Be carful measuring current between a power rail and ground (20:30). This is not a measurement of how much current the graphics card is pulling and can cause damage to the meter. The only way to measure current with a lead style multimeter is to place the meter probes in series with the power rail. Voltage is measured in parallel like you demonstrated but current must be measured in series with the device in order to obtain a current reading for the device.
exactly, that 7,51A probably shorting between the power rail to ground, so the entire 7.5A running through the probe cable, at 12V that's like 90W, and that's maybe a bit dangerous especially if the probe cant handle it
@jshowa o yeah, almost every DMM always has a fuse, but some cheap DMM cheap out on the quality of the probe itself, and that's kinda why its a bit dangerous running high A through the probe, although most DMM has like 10A fuse and 500mA fuse for the mA range
@@samiraperi467 for the measurement circuit yes, but not the probe tho, the probe cable in A measurement basically a short between the red and black probe, and between the probe there's a 10A fuse
For the 1050, I thought you could have tried to go into Windows on integrated graphics, gone into device manager and see if it's recognised as a device and determine if it's just the display outs that are dead or the whole card. And if the whole card is dead, just get a cheapo heat gun and blast the die and around the VRAM for a few minutes to try revive it
In hindsight, I 100% should have done this. I was just side-tracked by the other cards (we literally tried what you're describing with the bricked Sapphire cards hahah). I'll follow up on this card. I still believe it's savable.
GPU silicon damage is actually quite rare. The vast majority of dead GPUs that aren't artifacting simply have some voltage rails missing, very likely due to missing VCC, RefIn or EN on one or more PWM controllers on the card.
I've had two AGP cards this year that just weren't giving a picture out anymore while booting. One of them (a Radeon 7500 LE) died while on the Win XP loading screen. I suspect that both of them actually suffered from a silicon damage as I cannot find anything that looks off to me on the cards
yep, sometimes you can get the cards to post just by pressing with a finger on the chip/s. heat/cold expansion snaps a micro crack somewhere and thats what you need to hunt down. Time to google blueprints and start the hunt for valdo
yup it mostly caused by bad mosfet driver ICs, broken gate, or bad transistor, which not giving NV_VDD_PG/Pex_PG/1v8_PG good signal or not receiving any Enable signal.
One trick I’ve learned from trying to unscrew a really really hard to turn screw (not sure if it will worked for a stripped screw) but if you put a rubber band over the screw hole and press the screw driver right on the rubber band where the whole is under the band it will give the screwdriver a lot more grip. Just an idea to try
1050: blank signal means there is an issue with the memory the sapphire cards: i would suspect a short on the core vrm area, probably fuses poped on the 8 pin side
Got a buddy with same issue, fuse popped had to be replaced. Sadly his had something wrong with thermal pads they liquified or something and killed the memory chips later on.
@@DraftySatyr thats what we assumed happen, when we opened the card pads were fked up and there was liquid all over the memory chips. The card didnt work at that point.
@@eye776 This was just a regular card and my friend is just a heavy gamer, i guess he pushed it too far. After replacing the fuse card worked for couple of months i think.
When in doubt, always clean the cards, sometimes a spec of metal dust or something conductive can cause a short. The first 1050, looking at the close zoom in, check the 3rd and second last M3054M70822E chips, solder looks a little janky on them.
A few months ago I got a 1060 3gb for $5, the person selling it said it was broken and there was some sort of stain (a spill I guess) on part of the PCB. Cleaning it with IPA didn’t really fix it at first, but the other day I brought it out and it magically worked again. So I guess in my case you just need to wait a really long time lol
That was my Grandfather's strategy to fix things. In about 1981, he broke the dishwasher so it went into storage for the next twenty years. Sadly, it was still non-functional when my Parents sold his house in 2001, so it was included "for free". Perhaps it needed to sit a bit longer.
Just something to toss into the ether here. The verge guy went on linus' channel and finally owned his L. The video itself has no where near as many views has his "build" video so alot dont even know so I try to pass on that knowledge when I see verge memes haha
to remove corrosion in heatsinks being CPU or GPU, use equal parts of white vinegar and distilled water and leave it submerged in the mix; the vinegar acts as a acid eats away dirt and corrosion in the surface, but its not to strong to make real damage to copper or aluminum in short time. I used to deep cleaning a RX 580 SE heatsink and it look like new. 👍
You can remove the VBIOS chip and use the CH341A kit to connect the VBIOS chip to your PC via a USB connection and then backup and re flash the chip. Pretty easily done actually. I think your tech savvy enough to accomplish this task. Good Luck! You correctly identified the VBIOS IC in the video post. (the first chip you pointed to).
The two cards with no power, you should check for shorts to ground on the power management rails, usually small square ic's with 8 pins (4 on each side) you'll want to check the 'gate' pin, the one that is usually connected to a pad on it's own
You can use the multimeter with resistance on the pcie power pins to check for a short and if you find a short you can stress the specific pin then check for hot points
welcome to the Pc gaming , but boy you could not choose a worst time in history to enter it ! :P I swear it is much better normally ! Just wait and see when availability is back in order and there are no major shortages also for the crypto mining to not be profitable ...eventually it will !
@@GregSalazar You win some and you loose some, All part of the content and thats all that matters, its an amazing watch so It is all good. All the best for 2022!
