Looking like Tom Brady and delivering the RC goods like a pristine fade touchdown to the corner. Love your content, better information than I've been able to found anywhere, not simply best of youtube.
@@saltybutsain6348 lol I almost lit my ass on fire from a lipo going up in flames behind my seat on my electric drift cart lol didn't have them secured properly and one got punctured
I can't think of any thing the battery try to hide from me mainly because we the consumer are so smart these days. Our engineering degrees make us know everything, and the RUclips reviews are so thorough.
This is a well known problem between racing and freestyle drone pilots. You said that they could write what they want, but, they pay for it because people always talk about wich battery perform the best, wich one is more real despite C rating an capacity. In my experience I tried rhino (1300mah 50C) leopard power(1300mah 110C and 1200mah 110C) chnl(1300mah 120C and 1500mah 100C)ovonic(1300mah 120C) and also r line(1300mah 120C) all 6S batteries. Now based on my experience the best battery on this list for performance/cost are 1.chnl 2. leopard power 3. rhino and the most powerfull are the chnl. But the reality when you're flying is that you never reach those high discharge rate, except for few seconds or less. Indeed I can say that I have some 1900kv 6S motors that can suck the lipo like nothing, but, I fly a lot with them. Also the XT60 connector is not that bad for its purpose, and for few seconds nothing would happen to it, I think that about that you're over exagerating saying that it would heat so much to take off during flight.
Great video. Could you possibly do a video on the difference between a low KV motor with less gearing vs a high kv motor with more gearing. After gearing if both setups have the same RPM which one has more torque?
All my big rigs use amss as150 J pull 600amps + through them. Just look at cable rating I use 8 swg 8” uk use xt90 10” up us as150. You’ll also need plugs with spark arrest inbuilt to stop spikes in plug it
I have Wayne Gills C testing device, my experience testing several LIPO at my club that C rating on label and my testing gives normaly half the C number on the LIPO, so on LIPO it say 30C , real C is about 15. Just remember LIPO should be as warm as possible to have a good internal resistance.
this got me thinking....i have a 60C rated battery, the ESC only does 60A max, so that's why i bought this battery for my 1/12 basher so that it never gets overwhelmed. after about 10min of bashing the battery gets just a tiny bit warm to the touch in 10celsius weather. if the real C rating here is actually as you say half of what's specified....then this would explain why a 60C 2200mah battery gets warm throttled with a 60A ESC. does this apply to most battery manufacturers ? or did i just get fooled by the one i bought from
The "C" Rating was the first thing that came to my mind, too. Especially with the cheaper brands like zippy, I would never trust their ratings. And even if a brand battery can actually deliver that much current, it might not make a lot of sense because the capacity is reduced from all the internal heat losses. Basicall, a battery powered system can deliver peak power when the resistance of the load matches the internal resistance of the battery. But that also means by Ohms law, it is only 50% efficient, cutting the effective capacity in half...
Any bigger channels or magazines with a big budget should just test one lipo a week or something. There is hardly anyone getting actual data on the brands of battery and how they perform. I have recently bought a battery that claims to be 6500mah and 110c and it's rubbish. Feels slower than my 5.6ah 50c nanotech and only charged to 6200mah.
That buggy is good for 4-6s. Any 5000mAh 45C 6s pack that can physically fit will rip in that buggy! As for charger, this largely depends on budget. I'm a big fan of the Graupner Polaron series.
also they are kinda not as good after a good 180 cycles.. still will work but internal IR starts to go up... this battery in RC gets worked pretty good and after a while they will puff... always storage it and dont let the cells go below 3.0v.. people in the off road racing charge their 2s at up to 40amps charge and discharge to get the IR down but it hurts the life span of the battery and only last maybe less then 6 months or maybe less or less then a year... CELL tabs on the battery can only squeeze out so much current also so having a good connector and solid solder without cold solder is the best way to go..
What about smaller gauge wire on a battery and putting bigger connectors on the battery, will smaller battery wires effect output? I bought battery for speedruns didn't realize the wire was 10 gauge I normally run 8 gauge wires on my batteries
I have some 2S 450mah 75C batteries. That would mean they are capable of delivering about 30A but they only have 20awg wires on the main connector. Something doesn't seem right. I only use them for a maximum draw of 10A.
