Two steps forward and one step back. That's how it always goes in research and development. I've been working in the field for 10 years now, and we're still reinventing the wheel on a regular basis. Don't worry about repeating so many small and big mistakes. All other highly-paid engineers do it too. It's nice to see that you're obviously mentally feeling uphill again! Best wishes from germany!
I know the feeling 😁. I worked as an R&D Engineer for the automotive companies. Been retired for 12 years and still hard at it on my own. It's still in my blood! 😁
yeah i can see why you would call him a genius as you are most likely to be the product of a millennial..today you are looking at technology that was obsolete 60 years ago .. super charged two strokes already exist ..the present land speed record for 50 cc motorcycles is 150 mph
@@OneHappyCrazyPerson making claims he convenientely will not make at this time to leave his captivated audience hanging in suspense at the end of each episode...then only to find in the next episode an unexpected catástrofe has cause a major set back followed by a negativa series of events . Sound about right to You ?
So glad everything came together so you can continue the good work. This is one of my few channels I really look forward to the next video in the series. Its just relaxing watching you work on and troubleshoot this motor. I must say I do miss the jazz music in the background.
Just a FYI, I saw a video a long time ago of a guy rebuilding an engine on a light plane/ultraglide, when assembling the cases they apply the gasket goo and add a single strand of thread around the circumference, I don't recall the type, but it stops the cases getting squeezed too tight together squeezing all the gasket material out. I'll see if I can find it. Good luck with your project.
@@2STROKESTUFFING I can't get over getting a reply from you, made my day! 😀 I really do hope so as it would be great to see the power figures. Good going with the engine though. I'm an engine builder from the UK so I know your pain 🤣
@@2STROKESTUFFINGyour inertia dyno is as accurate as any other dyno keep it up man I think a lot of these people haven’t gone back and seen your spx build that thing made some ponies
isnt it more important from any dyno that it shows how the hp/torque improves by the various changes done between each run, rather than show the exact hp/torque? as i understand it many dynos will give different results and some brands are even known to show higher numbers than others... is it even possible to find the exact numbers?, dont we get a comparable result at best?
It was awesome to see it start, and start so incredibly easily to... I am very excited to see the next video on Friday, and what kind of power the engine will make now.
The original Norton Manx engines had the problem with crank flex wearing out the bearings and even cracking the cases at high revs, they changed to bearings that allowed the misalignment of the crank when flexed. The races had a spherical element to them but the balls remained in contact even with the inner race being skewed out of alignment. You could probably find something similar for your bearings. Something similar was used on Chevy Corvair rear wheel bearings to allow the half axles to move within the bearing and keep the trailing arm from flexing along with the half axle angle.
Alex, I take it you didn't see my previous posts on your last two videos about how you re-engineered the Rotary valve and the carb side of the Rotary valve casing to be perfectly smooth, but yet left the engine side of the Rotary valve casing with circled grooves in it. Again, as you (and anyone) will know, take two perfectly flat surfaces, and place some oil between them, they will slide oooohhh so easily (having grooves would only hamper that)... So... Just as a suggestion?🤔 Maybe take the time to re-engineer and flatten that motor side casing so it too is ultra flat? It might help with reducing friction/wear of the Rotary valve itself and possibly help the action of the Rotary valve too... What say you? 🤔😏 But... Anyways... Except from temporarily losing the small end bearing, and temporarily forgetting to seal the casings up (it's those silly little things isn't it? Haha)... It's great to see you getting back to progress after the 'Arm & Hammer Charcoal Toothpaste Incident' 😉😛🤣🤣🤣 🤞 for a speedy recovery to massive power gains! 👍 😎🇬🇧
Awesome build and instant start! I hope you will continue thinking about the difficulty starting the engine with destroyed bearings, and do a presentation illustrating why that damage effected start-up and power production so greatly. I love that you left in the part where you omitted the sealant, and had to do it over again. The best!
