Our pedalboards require certain things to do their jobs efficiently. Today, I'm taking you through five easy ways you can get your pedalboard in tip top shape, both sonically and structurally. See all my product recommendations below: //power supplies// Truetone CS6 - amzn.to/2wWLbII Truetone CS7 - amzn.to/2x1Nf2k Truetone CS12 - amzn.to/33rfLq3 MXR ISO Brick - amzn.to/3fPBezj MXR ISO Brick Mini - amzn.to/37lFQZV //patch cables// Vertex Patch Cables - reverb.com/shop/the-rig-doctor-cable-outlet EBS Ribbon Patch Cables - amzn.to/2JyWDQU Ernie Ball Ribbon Patch Cables - amzn.to/3mppbLv MXR Patch Cables - amzn.to/3qfJ7CY //buffers// Vertex (DIY) Buffer - vertexeffects.com/diy-buffer TC Bonafide Buffer - amzn.to/39qRnKg Truetone Pure Tone Buffer - amzn.to/39tWVDN //velcro// 3M Dual Lock SJ3550 (for pedal) - amzn.to/2TP1rlu 3M Dual Lock SJ3551 (for base) - amzn.to/2I8a7SG Power Grip Mounting Tape - amzn.to/3lnGPhs //contact cleaner// Deoxit D5 Contact Cleaner - amzn.to/2GEm4gu
Wrong thread but im curious about best option for 'cut to length power chords' running from isolated power to all pedals Ugliest part of my board, power cables coiled and tucked
If you're using velcro, use painter's tape on the bottom of your pedal before applying a blow dryer to the velcro and then applying it to the tape and not the metal/plastic directly. Will save your pedals' value and appearance over time.
I started playing guitar at 10 years old. Played a LOT until age 27. Then lost enthusiasm when all my guitars were stolen. Occasionally strummed a bit over the years after that, Wife had a guitar but never played. I'm now 64 years old. Bought a guitar a couple of weeks ago. I still know the chords, but don't remember how to play any songs. No calluses, arthritic fingers. Picking up a few songs, I now remember a progression of chords I used as exercise. Also have built my first pedal board. These videos help.
It blows my mind that the majority of people are still using traditional Velcro. Switched to dual lock 15 years ago and never looked back. It’s super strong so you don’t need much, just a small tab in each corner of the pedal. I can actually grab a given pedal on my board and lift the board with it. It’s that strong. Pedals can still be easily lifted off the board by sliding a small screwdriver under the pedal and prying upward.
It’s overkill. Velcro looks better. Never had a problem with Velcro. If I’m building a pedalboard on my ceiling I’ll buy some otherwise it’s the most unnecessary “improvement” to a pedalboard which just makes it ugly and incompatible.
blows my mind is a bit of an overstatement. i dont gig so i dont need to worry about pedals falling off and effers stealing pedals. p-boards get dirty and velcro can be vacuumed easily (if one is smart and has taped the soft side on the board). dust and hair/fur and grime do not vacuum easily off dual lock 🤢. i agree with the CS series and EB ribbon cables though--both are excellent, affordable prods.
I usually don’t comment videos on YT but your channel is such a useful source of information. I’ve been upgrading my rig for almost 15 years and still learning new things so thank you very much and keep up the good work !
This is by far the BEST video on pedalboards out there. I've watched several videos before I started building my own wooden board covered in musou black, and I came back specifically to write this comment. Of all videos, the five tips of this one were golden. For each tip, I'd like to share my experiences and choices based on what is available in Europe. I am NOT advertising for any of these products. 1. After considering the selection criteria, I went for the Palmer PWT 12 Mk 2. 2. I'm a sucker for braided patch cables, so I always have been using HQ ones. But I'm grateful to have learnt of Mogami. 3. I got convinced I need a buffer and opted for a Car Martin Buff DeLuxe. 4. I got a roll of 3M Dual Lock SJ 3550 (4 m x 5 cm / 15' x 2" / 2 sq. m / 310 sq. in.). If you find the right supplier, it's only slightly more expensive than when you buy 3 rolls of Velcro to get the same surface area. 5. I bought a can of DeoxIT D5; a reseller on Amazon offers it in Europe. Additional tips for DIY: 6. If you build your own board, you'll want to use adjustable levelling feet. 7. To make sure cables don't touch the ground, affix them to the bottom of the board using cable clips or cable holders.
Something I found using EBS vs. those pancake plug patch cables is the latter can have impractically large heads for some applications: you physically can’t plug two of them in next to each other in a lot of switchers, for instance. EBS plugs are a lot smaller and save a lot of headaches of that sort.
I think I got the last Mesa Boogie Buffer in the world. I had to order it from Japan When I tell you I scoured the Earth....I looked all the way to all the other major countries. Yes Europe, Australia, and North America are sold out. Crazy to think I had to go that far to get one. But Mason recommended it! lol Thanks man, sorry to all other guitarist looking for one. You'll have to wait til MB puts them out again.
I recently discovered your channel and I have to say I'm really enjoying some of your videos! I love how unpretentious you are in your recommendations. Like, "here's a good option, but here's a cheaper option that's just as good." Or just straight up saying we don't need A, B, or C. Nice work!
I bought some random patch cables from GC and I was thinking I may need to buy the ones this guy is telling us about. Turns out those were the exact cables i bought😂
Hope nobody’s offended if I ask for an European contact Spray recommendation D5 is 32€ + shipping in Germany… Been a Neutrik nerd for 17 years straight, pardon the humor… Only patch cables may have Hicons. Subbed and really appreciate your content!
The D5 is worth it and for most recreational players will last years. Neutrik is great for instrument cables but not ideal for a pedalboard. I think Hicon is made in China now so is tick stick with SquarePlugs.
@@VertexEffectsInc ty for the quick response. I didn’t have any issues with the hicons on some Sommer cables, but once I need new patch cables, I’ll try square plugs!
