Pro Rig Builders Don't Want You To Know This SECRET!
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- Опубликовано: 29 сен 2024
- Proper cable management makes a pedalboard easy to troubleshoot and easy on the eyes. Today, I'm showing you how to route your cables like the pros, so you can get beautiful photo-worthy cable looms with ease! SUBSCRIBE: / vertexeffectsinc
🔽Buy our Pedals/Pedalboard Materials🔽
Zip Ties: www.therigdr.c...
Tie-down Mounts: www.therigdr.c...
Velcro: www.therigdr.c...
Pedalboard Patch Cables: www.therigdr.c...
Instrument Cables: www.therigdr.c...
Pedalboards: www.vertexeffe...
VERTEX Pedals: vertexeffects....
⬇ DIY BUFFER INTERFACE DIAGRAMS, TEMPLATES, & MATERIALS ⬇
Mono - vertexeffects....
Mono w/Tuner Out - vertexeffects....
Mono w/Splitter - www.vertexeffe...
Mono w/Audition Loop - vertexeffects....
4 Cable Method (FX Loop) - vertexeffects....
Wet/Dry - vertexeffects....
Stereo - vertexeffects....
🔻 //rig consulting//🔻
PRIVATE: www.therigdr.c...
GROUP: www.therigdr.c...
🔈 //podcast//🔈
Apple: apple.co/36dSQzK
Spotify: spoti.fi/2WGLku8
⬇ RECOMMENDED MATERIALS ⬇
//buffers//
Vertex DIY Buffers - vertexeffects....
Mesa Boogie High-Wire (dual buffer) - bit.ly/2lZwS0s
TC Bonafide Buffer (x2 input + output) - amzn.to/2vrTSug
Truetone Buffer (x2 input + output) - amzn.to/2NLDA8l
//power supply//
CIOKS 7 - amzn.to/3d4qOty
CIOKS 8 - amzn.to/2zW5YOn
CIOKS 4 - amzn.to/33jWAOZ
Strymon Zuma - amzn.to/3dpZANe
Strymon Zuma R300 - amzn.to/2ZgLclt
Truetone CS6 - amzn.to/2wWLbII
Truetone CS7 - amzn.to/2x1Nf2k
Truetone CS12 - amzn.to/33rfLq3
Voodoo Lab Pedal Power 3 - amzn.to/3asqK6r
IEC Plug Covers - bit.ly/34fpGl3
//dc power cables//
2.1mm DC Power Plugs (right angle) - bit.ly/2pGqXzI
2.1mm DC Power Plugs (straight) - bit.ly/36wd1sA
Bulk Power Cables (pre made) - amzn.to/3ev1q0t
//midi//
MIDI Plugs (right angle) - bit.ly/2oKHDFG
MIDI Plugs (straight) - bit.ly/32fNNLF
MIDI Cable (bulk) - amzn.to/2tPAHWQ
//velcro//
Vertex Super Lock - www.therigdr.c...
//cable management//
Zip Ties - www.therigdr.c...
Tie Down Mounts - www.therigdr.c...
Tone Essentials Kit - www.therigdr.c...
//pedalboard tools//
Soldering Iron - amzn.to/2TTdMI4
Solder (60/40) - amzn.to/2U7XhsD
Solder Dispenser - amzn.to/2GpgMpR
Octopus Arms - amzn.to/2V3O8OD
Wire Strippers (30-20 AWG) - amzn.to/2BBMI6n
Wire Strippers (20-10 AWG) - amzn.to/2EbhBR3
Wire Snips - amzn.to/2EazwqU
Vise - amzn.to/2E9eTLO
Heat Gun (embossing gun) - amzn.to/2BwGdlm
Label Maker - amzn.to/2BCBcHU
Label Maker Tape (black) - amzn.to/2Cd3CZe
Label Maker Tape (clear) - amzn.to/34piDD4
Deoxit D5 Contact Cleaner - amzn.to/2GEm4gu
Truetone Milliamp (mA) Reader - amzn.to/2F9v3VN
Tone Brush - amzn.to/2HIfze3
Upholstery Crow Bar - amzn.to/2HIOU0K
Multimeter - amzn.to/2YW9BdE
Goo Gone - amzn.to/31rGJeS
👇 // diy diagrams // 👇
DIY Power Cables: vertexeffects....
