Snap! 10/15 min videos that are cut or sped up when he does re-balls and solders memory chips are enjoyable to watch. I like his little rambling too. I learn a lot
I really liked this video, You answered a bunch of questions that I am sure most viewers were curious about. We got great bonus context like the inside of the testing box, the inside of your heater. And most of all, we got another successful repair to enjoy. I would love it if you would bring these long form videos out every so often.
I got the same spot welder! Was like $22 and works really well. Made a few "Makita" batteries with it and everthing worked like a dream. Can only recommend.
@@northwestrepair Put the ceramic bloc on the underside, not in the back of the heat element, to stay away from the heat all you can... Maybe it will help
Yep best bet I put tin Coated copper Ferrels on every thing saves a lot of problems and protects the copper wires from any crimping or clamping dammage
@@northwestrepairyou may want to take a look at lambda sensors cables, they are high temperature resistant. Ask your local car mechanic for a bad oxygen sensor (lambda sensor) with long, undamaged cables.
Something that would be cool I would definitely tip you a couple bucks, if you could make a small buyers guide of best models and manufacturers based on quality of fabrication. I think a lot of people would appreciate that. Thanks for you video! Always a pleasure!
Between Techpowerup (website) and Buildzoid (RUclips channel AHOC) there's pretty much a PCB analysis of every card model available. You can also easily determine which models have heatsinks & cooling solutions that are overkill and which don't have nearly enough. It's not foolproof but that's how I shop for a GPU.
This would make a great video, like a brand tier list, I kept watching the video and now it seems like Its no longer necessary and brands dont matter since it depends on the model.
I use carbon-based tweezers instead of metal when soldering, so that the heat is concentrated on the soldered parts and not transferred into the tweezers lowering the temperature (especially when using pointed solder bits), I learned this from a friend who does metal brazing for a living, he had the jaws of his vice custom-made from dense bakelite material and I asked him why and thus it leads to a discussion of heat dissipation during brazing and soldering.
I ordered 250k .45 solder balls. Going to give this a try. All your fault. Well a few other channels as well. Thanks for sharing all your vast knowledge.
Really liked the long format, always informative. But I really miss your longer reball with music. Something very therapeutic about it. Also would really like to see your thoughts on the spot welder.
When I got my first 8086, 8088, and then 386, all the cards were plugged in standing up straight. They were ‘desk top’ computers that usually the monitor sat on top of. Now for so wacky reason, motherboards are on their sides, and heavy video cards are sideways stressing everything from the board connection to the bearings on the fans…. WHY?… did some tech designer loose their mind and understanding of physics or gravity?
I confess this level of expertise is beyond my interests but it was still fun to watch - timestamps for the key sections would be appreciated! Anyway, it made me feel happy I am using the supporting stand of my 3080 Suprim X since day one.
I bought a kit of high temp crimp connectors from the service counter at a local restaurant supply businesses. They are used in all sorts of restaurant equipment.
Hi. One thing you can try on your heater is to connect the two ceramic protected wires directly to the connector. Direct copper connection is better then with cable shoes you are putting on the end of the wire. If you are able to change the two wires change them to a bigger size wire. That will reduce heat production at the connection point and in the wire itself.
You can't use flux instead of thermal paste due to it's viscosity and some other parameters. It'll be very prone to pump-out, will smell weirdly and if activated will loose some of it's thermal conductivness. Great video, as usual ;)
I have ran several sapphire cards and all the amd ones have been solid the 6950xt and 7900xt are the latest the drivers have always given me more trouble than the board itself
44:55 I used to tin wires before attaching them like that as well until we did a wire retention test at work on a project. We found that the tinned wire was easier to pull out than the bare copper wire and a ferrule was the best retention. We were all surprised by that outcome.
Really enjoy your work. It's a shame that it takes so much time, because it's not the sort of assembly line work that is going to get you a "better than factory" $1m house, but for the people you're helping who have spent a fortune on these cards who have no one else to turn to - you're basically like their saviour.
