Fanatec ClubSport Pedals V3 - The Best Way To Set The Brake Up !
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- Опубликовано: 10 июн 2020
- In my opinion, this is the best way to set up the load cell on the fanatic Clubsport V3 Pedals | Get yours here - UK/EU goo.gl/zLmvKQ - USA tinyurl.com/uf39s843
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Wow Such Brake Much Firm So Control - Here is our Fanatec store link if you want to get the V3s / Brake performance kit - goo.gl/zLmvKQ
I like that you do more youtube videos lately!
@@christiannoack9967 Thanks should be doing streams again soon as well :)
@@GamerMuscleVideos does the grease in it help much? not changed mine but very little use and one of the pedals makes a squeaks a bit when releasing the pedal
Hi. Just for info and letting you know. WD40 is NOT a lubricant :) Its an oil neither. WD40 is for losen screws. It will completele evaporate after a couple of days. Use silicon oil or something similar what is not collecting dust :)
Hey there. I know the video is a tad older but i noticed even in the newer videos you are a bit quiet. You talk loud but your voice have no volume anymore. I think you can fix it by bringing the mic arm closer to your mouth :) Greetings and have a nice week.
Just what I needed. A man in his mancave doing a lot of unscrewing.
Simrig maintenance is the closest you get to being a real race mechanic.
Shaun Cole isn't loosing any sleep though.
Saw this video last night after getting the brake kit earlier this week. As someone who generally likes a firmer brake pedal I followed GM’s rec and put the three green ones in there. My thoughts below during my first few laps testing:
Lap 1: this is brutal, the pedal isn’t even moving how am I going to drive without immediately locking up.
Lap 2: Too lazy to change out the greens for softer reds so let’s keep driving
Lap 3: you know this isn’t as bad as I thought, especially for heavy braking zones.
Lap 4: I kind of like this but trail braking is pretty much impossible.
Lap 5: oh wow I think I can trail brake even better than I used to be able to
Lap 6: how did I ever live without this?
Lol 😂
is just safe to put 3 greens in ?
This comment confinsed me to change to alll greens! Thanks man. Nice comment feeling it!
Ok now you just me open my pedals
Your videos never fail to make me smile 😊 Really informative as always and that intro music makes it feel like I’m being addressed by royalty! The ultimate in videos 🥰
I did exactly what you suggested, man, this works awesome. Breaking definitely better, better control. I think its much closer to more expensive stiff pedals now.
So thanks, I can really recommend this change 👍🏼🏁😃
Keep the humor up, and more to come . . .
I guess that's one thing the CSL Elite LC has over these, so much easier to change out the bits and bobs. Don't have to take anything apart, just lift the pedal, and swap them out.
Thanks alot for this video! I swapped out the piece of foam for a cut down red elastomer. I'm using green-green-half red, with the hydraulic damper set in between 1 and 1.5
thanks for the info my friend - my braking is something i can work on now , just from my experience with the BRF issues , i went to auto settings reset that and then back to manual settings and that resolved my BRF setting problems - i'm now at 45% and still working on it - hope that helps someone. Keep up the good work!
useful! A sim racing vid that is actually useful instead of 'hey watch me drive' like many of the others. Thanks!
Tnx gonna try it out right now!
Was very dissapointed about the feeding!
Know for sure this is gonna help.
Tnx
This video sums up all you need to know about brake philosophy.
It should be a consistent force required through the travel, but I'm also a fan of having some mush/take up initially. Helps trailbraking a bit, and also that's what actual brakes feel like.
I totally agree. Thats what I did when I modded my T-LCM pedals. Medium spring then a medium 45 shore, a large 45 shore and a large 45 shore. Nice mush at first and then firm.
Good video! BUT, don't use WD40 on the moving parts, it'll strip out the existing grease. Use the lithium grease as shown by Fanatec in the spots they recommend. Secondly, if you care about the wiring to your brake vibration motor, you MUST put something in between the swinging arm and the back of the pedal before removing the brake pin. The mechanism WILL crush the wire if you don't. I had to use a screwdriver as I had one of the older performance kits. The new ones supposedly come with a little L-shaped brace to protect the wire.
I used WD40 on the Club sport V2s for years and the joints were fine and it was the only thing that stopped them from making noise, I don't disagree that some other actual liquid lubricant would be better though.
Howver what is likely is that most people have some WD40 lying around and in lots of cases a small amount of WD40 will redistribute what was already there and clean up what was causing the sound-making issue. If after a bit of WD40 there was stiction or binding / still sound then it would be good then to apply some lubricant to the joint.