PRF sprays are just as good, 6-68 is a good dry cleaner for jacks and connectors, 7-78 is what you want for pots and faders. If you have a really dirty pot, I recommend cleaning it first with 6-68, and finishing it off with 7-78, as the lubricant can otherwise flood the pot.
New subscriber. Not sure how in the hell I haven't seen this channel yet but I'm more than grateful to be here thank you for all of the useful information and be good champ
i like your patch combo for the serviceability. and it just makes sense to me to be able to make custom lengths, and have left over cable i can swap in, on reusable plugs, if i have a problem.
I actually like the bonafide after the drive pedals when they are on, and before them when they are off... so there is some compromise needed and i have to agree that better tone overall for the pedalboard is using a buffer in the beginning of the chain
If you actually are turning on the distortion pedal, I don’t predict there’s going to be much of a benefit for running it after it as opposed to just running one of them dead last in not having an input Buffer at all, presumably if you have any distortion pedal on that’s the low output impedance signal. For most devices over a short run a cable it’s not gonna make much of a difference whether the output impedance is 100 ohms or 1K ohms.
It’s one option, however the output impedance isn’t particularly good, I don’t recall with the input impedances, it might be OK if it’s just controlling your pick up a loading, but I wouldn’t recommend it as a line driver. The other problem is it inverts the polarity, which can be an issue in some rigs.
@@VertexEffectsIncHey Mason I run that pedal at the end of my board, also I have a Soul food 4 pedals in which I think is a buffer. What is your opinion?
@@scottpickett9779 you need a high quality buffer on your input and output of your system as I suggest, no way around that. It needs to have a 1M input impedance and a 100 ohm output impedance if you want to quality it (generally - there are some exceptions). The Klon is a great overdrive (Soul Food), the buffer is awful - TL072 is a terrible IC for this application. Follow my suggestions, you'll get better results.
Great video. Evidence Audio solderless cables are outstanding as well plus really good customer service. Worth to check out if soldering is not your thing.
@@BMitchell no, it's an awful output buffer, a poor at driving long lines and the more capacitance seen on the output the more unstable it gets. You need something that is around 100 ohms output impedance. I'd stick with my recommendations or you can build one of our DIY buffer kits.
Nice, I had an analog chorus who was very picky with the PS, I ended building my own linear supply, I used an unregulated 12V wallwart connected to a box near the pedal board with a LM7809 regulator inside, because it was a wallwart there was no AC near the board. no more hum.
Also, I would really like to understand the purpose of having buffers in the signal chain. Would you be able to give us a really basic explanation of how to use them. Thanks again and congrats on a great channel.
You're right, I use EBS patch cables and they are just very good and a good power supply is also the right thing, Cioks is a good alternative and they are not so pricy at all. I don't use buffers, maybe I must try one.
Real soldered cables are better - but these are superior to a low profile Solderless for sure. You have buffers where you know it or not - any pedal turned on - true bypass or not - is a buffer.
FYI, TrueTone pedals (V2 and V3 series) have the Pure Tone Buffer inside them already. For the V3 series, there is also a dip switch inside to turn it off.
You almost forgot about the Suhr Buffer, that's a great one, too. Although for guitars running a stereo rig, it only applies to the output side, and if you're a bassist like Billy Sheehan that splits the signal from the instrument, but only have one output on the bass, this buffer will be usuable to split the signal for different frequencies.
Didn't forget, it's just not the most budget friendly version, and I'm trying to recommend stuff for beginners and folks just getting their "sea legs" with this stuff. Secondly, it's not in production from what I can see.
I started using neutrik 90° replacement jacks low noise and using cable for microphone and leaving the fourth wire as an anti antenna wire to shut down surrounding noise, sounds crazy but it works? I have a couple spots where I used the mxr Close Quarters 90°, they are nice thanks for your videos you're making a difference ☆.
Questions about the dual lock: 1) Why do you recommend different types for the board (400) and the pedals (250), versus the same for both? Is there an advantage to this mixed setup? Asking because it appears that the 250 is half the price of the 400, so 250 tape on both would be a lot cheaper. 2) Also, your amazon link for the SJ3550/250 stem is pointing to TB3550/250 stem. What’s the difference in the SJ vs. TB types? Thanks!
I always use 250. 400 is ridiculously strong. 400 works well if you want to stick a power brick under your board, or something like that. But for board and pedals, 250 is more than strong enough.
1) it's stronger if you use two different densities. If you want it easier to pull apart I'd just use 250 on both sides. 2) Not sure, they may have changed the link destination. I'll check it out.
Are you aware of any simple test meter that can measure capacitance and impedance for the patch cables to verify their measurements before using on the board?
My board is mounted on diamond plate on top of melamine board I just use crimp on connectors and supply is underneath I even have a couple blue led lighting automotive type. Clean power
Hey Mason..I’ve learnt so much from your RUclips channel..Regarding Velcro, which one do you put on your pedal board and which on you pedal..many thanks 👍 Al from the U.K.
Hi Mason, i saw a MXR/CAE Line Booster for a good price. Can i use it as buffer? If yes, is it before or after. Thanks. Anyways, i already have a Boss TU-3, as a buffer if not engage.
You can, you just have to leave it "ON" for it to be a buffer. The buffer quality of the Tuner is not comparable to the MXR in terms of quality and efficiency. Remember not all buffers are created equally, just like not all overdrives are a Klon.
My new vertex board and S.S will arrive on Monday i just can’t wait. I just have to save a bunch of money to swap my evidence audio cables for something better.
@@hectorherrera7926 SquarePlugs SP400/5000 or SPS4/SPS5 - it depends on the diameter of your cable. Check out Best Tronics website and they have a look up table for the which plugs fit the cable you have.
Hi Vertex Team! Love your videos and congratulations on 100K! 🥳 About the contact cleaner: I'm not in the US so DeoxIT is hard to get and expensive. Is there any other alternative or maybe some facts I should be aware of, when buying a contact cleaner for my PB? :)
If only that MXR M238 power supply had an integrated power supply and took an IEC power cable. I have nightmares of one of those wall wart units going bad.
