DIY Booster for CHT Nozzles | 3D Print Even Faster
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- Опубликовано: 23 июл 2024
- 3D Printers are getting faster and the CHT nozzle can only get so long before its effects taper off, and typical nozzles have to be extremely long to get the same effect, making them more expensive, and harder to support and compensate for pressure advance. Here's one solution, and instructions to make it.
All tests were run on a 0.4mm knockoff CHT nozzle with Elegoo Hyper PLA. Later tests with larger nozzles may come.
My 3D Printer has gotten fast enough that a volcano hotend won't cut it. A CHT nozzle helped, but even running hot it wasn't enough. I needed a more efficient nozzle. The original idea came to me in December 2022, and the first prototype came mid 2023.
Printables: www.printables.com/model/5993...
Original Video: • A Novel 3D Printer Hot...
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Referenced Videos:
www.cnckitchen.com/blog/nozzl...
• FLSUN's New S1 is twic...
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Background Music
Energetic Rock Beat: pixabay.com/music/beats-energ...
Namaster Trip - Ofshane: From RUclips's Audio Library
Chapters:
0:00 Intro
1:10 Prep the bolt
4:05 Cut Slots
5:29 Possible Configurations
7:17 Curl Testing
7:49 Flow Testing
8:22 Future Pressure Advance
8:40 Conclusion 
Наука
This part screams wire EDM. Prototype in brass
My thoughts exactly, just a pilot hole in center, but then you kinda need a EDM with a tilting XY axis instead of panning.. I haven't even seen one of those before.. is that a thing?
@@Roobotics they call them "4D", each wire guide has X and Y motion controlled by CNC. Pretty common option AFAIK
@@cest7343 Very interesting, I've seen lots of 4th and 5th axis CNC stuff, but never an EDM that can skew it's tilt mid-cut to make faces that aren't parallel, IMO they're often just used like glorified Styrofoam cutters in that sense, so I'll have to check those out.
@@cest7343 Makes me wonder if that could be done with the new Powercore II machine. It's like $1500, so I won't have one any time soon lol but maybe someone else will!
Sinker EDM is much easier to set up, and could just use his existing 3D printer with a brass shim used for the cutter, and an RC adapter on a lab power supply is very cheap.
Call it the Xylem ® nozzle
Xylem is the plant tissue through which water and nutrients are pumped up from the roots
@@polycrystallinecandy That's clever! Gonna save that one on the list for voting
Very cool. Keep us updated on next steps. I love that you're finding ways to do this inexpensively too.
Nice work! There's still a lot of room for innovation in 3D printing, can't wait to see what'll happen when you get your hands on an EDM...
@@bobgarrish Thank you! Lol maybe I should set up a fundraiser: Buy me a Powercore EDM Pretty Please? 😆 But seriously, working on a way to make that money back if I buy one!
that's an amazing improvement and design. keep up the great work and thanks for sharing. the presentation of the video itself was also top notch. well paced and engaging. I look forward to what you do next.
@@mirag3304 Thanks! I'm glad you enjoyed it!
Thank you for sharing! I can't wait to try this.
@@how_we_love No problem! I'd love to see it when you make it!
I would like to see a test with the cht spacer with a cht nozzle compared to a standard volcano cht nozzle. This video is great tho!
@@educationalpurposesmostly I’m hoping I can do it eventually, but $30 is a lot to drop on a nozzle… but once I do, I’ll do knockoff cht volcano vs authentic vs knockoff with a spacer. And I’ll stack the booster with each to see what difference it makes, *and* I’ll test with the new cht meltzone extender you can buy on Aliexpress. My thought is that it will be fairly useless when added to the authentic cht, maybe even decrease flow, but we’ll see!
Excellent work!
@@stefanguiton thank you!
this is a work for Wire EDM, I guess nobody uses that due to the cost.
With wire EDM you can put like 100 fins in that extender.
Edit: Did the CAD drawing, my 100 fins estimate was too much, could fit like 18 fins that could be reasonably manufactured.
@@onurcetinkaya4873 I dream of having EDM. The angled fins and cone make it even harder, since it would have to be at least 4 axis to get them right. But I've wondered if sinker EDM would work with a shaped bit coming in from the bottom and a cone from the top. Have you heard of Powercore?
@@aaamott Yes I did hear powercore, even bought some parts to make something similar, but couldn't start it yet :D
You don't need 4 axis EDM for this shape, you can first make the cone with a traditional lathe with a tapered drill bit, then put the fins with 2-axis EDM.
At such small scale, sinker EDM might be more economical, but sinker tool also need to be cut from copper with EDM and that would be expensive and fragile, if nozzle is made from aluminum maybe sink tool can last like 50-100 times, if the nozzle material would be copper it can last 1 time at most.
I did make some CAD drawings and it is possible to put like 18 fins with 0.18 mm wire EDM, which increases the surface area like 6 times compared to a regular nozzle. Fins on my design will also be very fragile I suppose.
@@onurcetinkaya4873 Dang! if I manage to justify the cost with a way to make the money back... That would be great if the Powercore could be used to make these!
@aaamott I don't think this violates the CHT patent either.
3d Printing community needs this kind of high performance adapter. if you can make them that would sell.
If I can make them, I will write to you.
