Chop Saw to Engine Starter Conversion - The Handbreaker.
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- Опубликовано: 15 авг 2023
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What you need is the worlds most powerful 2 stroke connected to your engine. That should spin it fast enough to start it.
donkey engines are a thing.
@@oldninjarideryou mean like pony engines? like on the big old diesels in ancient construction equipment?😂
@@oldninjarider
Alex can't see it, that he's getting himself in trouble 😵💫
😂😂😂😂😂
A suggestion for the high speed/torque starter. The starters they use on race bikes are similar, but they include a peg on the starter that fits into a matching recess on the bikes frame. That way the torque from starting is countered by the bike and not the user's hands.
yeah if that things snags up somehow hes gonna snap a finger or a wrist
Adding to this good advice would be to frequently lubricate the starter ratchet mechanism with a high quality grease
Your video's are a constant refill of good entertainment. You have cracked the code for a quality viewing experience for everyone with a tinkering passion.
Gratulerer...
Great content . On a side note: #1 rule of lathe work --- NEVER leave the chuck key in the chuck unless your hand is on it. A flying chuck key is a good way to get dead quick !
Thanks for the tip! All my methods were slow!! hahaha
I'm so guilty of leaving the chuck key in the lathe at work. I've tossed that thing across the room so many times I'm temped to put a string on it and tie it to my wrist. But my spidey sense tells me that's an even worse idea than being consistently forgetful.
@@Relaxiknowarchiestick the thing on a bungee cord so will always want to pull itself away from the chuck.
@@markmawson1 the lathe at my workplace got a spring on the chuck key so it jumps out as soon as you let go of it
@@Relaxiknowarchiezip tie and a holder close to your lathe 100% a good way to go you will never loose the chuck key as a added bonus
This channel is strangely relaxing to watch. Easy to swallow material. This guy would be cool to work with I can tell
While I agree. don't forget that everything on camera is a forced perspective.
I'm one hell of a moody f##k to work with but when filming or around certain people I can be the chilliest guy in the room.
I think the saying is "no one knows what goes on behind closed doors"
I think if his persona is as calm as on camera he wouldn't be as engrossed or passionate with what he does.
@@MaNNeRz91 yeah i see what you're saying but usually if someone is a total dick I can see signs of it even when they are trying to put on a fake front. I would be shocked if this guy shut the camera off and turned into a total douche.. not impossible tho
I'm a bit like him but have one hell of a short fuse as a result.....I don't have time for people because my mind is constantly on the job....
He has some indie artsy shots, and cinematic sequences sometimes that really drive a subtle but wholly background storyline..
I'm here for the nearly 50hp 50cc nitromethanol 2 stroke.
It's like a tiny tiny little Top Fuel engine.
Not so much a nitro cackle, it's got like a baby's laughter, but seeing all the engineering and science principles mirroring full size top fuel stuff, it's really fascinating.
He should warn me when he starts to weld so I can put on my goggles.
Now my eyes are starting to hurt and I have a terrible headache.
I am anticipating extremely painful sunburn tomorrow.
I have made a doctor's appointment and I hope this is not too expensive.
I will do my best to shut down this channel and am going to contact my lawyer.
It seems my cat is also starting to be affected.
I am wearing my favourite sweater and it appears to be ruined by the bleaching from the UV.
I am not very happy about this. I hope he is more careful in the future.
I feel like you should revisit the compression. I know you feel like the 100 PSI (with your gauge) is enough and maybe you are right, but you should get another compression gauge and confirm. I have seen many mechanics and friends waste crazy money and time trying to repair something just to call me over for help and I test and find too low of compression. Confirming *adequate* compression early as possible is always a must. No exception.