Good job Alex... Maybe a shim can be placed in the O-ring groove...so it pushes out the O-ring farther, increases the squish and seals the cover...also perhaps create a hollow cylindrical collar...that ensures the crank is concentric to the seal O.D.... Its great to see it fire right up after all the new goodies were installed.. 😮
putting the gasket between the carter and cover of the rotary valve increases the gap of the rotary valveplate in its seat as it moves the cover away from the motor you could lay a sliver of gasket material inside the groove of the o ring and lay the o ring on top of it , should raise the o ring out of the groove some
I’ve heard Jacob’s chucks have hardened jaws which do not grip carbide or hardened materials like they do with relatively soft drill shanks. Thanks for sharing your progress with us!
A lot of times With a spring-loaded lip seal You can take the Spring out it screws into itself remove a couple of coils Carefully with a small cut off wheel thread it back into itself to tighten the fit I've had to do this in my automotive career Where the old seal had Worn a deep groove into the rotating part and would not seal up with a standard new seal tightening up the lip fix the problem Might help your situation Also slightly Oversizing bolt holes Installing the seal and the Center Seal surface before Tightening down bolts will self center itself Just like installing an General motors LS style timing cover install the dampener in the seal before you Tighten the bolts on the timing cover should center itself
yes ,this is it ,the one ,the way she started right up almost first rotation is a great sign,especially wile loosing slight compression 😁and sounded sound and tight,good times ahead brother ,and you definitely deserve some 😎
Perfect start!! That´s very promising!! You´re again on the crest of the wave!!...you´re strong, don´t forget bad times don´t last too much. Come on!!!!!!
Heres a tip with o rings that doesnt seal or is a bit to thin. Before putting the o ring in its groove ,put some sealant in the groove, then install the o ring. Wipe the exes sealant off then lightly instal the part so that the o ring is sitting evenly all round. Then remove the part so that the sealant can dry. Now re install the part and u good to go.
hello always a pleasure to look at you for your joint problem some turn of teflon tape the same that we use in heating insert in the groove of the joint then put the joint back and this can help to increase the thickness for a better tightening in addition the teflon resists heat well. good continuation towards a success of which I have no doubt. best regards jp
Who’s ready to see some powerrrr, man I’ve been watching this channel since the nitro spx for all the haters out there this guy knows what he’s doing and knows how to make power on a conventional 50cc the issue here is this isn’t a conventional 50cc this is in theory the highest flowing 50cc ever made, the exhaust power has more area than most 125cc when the tuning and reliability is figured out this thing will be a monster at 10-14,000 rpms
With the rotory valve cover, it might pay to drill and tap extra bolt's in between what you have there. Those bearings must of been putting a lot of labour on the motor filled with black death. The oil lines in crank case was a good idea Alex 👍😬
Hey up mate thought you were been very brave bolting those cases together without and then five or so minutes later, really cool it now needs less rpm to fire up, good work, and super looking forward to Friday, all the best wishes to you
11:46 I am not a big fan about how you apply the sealant here, only to the outer perimeter of the case. I am scared you will have leaks through the screws/ drew holes of the case.. you should apply it to the inner perimeter if not all the surface of the case seam imo. Hope this helps
Have you considered using permatex aviation form-a-gasket? It's a liquid sealant used on machined surfaces where squeeze out could be a problem. Commonly used on cam carriers where normal sealant squeeze out could interfere with the cam bearings
@@TheMeta6 It's nasty stuff to clean up though. Yamabond is much easier to clean up for the next teardown. I use aviation sealer for aircooled VW cases, but those stay together for 50k+ miles.
@@Zt3v3 yeah I didn't really consider the need for easy strip and rebuild, there maybe better options out there. You need isopropyl alcohol to remove permatex... sometimes needs soaking for a while but not too difficult to get off.
At 13:31 you quenched (harden) what look like to be copper head bolt washers, wouldn't it be more appropriate to let them air cool (anneal, make pliable)
You should consider getting a digital torque wrench, or a bar type, as the clicky kind have a tendency to overtorque, and aren't as accurate in the first place. May not matter much but who knows.
Love your vids and watching you learn along with us. Old school trick for stopping bearing movement, use a Dot punch on the case to make some small marks and that locks the bearing in place, saves locktight in the engine :) in saying that, is locktight bad in an engine? Might dissolve really fast anyways
Btw. Have you taken on account the air temperature? For best power the difference in air density and amount of molecules of oxygen in same amount of air in liters, is from 10 to 20 percent from 5 to 30 celsius and another factor is the humidity, so the higher percent is in low temperatures with lots of water vapour in the air. So foggy cold morning would best for high power readings and ofc garage door open at that time.
