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What Is A Bozzle Nozzle?
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- Опубликовано: 20 янв 2023
- Find out more or purchase the Bozzle Nozzle here: (Price is in CAD)
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In today's video we dive into the Bozzle Nozzle. A full tungsten carbide nozzle with a very unique internal geometry to provide higher flow. We will cover how it prints, what my flow rate results where like and my overall thoughts on this nozzle.
Vez3d's video on the Bozzle Nozzle:
• The Bozzle Nozzle
Stephan's Flow Test:
github.com/CNCKitchen/Extrusi...
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this is literally the perfect balance between the diamond/ruby nozzles and cht nozzles. feels like the perfect tool for carbon petg. would love to get my hands on one at some point, as id love to switch over to a material with the balance of printability and strength/rigidity/heat deflection specs like that as my daily driver material.
I have been running the Diamondback nozzles for a bit and have been quite happy with them. However, I still much prefer a full TC nozzle as I feel the life expectancy will be much longer with one continuous alloy versus an insert. Also the added flow is a definite plus.
Why would you print in carbon fiber filled PETG? It's not even stronger...
Try the Deez nozzle from West3D. It's basically the exact same :)
@@coltenmeredith8899 I wish they were in stock
@@substratum3d Me too...Something else you can get is Phaetus tungsten carbide nozzle. It's not high flow, but it's pretty good (I haven't bought it, so I can't really say I guess)
You forgot the biggest advantage over steel: The higher lubricity. Much lower chance of clogs with fiber filaments. Really cool, although unless I need to print over 300C I would probably go with the diamondback. But it is good to support small companies.
I have been running a Dyze design tungsten nozzle for years on all my machines. I love them so much and have never had a clog.
Thank you for covering this. Not many people seem to know about this nozzle.
I bought one a couple of months ago because I was concerned there was going to be a patent fight that could see it disappear. Good to know their splitter hole pattern isn’t covered by the 3DSolex patent.
I haven’t put it on yet. I’m still using a CHT on a Dragonfly BMO and haven’t needed to print any abrasive materials on that printer so far. Your video gives me new impetus to put it on and start playing.
I have been interested in this nozzle for some time. I had originally seen Vez make a high level overview of the nozzle but aside from that I did not see much info out there other than in Discord. Glad I was able to shine some light on it.
Due to its price it definitely isnt the nozzle for everyone but for those wanting a high quality nozzle for pushing abrasives with increased flow it is a solid option. When you end up installing it let me know your thoughts after some time.
The funny part is that knockoff bozzles seem to work better.
@okleydokley I don't think there are bozzle knockoffs out there man. If they do exist I need proof it's a clone of the bozzle and not a cht
At higher flow rates, you can definitely run into limitations based upon the extruder. Hotend isn't always the bottleneck.
Thank you for sharing info on this nozzle. I've been looking at the Undertaker nozzle (from West3D) for a while. It is solid tungsten carbide, without the cht type feature, for ~$50.
Hotend is a bottleneck. Higher flow hotend will allow for the extruder to work less. Everything works together
@@wyattutz I agree. gotta have a good extruder.
This test seems relative. Put .5 nozzle on X machine, compare to bozzle. That's it.... if you need to use a different extruder that means that the nozzle has more back pressure than the standard .5 nozzle.
Best nozzle! Been on my printers since a long time
Did you purchase them or were they sent to you?
@@timmturner sent to me for testing and review
A few years ago I machined a pair for myself, thought about producing these, but the price in comparison to hardend steel nozzles would have been like the factor of 8.
So I ditched it, glad I can buy some now, if one of my nozzles ever wears out.
Love my bozzle nozzle! Have blow torched the thing a couple of times to clear out gunk. And the WC has withstood several kg of PCCF without showing any signs of wear, while still outputting at crazy flow rates!
What hotend are you running the bozzle in? I’ve been having trouble with mine coming loose and wondering if I need a different hotend.
@@apocalypticangell make sure you're hot tightening! if you're still having issues, contact your vendor for help.
I have had 0.6 Prima Creator hardened steel nozzles on 3 of my printers for over two years for 16 hrs per day 5 days per week printing Nylon CF and PETG CF and they are still going strong, I get excellent quality prints from them so see no need to change as I cant see a reason to!
