I have AS 150 anti-spark connectors on everything that is 6s and above, they work great. Just one small precaution: The anti-spark connector is easily damaged when applying too much heat during soldering. It's clearly visible, because the insulation ring gets fried! 🔥
@@Seneslau07 I always plug in the opposite gender connector to my connector I'm soldering whether it be a battery connector or an ESC or ADAPTER connector. Not only does it keep the connector I'm soldering cooler, it's keeps them aligned and straight if the plastic gets too hot.
My ESC (Flier) has separate antispark line which is basically a standard resistor in parallel (or inline) with the negative battery lead, it's quite easy to make one yourself. Antispark connectors are much simpler option though.
I was checking my steering out and I have a new LiHV battery. I had plugged it in last night and no spark. That was so I could bind my receiver and put the steering servo into the neutral position. Tonight I had finished the steering linkage and I wanted to test it out. I was storage discharging my LiHV battery (a VERY painful process for LiHV since you should use .5C or less for discharge), but decided to use it before it was discharged. The last thing I wanted was another 8 hour discharge cycle. That's the only difference. Today when I plugged it in it sparked and popped like crazy. I thought I had plugged it in reverse at first since it's a deans plug, and I quickly disconnected hoping I didn't damage my brand new $200 ESC. I plugged it in again - this time inside a LiPo bag, wearing safety glasses, and using my shock proof pliers to hold one connector (didn't want to make a circuit across my chest - in A school that's the first thing they teach you - one hand only). It worked just fine and I felt kind of embarrassed that I was so careful. Even worse when I find this video and discover that it's common. This was a 2S battery, and because the ESC is using an XT60 connector I am using a XT60 to Deans converter. I was eventually going to solder the XT 60 connector on my battery. I think it's because of that janky setup that I got the spark, so I guess I'll be soldering soon. I have the connectors already. I've just been lazy.
I always plug in the opposite gender connector to my connector I'm soldering whether it be a battery connector or an ESC or ADAPTER connector. Not only does it keep the connector I'm soldering cooler, it keeps them aligned and straight if the plastic gets too hot.
This same thing happens with 1:1 cars when you connect the cables in the improper order. In order to avoid the spark you must plug the cables/wires in the proper order. Connect the positive cable before the negative and the spark will not occur.
Great video. I always thought that it was some sort of capacitor which acted as a buffer during the connection process. Good to know. BTW, when soldering the wire to the connector with the resistor, be careful not to use too much heat for too long. Ask me how I know...
When switching connectors I usually make an adapter for my current connector to the new connector and just use the new style on all new packs/vehicles. Of course this only works on applications where you know the old connector delivers sufficient current already.
@@ubreakitirepairit3569 I disagree. When resistors fail they usually go high resistance or likely open circuit in this case, so no current will pass through it. Same result though except the spark will occur on the main section of the connector instead of the tip.
I have changed most of my Lipo's connectors to QS8 anti spark ones. Those connectors a huge, and can handle a ton of amps and heat. I just changed the connectors on my big 60V scooter battery as well. I will never understand, why do Chinese factories think, that having a 60V battery with small XT60 connectors, is a good idea? I put the QS8 connectors on the battery.
Great video. I have AS150 connectors and I am on the way to make it also. But when i using only one 4/6s battery, i preffer to have both male on batt and both female on the ESC. Because if antispark connector fail i some case, it will be only one battery issue, not all because of ESC. If anytime there will be any needs to run two packs, im only make 2x female short cable for connect batteries together. There is no rule in these types of connector where F/M has to be. Your solution is better for stable 2pack usage for have lower resistance. But there is an option to make it different if you using only one battery. So users have to thing little bit, which combination choose :-)
Does the anti spark female end need to be used with an antispark male end or will it still have the anti spark ability if I used a regular male end with the antispark female end?
@@ianwalton284 oh wow for real- on IC5? I guess I just haven't seen it yet. I was actually wondering if it's just bc he's plugging the negative one in first. Like regular cars will often do that too if you connect negative before positive.
Hello RC Explained I love your videos and have been madly catching up over the last few days. Potentially an outrageous question but why are modellers all putting up with connection sparks when we could just use an inline switch?