So the way that we fix bent cards like that is we usually heat it up in an oven and get two peices of balsa wood and clamp them together we let it heat up and then every few minutes after it heats up we tighten it to straighten it out. Most of the non flat/surface mount components will have to be taken off first
hi if you make yourself some killed spirit flux ,or cut up a AA battery casing the soft type ,cut into tiny peices then add battery acid just enough till its covered now put it outside and leave it till the reaction completely stops now pour the liquid into a tiny glass jar with a lid ,just a cotton bud dipped in ,then rub on the metal to be soldered,it will etch stainless,alluminium,brass even spring steel ,will make the solder sick like glue
Steel crimp ferrules are what you want, but if you can't find those, just snip the tab off the crimp you used and make sure the screw in the terminal clamps down onto the sire through the remaining crimp collar. If you just clamp the tab end, the problem is that as you use that heater, the heat from the large current flow softens the crimp and it starts to relax and the connection progressively gets worse and worse.. If you clamp down on the wire, the ferrule (or the remaining crimp collar) basically protects the wire from damage by the screw, but allows you to really crank down and get a tight connection..
You have no idea how toxic lead is. Worse, it builds up in the body. That is why it is banned for use mostly everywhere. Besides it is a non issue. Lead free solders have been solved at least more than 10y now. Actually they should ban leaded solder for repairs too. I have done repairs with CuSnAg and it is long lasting, no issues at all. Some adjustment is need on practices but it can be done well.
Lead is like asbestos - an incredibly useful material and very abundant , just has the small problem of being bad for human beings who come into contact with it 😂
hi John.your burnt heater connections need NI-CHROME LUGS for hot connections. Nickel-Chrome Lugs are more heat resistant than the rest. thx for great content...
Flux will probably pumpout within one duty cycle as thermal paste. I have switched to a Thermal Grizzly Kryosheet on my RTX 4070 Ti, stock temps again and they won't degrade.
the ends of the heater are bare resistive wire, it tends to het hard after overheating and is unable to solter,all resistive wires are nickle based so spot welding in nickle foil should work, the thing is it is still resistive so the key is to make as big of a conection patch as possible you could also try removing the beeds and braiding copper wire alongs side the one th t stick out then sticking the beeds back on the brade, but that would increase the load on the heater itself
Not sure if it'd help but I've had good luck with backup battery power stations in a condo that can't handle a lot of load where I need it. Unlike a lot of brands the two Dabbsson units I got shares the load across both inverters, effectively doubling the max output power, along with the capacity. Some brands like this also support 240V with two units using an additional parallel connector. Just one of mine by itself handles up to 2200W continuous (close to where many 15A breakers start tripping), and cost me ~$500 during a sale. A lot of power with a lot of capacity obviously isn't cheap but it might be worth looking into during the holidays, unless you want to build your own. The portability of these things is really convenient... Basically a little generator for power tools you can throw in the trunk of a car.
Copper connectors will work pretty well for your heater thats what we use in our welders and they can get pretty hot at times, soldier will just wick up the wire as it heats up but im sure you know this
I always find interesting how the homes in the US are wired. I live in a tiny house in the UK but have 240v and 32A for my sockets in the living room, while homes in the US are much bigger and have 16A for general use sockets with 120v. So 4x less for a bigger space!
Tony, if you were to buy a GPU right now and had to choose a brand, based exclusively on build quality from a repairability standpoint, regardless of it being NVIDIA or AMD, which would you rather buy?
A descent crimper will make your life easier, forget the welding it, consider brazing instead... its often overlooked but its good for getting into little tiny crevices, have even seen cracked cylinder blocks repaired that way...
13:47 You should be using pipe cable shoes that you can solder on the cable. 45:00 Never use tin at the end of a cable. Tin is soft and after some time it will make the cable loose. That is why you don't tin the cable ends in a lamp or other home device. You always use end sleeves ...
I wouldn’t use that style crimper. Use one that has a center style crush not outer edge. It will improve when using any sort of butt connector and the continuity in the long-term. After 25 years in automotive and dealing with electrical and building some harnesses from time to time, it is a better solution.