I'm not sure of the composition of the pedals, should be easy for you to test and see if the sound is changed by way of the buffer. If so, put the buffer after the fuzz. Ordinarily the buffer sounds best after fuzz.
Ok, I am using an 8 outlet power strip, with surge protection, that has the rotating sockets so you can stagger wall warts. Power strip is attached with dual lock under Pedaltrain. Using individual $8 d'Addario 9V 500ma AC/DC switching supplies. I have dual USB plug in chargers for USB to 12v for midi looper, and USB to 18V for OCD. Completely isolated (not like some power supplies that only say they are.) Operates anywhere in the world. Cheap, expandable ( I could run 16 devices if I used USB to 9V adapter cables.) No single point of failure, completely configurable. Half the price, twice the capability.USB power to charge devices on the board, extra outlets to chain other boards or plug amps into. Oh, yeah, no noise. Con? None? Doesn't look cool hidden under the board. Is there a downside to this approach?
If you're not getting noise that's the ultimate litmus test. I alway like testing a rig by putting the entire pedalboard into a true bypass looper and hearing the guitar plugged directly into the amp versus bringing in the board. This way you can ID any tone suck or noise in the system.
@@VertexEffectsInc it did! I've been looking at power supplies for my first pedalboard setup. I'm saving my pennies to get a high-quality supply. Thanks for your recommendations!
Hi Mason, I've got a CS12 but I'm running out of outputs, so I was wondering the following: Could I buy a mini Iso Brick and power it with the 18V output from my CS12? That way I'll have to plug in just one power chord for my entire pedalboard. Would that be possible?
Switchmode power supplies are lighter, cooler, and cheaper than good linear power supplies; but, a good linear is going to be significantly lower in noise than most switchers. The main impediment to using a linear are the size, weight and cost of the heatsinks.
If you're comparing power supplies designed for audio in our field. The switching power supply, in the audio range, as quiet in as the best linear supplies. The high quality versions aren't necessarily cheaper and most of the linear supplies aren't actually toroids. Furthermore you can't just put a linear power supply anywhere you want on a rig, you have limitations and the leakage of the EMF is what you're missing in your analysis. This is a HUGE problem and results in noise in the system even if the outputs themselves are totally isolated and quiet.
SMPSs are noisy compared to linear power supplies; that's why precision electronics are iffy about them. But the noise is usually well above the audio spectrum and therefore inaudible. Cheap digital pedals might throw a fit over a cheap SMPS, but I've never heard of that happening, since any digital circuit or chip worth its salt buffers the power it receives; usually with a linear voltage regulator IC. I don't believe any analog circuitry used in guitar pedals is going to have any trouble with HF noise, so an SMPS is actually a very good option for guitar effects. The main downfall for linear power supplies is that they radiate a lot of noise if they aren't shielded and grounded like they ought to be.
Well, its officially, I have obsession with your videos! Let me ask something, do I need a buffer even in a small pedalboard with max 3-4 (maybe 5 pedals), or the buffer needed when we are talking, for examble, for pedalboards that have 10 pedals or above.
@@VertexEffectsInc I bought the Carl Martin Buff Deluxe buffer. Hope this works fine. Can I ask you something else, if the chain goes like that -> last pedal buffer -> after that a true bypass patchbay -> and then goes to amp, it will work or the buffer must be the last pedal before the amp?
Turn all of your pedals off and strum a couple chords. Now plug the guitar directly into the amp and see if it makes any difference. If it does, you need a buffer.
@@JesseKoroteyev thank you for the reply. I did what you said and didn't notice any difference. But at the end I change my setup and now my setup has as the very last pedal a buffer and not a true bypass switcher. I'm very happy with my sound for the first time in my life, Dr Rig's videos are very very helpful, all you need is to understand what he really meant and what you really want. I didn't like the Carl Martin buffer, sounds like a compressor so I used a custom buffer with specs as close as possible to the specifications he suggests.
I know this video is almost a year old, but I've watched at least 10 other Vertex videos and I have finally decided to build soldered cables instead of the Lava cables I've been using. Can you say SquarePlugs?
Aloha from Hawaii Dr. Mason 🏝🌋 I really appreciate your videos, they are so informative , I am learning a lot and appreciation your recommendations . I would like to build the DIY Mono dual buffer with tuner out .. I realize that the order of effects pedals can vary , can you give me your opinion of my pedals placement, if they are in the correct order sequence : Guitar into a Sonic Research Turbo tuner ST 300 , Gamechanger PLUS sustainer , Wampler ego , Analog man king of tones , Boss D-S1 , Morley little alligator volume Pedal , TC Flashback , TC HOF , Into a fender pro junior . Your help & suggestions would be much appreciated … thanks in advance !
Thanks for the informative videos, your pedal boards look great. Is the Voodoo Labs pedal power 3 plus a reccomend power supply? Thanks Barney J Bernard
Hello uncle Mason! I ve got some questions.. 1. I use the g lab gsc3 controller, which has a built in buffer...should I count on it? 2. I'm kinda in love with the Vertex Boost...if I buy one, will it complete the need for a buffer? I play my boost pedal in the fx loop... 3. Should I go for the truetone or the t.c. buffer, if needed, or save money for the Mesa? Thanks!!!
1) It's okay for an input buffer, I don't think there is an output buffer 2) It is a great boost and buffer but if it's not the last thing in the chain the buffer can't be as effective as a dedicated buffer, and in the loop is not going to help with the front of the amp. 3) Depends on your effects loop, but having an input buffer, output buffer, and a buffer on the return of your FX Loop could be needed, but at least an input and output buffer. The Truetone is a good budget option. I also like the Mesa Boogie High Wire for a great dual buffer in one.
