A couple questions I didn't cover in the video - Yes, you can opt out of the drilled access holes, but you'd be missing out on the most important long-term benefit of this rust proofing (and the Krown warranty www.krown.com/en/warranty/). The guys at Daily Motor were parting out a few cars this summer and I'm kicking myself for not taking photos of all the rust inside the doors, behind the fenders, etc. These were Michigan-driven cars that were rotting extensively from the inside out but still ran and drove great. You can't see a lot of this happening until it's too late, but the areas that are sprayed through these access holes are just as important as the underside, suspension components, etc. The holes wouldn't void any manufacturer "warranty" unless they become a source of rust, but Krown treats them and the rubber caps with a heavier compound to ensure they don't rust. Also since these holes are drilled behind door seals, trunk seals, etc, they don't see much moisture or exposure to the elements. Hope that helps!
I’m all set with them drilling holes in my car. Those locations of the car could be accessed by removing some plastic panels and sound deadening. Those holes are probably going to hurt your resale. I wouldn’t want to buy a car that had a bunch of holes drilled into it.
Hey, I’m looking at buying a 2006 Subaru STI that has some underbody rust but it looks like it’s surface rust (it was a daily driver in NY for all of its life). Can I get it rust protected if it already has some rust?
@@TBAGTOM As a Canadian...I can confidently say if you live the heart of the rustbelt where this level of treatment is available...Resale value is basically unaffected. If anything, getting Krown treatment typically improves resale value becomes of how thorough and noticeable the results are. Rust free cars are extremely rare up here, and people will pay a premium to get said cars. After all who is going to look at 2 identical cars...one with Krown and one without and say ""Ill take the rustbucket because I don't like the holes"
As a canadian, I would agree with everything you just said. Also try to wash your car at least once a week. Sand and Salt will do a number on your car.
My Ontario car is nearly 18 years old. It gets taken to Krown every year and I apply one coat of high quality paste wax before winter. It remains rust free. I NEVER wash it in the winter as car washes are too expensive and it would inevitably be dirty within hours. It will get a good cleaning in the spring and come out looking as good as it did the day it left the factory. 😁
@@rightlanehog3151 you are delusional. An 18year old car in Ontario most definitely has some rust if you drive it during Nov-March. That salt and brine seeps into every crack and crevice in the chassis. On days where the snow melts it literally creates saline spray that will oxidize any exposed rock chip and imperfection in the paint. Sources: I live in Ontario. Only way to keep it rust free is to park it during winters.
@@gallardo20000 Thanks for the insult! When applied annually, the Krown product gets into every crack and crevice before the salt can do any damage. With the original paint intact, the top side of my car speaks for itself. In regard to the subframe, floors, etc, I have sent videos of the underside of my car to a number of RUclips channels so they can help educate ill-informed or willfully ignorant people who think major rust damage is inevitable. I don't need to send a video to this channel's host Chris because, believe it or not, he actually did some thorough research before airing his opinions. 😉
I've used Krown for over 10 years now. All our cars are Krowned and look brand new in salty eastern Canada. My 2007 Toyota Camry SE doesn't even have surface rust. Thank you for promoting Krown, Chris!
Awesome to hear. What sold me was seeing an early 2000s Silverado with 300,000 miles on it - completely rust free, the original black paint was still on the leaf springs lol. Driven on dirt roads in MI, taken to Krown since new. It just works.
I have four cars in Michigan that I’ve had Krown applied to, and all remain rust-free after 4-29years of Salt Belt driving; mileages between 60K and 335K miles. Getting vehicles treated annually with Krown preserves their structural integrity, and then the car’s lifespan is only limited by the maintenance & durability of its major components (engine, transmission, final drive, etc.), and its utility in meeting your transportation needs. Highly recommend-and for folks in the lower peninsula of Michigan, Todd Brown’s Krown shop in Croswell, MI, does very thorough, effective, and quick work.
I've gotten my 08 si krown undercoated here in Canada, they do a very thorough job which covers every known rust spot which washing alone doesn't always cover.
Chris, You should drive over to Windsor and pay for your Krown in Loonies instead of Greenbacks.😉 My Ontario car is now in its 18th winter. With an annual trip to Krown and a yearly coat of paste wax, it remains rust free. Even in the Salt Belt, rust is a choice not an inevitability.
Wow inside the door and quarter panel with trunk also along with under carage for $140 is excellent. Thanks so much I will be getting this done asap. I'm in illinois and don't care how far I have to drive 👍👍
Good stuff! I just got undercoating, rust proofing and protection film on my 2022 WRX! Before I took it in, I also did a paste wax and full detail on the whole car. It makes me feel so much better about driving it in the harsh Minnesota winters with extremely salty roads almost all winter.
@@whz6ka Hello follow Minnesotan! I took my WRX to P&L Automotive in Edina (near the cities). They did a fantastic job it seems and they took care of my car really well. It was quite pricey but I’d say it’s worth it. I had the rust proofing and protection included into my loan so it didn’t hurt as bad initially. Im sure there has to be cheaper options for the same thing elsewhere though.
Krown not only protects body and chassis, but things like brake and fuel lines etc. I'm from southern Ontario Canada and get my vehicles Krowned every year. Anyone worrying about the drill holes, I have NEVER seen any rust forming around or near the holes.
So glad this exists! Moving to Wisconsin For 3 years for my husbands job, (🤢😭) and as a western Texan not thrilled. But i know rust is a big thing up there. Thanks for the video!
I've thought about rust proofing my bicycle, because she's steel. I suppose when I eventually need to paint her one day I'll go for it. I've already put over 5k miles on her, but I take the best possible care I can and try not to let her get too wet and clean her thoroughly every 100 miles.