This is the first time I have ever heard of those nozzles. I will definitely have to check them out :)
Hardened steel has very poor thermal properties and is probably not what you want for printing at any decent speed.
@@daliasprints9798 Works fine for me
@@AndrewAHayes What flow? 25+ mm³/s?
great information as usual!
Thank you! It is a super interesting nozzle. I will put many many more print hours on it once I finish my cw2 upgrade.
Finally someone came out with it...
looking good!
I've been using West3D's Undertaker nozzles for the last few months and it's a great balance between never needing to change out your nozzle again, no temp drop like hardened steel, and about the same flow as brass.
I had issues with my clockwork 1 extruder skipping so I ended up swapping it out for an orbiter 2.0 and it fixed that problem.
Polymaker pla is really nice and I use it a lot for projects but I have experienced a lot of trouble printing as fast with it as other pla. Even at very high temps I cant print it as fast as say inland pla+ which can print at least as fast as my printer is capable of printing.
I have one and I'm really happy with it! Also no one mentions, but despite the complex geometry it's way easier than other nozzles to do cold pulls. Also with this nozzle I have been able to reduce quite a bit pressure advance and smooth time!
I had someone ask about cold pulls so this is great to hear :)
Which hotend do you have your bozzle in and have you had any trouble with it coming loose? Mine won’t stay in my v6.
@@apocalypticangell I'm using it on a Mosquito Magnum and it's firmly in place. Since it's extremely hard if you overtighten it it will deform the threads on softer materials like aluminum. Maybe you can try to use some boron nitride to keep it in place. Or maybe you can get a new block, probably you can get a clone block in copper for quite cheap (Trianglelab should be good, others like Mellow use a softer copper alloy)
@@apocalypticangell On Northprint's website it says you have to buy their adapter for the V6 to work, it's listed as "Volcano Adapter"
@@apocalypticangell I use a creality spider hot end and no issues.
The bozzle is definitely tempting, that's for sure.
Love it! A lifetime nozzle 👍 How smooth is the bore?
The price is high but you may not need any other nozzle. Looks promising!
consider the time saved from messing with worn nozzles
Thank you. As those nozzles are cheaper than diamondbacks Ill be happy to try them out :D
Wish I had a 3d printer but this was still strangely interesting. Subbed!
That's how it starts.. :: scratches neck::
Feel lucky you don't have one. Once you have one, your free time will be consumed.
@@alejandroperez5368 Indeed, yet the ability to create almost any object is somewhat magical.
Spool 3D also has tungsten carbide nozzles for many hotends with nozzle diameter options.
I do not recommend tc nozzles from Spool3D. The orifice is way off center. In some cases it's impossible to insert the filament.
Seems perfect for the Dragonfly. I'm always worried I'm going to bend that little throat part when swapping nozzles.
I use Dyze tungsten carbide nozzles. The only issue I've had was glow in the dark filament with the .4 clogged. All the other sizes have worked great though.
Yes you need 0.6 for many of the filaments with additives like woog filament.
Good stuff
Fantastic video, thank you! Any idea how the flow compares to the CHT nozzles?
I don’t have first hand experience with the CHT but based on their claims of “at least an increase of 30%” and CNC kitchens tests I would say they have higher output. The trade off will be abrasion resistant. I did see they released a bi metal version but it doesn’t look as structurally solid as the bozzle due to it not being made from one alloy.
For me, bozzle flow is somewhere between 0.4 CHT flow and 15% above that, almost enough to go same spatial speed even with the wider extrusions, but not quite. You can see it in action in some of my videos.
I really like the sharp, abrupt tip on this one. I bet it prints PETG much better than most nozzles because there's not a whole lot of surface area for the petg to stick too and slide up the side of the nozzle. I use a diamondback and i don't think it's great for petg for this very reason.
Better yet this video put me onto another place to buy 3d printer parts in my home country !
Diamonback nozzle is my go to now. Love them.
Diamondback you can't torch clean and you can't print hotter than ~300c
Daniel... you re-ran you tests on the Ender 5 Pro with the Microswiss NG extruder based on the manufacturer's recommendation related to tensioning. However you also changed another variable... the filament. Since changing two variables at once doesn't let you determine with certainty that the tensioning was the only impact on the first test, did you ever end up testing on the Ender 5 Pro with the original filament?