Any time anyone says WD40 you get 100+ people saying "It's NOT A LUBE IT STANDS FOR WATER DISPLACEMENT 40" which I think most people already know by now to be honest.
I push the loadcell in when moving it down so its not crushing the cable , I bet people are just as likely to break the cable from the motor flopping around as they would be from accidentally crushing it I think with anything like this its just a case of being gentle :)
Just took an hour to do this and what a difference! I think ultimately I'm going to upgrade to a much higher kg range (Sprints probably), but for now it's a big improvement.
Best intro ever, GM. Also....nice tools.
Nice 11 minutes and 51 seconds. But sad we didn't get to see the raw 6h live stream of this 😉
GM was on fire with the comedy-infotainment factor on this one.
fantastic thanks for the explanation of why these are installed
I got V3s 2 weeks ago and have just used them since upgrading from g29, will install the BPK tonight, start with a medium and go from there
Thank you! Great Tutorial!
The innuendo in this is over 9000.
OOOOHHH MAAATTTRROOOOOON!
Great pro tips! Thx
I have the V1 pedals and even on the most sensitive setting, I have to really stamp on the pedal to get full range.
I have V3 paddles I also have CSl i’m trying to figure out where to plug the wires for the brakes in I know on the base it says brakes but on the pedals it says wheel direct and handbrake do I plug the wire into wheel Direct?.
Thanks for yet another video that nobody asked for!
I did same sort of thing with the csl LCs i dumped the sponge bob replaced it with the 65 shore rating and 5 x 85s feels much better and like you say the feeling is more consistent, happy tea drinking but i'm on the hard stuff... Caffeine XD
I stopped the video half way through to do this to my pedals. I’m going to test it out later.
hey great vid, any hints on setting up dd pro v3 pedals handbrake? what to do 1st ? i got all the gear no idea its still in the boxes?? thanks for any reply jay
Appropriate hardness is good.
Logitech G29 noob question: Do your Fanatec pedals vibrate when the ABS is flicking ON and OFF at a zillion times per second?
Enticed by the new, mini DD; wondering what "foot levers" (pedal set) to accompany it
Your voice is very unique.
Personally, I prefer a bit of a squishy feeling just before it gets hard 😱 Good vid non the less.
Imagine coming home from work with a horse faced pizza in one hand and a stuffed camel sitting on your left shoulder and realizing that you must clean and lube your pedals. When you are about to drench your pedals with one liter of vegetable oil you get a notification. GM just saved your life and your pedals. Good video. 🐴🗿
Use olive oil
I got my V3 pedals today fed ex screwed up on shipping I get my performance kit tomorrow and I’m gonna order a damper for the gas because that spring will wear with time but a hydraulic ram will stay stiff
any reason you don't have a direct drive system? do you prefer the belt over dd? didn't feel like dd was worth it? I'm trying to upgrade my wheel and I'm trying to decide. thanks
Good vid👍
I need to go stiffer. Probably going to use wooden dowels and a cut down green elastomer.
*Cool new T3PA PRO Throttle Brake* nice
Is it possible to adjust the position of the pedals, a bit more forward - horizontal???
I tried to squeeze my eyes reading the comments but I didn’t find an answer.. then took a brave decision to ask u :) , have u cut one of the green 13 rubbers or the 12 ?
Lubricating that little rod really does make all the difference.
Sorry, may I ask which green did you cut? One of the two large or the small one? Thank you
Make sure to set the brake preload to 5 1/2. It’s like stepping on a brick. That baby don’t move. Perfect for open wheel racing.
In the next few weeks i will print some pieces with different materials and shore grades and test it. Do you think one longer piece can be better than 3 short?
How do you trail break with such a stiff set up and short pedal travel?
What program do you use to calibrate the brake like that and how do I get it?
I'm soon to upgrade to the V3s from the CSLE LCs. I'm just tired of having issues with the CSLE-LC and the potentiometers. I have even installed a set of hall effect sensors, and they are constantly in need of readjustment while I use the pedals. Screw it! I know the V3s are a better pedal than the CSLE's, so I'm going to get them.
Did you end up getting it? my LC on my CSLE just took a shit and may buy the v3's
You mention setting the brake force to 100 on calibration, as its the weakest needing most pressure. The lights on my wheel suggest otherwise as very small pressure at 100 and all lights lit up, whereas off or 1and you've got to push as hard as possible to light up all. Using same wheel as you. Am I missing something? Am on newest FW. Just need the starting point on whee, to calibrate right
Maybe it's back to front on my / some wheels just set it to what you like 👍☕
Next time I can be asked to mess with my pedals I'm doing this, also same time try that "stiffer" black spring for the throttle. GM you should try Furoshiki shoes for sim racing, game changing, thank me later.... saves you from having to match your socks for streaming too, lol
I like the spring as it is right now just due to being in socks , If I raced in shoes I might go for stiffer spring but not in socks :P stiffer spring is great for DTM cars / those cars where you have to balance the power on that last 10% of throttle input out of corners.