DIY Interface: vertexeffects....
DIY Buffers: vertexeffects....
// contributors //
Hunter Harrison - Mixing, Audio Editing
Mason Marangella - Co-Producing
Mason Mejia - Co-Producing, Editing
Victor San Pedro - Editing
Nico Sotomayor - Videographer
#CableManagement #PedalboardPorn #PedalboardTips
FINALLY a vid dedicated to clean cables! Cable management is what separates the pros from the bros, thanks for the help!
👍👍👍
I love the fact that you take the time to answer most every comment. Be they negative or positive. Oh and the content is great too. Thanks for what you do!
sure thing! Thanks for watching!
I tear up and rebuild my boards about once a month. They all look like hell. Kinda like the munched and crunched post-car-wreck Civic smoking down the freeway. I'm always blown away by your work Mason!
This is great I’m building a board soon, I did my Volume Pedal Mod off of your vid and it’s Amazing u da man!!
I'm so glad! Hope you dig it!!!
Hey Mason do you have a video explaining how to route patch cables underneath a pedal?
I got some that are on the top row and since my powerbank is underneath the board I need to loop the patch cable around the board which looks untidy. Is it just a matter of gluing some material so that the pedals are elevated so the cables can fit underneath? I'm aiming for a no cable look.
Thanks for adding value to my day.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Proper cable management makes a pedalboard easy to troubleshoot and easy on the eyes. Today, I'm showing you how to route your cables like the pros, so you can get beautiful photo-worthy cable looms with ease! Please tell us any of your best practices for cable routing or any questions you have about this video! BUY Vertex Zip Ties, Tie Mounts, Velcro: www.therigdr.com/products/tone-essentials-kit
Great video man!
@@bryanabelbassist Thanks for watching!
Are you zip tying the cables to each other?
If so, doesn’t this make it more difficult to replace one?
Dude, you're a perfectionist! Me too )))) Thank you so much
Thanks for watching!!!
Very helpful video. It looks like you made your own patch cables of the perfect length in some of these clips. Do you have a video on how to do that?
ruclips.net/video/YDowhQxmN88/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/Z88EXSn9QY8/видео.html
I was just looking these up :)
We have many patch cable tutorials and all of our rig build videos showcase this as well :)
Thank you both for your responses! Very helpful.
Can you recommend a cable tiedown/clip with built-in release like ones found at a hardware store, so we don't need to mess with clipping and reattaching a dozen zip ties to swap a cable or pedal?
There are some that I use from Amazon that are like a C shape. The ends of the C come together at an adjustable depth and you can pull up on a notch to open the cable holder back up again. Only issue is the sticky feet that leave gunk.
I don't have a tested solution since I wouldn't use these on a rig. The zip tie thing won't loose tention over time, i've found the clip ones are not particularly robust if you're detaching/reattaching them regularly.
I use these velcro things made for sewing. Basically a velcro strip with hook on one side and loop on the back and cut it into thin strips
@@Sharkbate211 if it works, use it!
Adam, search for “VTECHOLOGY Cable Zip Ties, 8 Inch Heavy Duty Releasable Cable Ties” on Amazon, that’s what I bought for my pedalboard (100-pack for $6). The head is a little bit on the bigger side, but it works for me :)
Im a pro rig builder and i DO want you to know this. And def no secret.
Sweet! Glad you're aligned :)
Would you say it's important to keep power cables as short as possible, as when dealing with audio cables?
For DC, no...doesn't matter.
Mason, I have an old Roland Phase II, AP-2 that takes TWO 9-volts. What would you recommend as a DC input. I’m assuming I’d have to drill a hole, but that’s about as far as I know. I’ve tried using adapters to connect to the power supply, but that does not seem to be working, so back 2 9-volts.
