⬇️Scotty’s Top DIY Tools: 1. Bluetooth Scan Tool: amzn.to/2nfvmaD 2. Cheap Scan Tool: amzn.to/2D8Tvae 3. Professional Socket Set: amzn.to/2Bzmccg 4. Wrench Set: amzn.to/2kmBaOU 5. No Charging Required Car Jump Starter: amzn.to/2CthnUU 6. Battery Pack Car Jump Starter: amzn.to/2nrc6qR If you don’t want to listen to me or have a high performance or off-road vehicle: K&N Air Filter: amzn.to/2A7qXgK ⬇Things used in this video: 1. K&N Air Filter: amzn.to/2A7qXgK 2. Common Sense 3. 4k Camera: amzn.to/2HkjavH 4. Camera Microphone: amzn.to/2Evn167 5. Camera Tripod: amzn.to/2Jwog8S 6. My computer for editing / uploading: amzn.to/2uUZ3lo 7. Video editing software: amzn.to/2jv5Fhf 8. Thumbnail software: amzn.to/2k7tz6C 🛠Check out my Amazon Garage to see what I use every day and highly recommend ► goo.gl/rwYt2y 🔥Scotty Shirts and Merch ► goo.gl/pTAeca Subscribe and hit the notification bell! ► goo.gl/CFismN Scotty on Social: Facebook ► facebook.com/scottymechanic/ Instagram ► instagram.com/scotty_the_mechanic/ Twitter ► twitter.com/Scottymechanic?lang=en
QUICK TIP: Use a Sharpie pen to write the date and the mileage that the filter was changed on the side of the new filter when you change it. That way you don't have to guess how long it's been on the car.
From a long term K&N employee... Ever since Goldman Sachs Merchant Banking Division bought the company, many of the raw parts have been sourced and manufactured in China. The cloth (filtering membrane) is nothing like how it used to be. It’s more or less a marketing company now selling on its past reputation and history.
I have a 1997 4 Runner. The K&N filter I have is as old as the car. I have no complaints about the filter. The engine has 391k miles on it and is still running just fine.
That's too bad. The filter I have is 20 years, 200k miles and works like a champ. The only issue I've had is trying to remember where I put the kit when I go to clean it. Not having to decide on which filter to buy every year and when it should be changed and finding the proper size has been great.
Sad . . . they decided to follow Fram' footsteps. Back in the day Fram was #1 then they quickly moved overseas to a bunch of backwards countries and deliberately ruined their product. I know 2 of my engines had been ruined by Fram oil filters in the 80s / 90s.
When I first saw you on UTube, I thought you were just another nut on here. But, after watching you on several more videos, I’m beginning to think you’re one of the smartest mechanics I’ve seen. Lots of good videos. Keep up the good work.
me too, just got a sweet 2006 Camry, my mechanic is an hour and a half away but so good, we tailored our search to the area he is located. He advised us through the whole process. Oh my how we old men (I'm old) do carry on. Scotty has also personally save me thousands too. Oh, as an addendum, my sweetheart is very cautious, loves scotty and when I found a 2003 "nice looking" Chevy impala, she simply said..."Well what does Scotty say, I just about died as we watched a scotty video couple nights before, where he said he doesn't like them. hilarious.
I've been watching vids on filters for months learning. This video is great for two reasons. It explains exactly what you should do and shows proof why on the OEM pleats. The other is the oil on filters and how it clogs the air flow and ruins a very needed sensor. Pay attention all! Thanks my friend.
Stock air intake systems are tuned to give a boost to power around the 2-3k rev region on petrol cars while losing power at the lower and higher rev bands. The way pressure waves travel through the intake system, resonances can build up and this can actually be beneficial for NA cars where, at certain revs, the intake will *push* more air into the cylinders than it would ordinarily do. Narrowing of the air intake pipe (impedance control) is used to cause a higher air speed for forcing more air into the cylinders, but this reduces the capacity for instantaneous air flow. It improves efficiency in the daily driving rev range on NA engines but at the cost of some potential power. Tuning intake systems requires a lot of knowledge, maths and computer modelling to get right, so whacking any old aftermarket filter system onto the car will likely end up with not much gain for a high cost. For those that like to get the revs up to redline and/or use the vehicle at the highest power point, a well-designed after market intake system and filter can actually boost power by a few % (in the region of 1%-4% depending on the vehicle). This is because they usually have shorter and larger diameter intake pipes that have less 90º bends. More air can flow and it can flow more instantaneously. This usually improves throttle response too. However, there is a cost. They will usually decrease power in the lower to mid rev range, decreasing the efficiency of the engine, as it was specifically designed to work best at a specific air flow rate and rev range. I'll mention cold air intakes too, that they can improve volumetric efficiency by having a higher mass of air in the cylinders. Simply put, cooler air is more dense, so you can fit more air into the cylinders for a bigger bang with more fuel. Most filter systems are designed with this in mind so aftermarket filters won't usually improve volumetric efficiency by much. *tl;dr - If you just want to do daily driving, stick with the stock air system but think about the possibility of a better quality air filter. If you're going to mod your car, you probably know all of the above already (except the maths involved in tuning an intake system and the acoustics involved). Perhaps something interesting to learn about.*
It's the reason automotive designers and manufacturers pay engineers big money. KIS and effective. OEM filters are the way to go. Anything else throws of the "balance" of the system.
You didn’t mention the volumetric efficiency with a paper filter in a controlled environment. Tests suggest that you gain horse power when the ambient temperature drops below 10deg Celsius. The air molecules shrink and therefore more of them can flow into the combustion chambers and ultimately you get more power increasing horse manure by 30%.
Man, I replaced the air filter in my 1999 Mercedes E320, and there were leaves and Reese's peanut butter cup wrapper in there... I guess that's were my childhood went...
Im a mechanic and you wouldn’t believe the stuff inside air boxes. Snail shells, mud, holes. No one ever cleans them out (we do at the shop) some of the debris is even past the filter
SevenFortyOne brought to you by the CEO who thinks Illegal 👽 Aliens have a right to be here living free . I always thought that snooty place was way overpriced but now none of the family will ever go near one again. They can sell their swill to their new clients.
I have been using the K and N air filters for a very long time on many different car engines 4 and 6 cylinders. If you follow the directions and don't over oil the air filter. I find my engines ran better and the sound changed. When going full throttle. Its worth every dime. I cleaned and re oiled my air filter every other oil change. Shawn
Just like cleanable furnace ones they have less resistance, but less filtration. They choice it yours. As long as it is not a hybrid you can get away with it.
I recently cleaned and re oiled mines after 6 months. That was my bad. Car is running smooth like butter now. But I hope I didn't over oil it. I might have. I'll be cleaning MAF sensor just in case lol
Boy Scotty, just checked my air filter wow I sure could use that new one. Lol. No seriously, thank you for all your great videos. I grew up in a small repair shop my father ran and watching you reminds me of my dad and all those good times.
I learned my lesson on sticking with the factory air filter. I bought an aftermarket one since they did not have my factory Ford . Now other than my factory part how old is the company in high regards to their quality. Come to find out they just had better advertisers. Turn on the manufacturer one suck itself into the air tube going to my throttle body. When I took the round part apart on the outside of the air pipe it was supposed to lock in place. Lucky enough to the parts store that I deal with we have a good working arrangement. They will give me discounts on everything I buy. When I showed the manager that are filter he went to the computer found what I needed and had it shipped to my house for free. I put that in and never had a problem again.
