Видео

I appreciate your honest review on mountaineering boots. I haven't climbed for quite some time, but I have the urge to do so. I usually resort to LaSportive for mountain climbing, 14ers, and Scarpa for serious winter conditions and ice climbing. When I first started climbing 14ers I had found the Super Hiker ll boot that Vasque was making back in the 1990's, but then they were taken over by China so I went to LaSportive unfortunately I wore them out, so I am looking for a comparable one made nowadays. So yeah, I am much older but still in pretty good shape, I just want to climb some more before I can't. Great video though.

Just an idea with regard to the classic configuration, from a tree surgeon in hamilton. I notice that the first carabiner could be functionally substituted for a solid ring, as the gate is never opened on that carabiner for the purposes of the configuration. I realise it may mean carrying an additional piece of hardware itself potentially connected by a small tool carrying carabiner in turn. Just something to consider. Interested to hear your thoughts.

Thanks, it's informative

I'm still new to rappelling. I thought you put the rappel extension through the two soft loops and not the belay loop. I've watched more videos demonstrated through the soft loops than the "hard loop" belay loop. Is it because it's nylon? I've used Dyneema through my two soft loops in a girth hitch.

Great opinion article. Theres a context for everything. "You shouldn't" is not the same as "i wouldn't" . I dont know why you would build a setup that made you load a leg loop that isn't rated independently and inducing a twist and make it more difficult to stay upright. Lots of people use the leg loop, i dont and i wouldn't. But if your risk analysis says otherwise, feel free. Its definitely better than no prusik.

What about those small sonic alarms? They are high frequency and very loud.

What would be the most efficient tool to autobelay your second when doing a simul-climb ? Tibloc or microtrax ?

I have two Atom SLs. The 1st gen has different pocket construction and a different inner liner. I love both ones but for many active use cases Proton FL & Lightweight are just better. It cuts some wind too, but is uniformly more breathable insulation and fleece-like liner, and has sizeable chest pocket(s). Probably one of the best light sport jackets ever made.

Super good review. Thanks!!

Is it the same color as combat xt gen 2 shirt?

Thank you for this! If I may ask a few questions, where do you like to get your rope? Also, is it important to get a thicker rope like 1/2 inch? I remember the RopeRunner Pro, accepts 11.5 - 13 mm rope, if I understand correctly.

Take that Black rifle coffee shirt and.... Black rifle coffee company is anti 2A. I would sooner drink pig piss.

Thank you for this.

Fellow Catholic climber; just want to say stay passionate about your faith and craft and your content inspired me to get into this sport.

The tent looks much bigger in packing size in your video than it is. If you pull the strips around the package it gets very small.

Very clear instructional, thank you.

Most of this just depends on the length of your extension though, right?

Excellent job of explaining what is needed for the different types of terrain, my girlfriend thinks highly of you 😢. Great video.

I dropped my reverso this past weekend on a cliff. I pulled out my phone, found your video on youtube, and was able to get down to the ground safely. Thanks for the excellent tutorial. It was literally a life-saver!

Where's the video for the belay?

I love your shirt thank you for your support

Most important! Keep in mind that rappelling is a slowed down process not a marathon! (if you do it properly the ropes will not be burning then)

Outstanding work. Thank you

Does this also work with a v thread on ice climbing?

What size tubing is you use ?

Where are you Fabio? Long time no see.

What is that harness you are wearing?

Argument against prussik on leg loop: if ATC falls apart the prussic becomes your life support. I suppose this is why it is called "backup"?

Merci

Great vid. I was always under the impression that you only attach slings into the tie in loops as it stops the belay loop from having its natural movement. Belay loop only for carabiners. I attach the ATC to my belay loop with a carabiner and have the prusik above the ATC and attached to a carabiner in the belay loop. the downside to this is that the belay loop has no redundancy.

Is a backup prusik still a good idea when using a figure eight rappel device and not an atc? I’ve seen people use a prusik on the anchor side of the rope when using a figure eight but not on the brake side with a figure eight.