Cool, very informative but a 4000mah lipo with 60c continuous would mean 240amps continuous and a decent 7" quad could easily pull 120-160amps burst. Does this mean we would need XT160 connector since XT60 is good enough only for 60A?
Hey Dianko, XT60 is good for 60A continuous. Burst currents can be very high depending on the duration of the burst. At the end of the day heat will tell you how the connector is performing.
Use XT60 on all my cars,as they are only 1/10 and probably pull no more than 50A max, and then in only short bursts (garden rally circuit) and having a standardised set of connectors used in all my vehicles simplifies things. Use same for my planes,but again low power field flyers,not amp eating ducted fans,but agree that if investing that amount of money and time you should go for the best you can get-I would want a plane to fail 'cos of crappy wiring/connectors, it could hurt.
Is there any centralized data gathering that yields adjusted ratings for batteries that prove to be overly optimistic ? Any thoughts on which brands seem reasonable and which appear exaggerated ?
Kinda, Joshua Bardwell has been doing this for fpv quad packs independently. This is the last one he did, links to data and so on in the description: ruclips.net/video/ixxl3zP7T94/видео.html
Hi there I have just subscribed and I need to know about the battery in my XK Detect X380 which is a 11.1v 5400 Mah 3s 20c, and I am wondering if it would be an advantage to put a higher C rated battery pack in it?
just make sure all your connections are solid and put a damn good solder on all your leads I've been running Jets and I've been using xt60 connectors on fan units that pull 96 amps no problem and I've been using 4S 14.8 volt batteries I have not had that one issue it's all about how you solder it and how you connect it up make sure everything is tight that's it it's simple a loose connection produces heat...
Maybe a cooperative could be set up by the RC retailers for a “Standard of testing battery mfg’s products” should be formed and an internet site would show results from their independent testing. And these Battery Mfg’s could then be listed on their Real World Actual outputs. I’m sure Retailers like Raceday Quads, Rotorriot, GetFPV, Fatshark, ETC Other agencies have done similar things to keep manufacturers on the up and up. IT WORKS! Just need a leader to oversee the founding.
for example i bought a 2200mah 3s battery, with 60C rating, but does not say anything about the C rating for charging. when asked, the manufacturer recommends i charge at 1C. isn't this a too wide range? i'd expect a 60C discharge rate battery to be able to sustain a 10% charging rate, meaning 6C
@@RCexplained I tend to err on the safe side a little and charge them at .5C unless i'm 100% on the rating on the label. But that's cause i still remember when 18650's had a HUGE issue with their rated capacities till battery mooch started publishing tons of battery reviews. I don't really see any dodgy rewraps anymore usually haha
@@kasuraga LiIon 18650 and other cells like 20700 and 21700 cannot handle 1C. I suggest you read the OEM datasheet. Most are 1.5a-2a MAX charge. Spec sheets are easily found via google, i.e. "sony VTC6 datasheet." I generally keep it below 1.5a unless I need to recharge an 18650 pack quickly, sometimes I'll push them to 2-3a for the first portion of the charge up to 4v per cell or when they start heating up. The VTC6 is rated at 3a by the manufacturer and thus safe to charge at 3a. The lower "C" rating 18650's like the Sanyo NCR18650GA's max out at a 1.5-2a charge.