It's possible, I've seen quite a few messed up from over/improper oiling or from excessive debris getting through the filter (K&N flows better but also allows larger particles through). In addition, if you send in a sample of your oil to a lab to be analyzed once it is used up while running an OEM air filter and then do another sample with a K&N you will come back with higher silicon content indicative of extra dust and dirt making it not only into your engine but bad enough even to contaminate your oil. I've run several K&N filters over the years and never had any trouble with them, sensors, or even extra engine wear but I've also sold those vehicles around the 200k mile mark rather than stretching them for the whole life of the vehicle. K&N air filters also don't make economic sense unless you are planning on keeping it a very long time. Figure they run about $60 on average, where you could buy an OEM air filter for $15, and then you need to buy their recharge kits ($15 and lasts for 4-5 cleanings). I get 15-20k miles out of an air filter before replacing it, so I'd have to run over 100k miles for a K&N to catch up with the cost of OEM filters. There is also a particular method to cleaning them properly, you want to make sure they're perfectly dry after cleaning and before adding oil, and then once you oil them you want to let them sit to let the oil soak in (I prefer overnight). If you're as picky as I am about making sure that filter is 100% dry it could be sitting out in the sun all day, being rotated every few hours, and still not be totally dried out
Thanks again Scotty! I switched to K&N engine oil filters several years ago for my 2004 Camry and let my K&N friendly wash it earlier than recommended by K&N and have been very happy with the results. I now have 200k + on the odometer. I live in a zone where the air is pretty clean except for spring pollen. Thanks for all the very valuable advice you have given us “Scotty Followers” in the past but I really love my sweet K&N…..unless you buy me a new Camry.
My experience with K&N cleanable filters is that no matter how well you clean them, they are still going to retain some level of dirt and grime. This will eventually built up over time despite periodic cleaning and will progressively cause deteriorating performance. As Scotty said, oil and grease is not supposed to be in an intake meant for cold air so putting in an oiled filter is counterintuitive to basic mechanics. Overall stick with oem paper filters, they are the simplest and safest option.
David Prokity. My new, 76 Pontiac Firebird, Formula 400, had a strange combination paper/oil & foam air filter. The oil/foam combo was on the outside, the paper on the inside. You had to clean foam then, re-oil it. Was a mess, and I ditched it for paper only filter. I could have done a lot of easily available performance modifications to the weak, "smoger stock," Pontiac 400 ci motor, and turbo 400 trans. - I did put in a "shift kit" that made it jump to life. Would've done the cam, heads, headers, intake manifold - it could have been a mover!
I was just going to put a K&N air filter in my Ford 2020 2.7 turbo. After watching your you tube video, I am going to stay stock. I really enjoy your you tube info. Thanks so much!
I've bought several cars and bikes that had K&N Filters, which I changed for a standard paper filter everytime. The savings were tempting, but I don't reckon I'd every be able to get them 100% clean and I'm not interested in anything less. Great videos, thanks.
I was also a little surprised when he said it was for surface area, round filters have a ton of surface area. But they don't allow for easy mounting away from the top of the engine and can't be tucked away in neat little boxes.
I have been using K&N air filters for a long time and its a very good air filter, keep them clean and lightly oil them and you will always be good I have never had an issue with these to this date. ☺👍
Love ya' Scotty! I don't chance the oiling process with my K & N. I just pay the extra for a NEW filter instead of oiling it, about every 25, 000 miles. The performance is improved and better gas mileage with the K & N.
GM recommends a filter change at 22,500. My K& N is just starting to get dark at 22,000, so I change it anyway. My engine oil always looks great even at oil change time (I do use Mobil 1 full synthetic)! My stock GM oil filter (cartridge type) looks great, too! K & N air filters are truly the best! My car has 118,500 miles on it, and is running like new!
being a good mechanic does not mean his political polices are also good for the nation! yes, I know, you were just joking! But on the other hand, he couldn't be worse than the current administration!
This is actually the best and most accurate assessment of a quality air filter I’ve seen. I’ve been saying the same thing to mechanics for years. I hope many mechanics watch this! RYCO made to OEM specs or better!
Scotty, YOU ROCK! I've watched a lot of your vids, I'm a pretty decent mechanic myself,(by necessity,lol) and love just about anything with an engine or motor of any kind. You are so logical and down to earth; really appreciate your videos! And I agree about the K&N: they are excellent filters, but they do have a bit of a 'learning curve', and as you pointed out about the MAF, a mistake can be expensive. Like I said; logical, reasoned and thorough... Keep the vids comin'!
I own a 2006 (done 360,000+ km) Subaru Legacy (Gen 4) and for years suffered from MAF problems... after a lot of investigation, I found that the OEM Subaru filter does not fit closely enough, and when decelerating the back pressure in the airbox tubing is enough to suck the filter forward (less than a milimetre) and allow minute particles to get past and interfere with the MAF. As soon as I tried a K&N filter, everything changed... no more MAF problems because the K&N filter has rubber edges sealing the system. And more mid-range power too, thanks to the better flow. The only advice I would give is DO NOT wash the filter, just install a new one every 20,000km. Other folk I know with Subaru's have had MAF oiling up problems after washing and re-oiling their filters. BTW, I am not paid by K&N, I just want to share the only solution I found to Gen4 Subaru Legacy's biggest bugbear, their MAF problems.
I've preached about OEM filters for years...but it mostly falls on deaf ears. My car has dual turbos...the turbos set how much air I can pull at any given time and I'm pretty sure the engineers spent thousands of hours and millions of dollars making sure that OEM filter worked the best for my car. If I were doing hardcore off-road racing, I might consider a K&N filter. I'm not...therefore I'm using OEM. Thank you for speaking the truth.
No they don't - they just contract out the design work to industry specialists. That is, they pick a brand they respect, and say, hey we can pay you for some R & D using our vehicles, and we'll buy the filters from you? Nothing is built in-house for the last 100 years. All parts are contracted out. OEM companies coordinate the design, coordinate the production and delivery to plants, and conduct the final assembly. You don't think GM, Toyota or BMW actually builds their own air filters in some sweatshop in Tokyo, Chicago or Spartanburg, do you?
PsychoFisho You are wrong..a lot of stuff is built in-house, especially engines. They won't make small stuff like filters and spark plugs but they don't contract out everything.
They don’t waste thousands of hours and millions of dollars playing with the fucking air filter. They just go with the cheapest route that meets design requirements
K&N checked these map sensor claims and they've never seen a damaged sensor due to there filter. They have a million mile guarantee for the filters life. Cleaning isn't difficult and the cleaning fluid is a great degreaser around the house. Get the big bottle! 😉
K&N is guaranteeing that the filter won’t fall apart for a million miles. They are NOT guaranteeing your engine will last a million miles using their filter. And of course, nobody who wants max engine life uses a K&N. They simply are very poor at actual filtering.
I was almost convinced to buy the K and N Super Duper Flow. Flows more air? Traps less dirt! I get the plain ol' Motorcraft air filters for Cabin and Engine for my 13 Ford Escape.