You could take the battery leads and re-terminate them as their own DC jacks and clip off the battery clip. OR you could get those pigtails from Voodoo Lab that allow you to clip to a battery clip inside the pedal and bring it out the main power supply. You'd have to drill it either way. Ideally put a grommet or something in the hole you drill do you don't cut up the cable rubbing against the drilled hole.
Awesome vid as always.
Thanks for watching
Hi Rig Doctor Happy Memorial Day. My question is how do you take an ISP THETA PRO and 10 pedals and wire the THETA PRO to act as a pedal switcher as well as the direct box that it is made to be please thank you 🙏
Does it have loops to wire in external pedals? Does it have MIDI?
@@VertexEffectsInc Good Morning, yes it has midi. Thank you for your reply Doctor
I noticed that you are endorsing the PowerGrip Pedal fastener already, does that mean you changed from Dual Lock to PowerGrip? is Power Grip better than Dual Lock?
I preferred because it only requires one density in order to get the same fastening power as it would require for two different densities of 3M Dual Lock. Traditionally, I’d use SJ3550 mated to SJ3551. With Power Grip it’s stronger and you can mate it to itself. Makes it so I just stock one part number. Also the adhesive doesn’t leave residue.
Did you know that what you do is inspiring? I am charging up with ideas
Wow! Thanks!
I started with a Yamaha workstation then the GAS exploded in my brain causing me to grow my collection of synths, pedals and keyboards to a point where my cable situation has become a birds nest of cables. Every time I look at it I tell myself ‘I will get around to organising that’. Thanks for the tips.
Who down votes this? It's awesome. Another great video.
Beats me...some pedal hate good tone.
Haters, that's who. smh
Haven’t looked too hard yet, but still having trouble finding a DC power cable that will go from the one 1 Spot to my boss chorus CE-2. I remember having trouble even finding a wall wart one. So, still gotta plug my boss chorus, straight into the wall.
The mxr iso brick m238 has two plugs that have adjustable voltage control so you can dial in the 12 volts that the ce-2 requires.
Yeah, turns out my one spot did too. I don’t know what I was thinking. I was just using the extra power port on my BOSS TU-2 to power the chorus. But I’ve switched things around now, and just clicked the one stop switch to 12 V for the chorus. Thanks man! 🤘🏻🔥🎸🇺🇸
I used to be addicted to zip ties.... Not anymore, I use velcro. Much safer and the hangovers don't last as long.
Velcro for life!!
They're both really hard to digest.
what size of tie down mount do you use in this video??hope you answer my Question Sir..
I can't remember if it was .75 or 1.5 inches. Sometime I'll use both on the same board depending on the size of the cable loom.
I have over 40+ pedals...I love them all and hate them all because they always sound awesome until I put them together!😂 ...I think I'll sell half and get a 2 Rock amp 😂
Sounds like a lot of pedals!
20 tie down mounts for $15 plus shipping at the rig dr? I went with the same mount but got 100 with ties included for $10 and free shipping from Amazon.
The presumption you're making is that any zip tie and tie down mount is the same. There is different test strengths for the the zip ties, typically 4" aren't much over 10 lbs, maybe 20, but the ones on Amazon aren't the same standard as the ones you'd get from Hellermann-Tyton that are marine-grade. Same with the tie down mounts, also marine-grade. The versions we spec are specifically because we've tried them all and these are the ones that last, that won't lift off with humidity or liquid being spilled on them. I can't provide free shipping...sorry, not enough margin in these to do this and we're not Amazon. If you want the same stuff we use, you can buy it on our site - if you want the Amazon stuff, it's cheaper, but not the same quality. There's no regulation on the Amazon stuff and most of it wont' be use in the same conditions as a pedalboard so to many consumers the quality difference would go unnoticed and they can't tell that the 3M adhesive is not really from 3M, just stamped as such in the factory it's made in overseas.
@@VertexEffectsInc Fair enough, but I just want some thingies to tie up my cables, I'm certain I don't need marine grade and test strengths aren't important to me. And if anything gets so moist that the adhesive fails that's my canary in the coal mine. I appreciate the reply.
@@thomaskendrick6766 the point of having it on the site is if people want what we use, they can get it. We've vetted the right stuff, if that makes sense, great, if not - Uncle Jeff will gladly accept your zip tie money over at Amazon.