Hello. Thank You for very good content as always i have to subscribe 🙂 I have one question. For Traxxas truck Sledge, which comes with two TRX iD connectors. I want to use only one battery pack. 4S or 6S. I got 4600mAh with 35C and there was soldered T-dean. I changed the connector for XT90. Im affraid for soldering connector on ESC so there is a TRX ID connector and i have XT90 - TRX adaptor. I know that better is when i solder off the pair of stock connectors and solder only 2 wires and there place XT90. But i tested yesterday draw via Link app. On the road i achieved 100,9A max and in the grass 113,9A. So... if im counting right, i should solder XT150 or AS150 on ESC and battery packs? Because TRX connector limit is about 60A and XT90 is about 90A. But it was in some specification im not sure which A, connectors can survive really. Traxxas original battery 25C 4S 6700mAh, has 167,5A limit, so im little bit confused about connectors limits. Because some folks really using these 2x4 batteries in 8s X-maxx and im sure that there is a way higher consumption than is specification of TRX iD connector. My question leads to XT90. I have bought few pairs and want to solder also ESC. But will it be enough? These almost 114A i achieved on the grass with stock gearing and with smaller tires than the stock one are. Im ended my tests after 30minutes, it drawn about 3000mAh from the battery pack and connectors were hot. It never happens on my Slash with 3S. Exact this "hot" issue make me think about it again. I watch your videos about KV this, and some other. But can not find any suggestions for real limits of different connector types. I know that motor takes what it want, but yeah in this case it is little bit over the edge when i use one single Traxxas Id or old TRX 4(which i love) or XT90 with adaptor to Traxxas connector. For safe all i should go to XT150 / AS150 and change it also on my ESC, am I right? I think on 4S it is okay, but 6S via one cable and connector, can be an issue. I also plan test 4S battery and do the same measuring. I suppose, there will be a lot lower "A" peak. Sorry for my broken English.
If the connectors you are using are getting hotter than 60C, then I would move up to the next size available. Looking at it from this perspective removes the more technical current capacities. An XT90 will stay under this temperature if you see only 114 peak Amps.
@@RCexplained Thank you so much for this pretty fast response. Your videos are superb :-) One small question for the Traxxas connector. For it is no much comfort zone i think and the heat production and the bottleneck here will be adaptor and stock TRX iD connector on ESC. Remove adaptor and solder XT90 on ESC is the only solution. Current setup is batt with XT90-> adaptor XT90-TRX-> TRX iD connector on ESC.
@@RCexplained Hello. I decided to change all for AS150. Because when bash on 6S its not only short 110+A burst. It can be 2 minutes in the grass. I rather replace for safe also on ESC and on all batteries. I have now only 3x4S and 1x6S so not really high amount of soldering. AS150 seems also to unplug manually easily than XT90, where is some force needed.
I have a shorthand way, of determining the amps rating of a battery pack, by using the posted MAH and c rating. Granted this is not perfect, but will get you in the ballpark of what you need in a particular pack or your needs to find the proper pack. We'll use for this instance a 1500 mah 50C pack, What i do is take the mah and move the decimal left 3 places turning it into amp hours (ah) or in this case 1.5 AH. I now take that 1.5 and times it to the 50C rating (1.5x50), the result is 75 amps, If you have a potential 60-75 amp load, this this battery, out side of any manufacturer misdirection, might work for you. Like I said, it's not perfect, because the C ratings are not yet standardized, but can get you in the ballpark of what you potentially need
Since no matter how much math you do, the manufactures aren't going to change the way they do things, I just buy the highest c rating and mah I can afford ( 100 + c and 8000+ mah) for my 1/5 scale.
The first thing that always comes toy mind is the wire gauge on both the ESC/motor and the battery.. my motor in my Felony is rated at over 3 KW.. and the motor in my DBXL E 2.0 is rated at 7 KW.. there is no way that the wire gauge chosen can support that kind of power.
KW had nothing to do with wire gauge. Amps have something to do with wire gauge. So when you step up from 6S to 8S, in theory your needed wire gauge could go down (of course, thicker wire is less resistance = always better).
@@bramnelissen9106 When you increase voltage in the same setup you ALWAYS INCREASE AMPS with the increased voltage. Running 8s is the exact same thing as running 6s with 33% more throttle available and we all know that more throttle = more volts = more amps. In theory, 8s will draw more current than 6s unless you only pull the trigger on the 8s setup to 75% So an 8s at 75% is exactly the same as 6s full throttle in volts and amps.
@@toolbaggers True, but I did not state you should keep the same setup. With a 400V setup I can run 7kW with an AWG14 (2,5mm²), no issues at all. As I stated before: wire gauge is related to current, and not to power. Increasing the voltage (and choosing the right motor/pinion) you can reduce the current achieving the same power.