K&N Filters do improve your engine performance over a restrictive paper filter, so I would say it depends on the type of car or truck that you drive, getting a K&N can be the best choice, but not always. A properly oiled K&N will never damage your engine or sensors. I have never experienced a clogging issue that is more than your normal paper filter that will get dirty and clog as well.
I recently took delivery on a brand new all electric car. One of the things I will not miss after decades of gas car ownership is all the maintenance. We’re used to it, having grown up around cars all our lives. But the sheer number of components and parts that go into a gas car, and all the maintenance and repairs are just so much work, and so much expense. I will not miss that.
You wait till something goes wrong with it then, and I’ve seen customers reduced to tears at the price of a set of tyres for one particular bmw, fools and their money… 🙄
I always refer to your advise Scotty. You say it like it is, no bull crap. YOu Rock bud. I live in Spring Tx. and I love your show. Keep it going FOREVER.
Thanks for the great info about air filters, Scotty! I have been using those aftermarket ones (usually Fram), and I didn't realize the OEM filters are so much better for filtration. Well, I know I am probably commenting too late to have a chance for winning the OEM air filter, but I have enjoyed watching your great videos for quite a long time now, and I continue to watch them and learn more and more useful things about car repair. Thanks, Scotty! :)
They have done airflow analysis on OEM vs. K&N and K&N flows more air. For someone that does NOT live in a dusty environment, it seems K&N will allow the engine to breathe easier and not have to be cleaned often (perhaps once a year would suffice). I tend to agree with Scotty if the car has stock exhaust, then increasing airflow doesn't really accomplish much, but surprisingly he didn't mention anything about that. So for racing and for cars with aftermarket high flow exhausts, K&N is the way to go. If you just have a stock exhaust on your street car, then an OEM air filter should be fine and save you some money.
:) Loving the videos Scotty. I'm a K&N type of guy. Yet, I don't clean the K&N with what they offer. A vacuum and Marvel oil does me fine or wash it then use the Marvel. I can't say I won't use the original equipment. Because, always had in the past. And, I kept my vehicles for around 14 years each on average. Just thought I would add my two cents, Scotty. Again, love the videos, 101st.
Good Morning Scotty! Another great video👍! Could you do a vid on using thicker oil during the summer, even if its just a 1 min vid. Hope you have a Happy Monday😀
My 1981 Mercedes and my 1991 Ford f150 both use a round filter. My 2005 Chevy Silverado uses a rectangular filter. I thought the rectangular ones were actually not as good. So thank you for educating me.
OEM IS THE BEST. I've compared the ones from the auto parts stores and the oem ones and the oem are much stronger, have more material and last longer. OEM is the way to go.
Not all aftermarket filters are the same. Never buy “cheap” but a quality aftermarket filter will be as good and cheaper than the OEM filter from the manufacturer.
I Scotty I not a car man but your explanation about filter are great .Every week my knowledge of cars expands because of your episodes.Keep up the good work.👍
k&n filters in my oppinion are worth it, if you know what you are doing, when you are cleaning them, and they pay out on the 2nd-3rd time you clean them. So if you are going to keep your car for a long time I think they are the best bang for the buck.
black power those filters filter less of the thin particle dust, so you're allowing more in. the only positive is less of a restriction which is not really worth it if you are wanting to keep your engine in good condition because dust will eventually scratch your cylinder walls or clog up your valves especially when you live in an area where you see dust just gazing across the road here and there
20502chris my sister didnt clean the one on her jeep for 3 years and it was black as tar, jeep still runs like a top and has no issues. She has the cold air intake, if that doesnt scream quality then I don't know what does
20502chris Clean the filter more often when driving in dusty conditions. My Honda has over 200,000 miles and I only bought 1 filter. Car runs like a champ.
Great video Scotty! I’m glad I found your youtube channel. You’ve grown to be one of my favorite mechanics in a short time. Thanks for all the expert advise.
Scotty I love your videos and you seriously rock for all your help. Glad to see you telling the truth about KN filters. Too many people don’t do that and end up trashing their MAP. Keep up the cool videos
Thank u for that insight. It escaped me that the aftermarket filters have less paper and less creases than the on one. Thank u for the lesson. Take care Scotty.
I find K&N filters let more dust past... They are probably designed for higher air flow but that means less filtration at the same time. This is reflected in used oil analysis' I've seen on cars running them. The Silicone levels are always much higher than where an OEM paper filter is used, which suggests sand/dirt actually makes it all the way past the rings into the crankcase when a K&N filter is used in dusty areas, and this would be a big problem over the long term!
Jacob O'Brien - Finally someone agrees with what I've found happening in the past. They are great for large bore engines such as V8's or cars with 4 or 6 cylinders that get driven hard & fast where the owner changes the oil & cleans the various air intake sensors often. Probably does an engine rebuild or swap over every few years also ! For 4 & 6 cylinder cars that are driven sedately by Mr Joe Average, they are a waste of money and time.
Tim Areskog Spot on! They might make sense for a track day where they offer more air flow on a relatively dust free bitumin track, but 90% of K&N users are everyday drivers putting them in their daily drivers thinking they are increasing performance... Those kind of drivers generally aren't aware of the increase in absasive particulates being added to their oil and half of those people won't know how to service their cars to make sure their oil is always clean.
Because a diesel always runs at wide open throttle, you can't use these oiled filters on them. They will encounter what is called "dusting" and the engine will be toast.
Yar Nunya Wide open air flow, on diesel engine what does change is the full injiection ammount, from 300:1 ratio to 10:1, meanwhile in gas engines is almost constant on 15:1
Cant say I ever had to do that using a K&N filter sure I clean them and do clean the air mass sensor of course regular oil changes have 0 problems no engine rebuild etc on my 05 GT.
Yup...it really does make sense to use OEM for quality filtration.👍🏽🇺🇸🇯🇲☺ Ps ...i still love my K&N filter also I just make sure too use a little bit of oil on the filter.🤣😂
Scotty I was a k&n junkie because like yourself I'm cheap But I got your point and will definitely go OEM starting today Thank you for all your genuine advise
@@timewithchaplainken3916 the oil is what actually catches most of the fine particulates. By letting it dry out you are reducing it's filtration capacity by probably 30-40%. You're basically letting a bunch of dust and dirt into your engine.
Fabulous tutorial. Unless parts are cost prohibitive, I always opt for O.E M. Parts, particularly on the Japanese vehicles. I'm saying this having worked as a Product Manager for one of the biggest Automotive Aftermarket Mfgs.
When I saw the oil part on the K&N, I’m glad I stuck to using STP on my Impala limited LT. I recently changed mine since it needed it, the acceleration feels like a nice ride
Thank Scottie for giving me the tip about the air filters. I learned something about the OEM air filter. Keep giving us Scotty all this important information appreciated.
The whole thing with too much oil messing up a MAF is a myth. K&N has whole videos on the things they did to bust that myth. In fact, most of the MAF sensors they took in from the dealers where actually functioning just fine & found that some of the MAF sensors that where bad was contaminated by silicates; K&N filter oil has no silicates. The silicone used to hold the sensor together would seep into the sensor if the sensor should come apart. Just briefly, I will say, K&N put filter oil in an air brush & sprayed a MAF sensor with it while a car was running and it did almost nothing. FYI, some OEM filters do in fact have some kind of oil in them. But go to the official K&N website for more details. I was not paid by K&N to put this up, I just so happen to be a fan of K&N ans have had great experiences with them.