Would it be possible to modify the stuffers used back in May to run with the disc valve induction. Also polite reminder to take a compression reading for future reference.
like on mixed fuel snowmobile engines, they have a cavity and hole to the backside of the bearing and the crank provides a centrifugal force that pulls the fuel mix through the bearings. Im curious why you dont use double rings on your pistons?
Im really into 2 stroke motorcycles an i really apriciate that you keep posting these videos! So what hone do you use for your cilinder because i am looking into buying one. Have a great one, keep it up!
my fav mad scinetist
🤘
Mad the correct term
5 years ago we was at the exact same stage, 😱
Two steps forward and one step back. That's how it always goes in research and development. I've been working in the field for 10 years now, and we're still reinventing the wheel on a regular basis. Don't worry about repeating so many small and big mistakes. All other highly-paid engineers do it too. It's nice to see that you're obviously mentally feeling uphill again!
Best wishes from germany!
IN DEUTSCHLAND GIBT ES KEINE FEHLER, NUR RESULTATE
@@aeroxdima7777ich arbeite für eine amerikanische Firma... Da macht man mit deutscher Gründlichkeit Fehler 😂😂😂 auch Fehler sind Resultate... 👍
Grüße aus Bayern 🎉
No, engineers don't make mistakes, we create features.
I know the feeling 😁. I worked as an R&D Engineer for the automotive companies. Been retired for 12 years and still hard at it on my own. It's still in my blood! 😁
You did not "FORGET" to put sealant on the mating faces...
You did a "DRY ASSEMBLY" TO SEE THAT EVERYTHING WAS GOOD...
Nice work - keep it up please.
This guy is not just a genius he’s a mechanic gone wild❤❤❤
More engineer than mechanic, but yeah. "Genius" often gets thrown around a lot, but in this case it's very much appropriate.
1
yeah i can see why you would call him a genius as you are most likely to be the product of a millennial..today you are looking at technology that was obsolete 60 years ago .. super charged two strokes already exist ..the present land speed record for 50 cc motorcycles is 150 mph
@@OneHappyCrazyPerson making claims he convenientely will not make at this time to leave his captivated audience hanging in suspense at the end of each episode...then only to find in the next episode an unexpected catástrofe has cause a major set back followed by a negativa series of events . Sound about right to You ?
You guys are so cute! 😘
CONGRATS ON YOUR DONUT HORSEPOWER VIDEO REFERENCE!!
I'm having a terrible morning but seeing this get uploaded just made my day a bit better
I've had an awful day, but this has cheered me no end!
Woohoo! It sounded very healthy that little rev we got 👍😀
Great to hear the ring-ting-ting of success!
So glad everything came together so you can continue the good work. This is one of my few channels I really look forward to the next video in the series. Its just relaxing watching you work on and troubleshoot this motor. I must say I do miss the jazz music in the background.
Though the same, missing some good jazz
Try using head phones 😊.
Work shop is the music, great work.
A fresh start. It's great to see all your hard work coming to fruition!
Just a FYI, I saw a video a long time ago of a guy rebuilding an engine on a light plane/ultraglide, when assembling the cases they apply the gasket goo and add a single strand of thread around the circumference, I don't recall the type, but it stops the cases getting squeezed too tight together squeezing all the gasket material out. I'll see if I can find it. Good luck with your project.
This looks like the video I remember, showing assembly of engine cases. ruclips.net/video/n-26eqLc4pQ/видео.html
Cant wait for some dyno numbers.. keep up the good work! 💪🤜
The problem is how inaccurate his dyno is... its easerly +/- 50% which isn't good at any power level
My inertia dyno should be accurate enough.