I would suggest what I consider a simple(r ?) explanation about the C-rating and the lower recovered energy at higher currents. It is that at higher currents, you have higher losses in the battery internal resistance. Or in other words, using a higher discharge rate, more of the applied charge is lost as heat from the battery rather than running your motor (or tester, for that matter).
in my mind, clearly this is not specified by the manufacturer: how good quality materials are used for the battery, how this impacts the overall quality of the cells and especially what test results for endurance and quality testing they had with their product before marketing it, so that i can do a comparison between different manufacturers before i actually buy different brands to test out on my own expen$e (and this for sure is not a good way to go, as i will not be testing in the same environmental variables as a laboratory does, so results will differ between them a lot => i think this is why manufacturers do not provide transparency, because you as a buyer will not be able to test on your own properly)
C ratings are like Wishes and Hopes but 100C is more than optimistic 🤔 I have a lot of hours on lipos, mostly RC Aircraft, Drones, ECT. I do have some in RC cars too 😁 I really don't think there is that much difference between one Manufacturer or another 🤨 Yeah, I have gotten some good packs and bad ones, form the same manufacturer, 🥺 go figure. Overall I have had better luck with some, but I have some that are still going after 6 years 😲 Brand names and high prices don't guarantee a good battery or that it will meet your expectations. Traxxas batteries that I have cost up to 3x more than another brand I bought. In the car, on the ground, I can't see any real difference in their performance. Ok, I am sure we could test all mine and come to some kind of conclusion, but does it make much difference when I go out and play 🤔
Battery manufactures lie about everything. I charge my cells to 5V and have extra power. It even preheats the battery for these cold days in a sense for for even more additional performance
You're not getting it. The battery manufacturers sell the batts to the middleman like Horizon Hobby as basically raw materials. Spektrum are the ones that put on the fake labels and markets them to you. Just like Coca-Cola doesn't give a shit if you buy their goods from Walmart or McDonalds as they get paid either way. The actual batt manufacturer doesn't give a crap because they all come from the same place anyways!! It's the lying middlemen that needs to differentiate themselves from the other lying middlemen.
@@toolbaggers I thought it is clear that this is a joke. 5V and a lipo cell will burst into flames, thats what I meant by preheating function. OK now when I read this again, a little bit cringey, it was way more funny when I wrote it.
Low C packs have far lower effective capacity than high C packs due to running at consistently lower voltage. Taught me not to be a weight weenie about lipos.
Bottom line: They all lie! It is just a matter of how much. If you buy twice what you need, you should be ok. If the C and/or Ah is increased without increasing the size and/or weight, good chance it is not true.
Excellent - covers a lot of good information - 1) As best I can tell there are only a few LiPo manufacturers - the cells are repackaged as different brands and most don't just fudge C ratings - they lie 2) You mention but don't cover internal resistance, which is the real proof of the pudding for C ratings. If you want to see what real battery C ratings and capacities look like go here - www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?1767093-Battery-Load-Test-Comparisons
Horizon Hobby is an American god! Just give them all your $$$ and buy their "smart" batteries! It's not like they come from the same factory. That is if your cool and worthy!
My first thought when it comes to these LiPo manufacturer's claimed C-rating is one word: OPTIMISM
Looking like Tom Brady and delivering the RC goods like a pristine fade touchdown to the corner. Love your content, better information than I've been able to found anywhere, not simply best of youtube.
Appreciate it!
Great explanation. I never thought of the connector being a limiting factor, but it makes perfect sense. Thank you
You bet!
5:30 that was my mind-blowing question i never got an answer for, so thanks, your 2'nd point there does explain a lot
If you cut a hole in your lipo battery it will ventilate better which will give you longer run times and more power.
Really
@@tommcdonald6371 absolutely!
Wow
@@Todd_G_FPV I tried it myself it had so much power it lit my shed on fire!
@@saltybutsain6348 lol I almost lit my ass on fire from a lipo going up in flames behind my seat on my electric drift cart lol didn't have them secured properly and one got punctured
I can't think of any thing the battery try to hide from me mainly because we the consumer are so smart these days. Our engineering degrees make us know everything, and the RUclips reviews are so thorough.