Perhaps not Wire Edm, but an EDM press could work fine for mass manufacturing here. Saves you the hassle on threading the wire in and out of every workpiece.
Very nice demo and proto. Looks like you could benefit from some tool upgrades! Keep up the good work!
@@fritzgutten1 Agreed! I've considered making a lathe, but what I really hope to get is the Powercore EDM. And thanks!
This is incredible
@@dhivan Thank you!
Quite impressive.
Thank you!
Pretty cool, what bearings/bushings are you running on the carbon fiber rods?
Would also like to know
@@fintechrepairshop PETG printed bearings at first, now brass bushings. I'm planning to do a video on that later because I feel like most people don't share the full experience or pitfalls. The bushings give me more friction than the PETG. If I could find LM12UU solid bearings I'd try those. There are a lot of potential issues if you don't get the spacing just right, but once you do it works pretty well. Also, sanding the rods from 12.2mm to 12mm to fit the brass bushings made friction way worse. I figured it was worth the rods to experiment and share.
@@riba2233 in case you don't get notified, see my previous comment ;)
@@aaamott thanks, y0u are a true chad :)
Can you please share the step file for the CAD of the spacer? Would like to get it manufactured/review and improve the design to my needs. Thanks in advance!
Edit: see you have the 3mf file on printables. You should call it XHT (Xternal Heating Technology)
@@arthurlobo8953 glad you found it! I'll add the step file as well by tomorrow morning.
@@arthurlobo8953 Also, I like the name! I'll add it to the list for voting!
new name: X, formerly known as twitter
@@uiopuiop3472 Beautiful. Melts filament faster than confidence.
Cruxiforming Nozzle.
If you want to have the bore in the true middle you only have to reverse. Clamp the object in the drilling machin and clamp the drill. That way it's self centering.
@@michaeleitel7186 that's a great idea! Maybe I can find a chuck to clamp the drill bit to the bed...
@@aaamott nope, you have to SPIN the part you are drilling and clamp the drill bit FIXED to the bed/vise
This way the drill bit makes a hole around the rotational axis of the object
Gute Idee. Musste aber die Video Geschwindigkeit auf 0,75 Einstellen😂
@@peterzehentner8287 Haha, ich werde versuchen, das nächste Mal etwas langsamer zu reden 😅
High speed pla is bad at bridging anyway, pla + at higher temperatures get you the same speed but with bridges that work.
I've got 51mms ( with some skipped E steps) out of a Kobra 2 hot end that's slightly modified to use v5 style nozzles and heatbreaks. I later upgraded the heating block and heater to a lower mass one with ceramic heater. 260c for that flow rate and it came out nice with flow test.
I set my limit to 35mm³s in slicer though since I don't print over 230mms most of the time.
For that flow rate I use 235c and bump it up to 245 for 300mms.
@@freedomofmotion I'll have to try some PLA+. I just ordered some! I also got some new yellow Rapid PLA and got another 10% flow. Not sure what that's all about, so I kept current results. I'll test PLA+ and different temps next update, with a manufactured booster and I'll try to toss in a bigger nozzle!
@@aaamott Oh yes I should point out I was using a 0.6mm nozzle for that flow rate.0.4mm might of been lower.
Put thermal paster around nozzle and heater then get 15% increase in flow.
@@VolkanTaninmis Maybe eventually I'll get some boron nitride paste...
@@aaamott just use thermal grizzly
@@VolkanTaninmis didn't know it could go that hot! Thanks for the suggestion!
also what software did you use for the charts?
@@nathan22211 Just excel! And the white text that appears afterward I added in KDEnlive
bruh don't cut toward your hand with that saw
@@nathan22211 absolutely normally wouldn't, but these blades are so fragile I was more concerned about a snapped blade stabbing me in the hand, which was a common thing in my high school jewelery class years ago. But I did buy a tiny desk vice for it after the first prototype!
That's was a bit scary to watch😂
Dont wanna get bloody cut towards your buddy or away from you. Also im pretty sure the bit you showed is a security bit.
@@Mikehatespigs Good call! I ordered a little vice to avoid this problem. The blade is suuuuper fragile and I've seen a number of people stab themselves when it breaks, which was my main concern. Any pressure and it snaps.
I'll check for that size security but! Thanks!
@@aaamott there different types and sizes harbor freight has a cheap case of security bits well not expensive and it had some x shaped bits
Call it the “X-Flow” or the “Cross Flow”
@@Brocknoviatch Cross Flow makes me think of CrossFit lol I like it!
Xtruder hehe
@@maxthorax13II I like it haha
Xtrusion
looks like a JIS bit
@@aguccislide6132 I thought the same at first, but the face is flat...
@@aaamottoh! i just took another look. it’s actually an iphone standoff bit!
Dude, like your video, but please, don`t drill anything near your display.
@@Rupertcreations lol I've moved the display. Same worries!
Bit is probably JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard)
Not even close
@@lezc3733 I thought the same thing at first, but the face is completely flat... Maybe a JIS bit would work to screw it in though!
Really nice work! We'd love to offer you some 3d printing parts or PCBs if you might need them in the upcoming content. (PCBWayDaisy) :)
saw your vid and project on hackaday. excellent idea, good work given the tools you had. I'm impressed at the improvement!
@@arklanuthoslin Thank you!