Thanks to this videos I managed to solder and do cable management like a pro on my pedalboard, valuable stuff!
Amazing! Great job!
Great info as always. My big & obvious message to anyone building their 1st rig = make sure, are all pedals, cables & connections Work-Perfectly, before committing to Dual-lock and cable management or permanent tie-down. I learned this - the hard way.
Thanks for sharing that Michael! Thanks for watching!
Lol same
@@VertexEffectsInc Loving the Chairmen of the Board episodes. Can't get enough. Great information presented.
Videos like this make my OCD happy...
Mine too!!!!
I wish you were my OCD friend that would clean up my pedalboard for me🤣🤣
Hahahahha
You probably got Fulltone
Space management isn’t just for Space Force.
hahahaha
velcro tie downs exist... don't use zip ties
3m dual lock...... hands down best ever
1:20 ironically, your use of the word "misnomer" is a misnomer 😂😂😂
😘
One year prior to this, you said that the power cables and audio cables DO have sonic interference. Sooooo, which is it?
Are you sure I wasn’t taking about AC and not DC? For AC this would be true.
I watched the whole video, but maybe I missed it...can someone please clarify what "THIS SECRET" was? I mean, the one that other "PRO RIG BUILDERS DON'T WANT US TO KNOW"?
Surely it wasn't merely blue painter's tape, right?
I guess it remains a mystery still...
The secret is preparation
@@VertexEffectsInc lol
👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
The OMILION Technique!!!!
As a guitar tech, I've found that staggering the top row of pedals compared to the bottom row helps insure the artist is less likely to hit a switch on a bottom pedal when hitting the switch on a pedal on the top row. This isn't always possible to do with some pedals and pedal board dimensions, but it's a good rule to start with when building a new board.
thanks to you i made a good pedalboard myself DIY. A hug from italy
Amazing! Thanks for watching Luca!
My favorite thing is building my board, plugging in and everything works perfectly, taking my board to jam and 2 or 3 pedals make noise or have a bunch of tone suck. FML
There should be no stress on your connectors. Embrace the relief loop aesthetic.
Great vid man! You should make a "review your pedalboard" series. I would love to see some tricks and tips on the pedalboards of viewers as myself. Something like once a month or so would be a nice change :D
That would be fun! Good idea!
I used 3m dual lock to cover the top of my PT Classic Pro and actually attached my cable tie down mounts to small squares of dual lock essentially creating a sandwich so that my cable management mounts are modular. I’m constantly changing my board around and found this to be a time saver if your support line changes due to different sized pedals. Always good advice here, thank you for the tips.
Thanks for watching!
You know wut... I wish Morningstar would come out with a 10 loop version of the ML5 that could rearrange the order of loops. That would make doing something like this more practical/permanent. 5 loops just isn’t enough and all the other pedal switchers are way too bulky
You could get two and use the MIDI thru to control the second one.
@@VertexEffectsInc that very light bulb has been flickering for a while now. only problem is I can't change the order still unless I put a order switcher between both ML5's. I have faith in the pedal gods that Morningstar or another awesome brand will make it happen. The ML10
@@dougleydorite what about just getting another device that does it already, like the RJM?
@@VertexEffectsInc I’ll have to revisit them to see if they have anything new and more compact
I'd love to see a routing/wiring setup for synthesizers. All the midi, audio and power cable, spaghetti is driving me nuts.
When I'm not gigging, I change my rig every couple of days. So I'm not zip-tying anything. lol.
Bless your heart!
@@VertexEffectsInc is there a video showing how to do this on a pedaltrain style board?
My suggestion would be to purchase velcro cable ties, snip off the end with the hole that wraps around the cable, and run them through the cable tie mounts. Leave enough length to provide a lot of contact area for the velcro, how much depends on how many cables are in the run. This is the method I use on boards that will see constant modification.
The main issue I’m having regarding arranging my pedals is keeping them in order according to how they will function best and having specific pedals on the front row that want to keep accessible while keeping my “always on” pedals on the back row where they’re out of the way; unfortunately this seems to make for crazy cable routing.