I did not. Although I was quite confident that the filament was not the issue I wanted to essentially start with a clean slate when I switched printers. I did use the .5 brass vs .5 bozzle with the new filament on the NG to make sure they had the same test environment but I did not go back tot he original filament. Based on what I saw on the CW1 I do feel it was the extruder and not the filament but this is something to keep in mind for future testing. Thank you for the feedback.
I was wondering when we’d see tungsten carbide nozzles 😂. Very surprised we haven’t sooner. But I still feel that diamond is possibly sliiiiiightly better because of its thermal conductivity
I feel these really need to come down in price to truly compete with diamond/ruby nozzles
I think one of the best benefits is layer adhesion with this nozzle. Any better luck printing materials that crack (abs)? I also wonder if there is less curling / warping since the center of the extruded material should more uniform when compared to the ends. What are your experiences?
Why would anyone still print with ABS? There are stronger better options that do not toxic off gas.
@@truantray It is cheap and can be smoothed with acetone.
@@truantray what materials would those be? ASA still has vocs
Great to see your experience with the bozzle! Have you had any trouble with the nozzle coming loose in your hotend? After 1 or maybe 2 small prints, the bozzle has been coming loose in my v6 and leaking. I just ordered a rapido to see if that works any better. :/
Did you hot tighten the nozzle at a temperature above your printing temp?
You need to install with Boron Nitride paste and hot tighten Bozzle.
I’ve done both of those things, but it still comes loose.
If the block is aluminum replace it with a copper plated one. I could never get it to tighten properly with the aluminum block and ended up stripping the threads since it's so soft. The copper block I've never had an issue with and it's tightened up perfectly.
Very thorough to repeat the flow tests. It seems this nozzle geometry offers greater surface area to quickly melt the filament core at high flow rates, reducing resistance at the nozzle tip. However, this geometry is more restrictive at the throat, especially at low nozzle temperatures.
It's the same with the clone cht nozzles. Since both dont feature any knife like edges at the start of the split/geometry change they work better in longer hotends where the material is already soft before it reaches that point.
Wish and comparison was made with the bi metal CHT. I don’t have the resources to buy both and test
I have not had the chance to test out any of the CHT line. If Bondtech reached out I would love to test them. If there is enough demand I am happy to order one as well. From what I am seeing I anticipate the flow of the CHT is higher. I just do not believe they are as hardy as a straight up tungsten carbide nozzle.
@@ModBotArmy I also recently bought a Deez nozzle from west3D which is a TC nozzle with internal fins, very similar to the bozzle but due to poor manufacturing tolerances it had to be recalled as it actually hindered the flow rate.
There are also 100% TC volcano nozzles available, for much lower price, without any special geometry. I have one I want to test, but I need to make some toolhead adaptations before I can.
Where? I'd rather run a long 0.6 TC so I can still run TPU without the CHT feature, and have the longer melt zone to get the max flow up for everything else.
@@black99rt Mine is from A3DP.
Do you know how the Bozzle nozzle performs with Petg? I print with mostly e3d NozzleX hardened steel nozzles and though they do a great job, the Pet loves to stick to the steel. I wonder how Pet would work with Tungsten Carbide?
Once I get the stealthburner up and running I will run some petg through it and see how it performs 😊
I have some people saying it doesn't stick, while other people say it sticks, so seems like "it depends"
Q: will the bozzle shatter a glass bed if it digs in by mistake?
Time someone had a look at higher flow filaments like the one Geeetech makes.
Really interested to know if the X internal shape affects cold-pulls.
It should affect cold pulls, you can still do cold pulls on a CHT which has a crazier geometry
Not at all. It cleans easy.
I wonder how many regular old brass nozzles I would have to wear out to amount to a hundred bucks???? A quick calculation comes up with about 225 at inflated Amazon prices. How long does it take you to wear out 225 brass nozzles? Just curious.
I don't know why I have always cheaped out on the nozzle like it's probably the most important part
If it makes you feel any better I did as well for years. I would just buy the cheapest pack with decent reviews on Amazon. It is really hit or miss though. You can get at least good quality nozzles $15-20 from a reputable manufacture.