Don’t lose sight of the Forrest for the trees as they say… sometimes it’s the simple things
@@fullsendmarinedarwin7244 yes exactly
@baby-sharkgto4902 I agree!! It is very big chance that this could be compression issue, out with the spark plug and check with a good comp gauge👍 i personally prefer numbers higher than 150psi on 50cc-250cc performance 2strokes, if numbers are lower, with new piston and rings, i remove basegasket, or reduce squishband by changing to thinner headgasket or mill down the head to bump up compression, and if its a bit high and it "pings" from pre knock, i retard timing accordingly, or reduce compression slightly if its not enough with retarded timing
A chainsaw starter would be cool. You could use a bicycle chain and the matching gears to control the starting speed.
Great idea❤
"It's powerful 2-strokes all the way down." T. Pratchett
Like the old caterpillar diesel engines with a pony motor, except it'd be a chainsaw starter engine for a ridiculously tuned 50cc 2 stroke engine 😅
Another nutty idea would be a starter motor with a cvt setup, because why not? 😊
I love the way you say square peg in a round whole with a straight face! 😂
Have you opened up the cylinder since you installed the rotary valve and the problems started? Those running issues seem too strange to be caused by just resonances. A guy I know also said that his engine ran fine even when the rotary valve had obvious leaks.
To me the engine sounds extremely weak. It is very sluggish to raise the rpm even though there is no load and no heavy flywheel. It obviously has almost zero torque as it refuses to run with the gearbox attached. To me there is no other explanation than the cylinder has lost compression. It sounded exactly the same when you battled with the 100% exhaust port immediately ruining the piston ring. Maybe it has pinched the piston ring after hitting the head on the insane rpms you gave it some time back or the piston ring is otherwise damaged. Or head gasket leaks. I remember that you have a "relative" compression gauge that you already used to check but at this point I would remove the cylinder anyway.
I agree that there is likely a much more fundamental issue with the engine, it feels like he is going down blind alleys chasing his theories. I pointed out in a previous video that this all started when he went back to his rotary valve, it started just fine on the reed valves.
@ASoftaaja; Looking forward to seeing your speed-week video whenever it drops 🙂
@@ericschumacher5189 Me too, really looking forward to that.
with the addition of a simple handle you can easily turn that handbreaker into a ballsmasher.
Nut cracker, dual purpose device
2stroke stuffing. Stuffing square pegs into round holes since 1987.
small steps in the right direction is still progress. Nice thinking with the rip saw btw.
Good Video as always 👍
I want to pitch you two ideas.
1. Have you thought of using a starter that you put under the rear wheel, like they use them in motogp? Or is it too much trouble because of the dyno..
2. In case you might need the exhaust leak again: what about a piece of pipe with large oval cutouts thats fixed to your exhaust flange. It has to have the right diameter to slide your exhaust over it. Make it a bit longer than the distance you had to hold the exhaust away from the flange for startup. That way you can slide it back and forth to vary the area of the uncovered holes. And when your rpm is high enough you just slide it all the way to the flange et voilá
No tool is safe in your shop. Whatever it takes to get it running is what's used.....first a mitre box for the linear bearings, then a radial arm saw for the motor starter...they are all lined up with sad eyes wondering which one is going to be used next. Love it.
Try some radical changes to the ignition timing at low rpm… it may help.
In the last video you can see liquid fuel sputtering out the inlet of the carb. Timing may help though..
Sounds small, but maybe holding the clutch in to reduce some of the rotational drag of the transmission while starting might help.
Need three hands for that.
I was thinking the same, a simple clip on the clutch lever should do the job which can be removed once running
@@bridged13blike the clutch handle assembly on 2 stroke bike kits, they have the mechanism you describe
Not many people like you who can think out of the box a true inventor thanks for keeping this project going you will succeed.
like a fart in a whirl wind
Not many? You need to wake up
@@janeblogs324 think you misunderstood the sentence.
Gases appeared to be exiting the carb at times. I hope you noticed this.
the air is bouncing on the valve when it closes, this happends in pretty much all engines.
at 19:41 the fuel begins to drip again .. until 20:40
I can't wait to see this running on the road..