Of course K&N would try to pervert the truth about their primary marketing shtick. I have a very simple question for you. Have you ever smelled oil? I mean is it or is it not smell-able? Of course it is. This is because oil particles become airborne, and do so at a much greater rate when massive amounts of air are being pulled through a medium designed to have maximum surface area and covered in oil. It is inescapable fact that oil deposits on everything downstream of an oiled filter. That does not mean your MAF will fail immediately, of course you could pull one out and it is still functional but that is no proof at all that it doesn't build up oil particles, and soot trapped by the oil, at an accelerated rate (compared to no oil or soot except the minor amount when you shut the engine off, for example that you eventually see coating your throttle body. The fact is, MAF sensors do get dirty. You could say that the oiled filter has superior filtration which slows that down, and it is true in many cases, except that the oil deposits can cause what contamination that does get through, to cling to everything. Further the test of spraying a MAF with oil and seeing no immediate change is not at all evidence of the long term effect. It would be nice if you stuck to indepedent 3rd party qualified testing before jumping to conclusions. Marketing departments spend all day on things like this and are specifically non-trustworthy.
@Jonny Lightning So true!! it happened to me last week, I just learned this from Scotty! Have a 96 Toyota T100 380k miles and got this code from MAF sensor been bad, just replaced the air filter to a OEM paper filter, now code is gone!! The 1st time it happened 2 years ago and replaced the MAF sensor (didn't know) but suspicious as to why it didn't last this time!
Well, I had K &N in my I30 for more than 20 years or is acting good, but you world have to be careful about the oil build up in MAF , after 20 years that I can sense the car not as efficient and drinks a lot of gas so I decide to clean up the MAF sensor the car runs way better. Of course there's a factor that it is a long time so there might be other factors involved.
Not so much with the MAF but in dusty conditions the oil does work it way onto the throttle body and build up occurs. Then it runs shitty. May be in a city with no gravel k&n may be fine. They definately are no good for off road.
Stinky Cheese k&n also has published numerous research papers on their oil and MAF sensors. You should look it up and read it. They have found that in some cases the silicone potting around the MAF has failed causing the MAF to be damaged not due to their oil. I had a k&n filter on my precious car for years and I just installed one on my new car and will continue to use their drop in filters.. no MAF issues on previous car.
I’ve learned a lot from u I have a 2011 GMC Acadia that’s got over 120,000 miles on it. Gas mileage in town is really bad high way I get about 19 mpg I’ve been able to work on my car more because of u. Thank you so much love your show and everything you do
![The ULTIMATE Air Filter Test [Engineer Tested]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RdbFAG5xbyY/mqdefault.jpg)
![The ULTIMATE Air Filter Test [Engineer Tested]](/img/tr.png)
⬇️Scotty’s Top DIY Tools:
1. Bluetooth Scan Tool: amzn.to/2nfvmaD
2. Cheap Scan Tool: amzn.to/2D8Tvae
3. Professional Socket Set: amzn.to/2Bzmccg
4. Wrench Set: amzn.to/2kmBaOU
5. No Charging Required Car Jump Starter: amzn.to/2CthnUU
6. Battery Pack Car Jump Starter: amzn.to/2nrc6qR
If you don’t want to listen to me or have a high performance or off-road vehicle:
K&N Air Filter: amzn.to/2A7qXgK
⬇Things used in this video:
1. K&N Air Filter: amzn.to/2A7qXgK
2. Common Sense
3. 4k Camera: amzn.to/2HkjavH
4. Camera Microphone: amzn.to/2Evn167
5. Camera Tripod: amzn.to/2Jwog8S
6. My computer for editing / uploading: amzn.to/2uUZ3lo
7. Video editing software: amzn.to/2jv5Fhf
8. Thumbnail software: amzn.to/2k7tz6C
🛠Check out my Amazon Garage to see what I use every day and highly recommend ► goo.gl/rwYt2y
🔥Scotty Shirts and Merch ► goo.gl/pTAeca
Subscribe and hit the notification bell! ► goo.gl/CFismN
Scotty on Social:
Facebook ► facebook.com/scottymechanic/
Instagram ► instagram.com/scotty_the_mechanic/
Twitter ► twitter.com/Scottymechanic?lang=en
Scotty Kilmer is the 2nd gen is 350 a quality vehicle?
Scotty Kilmer What is your take on "plasma" spark plugs and/or ignition systems? Also what do you think about reusable/washable oil filters?
I love your videos! Send a filter my way!
WIX generally makes a great aftermarket filter if you cant find an OEM
Scotty I’m sorry but running a K&N on an off-road vehicle is a horrible idea even when running outerwear
QUICK TIP: Use a Sharpie pen to write the date and the mileage that the filter was changed on the side of the new filter when you change it. That way you don't have to guess how long it's been on the car.
Late to the parade but your suggestion is great.
Would be nice if people did that .
I just change them every oil change
@@deejeff8846 I thought they only needed to be change around ~15k miles?
Do it with your home light bulbs. 👍
From a long term K&N employee...
Ever since Goldman Sachs Merchant Banking Division bought the company, many of the raw parts have been sourced and manufactured in China.
The cloth (filtering membrane) is nothing like how it used to be.
It’s more or less a marketing company now selling on its past reputation and history.
Good to know !!
Thank you very much for your insight and honesty.
I have a 1997 4 Runner. The K&N filter I have is as old as the car. I have no complaints about the filter. The engine has 391k miles on it and is still running just fine.
That's too bad. The filter I have is 20 years, 200k miles and works like a champ. The only issue I've had is trying to remember where I put the kit when I go to clean it. Not having to decide on which filter to buy every year and when it should be changed and finding the proper size has been great.
Sad . . . they decided to follow Fram' footsteps. Back in the day Fram was #1 then they quickly moved overseas to a bunch of backwards countries and deliberately ruined their product. I know 2 of my engines had been ruined by Fram oil filters in the 80s / 90s.
When I first saw you on UTube, I thought you were just another nut on here. But, after watching you on several more videos, I’m beginning to think you’re one of the smartest mechanics I’ve seen. Lots of good videos. Keep up the good work.
Hes been one if the best mechanics for years... This man has personally saved me thousands
me too, just got a sweet 2006 Camry, my mechanic is an hour and a half away but so good, we tailored our search to the area he is located. He advised us through the whole process. Oh my how we old men (I'm old) do carry on. Scotty has also personally save me thousands too. Oh, as an addendum, my sweetheart is very cautious, loves scotty and when I found a 2003 "nice looking" Chevy impala, she simply said..."Well what does Scotty say, I just about died as we watched a scotty video couple nights before, where he said he doesn't like them. hilarious.
He’s been on TV since 1946, so duh
Same story here. Great videos
He's been a mechanic for over 50 years and now he's got the nuts to tell you the cold hard truths about cars that no one else will
Never really could get a definitive answer about OEM vs Aftermarket Air Filters. You saved me some bucks Scotty, Thanks!
This is the best page on car mechanics I've ever seen!