I just fixed a HP 4070ti and it had the WORST quality solder balls ive ever seen! The card had zero physical damage, the memory rails were measuring 180ohms on Micron memory and when i removed the solder all of it was completely grey, every single solder ball was oxidized and it bubbled and fizzed when heated. Also when cleaning the solder off the board it left literal dirt all over the board. I've never seen anything like it before. Lead free solder is the WORST.
ROHS came into effect around 2006, with lead free packaging being mandated since 09, modern lead free solder chemistry is mostly no worse to work then 60/40 and actually has better mechanical properties then 60/40 in many cases. Clearly the reality is that its just hard to keep such massive FC-BGA packages on a whippy piece of fiberglass, especially when the cards arent mechanically supported properly and then beat to hell in shipping lol.
45:12 If you want the cable really crimped, screw the screw in, out , in, out and in. That should distribute the forces evenly. Electricians do it this way.
@northwestrepair Do not tin the end of a wire going into a screw connection! Tinned wire will deform over time, loosening the connection and produce a big fire hazard, especially if high amperage is involved. Also tin will always go much deeper into the wire, than just the connection point, especially if it has a lot of strands. Wire with tin is less flexible, so there will be a breaking point where the tin ends due to most future bends starting and ending right there. Instead you should use crimped end sleeves. Can be bought in China for cheap, along with a definitely good enough criming tool. (For the resulting connection it doesn't matter if the crimped wire has 4 or 6 sides in the end.)
i think the problem with that ceramic connector could be fixed if you tried before to clean it up using some sort of slightly mild acid to and then alcohol and then heat it with the hotair to like pre-heat it then try to solder it (soldering it) ...after a bit of thinking its much easier to just spot weld it in place👀
I seen wear like that on automotive wheel bearings chained down to hard on the car carriers. It happens in construction zones with those rumble strip speed bump thingys
Je me demande pourquoi les gens n'utilise pas une extension PCI-E afin de réduire le risque de distorsion et de casse sur ce genre de carte qui sont de plus en plus lourde?
MSI 3080 Ventus - I have already repaired several of these GPUs, and I can say one thing, that after unsoldering the GPU, you need to carefully check whether any of the pads from "CB46 to CB61" are not loose, if so, I tear out and insert a new one.
when building and repairing racing drones i hated lead free solder on tip if you have to solder it lose at home put some lead solder on there then it will melt more easy i have found
What I don’t understand is that gpu’s have gotten so large and heavy that without additional support they will all fail in time. It’s about time the gpu/motherboard is reinvented. Why would I pay upwards of $2000 for a video card that can’t support its own weight. That sounds like a lawsuit to me.
28:12 It’s an almost surgical operation; which brings me back to my first question, why don't graphics card manufacturers put a slot for GPU and Vram modules like in PC motherboards?
@@markwazowskinreal I think they can get around this with the technology they have today, and the graphics cards will be easier to repair and upgrade, imagine if you can add more VRAM and change GPUs, you buy a 4060 then you move to a 4090; I think manufacturers just don't want people to be able to upgrade and repair their graphics cards.
@@agentkruger no, you can't, ddr5 on laptops its unstable after 6000, so they are soldering it now, even on pc high ddr5 freq its no stable with 4 dimms. and you are forgetting that "GDDR6 and HBM still outperform DDR5 by 10x" , you can read about signal integrity and u will see that is impossible
@@malkyprijemny7077 because there is my understanding of things and the truth which are two distinct things but which can come together if there are other different opinions
alot new stuff learned again from this video. Wonder when the pcb is bended when you heat it up with weights on it you able to straighten it back fully to its original form because of the heat or do it stay permenant twisted in some kinda degree?
The longer format is greatly appreciated.
Snap! 10/15 min videos that are cut or sped up when he does re-balls and solders memory chips are enjoyable to watch. I like his little rambling too. I learn a lot
+1 for the longer format. I am glad others feel the same. I thought it was just me.
They wanted the same bend as their monitor!
Folding screens must be paired with folding cards.