At this rate I can't see that ever happening. Sorry. 2 years on and still doesn't even have a consistently running engine.
Never going to happen.
He's making a living off of failure not success
You guys do not understand the lore
@@cringram1003 "making a living off of failure" Nailed it. The fanboys can't see it.
what a blessing so many videos in a week
Ots good to see you making some good headway with this project.
An air tool or a router spins at fairly high RPM and both have a collet chuck in place for your starter shaft.
But the torque is the problem here, the rpm of the saw is high enough to start it without the gearbox...
The starting rpm is still the same with the gearbox BUT the resistance in the system also gets applied to the saw and reduces the rpm to much
I think a router would ignite before the engine ever would ^^
What I am missing a little (having watched for a couple years) is that we had an engine that made decent HP, then we changed engine type and did a bunch of research making decent HP again with methanol, carbs, blowers etc. Then we decided it was maybe flawed, stripped everything off to get at the root - and now it hardly starts or works at all. This is not a complaint - I love the channel, but I am confused as to where everything went tits-up from 20+ HP to "can't hardly start it". I must have missed something?
I am seeing same. Something fucked up un the process.
Have you not realised he hasn't measured vacuum at multiple points of the inlet,carb,ports yet? Its all guess work but engines are air pumps and 2 strokes are reversion air pumps
Love it keep it up wanna see that bike absolutley flying
If I remember correctly you had like 90 psi secondary compression.
Stop the advanced tail chasing and cut a new head with a wide squish for torque and get up to 150psi. I ran 210 on a 784cc twin on Aviation Fuel and kicked ass
I hope I get to see you in person at Bonneville one day... I love the way your mind works and I can't wait to see the outcome!!
Amazing progress!
Seems like you need to find the drag in the gearbox. High case volume at low rpm will cause the case air to become almost stagnant with any exhaust restriction. Need a choke on the intake side at startup to keep flow direction from in to out not out to in. Just a thought
Try two exhaust pipes, one for getting going and on the bottom, the other for top end.
Compound exhast
Kind of exists already, variable geometry exhaust system where the length changes vs RPM, sounds very complicated to pull off
Reminds me of an F1 starter and also F1 engines idle pretty high at around 5k or maybe more. Have you considered, space allowing, to add a 1:2 or 1:3 pully ratio between the engine and gearbox? It May help reduce the drag
Is the pulley between the crank and trans an idler?
Use an over sized idler with a modified hub (holes or splines) with a corresponding drive on your chop-starter,,,,,
Use a four-stroke to reliably start your two-stroke. I pressure wash my two-stroke with a four-stroke every week.
Way to put in the work! Loving the content man!
How about a starter system that drives the rear wheel like they use on race bikes..? That way you can use the gearbox to your advantage and get the engine turning over pretty much any speed you like....
5in Angle grinder is what you need. Good work
when this thing gets on the pipe it sounds amazing!
It's great watching the madness of invention come to life 😊😅🎉
One approach to running issues may be what you are expecting the engine to do...finding a balance between it being a tractable motor that will idle and pull cleanly to full rpm or rough/no idle and screaming rpm and heaps of top end power....so the approach would be either a race tuned engine or a commuter engine.finding that sweet spot is always hard.
10:59 Greatest moment of this video, possibly the greatest moment of your entire channel - Unchain the Mad Scientist! Circular saws be damned!
Love your video you remined me off John Britton he build a bike in shed at home still holds records till this day I think can't wait to see the 50cc smokeys on the pipe💨💨
Build a small gearbox for the drill so you can increase the gear ratio an make it spin faster,or use a angle grinder they spin fast and have good torque to
A 9” grinder will have a lot of umph
Yes,i like it . Keep the Projekt alive .