“And you’re wasting money!” And Starbucks appears. I’m dead
Scotty is hilarious, I watch almost as much for the humor has I do to get educated
It's the universal symbol for wasted money
I know, that was a pretty good dig. LOL
then stay dead *DABS*
Right on the money. Yesterday was my first visit to StarBitches and bought a drink for $4 and it was filled with Ice. A waste of money.
Wix or Purolator make a good many of OEM filters. Either are excellent.
I've been watching vids on filters for months learning. This video is great for two reasons. It explains exactly what you should do and shows proof why on the OEM pleats. The other is the oil on filters and how it clogs the air flow and ruins a very needed sensor. Pay attention all! Thanks my friend.
Stock air intake systems are tuned to give a boost to power around the 2-3k rev region on petrol cars while losing power at the lower and higher rev bands. The way pressure waves travel through the intake system, resonances can build up and this can actually be beneficial for NA cars where, at certain revs, the intake will *push* more air into the cylinders than it would ordinarily do. Narrowing of the air intake pipe (impedance control) is used to cause a higher air speed for forcing more air into the cylinders, but this reduces the capacity for instantaneous air flow. It improves efficiency in the daily driving rev range on NA engines but at the cost of some potential power.
Tuning intake systems requires a lot of knowledge, maths and computer modelling to get right, so whacking any old aftermarket filter system onto the car will likely end up with not much gain for a high cost.
For those that like to get the revs up to redline and/or use the vehicle at the highest power point, a well-designed after market intake system and filter can actually boost power by a few % (in the region of 1%-4% depending on the vehicle). This is because they usually have shorter and larger diameter intake pipes that have less 90º bends. More air can flow and it can flow more instantaneously. This usually improves throttle response too. However, there is a cost. They will usually decrease power in the lower to mid rev range, decreasing the efficiency of the engine, as it was specifically designed to work best at a specific air flow rate and rev range.
I'll mention cold air intakes too, that they can improve volumetric efficiency by having a higher mass of air in the cylinders. Simply put, cooler air is more dense, so you can fit more air into the cylinders for a bigger bang with more fuel. Most filter systems are designed with this in mind so aftermarket filters won't usually improve volumetric efficiency by much.
*tl;dr - If you just want to do daily driving, stick with the stock air system but think about the possibility of a better quality air filter. If you're going to mod your car, you probably know all of the above already (except the maths involved in tuning an intake system and the acoustics involved). Perhaps something interesting to learn about.*
It's the reason automotive designers and manufacturers pay engineers big money. KIS and effective. OEM filters are the way to go. Anything else throws of the "balance" of the system.
You didn’t mention the volumetric efficiency with a paper filter in a controlled environment. Tests suggest that you gain horse power when the ambient temperature drops below 10deg Celsius. The air molecules shrink and therefore more of them can flow into the combustion chambers and ultimately you get more power increasing horse manure by 30%.
I watch his entire videos just to see Scotty ring the bell.
Wix & STP had both in my 2013 Prius C. They look exactly like OEM cost around $20 and worked great!
I didn't know the water and oil system. Thank you for the history lesson.
People forget to give the inside of the air box a good clean too before changing the filter.
Paul Morgan I always do that
Man, I replaced the air filter in my 1999 Mercedes E320, and there were leaves and Reese's peanut butter cup wrapper in there... I guess that's were my childhood went...
Yes, I've used a vacuum to get debris out of my air filter box before.
Im a mechanic and you wouldn’t believe the stuff inside air boxes. Snail shells, mud, holes. No one ever cleans them out (we do at the shop) some of the debris is even past the filter
As well as the throttle body
Image of a Starbucks Grande Late enema right when you said "wasting money" = perfect image analogy. thanks for the laugh!
SevenFortyOne brought to you by the CEO who thinks Illegal 👽 Aliens have a right to be here living free . I always thought that snooty place was way overpriced but now none of the family will ever go near one again. They can sell their swill to their new clients.
Merlin Cat what? Your comment makes no fucking sense, I suggest proof reading before hitting submit.
Merlin Cat you've been watching too much fox news snowflake, stay off them drugs, it's turning your brains into mush.
Nybble I guess you don’t get out much do you😋
Yeah, he does a great job with the corner thumbnails :)
As a former auto mechanic, I totally agree with your accuracy!
His videos are not only full of great knowledge, they background pictures makes them hilarious!
*_"Ha ha ha!"_*
(picture of an animal with its mouth open)
I have been using the K and N air filters for a very long time on many different car engines 4 and 6 cylinders. If you follow the directions and don't over oil the air filter. I find my engines ran better and the sound changed. When going full throttle. Its worth every dime. I cleaned and re oiled my air filter every other oil change. Shawn
Just like cleanable furnace ones they have less resistance, but less filtration. They choice it yours. As long as it is not a hybrid you can get away with it.
I recently cleaned and re oiled mines after 6 months. That was my bad. Car is running smooth like butter now. But I hope I didn't over oil it. I might have. I'll be cleaning MAF sensor just in case lol
@@ShieldandBucklerMusicYou'll be buying a new maf soon.
@Markking1678 plenty of thousands of miles and running with it. Still no new maf needed 👍🏾
Boy Scotty, just checked my air filter wow I sure could use that new one. Lol. No seriously, thank you for all your great videos. I grew up in a small repair shop my father ran and watching you reminds me of my dad and all those good times.
Glad to hear it and thanks for the support!
I learned my lesson on sticking with the factory air filter. I bought an aftermarket one since they did not have my factory Ford . Now other than my factory part how old is the company in high regards to their quality. Come to find out they just had better advertisers.
Turn on the manufacturer one suck itself into the air tube going to my throttle body. When I took the round part apart on the outside of the air pipe it was supposed to lock in place. Lucky enough to the parts store that I deal with we have a good working arrangement. They will give me discounts on everything I buy. When I showed the manager that are filter he went to the computer found what I needed and had it shipped to my house for free. I put that in and never had a problem again.
Thanks. I use AEM reusables because they don’t require oil, but I should just use OEM.
Honest Finance I have an aem on my focus, seems to work well. Plus it sounds better.
Honest Finance k&n owns aem
fordfocuszx93 🤣🤣🤣🤣 got them ahhahahah
where’s a good place to get the OEM filters?
@@scrv4 You can order them through Dooxi.They seem to be machined with a degree of care and work quiet well.
Never knew those could effect the mass sensor. Good to know! Thanks Scotty!
It's possible, I've seen quite a few messed up from over/improper oiling or from excessive debris getting through the filter (K&N flows better but also allows larger particles through). In addition, if you send in a sample of your oil to a lab to be analyzed once it is used up while running an OEM air filter and then do another sample with a K&N you will come back with higher silicon content indicative of extra dust and dirt making it not only into your engine but bad enough even to contaminate your oil. I've run several K&N filters over the years and never had any trouble with them, sensors, or even extra engine wear but I've also sold those vehicles around the 200k mile mark rather than stretching them for the whole life of the vehicle.
K&N air filters also don't make economic sense unless you are planning on keeping it a very long time. Figure they run about $60 on average, where you could buy an OEM air filter for $15, and then you need to buy their recharge kits ($15 and lasts for 4-5 cleanings). I get 15-20k miles out of an air filter before replacing it, so I'd have to run over 100k miles for a K&N to catch up with the cost of OEM filters. There is also a particular method to cleaning them properly, you want to make sure they're perfectly dry after cleaning and before adding oil, and then once you oil them you want to let them sit to let the oil soak in (I prefer overnight). If you're as picky as I am about making sure that filter is 100% dry it could be sitting out in the sun all day, being rotated every few hours, and still not be totally dried out
Scotty your the best man !!! When I'm bored or need a information download I go and watch your content! You rock !