Well duh.
How else do you bend the image?
@@VIT-ey8wo lol
I really liked this video, You answered a bunch of questions that I am sure most viewers were curious about. We got great bonus context like the inside of the testing box, the inside of your heater. And most of all, we got another successful repair to enjoy. I would love it if you would bring these long form videos out every so often.
I got the same spot welder! Was like $22 and works really well. Made a few "Makita" batteries with it and everthing worked like a dream. Can only recommend.
Get some ferrule crimper for the ceramic block, automation uses coated copper and car audio uses copper. Also flux helps with the carbon cleaning
Just ordered a kit. Thank you
@@northwestrepair Put the ceramic bloc on the underside, not in the back of the heat element, to stay away from the heat all you can... Maybe it will help
😨
Yep best bet I put tin Coated copper Ferrels on every thing saves a lot of problems and protects the copper wires from any crimping or clamping dammage
@@northwestrepairyou may want to take a look at lambda sensors cables, they are high temperature resistant. Ask your local car mechanic for a bad oxygen sensor (lambda sensor) with long, undamaged cables.
I would love to see a spreadsheet of good and garbaje boards by model, made by someone with this amount of knowledge.
Something that would be cool I would definitely tip you a couple bucks, if you could make a small buyers guide of best models and manufacturers based on quality of fabrication. I think a lot of people would appreciate that. Thanks for you video! Always a pleasure!
Between Techpowerup (website) and Buildzoid (RUclips channel AHOC) there's pretty much a PCB analysis of every card model available. You can also easily determine which models have heatsinks & cooling solutions that are overkill and which don't have nearly enough.
It's not foolproof but that's how I shop for a GPU.
This would make a great video, like a brand tier list, I kept watching the video and now it seems like Its no longer necessary and brands dont matter since it depends on the model.
Absolutely. I know he doesn't hold AMD in high regard
@@nobody-pr7fg you need to be more specific. AMD boards are well designed/protected but the cores are mostly garbo.
Clicked because of Fallout thumbnail stayed for the crazy expertism this man has
Tony is the GOAT of GPU fixing! Cheers!
I use carbon-based tweezers instead of metal when soldering, so that the heat is concentrated on the soldered parts and not transferred into the tweezers lowering the temperature (especially when using pointed solder bits), I learned this from a friend who does metal brazing for a living, he had the jaws of his vice custom-made from dense bakelite material and I asked him why and thus it leads to a discussion of heat dissipation during brazing and soldering.
I love watching these videos. There is something cathartic about watching these repairs. Thank you for sharing.
really like this episode
"Whatever you afraid off. They'll do."😂 Nice one. Im not afraid off my zotac 1070 AMP extream. Its still working great.😊
Zotac cheaps out on fans, but power delivery is great
I ordered 250k .45 solder balls. Going to give this a try. All your fault. Well a few other channels as well. Thanks for sharing all your vast knowledge.
the 50 minutes passed so quickly, love the content man
Really liked the long format, always informative. But I really miss your longer reball with music. Something very therapeutic about it. Also would really like to see your thoughts on the spot welder.
I love watching your workflow. Keep up the good work!
When I got my first 8086, 8088, and then 386, all the cards were plugged in standing up straight.
They were ‘desk top’ computers that usually the monitor sat on top of.
Now for so wacky reason, motherboards are on their sides, and heavy video cards are sideways stressing everything from the board connection to the bearings on the fans….
WHY?… did some tech designer loose their mind and understanding of physics or gravity?
Like how you customize everything. Make it work for you
I like your recommendations for specific cards, and your explanations why.
I confess this level of expertise is beyond my interests but it was still fun to watch - timestamps for the key sections would be appreciated!
Anyway, it made me feel happy I am using the supporting stand of my 3080 Suprim X since day one.
I bought a kit of high temp crimp connectors from the service counter at a local restaurant supply businesses. They are used in all sorts of restaurant equipment.