“Twelve-gauge wire is good for 20 amps, 10-gauge wire is good for 30 amps, 8-gauge is good for 40 amps, and 6-gauge is good for 55 amps,” and “The circuit breaker or fuse is always sized to protect the conductor [wire].” You should always connect the positive terminal first and then the negative terminal. This is because the negative terminal is connected to ground and if you connect it first, you could create a spark which could damage your battery or cause an explosion.
Yah that's what I thought, same with a car. You always plug in hot first, then ground. When you take it off you go the opposite. Take off ground first, then hot.
Here's what I did to avoid the spark/melting; Hook both ground wires with the same gauge wire together and then both positives on a switch that could handle the load.
I have a question, I've been using my XT90s connectors on my electric bike for almost six months, just plug and play. Now all of a sudden I'm getting a spark, I can't see the spark but I can hear it. If the owner of this video do not respond can someone help me solve this problem please, I just don't want to purchase a whole new setup and end up with the same results.
@@RCexplained It does have the anti spark circuitry and it just started to pop/spark, but once it's connected my electric bike rides normal: wires don't get hot, the controller and battery wires are not hot even after a 30 mile ride, also the battery charges backup as usual. Let me ask another question, have ever had a Xt90s female to go bad on you and changed it out and that solved your problem. I'm tempted to change it out but I need to know do they go bad sometime.
Hello. Thanks for explaining how anti-spark connectors work. I have an unrelated question that I hope someone can answer. If 3S lipo's are best suited to XT60 connectors and 6S lipo's is best suited to XT90 , what happens when two 3S batteries are connected in series to make 6S power? Should the connectors then be XT90?
It's not the 3s part of the battery that determines the connector. It's the amount of current that the battery can put out that determines the connector to use. A 3s 2200mAh is perfectly fine using a Xt60. 2 3s packs in series would use a XT60 connector. However if it was a 5000+mAh 45C+ 3s pack, I would suggest XT90 at the very least.
Hi, You seem very professional and well informed in your videos. Can you please give me your opinion on weither these AS150 are 150A continous and 200A peak or 60A continous and 150A peak? Because I've seen both specs on them. I plan on using them on a big 24s 8p li ion battery on an electric paramotor similar to the US openppg SP140 that uses the MAD M50 34kw 20kw motor. Usualy the power needed to fly is between 3-6kw (40-80A at a nominal 80v) and peaks at 10-18kw (120-200A) for a few seconds like on takeof). Do you think these plugs will handle that and don't get hot because I really like them? They used at the product named above QS8 and changed with giant Andersons because some said the QS8 got hot but I'm guessing they were heavy pilots which is not my case, the difference can be from 3 to 6kw difference for level flight so I'll be on the light consumption.
These plugs will work very well at 40-80A continuous. They can handle up to 150A continuous. They will be quite warm at this rate of current draw. I would try the plugs and if you are not comfortable with the performance, they are probably the easiest component to swap out for something more beefy. Very low risk in my opinion. Very interesting project, too.
@@RCexplained Is it a problem to have multiple plugs with the antispark rezistor in the same circuit? I will have three battery packs connected in series and have these plugs at the serial connections also, one red to one black, pozitive of one pack to negative of the other.
Desolderd completely the wires on the Esc and solder the needed length of wire on it, that's the proper way to extend a wire, everything else is a botched job, but if it works for you and you have no problems with it looki g like that, it's OK but still a botched job.
@@bigboytoyzrc9258 Yes and no, the resistor in the connection isn't the only resistance in the circuit, so you can't use that formula unless you also factor in the ESC(And it's caps charging). And now that I'm awake, I can see there's no good way to calculate it, as I*R has the same problem as V/R. Namely the variable resistance of the ESC.
I have AS 150 anti-spark connectors on everything that is 6s and above, they work great. Just one small precaution: The anti-spark connector is easily damaged when applying too much heat during soldering. It's clearly visible, because the insulation ring gets fried! 🔥
Great tip Remko!
I'm surprised these aren't crimp fit. In the battery world you never solder a battery connector lug or terminal.
I've read that keeping it plugged to the female transfers heat to it and also presses the ring in place
Maybe I'll try placing a damp sponge on the other end of the connector while soldering.