I’m trying to grasp using junction box interfaces which is new to me. Thanks for your videos. I’m hoping this makes finding solutions to these issues more understandable for me.
Thanks for watching! Let us know if we can assist!
A loop switching pedal. There are cheap and expensive options.
Awesome! Thanks for sharing this. Any chance to see this done on a slanted board with the the power supply mounted underneath?
Same technique, you'd actually already have rails set up for you to follow that are straight so the painter's tape might not matter.
I’ve been one of those requesting this video. You’ve made an obsessive very happy. Thank you!
🙏🙏🙏
This is why I use either a multifx or modeling SW like TH-U. No time, no mess and infinitely customizable in an instant. Have fun playing with your cables, I'm getting back to playing guitar 🎸 😂
What you save in time, you loose in tone :)
Ok apart from being amazingly beautifull and somone could even say inspiring to have a nit pedalboard to play with, I would say that for up to 8-9 pedals troubleshooting would not get easier if I had locked all the cables in place . It might be easier to identify the problem but to unmake everything and recconect it as dumd as it may sound it would be easier to just take off a cable (power or jack) and just put another without having to worry where does it tie down what was the path of the previous cable and do I have to unscrew or pop off something just to put it back in place etc. So in conclusion for smaller boards if you just know where your patches and power cables connect to its the same if not easier to troubleshoot and replace them. (talking about a live situation mostly where you need to be quick) Consider leaving them as "free" as possible (try to maybe tidy up a bit and make sure they re not in range of random hits/spilling drinks and accidents).
How about cutting your DC cables?...like if they are too long,do you cut them to length and resolder them together??Typically,that’s where my board gets messy,with the extra DC power cables maybe being too long,and I end up with a lot of excess....
Sure, do it, I have a few tutorials on how to do that if you look through our catalogue and I have diagrams for all the different types of cables including current and voltage doublers.
Little Velcro strips, at least in the assembly stage, can be useful when bundling the cables, and predicting how the cables will look. Great tutorial, nonetheless.
Also, not related to the topic, and updates on the Boost? The reason I ask is because Xotic came out with their volume pedals, and possibly other companies have released volume pedals recently.
Very soon! Stay tuned!
Awesome- I'm starting a flat board build soon and these are just the kinds of tips I need!
I'm likely gonna have to jury-rig one or more risers for the second row of my board, and have power supplies & some audio routing underneath. We've seen examples of that in your builds, but I'm wondering if you'll do (or have done!) a dedicated video on that?
A dedicated video on adding a tier to a pedalboard? Check out Rhett Shull's rig build or what we did for Anthony Best or even Erick Walls...we added a tiered second row to a flat board.
If you don't have enough space for larger mounts, you can put cable tie-down mounts using the "Omilion Technique" but tie the power cables on the even mounts and the audio cables on the odds.
Also, if my power supply is underneath, why not run my power cables under the board and my audio cables on top?
Those were pretty small 1.25” mounts. 😝
I like to roll those zip ties so that the sharp edge is facing down against the board-once they are cut.
But looks good. I much rather use a Pedaltrain type of board, where all the cabling and powers adapters are underneath! 🤘🏻😝🎸🇺🇸
I like to use flush cutters so that there is no exposed sharp end.
I watched this specifically for that purpose but I have a dozen pedals on my board. This oughtta get interesting lol
SO many great ideas, thank you! I'll be using many of these concepts on my next build.
Amazing! Thanks for watching!
Yes, but what if the top of my board is velcro?
Hey Mason! Do you think that I could use 1 trs input to be the mono in and mono out of my board?
Sure, that's what most inserts are
Damn you, Mason. I just re-wired my board last weekend and this would have been helpful THEN, NOT YESTERDAY! That said, mine looks really neat and tidy anyway, and maybe just shy of the professionalism here.
Ahhhh dang! Sorry! I'm sure it still looks great!
As always uncle mason awesome 😎 video I’ve learned a lot about pedalboard solder cables and more thanks a lot for sharing your knowledge and your time 👍🏿👍🏿👍🏿💯
Thanks for watching!