Hi. One thing you can try on your heater is to connect the two ceramic protected wires directly to the connector. Direct copper connection is better then with cable shoes you are putting on the end of the wire. If you are able to change the two wires change them to a bigger size wire. That will reduce heat production at the connection point and in the wire itself.
The absolute love that these boards receive is astounding. Amazing!
You can't use flux instead of thermal paste due to it's viscosity and some other parameters. It'll be very prone to pump-out, will smell weirdly and if activated will loose some of it's thermal conductivness.
Great video, as usual ;)
I've been known to do some soldering for work and it's good to see that our technique are similar
You are doing great work
Watched the lot even though i don’t fix cards. Thanks for sharing preventative maintenance
eyes his XFX Speedster SWFT319 RX 6800....."hang in there, buddy..." 😅
I have ran several sapphire cards and all the amd ones have been solid the 6950xt and 7900xt are the latest the drivers have always given me more trouble than the board itself
I have the same xfx 6800 lol not scared of failure tho. As much as I like these videos I take his talk about AMD with a grain of salt.
44:55 I used to tin wires before attaching them like that as well until we did a wire retention test at work on a project. We found that the tinned wire was easier to pull out than the bare copper wire and a ferrule was the best retention. We were all surprised by that outcome.
Absolutely great work 👏
Yes to a review/ guide about the spot welder.
I've heard you my guy, your on our team. Team FE. ❤
Really enjoy your work. It's a shame that it takes so much time, because it's not the sort of assembly line work that is going to get you a "better than factory" $1m house, but for the people you're helping who have spent a fortune on these cards who have no one else to turn to - you're basically like their saviour.
So the way that we fix bent cards like that is we usually heat it up in an oven and get two peices of balsa wood and clamp them together we let it heat up and then every few minutes after it heats up we tighten it to straighten it out.
Most of the non flat/surface mount components will have to be taken off first
hi if you make yourself some killed spirit flux ,or cut up a AA battery casing the soft type ,cut into tiny peices then add battery acid just enough till its covered now put it outside and leave it till the reaction completely stops now pour the liquid into a tiny glass jar with a lid ,just a cotton bud dipped in ,then rub on the metal to be soldered,it will etch stainless,alluminium,brass even spring steel ,will make the solder sick like glue
will need a decent wattage iron though 60 and up
Steel crimp ferrules are what you want, but if you can't find those, just snip the tab off the crimp you used and make sure the screw in the terminal clamps down onto the sire through the remaining crimp collar. If you just clamp the tab end, the problem is that as you use that heater, the heat from the large current flow softens the crimp and it starts to relax and the connection progressively gets worse and worse.. If you clamp down on the wire, the ferrule (or the remaining crimp collar) basically protects the wire from damage by the screw, but allows you to really crank down and get a tight connection..
Yes, please review that battery spot welder. I've had my eye on it for months.
I particularly love those kind of days where you spend half the day fixing your tools before even starting to get anything done.
Great video really enjoyed this longer format
You have no idea how toxic lead is. Worse, it builds up in the body. That is why it is banned for use mostly everywhere.
Besides it is a non issue. Lead free solders have been solved at least more than 10y now.
Actually they should ban leaded solder for repairs too. I have done repairs with CuSnAg and it is long lasting, no issues at all.
Some adjustment is need on practices but it can be done well.
Exactly. Why complain about not having to work with a neurotoxin?
Lead is like asbestos - an incredibly useful material and very abundant , just has the small problem of being bad for human beings who come into contact with it 😂
hi John.your burnt heater connections need NI-CHROME LUGS for hot connections. Nickel-Chrome Lugs are more heat resistant than the rest. thx for great content...
THIS! After Sorin video today saying how reball is complete waste of time lol
This the real clash of the titans!