Hey Mason, I have a boss bcb60 pedalboard and it has its own power supply, would you still recommend, for example the truetone and bypass the boss power supply? Super video, thanks for your great work! Nader
Hi Mason. First of all, thank you so much for your videos. I've learned a lot about pedalboards thanks to you! I have question. Should I buy both 3m Dual locks tapes (SJ3550 AND SJ3551)? You rock, great stuff!
Great video. How would you handle buffers when you have a tone bender style circuit at the begging game? Put it after? Also...does a Strymon buffer do that trick at the end? Or would you buffer after the Strymon as well?
Thank you for the nice informative show! Just one question, if I have 4 pedals in the effects loop and 5 pedals in front of the amp, do I have to put 4 buffers? 2 in the effects loop and 2 in the front of the amp? Thank you for sharing!
Pedro, I would say get a dual buffer - if you have a buffered effects loop, you may not need one there - at worst you'd need one on the RETURN only going back to the FX Loop Return from the last pedal in your effects loop.
@@VertexEffectsInc 👍 💯 the Dual Lock is key man! You were the guy to turn me onto it. I actually cover the whole board in 400 and then put 4 little squares of 250 on each pedal. Might be overkill, but at least I don't have to take it off. The 400 dual lock I use is pretty permanent. Near impossible to take off without some serious chemicals.
@@VertexEffectsInc it's the type that has a black rubber-like bottom, and the adhesive is so strong that when you try to remove it, you get the black rubber stuff still there. It was the only reverb seller selling dual lock last I checked. Not sure the upholstery crowbar would do the trick there.
Our pedalboards require certain things to do their jobs efficiently. Today, I'm taking you through five easy ways you can get your pedalboard in tip top shape, both sonically and structurally. See all my product recommendations below:
//power supplies//
Truetone CS6 - amzn.to/2wWLbII
Truetone CS7 - amzn.to/2x1Nf2k
Truetone CS12 - amzn.to/33rfLq3
MXR ISO Brick - amzn.to/3fPBezj
MXR ISO Brick Mini - amzn.to/37lFQZV
//patch cables//
Vertex Patch Cables - reverb.com/shop/the-rig-doctor-cable-outlet
EBS Ribbon Patch Cables - amzn.to/2JyWDQU
Ernie Ball Ribbon Patch Cables - amzn.to/3mppbLv
MXR Patch Cables - amzn.to/3qfJ7CY
//buffers//
Vertex (DIY) Buffer - vertexeffects.com/diy-buffer
TC Bonafide Buffer - amzn.to/39qRnKg
Truetone Pure Tone Buffer - amzn.to/39tWVDN
//velcro//
3M Dual Lock SJ3550 (for pedal) - amzn.to/2TP1rlu
3M Dual Lock SJ3551 (for base) - amzn.to/2I8a7SG
Power Grip Mounting Tape - amzn.to/3lnGPhs
//contact cleaner//
Deoxit D5 Contact Cleaner - amzn.to/2GEm4gu
Deox on the way, sup😹💀🍑😈🍑 seriously tho, clicked and ordered, thanks
Wrong thread but im curious about best option for 'cut to length power chords' running from isolated power to all pedals
Ugliest part of my board, power cables coiled and tucked
🥰🥰🥰
Watch our video on customizing your own DIY power cables, all the information and materials are listed there
@@jessetoews2446 it's the best!
If you're using velcro, use painter's tape on the bottom of your pedal before applying a blow dryer to the velcro and then applying it to the tape and not the metal/plastic directly. Will save your pedals' value and appearance over time.
I started playing guitar at 10 years old. Played a LOT until age 27. Then lost enthusiasm when all my guitars were stolen.
Occasionally strummed a bit over the years after that, Wife had a guitar but never played.
I'm now 64 years old. Bought a guitar a couple of weeks ago. I still know the chords, but don't remember how to play any songs. No calluses, arthritic fingers. Picking up a few songs, I now remember a progression of chords I used as exercise.
Also have built my first pedal board.
These videos help.
It blows my mind that the majority of people are still using traditional Velcro. Switched to dual lock 15 years ago and never looked back. It’s super strong so you don’t need much, just a small tab in each corner of the pedal. I can actually grab a given pedal on my board and lift the board with it. It’s that strong. Pedals can still be easily lifted off the board by sliding a small screwdriver under the pedal and prying upward.
it's the best!
Proved and do its job for how many decades. Using mine for almost 2 decades.
I mean I still use Velcro strips and I can lift my board with my pedals 🤷🏽♂️ kinda a minor part to improve if you know how to actually use it imo..
It’s overkill. Velcro looks better. Never had a problem with Velcro. If I’m building a pedalboard on my ceiling I’ll buy some otherwise it’s the most unnecessary “improvement” to a pedalboard which just makes it ugly and incompatible.
blows my mind is a bit of an overstatement. i dont gig so i dont need to worry about pedals falling off and effers stealing pedals. p-boards get dirty and velcro can be vacuumed easily (if one is smart and has taped the soft side on the board). dust and hair/fur and grime do not vacuum easily off dual lock 🤢.
i agree with the CS series and EB ribbon cables though--both are excellent, affordable prods.
I usually don’t comment videos on YT but your channel is such a useful source of information. I’ve been upgrading my rig for almost 15 years and still learning new things so thank you very much and keep up the good work !
Glad to help!
That's nothing short of impressive you can cover what every pedal board user should know in 14min. What a Legend!!!
Thank you so much for watching!
This is by far the BEST video on pedalboards out there. I've watched several videos before I started building my own wooden board covered in musou black, and I came back specifically to write this comment. Of all videos, the five tips of this one were golden.
For each tip, I'd like to share my experiences and choices based on what is available in Europe. I am NOT advertising for any of these products.
1. After considering the selection criteria, I went for the Palmer PWT 12 Mk 2.
2. I'm a sucker for braided patch cables, so I always have been using HQ ones. But I'm grateful to have learnt of Mogami.