I love your ingenuity... need a faster starter so hack a chop saw up to make one 👍
With the amount of air coming back out of the carb at low speed you might have hit the law of diminishing returns running n/a and need the supercharger just to get it run at all at low speed, although that would be one hellacious powerband to work with past the hump 😁
the air is bouncing on the valve when it closes, this happends in pretty much all engines.
@@KalLanPIDT true. By my line of thinking is low rpm there's just not enough velocity to get things flowing, Detroit only used the blower on their 2 stroke diesels to blow out the exhaust and bring in the fresh, not as boost, they won't start and run without the blower but theoretically run just fine without the blower once they're up to speed and have that flow going. What's more, his belt driven centrifugal CAN be setup very easily only as blow-through at low speed for starting & idling, and to start opening the blowoff valve in a linear fashion starting at say 6500 to get the boost back down as rpm goes up (it's an arbitrary number just for discussion sake).. so the engine won't immediately blow itself apart with way too much boost. You have to get that air moving in one direction, and a bit of blower I think is the perfect tool for that; to get it started and running, with the blowoff valve opening up the second the engine goes over the hump. That's just my 2 cents on it
@@KalLanPIDT come to think of it I'd almost bet money it wouldn't take more than a measley 1 or 2 psi max to get that thing to start and idle just fine, and right as it went over the hump dump all the boost so it's no longer being force fed.. or let it keep a tiny bit of boost and just give her the beans 😁
How about applying the shop vacuum to the exhaust tail pipe....?
@@fredmitchel1236 🙄 Copied directly from Wikipedia so you can get an idea of what I'm talking about: "The blower is necessary to charge the cylinders with air for combustion. The blower also assists in scavenging spent combustion gasses at the end of the power stroke." Now used in this configuration for his application (belt-driven centrifugal supercharger driven off the crankshaft, which he's already got) would definitely get it to start and idle by doing away with that destructive resonance at low rpm.. once over the hump he can open up the blow-off valve in the charge pipe essentially letting the engine run n/a at that point. Or leave it partially closed and use the boost pressure for a little more power in the powerband..
My old yamaha dt125 used to be a bitch to start.. having to get it turning real quick to start the engine..
After tearing it down I noticed the rings were quite worn out.
After a rebore , new piston and rings it started first kick very easily..
On this..I'd be checking the rings and cylinder for gouges / scratches etc... seems like low compression at low rpm..
Worth a look ❤
have you even watched the previous videos?
Keep going your gonna get there eventually.
Think about it
Low secondary compression will make it hard to start especially down on low rpm and would explain why you can’t run the belt too the transmission like you did before
This tuning has transcended physics and gotten into witchcraft
Oh and use and overrun alternator pulley to drive your fan dangle socket spin a’ma thingy!
I love progress!
What if you hold the clutch when starting then at least not the gearbox is spinning and a little bit less of mass and friction
Just goes to show what black magic 2 stroke engines are! Totally beyond my small brain.
I wonder if a brushless motor for the starter setup would be more beneficial. My reasoning for this is that you should be able to control the power output speed a bit easier with the brushless. . So you can have a smooth ramping power delivery. Save the wrists some too hopefully.
You'd need a seriously big BLDC...
And ESC for that, don't think that is going to happen anytime soon
@@SuperUltimateLP well my thoughts, of ever thinking on the cheap and accessible. Is that your probably going to need a gear box to hit that rpm range anyways. If you where scavenge the BLDC's from something like a cordless drill. Which your at a point now you can get them dirt cheap at a pawn shop or even the cheap kinda harbor freight/import tool giant places.
Plus I know I would want to add a push engagement mechanism. Like you find on most car starters. So that once it starts running, its not going to try to bring you along with it. By disengaging.
Maybe a vacuum actuated valve instead of the bolt thing. That way once it’s running and making enough vacuum it will close it off
😊good Work as always😊
An easy way to get rid of the zinc galvanizing is to put the part in brick cleaner which is a dilute acid, until it no longer produces bubbles. You can just pick it out with your hands and wash them afterwards - it is not highly corrosive.