Awesome video
Thank you for your recommendations
Flux will probably pumpout within one duty cycle as thermal paste. I have switched to a Thermal Grizzly Kryosheet on my RTX 4070 Ti, stock temps again and they won't degrade.
the ends of the heater are bare resistive wire, it tends to het hard after overheating and is unable to solter,all resistive wires are nickle based so spot welding in nickle foil should work, the thing is it is still resistive so the key is to make as big of a conection patch as possible
you could also try removing the beeds and braiding copper wire alongs side the one th t stick out then sticking the beeds back on the brade, but that would increase the load on the heater itself
Not sure if it'd help but I've had good luck with backup battery power stations in a condo that can't handle a lot of load where I need it. Unlike a lot of brands the two Dabbsson units I got shares the load across both inverters, effectively doubling the max output power, along with the capacity. Some brands like this also support 240V with two units using an additional parallel connector.
Just one of mine by itself handles up to 2200W continuous (close to where many 15A breakers start tripping), and cost me ~$500 during a sale. A lot of power with a lot of capacity obviously isn't cheap but it might be worth looking into during the holidays, unless you want to build your own.
The portability of these things is really convenient... Basically a little generator for power tools you can throw in the trunk of a car.
That was a tough one; great job!
could allways braid on some high temp wire to then slide a couple high temp sleeve over that
I don't understand everything but I enjoy the cheesy 80s music during reball. That's all I come here for 👍
came home from night shift at 7 am and spent 53 min watching this XD
Copper connectors will work pretty well for your heater thats what we use in our welders and they can get pretty hot at times, soldier will just wick up the wire as it heats up but im sure you know this
I love your work!
I always find interesting how the homes in the US are wired. I live in a tiny house in the UK but have 240v and 32A for my sockets in the living room, while homes in the US are much bigger and have 16A for general use sockets with 120v. So 4x less for a bigger space!
We have 240 coming into our houses. If you want a 240 outlet it's literally nothing to just run a new circuit and install one.
Tony, if you were to buy a GPU right now and had to choose a brand, based exclusively on build quality from a repairability standpoint, regardless of it being NVIDIA or AMD, which would you rather buy?
A descent crimper will make your life easier, forget the welding it, consider brazing instead... its often overlooked but its good for getting into little tiny crevices, have even seen cracked cylinder blocks repaired that way...
Interesting information ℹ️😮
This GPU was prob shipped in a PC while connected to the PCI slot. Good job fixing it with that amount of bend damage.
You should start selling tools and particularly flux and solder balls etc. Your recommendations are gold
you should start livestreaming your repairs on twitch, great work
nice teardowns.
13:47 You should be using pipe cable shoes that you can solder on the cable.
45:00 Never use tin at the end of a cable. Tin is soft and after some time it will make the cable loose.
That is why you don't tin the cable ends in a lamp or other home device. You always use end sleeves ...
I wouldn’t use that style crimper. Use one that has a center style crush not outer edge. It will improve when using any sort of butt connector and the continuity in the long-term. After 25 years in automotive and dealing with electrical and building some harnesses from time to time, it is a better solution.
Loved this vid!
As flat of a surface as possible, such as the earth. 😂😂😂😂😂😂 Thanks for all the jokes in the videos, education and humor go hand in hand.
very informative!
Good fix.
30:46 you missed 3 pads😅
I just fixed a HP 4070ti and it had the WORST quality solder balls ive ever seen!
The card had zero physical damage, the memory rails were measuring 180ohms on Micron memory and when i removed the solder all of it was completely grey, every single solder ball was oxidized and it bubbled and fizzed when heated. Also when cleaning the solder off the board it left literal dirt all over the board. I've never seen anything like it before. Lead free solder is the WORST.
ROHS came into effect around 2006, with lead free packaging being mandated since 09, modern lead free solder chemistry is mostly no worse to work then 60/40 and actually has better mechanical properties then 60/40 in many cases. Clearly the reality is that its just hard to keep such massive FC-BGA packages on a whippy piece of fiberglass, especially when the cards arent mechanically supported properly and then beat to hell in shipping lol.
Yay I can read. I was worried for a sec.
"The only way to fix the twist on the board is to flatten the board, put it on the flattest surface that you can, such as the Earth". Hahahaha.
i want a compilation of every time he said balls.
45:12 If you want the cable really crimped, screw the screw in, out , in, out and in. That should distribute the forces evenly. Electricians do it this way.