@@TheTopher hahah that's exactly what my mechanics say! I feel most comfortable on steel after seeing aluminum frames crack and bend. My steel mountain bike and I survived getting hit by a car (if only I was able to be fixed as easy as the bike...) I'll have to see if there's somewhere like that around me that can rust proof my baby girl. I live in FL and we get crazy humidity and our summers are brutal. Actually bought an indoor trainer just for that reason. No more dealing with 90+ degree days with 99% humidity 🥵
I grew up in central Maine where they use a lot of salt. I suggest just leaving your car outside during the winter. Parking the car in a heated garage where snow is constantly melting will speed up the rusting process versus just leaving a car outside during the winter.
I have probably the only rust free 2007 F150 5 speed in Ontario, Krown rust proofed since new and very seldomly driven in the winter. Its a secondary vehicle that only gets driven about 3-4000 miles a year.
+1 on Krown. Got it done for the first time on my (new to me) 2018 S5 based on your mention of it in past videos and it was quick, easy, and affordable. Looking forward to many rust free years!
I did a lot of researching of products prior to coating my cars. I found that WoolWax is the best product out there. Stay away from rubberized products which harden after they are sprayed on. They can chip, then moisture can seep in between the shell the product forms and the frame. The product in this video looks very thin (like fluid film) and that’s probably why @TheTopher stated it drips onto his driveway. WoolWax is very thick so this won’t happen. WoolWax has the consistency of a heavy weight motor oil which is what old mechanics used before modern undercoatings were available.
The film will also attract dirt/dust. Yes, it provides a barrier, but the tackiness will allow dirt to stick, so avoid dusty back roads. Same is true for products like WD-40 Rust Prevention spray, silicone spray, PB Blaster, etc. Chainsaw bar oil is nice, but super thick and tacky.
I use rust check in Nova Scotia. Pretty much the same stuff. People saying that the small holes will weaken the car, well consider how much more a car is weakened rusted out. 🤔😉
I’m surprised that rust is still an issue with modern cars, I thought they dipped all the chassis components into a chemical bath at the factory? Also I’d be very concerned with them drilling holes and spraying sight unseen. The electric cables running through there are (supposed to be) sealed, but they weren’t designed to be resistant to an oil mist being sprayed in there. Seems like there’s a significant potential for it making it’s way into an electrical connector and shorting a connection.
...the dipping and treatment at the factory helps delay the corrosion process, but does not prevent it 100%. Since rust is a chemical/electrical process, you need materials that do not create that electeon transfer when in contact with water/sodium chloride - aluminum, titanium, fiberglass, carbon fiber, plastic, etc. Even stainless steel will rust over a period of time. The dipping provides a barrier, much like paint, but barriers have limits.
Someone told me to get rust proofing done during peak summer heat. He says the oils gets into areas easier with the high temperatures. Although, the oil will burn a bit and your car will smoke up a bit under the hood for the first day lol. I didn't get one done the following year but oil still seeped through some areas
Wow that seems like a huge headache, so glad I live in the great American Southwest. Haven't washed my car in months and still sparkling, just dust it every night.
The southwest is absolutely beautiful. You guys have the best sunsets! And while it gets hot in the summer, that dry heat is so much more manageable than humid heat!
@Seth M Yeah the painted sky is beautiful, and I'm in NM so it doesn't get hot like AZ, and all the bad winter weather just misses US. With the perfect weather I'm surprised more people don't live here, I moved from rainy Oregon and love it.
Love the video and thanks for sharing! What do you think of daily driving a Chevy SS through the winter? With this application? Would you do it if you owned it?
It seems like a pretty undemanding job. They could have really taken off the wheels, wheel arch liners, and the lower covers, and they could have masked the brakes and the things that don't need to be blown.
I agree w/everything u've said. All ur cons, I have no problem living in Pa. No auto car washes here. I use self serve w/my own soaps/etc. Nice lookn car! 👍 Any undercoating oil or wax is fine! Jst have done annually!
@@rightlanehog3151 Good thinking! There looks to be a dealer in La Crosse WI that offers it. About a 2.5 hr drive from the Twin Cities, and I visit there often. This is a little closer than the next closest dedicated stand alone location (Wausau WI).
I just looked this up, too, and was surprised. Might have to look into franchising a location here in Minneapolis :) Also, I think I would rather make the drive to the dedicated location in Wausau rather than trust that rinky-dink dealer in LaCrosse that does it on the side.
Not bad for 205s. I was looking to downsize rims to 16 as well, get some Sparco Terras on there, but wasn't so sure about putting such narrow tires. I was hoping to put some 235s on a 7 width rim, I hope it'll fit.
So they spray the weather seals to avoid contact with krown, but then they spray the cv boots and bushings? Wouldn’t that make them swell? Am I missing something?
Every time I watch a Matt’s off-road recovery video where they’re working on something in the shop, my brain goes “don’t they need to paint/coat that?” Oh wait, it won’t rust out there 😂
My question for this kind of treatment (or maybe something like DIY fluid film?) is whether after a handful of years, the "preserved" undercarriage ever could get back to looking factory fresh? I've got an older southern Z3 coupe that has seen no rust, but I'd love to be able to drive it in the winter without fear of it wasting away in no time... could it "graduate" to a summer-only / winter garage queen later on down the road, or would it always have remnants/signs of coating?
Personally I would think that built up oil treatment would be a plus of using this, not a downside. It would offer some protection from further rust down the line. How often are you standing under your convertible showing all your buddies how factory fresh your suspension looks, anyways?