@@ModBotArmy honestly I've not been able to tell the difference between €0.10 and €30 nozzles in print quality alone. Max flow rate and wear resistance was all i could differentiatie the nozzles between
@@twanheijkoop6753 I would get random fat lines. I always thought the high end nozzles just lasted longer. And I was just like I'm ok getting cheap and replacing instead of cleaning.
First time I hear about this nozzle, I was thinking about getting a tungsten carbide one from phaetus for about half the price of this one, but i'm not sure how much worse (if at all) it will be compared to brass. For non abrasives I got a huge selection of aliexpress cht knockoffs which perform just as well as my original cht.
TC has very good thermal conductivity so I dont anticipate it being worse. Even in my testing with the CW1 the difference was very small when it was less than the brass. However, if you are only occasionally printing with abrasives it is likely overkill.
@@ModBotArmy I only print rarely and use the slice engineering vanadium, I just want a tungsten carbide because it's so damn sexy! (Yes, I know, I have a problem).
as far i know phaetus uses a Sleeve design, wich is imo inferior to a fully sintered TC nozzle.
They use a Thin TC tube that is inserted into a either Copper or Toolsteel nozzle
@@superbrain3848 I contacted 3dprima directly with the same question a few months back. My question was:
"Is this nozzle made out of pure tungsten carbide, or is it made out of two pieces of different materials joined together?"
and their reply was:
"It is made out of Tungsten Carbide, nothing else.
Mikael
3D Prima"
@@christoskaragiannis7973 looks like they changed the design since the last time ive looked at them.
Any plans to do a comparison with CHT Bimetal?
There's no 0.5mm chat bimetal sadly, so can't do a fair comparison
Seems like it's discontinued. Any alternatives on the market? This checked all the boxes I need.
If it moves the tip of the nozzle down the part air flow may be impacted
That’s is a great point. You would need to lower the shrouds.
I’m a machinist and I’m shocked that the bozzle nozzle is only $99cad. I can’t imagine how it’s that inexpensive
Besides abrasive drilling/grinding, cobalt-cemented tungsten carbide can be EDMed, albeit slowly. Also its powder could be cemented to near-net shape.
I feel like if you're able to 3d print metal this wouldn't be that hard to make, though I'm not sure how small metal 3d prints can be
Agreed, not a good application for 3D printed SLS metal.
A rougher surface finish means inconsistent flow and a higher chance of clogs.
Brass nozzles are a part of the reason why otherwise food safe materials cannot be made food safe through 3d printing. Does tungsten circumvent this? Could be pretty big for the 3d printing industry if that were so. I'm getting into 3d printing to manufacture parts for my aquaponics system, and thus far I have to epoxy everything I make. Waiting for the day when both nozzles and materials can easily be food / fish safe.
Honestly, if you're printing for food-safe, I'd just use stainless even though it sucks thermally.
I'd like to do some looking though, you have a good point. Maybe it's fine.
CW1 has higher torque than CW2, so it's unlikely results would change much. Maybe the amperage setting isn't high enough or something?
Very nice vid! I have been waiting for a hardened version of the CHT nozzle so that you can get high flow and also print abrasives. This looks like a great option! A bit pricey at $75 US, so I will probably wait for a high quality clone. Also, on the tensioner.. I have had similar issues before on stock Voron extruders. I really like the LGX lite for that reason, because there is just a simple lever- it's either tensioned or not, there is no in between. Bondtech recently released a Stealthburner mount for them also, so it might be a nice upgrade!
I have an lgx light in a box haha I have been meaning to upgrade a v0. I love the one on RatRig. So far the cw2 seems to be performing better. I haven’t re ran flow tests yet but I definitely will. 😊
Yay, let's not support the creator and buy clones!
That's how you get people to stop innovating and making new cool stuff.
Don't buy clones.
You should have put a counter in the corner every time you said bozzle
Is there a 0.4mm?
Currently it is only available in 0.5mm
My questions is: are they machined, or are are they cast tungsten carbide. 🤔
I'm wondering if that plays a factor in their durability too since cast tungsten carbide inserts for lathes are notoriously fragile - dropping them by mistake is a big no no 😂
Almost certainly sintered ii.e. cast that how carbide insert tooling is made.
I dropped mine once onto concrete and thankfully it was fine
I have a feeling that higher surface area for melting may not be enough to offset the additional friction for most uses. It also makes clearing a clog more difficult with cleaning filament or cold pulls.
cold pulls work fine!