@@venix20 I got a beast of a build so I am one of the lucky ones I think. I have been a console gamer since before I can remember, But PC just offered me soooo much more and its great
@@BR1NGTH3P4YNE my transition to pcs came in 2000 from playstation 1 to pc i was 13 at the time but after that i never had major interest in consoles my self other than few exclusives that in most part i kicked back with friends and played with em on their console ! Currently i am stuck with a gtx 1060 6gb because i refuse to pay 700+ euros for a 3060ti ! Thankfully i still game just fine i just have to reduce in some of the games the settings to medium , witch is really a 1st world problem i can wait up for things to get to normal :P
Try a CH341a BIOS reprogrammer. I used one of those to re-flash a GTX 1050 fake GPU from Wish to the correct GTX 650ti vBIOS. Keep in mind the clip isn't very good (you could also de-solder the bios chip instead but I don't have soldering equipment)
15:00 You can buy nickel/copper polish also which does work most times with a bit of effort. 20:00 Probably a blown power gate somewhere (large fuse or something). Technically easy to fix if you can replace them.
You can always drill the center of a stripped screw. Use a drill bit slightly smaller than the screw shaft, once you approach the bottom of the head during drilling, the shaft will expand slightly and spin the screw out. Just make sure you're drilling with it set to unscrew (left turning). I've done this at least two dozen times, as long as you do it slow and steady there shouldn't be any issues.
striped screws... get some rubber place it over the screw head press the driver in it hard & turn works well.... can of air, dmm, & wd40 cleans & removes insulating oxides on the pins etc well, get some before even trying to repair anything
I agree with you approach you always want to recreate the symptom, so you narrow down and verify that problem has been fixed. I've had problems like this before with some graphics cards. I found that if you clean the card up, reflow, and repasted chip as long as there's no damage to the components like the capacitors, resisters, v-cores, thermal pads etc. If everything is getting the correct amount of power, it usually will post again. From my experience if they are just gaming cards, I've found that its usually from bad thermals over time damaging the solder under the chip. The reflow in that case will assist in being a less invasive way to reconnecting the solder. Some cases it was something foreign like rust particles touching the board.
Greg, a little trick a maintenance guy showed me. With stripped screws that are vertically exposed, you can take a dremel/grinder wheel, etc then cut a straight line through it. Congratulations, you now made it accept flat head screwdrivers.
Once you break the torque of the fastner, you should be able to use the driver to unscrew them, a rubber band over the tip adds extra grip as well to losen rounded fasnters.
If you want to get the damaged screws out, put in the other ones first, so you get most of the tension of the damaged ones. Then get the damaged ones out , untighten the not damaged ones. And try to do it in a cross pattern ( like you do with a head of a motor ). Also you can carefully cut a staight out off the damaged ones with a tool like a Dremel. And then get them out with a screwdriver. You have to clean the card afterwards because of the metal parts that will spray on the PCB. And if that doesn't work, drill the head off with a Dremel or some tool like that. Clean the PCB afterwards. And get the rest out of the plastic with some pliers.
When i need to remove Stripped Philips/Pozi screws I find a standard small flat headed screwdriver can sometimes [Often] work. I'm usually removing more standard wood screws but the principle should scale. the flat head section can often bite into the cross section to grip enough to remove them. The problem you may have is if they are stripped because they were too tight and not just the wrong head used then you might not get enough torque without ruining your screwdriver?
I am certainly no GPU expert either but one fix I did to a card I had (that was otherwise considered dead) was to re flow the solder. To do that I basically put the card on a little stand on a cookie sheet and baked it for about 20 minutes. I had no confidence in that helping but I was shocked to find it actually fixed the card. Its certainly a long shot but wondering if doing that on one of the dead cards is worth the shot.
This isn't about the video itself, but I also agree about the upvote/downvote thing. I've seen many communities completely get rid of the dislike/downvote button because it "offends" people and that's just stupid, imo. Now they just tell you "well, if you don't like it, just don't upvote it" or whatever, but that doesn't really solve the issue because context is important. If we can only see the upvotes/likes that a post/video has, then we're not getting the full picture. I'm sure Reddit will eventually follow suit as well and remove downvotes because of how much "emotional" and "mental" stress it causes for people.
22:00 this "some signal" is simply a ground connection so it knows what port is connected. then after a few seconds it should go into sleep mode (the monitor) if then when you turn the pc on. and it shows "hdmi" again. THEN you have some sort of signal. otherwise it's just simply bricked
LTT just tested K5 Pro thermal paste as a replacement for thermal pads of various thickness (up to 3mm IIRC), with pretty good results. This might be an alternative if you don't want to keep a stash of all the various thermal pads that are required. It does obviously make a bit of mess though.
For the 1050, you likely have a memory related problem. You can use a program called MATs to diagnose it. I have a guide video on it linked below. ruclips.net/video/vP9ja6OYLAY/видео.html
to fix a bricked card you need too basically replace the core processor since it has 5 it could be all or even just one of them causing the issue. This also means having to remove and re-sit a new core module back in. I am guessing would take to much time for you and would be just cheaper in the long run to buy a new one.. This can happen due to a improper flash or due to extreme stress caused by data mining as that is often where most bricks occur often.
at 10:24 you encountered some stripped screws...you could have tried a robertson (square), or even a set of easy outs woulf work...granted, not everyone has a set of easy outs. love the video, and love the channel. keep up the good work!!