Thanks again Scotty! I switched to K&N engine oil filters several years ago for my 2004 Camry and let my K&N friendly wash it earlier than recommended by K&N and have been very happy with the results. I now have 200k + on the odometer. I live in a zone where the air is pretty clean except for spring pollen. Thanks for all the very valuable advice you have given us “Scotty Followers” in the past but I really love my sweet K&N…..unless you buy me a new Camry.
My experience with K&N cleanable filters is that no matter how well you clean them, they are still going to retain some level of dirt and grime. This will eventually built up over time despite periodic cleaning and will progressively cause deteriorating performance. As Scotty said, oil and grease is not supposed to be in an intake meant for cold air so putting in an oiled filter is counterintuitive to basic mechanics. Overall stick with oem paper filters, they are the simplest and safest option.
What about the aFe magnumflow pro dry s performance filter....it's dry doesn't use oil
@@definitionXrp 4 months late bro but I use those on my q50 best upgrade I’ve done no oil no mess same performance as k & n
K&N
Promise better air flow.
Filtration is not the same as paper Filtration
I'm more concerned with my MAF sensor.
Scotty=the best history teacher 👌
For Pleats Sake.
David Prokity. My new, 76 Pontiac Firebird, Formula 400, had a strange combination paper/oil & foam air filter. The oil/foam combo was on the outside, the paper on the inside. You had to clean foam then, re-oil it. Was a mess, and I ditched it for paper only filter. I could have done a lot of easily available performance modifications to the weak, "smoger stock," Pontiac 400 ci motor, and turbo 400 trans. - I did put in a "shift kit" that made it jump to life. Would've done the cam, heads, headers, intake manifold - it could have been a mover!
I agree comPleatly .
I was just going to put a K&N air filter in my Ford 2020 2.7 turbo. After watching your you tube video, I am going to stay stock. I really enjoy your you tube info.
Thanks so much!
I've bought several cars and bikes that had K&N Filters, which I changed for a standard paper filter everytime. The savings were tempting, but I don't reckon I'd every be able to get them 100% clean and I'm not interested in anything less. Great videos, thanks.
Youre the best scotty. Ive learned many things about car stuff coz of you. May you have a very great future ahead for being helpful to people like me.
Can't argue with you on those points, bigger surface area better fuel economy
I was also a little surprised when he said it was for surface area, round filters have a ton of surface area. But they don't allow for easy mounting away from the top of the engine and can't be tucked away in neat little boxes.
I have been using K&N air filters for a long time and its a very good air filter, keep them clean and lightly oil them and you will always be good I have never had an issue with these to this date. ☺👍
Love ya' Scotty! I don't chance the oiling process with my K & N. I just pay the extra for a NEW filter instead of oiling it, about every 25, 000 miles. The performance is improved and better gas mileage with the K & N.
You're throwing money away, it's so easy to do just make sure the filter is fully dry naturally before oiling.
Yep and 25K miles might be extreme depending on use.
GM recommends a filter change at 22,500. My K& N is just starting to get dark at 22,000, so I change it anyway. My engine oil always looks great even at oil change time (I do use Mobil 1 full synthetic)! My stock GM oil filter (cartridge type) looks great, too! K & N air filters are truly the best! My car has 118,500 miles on it, and is running like new!
When you said, “wasting money” and put the Starbucks coffee, I lost it! That was hilarious!
Scotty Kilmer for 2020 president!!
VP LOL
being a good mechanic does not mean his political polices are also good for the nation! yes, I know, you were just joking! But on the other hand, he couldn't be worse than the current administration!
@@nightlightabcd worse than Trump? No way 😂
Today (2019-06-26) Iran said that the White House has mental problems. At least Scotty is very healthy there.
He'd need hundreds of millions to run a campaign, Tanner. Set up a Go Fund Me account for him; that would be a start if legal.
this is the only channel that can give trusty information. Thanks Mr. Kilmer.
Thanks Scotty for all of your great tips. You're an oldschool honest mechanic✌😄
This is actually the best and most accurate assessment of a quality air filter I’ve seen. I’ve been saying the same thing to mechanics for years. I hope many mechanics watch this! RYCO made to OEM specs or better!
Thanks for the heads up on the filter media choice's. Will stay with the OEM........
Love this guy, learned something every time have a Suzuki with over 260000 these videos have saved me a ton of money. Thanks Scotty
"Once they become impregnated with a lot of dirty stuff you gotta replace em" - Scott Kilmer
Lmao 😂
This is very sound advice indeed
Great job I always use MANN-FILTER never had any problems
Scotty, YOU ROCK! I've watched a lot of your vids, I'm a pretty decent mechanic myself,(by necessity,lol) and love just about anything with an engine or motor of any kind. You are so logical and down to earth; really appreciate your videos! And I agree about the K&N: they are excellent filters, but they do have a bit of a 'learning curve', and as you pointed out about the MAF, a mistake can be expensive. Like I said; logical, reasoned and thorough... Keep the vids comin'!
I always appreciate the guy who tells you what no one else is saying! I’m usually that guy, and people hate me for it but I don’t care.
I own a 2006 (done 360,000+ km) Subaru Legacy (Gen 4) and for years suffered from MAF problems... after a lot of investigation, I found that the OEM Subaru filter does not fit closely enough, and when decelerating the back pressure in the airbox tubing is enough to suck the filter forward (less than a milimetre) and allow minute particles to get past and interfere with the MAF.
As soon as I tried a K&N filter, everything changed... no more MAF problems because the K&N filter has rubber edges sealing the system. And more mid-range power too, thanks to the better flow.
The only advice I would give is DO NOT wash the filter, just install a new one every 20,000km. Other folk I know with Subaru's have had MAF oiling up problems after washing and re-oiling their filters.
BTW, I am not paid by K&N, I just want to share the only solution I found to Gen4 Subaru Legacy's biggest bugbear, their MAF problems.
Its soo wonderful hearing someone agree with what ive been saying all these years! :)
I watch this guy just to see side pop up pictures. they are great.
I've preached about OEM filters for years...but it mostly falls on deaf ears. My car has dual turbos...the turbos set how much air I can pull at any given time and I'm pretty sure the engineers spent thousands of hours and millions of dollars making sure that OEM filter worked the best for my car.
If I were doing hardcore off-road racing, I might consider a K&N filter. I'm not...therefore I'm using OEM.
Thank you for speaking the truth.
No they don't - they just contract out the design work to industry specialists. That is, they pick a brand they respect, and say, hey we can pay you for some R & D using our vehicles, and we'll buy the filters from you? Nothing is built in-house for the last 100 years. All parts are contracted out. OEM companies coordinate the design, coordinate the production and delivery to plants, and conduct the final assembly. You don't think GM, Toyota or BMW actually builds their own air filters in some sweatshop in Tokyo, Chicago or Spartanburg, do you?
PsychoFisho You are wrong..a lot of stuff is built in-house, especially engines. They won't make small stuff like filters and spark plugs but they don't contract out everything.