Mason, Good Day! How do you prioritize your pedal locations on the pedal board? Is it signal path or geography on the board? IOWs- if fit was an issue, would you put a pedal farther out of the signal path (& use a longer cable to reach it) to fit on the board? OR set up the board in signal path order and deal with the fit problems?
Usually signal path is the priority but sometimes there is a specific placement someone prefers that defies the signal path.
Haha. I would never think on my own to use nearly that many tie down mounts, but it does look nice. I hope you left some for the rest of us, though ;-).
You can use fewer as explained in the video, depends on how set the rig is.
lol. hum, but with shipping shortage now, who knows?
How is cutting 20 expensive zipties to get to the cable to put on the bottom and cant even see more easy to troubleshoot?
Two things:
1. buy cheap zip-ties (expensive ones are no better)
2. always make sure everything is working before you tie it down
If you're not always changing things on your pedalboard, having all the wiring secured will prevent you from having to troubleshoot anything because it's much less likely to fail. I mean how is putting your pedal curcuit boards in a metal box fastened with screws meant to make trouble shooting easier - it's not. It's meant to protect it so it doesn't need troubleshoooting.
I was always on the same side you're on. It really is a preventative thing. Less likely to get stuff hooked onto lets say, a flight case lock as you move stuff which makes damage to be far less likely. When you gotta move stuff around alot, then chances are, stuff is getting a little beat up anyway.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and expertise. I have a question about troubleshooting a rig. When I use a certain bass and run through my 19 pedal-board with 2 buffers and every pedal bypassed, I sometimes clip my amp pre. But when I plug straight into the amp with the same bass it never clips. The bass is passive, the buffers are TC Elec. Bonafide. Could the buffers be beefing my signal too much? The pickups are quite hot as is.
Aaron, it might be something else on the rig doing this. Have you tried, Bass - TC - Amp and seeing if you take them off the board to test if the buffer is doing this. A buffer is always unity gain by definition.
Easily remove that cable by cutting 41 zip ties. I get it tho. As an electrician I expect every inch of any wire I install to look like artwork.
Depends on what you want, you can skip every other tie mount if you want fewer fastiners.
Would love to see a video on mounting pedals in a rack shelf/drawer. Thanks.
Thanks for the idea!
Great vid, Mason. In other builds you've spoken about not running power and audio side by side, rather crossing as infrequently as possible at right angles. Have I misinterpreted or do you not feel this is that significant anymore? Thx!
This is only with relationship to AC power, DC won't matter.
Man I'd love to have such a clean pedal board, but I'm always messing around with the pedal order and moving them from fx loop to front of amp. My pedal board i's a mess but it's fluid
You could make some of your cables longer so you can loop them around each input and output.
Thank you ever so much for this great video! I've been looking for this for a really, reeeeaaally long time! Thank you!
Our pleasure! Hope you enjoyed it
Thank you for the vid!!! It looked to me that when you routed the dc back to the supply from the farthest pedal, you zip tied it the entire way. So what do you do when you route for the next pedal and add another cable to the run? Do you clip the zips from the second pedal and then add then rezip the back to the supply? My biggest issue has been keeping things organized as I add pedals to a run.
You'd clip the zip tie where you were adding a cable, but in the video I didn't apply zip ties until a cable was added into the loom or row of cable leads. So tie down mounts go down first, then bring the cables as you got and zip tie them as you go, adding each additional cable to the wire loom.
Mason, finally got all my parts and supplies to build my Temple Audio Duo 24 board. I appreciate all the past help and suggestions, from solder to cables. My next question is: do you have a preference on whether to run your patch cables under or on top of the board? (My power supply will be mounted underneath and the power cables will run underneath as well).
Thanks again.
For our style rigs we put them all on top so we can trouble shoot more easily. That's normally a best practice among rig builders.
@@VertexEffectsInc Thanks so much! That’s exactly what I was hoping for. Makes a lot of sense as well.
@@jojo9535 great!
WHO’s song is that? The intimate friends/unbreakable cover at the beginning of the video?? I need that!!!!
Thats from Tim Marco
why not just use one of the many pedalboard designs that lets the power and audio cables go under the board?