From my own 30 years of experience with electronics and computers, back to the retro era: You CANNOT tell if the VBIOS is broken unless all voltage rails on a card or board are checked and good. I cannot tell what voltages to look for specifically, but not only for the graphics cores, but also supplemental voltages like 3.3V, maybe 2.5 and/or 1.8V. The shorting you did with that chip down there may have shorted a power MOSFET tho which often come in that SO8 form factor too, like SPD flash chips.
Have you tried the ATI cards in the lower pcie slots. Maybe they just don't want to connect directly to the cpu if the bios been modified to run on 2x or 4x pcie channels if they were used for mining
When you have a rounded out Phillips head screw find a flat head that just barely fits in the widest opening and you should be able to turn it just fine this is always been my experience
I would heatgun the 1050 die, for 5-6 minutes (better than the oven method). Worth a shot, I'm sure you know the Tech Yes City tutorials. And a working 1060 6GB? That's a win in my book
@@marijanovic191x7 I mean, he has a lovely wife that allows him to use the kitchen and toilet sink to clean some strangers dirt, but electronic fumes on the oven may be stretching things a bit too far
@@G0nZ4Low I did not instruct him to use the oven, not the one they make food in. Baking the card doesn't mean putting it in the oven, one can bake multiple ways, the easiest is an IR heat gun, but a regular heat gun could also do, I've seen people use a heat gun used for paint removal to heat components up and it also worked.
for that heat sink just soak it in CLR and all corrosion which is a type of oxidation & it will come off. Than wash with brake cleaner(no chlorine type). also get a dremel or rotary tool and white buffing compound with a super soft wheel. If you want a link to these wheels let me know. also I have seen the fuse on those 480's be bad and thus not get power. it is a soldering a new one on thing. also if it isn't this I have seen a oven restore these 480's As for the one with output put it in the oven @ 385°F with the chip facing up so the weight doesn't make it fall off. 5-12 min is all it takes and slowly heat it up after it is completely cleaned and degreased(grease and dust is oily and this can also cause a gpu chip not to boot as it creates a bridge for current to flow so degreasing is always a step when cleaning a gpu) . however, it probably had a hot point and solder flowed or vibration cracked the solder somewhere. The oven should gently reflow it. Just make sure you don't bump hit or jar it when you take it out though.
For stripped out screws, put a rubberband on top of the screw then force your screwdriver into the rubberband so that it grips the top of the stripped screw. You should be able to loosen it at that point.
Keep up the good work. I enjoy every minute of it. Even other people's comments! I went through the hodge-podge of trouble shooting and sometimes you can't fix'em.
Using wire strippers to grip the inside of the screw and outer edge of the screw also works and less likely to touch the board. You may end up with indentations on the screw but it helps for next time you may need to remove them
I have the exact same GTX 1050. My card runs super cool, never seen it above 55C even while benchmarking. Literally the coolest runing GPU that I've ever seen. I doubt whatever the problem it has was from heat. Maybe something got fried from power surge or static.
Great job with the zip ties, that will work well. To eliminate the bad bios possibility I'd flash it with a clip on programmer as also mentioned by others here. I would check all the voltage rails as well. I am speaking from experience as I do repair GPU's. Unfortunately almost all the cards I see have hardware not software problems.
Jank works man, I ran four 120mm fans screwed to a thick sheet of cardboard to cool a bunch of hard drives. The case was a hotbox and I didn't like how hot the drives were getting.
Agreed about the dislikes counter. When I look for tutorials I use the like/dislike ratio as a quick estimate of whether the video was helpful to people in the past, and indeed the ones with a poor ratio tend to be clickbait or otherwise low-information content. For now I've installed a browser extension that restores the dislike counter (the data is still available from the API), but RUclips might break that too at some point.
You hid what you did with the thermal pads! I was waiting for it and boom jumped to the next part. I agree with the problem of Like ratios, it was mostly useful for telling if a video was spam or misleading/useless.
In the future, a very small little file will turn a stripped phillips head screw, into a very not-stripped and easily removed flat-head screw. I used it in mechanic work more than you would think, and it's a life(and time) saver.
I had the same Zotac 1060 6gb in my build until a few weeks ago... All around solid card. Escape from Tarkov with a 9600k medium/high settings at 80ish fps.
the gtx 1050 is still alive. if the gpu die gets hot means its receiving voltage and working. most likely its missing voltage on vram, probably a resistor or one of the voltage regulators is bad. the rx 480 does need new bios chip. maybe...
G'day Greg, I have had Corrosion similar to the 1060 on GPU Heatsink Fins that I buy from Queensland, where they have a Tropical Climate, I give them a spray with Lanolin & let them soak overnight which isn't perfect but is a big help & prevents future Corrosion in their new home down here in N.S.W. There is a new product available that I want to try called 'Metal Rescue' that is supposed to be brilliant at removing rust.
Take the shrouds and heat sinks off the sapphire cars and put them in the oven at 385 degrees for 8-10 min. Did this with my old r9 390 when it randomly stopped working, and it worked like a charm.
On that Gtx 1060 you could use a brass wire brush head in a drill to clean the heatsink bottom. Should be soft enough not to mark up the bottom too bad. Then just take a fine scotchbrite pad and some polishing compound to smooth it out.
when you find those really rounded out holes. Use a Elastic, press the elastic in the hole of the screw and turn. It helps a ton to grip on those rounded ones.