3. I got convinced I need a buffer and opted for a Car Martin Buff DeLuxe.
4. I got a roll of 3M Dual Lock SJ 3550 (4 m x 5 cm / 15' x 2" / 2 sq. m / 310 sq. in.). If you find the right supplier, it's only slightly more expensive than when you buy 3 rolls of Velcro to get the same surface area.
5. I bought a can of DeoxIT D5; a reseller on Amazon offers it in Europe.
Additional tips for DIY:
6. If you build your own board, you'll want to use adjustable levelling feet.
7. To make sure cables don't touch the ground, affix them to the bottom of the board using cable clips or cable holders.
Thanks for watching!!!
Well it's a good feeling when you already have and use everything that's mentioned in this video!!
The holy Trinity of tone! High-quality buffers, high-quality soldered cables, high quality isolated power supply will get you in tone heaven.
@@VertexEffectsInc check, check, and check!
@@joshscus perfecto!
Truly democratizing great tone. Thanks for this Mason
Thank you so much for the support Skyler
To anyone debating a dual buffer...I bought the Empress Dual Buffer for about $99 and it is one of the smartest purchases ever
There you go!
Something I found using EBS vs. those pancake plug patch cables is the latter can have impractically large heads for some applications: you physically can’t plug two of them in next to each other in a lot of switchers, for instance. EBS plugs are a lot smaller and save a lot of headaches of that sort.
Is there a docta in the house!??? can't wait!
hahahah! Thanks Colson Towing!
the Ford Thurston Riff. I recognized right away.. Good on ya
He's the man!
Is this the Pedals Anonymous meeting? Hello, my name is El Daverino,...and I am here for Uncle Mason's steel strang ragtime band pedal board show!
Premiering at 10AM today! Stay tuned!
Hello, El Daverino… Glad you made it to the meeting!
Thank you, sir. I'm building my first pedalboard for bass and this helped immensely.
Glad I could help!
God bless you, Rig Doctor.
Thanks for watching!
I think I got the last Mesa Boogie Buffer in the world. I had to order it from Japan When I tell you I scoured the Earth....I looked all the way to all the other major countries. Yes Europe, Australia, and North America are sold out. Crazy to think I had to go that far to get one. But Mason recommended it! lol Thanks man, sorry to all other guitarist looking for one. You'll have to wait til MB puts them out again.
Hope it helps! We also have our buffer as well! www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/VBuffInt--vertex-effects-pedalboard-buffer-interface
essential information that covers , as you say, a necessary foundation for a clean signal one can depend upon. thank you.
Thank you for watching! I hope we earned your sub!
I recently discovered your channel and I have to say I'm really enjoying some of your videos! I love how unpretentious you are in your recommendations. Like, "here's a good option, but here's a cheaper option that's just as good." Or just straight up saying we don't need A, B, or C. Nice work!
Thanks for watching! I appreciate that :)
Thanks for this Dr. Mason. Really useful video.
My pleasure! thanks for watching
I just ordered some Deoxit through your link. I’m stoked! I think this is what my bass input needs
You'll love it!
Gonna need me some of those mogami patch cables. Glad I clicked this video!
This guy and channel are both excellent. Thank you for the content
Our pleasure!
I bought some random patch cables from GC and I was thinking I may need to buy the ones this guy is telling us about. Turns out those were the exact cables i bought😂
Hope nobody’s offended if I ask for an European contact Spray recommendation
D5 is 32€ + shipping in Germany…
Been a Neutrik nerd for 17 years straight, pardon the humor…
Only patch cables may have Hicons.
Subbed and really appreciate your content!
The D5 is worth it and for most recreational players will last years. Neutrik is great for instrument cables but not ideal for a pedalboard. I think Hicon is made in China now so is tick stick with SquarePlugs.
@@VertexEffectsInc
ty for the quick response.
I didn’t have any issues with the hicons on some Sommer cables, but once I need new patch cables, I’ll try square plugs!
PRF sprays are just as good, 6-68 is a good dry cleaner for jacks and connectors, 7-78 is what you want for pots and faders. If you have a really dirty pot, I recommend cleaning it first with 6-68, and finishing it off with 7-78, as the lubricant can otherwise flood the pot.
New subscriber. Not sure how in the hell I haven't seen this channel yet but I'm more than grateful to be here thank you for all of the useful information and be good champ
Thanks and welcome
Thanks for taking the time to answer so many questions. I found them very useful along with the great video.
🙏🙏🙏 my pleasure
i like your patch combo for the serviceability.
and it just makes sense to me to be able to make custom lengths, and have left over cable i can swap in, on reusable plugs, if i have a problem.
I actually like the bonafide after the drive pedals when they are on, and before them when they are off... so there is some compromise needed and i have to agree that better tone overall for the pedalboard is using a buffer in the beginning of the chain
If you actually are turning on the distortion pedal, I don’t predict there’s going to be much of a benefit for running it after it as opposed to just running one of them dead last in not having an input Buffer at all, presumably if you have any distortion pedal on that’s the low output impedance signal. For most devices over a short run a cable it’s not gonna make much of a difference whether the output impedance is 100 ohms or 1K ohms.
@@VertexEffectsInc agree
@@Antonio-nn5ot yes indeed!
I always use the Xotic EP booster at the beginning of the chain, the first pedal. It's always worked for me since it came out.
It’s one option, however the output impedance isn’t particularly good, I don’t recall with the input impedances, it might be OK if it’s just controlling your pick up a loading, but I wouldn’t recommend it as a line driver. The other problem is it inverts the polarity, which can be an issue in some rigs.
@@VertexEffectsInc thanks. I’ll try to buy the materials to made the Vertex DIY.
@@VertexEffectsIncHey Mason I run that pedal at the end of my board, also I have a Soul food 4 pedals in which I think is a buffer. What is your opinion?
@@PERRADE let us know if we can assist.
@@scottpickett9779 you need a high quality buffer on your input and output of your system as I suggest, no way around that. It needs to have a 1M input impedance and a 100 ohm output impedance if you want to quality it (generally - there are some exceptions). The Klon is a great overdrive (Soul Food), the buffer is awful - TL072 is a terrible IC for this application. Follow my suggestions, you'll get better results.