A note for those unfamiliar with coatings: There are significantly better products on the market than Krown. Several tests, even on RUclips, have established Krown is pretty good, but competitor lanolin products creep better and offer better protection for longer. Wool Wax, PB Blaster, and Fluid Film are all great alternatives, with Wool Wax and Blaster outperforming Krown. With that said, I think the takeaway here is that if you live in the rust belt, you will probably need some form of rust protection, and you should ONLY use fluid products that do not harden as they cure. Also, I personally would not drill any holes as that just creates another avenue for debris/salt to enter the body. You can generally access the interior of doors and "frame rails" without the need for drilling.
In AZ, just bought a new CX-30, this makes me want to take a road trip to Krown to get this done. Lolz My only question is does the drilling void the warranty?
I just got Krown done - but what about the drill sites on painted surfaces? That sheet metal has primer, a base coat, and then a nice thick layer of clear coat to protect the sheet metal from rusting. Since Krown drills holes, that sheet metal is now going to be exposed to the environment. I'm worried that the drill sites, ironically, will be the first ones to rot.
They won’t rust - they apply a special silicone in the rubber seal, there’s krown product in there too, and where they drill is usually behind sealed doors/trunk lids, etc that don’t see moisture
There are no issues with the holes as the black plastic plugs look like they were installed in the factory. My car's factory warranties expired about a decade ago. Krown has given my car's body a chance to live as long as the mechanical components bolted to it. 😁
@@rightlanehog3151 I live in Greater Vancouver and the nearest Krown location is a few hours north of me. But knowing about them is great as our winters have slowly gotten worse over the years.
@@carloscanizares4699 In my part of Ontario there are probably 5 Krown shops within a half hour drive of my house. If I was in your location, I would make an appointment, pack a lunch and turn the Krown visit into a day trip. I drive a 2005 Pontiac Vibe. It has been to Krown 18 times and remains rust free despite the fact it is exposed to salted roadways from November til April every year. When I get around to washing it in the spring, it will look as good as new.
@@carloscanizares4699 I live on the island and I agree that winters have started to get worse, but still we get one or two big snowfalls and it’s all gone in 2 weeks once it rains. I just wash my 22 year old car once every week or two in the salting months and it stays rust free.
My brother has recently bought a 2005 Subaru Forester XT just because it was too good offer to pass on. He would like to sell it to me since he knows I would kill for a car like that. It was previously owned by an old lady who hasn't drove it that much. The problem is that we imported the car from Sweden and just like many old japanese cars, it has rust on rocker panels and also rear fenders since it has plastic fender flares bolted on. It only seems to be a surface corrosion so sanding a repainting should fix it but I'm interested in daily driving it and as usual, we use very aggressive salt on roads in Slovakia. I was thinking about protecting the bottom of the car with rubber coating but just like you said, I'm also afraid that instead of protecting the metals, it would trap salt and moisture above the coating. What type of rust protection would you recommend for such an old car?
these places do get the oil pretty much everywhere but they charge so much. a guy could just do it himself for like 60 bucks and use Amsoil HD Metal Protectant or something similar.
This is a clutch video! My GR86 looks not very happy after the last few days of snow (I live in Ohio). I wonder if oil-based rustproofing can be an alternative to ceramic coating? Also, I have bought a GR Aero Stabilizing Cover (part no. MS346-18002) which sticks to the rear windscreen via 3M tape. Will the 3M tape stick well on an oil-bonded windscreen? Thank you!
A ceramic coating typically goes on the paint to protect the clear coat and make the car easier to wash, while rustproofing goes on the parts of the car that you can’t see. I don’t think it’s fair to compare the two products as they serve different purposes. What do you mean by an oil-bonded windscreen? There shouldn’t be any oil on your glass and you’d wipe down the area the tape will adhere to with alcohol for a clean mating surface.
@@leocui03 Oh crap my bad, I didn't realize you don't rustproof the windscreen... Sorry my brain was definitely tired a few hours ago, and thanks for the explanations
I take any car I drive in the winter to get Corrosion-free rust-proofing as opposed to Krown. I just never liked the idea of drilling holes in the body, on top of that, Krowns formula is known to rot rubber seals over time.
love this video.I am in Michigan too.I am getting an 86 right now.What kind of product can clean the drive way afterward?If you can share your experience how to drive rwd in snow will be perfect!
I used to Zeibart my cars but I figured I’d try an oil based solution with my GR86. I ultimately chose RustKote but I am a huge fan of this style of rust proofing. How do you like the wireless CarPlay adapter? I’m considering it as well but not sure I’d like it.
Oil-based is the way to go 👍 The wireless adapter has been surprisingly good, the Subaru infotainment still drops CarPlay somewhat often (even after an update at the dealer) but it reconnects as quickly as it would plugged in.
I was a little disappointed you didn't cover the question of, "What if your car is already pretty rusty.?" I wanted to know if Krown would work on an 11-year-old, 120k mile Honda that's already fairly rusty underneath, and even starting to bubble around the rear quarter panels. Will Krown services do something to remove some existing rust, then spray their product to prevent more rust? Would it just be better to sell the car and get a less rustier car? How much rust is too much for rust protection to be worth it?
That's a good question - if you have a location nearby you can take it there and they'll check it out. I'm not sure if they'll remove any existing rust, might have to do that yourself or take it elsewhere, but it can't hurt to get it coated and at least preserve what's there.
I noticed that the person working at Krown drill a hole at your door. If they sprayed Krown into it will it affect the electric wires of your automatic windows? Thank you in advance. :)
Just bought a new GR86 and I live in central Indiana. While we don't see as much snow as Michigan, we still get some, which means salt. Had a FJ Cruiser before my GR86, and with that being my first car, I didn't have the money to get an undercoating professionally done. With the GR, I put PPF on the front end and ceramic coated everything I could. Would the film spray make it "gross" to work on? I want to do some suspension work and eventually track it in the spring, but don't want all of the gross film-like tackiness that comes with it.