@@Seneslau07 I always plug in the opposite gender connector to my connector I'm soldering whether it be a battery connector or an ESC or ADAPTER connector. Not only does it keep the connector I'm soldering cooler, it's keeps them aligned and straight if the plastic gets too hot.
Thank You for All that you are doing for our Planet Earth....
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I use the XT90 anti spark connectors on everything and they are great. I've always wondered how it worked, thanks for the explanation.
No problem 👍
My ESC (Flier) has separate antispark line which is basically a standard resistor in parallel (or inline) with the negative battery lead, it's quite easy to make one yourself.
Antispark connectors are much simpler option though.
I was checking my steering out and I have a new LiHV battery. I had plugged it in last night and no spark. That was so I could bind my receiver and put the steering servo into the neutral position. Tonight I had finished the steering linkage and I wanted to test it out. I was storage discharging my LiHV battery (a VERY painful process for LiHV since you should use .5C or less for discharge), but decided to use it before it was discharged. The last thing I wanted was another 8 hour discharge cycle. That's the only difference. Today when I plugged it in it sparked and popped like crazy. I thought I had plugged it in reverse at first since it's a deans plug, and I quickly disconnected hoping I didn't damage my brand new $200 ESC. I plugged it in again - this time inside a LiPo bag, wearing safety glasses, and using my shock proof pliers to hold one connector (didn't want to make a circuit across my chest - in A school that's the first thing they teach you - one hand only). It worked just fine and I felt kind of embarrassed that I was so careful. Even worse when I find this video and discover that it's common. This was a 2S battery, and because the ESC is using an XT60 connector I am using a XT60 to Deans converter. I was eventually going to solder the XT 60 connector on my battery. I think it's because of that janky setup that I got the spark, so I guess I'll be soldering soon. I have the connectors already. I've just been lazy.
Thanks for sharing 👍. I connect one 2s lipo at a time until 8s but will need "series" adapters.
That is why I prefer these type of connectors. No Series Adapters necessary.
In FPV drones we mostly use 6S /XT 60, and they work fine.
I use QS8 anti spark connectors and they work brilliantly
I always plug in the opposite gender connector to my connector I'm soldering whether it be a battery connector or an ESC or ADAPTER connector. Not only does it keep the connector I'm soldering cooler, it keeps them aligned and straight if the plastic gets too hot.
I always get something from your videos. Thanks
Glad you do Dan!
This same thing happens with 1:1 cars when you connect the cables in the improper order. In order to avoid the spark you must plug the cables/wires in the proper order. Connect the positive cable before the negative and the spark will not occur.
I needed this lol 😅
Perfect!
Would a switch not also work between the connector cable, switch it off if you connect the battery and on if you use the battery. 🤔
Great video. I always thought that it was some sort of capacitor which acted as a buffer during the connection process. Good to know. BTW, when soldering the wire to the connector with the resistor, be careful not to use too much heat for too long. Ask me how I know...
Great tip, I've solder many of these now at this point and so far I've been lucky.
When switching connectors I usually make an adapter for my current connector to the new connector and just use the new style on all new packs/vehicles. Of course this only works on applications where you know the old connector delivers sufficient current already.
I run 10mm plugs on a 14S multirotor, and just use the resistor side of an AS150 to make the bridge as I plug in.
10mm is huuuuge. Very clever using the AS150 resistor.
HOWdy RC,
Thanks
COOP
...
Great information
Glad you think so!
Question...what will happen if the resistor gets damaged or fails during use?
Nothing. It will be as if there is no resistor. When resistors fail, electricity will pass through it as normal. So you’ll get spark again.
@@ubreakitirepairit3569 I disagree. When resistors fail they usually go high resistance or likely open circuit in this case, so no current will pass through it. Same result though except the spark will occur on the main section of the connector instead of the tip.
@@rogerwilco5187 now I don't know who to believe.
@@edwincordero8 Doesn't matter. The end result is basically the same in that it will spark when connecting, just like other connectors do.