I'm loving everyone of your videos
Wow! Thanks!
never heard of deoxit, i’ve had my board for years and years and didn’t know about contact cleaner. thanks for the heads up !
Great video. Evidence Audio solderless cables are outstanding as well plus really good customer service. Worth to check out if soldering is not your thing.
Love that you play Ford tune
Ha!
Great video. I use the tc electronic polytune 3 with the built in bonified buffer. 2 birds 1 stone.
That’s only satisfies the input buffer, you’d still need an output buffer.
@@VertexEffectsInc would a boss pedal work ? Thanks
@@BMitchell no, it's an awful output buffer, a poor at driving long lines and the more capacitance seen on the output the more unstable it gets. You need something that is around 100 ohms output impedance. I'd stick with my recommendations or you can build one of our DIY buffer kits.
@@VertexEffectsInc awesome. Thank you. I'll probably pick up a bonafied buffer. Can't beat it for the money. Really enjoy your videos. Keep em coming.
@@VertexEffectsInc I ordered another bonafide buffer. Thanks again man.
Nice, I had an analog chorus who was very picky with the PS, I ended building my own linear supply, I used an unregulated 12V wallwart connected to a box near the pedal board with a LM7809 regulator inside, because it was a wallwart there was no AC near the board. no more hum.
Very nice!
Also, I would really like to understand the purpose of having buffers in the signal chain. Would you be able to give us a really basic explanation of how to use them. Thanks again and congrats on a great channel.
I think our videos about buffers would do the best job, please look them up and get several different perspectives and how to use them best.
You're right, I use EBS patch cables and they are just very good and a good power supply is also the right thing, Cioks is a good alternative and they are not so pricy at all. I don't use buffers, maybe I must try one.
Real soldered cables are better - but these are superior to a low profile Solderless for sure. You have buffers where you know it or not - any pedal turned on - true bypass or not - is a buffer.
Hey Manson! I learned so much from your channel. I am upgrading my pedalboard and using a lot of your recommendations... Thanks!
Great to hear!
Zip ties and those twist ties or little velcro straps to keep your loose cables in order
Awesome tips, I always wondered what that magic spray was 😀
👍👍👍
FYI, TrueTone pedals (V2 and V3 series) have the Pure Tone Buffer inside them already. For the V3 series, there is also a dip switch inside to turn it off.
Awesome tips man! Thanks for sharing!
Any time!
You almost forgot about the Suhr Buffer, that's a great one, too. Although for guitars running a stereo rig, it only applies to the output side, and if you're a bassist like Billy Sheehan that splits the signal from the instrument, but only have one output on the bass, this buffer will be usuable to split the signal for different frequencies.
Didn't forget, it's just not the most budget friendly version, and I'm trying to recommend stuff for beginners and folks just getting their "sea legs" with this stuff. Secondly, it's not in production from what I can see.
I started using neutrik 90° replacement jacks low noise and using cable for microphone and leaving the fourth wire as an anti antenna wire to shut down surrounding noise, sounds crazy but it works? I have a couple spots where I used the mxr Close Quarters 90°, they are nice thanks for your videos you're making a difference ☆.
I'd stay away for Neutrik on a pedalboard...no reason to use these nor the mic cable. You're just adding capacitance for no reason.
I have 2 EHX S8 power supplies - highly recommend
This is a perfect example of a man who lives, eats, breathes music tech.
We are all better for it.
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the information.
My pleasure!
Harley benton iso 12 is awesome!!
Nice!!
Great tips, getting some deoxit for the road.
Pedalboard upgrades I need include one new Vertex Travel Plus pedalboard.
Yessir! Do it!
Questions about the dual lock: 1) Why do you recommend different types for the board (400) and the pedals (250), versus the same for both? Is there an advantage to this mixed setup? Asking because it appears that the 250 is half the price of the 400, so 250 tape on both would be a lot cheaper.
2) Also, your amazon link for the SJ3550/250 stem is pointing to TB3550/250 stem. What’s the difference in the SJ vs. TB types? Thanks!
I always use 250. 400 is ridiculously strong. 400 works well if you want to stick a power brick under your board, or something like that. But for board and pedals, 250 is more than strong enough.
1) it's stronger if you use two different densities. If you want it easier to pull apart I'd just use 250 on both sides. 2) Not sure, they may have changed the link destination. I'll check it out.
Are you aware of any simple test meter that can measure capacitance and impedance for the patch cables to verify their measurements before using on the board?
Would a polytune 3 first in chain and then Strymon flint last be good? I’ve heard these are both great buffers. Thanks!
Yes, just fine.
Thanks a lot, Mason! Invaluable tips! \m/
My pleasure!
Can't wait to visit uncle Mason
See you soon!
The 1spot pro12 actually does have an 18volt transformer that could make noise.
My board is mounted on diamond plate on top of melamine board I just use crimp on connectors and supply is underneath I even have a couple blue led lighting automotive type. Clean power
The Best powers support I think it’s Strymon zuma, Rx, oja, etc
There are other comparable ones too
Great content! Gold!
Thanks for watching Antonio!
I used the EBS flat cables for my bass pedalboard, I needed a lot of them and none have failed so far in 2 years.
They are soldered internally, just FYI.
Nice! Thanks
Our pleasure!
Thoughts on the strymon zuma power supply?
Wonderful, just a higher price point option of a switch mode power supply, they are excellent as well
Wow just stumbled on your channel and have learned so much. Great stuff.
Amazing video, so useful! what about Palmer power supplies?
I don't know them.
Love this channel .
Cheers
Thanks for watching!
Hey Mason..I’ve learnt so much from your RUclips channel..Regarding Velcro, which one do you put on your pedal board and which on you pedal..many thanks 👍 Al from the U.K.
Our Power Grip velcro or 3M Dual Lock.