When they spray inside the doors, does the oil get on the windows when you roll them down? Looks like a nice service, I'd definitely get this done if I lived in the salt belt.
Hi there, I've noticed that your battery gauge seems to jump around in values, while you drive, mine does that too (I have a 2017 gt86 baught it 1 month ago) is that normal ?
In previous videos you’ve talked about how you drive over a dirt road after you get Krown protection. What’s the logic behind that, isn’t it better to keep a car’s underside clean.
If you plan on having this done do not plan on taking it to any auto shop for underbody/suspension work as many shops will flat out refuse working on it.
That sounds like a load of crap. Most probably get oil/fluids on them anyway plus dirt and grease. I'd much rather work on a car coated with an oil where I can just wear gloves than work on a car with every nut and bolt rusted and rubber torn and worn.
I have been driving in northern new york, vermont and quebec, all high salt use states/provinces, my whole life and never used any similar product and never had any rust at all even owning some vehicles for 11 years. I simply wash them well weekly ensuring i hose down the under carriage and wheel wells. I also keep,the car well waxed spring thru fall. Based on my results i question the meed for products like this; not that they doe not work, i am sure they do, i just question their need if one keeps the vehicle clean year round. Prior to,the 2000s vehicles were more prone to rust but not so much now.
Doesn’t drilling of the body panels introduce weak spots for the rust to create? Can you opt out from that part of the process and do just the undercarriage?
It does create weak spots but in my experience, the little rubber caps and oil prevent any rust from starting in those areas. You can opt out but I don’t see why you should, considering that’s one of the best parts of the oil application.
@@khelgarironfist3301 Logically speaking...I don't see how a car with a drilled out hole to apply rust proofing is worth less than a car with holes from created by said rust.
What's a good way to get salt off in the winter at home? Would one of those garden sprayers work so I don't freeze my hose? I might have to look to see if I have a krown near me for my Miata
There is an attachment for a pressure washer (i know) that's kinda like a bar with sprayers pointing upwards that you can roll under your car to knock out any loose salt out
A couple questions I didn't cover in the video - Yes, you can opt out of the drilled access holes, but you'd be missing out on the most important long-term benefit of this rust proofing (and the Krown warranty www.krown.com/en/warranty/). The guys at Daily Motor were parting out a few cars this summer and I'm kicking myself for not taking photos of all the rust inside the doors, behind the fenders, etc. These were Michigan-driven cars that were rotting extensively from the inside out but still ran and drove great. You can't see a lot of this happening until it's too late, but the areas that are sprayed through these access holes are just as important as the underside, suspension components, etc.
The holes wouldn't void any manufacturer "warranty" unless they become a source of rust, but Krown treats them and the rubber caps with a heavier compound to ensure they don't rust. Also since these holes are drilled behind door seals, trunk seals, etc, they don't see much moisture or exposure to the elements. Hope that helps!
Thanks Chris but the doubters will still doubt 😉
I’m all set with them drilling holes in my car. Those locations of the car could be accessed by removing some plastic panels and sound deadening. Those holes are probably going to hurt your resale. I wouldn’t want to buy a car that had a bunch of holes drilled into it.
Hey, I’m looking at buying a 2006 Subaru STI that has some underbody rust but it looks like it’s surface rust (it was a daily driver in NY for all of its life). Can I get it rust protected if it already has some rust?
@@dominicancheif117 Watch the video. ;)
@@TBAGTOM As a Canadian...I can confidently say if you live the heart of the rustbelt where this level of treatment is available...Resale value is basically unaffected. If anything, getting Krown treatment typically improves resale value becomes of how thorough and noticeable the results are. Rust free cars are extremely rare up here, and people will pay a premium to get said cars.
After all who is going to look at 2 identical cars...one with Krown and one without and say ""Ill take the rustbucket because I don't like the holes"
As a canadian, I would agree with everything you just said. Also try to wash your car at least once a week. Sand and Salt will do a number on your car.
My Ontario car is nearly 18 years old. It gets taken to Krown every year and I apply one coat of high quality paste wax before winter. It remains rust free. I NEVER wash it in the winter as car washes are too expensive and it would inevitably be dirty within hours. It will get a good cleaning in the spring and come out looking as good as it did the day it left the factory. 😁
Washing it actually will rust it quicker if you wash it in freezing temps
@@mikemayers8672 well it’s kind of hard to wash the car when the water in the hose is frozen
@@rightlanehog3151 you are delusional. An 18year old car in Ontario most definitely has some rust if you drive it during Nov-March. That salt and brine seeps into every crack and crevice in the chassis. On days where the snow melts it literally creates saline spray that will oxidize any exposed rock chip and imperfection in the paint.
Sources: I live in Ontario. Only way to keep it rust free is to park it during winters.
@@gallardo20000 Thanks for the insult! When applied annually, the Krown product gets into every crack and crevice before the salt can do any damage. With the original paint intact, the top side of my car speaks for itself. In regard to the subframe, floors, etc, I have sent videos of the underside of my car to a number of RUclips channels so they can help educate ill-informed or willfully ignorant people who think major rust damage is inevitable. I don't need to send a video to this channel's host Chris because, believe it or not, he actually did some thorough research before airing his opinions. 😉
I've used Krown for over 10 years now. All our cars are Krowned and look brand new in salty eastern Canada. My 2007 Toyota Camry SE doesn't even have surface rust. Thank you for promoting Krown, Chris!
Awesome to hear. What sold me was seeing an early 2000s Silverado with 300,000 miles on it - completely rust free, the original black paint was still on the leaf springs lol. Driven on dirt roads in MI, taken to Krown since new. It just works.