Liked the testing box DLC
12:20 - certified 12VHPWR moment
BOOST THE VIEWS!!!
@northwestrepair Do not tin the end of a wire going into a screw connection! Tinned wire will deform over time, loosening the connection and produce a big fire hazard, especially if high amperage is involved. Also tin will always go much deeper into the wire, than just the connection point, especially if it has a lot of strands. Wire with tin is less flexible, so there will be a breaking point where the tin ends due to most future bends starting and ending right there.
Instead you should use crimped end sleeves. Can be bought in China for cheap, along with a definitely good enough criming tool. (For the resulting connection it doesn't matter if the crimped wire has 4 or 6 sides in the end.)
13:00 Use ferrule crimper, make some loop using the wire and put te connector.
i think the problem with that ceramic connector could be fixed if you tried before to clean it up using some sort of slightly mild acid to and then alcohol and then heat it with the hotair to like pre-heat it then try to solder it (soldering it)
...after a bit of thinking its much easier to just spot weld it in place👀
I seen wear like that on automotive wheel bearings chained down to hard on the car carriers. It happens in construction zones with those rumble strip speed bump thingys
Je me demande pourquoi les gens n'utilise pas une extension PCI-E afin de réduire le risque de distorsion et de casse sur ce genre de carte qui sont de plus en plus lourde?
Really you just need a stand for it
MSI 3080 Ventus - I have already repaired several of these GPUs, and I can say one thing, that after unsoldering the GPU, you need to carefully check whether any of the pads from "CB46 to CB61" are not loose, if so, I tear out and insert a new one.
"How much bend can make your graphics card beyond repair ?"
"I don't really know, let's test it."
* start to bend it *
when building and repairing racing drones i hated lead free solder on tip if you have to solder it lose at home put some lead solder on there then it will melt more easy i have found
I bet the vid doesn't do justice to how small those pads really are. Awesome work.
What I don’t understand is that gpu’s have gotten so large and heavy that without additional support they will all fail in time. It’s about time the gpu/motherboard is reinvented. Why would I pay upwards of $2000 for a video card that can’t support its own weight. That sounds like a lawsuit to me.
yes, I had one of these, a GPU with bent board. I replaced the VRAM chip with new but it failed quite soon
Thats why I got the MSI Trio non X. Msrp $1600, less power delivery, less voltage to deal with.
28:12 It’s an almost surgical operation; which brings me back to my first question, why don't graphics card manufacturers put a slot for GPU and Vram modules like in PC motherboards?
Latency if I remember correctly
@@markwazowskinreal I think they can get around this with the technology they have today, and the graphics cards will be easier to repair and upgrade, imagine if you can add more VRAM and change GPUs, you buy a 4060 then you move to a 4090; I think manufacturers just don't want people to be able to upgrade and repair their graphics cards.
@@agentkruger you answered yourself, its cuz munyyy
@@agentkruger no, you can't, ddr5 on laptops its unstable after 6000, so they are soldering it now, even on pc high ddr5 freq its no stable with 4 dimms. and you are forgetting that "GDDR6 and HBM still outperform DDR5 by 10x" , you can read about signal integrity and u will see that is impossible
@@malkyprijemny7077 because there is my understanding of things and the truth which are two distinct things but which can come together if there are other different opinions
I like Asus strix cards. I think they might be better than MSI. What do you say Tony?
where can i find the stl for the hot air mount? i appreciate you Tony!
alot new stuff learned again from this video. Wonder when the pcb is bended when you heat it up with weights on it you able to straighten it back fully to its original form because of the heat or do it stay permenant twisted in some kinda degree?
How much does a repair like that set the owner of the card back? Ballpark.
you should roll some nickel band around the wire then insert in the socket then tight the screw very good, you should not have problem in the future!
adding the extra switches to the 3 heating elements is what i thought you've already done it would be more reliable that way
@37:25 what a coincidence, I'm just doing this exact thing to a 980Ti PCB :D
try antioxidant paste..? or use similar metal its the issue u get when using copper+aluminum but made worse due to use case and heat...