The big rappelling tutorial - all you need to know!
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- Опубликовано: 1 май 2024
- Rappelling is another essential skill when you're out in the wilderness and a fantastic gateway to moving on steep terrain. This rappelling tutorial will show how to set up a rappel and build an anchor. We'll go over rappelling gear, safe and robust procedures, and the best approach to rappelling in any condition.
Knots, Rope and Cordage - Playlist
• Playlist
I have been asked about my gear, so here you go:
ATC-Guide Rappelling device: amzn.to/3EzyHH0
Carabiner: amzn.to/3YYfxCE
Ball Lock Carabiner: amzn.to/3KxIKzW
Gloves: amzn.to/3IpPVHN
0:00 - Intro
0:59 - Rappelling with a GriGri / Full Auto Device
3:12 - Rappeling a Tube / Semi Auto Device
5:06 - The directly connected Tube
6:12 - Backing up the Tube
07:18 - Extended Tube Set-up
11:39 - Setting up a Bealy - Single Rope
13:28 - Double Rope Belay
19:51 - The Rappeling Process
24:13 . Closing Gratitude
You should not put the prusik on your leg as when you go unconscious your torso and arms will drop and your legs will raise and you body will be put in a horizontal position!
This could place the prusik a lot closer to your descending device.
It looks like you have substantial distance but newbies might not take this into account.
Yes, that’s good input, especially with a heavy backpack. The prusik should be so far away from the tube that especially when you go unconscious there is no way that it reaches the tube. Let me pin your comment so that this is clear to everyone. Thanks!
Thanks mate..🤔🤓🧐😘😊☺️
If you go unconscious this will matter little. Try hanging relaxed in a harness, your legs are not going up. Using the leg loop is simple, fast and convenient for everyday rapells. The extended version is nice for multiple, planned rapells. Either one is fine.
The best way and industry standard is to extend the rappel device like you did and attach your prusik to the belay loop... in the usa
right, it has to got in the belay loop period.
I usually like to use low friction mode on the ATC when rappelling with two strands. Also, I often tie the rope ends together with an overhand instead of tying individual stoppers knots.
Low friction mode is of course always a possibility. I’m not a huge friend of tying the rope ends together because I feel the rope gets caught more often. But it of course depends on the climb - as long as there is some sort of knot at the end of the rope, everything is fine.
I find if I tie the ropes together the rope will twist and loop making a tangle, however if I use separate stopper knots the rope is free so the loops tangles fall out
This is such a great video man!! Thank you for your time🤘
Hey Dylan, thanks a lot, I really appreciate it!
The best rappelling tutorial I've seen, by far. Thank you for the awesome work!
Thank you Ricardo, much appreciate it!
Thabkyou 🙏 I do some spectacular, but easy canyons that require a small abseil so I'll eventually be putting this informative video to good use. So far I've been ae to navigate my way around the abseiling points. But I'd like to make more of an adventure out of it so ebseiling the area's I've been avoiding will be cool
Hey Dale, that’s awesome! A friend of mine is Canyoning guide and he took me into sone canyons. I always found it more scary to jump from 10meters into what feels like a bath tub, than to rappel down. Very cool sport, glad that you find the video useful.
So helpful for a beginner man! Well done 👏🏽
Thanks a lot, appreciate it!
@@TakeTheHighground looking forward to you’re future videos man!
Thank you so much for making this video!
Thanks for watching Stephen!
I love your shirt thank you for your support
Thanks a TON for this, very clear explanation. I knew a lot of theory, but bits and pieces. This brings it all together on how it works and why we use or not use some of the systems. Liked and subscribed. Thank you!
Hey Marko, you’re very welcome, super happy that you found it helpful!
Just a quick clarification, that might be helpful for viewers who have alpine or ski touring harnesses, they do not have leg loops that are rated for load bearing for the friction hitch. In that case you need to use the belay loop for the friction hitch. Since you extended the repel, creating room between the belay device and friction hitch, there really isn't a reason to use the leg loop at all, generally I'd only use the leg loop if I am not extending the repel and I have a harness that has load rated leg loops.