They don’t waste thousands of hours and millions of dollars playing with the fucking air filter. They just go with the cheapest route that meets design requirements
K&N checked these map sensor claims and they've never seen a damaged sensor due to there filter. They have a million mile guarantee for the filters life. Cleaning isn't difficult and the cleaning fluid is a great degreaser around the house. Get the big bottle! 😉
K&N is guaranteeing that the filter won’t fall apart for a million miles. They are NOT guaranteeing your engine will last a million miles using their filter. And of course, nobody who wants max engine life uses a K&N. They simply are very poor at actual filtering.
Great info on OEM air filters.
I really appreciate your videos. They are SO HONEST, that crooked companies get PISSED and want to sue you when in fact, THEY are at FAULT.
I was almost convinced to buy the K and N Super Duper Flow. Flows more air? Traps less dirt!
I get the plain ol' Motorcraft air filters for Cabin and Engine for my 13 Ford Escape.
🤦♂️ traps less dirt that's gonna go inside the engine oil umm no thanks
K&N Filters do improve your engine performance over a restrictive paper filter, so I would say it depends on the type of car or truck that you drive, getting a K&N can be the best choice, but not always. A properly oiled K&N will never damage your engine or sensors. I have never experienced a clogging issue that is more than your normal paper filter that will get dirty and clog as well.
K&n let's too much dirt in engine no matter how good you oil it ..
I recently took delivery on a brand new all electric car. One of the things I will not miss after decades of gas car ownership is all the maintenance.
We’re used to it, having grown up around cars all our lives. But the sheer number of components and parts that go into a gas car, and all the maintenance and repairs are just so much work, and so much expense.
I will not miss that.
So you came here to show boat " lol... happy for you ....
What did you get?
You wait till something goes wrong with it then, and I’ve seen customers reduced to tears at the price of a set of tyres for one particular bmw, fools and their money… 🙄
Will you be happy with a single part maintenance and expense: a $12,000 battery?
I always refer to your advise Scotty. You say it like it is, no bull crap. YOu Rock bud. I live in Spring Tx. and I love your show. Keep it going FOREVER.
Thanks for the great info about air filters, Scotty! I have been using those aftermarket ones (usually Fram), and I didn't realize the OEM filters are so much better for filtration. Well, I know I am probably commenting too late to have a chance for winning the OEM air filter, but I have enjoyed watching your great videos for quite a long time now, and I continue to watch them and learn more and more useful things about car repair. Thanks, Scotty! :)
WIX is a great OEM replacement- I used one and it looks like the OEM, may be! Love the videos man- keep it up! Very informative and helpful
Wix is proven to be the best! Truly great air filter
👍
They have done airflow analysis on OEM vs. K&N and K&N flows more air. For someone that does NOT live in a dusty environment, it seems K&N will allow the engine to breathe easier and not have to be cleaned often (perhaps once a year would suffice).
I tend to agree with Scotty if the car has stock exhaust, then increasing airflow doesn't really accomplish much, but surprisingly he didn't mention anything about that. So for racing and for cars with aftermarket high flow exhausts, K&N is the way to go. If you just have a stock exhaust on your street car, then an OEM air filter should be fine and save you some money.
K&N filters allow ~8x the dust and dirt particles in compared to OEM in a study.
@Sweetpotato Johnson OEM is the way to go.
K&N are better for carburated applications imo.
@@oldschooldude8370 why?
@Sweetpotato Johnson you can't beleive its complete BS. However I have seen oil analysis reports that prove kn filter just as well as oem.
If you live out west, you'll notice the k&n let a lot of very fine silt through that paper filters don't.
Scotty certainly knows his stuff
:) Loving the videos Scotty. I'm a K&N type of guy. Yet, I don't clean the K&N with what they offer. A vacuum and Marvel oil does me fine or wash it then use the Marvel. I can't say I won't use the original equipment. Because, always had in the past. And, I kept my vehicles for around 14 years each on average. Just thought I would add my two cents, Scotty. Again, love the videos, 101st.
Good Morning Scotty! Another great video👍! Could you do a vid on using thicker oil during the summer, even if its just a 1 min vid. Hope you have a Happy Monday😀
morning!
Excellent advice! I am a big believer in OEM parts for my Toyota!
Scotty you’re cool “rev up your engine!” Thanks for all the good advice
ill take that filter for my beater, thanks scotty
It's used so you can *REV UP YOUR ENGINES!*
My 1981 Mercedes and my 1991 Ford f150 both use a round filter. My 2005 Chevy Silverado uses a rectangular filter. I thought the rectangular ones were actually not as good. So thank you for educating me.
OEM IS THE BEST. I've compared the ones from the auto parts stores and the oem ones and the oem are much stronger, have more material and last longer. OEM is the way to go.
Favio Escalon unfortunately they’re probably also twice the price or more.
Fram double protection good too
Favio Escalon Aftermarket like k&m or the green filter have been proven on the dyno to make more hp and increase mpg
Favio Escalon but ofc the hp is mostly full kits
Not all aftermarket filters are the same. Never buy “cheap” but a quality aftermarket filter will be as good and cheaper than the OEM filter from the manufacturer.
Now I know why OEM filters cost more !
It’s the pleats/folds not to mention the quality of paper 👍🏽
I showed my dad ur channel, and he loves it. he thinks ur funny and very informative. and I have a 2002 Saturn L 200 4 cylinder
William Dawson accidently drive your Saturn off a bridge
Greasemonkey T LMAO
Ignore the idiots and those that laugh with them, Will. Hope Scotty responds to your comment.
I Scotty I not a car man but your explanation about filter are great .Every week my knowledge of cars expands because of your episodes.Keep up the good work.👍
Total truth in every word you said. Excellent!
k&n filters in my oppinion are worth it, if you know what you are doing, when you are cleaning them, and they pay out on the 2nd-3rd time you clean them. So if you are going to keep your car for a long time I think they are the best bang for the buck.
black power those filters filter less of the thin particle dust, so you're allowing more in. the only positive is less of a restriction which is not really worth it if you are wanting to keep your engine in good condition because dust will eventually scratch your cylinder walls or clog up your valves especially when you live in an area where you see dust just gazing across the road here and there
20502chris my sister didnt clean the one on her jeep for 3 years and it was black as tar, jeep still runs like a top and has no issues. She has the cold air intake, if that doesnt scream quality then I don't know what does
because they have bigger pores they have to be oiled. When you oil them properly they filter pretty much the same.
20502chris
Clean the filter more often when driving in dusty conditions. My Honda has over 200,000 miles and I only bought 1 filter. Car runs like a champ.
Great video Scotty! I’m glad I found your youtube channel. You’ve grown to be one of my favorite mechanics in a short time. Thanks for all the expert advise.
Honestly, I think the Wix filters I get at O'Reilly's work just fine.
Thank you, Scotty! I've learned so much from your videos!
Live Free or Die, Scotty you're 100% American!
My hero!
New Hampshire state motto
He is not. 100% americans are pure materialists. This guy actually cares about people.
Scotty I love your videos and you seriously rock for all your help. Glad to see you telling the truth about KN filters. Too many people don’t do that and end up trashing their MAP. Keep up the cool videos
Thank you Scotty. I was really set on going with the K&N, but after watching this I think I’ll stick with the OEM instead.