Hi Mason, i saw a MXR/CAE Line Booster for a good price.
Can i use it as buffer?
If yes, is it before or after. Thanks.
Anyways, i already have a Boss TU-3, as a buffer if not engage.
You can, you just have to leave it "ON" for it to be a buffer. The buffer quality of the Tuner is not comparable to the MXR in terms of quality and efficiency. Remember not all buffers are created equally, just like not all overdrives are a Klon.
My new vertex board and S.S will arrive on Monday i just can’t wait. I just have to save a bunch of money to swap my evidence audio cables for something better.
The cables are fine - just get new plugs and you can solder your evidence plugs! Thanks so much for the support!
@@VertexEffectsInc thanks to you Mason for the awesome products and advise. Wich kind of plugs would you say is a good option?
@@hectorherrera7926 SquarePlugs SP400/5000 or SPS4/SPS5 - it depends on the diameter of your cable. Check out Best Tronics website and they have a look up table for the which plugs fit the cable you have.
@@VertexEffectsInc thank you so much Mason you are the best!
@@hectorherrera7926 Thanks for watching!
Thanks bro. Great vid.cheers
Any time!
Thumbnail: (Is that a metal zone?) I’m listening... ;)
🤣🤣🤣
Very nice video!
🥰🥰🥰
Hi Vertex Team! Love your videos and congratulations on 100K! 🥳
About the contact cleaner: I'm not in the US so DeoxIT is hard to get and expensive. Is there any other alternative or maybe some facts I should be aware of, when buying a contact cleaner for my PB? :)
Not that I know of. DeOxit is unique, nothing else I've found really does it for pedals and amps like this.
@@VertexEffectsInc yep, is quite expensive outside US, in Greece is about 40-50 euros! But I give it a try! thank you!
If only that MXR M238 power supply had an integrated power supply and took an IEC power cable. I have nightmares of one of those wall wart units going bad.
I have a park fuzz sound by earthquaker and an ehx green big muff, should I put a buffer before them?
I'm not sure of the composition of the pedals, should be easy for you to test and see if the sound is changed by way of the buffer. If so, put the buffer after the fuzz. Ordinarily the buffer sounds best after fuzz.
Watching this from Perú, crying. There's no way I get some of this things in my country. lol
What’s the thing you need most perhaps I can suggest an alternative
entiendo el sentimiento :(
Ok, I am using an 8 outlet power strip, with surge protection, that has the rotating sockets so you can stagger wall warts. Power strip is attached with dual lock under Pedaltrain.
Using individual $8 d'Addario 9V 500ma AC/DC switching supplies. I have dual USB plug in chargers for USB to 12v for midi looper, and USB to 18V for OCD.
Completely isolated (not like some power supplies that only say they are.) Operates anywhere in the world. Cheap, expandable ( I could run 16 devices if I used USB to 9V adapter cables.) No single point of failure, completely configurable. Half the price, twice the capability.USB power to charge devices on the board, extra outlets to chain other boards or plug amps into.
Oh, yeah, no noise. Con? None? Doesn't look cool hidden under the board.
Is there a downside to this approach?
If you're not getting noise that's the ultimate litmus test. I alway like testing a rig by putting the entire pedalboard into a true bypass looper and hearing the guitar plugged directly into the amp versus bringing in the board. This way you can ID any tone suck or noise in the system.
Awesome!!! Need me a power supply!
Perfect! This video should help!
@@VertexEffectsInc it did! I've been looking at power supplies for my first pedalboard setup. I'm saving my pennies to get a high-quality supply. Thanks for your recommendations!
@@BrentGrowe great! Glad I can help!
Hi Mason, I've got a CS12 but I'm running out of outputs, so I was wondering the following: Could I buy a mini Iso Brick and power it with the 18V output from my CS12? That way I'll have to plug in just one power chord for my entire pedalboard. Would that be possible?
I think there is some sort of current minimum that needs to feed it, might need to check on that. An alternative could be the Voodoo Lab x4
@@VertexEffectsInc thanks so much man! I'll look into that
Switchmode power supplies are lighter, cooler, and cheaper than good linear power supplies; but, a good linear is going to be significantly lower in noise than most switchers. The main impediment to using a linear are the size, weight and cost of the heatsinks.
If you're comparing power supplies designed for audio in our field. The switching power supply, in the audio range, as quiet in as the best linear supplies. The high quality versions aren't necessarily cheaper and most of the linear supplies aren't actually toroids. Furthermore you can't just put a linear power supply anywhere you want on a rig, you have limitations and the leakage of the EMF is what you're missing in your analysis. This is a HUGE problem and results in noise in the system even if the outputs themselves are totally isolated and quiet.
SMPSs are noisy compared to linear power supplies; that's why precision electronics are iffy about them. But the noise is usually well above the audio spectrum and therefore inaudible. Cheap digital pedals might throw a fit over a cheap SMPS, but I've never heard of that happening, since any digital circuit or chip worth its salt buffers the power it receives; usually with a linear voltage regulator IC. I don't believe any analog circuitry used in guitar pedals is going to have any trouble with HF noise, so an SMPS is actually a very good option for guitar effects. The main downfall for linear power supplies is that they radiate a lot of noise if they aren't shielded and grounded like they ought to be.
Well, its officially, I have obsession with your videos!
Let me ask something, do I need a buffer even in a small pedalboard with max 3-4 (maybe 5 pedals), or the buffer needed when we are talking, for examble, for pedalboards that have 10 pedals or above.
Yes!
@@VertexEffectsInc I bought the Carl Martin Buff Deluxe buffer. Hope this works fine. Can I ask you something else, if the chain goes like that -> last pedal buffer -> after that a true bypass patchbay -> and then goes to amp, it will work or the buffer must be the last pedal before the amp?
Turn all of your pedals off and strum a couple chords. Now plug the guitar directly into the amp and see if it makes any difference. If it does, you need a buffer.
