I just bought a 2003 Camry with 140,000 miles as my winter beater for work. When I looked at the car this morning before I bought it, I popped the hood and that’s the first thing I noticed. I was able to talk him down a little on the price. I thought to myself….how hard a job can that be? Apparently it’s not hard at all! Thanks for the video!
Where the timing chain cover joins the block, there is a split, or joint, in the mating surface in front of and behind the timing chain. Good idea to use RTV, Hondabond etc in these two areas to help ensure a great seal. Great video, anybody can do this job just be prepared for hurdles to pop up like they always do like PCV pipe breaking...ask me how I know :) But, bright side I changed my valve while I was at it which was very much needed lol!!
Thanks for the video, Dan. I'm about to do this job this weekend. It was pretty obvious this was going to be simple and straightforward, but I like to double check to make sure there aren't any gotchas I overlooked before I do something for the first time. Luckily I've already prepared for the brittle coil connecter clips and have some new ones on the way. Alternatively, if you aren't replacing the coils while you're in there, you can carefully pull them out without disconnecting the connectors. Pro tip: May be a good idea to clean off as much of the sludge buildup on the outside as you can before you remove the cover. Thanks again!
You can take the coils out without disconnecting the wiring. You just need to remove the bolt that fastens the harness to the engine and then pull the first coil closest to the harness, then the furthest, and then you'll have enough slack to pull the last 2.
@@DuckDuckDad....... thanks duckieduckdaddy for the tip I'm doing this project today and I don't really want to spend extra if I don't have to so I'm just ordering the gasket.
@@DuckDuckDadit went great..... Finish on time for my son to take his car to work in the morning ... Thanks again..... I noticed the connectors were already broken. That's the new project next week ... You are the man Mr Duckie..... Good bless you...!!
I will say the felpro gasket I used seemed to be "wide enough" to be slightly pushed into the grooves on the cover and stay located while I maneuvered the cover back into position. Don't forget to put a good dab of RTV/Honda bond is a good choice sealant on the the chain side of the head where the maufacturing machined lines on in the head meet which are located parallel with the cam chain in front and back on the head.
I'm pretty sure this is where my leak is coming from. Oil actually pools up on the thing in front of the part he took off. (I know very little about cars.) Money is stupid tight right now and this job seems pretty straightforward. I'm just not 100 percent sure that's where the leak is and I don't wanna waste money on a misdiagnosis. Anyone have thoughts on this???
Depending on the age of the vehicle, this is a very likely source for an oil leak, especially if you’re seeing oil there. Even if it’s not the only source, it’s likely one of them. And even if it’s not, it will be soon. You really can’t go wrong changing the valve cover gasket on an older vehicle, especially when it isn’t too difficult and you’re doing the labor yourself. You might also consider any other easy “while you’re there” work as well - like changing the plugs and coils. Pro tip: If you’re not changing the coils, you can avoid disconnecting them from their wiring connectors by removing the bolt for the wiring harness from the engine, then removing the coil closets to that harness bolt, then the furthest, which should then leave you enough slack to pull the middle 2 coils . If you are replacing the coils, go ahead and order new connectors before you start, because the plastic will be very brittle and you will break most, if not all of them, when disconnecting them.
I just bought a 2003 Camry with 140,000 miles as my winter beater for work. When I looked at the car this morning before I bought it, I popped the hood and that’s the first thing I noticed. I was able to talk him down a little on the price. I thought to myself….how hard a job can that be? Apparently it’s not hard at all! Thanks for the video!
Where the timing chain cover joins the block, there is a split, or joint, in the mating surface in front of and behind the timing chain. Good idea to use RTV, Hondabond etc in these two areas to help ensure a great seal. Great video, anybody can do this job just be prepared for hurdles to pop up like they always do like PCV pipe breaking...ask me how I know :) But, bright side I changed my valve while I was at it which was very much needed lol!!
Old car problems haha
Thanks man, I did by my self watching this video, so helpful.
Thanks so much very helpful 😀
Thanks
Thanks for the video, Dan. I'm about to do this job this weekend. It was pretty obvious this was going to be simple and straightforward, but I like to double check to make sure there aren't any gotchas I overlooked before I do something for the first time. Luckily I've already prepared for the brittle coil connecter clips and have some new ones on the way. Alternatively, if you aren't replacing the coils while you're in there, you can carefully pull them out without disconnecting the connectors.
Pro tip: May be a good idea to clean off as much of the sludge buildup on the outside as you can before you remove the cover. Thanks again!
The coils will not come out all the way unless the connections are freed. His connector plugs all broke...
You can take the coils out without disconnecting the wiring. You just need to remove the bolt that fastens the harness to the engine and then pull the first coil closest to the harness, then the furthest, and then you'll have enough slack to pull the last 2.
@@DuckDuckDad....... thanks duckieduckdaddy for the tip I'm doing this project today and I don't really want to spend extra if I don't have to so I'm just ordering the gasket.
@@rodv.4726How did it go? Were you able to pull it off without disconnecting the wiring and breaking all the connectors?
@@DuckDuckDadit went great..... Finish on time for my son to take his car to work in the morning ... Thanks again..... I noticed the connectors were already broken. That's the new project next week ... You are the man Mr Duckie..... Good bless you...!!
I will say the felpro gasket I used seemed to be "wide enough" to be slightly pushed into the grooves on the cover and stay located while I maneuvered the cover back into position. Don't forget to put a good dab of RTV/Honda bond is a good choice sealant on the the chain side of the head where the maufacturing machined lines on in the head meet which are located parallel with the cam chain in front and back on the head.
That’s why u shouldn’t use an impact. At least break it w a ratchet n then impact.
Do you need to do anything about broken connectors for the ignition coils? Or they ok?
The connectors will be ok I had my like that for more than 3 years and it ok
@@ricardoruiz4901 I ended up just leaving them connected and pulling the coils out that way worked fine
I'm pretty sure this is where my leak is coming from. Oil actually pools up on the thing in front of the part he took off. (I know very little about cars.) Money is stupid tight right now and this job seems pretty straightforward. I'm just not 100 percent sure that's where the leak is and I don't wanna waste money on a misdiagnosis. Anyone have thoughts on this???
Depending on the age of the vehicle, this is a very likely source for an oil leak, especially if you’re seeing oil there. Even if it’s not the only source, it’s likely one of them. And even if it’s not, it will be soon. You really can’t go wrong changing the valve cover gasket on an older vehicle, especially when it isn’t too difficult and you’re doing the labor yourself. You might also consider any other easy “while you’re there” work as well - like changing the plugs and coils.
Pro tip: If you’re not changing the coils, you can avoid disconnecting them from their wiring connectors by removing the bolt for the wiring harness from the engine, then removing the coil closets to that harness bolt, then the furthest, which should then leave you enough slack to pull the middle 2 coils . If you are replacing the coils, go ahead and order new connectors before you start, because the plastic will be very brittle and you will break most, if not all of them, when disconnecting them.