Thanks for disassembly addition. Contact area of switch contact appears to be about 1/8 inch which will only handle 50A continuous as you measured. I was a bit worried about DC arc damage after about 10-20 operations you did under load. The lack of snap action means you have to operate switch quickly to break DC loads,. I would not recommend using it for breaking DC loads especially at 48V.
I would have like to have seen the heads of the studs (bolts). Bolts usually have identification stamped on the head in the form of raised lettering. In which might decrease surface area of the contacts
i did not like the surface of the contact and i think i m going to make it a bit more flat for better contactivity want it for permenant on use and no much swhtching..... still for 60 amps is quiet good .. thanks for tutorial. btw i might add a copper thin washer behind the spring to adapt the loosen gap after grind and polish the contactiv surfaces of the moving part
Power Supply I use: DC 30V 60A Power supply: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_98Ah5c DC 60V 30A Power supply: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_APyPJ0 and using ITECH IT8516C+ Electronic load www.tequipment.net/ITech/IT8516C+/Electronic-Loads/ which comes with software. For this video I used 100Ah LiFePo4 batteries.
The little pamphlet that comes with the switch shows the switch being connected to the negative wire. The switch should always be connected to the supply side or positive wire, not the ground wire. I'm returning this switch because of that and the damaged you showed in the video. You get what u pay for.
@@MoroniGivens-jq9mi Didn't know that, I thought it was like a typical light switch in a house, you never want the positive to go straight to the fixture in case you need to work on the fixture or change light bulbs. In a RV it is better to connect the negative to the switch to protect from shorting the positive terminal to the frame by accident. In a camper van I have a switch from the starter battery/alternator to a DC to DC charger, which is a different situation, I believe the ground is pass though the DC to DC so you want to put the switch on the positive since it is directly connected to the starter battery and the frame is already grounded.
to turn OFF the battery? what kind of car? we should know the amount of current when you start the engine. I do not adivse using it for a car as most cars will need 200A to 300A when you start the engine. this might wear out in a few months and will die.
Properly designed switches have a mechanism that minimises contact arcing. They also use contactor alloys that lower contact resistance. These cheap Chinese things are dangerous and should not be used under any circumstances.
what does it means "releas the amps"? this is a switch between battery and the load (like motor or whateer). you can't control it. Just turn ON or OFF.
This really helped sir. I know now not to trust these things. And even go the DIY route. And they sell this stuff for so much
You don't have to break the side panels. They just slide in and out.
Thanks for disassembly addition. Contact area of switch contact appears to be about 1/8 inch which will only handle 50A continuous as you measured. I was a bit worried about DC arc damage after about 10-20 operations you did under load.
The lack of snap action means you have to operate switch quickly to break DC loads,. I would not recommend using it for breaking DC loads especially at 48V.
You are not supposed to switch under load.... It's an isolator. You cut the load then isolate circuit from the battery.
This is not a breaker.
Pretty sure those plastic side walls will slide off / back in. (I used one of these a few months ago and don't remember snapping it off, that's all.)
Thanks about so useful review!
Looks like nothing better than 1-pole handle power load breakers with an arc extinguishing chamber didn't invent yet.
Actually there is. I've got another breaker and soon I am going to make review video. I need up to 200A to 300A continuous breaker.
I would have like to have seen the heads of the studs (bolts). Bolts usually have identification stamped on the head in the form of raised lettering. In which might decrease surface area of the contacts
I have had 2 melt on me with 140 amp load for 2 to 3 minutes. Also the Voltage drop is secure at those loads. I agree they are over rated.
i ordered 350amp
i did not like the surface of the contact and i think i m going to make it a bit more flat for better contactivity
want it for permenant on use and no much swhtching..... still for 60 amps is quiet good .. thanks for tutorial. btw i might add a copper thin washer behind the spring to adapt the loosen gap after grind and polish the contactiv surfaces of the moving part
Mine still carries voltage across in the off position. And sometimes won't carrie voltage in the on position.
And it is supposed to be a new switch
Is this the 300A rated switch?
The side panels slide off… you can slide them on and off
What power suppy are you using? 200 amps - incredible. And what maximum other params: voltage, wattage?
Power Supply I use:
DC 30V 60A Power supply: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_98Ah5c
DC 60V 30A Power supply: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_APyPJ0
and using ITECH IT8516C+ Electronic load www.tequipment.net/ITech/IT8516C+/Electronic-Loads/ which comes with software. For this video I used 100Ah LiFePo4 batteries.
Hello What battery master disconnect switch suppy are you using? 200 amps.
Hello, o showed all the test and current. Yes 200A.
Comment l'installer sur 4 batterie 🔋 48v merci
The good ones should have copper posts.
The little pamphlet that comes with the switch shows the switch being connected to the negative wire. The switch should always be connected to the supply side or positive wire, not the ground wire. I'm returning this switch because of that and the damaged you showed in the video. You get what u pay for.
no actually neg on rv, positive boat
@@MoroniGivens-jq9mi Didn't know that, I thought it was like a typical light switch in a house, you never want the positive to go straight to the fixture in case you need to work on the fixture or change light bulbs. In a RV it is better to connect the negative to the switch to protect from shorting the positive terminal to the frame by accident. In a camper van I have a switch from the starter battery/alternator to a DC to DC charger, which is a different situation, I believe the ground is pass though the DC to DC so you want to put the switch on the positive since it is directly connected to the starter battery and the frame is already grounded.
so..is it safe to install this devise in our car tq sir
to turn OFF the battery? what kind of car? we should know the amount of current when you start the engine. I do not adivse using it for a car as most cars will need 200A to 300A when you start the engine. this might wear out in a few months and will die.
Properly designed switches have a mechanism that minimises contact arcing. They also use contactor alloys that lower contact resistance. These cheap Chinese things are dangerous and should not be used under any circumstances.
Release the amps before making any move, 50 amps is a lot imagine 80 or 100 amps wrong test.
what does it means "releas the amps"? this is a switch between battery and the load (like motor or whateer). you can't control it. Just turn ON or OFF.