Did he say "Hooked up to Power the bike"😲 😂 Amazed to hear him say that, it's only been trillions of hours testing😂already 😅
No I love his dedication and persistent ❤👊👏👏👏👏👏
dipping the tip is real.
I guess you could use a vfd to ''overdrive'' the chop saw motor safely up to ~20% or so. Vfds are readily available and relatively cheap aswell.
I know you like to figure out stuff yourself but I feel it might be time for some input.
You need to use the symptoms to get to the root cause and at the moment you are following the symptom seeking a solution with it.
So some points to take from the last few vids.
Remember the basics of pipe that the "pulses" in the exhaust are not pressure pulses they are energy waves that create a distortion of pressure only at the location of the wave not a movement of pressure, hence opening up the pipe has no effect because the waves are not pressure.
But you have ascertained that the waves do have some effect on the revving by moving the pipe some distance from the manifold, so remember that the waves go back in to the cylinder and what goes in to the cylinder also goes back to the intake.
Using a longer pipe makes a difference so that is also telling you there is something going on with the exhaust waves.
You have a very low primary compression so it should come as no surprise any waves going back down the transfers are going to easily upset the intake as there isn't much primary compression to offset that.
Note at 20:18 that cloud of vapor at the carby, that looks like heavy reversion out of the carb.
If it is that then at that point in the RPM fuel and air is just resonating backwards and forward in the carb throat and not making it to the cylinder and no amount of mixture adjustment will get that to the cylinder even choking the carb
If the fuel gets to the cylinder and you have compression and ignition it WILL rev even if compression, ignition and AF ratio or not precise. That's just engine basics.
So in the absence of direct injection how can you get the fuel to the cylinder. Fix the reversion at the carb ?
Ok so how to do that while leaving it with a large crank case and low primary compression, maybe you might experiment with a boost bottle between the carb and crankcase, one variable in size so you can tune it to the RPM the reversion is worst and have it cancel out the reversion resonance.
Something analogous to a bicycle pump with a large hose going to the intake manifold, you can push the plunger of it in or out in increments to adjust the volume of it and see if that has any effect on the reversion. Once you dial that in then get a bottle of that volume and use it in place.
Anyway that might give you some ideas.
I agree; our reply has good logic / recommendations. One suggestion I made a few videos back was, adding a length of rubber tubing before the carburetor with some form of velocity-stack on the end of it. Start with a long length then cut the rubber tubing down incrementally, to see what effect it has. I don't think my suggestion is a viable fix, but it could help shed light on what the problem actually is, as it should down on reversion and make the engine (seem) like it has greater primary compression, due to greater carburetor signal.....if a given length allows the engine to function at lower rev's but limits the maximum RPM, that would directionally point towards some of the rationale you highlighted in your comment, and it should be really easy to try / a non-permanent modification.
Centrifugal clutch with an engaging rpm of 5000 or manual dry clutch with a lever on the crank shaft gear so no transmition to start and it could engage centrifugally or manually
"The Handbreaker" I love it.
Thanks for the Video Alex!! Big Carb is leaking😢
Plenty of dynos have starters, dont have to rev that high either if you jump it in 1 or second.. would save you some trouble maybe..
spin the drum on the dyno while cranking the engine. this should help get the RPM,s up I think. good luck
Does that low RPM resonance just kill the produced power, or does it also add physical resistance to the system? Maybe it's worth a shot to not have ignition firing under the desired idle (if that doesn't immediately flood the engine)
Mhm in a normal engine that lost is so minuscule I wouldn't even consider that the reflected shock wave is pushing against the piston but that engine is by design made for so high rpm that it's efficency and capacity at low rpm could stall the engine so much that even that effect could play a role
Also a interessting solution you mentioned
Compression release mechanism like old Briggs n Stratton
Exhaust manifold to pipe.
Round hole for triangle peg.