PROTIP: for a cleaning type of lapping you can use a dremel and rouge on whatever cotton attachment you want to use to polish up the surface thats the quick way to clean up that 1060 heatsink. Tooth paste is also an option as is thermal paste as a polishing paste! I had to use tripoli compound to remove liquid metal from a copper heatsink once ;D
Honestly I see you're not really trying hard or doing much and only seem to scrape the surface when it comes to repairs - you should push yourself and attempt repairs that are out of your comfort zone! Even if it seems unlikely just try.
Sorry this took me too long to find, but I noticed the card looks like it has two bios chips, poeple are saying that the Saffire Nitra RX 480 has dule bios and a switch between overclocking mode and quiet mode, I think the middle location of that switch is for debugging, I managed to fix an old GTX 660 of mine that went out a long time ago maybe it was older than that, and I fixed because I had no other choice. I am also wondering if all the cards had the sourrounds removed and they put a water block on them to explain one of the chips slowly moving out of place. They said for boot mode the switch needs to be towards the graphics card I/0, for Quiet mode the switch needs to be away from the graphics card i/0.
you could try putting the ones which don't work in the oven at 150 c for about 10 mins. a heat gun is better since you should be heating the gpu die only till it resolders itself.
May be a stupid idea and more of a project than its worth, but if you could get your hands on - Where is the Bios-Memory? - a hex-dump or a working one of those cards you could - read-out the working bios over I2C or SPI with an arduino - write the read-out or downloaded hex to the old chips with an arduino over I2C or SPI Again: This probably belongs more to the category "i think that would be fun!" and not to "that is reasonable and pay my bills".
The power issue could be down the power line. You may have power at the 6 pin PCI-E slot but it doesn't mean that anywhere else that it's getting power. You would have to follow the 12v all the way to the chip. I bet Louis can find the problem with those Nitros.
You need re-flash the RX 480's bios with hardware tool if they are that bricked. Also checking continuinity on 8pin power fuse should be done along with voltage readings from vrm, core, memory etc... Manually jumping pins 1 and 8 does really nothing if nothing is in the bios chips, core after all needs information from bios to function. I would gladly try repair the RX 480's, been repairing gpu's last 3 years.
Triple also: Your commentary on the dislike button and the BS of it has earned you a subscription from me. Absolutely going to support you from now on monetarily as well. Great, great take on it.
So by 19 mins in, I have now learned that the key to low GPU temps is to flash to wrong vBIOS to my card. Thanks for the tip :)
Lmao
The actual key to low GPU temps is to not plug it in.
Pls dont
You can just mod it properly
no, to completely brick the bios
Be carful measuring current between a power rail and ground (20:30). This is not a measurement of how much current the graphics card is pulling and can cause damage to the meter. The only way to measure current with a lead style multimeter is to place the meter probes in series with the power rail. Voltage is measured in parallel like you demonstrated but current must be measured in series with the device in order to obtain a current reading for the device.
exactly, that 7,51A probably shorting between the power rail to ground, so the entire 7.5A running through the probe cable, at 12V that's like 90W, and that's maybe a bit dangerous especially if the probe cant handle it
@jshowa o yeah, almost every DMM always has a fuse, but some cheap DMM cheap out on the quality of the probe itself, and that's kinda why its a bit dangerous running high A through the probe, although most DMM has like 10A fuse and 500mA fuse for the mA range
@@clee2423 Multimeters have an internal resistance in the mega ohm range. Trust me, the meter isn't subjected to 90W.
@@samiraperi467 for the measurement circuit yes, but not the probe tho, the probe cable in A measurement basically a short between the red and black probe, and between the probe there's a 10A fuse
For the 1050, I thought you could have tried to go into Windows on integrated graphics, gone into device manager and see if it's recognised as a device and determine if it's just the display outs that are dead or the whole card. And if the whole card is dead, just get a cheapo heat gun and blast the die and around the VRAM for a few minutes to try revive it
10/10
Also could be a bad BIOS on the gpu that can also brick GPUs
In hindsight, I 100% should have done this. I was just side-tracked by the other cards (we literally tried what you're describing with the bricked Sapphire cards hahah). I'll follow up on this card. I still believe it's savable.
@@GregSalazar Fingers crossed that it works on the next follow up 🤞
@@GregSalazar Hey if it works I might try it as I have a dead card (PowerColor Red Dragon Radeon RX 5700 8GB GDDR6 Graphics Card)
I love content like this where people take broken stuff and try to fix it.
Me too! Makes me want to learn how to do it myself but I have no idea what I'd lookup to try. Something like "electronics repair course" I guess?
Another neat trick for threaded screws - put an elastic band in the stripped thread, then screw it out. Usually it'll give enough to get it unscrewed.
GPU silicon damage is actually quite rare. The vast majority of dead GPUs that aren't artifacting simply have some voltage rails missing, very likely due to missing VCC, RefIn or EN on one or more PWM controllers on the card.
I've had two AGP cards this year that just weren't giving a picture out anymore while booting. One of them (a Radeon 7500 LE) died while on the Win XP loading screen. I suspect that both of them actually suffered from a silicon damage as I cannot find anything that looks off to me on the cards
@@--fishiiki- it's not always visual damage. You need to measure the rails physically.