I have four cars in Michigan that I’ve had Krown applied to, and all remain rust-free after 4-29years of Salt Belt driving; mileages between 60K and 335K miles. Getting vehicles treated annually with Krown preserves their structural integrity, and then the car’s lifespan is only limited by the maintenance & durability of its major components (engine, transmission, final drive, etc.), and its utility in meeting your transportation needs. Highly recommend-and for folks in the lower peninsula of Michigan, Todd Brown’s Krown shop in Croswell, MI, does very thorough, effective, and quick work.
Chris- everytime I see your BRZ on camera it looks super clean and brilliant. Bravo on keeping it pristine!
I've gotten my 08 si krown undercoated here in Canada, they do a very thorough job which covers every known rust spot which washing alone doesn't always cover.
Krown is no joke. Canadian here with a 12-year old Impreza. I used Krown about once a year and my car is still pristine. Trust this guy/Krown.
I have no Krown here in Germany but I will definitely make use of such an service, thank you!
Chris, You should drive over to Windsor and pay for your Krown in Loonies instead of Greenbacks.😉 My Ontario car is now in its 18th winter. With an annual trip to Krown and a yearly coat of paste wax, it remains rust free. Even in the Salt Belt, rust is a choice not an inevitability.
Wow inside the door and quarter panel with trunk also along with under carage for $140 is excellent. Thanks so much I will be getting this done asap. I'm in illinois and don't care how far I have to drive 👍👍
Krown is one of the few things that actually work. Been doing it for years, I want to keep my Civic as long as possible
Good stuff! I just got undercoating, rust proofing and protection film on my 2022 WRX! Before I took it in, I also did a paste wax and full detail on the whole car. It makes me feel so much better about driving it in the harsh Minnesota winters with extremely salty roads almost all winter.
Where did you go to get all that work done? I’m also in Minnesota!
@@whz6ka Hello follow Minnesotan! I took my WRX to P&L Automotive in Edina (near the cities). They did a fantastic job it seems and they took care of my car really well. It was quite pricey but I’d say it’s worth it. I had the rust proofing and protection included into my loan so it didn’t hurt as bad initially. Im sure there has to be cheaper options for the same thing elsewhere though.
Krown not only protects body and chassis, but things like brake and fuel lines etc. I'm from southern Ontario Canada and get my vehicles Krowned every year. Anyone worrying about the drill holes, I have NEVER seen any rust forming around or near the holes.
I've lived in Michigan and in Toronto. In both of those cities, I've used Krown for rust proofing. Love it !!!
It's been an absolute pleasure working with you on these videos. You do an excellent job of explaining the Krown process. Thank you for the business!!
So glad this exists! Moving to Wisconsin For 3 years for my husbands job, (🤢😭) and as a western Texan not thrilled. But i know rust is a big thing up there. Thanks for the video!
Krown products have done wonders for my vehicles. First thing I did to my new Civic was Krown!
This is a great video for everyone in the snow belt.
100% krown is awesome none of my cars have had rust in the 10+ years I've owned them. Once every 2 years is good enough.
As a fellow Michigander this was pretty useful, they toss so much salt on the roads where I live its not even funny.
living in Michigan, seeing all the disintegrating used cars (especially 90s Japanese cars), this video helps so thanks
I've thought about rust proofing my bicycle, because she's steel. I suppose when I eventually need to paint her one day I'll go for it. I've already put over 5k miles on her, but I take the best possible care I can and try not to let her get too wet and clean her thoroughly every 100 miles.
Steel is real! Haha I’ve sprayed krown on my bikes too for winter riding, and the hitch rack!
@@TheTopher hahah that's exactly what my mechanics say! I feel most comfortable on steel after seeing aluminum frames crack and bend. My steel mountain bike and I survived getting hit by a car (if only I was able to be fixed as easy as the bike...)
I'll have to see if there's somewhere like that around me that can rust proof my baby girl. I live in FL and we get crazy humidity and our summers are brutal. Actually bought an indoor trainer just for that reason. No more dealing with 90+ degree days with 99% humidity 🥵
I grew up in central Maine where they use a lot of salt. I suggest just leaving your car outside during the winter. Parking the car in a heated garage where snow is constantly melting will speed up the rusting process versus just leaving a car outside during the winter.
Came across this product when you reviewed it on the Mazda ! Immediately used it on my Hyundai Accent, many thanks 🤙
I have probably the only rust free 2007 F150 5 speed in Ontario, Krown rust proofed since new and very seldomly driven in the winter. Its a secondary vehicle that only gets driven about 3-4000 miles a year.
+1 on Krown. Got it done for the first time on my (new to me) 2018 S5 based on your mention of it in past videos and it was quick, easy, and affordable. Looking forward to many rust free years!
I did a lot of researching of products prior to coating my cars. I found that WoolWax is the best product out there. Stay away from rubberized products which harden after they are sprayed on. They can chip, then moisture can seep in between the shell the product forms and the frame. The product in this video looks very thin (like fluid film) and that’s probably why @TheTopher stated it drips onto his driveway. WoolWax is very thick so this won’t happen. WoolWax has the consistency of a heavy weight motor oil which is what old mechanics used before modern undercoatings were available.
Okay I know it's not the subject of the video but it did do a great job of showing off just how good the new BRZ looks
Definitely will be going to krown in the future after seeing this video.
Gonna Krown my s2000 and obs f250 before this winter. Both are really clean for being driven in the mitten. Sup to you neighbor.
The film will also attract dirt/dust. Yes, it provides a barrier, but the tackiness will allow dirt to stick, so avoid dusty back roads. Same is true for products like WD-40 Rust Prevention spray, silicone spray, PB Blaster, etc. Chainsaw bar oil is nice, but super thick and tacky.