@@2STROKESTUFFING I can't get over getting a reply from you, made my day! 😀 I really do hope so as it would be great to see the power figures. Good going with the engine though. I'm an engine builder from the UK so I know your pain 🤣
@@2STROKESTUFFINGyour inertia dyno is as accurate as any other dyno keep it up man I think a lot of these people haven’t gone back and seen your spx build that thing made some ponies
isnt it more important from any dyno that it shows how the hp/torque improves by the various changes done between each run, rather than show the exact hp/torque?
as i understand it many dynos will give different results and some brands are even known to show higher numbers than others...
is it even possible to find the exact numbers?, dont we get a comparable result at best?
It was awesome to see it start, and start so incredibly easily to... I am very excited to see the next video on Friday, and what kind of power the engine will make now.
The original Norton Manx engines had the problem with crank flex wearing out the bearings and even cracking the cases at high revs, they changed to bearings that allowed the misalignment of the crank when flexed. The races had a spherical element to them but the balls remained in contact even with the inner race being skewed out of alignment. You could probably find something similar for your bearings.
Something similar was used on Chevy Corvair rear wheel bearings to allow the half axles to move within the bearing and keep the trailing arm from flexing along with the half axle angle.
SKF makes them they are called Carb bearings
Always a treat having 2 stroke stuffing.
22:41 easy start and healthy sounds!
Write down everything that you potentially need to go back for before forgetting. Bravo
Alex, I take it you didn't see my previous posts on your last two videos about how you re-engineered the Rotary valve and the carb side of the Rotary valve casing to be perfectly smooth, but yet left the engine side of the Rotary valve casing with circled grooves in it. Again, as you (and anyone) will know, take two perfectly flat surfaces, and place some oil between them, they will slide oooohhh so easily (having grooves would only hamper that)... So... Just as a suggestion?🤔 Maybe take the time to re-engineer and flatten that motor side casing so it too is ultra flat? It might help with reducing friction/wear of the Rotary valve itself and possibly help the action of the Rotary valve too... What say you? 🤔😏
But... Anyways... Except from temporarily losing the small end bearing, and temporarily forgetting to seal the casings up (it's those silly little things isn't it? Haha)... It's great to see you getting back to progress after the 'Arm & Hammer Charcoal Toothpaste Incident' 😉😛🤣🤣🤣
🤞 for a speedy recovery to massive power gains! 👍
😎🇬🇧
See a tiny bit of space on the table you could fit some more stuff there . I was always told to do the Horning vertically because of gravity
Awesome build and instant start!
I hope you will continue thinking about the difficulty starting the engine with destroyed bearings, and do a presentation illustrating why that damage effected start-up and power production so greatly.
I love that you left in the part where you omitted the sealant, and had to do it over again.
The best!
Good job Alex...
Maybe a shim can be placed in the O-ring groove...so it pushes out the O-ring farther, increases the squish and seals the cover...also perhaps create a hollow cylindrical collar...that ensures the crank is concentric to the seal O.D....
Its great to see it fire right up after all the new goodies were installed..
😮
putting the gasket between the carter and cover of the rotary valve increases the gap of the rotary valveplate in its seat as it moves the cover away from the motor
you could lay a sliver of gasket material inside the groove of the o ring and lay the o ring on top of it , should raise the o ring out of the groove some
The dedication to this motor is unreal can't wait to see it fly down the street
Wauw - that was an easy Fast start up💪🏻
I love this channel so much , I hope the best that you get the results that you desire 😉
I’ve heard Jacob’s chucks have hardened jaws which do not grip carbide or hardened materials like they do with relatively soft drill shanks. Thanks for sharing your progress with us!
line contact, and they arent accurate. collets grip from 90% of the OD. and should be accurate. concentric...
BICYCLE ON DYNO VIDEO INSERTED INTO DONUT VIDEO 30 MINUTES AGO
A lot of times With a spring-loaded lip seal You can take the Spring out it screws into itself remove a couple of coils Carefully with a small cut off wheel thread it back into itself to tighten the fit I've had to do this in my automotive career Where the old seal had Worn a deep groove into the rotating part and would not seal up with a standard new seal tightening up the lip fix the problem Might help your situation Also slightly Oversizing bolt holes Installing the seal and the Center Seal surface before Tightening down bolts will self center itself Just like installing an General motors LS style timing cover install the dampener in the seal before you Tighten the bolts on the timing cover should center itself
4:49 I have two dead 80cc 2 strokes that can attest to the damage those little ears cause when they inevitably break off.