@@RobynnxX fair enough
yep, sometimes you can get the cards to post just by pressing with a finger on the chip/s. heat/cold expansion snaps a micro crack somewhere and thats what you need to hunt down. Time to google blueprints and start the hunt for valdo
yup
it mostly caused by bad mosfet driver ICs, broken gate, or bad transistor, which not giving NV_VDD_PG/Pex_PG/1v8_PG good signal or not receiving any Enable signal.
One trick I’ve learned from trying to unscrew a really really hard to turn screw (not sure if it will worked for a stripped screw) but if you put a rubber band over the screw hole and press the screw driver right on the rubber band where the whole is under the band it will give the screwdriver a lot more grip. Just an idea to try
2 years late but thank you for the tip
@@quinellaonyt3039you are the one who is 2 years late lol not me
1050: blank signal means there is an issue with the memory
the sapphire cards: i would suspect a short on the core vrm area, probably fuses poped on the 8 pin side
Got a buddy with same issue, fuse popped had to be replaced. Sadly his had something wrong with thermal pads they liquified or something and killed the memory chips later on.
@@DraftySatyr thats what we assumed happen, when we opened the card pads were fked up and there was liquid all over the memory chips. The card didnt work at that point.
@@eye776 This was just a regular card and my friend is just a heavy gamer, i guess he pushed it too far. After replacing the fuse card worked for couple of months i think.
@@darkcr0w.719 I think some kind of oil can leak out of thermal pads, I think it also shouldn't be an issue
When in doubt, always clean the cards, sometimes a spec of metal dust or something conductive can cause a short.
The first 1050, looking at the close zoom in, check the 3rd and second last M3054M70822E chips, solder looks a little janky on them.
exactly had a 1650 did not post cleaned it for half an hour with ipa 99 and it worked works still
Yeah, it easy to short a board. Found a computer screw had dropped on the gpu board shorting the circuit.
Sweet, thank you!! I needed a good long video to ply in the background while I do laundry.
A few months ago I got a 1060 3gb for $5, the person selling it said it was broken and there was some sort of stain (a spill I guess) on part of the PCB. Cleaning it with IPA didn’t really fix it at first, but the other day I brought it out and it magically worked again. So I guess in my case you just need to wait a really long time lol
That was my Grandfather's strategy to fix things. In about 1981, he broke the dishwasher so it went into storage for the next twenty years. Sadly, it was still non-functional when my Parents sold his house in 2001, so it was included "for free". Perhaps it needed to sit a bit longer.
You can clearly fix this WAY better than The Verge can, let's be honest lol.
😅
Though he used tweezers and called them "zipties"
The verge can't even build a computer even with build instructions lol
Just something to toss into the ether here.
The verge guy went on linus' channel and finally owned his L. The video itself has no where near as many views has his "build" video so alot dont even know so I try to pass on that knowledge when I see verge memes haha
to remove corrosion in heatsinks being CPU or GPU, use equal parts of white vinegar and distilled water and leave it submerged in the mix; the vinegar acts as a acid eats away dirt and corrosion in the surface, but its not to strong to make real damage to copper or aluminum in short time.
I used to deep cleaning a RX 580 SE heatsink and it look like new. 👍
You can remove the VBIOS chip and use the CH341A kit to connect the VBIOS chip to your PC via a USB connection and then backup and re flash the chip. Pretty easily done actually. I think your tech savvy enough to accomplish this task. Good Luck! You correctly identified the VBIOS IC in the video post. (the first chip you pointed to).
The two cards with no power, you should check for shorts to ground on the power management rails, usually small square ic's with 8 pins (4 on each side) you'll want to check the 'gate' pin, the one that is usually connected to a pad on it's own
You can use the multimeter with resistance on the pcie power pins to check for a short and if you find a short you can stress the specific pin then check for hot points
Love the content, I started PC gaming about 8 months ago. And watching your videos teach me so much. KEEP IT UP!
Thanks for watching! Wish our success rate had been a bit higher!
welcome to the Pc gaming , but boy you could not choose a worst time in history to enter it ! :P I swear it is much better normally ! Just wait and see when availability is back in order and there are no major shortages also for the crypto mining to not be profitable ...eventually it will !
@@GregSalazar You win some and you loose some, All part of the content and thats all that matters, its an amazing watch so It is all good. All the best for 2022!
@@venix20 I got a beast of a build so I am one of the lucky ones I think. I have been a console gamer since before I can remember, But PC just offered me soooo much more and its great
@@BR1NGTH3P4YNE my transition to pcs came in 2000 from playstation 1 to pc i was 13 at the time but after that i never had major interest in consoles my self other than few exclusives that in most part i kicked back with friends and played with em on their console ! Currently i am stuck with a gtx 1060 6gb because i refuse to pay 700+ euros for a 3060ti ! Thankfully i still game just fine i just have to reduce in some of the games the settings to medium , witch is really a 1st world problem i can wait up for things to get to normal :P
Try a CH341a BIOS reprogrammer. I used one of those to re-flash a GTX 1050 fake GPU from Wish to the correct GTX 650ti vBIOS. Keep in mind the clip isn't very good (you could also de-solder the bios chip instead but I don't have soldering equipment)
Yeah, maybe It's something to try it @Greg, now graphics card are so expensive, try to salve it!