It's not an ideal way to design a pro level rig. Also trouble shooting is much more complicated on those types of rigs.
Thanks Mason, this is very helpful to me as I'm going to rebuild my board very soon.
I'm so glad!!!
beautifully done. My best practice for pedal board management is i just don't have one (crying internally). Would be cool if you ever get an acoustic board to show some DI options and routing.
good idea! We need to do one of these!
This is an amazing technique. I swap out a pedal now and then, so I like the 3M mounted cable secure tab that opens and closes.
Perfect! And we sell all this stuff on the Rig Doc website if you want what we use www.therigdr.com
Nice tutorial Mason. One question, do you ever have signal issues running the audio cables next to or on top of the DC cables? I’ve read and been told in the past not to run signal wires parallel and next to power line. Essentially make a separate run and to only cross perpendicularly.
As stated in the video, if it's DC it doesn't matter. If it's AC then you'll have an issue. People that are saying that either don't understand or mean AC lines, not DC.
i see u have a link to the plugs u use for ur dc power but what cable are u using for ur dc power?
We use the provided cables with the power supplies and shorten them to length. You don't need a "Mogami" or something like that for DC power, the properties of the cables and things like capacitance aren't a factor for the low current/voltage DC power.
I was literally hoping you would make a video about this last night! Thanks so much for sharing the knowledge 🤘
Our pleasure!
Second time watching this. I built a 20u rack on sunday and got two pull out shelves to rack my pedals so i can connect them to a voodoo lab gcx switcher. I want to make it look super clean like yours but its a little overwhelming. I need a lot more cable to give the racks enough clearance when extended outwards. I'll likely add a 2nd gcx so trying to plan for that as well.
D*** Mason, that's one beautifully clean looking board!
Do you recommend the 3/4" tie downs over the 1" for the power supply cables?
Thanks in advance.
Great tips Mason! I'm trying to clean up my rig the best I can but I have a pedal board that has to connect to different channels on a mixer where I have my mic. I play solo bouzouki and sing. Pedal board has a looper on it as well that goes into the mixer. I end up running about nine cables from the pedal board to the mixer so I can separate things for a better mix. Kind of a hassle to setup every time. If I put the mixer on the pedal board it becomes huge. I also thought of having a multipin snake that plugs into the pedal board and the mixer case. Sorry for the long post but wondered if you ever put together a rig with this situation. Could be a cool video! Thanks again!
Never anything with an on-board mixer. I would still treat the mixer like the "amp" in this case.
@@VertexEffectsInc Thanks!
This dude doesn't know what the word "misnomer" means....
Thanks for this. The place where mine gets messy is the cables going to the power supply. They’re so long. I can’t figure a way to shorten them.
We have a video on how to DIY your own power cables using the existing power cables. You should check it out!
If you use 3M dual lock for your board (looking at all the other players out there that are constantly swapping things around), you can use short thin strips (mine are rouglhly 1.5"x.25") to pin cables down anywhere they cross the dual lock. Way faster than zip ties, only slightly less secure. You can also tuck away excess cable length using this method - great if you aren't cutting everything to size or want to make a temporary swap using an off-the-shelf patch cable.
Generally if you create cable "channels" and leave room for a few different effect sizes, you can maintain clean lines and swap out pedals easily instead of having to compromise. Of course if you're changing order, placement, and orientation of the board you're probably not optimized for this sort of "neat" set up anyway - I'd just stick with a organization system you can live with whatever it may be.
@@VertexEffectsInc That's a good point. This is definitely a compromise that works for me because I only have to clean up my rig for a handful of gigs per year. (And when my roommates start complaining about the mess of cables in the corner of the living room...)
Can you make a video with tips like these but for a more modular pedalboard?
You would ideally loop around your power cables and leave more slack, there are too many variables if this is what you'll ultimately be doing to really show a good solution.
Great info man! Thanks, regards from Argentina.
Im pretty fiscally challenged so I always use all velcro boards and i put my tie down mounts on a long strip as well, it allows everything to be easily reversable in the event i end up needing to redesign.
That's another way to do it!