I use rust check in Nova Scotia. Pretty much the same stuff. People saying that the small holes will weaken the car, well consider how much more a car is weakened rusted out. 🤔😉
Lol exactly
Interesting that the service prices are the exact same numerically in CAD and USD, looks like us Canadians are getting a better deal!
Wow! Such a thorough process. That is awesome.
I wish krown had a location near me. Indiana LOVES their road salt. I apply fluid film every fall and have had excellent luck with the application.
I’m surprised that rust is still an issue with modern cars, I thought they dipped all the chassis components into a chemical bath at the factory? Also I’d be very concerned with them drilling holes and spraying sight unseen. The electric cables running through there are (supposed to be) sealed, but they weren’t designed to be resistant to an oil mist being sprayed in there. Seems like there’s a significant potential for it making it’s way into an electrical connector and shorting a connection.
...the dipping and treatment at the factory helps delay the corrosion process, but does not prevent it 100%. Since rust is a chemical/electrical process, you need materials that do not create that electeon transfer when in contact with water/sodium chloride - aluminum, titanium, fiberglass, carbon fiber, plastic, etc. Even stainless steel will rust over a period of time. The dipping provides a barrier, much like paint, but barriers have limits.
S+ tier channel! i learn something new everyday here i swear, ty so much Topher.
I need a place near NYC / TriState Area to have rust coating installed! Closest Krown location is over 3hr away. Might have to make the drive.
Someone told me to get rust proofing done during peak summer heat. He says the oils gets into areas easier with the high temperatures. Although, the oil will burn a bit and your car will smoke up a bit under the hood for the first day lol.
I didn't get one done the following year but oil still seeped through some areas
This is amazing! Thank you so much for this! Going to get it scheduled for my vehicles!
That’s actually super affordable. Would love if Krown had a location in Connecticut. The only place in CT charges 350$ for a full-sized SUV.
Wow that seems like a huge headache, so glad I live in the great American Southwest. Haven't washed my car in months and still sparkling, just dust it every night.
The southwest is absolutely beautiful. You guys have the best sunsets!
And while it gets hot in the summer, that dry heat is so much more manageable than humid heat!
@Seth M Yeah the painted sky is beautiful, and I'm in NM so it doesn't get hot like AZ, and all the bad winter weather just misses US. With the perfect weather I'm surprised more people don't live here, I moved from rainy Oregon and love it.
I need to get this done to my Honda prelude. It's made it 25 years with minimal rust
I use rust check. I believe you can request that they don’t drill and just use existing holes fyi.
Living in SW Florida fixed it for me. Zero rust here.
Love the video and thanks for sharing! What do you think of daily driving a Chevy SS through the winter? With this application? Would you do it if you owned it?
Thats a pretty damn fair price. Wish we had that stuff here.
I wonder if you can pay more for a heavier coat.
It seems like a pretty undemanding job. They could have really taken off the wheels, wheel arch liners, and the lower covers, and they could have masked the brakes and the things that don't need to be blown.
I agree w/everything u've said. All ur cons, I have no problem living in Pa. No auto car washes here. I use self serve w/my own soaps/etc. Nice lookn car! 👍
Any undercoating oil or wax is fine! Jst have done annually!
Great vid! But it is absolutely baffling to me why there are no Krown locations in MN. Shame.
Are there any dealers within day-tripping distance? Here in Ontario I must have 5 dealers within a half hour of my house.
@@rightlanehog3151 Good thinking! There looks to be a dealer in La Crosse WI that offers it. About a 2.5 hr drive from the Twin Cities, and I visit there often. This is a little closer than the next closest dedicated stand alone location (Wausau WI).
@@785randall Pack a picnic basket unless you have a favorite restaurant in La Crosse
I just looked this up, too, and was surprised. Might have to look into franchising a location here in Minneapolis :)
Also, I think I would rather make the drive to the dedicated location in Wausau rather than trust that rinky-dink dealer in LaCrosse that does it on the side.
@@nathanneudecker6516 Wherever you end up going, it is definitely worth the trip.
Not bad for 205s. I was looking to downsize rims to 16 as well, get some Sparco Terras on there, but wasn't so sure about putting such narrow tires. I was hoping to put some 235s on a 7 width rim, I hope it'll fit.
Just curious would those drilling void warranty?
So they spray the weather seals to avoid contact with krown, but then they spray the cv boots and bushings? Wouldn’t that make them swell? Am I missing something?
Different rubber perhaps? Plus weather seals have tiny holes in them to allow for better compression. CV boots don't need to compress.
Move to the Southwest, like I did.
Every time I watch a Matt’s off-road recovery video where they’re working on something in the shop, my brain goes “don’t they need to paint/coat that?” Oh wait, it won’t rust out there 😂
Thanks for the content. Did you get any overspray mist into the cabin area? (e.g. Leather seats/steering wheel/dash/windows?)
Nope, windows stay closed
My question for this kind of treatment (or maybe something like DIY fluid film?) is whether after a handful of years, the "preserved" undercarriage ever could get back to looking factory fresh? I've got an older southern Z3 coupe that has seen no rust, but I'd love to be able to drive it in the winter without fear of it wasting away in no time... could it "graduate" to a summer-only / winter garage queen later on down the road, or would it always have remnants/signs of coating?
Yeah, a good undercarriage wash and scrub would bring it back, and if you wanted to go all out - dry ice cleaning!
Personally I would think that built up oil treatment would be a plus of using this, not a downside. It would offer some protection from further rust down the line. How often are you standing under your convertible showing all your buddies how factory fresh your suspension looks, anyways?
It’s unfortunate they don’t have any service locations in Massachusetts. I would love to get this done.