Could you do one of these for the csl elite lc?
If you use the little plasic tool supplied the rod goes in easy
Hi, can anyone tell me if the vibration of the pedal is something natural, pe is it rather a forced vibration which does no give a good feedback. I would understand if it is better to invest money in this pedal or in a buttkicker... Thansk
Hi GM, another great vid, just received my V3 pedals, do you suggest using straight out of the box, or fit up grade & ur suggestion for best results
????
Use them out the box and see how you like them 👍 fiddle with them when you are next board and want something fun to do ☕
@1:43 "Pro tip: always lube your rod!" LOL 😂
Yeah, and just use "whatever tickles your pickle" 🤣
Also like a bike building video “lube the pole and not the hole” or something like that was said
what do you have your preload screwed to?
100% great purchase, take these over the damper 1000000%
I use 2 reds and foam but for me it's very little travel and green are harder(?) I have no idea how you have so much travel. Also which one did you cut fi12 or fi13?
It probably looks like more travel due to cam angle + how hard I'm pushing the brake pedal.
Can I use it on my csl elite f1?
Which one do you prefer the ClubSport or the CSL?
Just orderd them :) thank you for the vid :D
If not too late, how big is the PU foam? Both foam bits that in my set up 26mm long
@@mlee6050 i dont know buddy but when i bought the v3s 2 months later i bought the BPK for the v3s and they feel so so much better ist a huge diffrence to them .
@@simracingwales4997 I would of but thinking spending amount on them then £30-35 for postage I brought the stuff they use to make the red and green things for like £10 for 100mm and just cut 20mm bits from it, if I brought it with my wheel I would of not minded but as how much just for something that cost less than the postage thought go diy
@@mlee6050 £50 quid i got stung for not ordering them with the pedals 25 for pedals 25 for postage . Was not happy about that but just bit the bullet . Im sure they have the mod brake kits on ebay now people have clocked on and are starting to make home brew versions and selling them on ebay lol .
@@simracingwales4997 yeah like if buying with set up at time the real ones makes sense, I first got damper on another order but found I not use that anymore as of diy my own performance kit
I don't have the performance kit, would you recommend dialing the preload all the way up in this case?
You could probably order elastomers of eBay for cheap for similar feel , as for preload setting might as well try it so long as its within the marked range :)
Can you just use one spring?
I’m curious your opinion to connect pedals to wheel base as opposed to connecting separately to pc. Oh guru of sim rigs.
Makes no real difference when driving.
Technically plugged direct to pc gets you more resolution but yah it's fine ether way.
Pleasantly surprised after trying, can really feel a more solid brake pedal - I didn't even cut a third peace, I just screwed on the preload to make up for the missing foam.
I haven’t got my performance kit yet I have preload at 5 it’s pretty stiff my performance kit comes in tomorrow
Hey there, great video. Question for you. I just got my rig and these pedals with the performance kit. Compared to what comes on the pedals stock, are the reds more or less firm? What would be the next step up from stock, 2 reds and the foam?
Up
Up, use the hardness guide that comes in the performance kit.
The pu foam is pu foam because it can hold (store) the lithium grease.. It has a purpose...
Can you use the Fanatec ClubSport Pedals V3 with a Fanatec CSL Elite Wheelbase?
Yep
I like my brake pedal to feel like my street car, all mush.
Did he cut a 12 or 13 into the PU foam size? It looked like the 13 was cut. And he used a full length 12 and 13. Can anyone confirm?
It doesn't matter, the point is the same.
Hey GM, would you still recommend using half a red rather than the PU foam?
Why not , just try it out 👍😆☕
The rj12 plug has come off of my brake, I am a cctv engineer so I'm no stranger to crimping down rj plugs, could someone please tell me what order the colour cores go in the plug, if your looking at it upside down so you can see the gold pins on the plug far left being pin 1 far right being pin 6 could someone please tell me the order in which the cores need crimping, thank you
There is red black green white so 2 pins will be empty
That intro 😂😂💀
What order did you put the sponges in? The larger one's together and the smaller green last?
I think I had small one last, I'm not sure if it makes much difference, to be honest, generally, with high-end pedals, the softest one is closest to the pedal and the hardest closest to the load cell.
It makes no difference as theyre all compressed by opposite sides of the same cylinder.