Excellent tip!
Awesome video! What extra tips would you give for under the board cable management?
Same tips can be used in terms of the clean lines. I generally don't do this for trouble shooting reasons and exposure of the cable.
@@VertexEffectsInc thanks a lot, I’m re-doing my pedalboard and all these tips really help.
Only thing I use is a tuner and a looper.
Sweet!
I wonder if this can be done on my Pedaltrain Nano, I have a couple of very tall pedals... Will try it next week together with dual lock.
The great home designer Christopher Lowell always referred to tape as "a ruler on a roll!" Uncle Mason, your advice is absolutely invaluable!! Makes me wish I was building a board for something, but I digress... What is your feeling about wiping surfaces with alcohol prior to affixing self-stick components? Do you feel it helps adhesion? I've found that applying a little heat helps when applying Velcro. Your thoughts?
Thanks for that! Glad you dig the content. That's a good idea regarding cleaning the surfaces, absolutely a good idea!
One of the biggest threats to my time and resources could be buying every well marketed quality pedal that crosses my path. "My momma told me, Ya beetta shop around" with the 'less is more' concept leading the way.
How about when you have a tier pedalboard. Like connecting the pedals on the tier with the pedals on the bottom.
Same technique, on our rigs I do the same thing and use the bottom of the tier to route the cables in the same fashion. You can check out a few of our recent builds to see this in action.
Hey Mason, what is your pedal riser solution in this video?
No sure what you mean...there isn't a riser on this board.
can you do a similar video but with a switcher like the es-5? I think its so difficult to do it neatly if you have pedals with ports on the side and some on top. Love your video, love vertex products.
Ok Mason, I have a question that I’ve not heard mentioned much, if at all.
What do you recommend for cables to go from your pedalboard to your amps?
Good pre-made 15-20’ guitar cables? (I use two/two amps)
Or the same cable that you use between pedals?
Great channel!
Ideally low capacitance and flexible. I like Mogami 2524, Belden 9778, and a few others, but if you've got a good buffer on the output it really doesn't matter too much compared to the input cable. The cables on the board should be smaller and flexible like the 2319 or 2314 and not as robust as the instrument cables.
Great video and advice. I would like to say don't use poor quality cable ties and don't be too ham fisted and over tighten them, to the point where they compress or cut into your loom wiring. This might just save you a wiring issue fault later on. Leave some flex in your bends and try to keep nice bend radius which won't stress/pull the connections or cable.
Thanks for watching!!!
Actually the yarn ball issue can prove very problematic when you have a powered TRS instrument cable for your guitar with active electronics, if the powered section of instrument cable is looped at least once (to form an antenna) and merely draped over nonpowered instrument cable you can induce hum/RF into the non-powered cables.
Had this issue with my Variax power supply, one day had some nasty num and after switching around many cables, pedals, and power cords I narrowed it down to my XPS power supply for my Variax or its instrument cable - it was just because I was storing that cable looped up on my pedal board, even after I plugged into my guitar there was always 1 small loop just chilling on my pedals. Avoid that and you're problem-free lol
Just play normal shit and you won’t have that problem. J/k.
Mason
What is your connector cable labeling standard? Do you label both ends, the straight and pancake?🤷🏼♂️
IN , OUT, SND, RTN, Using a mobius pedal; MB SND, MB IN…. Etc
Thanks for the help!
For switchers I label both sides, if it's just a serial board I generally don't label.
I've always followed Kimmo Aroluoma method with the safety clips instead of zipties. Keep it all tight and clipped down so nothing can come unplugged even when my board gets thrown around, but easy to swap out and add pedals.
You can go that direction, you'll have some limitations however on the size of the loom, and a zip tie isn't that hard to cut and replace if needed.
ive asked all the pro rig builders. they could care less if we know
Glad they are in alignment :). Ironically, few of them, if any, will post about their techniques and strategies to how to build pedalboards step-by-step as though it was something they needed to protect from the public as though it would undermine their business.
Used this video to help get my board built and tidied up underneath.
Thanks alot from Morocco for your advises to make my dream pedalboard .
Glad to hear that!