There is a dealer in Lebanon , New Hampshire
A note for those unfamiliar with coatings: There are significantly better products on the market than Krown. Several tests, even on RUclips, have established Krown is pretty good, but competitor lanolin products creep better and offer better protection for longer. Wool Wax, PB Blaster, and Fluid Film are all great alternatives, with Wool Wax and Blaster outperforming Krown. With that said, I think the takeaway here is that if you live in the rust belt, you will probably need some form of rust protection, and you should ONLY use fluid products that do not harden as they cure.
Also, I personally would not drill any holes as that just creates another avenue for debris/salt to enter the body. You can generally access the interior of doors and "frame rails" without the need for drilling.
In AZ, just bought a new CX-30, this makes me want to take a road trip to Krown to get this done. Lolz
My only question is does the drilling void the warranty?
Thanks to Krown, in its 18th salty Ontario winter, my car remains rust free long after the warranty expired.
In Arizona you may not need this at all?
I just got Krown done - but what about the drill sites on painted surfaces? That sheet metal has primer, a base coat, and then a nice thick layer of clear coat to protect the sheet metal from rusting. Since Krown drills holes, that sheet metal is now going to be exposed to the environment. I'm worried that the drill sites, ironically, will be the first ones to rot.
They won’t rust - they apply a special silicone in the rubber seal, there’s krown product in there too, and where they drill is usually behind sealed doors/trunk lids, etc that don’t see moisture
@@TheTopher that makes sense thanks dude! I did see your comment above a little too late I suppose. Super happy to have had it done though 🤙
4:38. interesting differential. looks very similar if not the same as the first gen fr-s platform and the IS300
As a Canadian, yay! Happy New Year!!!
Do the manufacturers make a stink about the holes drilled, when you take it into warranty services?
Happy new year! Tbh I don’t think anyone even notices them, I barely notice them and I’m super aware of where they all go haha
There are no issues with the holes as the black plastic plugs look like they were installed in the factory. My car's factory warranties expired about a decade ago. Krown has given my car's body a chance to live as long as the mechanical components bolted to it. 😁
@@rightlanehog3151 I live in Greater Vancouver and the nearest Krown location is a few hours north of me. But knowing about them is great as our winters have slowly gotten worse over the years.
@@carloscanizares4699 In my part of Ontario there are probably 5 Krown shops within a half hour drive of my house. If I was in your location, I would make an appointment, pack a lunch and turn the Krown visit into a day trip. I drive a 2005 Pontiac Vibe. It has been to Krown 18 times and remains rust free despite the fact it is exposed to salted roadways from November til April every year. When I get around to washing it in the spring, it will look as good as new.
@@carloscanizares4699 I live on the island and I agree that winters have started to get worse, but still we get one or two big snowfalls and it’s all gone in 2 weeks once it rains. I just wash my 22 year old car once every week or two in the salting months and it stays rust free.
My brother has recently bought a 2005 Subaru Forester XT just because it was too good offer to pass on. He would like to sell it to me since he knows I would kill for a car like that. It was previously owned by an old lady who hasn't drove it that much. The problem is that we imported the car from Sweden and just like many old japanese cars, it has rust on rocker panels and also rear fenders since it has plastic fender flares bolted on. It only seems to be a surface corrosion so sanding a repainting should fix it but I'm interested in daily driving it and as usual, we use very aggressive salt on roads in Slovakia. I was thinking about protecting the bottom of the car with rubber coating but just like you said, I'm also afraid that instead of protecting the metals, it would trap salt and moisture above the coating. What type of rust protection would you recommend for such an old car?
these places do get the oil pretty much everywhere but they charge so much. a guy could just do it himself for like 60 bucks and use Amsoil HD Metal Protectant or something similar.
Rust is the best and cheapest weight reduction mod. The longer you own it the faster it gets.
Just a point on how all these rust proofers get into the hard to reach areas, they will drill holes in your underbody.
This is a clutch video! My GR86 looks not very happy after the last few days of snow (I live in Ohio).
I wonder if oil-based rustproofing can be an alternative to ceramic coating?
Also, I have bought a GR Aero Stabilizing Cover (part no. MS346-18002) which sticks to the rear windscreen via 3M tape. Will the 3M tape stick well on an oil-bonded windscreen?
Thank you!
A ceramic coating typically goes on the paint to protect the clear coat and make the car easier to wash, while rustproofing goes on the parts of the car that you can’t see. I don’t think it’s fair to compare the two products as they serve different purposes.
What do you mean by an oil-bonded windscreen? There shouldn’t be any oil on your glass and you’d wipe down the area the tape will adhere to with alcohol for a clean mating surface.
@@leocui03 Oh crap my bad, I didn't realize you don't rustproof the windscreen... Sorry my brain was definitely tired a few hours ago, and thanks for the explanations
I take any car I drive in the winter to get Corrosion-free rust-proofing as opposed to Krown. I just never liked the idea of drilling holes in the body, on top of that, Krowns formula is known to rot rubber seals over time.
What product/company do you use?
@@seth4321 Corrosion-Free
love this video.I am in Michigan too.I am getting an 86 right now.What kind of product can clean the drive way afterward?If you can share your experience how to drive rwd
in snow will be perfect!
Krown has a wash you can buy there that you can use on your driveway
No idea why they don't have a location in Wisconsin since we use a TON of salt. Not sure I can make an 8h round trip every year for rust prevention.
I used to Zeibart my cars but I figured I’d try an oil based solution with my GR86. I ultimately chose RustKote but I am a huge fan of this style of rust proofing.
How do you like the wireless CarPlay adapter? I’m considering it as well but not sure I’d like it.
Oil-based is the way to go 👍
The wireless adapter has been surprisingly good, the Subaru infotainment still drops CarPlay somewhat often (even after an update at the dealer) but it reconnects as quickly as it would plugged in.
@@TheTopher yep - the cut outs are quite annoying. Thanks for your input!