I have changed most of my Lipo's connectors to QS8 anti spark ones. Those connectors a huge, and can handle a ton of amps and heat. I just changed the connectors on my big 60V scooter battery as well. I will never understand, why do Chinese factories think, that having a 60V battery with small XT60 connectors, is a good idea? I put the QS8 connectors on the battery.
Great video. I have AS150 connectors and I am on the way to make it also. But when i using only one 4/6s battery, i preffer to have both male on batt and both female on the ESC. Because if antispark connector fail i some case, it will be only one battery issue, not all because of ESC. If anytime there will be any needs to run two packs, im only make 2x female short cable for connect batteries together. There is no rule in these types of connector where F/M has to be. Your solution is better for stable 2pack usage for have lower resistance. But there is an option to make it different if you using only one battery. So users have to thing little bit, which combination choose :-)
The sparks has risk to damage the ESC? I have some T-motor 200A ESC that fail. I'm use common 8mm bullet connectors.
Cool. I've been using QS8 connectors for all my 8S rigs for couple years now but these are interesting too.
🇨🇦👈🤠
QS8 are great connectors too!
I have a redcat volcano and I installed a new esc and when I plug it to my nimh battery it starts smoking
Does the anti spark female end need to be used with an antispark male end or will it still have the anti spark ability if I used a regular male end with the antispark female end?
I place antispark connectors only on the esc. None of the batteries have the anti spark connector.
Is kv rating produced from the rotor or can , if install rotor from 2050kv into 2200kv can . Will I have 2060 or 2200
Are IC5 connectors "anti-spark" by design? I've only been using lipos for a short time, but I haven't seen any spark like this
Me either
I just got my first 6s 7 inch quad and it pops like a firecracker. No want.
@@ianwalton284 oh wow for real- on IC5? I guess I just haven't seen it yet. I was actually wondering if it's just bc he's plugging the negative one in first. Like regular cars will often do that too if you connect negative before positive.
Order of connection will not make a difference in our example or full size cars too.
So how does one properly extend an ESC wire as you did? I need extend one of my ESC wires about an inch as you did.
Hello RC Explained I love your videos and have been madly catching up over the last few days.
Potentially an outrageous question but why are modellers all putting up with connection sparks when we could just use an inline switch?
Hi Robb, an inline switch just moves the spark from a connector to the contact poles inside a switch. The problem will still exist.
what was your source for the anti-spark connectors shown?.
I use the exact resistor in this but I don't like that connection 8mm castle bullet is what to use for large amp draw
Most systems now have built in BMS so U plug then double press boot
“Twelve-gauge wire is good for 20 amps, 10-gauge wire is good for 30 amps, 8-gauge is good for 40 amps, and 6-gauge is good for 55 amps,” and “The circuit breaker or fuse is always sized to protect the conductor [wire].”
You should always connect the positive terminal first and then the negative terminal. This is because the negative terminal is connected to ground and if you connect it first, you could create a spark which could damage your battery or cause an explosion.
Yah that's what I thought, same with a car. You always plug in hot first, then ground. When you take it off you go the opposite. Take off ground first, then hot.
Maybe that's why he was always getting the spark, he was plugging in ground first, then hot.
Here's what I did to avoid the spark/melting; Hook both ground wires with the same gauge wire together and then both positives on a switch that could handle the load.
Second question...is that battery connection in series or parallel?
Series. 2x4s packs to make 8s.
I have a question, I've been using my XT90s connectors on my electric bike for almost six months, just plug and play. Now all of a sudden I'm getting a spark, I can't see the spark but I can hear it. If the owner of this video do not respond can someone help me solve this problem please, I just don't want to purchase a whole new setup and end up with the same results.
Is sounds like your xt90 does not have anti spark circuitry. solder an anti spark xt90 connector in.
@@RCexplained It does have the anti spark circuitry and it just started to pop/spark, but once it's connected my electric bike rides normal: wires don't get hot, the controller and battery wires are not hot even after a 30 mile ride, also the battery charges backup as usual. Let me ask another question, have ever had a Xt90s female to go bad on you and changed it out and that solved your problem. I'm tempted to change it out but I need to know do they go bad sometime.
It's possible that the resistor failed. I've never had this happen to me though. It's a simple and cheap enough fix to try out.