This is a well known problem between racing and freestyle drone pilots. You said that they could write what they want, but, they pay for it because people always talk about wich battery perform the best, wich one is more real despite C rating an capacity. In my experience I tried rhino (1300mah 50C) leopard power(1300mah 110C and 1200mah 110C) chnl(1300mah 120C and 1500mah 100C)ovonic(1300mah 120C) and also r line(1300mah 120C) all 6S batteries. Now based on my experience the best battery on this list for performance/cost are 1.chnl 2. leopard power 3. rhino and the most powerfull are the chnl. But the reality when you're flying is that you never reach those high discharge rate, except for few seconds or less. Indeed I can say that I have some 1900kv 6S motors that can suck the lipo like nothing, but, I fly a lot with them. Also the XT60 connector is not that bad for its purpose, and for few seconds nothing would happen to it, I think that about that you're over exagerating saying that it would heat so much to take off during flight.
Great video. Could you possibly do a video on the difference between a low KV motor with less gearing vs a high kv motor with more gearing. After gearing if both setups have the same RPM which one has more torque?
Yes, will do this in time.
After watching this thru, I still don't know what lipo manufactures don't want me to know.
real battery performances
It means the c rating is arbitrary from the manufacturer
All my big rigs use amss as150
J pull 600amps + through them. Just look at cable rating I use 8 swg 8” uk use xt90 10” up us as150. You’ll also need plugs with spark arrest inbuilt to stop spikes in plug it
I have Wayne Gills C testing device, my experience testing several LIPO at my club that C rating on label and my testing gives normaly half the C number on the LIPO, so on LIPO it say 30C , real C is about 15. Just remember LIPO should be as warm as possible to have a good internal resistance.
this got me thinking....i have a 60C rated battery, the ESC only does 60A max, so that's why i bought this battery for my 1/12 basher so that it never gets overwhelmed. after about 10min of bashing the battery gets just a tiny bit warm to the touch in 10celsius weather. if the real C rating here is actually as you say half of what's specified....then this would explain why a 60C 2200mah battery gets warm throttled with a 60A ESC. does this apply to most battery manufacturers ? or did i just get fooled by the one i bought from
@@Ris-v4w I mentioned in my reply this is for several (most) LIPO's
love your channel. So much in-depth coverage. thanks!
Glad you enjoy it!
@@RCexplained Thanyou so much my pimp. Excellent videos.
7:06 i was really starting to get anxious right up to this bit just before the message appeared on the screen 😂😂
sameeee bro. i was so happy to see his message on there
I really liked the video, because you DO GO INTO THE STATUS OF FACTORS THAT APPLY TO THE EXPECTANCY OF BUYING WHAT YOU PAID FOR!! 😮😮
Wow very good man! That was really informative and I watched the whole thing you kept it factz and interesting. Bravo 👏
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for the comment Phillip!
Not sure what came to mind but was definitely curious to find out what it is since I’m new to lipos I’ve always used the old 6c nimh packs
If you are use to NiMh, you will love LiPo's!!!
@@RCexplained yeah I’ve been using lipos now for a few months definitely a lot better.
The "C" Rating was the first thing that came to my mind, too. Especially with the cheaper brands like zippy, I would never trust their ratings. And even if a brand battery can actually deliver that much current, it might not make a lot of sense because the capacity is reduced from all the internal heat losses. Basicall, a battery powered system can deliver peak power when the resistance of the load matches the internal resistance of the battery. But that also means by Ohms law, it is only 50% efficient, cutting the effective capacity in half...
Real world experience by flying with your new pack about half the time you calculated and land and measure what's left.
C rating source being essentially "just trust me bro"
I mean obviously c rating being fake/not true ish. But I'm already used to that
Any bigger channels or magazines with a big budget should just test one lipo a week or something. There is hardly anyone getting actual data on the brands of battery and how they perform.
I have recently bought a battery that claims to be 6500mah and 110c and it's rubbish. Feels slower than my 5.6ah 50c nanotech and only charged to 6200mah.
Great info, thanks! Just got a radix 6s team corally. What charger and battery would you recommend? And is the stock xt90 connectors good enough?
That buggy is good for 4-6s. Any 5000mAh 45C 6s pack that can physically fit will rip in that buggy! As for charger, this largely depends on budget. I'm a big fan of the Graupner Polaron series.
GREAT explanation, As I extected how to deliver 40A on jst 😔. I have a battery that is 550 mah 80c but with jst connector.