Tune the PULSES which are 2 fold.
Pulses out of engine & pulses reflected Back down exhaust.
So if we accept only a 50/50% starting fuel efficiency:
How about removing the triangle peg etcand replace the cap with an electronic fuel injector?
Wind up the starter and then give a squirt of fuel into the exhaust port that will (at the revs where it wont start) be sucked back into the engine.
Richen the mixture at point of no start only.
Great work.
Much respect.
Would be cool if you use a 2stroke power starter to start the most powerfull 2stroke you get the idea
A big Sthil chainsaw would definitely do it lol
you should try using a intake cover choke system it shouldwork
To maximize the Powerband from botton up, you need a variable exhaust port slidervalve like at Kartmotors installed. i see you are engeniering in this direction.
I wanted to show one of those pipes to him but can’t post pix, a bazooka or center bleed pipe with a slider racing go cart pipe should help with the suffering, plus 90 pounds of compression is almost impossible too start!
OH! what a web we weave? Battle on Alex.
Here is a thought, perhaps as the engine is in such a state of tune, maybe you have to treat it like an F1 engine.
In order for such an engine to start the engine has to be warmed up before the engine is started....the tolerances are so tight that ttying start an F1 engine from cold would result in the engine being locked up.
Maybe its worth a try, great videos as always..... keep up the good work.
In thinking the belt might be the issue with the un balanced rotation of the engine trying to split to life, sounds like it is rubber banding back and messing with harmonics or something... try to use 3 gears and see if that would be good... the added inertia should help keep the rpm up and not be pulsing like its trying to pull a runberband... thanks for the head scraching theorys, i have been saving up parts to build my own dyno and tune gx200s
Idk anything bout 2strokes but would happen if the pulse was connected to the intake with a way too modulate idk just something that popped up in my head. Anyways thank you for the videos bub take it easy and God bless you and yours
Put a engine clutch on it, I just haven't thought out what style!
Alex, there's petrol pissing out of your carb.
I know you're not trying to make an engine that is easy to use, but I can't help thinking if you've made an engine that will only run pretty much WOT, and even then only with the gearbox disconnected, there's a fundamental problem somewhere else. I thought the idea at the moment was to go back to something more conventional that could be baselined and reliably dynoed before moving on to more radical stuff one step at a time.
If you want a fast starter, though, a cheap second hand 230mm angle grinder should get you above 6500 rpm with no problems, and be easy to adapt a spindle onto, as long as it spins in the right direction.
Would starting it through the transmission be viable? Pick up the back wheel with a kickstand and spin the whole drivetrain with a torquey motor. Could try a few different gears too, but probably wouldn’t be compatible with the new starter.
What oil do you use in gearbox? Try preheating it or use lower viscosity oil. Smaller cc 2strokes are vulnerable to it.
Seems it takes a long time of "spinning it up" before it wants to start.
I noticed this in the last video; almost like it needs to be "pre-warmed" before starting.
It's kinda similar to the 4cylinder RC125 from Honda, where it only works at 9000RPM. That thing was fast fast.
The pulses at low rpm blowing back into the engine are visible after you changed the carb, fuel vapour is being blown out of the carb at low rpm.
Maybe change the belt for a chain, that should have less resistance. Best would be a gear train, but that's difficult to build as it needs an enclosed oil bath at those rpm's.
Try using air compressor blow gun aimed at the carburetor to increase the Venturi effect on start up
This Guy is an unstopable maniac. Thumbs up
Go kart starter for race setups there's other types of handheld bump starters out there
add the clutch before the belt (between the crankshaft and the belt) ? Nice video and much applause for you commitment !
Might look at a late 60's Ford starter motor to tear down and adapt. Add a pushbutton and Ford style starter solinoid.
Also look how 60's drag racers coupled to the blower for starting. You'll want a bracket to take the torque and not your hands.
Get that sorted and you can build a handtruck to move the battery around and hang the started on in the pits (or use a kids wagon).