🤔 👍🏽💯 i plugged in out of nowhere my esc fries hb max 6 im lost only had 15 runs in?? All i come up with is the batteries? HELP ANYONE?
This could be a defective ESC. Verify that you didn't plug a 6s pack in to a 4s max ESC.
Will these connectors be okay for 8S speed run car thanks great video as always
They are not the biggest connector you can use for speed runs but they will pass some significant power.
Hello. Thanks for explaining how anti-spark connectors work. I have an unrelated question that I hope someone can answer. If 3S lipo's are best suited to XT60 connectors and 6S lipo's is best suited to XT90 , what happens when two 3S batteries are connected in series to make 6S power? Should the connectors then be XT90?
It's not the 3s part of the battery that determines the connector. It's the amount of current that the battery can put out that determines the connector to use. A 3s 2200mAh is perfectly fine using a Xt60. 2 3s packs in series would use a XT60 connector. However if it was a 5000+mAh 45C+ 3s pack, I would suggest XT90 at the very least.
@@RCexplained That makes sense. The current carrying capacity is the determining factor. Thanks for the reply!
What are your thoughts on the Qs8 anti spark connectors with 8mm connections and 300amp peak current rating?
Great connectors, however, I do prefer the connectors that allow positive and negative wires to be independent.
@@RCexplained I agree separate bullet style connectors are safer /idiot proof lol I've seen both used reliably on 12s Speedrun and drag setups.
Hi, You seem very professional and well informed in your videos. Can you please give me your opinion on weither these AS150 are 150A continous and 200A peak or 60A continous and 150A peak? Because I've seen both specs on them. I plan on using them on a big 24s 8p li ion battery on an electric paramotor similar to the US openppg SP140 that uses the MAD M50 34kw 20kw motor. Usualy the power needed to fly is between 3-6kw (40-80A at a nominal 80v) and peaks at 10-18kw (120-200A) for a few seconds like on takeof). Do you think these plugs will handle that and don't get hot because I really like them? They used at the product named above QS8 and changed with giant Andersons because some said the QS8 got hot but I'm guessing they were heavy pilots which is not my case, the difference can be from 3 to 6kw difference for level flight so I'll be on the light consumption.
These plugs will work very well at 40-80A continuous. They can handle up to 150A continuous. They will be quite warm at this rate of current draw.
I would try the plugs and if you are not comfortable with the performance, they are probably the easiest component to swap out for something more beefy. Very low risk in my opinion.
Very interesting project, too.
@@RCexplained Thank you, I will try them and check often during ground test.
@@RCexplained Is it a problem to have multiple plugs with the antispark rezistor in the same circuit? I will have three battery packs connected in series and have these plugs at the serial connections also, one red to one black, pozitive of one pack to negative of the other.
I would recommend placing the resistor on to the esc lead so that only one is required. Morr than one will work but is unnecessary.
Does the spark harm the battery?
No just the connector
Use a resister
Nice. !!👍
Got a question....
Other than damage to the connector does that or can that damage anything else?
No, the connector is primarily what you need to worry about.
@@RCexplained thanks for the reply👍
he plugged positive in first then ground witch will cause a spark
👌👍
I get that small spark effect when connecting 4s battery to rc car. Using regular EC5 connectors.
Definitely Possible. These connectors will eliminate this.
Hope you were wearing protective goggles that spark can blind you if it hits the eye.
DSosnt make sense it is on the positive connector.
All connectors are garbage I use a resistor in my last connection ,eliminating changing all connectors
Desolderd completely the wires on the Esc and solder the needed length of wire on it, that's the proper way to extend a wire, everything else is a botched job, but if it works for you and you have no problems with it looki g like that, it's OK but still a botched job.
NOTE: If you are using an XT60 or XT30 don't bother watching this........
why? can't you replace an xt60 with a bigger connector?
... I'm awake now...
V/R=I am i mistaken?
@@bigboytoyzrc9258 Yes and no, the resistor in the connection isn't the only resistance in the circuit, so you can't use that formula unless you also factor in the ESC(And it's caps charging).
And now that I'm awake, I can see there's no good way to calculate it, as I*R has the same problem as V/R.
Namely the variable resistance of the ESC.
Kermit?