Thanks for the comment. If you are planning on drawing more then the JST connector is rated for, I would swap it out.
also they are kinda not as good after a good 180 cycles.. still will work but internal IR starts to go up... this battery in RC gets worked pretty good and after a while they will puff... always storage it and dont let the cells go below 3.0v.. people in the off road racing charge their 2s at up to 40amps charge and discharge to get the IR down but it hurts the life span of the battery and only last maybe less then 6 months or maybe less or less then a year... CELL tabs on the battery can only squeeze out so much current also so having a good connector and solid solder without cold solder is the best way to go..
What about smaller gauge wire on a battery and putting bigger connectors on the battery, will smaller battery wires effect output? I bought battery for speedruns didn't realize the wire was 10 gauge I normally run 8 gauge wires on my batteries
Yes, smaller wires falls in to the same category of small connectors. You should be able to see in a data log if voltage drop has improved or not.
Nice informative video dealing with some questions I have had
Thanks for the comment Simon!
I have some 2S 450mah 75C batteries. That would mean they are capable of delivering about 30A but they only have 20awg wires on the main connector. Something doesn't seem right. I only use them for a maximum draw of 10A.
Cool, very informative but a 4000mah lipo with 60c continuous would mean 240amps continuous and a decent 7" quad could easily pull 120-160amps burst. Does this mean we would need XT160 connector since XT60 is good enough only for 60A?
Hey Dianko, XT60 is good for 60A continuous. Burst currents can be very high depending on the duration of the burst. At the end of the day heat will tell you how the connector is performing.
test it on ground and you will see, weak connector makes higher resistance at higher currents, it can glow in seconds at proper current
Use XT60 on all my cars,as they are only 1/10 and probably pull no more than 50A max, and then in only short bursts (garden rally circuit) and having a standardised set of connectors used in all my vehicles simplifies things. Use same for my planes,but again low power field flyers,not amp eating ducted fans,but agree that if investing that amount of money and time you should go for the best you can get-I would want a plane to fail 'cos of crappy wiring/connectors, it could hurt.
How cheap the materials are vs the price tag they put on the finished battery
Is there any centralized data gathering that yields adjusted ratings for batteries
that prove to be overly optimistic ? Any thoughts on which brands seem reasonable
and which appear exaggerated ?
Kinda, Joshua Bardwell has been doing this for fpv quad packs independently. This is the last one he did, links to data and so on in the description:
ruclips.net/video/ixxl3zP7T94/видео.html
Horizon Hobby is an American god! Just give them all your $$$ and buy their "smart" batteries! That is if your cool and worthy!
Hi there I have just subscribed and I need to know about the battery in my XK Detect X380 which is a 11.1v 5400 Mah 3s 20c, and I am wondering if it would be an advantage to put a higher C rated battery pack in it?
Could the xt60 cause worse battery sag if trying to draw too many amps. Iv been wondering that.
Yes, any connector can create a voltage drop across it if pushed too hard.
just make sure all your connections are solid and put a damn good solder on all your leads I've been running Jets and I've been using xt60 connectors on fan units that pull 96 amps no problem and I've been using 4S 14.8 volt batteries I have not had that one issue it's all about how you solder it and how you connect it up make sure everything is tight that's it it's simple a loose connection produces heat...
I used 60a esc and 3100kv brushless motor,how big value c rating best for my rc boat?
As high as possible.
@@RCexplained tq very much for your answer
@@RCexplained are my brusless motor and esc safe if i use 11.1v 3s 40c rating?
Divide advertised C rating by 2
Divide advertised capacity by 1.5
This is accurate
Also use Fs series Panasonic ultra low esr caps there ripple current is better suited
Maybe a cooperative could be set up by the RC retailers for a “Standard of testing battery mfg’s products” should be formed and an internet site would show results from their independent testing. And these Battery Mfg’s could then be listed on their Real World Actual outputs. I’m sure Retailers like Raceday Quads, Rotorriot, GetFPV, Fatshark, ETC Other agencies have done similar things to keep manufacturers on the up and up. IT WORKS! Just need a leader to oversee the founding.
Horizon Hobby is an American god! Just give them all your $$$ and buy their "smart" batteries! That is if your cool and worthy!
@@toolbaggers HH can take their smart batteries and shove them right where the sun doesn't shine.
Still more honest than a McDonald's commercial.
Or mainstream media
My first thought was "Maybe it amount of batary's life cycles...?)"