Thanks for the comment. Could you maybe elaborate on what you mean by “load-bearing”? My understanding is that even ultralight harnesses are rated to the same standards as any other harness and that the weight saving has a lot to do with comfort and long-term durability. For example, the blue ice harnesses (you hardly get lighter than them - only 84g per harness) are still rated EN 12277 Type C, so they are fully functional climbing harnesses.
The load on the 'third hand' is actually pretty low - I use a hollowblock loop on mine, when holding me on the rope, it is hardly even tight, it just applies enough hand tension to the brake strand, nothing like your body weight..... saying that I have it secured to my belay loop with an extended ATC.
With other friction devices (figure 8, etc.), you have to do something to stop. But if you get stung by a bee or someone flashes a photo of Shakira in a bikini, or you are otherwise distracted, you might not do what you need to do to stop. Stopping while doing nothing, and having to do something to go seems far safer. Especially for someone such as myself, who doesn't get enough practice to be very proficient. I use a Petzel Stop, which is big and bulky. But it works well for me provided that the rope is the right diameter. Thanks for the GREAT video!
Thank you very much!
Great video. The techniques you have shown will get er done ✔️. Yes there is a pro and a con to every technique. It's always good to have many tools in the tool bag and to be aware of all of your options.
Hey, thanks a lot!
Great video man. I'm trying to learn about rappelling. You've got a new sub !
Thank you very much, really appreciate it!
Best video on this subject 👌 thanks buddy
Thank you for watching, I really appreciate it! Fabio
Thank you Sir! Great job 👍.
I can’t choose between Megajul or BD ATs
Thanks a lot! I have the Megajul as well as the BD ATC Guide. Personally, I find the guide is more versatile, I didn't really like rappelling with the Megajul, and most of the people know how to use an ATC on Multipitch, so you can easily swap gear with your partner. The setup with a Megajul is more particular. But then, on the other hand, the Megajul is semi-auto when it comes to belaying a lead climber, and that can be an advantage. Currently, I use the ATC for anything out in the mountains and have replaced the Megajul with a GriGri for sport climbing. But that really comes down to personal preference.
@@TakeTheHighground thank you Sir 👍💯
Well done video, information and delivery.
Thank you very much, I appreciate it!
Arguably the best instructional climbing videos out there. You are very detailed and stay on point. Love the videos!
Thank you very much Jeff, I really appreciate it!
Thanks man, very useful
You’re very welcome!
Nice, thanks. Enjoyed the content
Thanks a lot for watching!
Cheers Mate.
Thanks!
Hi!
Great video.
In the video you mention backing up the system and using the cord you carry with you for that purpose.
But you don't show how you do it.
Can you give more guidance to what you mean by that backup and how to create it? Or point to another video?
Thanks!
Hi! Absolutely. Generally if you have a rappelling point set up in the mountains, it's likely (unless you're doing something super wild) a pre-made position. This could be two bolts, two bolts with a chain already in between them, a tree with slings, etc. I would use cord to back up this rapelling point. I'd e.g. connect the bolts if they are not connected yet (threading thre rope through both bolts is a bad idea), put another sling around the tree instead of trusting the ones already there, etc. When the snow melts in spring, I will go out and do a video about how to build a belay in details but I hope the above gives you a good indication what I meant. Fabio
Great video though it would have been nice if you had demonstrated how you used cord for your anchor
Thanks a lot! I will do a complete belay/anchor video as soon as the snow in the mountains is gone.
What do you think of the giga jul, it appears to be an autolocking guide plate or tube as you called it?
Hi Liam, Edelrid‘s devices are generally well thought out and innovative. I haven’t rappelled with the Giga Jul yet. It appears that by making the device able to switch between auto-block and ordinary tube, Edelrid eliminated some of the Mega Jul‘s drawbacks, especially when it comes to rappelling.
Great video!
Thank you!
Cool explanation.
Thank you!
Prusik on the leg strap... shouldn't be a loaded part of the harness.
Only using one anchor point as the weight bearing point, and the other as a backup... they should be equalized and weighted evenly.
Care to explain the “why” behind both statements?
Kurze Frage: du sprichst vom GriGri am Anfang auf Englisch als von einem fully automatic repelling device. Das GriGri ist doch ein Sicherungsgerät aus der Kategorie der Halbautomaten. Müsste es dann nicht auch ein "semiautomatic belay/rapelling device" sein?
und dementsprechend das ATC auch nicht als semiautomatic sondern einfach als Tube / tubular device bzw. autotuber bzw. "autoblocking device / assisted breaking device" im Falle des Mega Juls/ Giga Juls?