Cheers GM, most informative, though you did miss the 'I was reading chat' excuse out, you know, when you used to live stream ..... *sniffle. Are you going to smash out a PS5 'The Future Of Gaming' reaction video?
aha thats a good idea !
That intro pun tho
I find the best way to set the break up is to be unattentive, unsupportive and passive aggressive.
I’ve just ordered these pedals. Are they no good without the performance kit ??
They are fine without it , you can just adjust brake feel more with it.
One question... With this config is harder or easier to block the wheels? I mean with a green/green combination you will block the wheels as soons as you touch the pedal or you will really need to hit hard to block them? Sorry form my english...
Nobody? :(
@@atino its too firm imo but no you wont lock the wheels...
GM!! I STRONGLY SUGGEST YOU NEVER USE DW40!!! That stuff breaks down the grease and is used to free off seized nuts and bolts!!
This comes up every time , Yes WD40 is not a lubricant but it also works fine on the joints and stops them squeaking I say this from having club sport V2 pedals for over 2 years and WD40 worked fine to keep them smooth. If they have stiction issues and other problems then sure some specific liquid lubricant would probably fix that.
Dab of engine oil does the trick
It's a solvent - it washes away the grease. It stops them from squeaking for awhile probably because some of the grime in there was contributing to the squeak and it got rid of it - or simply because the carrier is a liquid and that lubricates the surfaces for a bit. Then it evaporates (as it's supposed to) and you have a nice, clean, unlubricated metal to metal contact. So yeah, it "works" for a while, which is why so many people continue to use it as a lubricant and say it's fine, but seriously m8, it's ultimately causing more wear and tear on the parts. But also, thanks for the vid, it was helpful :)
That intro though.
What does setting the brake sensitivity to 60% on the wheel do? Doesn’t that make the hardest you can press it then only reach 60% pressure? Seems pretty weak, no?
Also, ever try the dampening kit? I got the inverted so it came with it and I quite like it, but not sure how it compares.
The lower the BRF setting the less force it takes to hit 100% brake IE more sensitive
I didn't like the dampener kit 🧐😆
GamerMuscleVideos interesting, thank you.
I ordered the elastomer kit too when I got these pedals but haven’t tried it yet. Figured I could move the dampener to the accelerator if I wanted. I should give them a try. I found that I really didn’t gain any time or improvement otherwise moving from CSL Elite pedals with the load cell brake pedal, but maybe I need to spend a bit more time tweaking these (although I realize those were good pedals also). Oddly, I found I was .5 to 1 second faster in ACC going from the CSL Elite v1 with the same rim you have on your shelf to the right to the same wheel set you have now, which is totally against common wisdom. I think it’s because I’m not good to begin with so cutting a second off a lap wasn’t about eeking out the last tenths but being able to better keep the car under control on through turns, which most good drivers already take for granted. I also found I could drive the 911 without ending up in the grass 😂.
Anyway, good stuff, thanks, and keep it up (but don’t get stuck too long in your rig 😉)
i'm using CSL pedal with load cell
is it worth spend more and upgrade to V3?
Not really unless you really want to ajust things more , CSLE load cell is fantastic I'd probably buy V3 instead of CSLE if I had nether but I'd be perfectly happy with CSLE if thats all I had , I had CSLE load cell myself for 7 months and used it after using high end PT1 pedals and I didn't feel let down by them.
@@GamerMuscleVideos Why did you switch from the PT1 pedals?
hi great video. ive been wanting to buy the brake pedal performance kit for while now but have really bad knees at the minute so have been just using the standard springs that came supplied with the v3 pedals.
will this new set make me a cripple in 6 months if im using them a couple of days a week? or are is the force required not much harder than the standard firmer springs? thanks
You can still have the brake be sensative not require a ton of force so the BPK is more about changing how it feels :)
I tend to run my brakes super sensative so i dont have to push that hard .
The brake kit is to allow you to adjust the throw (distance) and overall feel to your liking, not how hard you need to press. The amount of force (pressure required by your leg) would be set through the menu (BRF on wheelbase or Fanalabs), 100% would require the least pressure, or set with manual calibration in the driver menu. I highly recommend the overpriced kit as I think the feel and consistency is greatly improved. As stock it feels like hydraulic brakes with air in the system....mushy; the kit gets rid of the mush.
great. thanks for your swift reply. keep up the fantastic content
thankyou for the feedback
From the manual: Adjust the preload screw so that the scale is within the correct use range and there is no mechanical play in brake pedal.
Note: Preload screw cannot be used in the full range as before, its use is limited only to eliminate the mechanical play.