@@JesseKoroteyev thank you for the reply. I did what you said and didn't notice any difference. But at the end I change my setup and now my setup has as the very last pedal a buffer and not a true bypass switcher. I'm very happy with my sound for the first time in my life, Dr Rig's videos are very very helpful, all you need is to understand what he really meant and what you really want. I didn't like the Carl Martin buffer, sounds like a compressor so I used a custom buffer with specs as close as possible to the specifications he suggests.
@@karhariasgr thank you
Good advice...as usual! 👍
🙏🙏🙏
I know this video is almost a year old, but I've watched at least 10 other Vertex videos and I have finally decided to build soldered cables instead of the Lava cables I've been using. Can you say SquarePlugs?
Great, you can use the Lava cable too and just solder it with Squareplugs. The cable is totally fine.
@@VertexEffectsInc I ordered some Mogami 2314. As you've always said, it's cheap and it's more flexible than the solid core Lava cable.
Aloha from Hawaii Dr. Mason 🏝🌋 I really appreciate your videos, they are so informative , I am learning a lot and appreciation your recommendations . I would like to build the DIY Mono dual buffer with tuner out .. I realize that the order of effects pedals can vary , can you give me your opinion of my pedals placement, if they are in the correct order sequence : Guitar into a Sonic Research Turbo tuner ST 300 , Gamechanger PLUS sustainer , Wampler ego , Analog man king of tones , Boss D-S1 , Morley little alligator volume Pedal , TC Flashback , TC HOF , Into a fender pro junior . Your help & suggestions would be much appreciated … thanks in advance !
Watch our signal paths video...I think this will help :)
Minor comment-for tube sockets, (as opposed to jacks, pots,etc.) you generally want a contact cleaner WITHOUT lubricant.
Deoxit is the move...there should be no conflict there.
Good list. Deoxit is essential!
yes, the liquid of the godz!
Awesome man😃
🥰🥰🥰
Would shielding help reduce noise if you have the older style power supply?
Steel or Mumetal but doing it properly would negate just buying a switch mode supply.
Thanks for the informative videos, your pedal boards look great.
Is the Voodoo Labs pedal power 3 plus a reccomend power supply?
Thanks
Barney J Bernard
Yes it is! The Pedal Power 3, 3+, x4, and x8 are all switch mode and great!
Hello uncle Mason! I ve got some questions..
1. I use the g lab gsc3 controller, which has a built in buffer...should I count on it?
2. I'm kinda in love with the Vertex Boost...if I buy one, will it complete the need for a buffer? I play my boost pedal in the fx loop...
3. Should I go for the truetone or the t.c. buffer, if needed, or save money for the Mesa?
Thanks!!!
1) It's okay for an input buffer, I don't think there is an output buffer
2) It is a great boost and buffer but if it's not the last thing in the chain the buffer can't be as effective as a dedicated buffer, and in the loop is not going to help with the front of the amp.
3) Depends on your effects loop, but having an input buffer, output buffer, and a buffer on the return of your FX Loop could be needed, but at least an input and output buffer. The Truetone is a good budget option. I also like the Mesa Boogie High Wire for a great dual buffer in one.
@@VertexEffectsInc thanks a lot!
@@mitskoski you bet!
If Im using a polytune 3 that comes with built-in buffer. Do I still need another buffer for my last pedal?
Yep!
I'd probably need a pedal board in the first place, but great video. 😅
🥰🥰🥰
Do you need buffers if you use guitars with active electronics/pickups?
For the input buffer, no. For the output buffer, yes, you still need it.
Hey Mason, I have a boss bcb60 pedalboard and it has its own power supply, would you still recommend, for example the truetone and bypass the boss power supply? Super video, thanks for your great work!
Nader
Love the late 70s early 80s soft porn music in the background! Nice tips and great work as always! Stay safe!
Before my time, glad you enjoyed the video
Hi Mason. First of all, thank you so much for your videos. I've learned a lot about pedalboards thanks to you! I have question. Should I buy both 3m Dual locks tapes (SJ3550 AND SJ3551)? You rock, great stuff!
Yes or just buy our Power Grip and you just need on: www.therigdr.com
@@VertexEffectsInc cool! Thank you so much!
Great video.
How would you handle buffers when you have a tone bender style circuit at the begging game? Put it after?
Also...does a Strymon buffer do that trick at the end? Or would you buffer after the Strymon as well?
Put the input buffer after the Fuzz. Strymon has fairly low output impedance, around 100 ohms, which is good.
Thank you for the nice informative show! Just one question, if I have 4 pedals in the effects loop and 5 pedals in front of the amp, do I have to put 4 buffers? 2 in the effects loop and 2 in the front of the amp? Thank you for sharing!
Pedro, I would say get a dual buffer - if you have a buffered effects loop, you may not need one there - at worst you'd need one on the RETURN only going back to the FX Loop Return from the last pedal in your effects loop.
@@VertexEffectsInc Thank you a lot!
@@petrvm my pleasure!
Rig Doctor you are my hero, question: do sell buffers i mean like the ones you build? if so I'm interested in purchasing a stereo buffer? thanks!
We will have some options for custom buffers in 2021.
Mason!! The doctor, the legend, the man.
Hahahahah! Thanks Brian!
@@VertexEffectsInc 👍 💯 the Dual Lock is key man! You were the guy to turn me onto it. I actually cover the whole board in 400 and then put 4 little squares of 250 on each pedal. Might be overkill, but at least I don't have to take it off. The 400 dual lock I use is pretty permanent. Near impossible to take off without some serious chemicals.
@@BrianElliot just get an upholstery crowbar and you can remove it no problem
@@VertexEffectsInc it's the type that has a black rubber-like bottom, and the adhesive is so strong that when you try to remove it, you get the black rubber stuff still there.
It was the only reverb seller selling dual lock last I checked. Not sure the upholstery crowbar would do the trick there.
@@BrianElliot that's not the version I'm recommending or link - that's a cheaper version.