11:00 @Greg you should try using a rubber band, you place the rubber band between the screw and the screwdriver helps to grip it just a tip :D
17:14 fan-tastic
'...nowadays people (on Ebay) are parting with some weird stuff...' - first item ever sold on Ebay was a broken laser pointer...
15:00 You can buy nickel/copper polish also which does work most times with a bit of effort.
20:00 Probably a blown power gate somewhere (large fuse or something). Technically easy to fix if you can replace them.
@18:47 You could "hardware flash" the bios.
You can always drill the center of a stripped screw. Use a drill bit slightly smaller than the screw shaft, once you approach the bottom of the head during drilling, the shaft will expand slightly and spin the screw out. Just make sure you're drilling with it set to unscrew (left turning). I've done this at least two dozen times, as long as you do it slow and steady there shouldn't be any issues.
striped screws... get some rubber place it over the screw head press the driver in it hard & turn works well.... can of air, dmm, & wd40 cleans & removes insulating oxides on the pins etc well, get some before even trying to repair anything
I agree with you approach you always want to recreate the symptom, so you narrow down and verify that problem has been fixed. I've had problems like this before with some graphics cards. I found that if you clean the card up, reflow, and repasted chip as long as there's no damage to the components like the capacitors, resisters, v-cores, thermal pads etc. If everything is getting the correct amount of power, it usually will post again. From my experience if they are just gaming cards, I've found that its usually from bad thermals over time damaging the solder under the chip. The reflow in that case will assist in being a less invasive way to reconnecting the solder. Some cases it was something foreign like rust particles touching the board.
there is a small hot spot on the other side of the middle output if you look at the thermal you did on the 1050
Greg, a little trick a maintenance guy showed me. With stripped screws that are vertically exposed, you can take a dremel/grinder wheel, etc then cut a straight line through it. Congratulations, you now made it accept flat head screwdrivers.
Once you break the torque of the fastner, you should be able to use the driver to unscrew them, a rubber band over the tip adds extra grip as well to losen rounded fasnters.
You might be able to get the Sapphire cards to show up on a Linux based system. Sometimes windows is just a bit buggy with cards.
Love these fault finding videos! Always handy to have some potential knowledge in the bank should something bad happen!
Keep up the good work!!
OMG! this was 2yrs ago i am really enjoying watching you, i literally watching every single of your videos. Keep doing more please...
If you want to get the damaged screws out, put in the other ones first, so you get most of the tension of the damaged ones. Then get the damaged ones out , untighten the not damaged ones. And try to do it in a cross pattern ( like you do with a head of a motor ). Also you can carefully cut a staight out off the damaged ones with a tool like a Dremel. And then get them out with a screwdriver. You have to clean the card afterwards because of the metal parts that will spray on the PCB. And if that doesn't work, drill the head off with a Dremel or some tool like that. Clean the PCB afterwards. And get the rest out of the plastic with some pliers.
Informative and fun as always. Currently binging your fixing videos and pondering a change of career
20:29, why did you choose DC amps and not Voltage?
8:30 The shroud fans are NOT CONNECTED !! how could you miss that Greg???
When i need to remove Stripped Philips/Pozi screws I find a standard small flat headed screwdriver can sometimes [Often] work.
I'm usually removing more standard wood screws but the principle should scale. the flat head section can often bite into the cross section to grip enough to remove them.
The problem you may have is if they are stripped because they were too tight and not just the wrong head used then you might not get enough torque without ruining your screwdriver?
I am certainly no GPU expert either but one fix I did to a card I had (that was otherwise considered dead) was to re flow the solder. To do that I basically put the card on a little stand on a cookie sheet and baked it for about 20 minutes. I had no confidence in that helping but I was shocked to find it actually fixed the card. Its certainly a long shot but wondering if doing that on one of the dead cards is worth the shot.
This isn't about the video itself, but I also agree about the upvote/downvote thing. I've seen many communities completely get rid of the dislike/downvote button because it "offends" people and that's just stupid, imo. Now they just tell you "well, if you don't like it, just don't upvote it" or whatever, but that doesn't really solve the issue because context is important. If we can only see the upvotes/likes that a post/video has, then we're not getting the full picture.
I'm sure Reddit will eventually follow suit as well and remove downvotes because of how much "emotional" and "mental" stress it causes for people.
22:00 this "some signal" is simply a ground connection so it knows what port is connected.
then after a few seconds it should go into sleep mode (the monitor)
if then when you turn the pc on. and it shows "hdmi" again. THEN you have some sort of signal.
otherwise it's just simply bricked
put a rubber band between the screws and the screwdriver Gives more grip.
I think you did just fine, Greg. I'd be thrilled to have that 1060.
LTT just tested K5 Pro thermal paste as a replacement for thermal pads of various thickness (up to 3mm IIRC), with pretty good results.
This might be an alternative if you don't want to keep a stash of all the various thermal pads that are required. It does obviously make a bit of mess though.