Nice but at $99 it's out of reach for most 3D printer who do this as a fun hobby. I purchase the harden steel nozzles off Amazon and get like a few for about $15 that seem to last forever and work well with most abrasive filaments that cause wear and tear. I really wish this could be kept in mind when they make these nozzles. I mean the most popular printers are the cheapest printers like the Ender 3 at less than $200. While this helps us in the long run and China has a tendency to make cheap clones that work well enough for us budget friendly 3D printers.
Thanks for mentioning the cheaper options....I didn't realize the video wasn't at the end...paused it too soon to get some work done. LOL
Once you start printing GF filaments, you'll start eating through those cheap (and also not cheap) steel nozzles pretty quickly. At that point, these carbide nozzles start making a lot more sense once you factor in your time troubleshooting, swapping nozzles, and failed prints.
bit of a shame on 0.5mm orifice. I mainly print 0.4 and often go to 0.2 for the x and Y details (Not the z detail, which is layer height) that are totally impossible with 0.4 and bigger.
I would love to own a high end nozzle like this one day but my biggest fear is somehow the g-code will glitch and make the nozzle hit the bed lol. Would hate to waste 100 dollars like that.
You're probably not ruining a TC nozzle. The bed plate on the other hand....
this won't ruin the nozzle! it will ruin the bed plate tho
Is it just me or does the X axis on your printer in the background look uneven ?
Maybe I'm hanging my tongue out the wrong way lol
Best to not crossthread one of these nozzles or you can buy a new heater block as well. 😅
I mean if you struggle getting tungsten, depleted uranium is lighter and cheaper 😂
They’d be a fool if they made the overall length different than an MK8 model
why? v6 nozzles are more popular.
$80 for a nozzle, that's a tough sell.
Why oh why do 3d printing youtubers not understand that "mk" is pronounced "mark?" We don't say "em-arr," we say "mister." We don't say "dee-arr," we say "doctor." So why is it so difficult to say "mark" instead of "em-kay?"
We do understand. However we have a pact to trigger as many as possible by pronouncing it incorrectly. It appears to be working.
@@ModBotArmy I knew it! I knew it was all a conspiracy! You're all out to get me!
Clearly I need to start a radio show and run for President. :D
There's really no reason to ever use brass nozzles. Generic tool steel or hardened steel nozzles aren't expensive, and hardened nozzles last forever if you're just printing standard filaments like PLA and ABS/ASA.
Better thermal characteristics for brass but having said that the Bambulabs P1P comes with stainless steel and handles everything very well.
You can buy 1kg of tungsten on amazon for less than 200 bucks and that's retail price.
200/1000 = 0.2€ per gram * 36g = 7.2€ per nozzle.
That's doesn't account for machining and logistics, but I think 100€ for this is crazy no matter what
lol, this guy.
Manufacturing something out of a material this hard is very difficult/expensive.
@@daliasprints9798 yeah i agree that's why i said it doesn't take machining or logistics in consideration. If you know a way to estimate the machining cost i'm curious to know more, but I doubt it takes even half of the final price if you can find a steel nozzle for 20/30€
Tungsten is cheaper than tungsten carbide... Which is what this nozzle is. That's why you can find tungsten nozzles for cheap but not TC.
Dude, do you know what they make cutting tools out of? Tungsten Carbide. Do you realize how hard it is to work TC, and at a relatively low volume?
Anyone giving $100 for a nozzle should not be trusted with the finances lol. You are the marketing teams dream customer but hey your benchy will look great
If you have the money, why not?
If you print for money, it's a nonissue.
And for some people this nozzle costs less than 2 spools of filament
This nozzle cost the half of my 3d printer 😅
I just use stainless steel on everything, works fine
$100 LMAO
For $100 it better also clean my kitchen
I have seen them go for $75 but yeah cleaning kitchens wasn’t in the features 🤷♂️
$99, nope.
Bit late for a review
How so? There is very little info out there.
Where's your review?
first time i've seen it. not all of us subscribe to every printing channel out there. some of them are more entertaining than others.
Yea and good luck ever getting one! They are NEVER in stock.... EVER!
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Try the Deez nozzle from West3D. It's basically the exact same :)