me if I should lol
I'm using a 0.25 nozzle for a while now and had no issues whatsoever, not a single clog using PLA.
0.1 is quite another level though...
Hasn't E3D .15 mm nozzles been available for years?
Danke Stefan, I'm struggling with precision printing of gears with my Prusa Mk3S+ using a .4mm nozzle... this or a .2 mm nozzle seems like a great approach to improve the quality of my gears. Cheers!
I just ordered myself 3 trianglelab nozzles. As a complete noob in printing (yes, i've yet to figure out how to setup my firmware lol) I print great with 0.4, but ordered 0.3, 0.2 and 0.1 nozzles from ali, and will test how they fare on my E3D V6 hotend and trianglelab dual drive extruder.
has anyone used the air brush tip nozzles? I can't find a video with it. basically it extends the tip making it easier to reach in printing parts
I actually have 0.15 nozzles since quite a long time now, yet never gave them a try... mostly because of what you explained here. I guess 0.2 would be the absolute minimum I'd try at some point, just for fun, keeping 0.25-0.3 as the bare minimum for detailed prints for a regular use.
If you get the g code with supports for a larger print designed for 0.4 mm nozzles, couldn't you go into the firmware and trick the printer into running the axis like they are geared. Essentialy scaling down the movements to match the nozzle size.
Great video! I once got a 0.1 mm nozzle in a cheap Chinese variety pack...unsurprisingly, it never worked. I have, however, had relatively good success with 0.2 mm nozzles in printing things like miniatures - it does take some work to get it dialed in, and I think it's one of the few things that my modified Ender 3 does far better than my Artillery Sidewinder X1, but until I finally make the jump to resin 0.2 mm is more than sufficient for my needs.
the pre an post processing for the resin printers was what really got me, it always took more time in the slicer for the resin printer an the clean up. i love the finish tho but i only use my resin printers for stuff thats really small with alot of detail or if its something i just have trouble with on my fdm printers due to thin walls like small fan ducts always come out looking cleaner for me on the resin over my fdm, but for anything structural fdm is my go too an thats what ive found myself print way more of lately over stuff like miniatures or busts.
In my Monoprice I go up to 240-250°C for PLA... I get shock when you said that you're able to print at 180°C... In my chase as more liquid its the plastic better it flows
Knowledge, the master of the universe.
I think the smallest I'd go is 0.2mm for a close to precise part, as my prints are all metric measurements and 0.2mm goes well in whole metric numbers for example 0.2mm x 5 = 1mm.
Really enjoy watching your channel. So many interesting things you show and explain. So stoked seeing what this nozzle can do. Peace out CNC Kitchen.