I was a little disappointed you didn't cover the question of, "What if your car is already pretty rusty.?"
I wanted to know if Krown would work on an 11-year-old, 120k mile Honda that's already fairly rusty underneath, and even starting to bubble around the rear quarter panels. Will Krown services do something to remove some existing rust, then spray their product to prevent more rust? Would it just be better to sell the car and get a less rustier car? How much rust is too much for rust protection to be worth it?
That's a good question - if you have a location nearby you can take it there and they'll check it out. I'm not sure if they'll remove any existing rust, might have to do that yourself or take it elsewhere, but it can't hurt to get it coated and at least preserve what's there.
Krown will slow rust by about 90-95%
I noticed that the person working at Krown drill a hole at your door. If they sprayed Krown into it will it affect the electric wires of your automatic windows? Thank you in advance. :)
You should collab with @savagegeese who can provide "this pile is all rusted out" soundbites and under the Bendpak[tm] videography.
That would make a fun comparison video!
can you get krown only on the underbody with out the panel drilling ?
Just bought a new GR86 and I live in central Indiana. While we don't see as much snow as Michigan, we still get some, which means salt. Had a FJ Cruiser before my GR86, and with that being my first car, I didn't have the money to get an undercoating professionally done. With the GR, I put PPF on the front end and ceramic coated everything I could.
Would the film spray make it "gross" to work on? I want to do some suspension work and eventually track it in the spring, but don't want all of the gross film-like tackiness that comes with it.
It’s not too bad once it dries out after a couple months. I’d take getting my hands a bit dirty over fighting rust and corrosion any day.
Get an undercarriage washer (like an attachment to ur hose). Get salt off instead of letting it cake and sit there
Doesn’t help when rocks chip up finishes and paint on metal surfaces. Oil coatings help keep a moisture barrier
Adding water to salt sounds like a great idea
Wish they had these in Cincinnati.
Interesting
How come you drove all the way out there? You have Krowns closer to you, just seeing if some locations perform better than others.
What if that product gets on the brakes, is that gonna affect the braking ability?
When you leave they say to be cautious for the first few stops but after that there’s no effect on braking performance.
When they spray inside the doors, does the oil get on the windows when you roll them down? Looks like a nice service, I'd definitely get this done if I lived in the salt belt.
I was thinking about this too, it doesn’t 👍
@@TheTopher Nice. Thanks for the response!
The oil will be on the (outside) window seal at the top of the door. Some spray will get on the window that is in the door on the regulator.
Satisfaction!
Hi there, I've noticed that your battery gauge seems to jump around in values, while you drive, mine does that too (I have a 2017 gt86 baught it 1 month ago) is that normal ?
wow unfortunate the closest one for me is calgary canada. This seems really worth
I live in Northern Utah and wish I had one near me.
Oil is dust magnet. Chemistry😏
In previous videos you’ve talked about how you drive over a dirt road after you get Krown protection. What’s the logic behind that, isn’t it better to keep a car’s underside clean.
I guess the dirt that sticks to the oil would work as a physical barrier for any salt that gets flicked up onto your car?
I expect the civic type r 2023 to be next
Goes in on Tuesday!
Why my Minnesotan Sentra didn't have this done by the previous owner? 😮💨😮💨😮💨
If you plan on having this done do not plan on taking it to any auto shop for underbody/suspension work as many shops will flat out refuse working on it.
Every mechanic I’ve talked to would rather get a little dirt on their gloves than have to deal with rust 🤷♂️
@@TheTopher My mechanic displays Krown leaflets beside his cash register.
That sounds like a load of crap. Most probably get oil/fluids on them anyway plus dirt and grease. I'd much rather work on a car coated with an oil where I can just wear gloves than work on a car with every nut and bolt rusted and rubber torn and worn.
I am really sad that there are no krown locations in the Colorado area. Is there any other places in Colorado that could do a similar treatment?
You had another video where you did this to a bigger car a year ago or so. Are they doing it for free if you advertise for them?
I have been driving in northern new york, vermont and quebec, all high salt use states/provinces, my whole life and never used any similar product and never had any rust at all even owning some vehicles for 11 years. I simply wash them well weekly ensuring i hose down the under carriage and wheel wells. I also keep,the car well waxed spring thru fall. Based on my results i question the meed for products like this; not that they doe not work, i am sure they do, i just question their need if one keeps the vehicle clean year round. Prior to,the 2000s vehicles were more prone to rust but not so much now.
Doesn’t drilling of the body panels introduce weak spots for the rust to create? Can you opt out from that part of the process and do just the undercarriage?
And wouldn't the holes affect resale value? I personally wouldn't buy a drilled car lol
It does create weak spots but in my experience, the little rubber caps and oil prevent any rust from starting in those areas. You can opt out but I don’t see why you should, considering that’s one of the best parts of the oil application.
@@khelgarironfist3301 Logically speaking...I don't see how a car with a drilled out hole to apply rust proofing is worth less than a car with holes from created by said rust.
@@skifree0 not every non-drilled car is automatically rusty though
What's a good way to get salt off in the winter at home? Would one of those garden sprayers work so I don't freeze my hose? I might have to look to see if I have a krown near me for my Miata
There is an attachment for a pressure washer (i know) that's kinda like a bar with sprayers pointing upwards that you can roll under your car to knock out any loose salt out
Krown sells a salt eliminator product that does a great job, but an upward pressure washer should do the trick too
What snow tires do you run? I’ve got Michelin x ice on my 15 brz and they did perfect that one snow storm we’ve had
Just got my first set of X-Ice snows this year, so far so good 👍
Too bad Krown isn't available here in Idaho :(
Is this sponsored ?
Interesting. Priced not to bad.