For the 1050, you likely have a memory related problem. You can use a program called MATs to diagnose it. I have a guide video on it linked below.
ruclips.net/video/vP9ja6OYLAY/видео.html
And this is the guy to send the cards to. He can make videos and most likely get the cards working. Hopefully a win for everyone.
to fix a bricked card you need too basically replace the core processor since it has 5 it could be all or even just one of them causing the issue. This also means having to remove and re-sit a new core module back in. I am guessing would take to much time for you and would be just cheaper in the long run to buy a new one.. This can happen due to a improper flash or due to extreme stress caused by data mining as that is often where most bricks occur often.
at 10:24 you encountered some stripped screws...you could have tried a robertson (square), or even a set of easy outs woulf work...granted, not everyone has a set of easy outs. love the video, and love the channel. keep up the good work!!
From my own 30 years of experience with electronics and computers, back to the retro era: You CANNOT tell if the VBIOS is broken unless all voltage rails on a card or board are checked and good. I cannot tell what voltages to look for specifically, but not only for the graphics cores, but also supplemental voltages like 3.3V, maybe 2.5 and/or 1.8V. The shorting you did with that chip down there may have shorted a power MOSFET tho which often come in that SO8 form factor too, like SPD flash chips.
I used to fault find and repair boards down to the original faulty component or open circuit. It’s worth learning
Have you tried the ATI cards in the lower pcie slots. Maybe they just don't want to connect directly to the cpu if the bios been modified to run on 2x or 4x pcie channels if they were used for mining
When you have a rounded out Phillips head screw find a flat head that just barely fits in the widest opening and you should be able to turn it just fine this is always been my experience
I would heatgun the 1050 die, for 5-6 minutes (better than the oven method). Worth a shot, I'm sure you know the Tech Yes City tutorials. And a working 1060 6GB? That's a win in my book
Yeah, baking or reflowing would probably do.
@@marijanovic191x7 I mean, he has a lovely wife that allows him to use the kitchen and toilet sink to clean some strangers dirt, but electronic fumes on the oven may be stretching things a bit too far
@@G0nZ4Low I did not instruct him to use the oven, not the one they make food in. Baking the card doesn't mean putting it in the oven, one can bake multiple ways, the easiest is an IR heat gun, but a regular heat gun could also do, I've seen people use a heat gun used for paint removal to heat components up and it also worked.
for that heat sink just soak it in CLR and all corrosion which is a type of oxidation & it will come off. Than wash with brake cleaner(no chlorine type). also get a dremel or rotary tool and white buffing compound with a super soft wheel. If you want a link to these wheels let me know.
also I have seen the fuse on those 480's be bad and thus not get power. it is a soldering a new one on thing. also if it isn't this I have seen a oven restore these 480's
As for the one with output put it in the oven @ 385°F with the chip facing up so the weight doesn't make it fall off. 5-12 min is all it takes and slowly heat it up after it is completely cleaned and degreased(grease and dust is oily and this can also cause a gpu chip not to boot as it creates a bridge for current to flow so degreasing is always a step when cleaning a gpu) . however, it probably had a hot point and solder flowed or vibration cracked the solder somewhere. The oven should gently reflow it. Just make sure you don't bump hit or jar it when you take it out though.
You can buy those thermal pads in A/4 size sheets in different thinkness. Then you just cut out the size you need.
I'm aware. I've never needed this thickness before, so I didn't have any on hand.
8:45 or you could try plugging the fan shroud in... its just hanging there.. not plug into the board at all. No wonder its not spinning.
For stripped out screws, put a rubberband on top of the screw then force your screwdriver into the rubberband so that it grips the top of the stripped screw. You should be able to loosen it at that point.
Keep up the good work. I enjoy every minute of it. Even other people's comments! I went through the hodge-podge of trouble shooting and sometimes you can't fix'em.
If the price is okay a batch of "bad" gpus might be worth the insvestment, but lately I see broken gpus going for $200-$300
I've seen broken ones going as high as 1500, the market is ridiculous rn
Using wire strippers to grip the inside of the screw and outer edge of the screw also works and less likely to touch the board. You may end up with indentations on the screw but it helps for next time you may need to remove them
I have the exact same GTX 1050. My card runs super cool, never seen it above 55C even while benchmarking. Literally the coolest runing GPU that I've ever seen. I doubt whatever the problem it has was from heat. Maybe something got fried from power surge or static.
Great job with the zip ties, that will work well. To eliminate the bad bios possibility I'd flash it with a clip on programmer as also mentioned by others here. I would check all the voltage rails as well. I am speaking from experience as I do repair GPU's. Unfortunately almost all the cards I see have hardware not software problems.
For those thermal pads, you could buy a small tub of that thermal group that ltt made a video on recently.
Jank works man, I ran four 120mm fans screwed to a thick sheet of cardboard to cool a bunch of hard drives. The case was a hotbox and I didn't like how hot the drives were getting.
Agreed about the dislikes counter. When I look for tutorials I use the like/dislike ratio as a quick estimate of whether the video was helpful to people in the past, and indeed the ones with a poor ratio tend to be clickbait or otherwise low-information content. For now I've installed a browser extension that restores the dislike counter (the data is still available from the API), but RUclips might break that too at some point.
You hid what you did with the thermal pads! I was waiting for it and boom jumped to the next part. I agree with the problem of Like ratios, it was mostly useful for telling if a video was spam or misleading/useless.
In the future, a very small little file will turn a stripped phillips head screw, into a very not-stripped and easily removed flat-head screw. I used it in mechanic work more than you would think, and it's a life(and time) saver.
5:35 it missing plug for power gpu up by telling top right of board 6 pin
I had the same Zotac 1060 6gb in my build until a few weeks ago...