Decompression valve? Get it spinning then release the valve?
You need a “For testing purposes” shirt
Hy
If you put bigger pulley on the gearbox and put your starter on the gearbox shaft you gain some starter speed and it would help too engage the clutch and reduce the gearbox drag overall
Its like tuning a demon core on a nuclear bomb !!! Get that sweet spot !!!
A Helmholtz Resonator which you could shut off after reaching 6000 RPM could help.The gate should mounted direct after the cylinder at the exhoust pipe. Resonance should be of about your starter Frequency
Before the ignition fires up, the pipe works as a volume resonator (Helmholtz Resonator) If the Frequency is close to the starter frequency you are in trouble. This is your issue. After ignision and have efficient detonation pulses your Pipe work in parallel to a sound speed resonator. After your passed the Helmholz Resonance of the pipe your issue is gone.
If you plug a parallel Helmholz resonator to your pipe which works at the same Frequency as yor pipe it will absorb the issue Frequency. But you have to shut the resonator off after you are in working RPM. If not, the resonator will still work and create issues if you reach Double and multiple frequencys
@@mitder50uberdiealpen15 - Totally agree
I love your Chanel boostéd small engine . Super jobs . Always happy See New video of you . And i love more your Olds WTF name :)
i think you need to install a clutch between the engine to the gear box. lol. or just use low viscosity gear oil, i think itwell help a bit.
It's like a Formula One starter for the bike! I love it!
I was thinking a different gear box. A torque converter from a go cart. Comet makes them I think. A variable exhaust port or power valve like in the Rotax 257 engine. Just smaller. It’s adjustable.
How hard would it be to install a compression release, I think with the addition of a compression release you would solve your issue
Ehmm no I don't think so compression release systems are in need for high displacement high compression engines because the compression of that dissplaced air inside requires same work and well at about 500ccm is about the limit a normal human cann start with a Kickstarter without compression Release or to save weight on a big heavyer starter (aircraft engines from the wwii era are a great example for that) also the lower compress Mode for starting produces less power (since lower compression leads to lower thermal efficiency aka less heat(out of the fuel) is converted in motion (rotation)) and the engine in the video stalls very easy indicating that the power output and friction match each other soo yeha
@@TheLtVoss I'm guessing you have no experience with stihl chainsaws then
@@countryguywithcamerawell I have probably more experience than you with chainsaws and combustion engines it is the same thing you let same air back out of the cylinder leading too less mixture and lowered pressure in the cylinder (easyer too pull over the compression stock but less power Runnig with the valve open) also I mentioned Kickstarter in combo with 500ccm engines chainsaws have a pullstarter that don't have the advantage of gravity assistance and way stronger leg muscles compared to a Arm that is pulling on a cord so they use it for a bit smaller engines than in bikes (so you can start a powerfull engine with a very light starter system)
@@TheLtVoss "so you can start a powerful engine with a light starter system"
Thank you for validating my point when attempting to measure dicks.
It's funny you make an assumption on someones knowledge without knowing shit, my statement about your knowledge of the lack of compression releases on Smaller engine still holds true.
He's trying to start a "powerful engine" and he's struggling getting it spinning fast enough because friction on the drive belt.
A compression release would reduce over all resistance, and allow it to start and then once the comp release closes on start up its a non issue
So glad you are back and full enthusiastic again Alex thanks for the videos
started to followed you recently thnks to youtube suggestion....Love your work! ... I see you with your needle nose plier to install/remove your exhaust spring: You should really think about using(pretty sure you have one)/buying a proper hook tool. The one time you slip make you wonder why you didn't used it ;)
awesome!! I love the new starter motor. At 19:55 I noticed fuel dripping from the bottom of the carb...
Would adding the supercharger back to it fix the starting problem?
maybe it is because of the reduced volume in the crankcase if you take out the reducer the pipe will run
greatings from germany