Mechanical play is separate to Throw and movement, mechanical play is movement without any pressure on the load cell.
The v3 inverted are a great set of pedals as well, I highly recommend them.
The problem with the V3 inverted is the price. They're only €100 less than the Huesinkveld Sprints and the Sprints are farrr superior to the V3's.
I can't stop laughing at the first 5 seconds of this video
Just purchased a kit with the shill link 😝. They now advertise this method as another option giving double the amount of feel variations. Influencer Confirmed
Carry On Sim Racing
I thought pedals were supposed to be depressed. Now I'm sad for mine.
I wouldn't suggest putting WD-40 anywhere near your pedals, it's lubricating properties are very short lived and will also remove any existing lube, leaving you in a worse place then before - It also stinks. It's best to use Silicon grease for non metallic parts and lithium grease (or mineral oil) for metal to metal.
Just goes to show everyone is different. I had to buy softer rubbers for my HE Sprints.
I think even there softer rubbers are as hard / close to the feel of fanatec V3,s the HE pedals in general seem to be all round firmer harder springs firmer brake obvously all ajustable but out of the box and when I have used them on other peoples rigs they were much harder than any V3 setup I ever used :)
@@GamerMuscleVideos Yea I've had both and liked the V3 inverted (but they didn't work with my rig) however the HE Sprints were just too hard even with their softest rubbers. I had to buy skateboard rubbers to get them how I liked.
@@John-ok8ts Where did you buy the skateboard rubbers? what exactly did you buy? I am looking to buy some sprints but worried they are too hard and not much pedal travel. Currently I used V3s with brake mod on soft setting.
@@GamerMuscleVideos How would you compare your current setup versus the soft setting of the brake performance mod (in terms of stiffness and travel).
@@gutiserra56 Put this into Google "A cheap and easy brake mod/performance upgrade for my Heusinkveld Sprint pedals!". This guy has written a tutorial on reddit including where to buy. btw I tried the spacers but found they worked better without.
So did you adjust the throttle pedal too?
Nah I'm happy with how that felt :)
@@GamerMuscleVideos I reduced the travel distance to match the in game and replaced the red springs to black
Perfectly timed to the Brake Performance Kit being out of stock in the US and last ETA was September. And yet it's ready to ship in the EU!! WTF? Are they that incompetent that they can't ship some to their US distribution center?
That's anoying , you don't have to use there brake performance kit you can probably buy elastomers from Amazon and just cut them down to size using the ones that come with the V3 pedals as reference 👍.
That's one of the nice things about V3 design you could probably put anything in the socket solong as it's not liquid / curosive / going to get stuck in it 🤣
@@GamerMuscleVideos Haha thanks. I did try searching for them before and couldn't find equivalent parts, but yeah they must exist somewhere to buy. I can't believe no one's stepped up yet with their own generic kit to fix the supply problem.
... and just like that the V3s became available earlier than they were supposed to and I ordered them! But the BPK was still out of stock. Until 2 days later when it magically appeared ready to ship and I ordered it too! Paying double shipping is really annoying but I'm excited!
Which is better the stock v3 pedals or the csl elite loadcell??
V3 overall but the CSLE loadcell is great and works fine :)
GamerMuscleVideos ok thanks
GamerMuscleVideos by the way is AC lobbies dead on pc? I want to get it but i don’t know if i should
CSL Elite pedals. I got from Fanatec faulty V3 set of pedals and plenty people got problem with the brake.Fanatec support is terrible!
Could be wrong but after 25 years of just using the vacuum cleaner on circuit boards, usually standing on carpet, and never screwing anything up, I've come to think of static discharge damaging anything as a myth.
I think the biggest factor is the room / environment rather than the tool.
I have worked in offices where I was lightning striking everything I touched.
But yah IV built maybe 80+pcs doing IT stuff and non were broken and non were built with static bands or anything.
Stream now..... Pleaeeeee🙄
Dang, never had these issues with Heusinkvelds, and I gained time from switching to Heusinkveld.
too much professional and informative vid, you are not the real GM.
“pro tip!!!!!!”
Fyi. New performance kits have a tool for positioning the rod hole.
Alen key works fine , guess plastic angle is better though as there will be less risk of scratching or denting the metal :)
This man does not have cats. Having used my V3 pedals for a couple of years I'd say they are roughly 45% cat hair. Luckily all that lovely lithium grease has ensured it's well and truly jammed in there forever.
Question is, how did you manage to make your mum agree with using the dinner table as a workbase, and when did you get out of the cave ???
That table was only £120 from IKEA 👍 can just sand and paint it if it gets messed up 👌.