Great breakdown. I think that the idea behind attaching your prussik to the belay loop vs the leg loop is that as we see more rappelling accidents many of these involve the rappeller not clipping both strands of the rope on a double rope rappel. If this occurs the full weight of the person is loaded onto the prussik. The leg loop isn’t “rated” for this force and it could lead to a failure of materials rendering the prussik useless. I would say that if everything is loaded correctly then the leg loop attachment is definitely going to provide you with added friction and control while rappelling. “Best practice” in today’s world is to attach the prussik to the belay loop. Again, the most important thing as you pointed out in the video at least once is to understand the system as a whole and make sure you’ve set it up appropriately.

I am looking at B2 boots but for winter I will not climb MontBlanc, but I will encounter a lot of snow. I will not climob vertical ice so semiauto crampons maybe will do. I am looking at the SCARPA Mantas , but they are abit heavy idk... I will not take them more than 3500 m maybe -15 -18 C. What is your opinion on quality of the SCARPA. my Budget is about 360 euro so I cant jump to the b3 anyway ... Nice video tho !!!!

I am looking at the Grivel Air tec Evo. But here is a lot of confusing advise on the legth of the axe . I am 180cm and when i measure from the inner of my fist to the bone of my ankle with the tape measure I have 68-70 cm. So in this case I must buy the 66 cm axe, but some people say I would not use it as a walking pole too much and if i encounter steeer terrain I need a shorter axe (which I will) I dont need Ice climibing tool. They say that for self arrest I need an axe just longer not to stab myself in the stomach (probably very rare thing to happen if self arrest done properly) But i will need my axe only to self arrest make steps and maybe on a steeper terrain. I dont know should I ignore the advice of hand to ankle idk. Thank for the video

Easily one of the best all round channels for mountaineering and climbing as well as other topics. Keep up the good work! I am new to mountaineering and you have provided a lot of helpful information in this video as well as many others, as well as having a good attitude towards things xD

Excellent ❤

So hooking into your conclusion, what are your favorite pants that you have tried? The Arktis or clawgear? I was eyeing the Arktis myself, but they never seem to be in stock in decent sizes.

should i get my pant size or what the website tells me to get when i put it in

I like when you pointed out that you can leave half the rope around your shoulders and start again. My rope is longer and thicker and by the time I get over half way it's become very difficult to keep wrapping it around my shoulders. Thanks.

2 key things missing in this video are A) you can super munter the rappel to not twist the rope and create more friction B) you should flip the pear shaped biners so that the rope is running through and over the small curve not the large curve if using the carabiner rappel which would also create opposite/opposed screw gates rudicing the risk that the rock runs over the screw gate and ultimately increasing the risk one or both of the biners not being locked while rappelling

Hi As a good skier (onli around 80kg) do you feel a difference between the shift and a normal downhill binding on descending? How "strong" does the shift feels on groomers ore hard snow? Great video by the way!

Are these general mountaineering boots a Scarpa Ribelle or different model?

but many grams of down does it have?

If your prusik is under the ATC then all it provides is a hand brake instead of your hand vs letting go so it might be ok not to be in the main belay loop as your prusik will not hold all your weight just substitute for your hand braking. But then you have the fear of the prusik sliding in the ATC and becoming loose that you acknowledge. I put the prusik above the ATC and in the main belay loop. That way it slides up and never into the ATC it never gets loose but it has to hold on to the rope without the ATC so it will hold all your weight so it has to be in the main belay loop. Let me know if my technique is flawed, I find it less sketchy than a prusik under the ATC.

This is a really solid review. Thanks for taking the time to make it.

Hi! I know this video is a bit old! Hopefully you see my comment. Im doing my first winter expedition to a small mountain in Scotland this winter and Im thinking of getting the Summit Evo as a general mountaineering axe to use in the upcoming years, held it in a shop and looks and feels amazing. I was originally going to get the 59cms lenght, as I am 5'10 (1.78cms) but now I'm a bit confused in which one to get as quite a few people say to just get the 52cms, as a smaller axe gives an overall better use. What would you recommend? Thank you! Ps. Very well explained video!

Are you using a static rope or dynamic rope?

Some good philosophy.

Fabio, thank you for reminding us that there is beauty all around us. God has blessed us with so much of it. I have always wanted to visit Rome. I love history.

It could also be that the instructions from the company that is organizing a trip didn’t inform clients enough and as a beginner you go “omg I better come prepared with xyz, safety first”. On the other hand of course there is an argument “yes but client should ask” Soooo… Ps of course you have enthusiasts who are just like “I need a full gear for this experience