All around solid card. Escape from Tarkov with a 9600k medium/high settings at 80ish fps.
What about using one of those clips and reflashing the BIOS on the cards directly? I did it on a motherboard once.
you can reflash the bios by removing the chip and use a portible flash unit
For stripped screws lay a rubber band over it and use the tool like normal pushing the rubber band into it
the gtx 1050 is still alive. if the gpu die gets hot means its receiving voltage and working. most likely its missing voltage on vram, probably a resistor or one of the voltage regulators is bad. the rx 480 does need new bios chip. maybe...
G'day Greg,
I have had Corrosion similar to the 1060 on GPU Heatsink Fins that I buy from Queensland, where they have a Tropical Climate,
I give them a spray with Lanolin & let them soak overnight which isn't perfect but is a big help & prevents future Corrosion in their new home down here in N.S.W.
There is a new product available that I want to try called 'Metal Rescue' that is supposed to be brilliant at removing rust.
Get thermal putty to replace those thermal pad. Really comes in handy when you don't know what thickness of thermal pad you'd need
A tip for a stripped screw is to put a rubber band on the tip of the driver to get more of a grip. A latex glove would work as well
on some stripped screws place a rubber band in between the screw head and screw driver. lowkey life saver when working on someone else's screw ups
Holy crap, the clip of Lahey was pure art.
Take the shrouds and heat sinks off the sapphire cars and put them in the oven at 385 degrees for 8-10 min. Did this with my old r9 390 when it randomly stopped working, and it worked like a charm.
I'm sucker for these can we fix videos!!
If you have a rounded out screw you can just put a piece of tape on it and it usually works, has to be a tape with some texture though and not to thin
On that Gtx 1060 you could use a brass wire brush head in a drill to clean the heatsink bottom. Should be soft enough not to mark up the bottom too bad. Then just take a fine scotchbrite pad and some polishing compound to smooth it out.
when you find those really rounded out holes. Use a Elastic, press the elastic in the hole of the screw and turn. It helps a ton to grip on those rounded ones.
Pro Tip: You can use a rubber band to fill gaps around the driver head on stripped screws, probably easier than pinching the heads.
PROTIP: for a cleaning type of lapping you can use a dremel and rouge on whatever cotton attachment you want to use to polish up the surface thats the quick way to clean up that 1060 heatsink. Tooth paste is also an option as is thermal paste as a polishing paste!
I had to use tripoli compound to remove liquid metal from a copper heatsink once ;D
10:20 all u need is an elastic rubber band, put it on the screws and .. there u go.
Honestly I see you're not really trying hard or doing much and only seem to scrape the surface when it comes to repairs - you should push yourself and attempt repairs that are out of your comfort zone! Even if it seems unlikely just try.
0:00 "this here is a Walmart bag" *proceeds to show a Publix bag*
It looks like the copper block on that 1060 6gb was lapped, before Greg got a look at it.
Sorry this took me too long to find, but I noticed the card looks like it has two bios chips, poeple are saying that the Saffire Nitra RX 480 has dule bios and a switch between overclocking mode and quiet mode, I think the middle location of that switch is for debugging, I managed to fix an old GTX 660 of mine that went out a long time ago maybe it was older than that, and I fixed because I had no other choice. I am also wondering if all the cards had the sourrounds removed and they put a water block on them to explain one of the chips slowly moving out of place. They said for boot mode the switch needs to be towards the graphics card I/0, for Quiet mode the switch needs to be away from the graphics card i/0.
I use K5-Pro thick thermal compound to replace pads on stuff like this. Works great.
Just wanna ask, what kind of liquid you use when you clean de gpu?
Does salazar by any chance offer gpu services? My 980ti is acting strange
I highly suggest investing $20 in a set of easy outs. I run into stripped heads like this all the time. More so in laptops.
Yup the Zotac covers usually break down along the screw holders
you could try putting the ones which don't work in the oven at 150 c for about 10 mins.
a heat gun is better since you should be heating the gpu die only till it resolders itself.
May be a stupid idea and more of a project than its worth, but if you could get your hands on
- Where is the Bios-Memory?
- a hex-dump or a working one of those cards
you could
- read-out the working bios over I2C or SPI with an arduino
- write the read-out or downloaded hex to the old chips with an arduino over I2C or SPI
Again: This probably belongs more to the category "i think that would be fun!" and not to "that is reasonable and pay my bills".
The power issue could be down the power line. You may have power at the 6 pin PCI-E slot but it doesn't mean that anywhere else that it's getting power. You would have to follow the 12v all the way to the chip. I bet Louis can find the problem with those Nitros.
Is there a jtag connection on those "dead" cards that you can use to flash the cards out-of-band?
You need re-flash the RX 480's bios with hardware tool if they are that bricked. Also checking continuinity on 8pin power fuse should be done along with voltage readings from vrm, core, memory etc... Manually jumping pins 1 and 8 does really nothing if nothing is in the bios chips, core after all needs information from bios to function. I would gladly try repair the RX 480's, been repairing gpu's last 3 years.
Couldn't you use the thermal pads (if present) from one of the bricked cards to use in the one working card?
Triple also: Your commentary on the dislike button and the BS of it has earned you a subscription from me. Absolutely going to support you from now on monetarily as well. Great, great take on it.