That engine sounds really good it has a deep rumble to it
sounding better it started instantly that is a good start
Your persistence amazes me, I would have given up years ago
yes ,this is it ,the one ,the way she started right up almost first rotation is a great sign,especially wile loosing slight compression 😁and sounded sound and tight,good times ahead brother ,and you definitely deserve some 😎
Great to see it start up with the fresh engine and all the things that now make it sing
That startup sounded very promising! Glad to see it.
Keep going bud, great content. Brilliant
Sounds like a whole different beast...
Come on Friday! .. can't wait to see this thing finally make some power .. been following this build for years 😅🎉
Perfect start!! That´s very promising!! You´re again on the crest of the wave!!...you´re strong, don´t forget bad times don´t last too much. Come on!!!!!!
Heres a tip with o rings that doesnt seal or is a bit to thin. Before putting the o ring in its groove ,put some sealant in the groove, then install the o ring. Wipe the exes sealant off then lightly instal the part so that the o ring is sitting evenly all round. Then remove the part so that the sealant can dry. Now re install the part and u good to go.
hello always a pleasure to look at you for your joint problem some turn of teflon tape the same that we use in heating insert in the groove of the joint then put the joint back and this can help to increase the thickness for a better tightening in addition the teflon resists heat well. good continuation towards a success of which I have no doubt.
best regards jp
Who’s ready to see some powerrrr, man I’ve been watching this channel since the nitro spx for all the haters out there this guy knows what he’s doing and knows how to make power on a conventional 50cc the issue here is this isn’t a conventional 50cc this is in theory the highest flowing 50cc ever made, the exhaust power has more area than most 125cc when the tuning and reliability is figured out this thing will be a monster at 10-14,000 rpms
With the rotory valve cover, it might pay to drill and tap extra bolt's in between what you have there.
Those bearings must of been putting a lot of labour on the motor filled with black death.
The oil lines in crank case was a good idea Alex 👍😬
support from your first build till this day !
Just wanted to let you know how inspirational you have been in my own quest for two-stroke high performance. Cheers from New Zealand.
Beautiful. I have a good feeling about the results this time.
Congrats mate, really looking forward to the progress now!
Nice one.
When my rc engines become hard to start or won’t idle I know it’s time to rebuild 👍🏼
Nice work ! Look forward to Friday video. Love from South Africa 🇿🇦
You can also use your cnc milling machine as coordinate measuring machine with the zero tip tool...
Well that started easy and sounded healthy.
Looking forward to Friday 👍
Hey up mate thought you were been very brave bolting those cases together without and then five or so minutes later, really cool it now needs less rpm to fire up, good work, and super looking forward to Friday, all the best wishes to you
I swear to you that I would really like to try it on my KZ kart.
You are a genius.
11:46 I am not a big fan about how you apply the sealant here, only to the outer perimeter of the case. I am scared you will have leaks through the screws/ drew holes of the case.. you should apply it to the inner perimeter if not all the surface of the case seam imo. Hope this helps
I agree, was trying to avoid too much squeeze-out into the case and forgot about the bolt holes...
Have you considered using permatex aviation form-a-gasket? It's a liquid sealant used on machined surfaces where squeeze out could be a problem. Commonly used on cam carriers where normal sealant squeeze out could interfere with the cam bearings
@@TheMeta6 It's nasty stuff to clean up though. Yamabond is much easier to clean up for the next teardown. I use aviation sealer for aircooled VW cases, but those stay together for 50k+ miles.
@@Zt3v3 yeah I didn't really consider the need for easy strip and rebuild, there maybe better options out there. You need isopropyl alcohol to remove permatex... sometimes needs soaking for a while but not too difficult to get off.
At 13:31 you quenched (harden) what look like to be copper head bolt washers, wouldn't it be more appropriate to let them air cool (anneal, make pliable)
No worries, copper doesn't harden when quenched👍
You should consider getting a digital torque wrench, or a bar type, as the clicky kind have a tendency to overtorque, and aren't as accurate in the first place. May not matter much but who knows.