Thank u for that insight. It escaped me that the aftermarket filters have less paper and less creases than the on one. Thank u for the lesson. Take care Scotty.
I find K&N filters let more dust past... They are probably designed for higher air flow but that means less filtration at the same time. This is reflected in used oil analysis' I've seen on cars running them. The Silicone levels are always much higher than where an OEM paper filter is used, which suggests sand/dirt actually makes it all the way past the rings into the crankcase when a K&N filter is used in dusty areas, and this would be a big problem over the long term!
Jacob O'Brien - Finally someone agrees with what I've found happening in the past. They are great for large bore engines such as V8's or cars with 4 or 6 cylinders that get driven hard & fast where the owner changes the oil & cleans the various air intake sensors often. Probably does an engine rebuild or swap over every few years also !
For 4 & 6 cylinder cars that are driven sedately by Mr Joe Average, they are a waste of money and time.
Tim Areskog Spot on! They might make sense for a track day where they offer more air flow on a relatively dust free bitumin track, but 90% of K&N users are everyday drivers putting them in their daily drivers thinking they are increasing performance... Those kind of drivers generally aren't aware of the increase in absasive particulates being added to their oil and half of those people won't know how to service their cars to make sure their oil is always clean.
Because a diesel always runs at wide open throttle, you can't use these oiled filters on them. They will encounter what is called "dusting" and the engine will be toast.
Yar Nunya Wide open air flow, on diesel engine what does change is the full injiection ammount, from 300:1 ratio to 10:1, meanwhile in gas engines is almost constant on 15:1
Cant say I ever had to do that using a K&N filter sure I clean them and do clean the air mass sensor of course regular oil changes have 0 problems no engine rebuild etc on my 05 GT.
Yup...it really does make sense to use OEM for quality filtration.👍🏽🇺🇸🇯🇲☺
Ps ...i still love my K&N filter also I just make sure too use a little bit of oil on the filter.🤣😂
I only spray oil on the intake side of the filter and not on the air out side of the filter. So it doesn't ever get oil on a sensor.
Scotty I was a k&n junkie because like yourself I'm cheap
But I got your point and will definitely go OEM starting today
Thank you for all your genuine advise
Scotty should run a diagnosis on his computer because it never picks me!
Ano ..well,,,has over 1 millions fans..yeah..
😆 he said wasting money and showed a pic of a Starbucks coffee...he ain't lying lol
In my experience as long as you get a decent brand, the air filter will be fine. Bosch and Mann basically.
yes there are many aftermarket good quality, he shows a very cheap one in the video
I have a KLN filter on my motorcycle...rethinking that now...Thanks Scotty.
What if you don't put the oil on it and just keep washing it?
@@timewithchaplainken3916 the oil is what actually catches most of the fine particulates. By letting it dry out you are reducing it's filtration capacity by probably 30-40%. You're basically letting a bunch of dust and dirt into your engine.
I’m wondering what computer you have that selects non offensive comments? Hmmm...
DOES NOT COMPUTE 'Danger Will Robinson, Danger!'
My comment is clean 'cauz I filtered it.
so you're telling me air filters use to work like bongs?
MrMusicweekly yep
No, bongs don't filter, they cool
Pretty much lol
I thought of hookas.
Bongs cool air
Retired auto tech for GM your absolutely right . Keep it up Scotty
Fabulous tutorial. Unless parts are cost prohibitive, I always opt for O.E M. Parts, particularly on the Japanese vehicles. I'm saying this having worked as a Product Manager for one of the biggest Automotive Aftermarket Mfgs.
Love the “cameo” appearance of Mike Rowe as the dirty guy.
That was spot on 🤭😂
When I saw the oil part on the K&N, I’m glad I stuck to using STP on my Impala limited LT. I recently changed mine since it needed it, the acceleration feels like a nice ride
Thank Scottie for giving me the tip about the air filters. I learned something about the OEM air filter.
Keep giving us Scotty all this important information appreciated.
Just discovered your channel. Love it! :)
I could really use an air filter Scotty, love your channel btw, I suggest it to everyone, a real smart idea.
The whole thing with too much oil messing up a MAF is a myth. K&N has whole videos on the things they did to bust that myth. In fact, most of the MAF sensors they took in from the dealers where actually functioning just fine & found that some of the MAF sensors that where bad was contaminated by silicates; K&N filter oil has no silicates. The silicone used to hold the sensor together would seep into the sensor if the sensor should come apart. Just briefly, I will say, K&N put filter oil in an air brush & sprayed a MAF sensor with it while a car was running and it did almost nothing. FYI, some OEM filters do in fact have some kind of oil in them. But go to the official K&N website for more details. I was not paid by K&N to put this up, I just so happen to be a fan of K&N ans have had great experiences with them.
Of course K&N would try to pervert the truth about their primary marketing shtick. I have a very simple question for you. Have you ever smelled oil? I mean is it or is it not smell-able? Of course it is. This is because oil particles become airborne, and do so at a much greater rate when massive amounts of air are being pulled through a medium designed to have maximum surface area and covered in oil. It is inescapable fact that oil deposits on everything downstream of an oiled filter. That does not mean your MAF will fail immediately, of course you could pull one out and it is still functional but that is no proof at all that it doesn't build up oil particles, and soot trapped by the oil, at an accelerated rate (compared to no oil or soot except the minor amount when you shut the engine off, for example that you eventually see coating your throttle body. The fact is, MAF sensors do get dirty. You could say that the oiled filter has superior filtration which slows that down, and it is true in many cases, except that the oil deposits can cause what contamination that does get through, to cling to everything.
Further the test of spraying a MAF with oil and seeing no immediate change is not at all evidence of the long term effect. It would be nice if you stuck to indepedent 3rd party qualified testing before jumping to conclusions. Marketing departments spend all day on things like this and are specifically non-trustworthy.
@Jonny Lightning So true!! it happened to me last week, I just learned this from Scotty!
Have a 96 Toyota T100 380k miles and got this code from MAF sensor been bad, just replaced the air filter to a OEM paper filter, now code is gone!! The 1st time it happened 2 years ago and replaced the MAF sensor (didn't know) but suspicious as to why it didn't last this time!
Well, I had K &N in my I30 for more than 20 years or is acting good, but you world have to be careful about the oil build up in MAF , after 20 years that I can sense the car not as efficient and drinks a lot of gas so I decide to clean up the MAF sensor the car runs way better. Of course there's a factor that it is a long time so there might be other factors involved.
Not so much with the MAF but in dusty conditions the oil does work it way onto the throttle body and build up occurs. Then it runs shitty. May be in a city with no gravel k&n may be fine. They definately are no good for off road.
Stinky Cheese k&n also has published numerous research papers on their oil and MAF sensors. You should look it up and read it. They have found that in some cases the silicone potting around the MAF has failed causing the MAF to be damaged not due to their oil. I had a k&n filter on my precious car for years and I just installed one on my new car and will continue to use their drop in filters.. no MAF issues on previous car.
I’ve learned a lot from u I have a 2011 GMC Acadia that’s got over 120,000 miles on it. Gas mileage in town is really bad high way I get about 19 mpg I’ve been able to work on my car more because of u. Thank you so much love your show and everything you do
Love the history lesson Scotty!