Jap, ist so,
Hi! Thanks for the video! A little surprised you use a prussik rather than an autobloc? The autobloc is quicker to tie and easier to release.I think either one works but the autobloc is the standard, at least where I come from!
Hey John, thanks for the comment! I recently did some additional research on backups, since I uploaded a video yesterday where I discuss the whole leg loop / belay loop thing that you can see often in the comments.
In the literature I saw the autobloc more often than in the past, Petzl & Ortovox definitely recommend it, while the handbooks of the mountain guide federations and alpine clubs seem to be with the traditional prusik. I personally used the autobloc with a 30cm sling a few times and didn’t particularly like it, but that’s likely more because of the sling. I’ll definitely check it out with the cord.
@@TakeTheHighground in some unscientific research by hownot2highline, a prusik seems better than the autobloc knot. In his testing the autobloc slips easily while the prusik seems to do it's job fairly well and consistently.
Pieter, that’s interesting, thanks a lot!
It would be awesome to have the list of equipment and or links for them on Amazon…
Hey Nicole, thanks for watching. No problem, let me add this to the description (might need a bit to do this, but it will be there). Fabio
And done! 😁
After rappelling directly off that clove hitch, you will find it is harder to undo than the figure 8 - especially for heavy / multiple abseilers. Also, why show people to rig an anchor like this? They may be misled into not using both bolts and equalising them. For safety and therefore redunancy, ALWAYS equalise your anchor points and abseil directly from THIS power point (usually a figure 8).
Hey Tim, thanks for the comment. I assume you’re referring to the single strand rappelling where the rope stays in place. In fact the clove hitch is actually easier to untie after weighted because you can just slide it off the carabiner.
You can always equalize bolts, but I’d say it’s like wearing a helmet while cooking dinner. It will increase safety to a certain degree, but by default it’s not necessary. Now I’m not saying you don’t need a backup, that’s given in all set-ups I show. Equalization is a specific technique, it has many applications and if you only pick one technisier, it might be a good one, but it’s not the end all be all when it comes to building belays.
How long is the prusik cord you are using? I am referring to total length, not just from your leg loop to your rope.
It’s roughly 18-20cm.
@@TakeTheHighground Thank you, but is the whole loop only 7 inches? It looks like it’s 7 inches from your leg loop to the rope, but I was wondering what the length of the entire loop is. I think cordelette would be a better word for it. I appreciate your time and thanks in advance.
Great content! Thanks for the clear explanation :)
What I would have liked to hear more about is rope management in this context, both in a single and in a double rope setup. How do you go from being tied into the rope at the top of a climb, to getting the rope threaded through the anchor, while making sure it has no chance of falling out of your hand
Hi Mihai, thanks a lot! It’s indeed an interesting question, in which regions are you climbing? In my experience (mostly in the European central alps and Dolomites) a direct transition and rappelling down the climb is not something that happens very often. For real alpine (or “trad”) stuff there is usually an easier descent because rappelling down the route would mean to leave a lot of gear behind. The same is true for actual big routes in the mountains (basically go up the north face and then walk off the normal way). For more civilized routes (e.g. bolts and bolted belays), there is often a dedicated line to rappel down. So you have 5 routes up, but the descent goes via a special rappelling route that is often steeper, has no traverses in it and is much quicker to get down than if you’d follow the climbing route.
But rope management on bigger routes is a fantastic topic, I’ll definitely make a video on it.
@@TakeTheHighground I'm usually climbing in north-northeastern Switzerland (hello from Zurich btw 😉). So far I've only done one multi-pitch climb (super easy one in Erstfeld with a walk-off) so don't have much experience yet, but have an alpine climbing course in Alpstein Kreuzberge planned for later this year
Love it, I know the climb in Erstfeld! You will really enjoy Alpstein, Kreuzberge is a cool place to climb. I don’t remember all routes from the top of my head but I think most of them were also walk off. Great place, you really can look forward to that course!
nice
What is that harness you are wearing?
Does this also work with a v thread on ice climbing?