I love your videos man. You put forth a lot of effort and it shows, much admiration!
Watching you work on the piston , get some leather for your block it can be cleaned up and doesn’t scratch
Love your vids and watching you learn along with us.
Old school trick for stopping bearing movement, use a Dot punch on the case to make some small marks and that locks the bearing in place, saves locktight in the engine :) in saying that, is locktight bad in an engine? Might dissolve really fast anyways
You're almost there bro! Keep it up!!! 👊🏽🙏🏽
IT STARTS!!! Love to see it!
Ser redan fram emot nästa video! Underbart arbete du har gjort Alex👏👏 Du är ett mekaniskt geni😃
I'm thinking back to your first videos and I have to say you've come a long way. Well Done.
Btw. Have you taken on account the air temperature? For best power the difference in air density and amount of molecules of oxygen in same amount of air in liters, is from 10 to 20 percent from 5 to 30 celsius and another factor is the humidity, so the higher percent is in low temperatures with lots of water vapour in the air. So foggy cold morning would best for high power readings and ofc garage door open at that time.
if you have 22 in your garage, the foggy cold morning could give up to 15% more power.
that sounds crisp even without the pipe!
At 19:39, when you are discussing the leak, what about bevelling the edge of the case hole so that there is room for the "goo" to form an O ring ?
👍 Was actually contemplating a large bevel + the current o-ring.
Hooray on the progress! Great cinematography as always.
So good to hear it run again. Can't wait for the next videos
Congratulations!!!! This is getting exciting
Good work. Cannot wait for some proper dyno pulls. Future is looking bright
this engine has become a piece of art.....
Brilliant! Am waiting (im)patiently for Friday! can't wait👏
After removing material for an access slot;
is the balance of the piston not a concern ?
Congrats! I'm so excited to see you put down numbers.
Good morning all. I dig this channel so much . Lol
Alive! It's Alive! Can't wait for 42+ pferdstarke.
Mate you are a legend. Cool calm and logical.
We missed you for a while there but super to have you back.
Keep it up and let's get 100hp😂
put a thick support ring around the cover.
WOOT on the easy start! Good job.
Great to see you back at it! Much respect!
sounds great, can't wait to hear it run on the dyno!
Could you use one of those old-school tube looking bicycle pumps to do your pressure test with?
When you get your seal, get some 2mm orings too
Complimenti Bro!non vedo l'ora di vedere il prossimo video
Wow, It start so easily now.
I was wondering when you were gonna notice the missing sealant :D
From one mad shed head too another Good Job. Keep it up.
great job, zipped right along thru that video, was good to see
Gonna love this
Finally back on track and looking good for some new testing...well done 👍👏😎
Woodruff key: I'm angry and I'm not alone.
Lovely castings, piston is definitely unobtainium.
Woodruff keys, we need a better way ....🤔👍
Would it be possible to modify the stuffers used back in May to run with the disc valve induction.
Also polite reminder to take a compression reading for future reference.
It actually starts
like on mixed fuel snowmobile engines, they have a cavity and hole to the backside of the bearing and the crank provides a centrifugal force that pulls the fuel mix through the bearings. Im curious why you dont use double rings on your pistons?
Oh yes, autumn and winter is garage time
Some homemade cardboard gaskets would be even better. Mechanics have been doing it for a century or more with great results.
Hey @2STROKESTUFFING was there a mistake made? At 7:10 --- 36.9 + 36.8 = 73.7 ... you calculated with 36.09 and 36.08 ...
Yeah, was 09/08, wrong words, right calculation.
Avoid tappning your shaft with a hammer during assembly (rotary valve end) and your ball bearing will last longer😉
True, hopefully those light taps weren't too harmful.
Malet or wooden hammer handle
Been missing you my friend!
Great video as always, thanks for sharing. Why are you not using a fiber rotary valve instead? Like on the Yamaha FS1 Drejeventil :)
Thanks! Have experienced some problems with abrasive dust from wear with a carbon valve, playing it safe with steel for now.
Im really into 2 stroke motorcycles an i really apriciate that you keep posting these videos! So what hone do you use for your cilinder because i am looking into buying one. Have a great one, keep it up!
Thanks! Varing.hu