Yes, absolutely, setup stays the same
@@TakeTheHighground Thank you. I wish one day I'll get to try them on the field
Are you using a static rope or dynamic rope?
If it is only for rappelling, then a static rope would be the way to go. However since I use most of my gear also for climbing and stuff, I usually have dynamic ropes.
Super video, hesch guat g'macht.
Merci!
Is that leg loop a rated loop?
Rated for what force?
Thanks for the video!
Thank you, you’re very welcome!
I really enjoy your videos. I was wondering - would you be comfortable making a tutorial on alpine rope soloing? I realise that you could be stirring a hornets nest with something like that.
Hey Steffen, first of all thank you for the kind words. I’m not really afraid of armchair hornets, but I tend to only make tutorials when I have quite a bit of practical experience with something. I did a lot of self belaying on a fixed rope when I intensively trained sport climbing for the mountain guide exam (not finished yet). However I didn’t do a lot of alpine rope soloing, so I honestly don’t think that I have the proper expertise to make a video on it. BR Fabio
So what happens when the rope breaks?
Hi, so if it breaks (above you) while you rappel, you’ll fall. The best thing to avoid this is not to have the rope run over sharp edges. The forces from rappelling are pretty low, so it’s unlikely that the rope will break without mechanical damage. If you can’t avoid an edge, at least avoid making a lot of lateral movements and stay as smooth as possible.
If you’re at a belay and your rope is broken (e.g., because it got stuck and you had to cut it), you have to decide if you want to only continue with the long end and use the ordinary double-strand rappelling or if you need additional length and go for a technique where you rappel only on a single strand of rope.
Why hitch on a sling? Your already halfed strength by girth hitch, and by a possible unequal girth your loading predominantly on one leg.
Hey, would you want to use a carabiner instead of the girth hitch on the belay loop?
Not to bad of video. Don’t put the prusik on the leg loop. Your looking for issues if going unconscious. But I couldn’t really pay attention to the info with your anchor set up like it is. How is that even close to equalized?
Thanks. For the leg loop thing: check out the video explicitly discussing the issue with the prusik. Happy to have the discussion there. For equalization: this video isn't meant to illustrate building an anchor, it assumes that there already is one. I however assume that it is common knowledge that equalization isn't the only way to build an anchor, so I fail to understand the issue.
Mine still using old fashion one,still using figure8 me!! Is Too expensive climbing and/or abseiling equipment in my country..😒🤦🏻♂️ 🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️🇮🇩
Figure eight works perfectly fine, it love it for rappelling! I just use the ATC because that’s what most people also use for climbing up. 👍
Defdefdedef just subs to your channer bro!!please make more video especially a bout landNav in nature!!🤗😘😊👍🏼
Oooo also more about knots,either climbing knots or survival need kind of knots maybe brother!!??
Thanks bro, will do! There is a whole LandNav playlist and there will be more videos on that topic.
Of course the same for ropes, but I also plan some videos on how to make fire, etc.
Thanks for subscribing, really appreciate it!
That pesky pruuusik
its a good video but its not all you need to know... how should I do if a rock falls and cuts my rope below me? And where's the figure 8? And how rescue my self in case the glove go through the atc? and rescue myself if "wolf mouth knot" happen in my 8? legs position? rules of rappel like... dont touch in wall if you dont need to avoid a collapse. hands position... its simple things for us but not for newbies
Thanks! Indeed, we will never know enough, maybe it’s „all you need to know to get started without instantly killing yourself“ 😂
The gri gri IS NOT a rappelling device. It is a belay device. But a lot of people incorrectly use it as a rappel device.
You should definitely let Petzl know, they are the manufacturer and they explain on their homepage how to rappel with a Grigri, and call it suitable for rappelling.
Rappeling is just belaying yourself.
Well said 😅
I can't take you seriously wearing that "black rifle coffee company" shirt
Good call, not even I take myself seriously
What's wrong with guns and coffee? 🇺🇸
That sounds like a personal problem.
BRCC are awesome.
@crabbiboi5528 black rifle is a very anti 2nd ammendment company that's why
THANK YOU, VERY MUCH, FABIO, FOR THIS EXCELLENT TUTORIAL ON A SOLID RAPPEL SET UP!! 🥨
Thanks for watching and the kind words, I really appreciate it.