You have got to be a Navy guy! Thanks gor your service snd your great videos!
Sorry, not a navy guy
I have 6500mah packs that say 6000mah on the cells when I opened it up lol but they always held the 6500mah rating or better
That's great!
for example i bought a 2200mah 3s battery, with 60C rating, but does not say anything about the C rating for charging. when asked, the manufacturer recommends i charge at 1C. isn't this a too wide range? i'd expect a 60C discharge rate battery to be able to sustain a 10% charging rate, meaning 6C
1C is a safe charging rate for all LiPo's.
Can you do a video on charging and what amp rate to charge lipos at
1C unless otherwise specified. 1C for 5000mAh = 5A
@@RCexplained I tend to err on the safe side a little and charge them at .5C unless i'm 100% on the rating on the label. But that's cause i still remember when 18650's had a HUGE issue with their rated capacities till battery mooch started publishing tons of battery reviews. I don't really see any dodgy rewraps anymore usually haha
@@kasuraga LiIon 18650 and other cells like 20700 and 21700 cannot handle 1C. I suggest you read the OEM datasheet. Most are 1.5a-2a MAX charge. Spec sheets are easily found via google, i.e. "sony VTC6 datasheet." I generally keep it below 1.5a unless I need to recharge an 18650 pack quickly, sometimes I'll push them to 2-3a for the first portion of the charge up to 4v per cell or when they start heating up. The VTC6 is rated at 3a by the manufacturer and thus safe to charge at 3a. The lower "C" rating 18650's like the Sanyo NCR18650GA's max out at a 1.5-2a charge.
Hello. Thank You for very good content as always i have to subscribe 🙂
I have one question. For Traxxas truck Sledge, which comes with two TRX iD connectors. I want to use only one battery pack. 4S or 6S.
I got 4600mAh with 35C and there was soldered T-dean. I changed the connector for XT90. Im affraid for soldering connector on ESC so there is a TRX ID connector and i have XT90 - TRX adaptor.
I know that better is when i solder off the pair of stock connectors and solder only 2 wires and there place XT90.
But i tested yesterday draw via Link app. On the road i achieved 100,9A max and in the grass 113,9A. So... if im counting right, i should solder XT150 or AS150 on ESC and battery packs?
Because TRX connector limit is about 60A and XT90 is about 90A. But it was in some specification im not sure which A, connectors can survive really. Traxxas original battery 25C 4S 6700mAh, has 167,5A limit, so im little bit confused about connectors limits. Because some folks really using these 2x4 batteries in 8s X-maxx and im sure that there is a way higher consumption than is specification of TRX iD connector. My question leads to XT90. I have bought few pairs and want to solder also ESC. But will it be enough? These almost 114A i achieved on the grass with stock gearing and with smaller tires than the stock one are.
Im ended my tests after 30minutes, it drawn about 3000mAh from the battery pack and connectors were hot. It never happens on my Slash with 3S.
Exact this "hot" issue make me think about it again. I watch your videos about KV this, and some other. But can not find any suggestions for real limits of different connector types.
I know that motor takes what it want, but yeah in this case it is little bit over the edge when i use one single Traxxas Id or old TRX 4(which i love) or XT90 with adaptor to Traxxas connector.
For safe all i should go to XT150 / AS150 and change it also on my ESC, am I right? I think on 4S it is okay, but 6S via one cable and connector, can be an issue. I also plan test 4S battery and do the same measuring. I suppose, there will be a lot lower "A" peak.
Sorry for my broken English.
If the connectors you are using are getting hotter than 60C, then I would move up to the next size available. Looking at it from this perspective removes the more technical current capacities. An XT90 will stay under this temperature if you see only 114 peak Amps.
@@RCexplained Thank you so much for this pretty fast response. Your videos are superb :-) One small question for the Traxxas connector. For it is no much comfort zone i think and the heat production and the bottleneck here will be adaptor and stock TRX iD connector on ESC. Remove adaptor and solder XT90 on ESC is the only solution. Current setup is batt with XT90-> adaptor XT90-TRX-> TRX iD connector on ESC.
I would remove the adapter. Adapters are not helpful for performance. Only convenience.
@@RCexplained Hello. I decided to change all for AS150. Because when bash on 6S its not only short 110+A burst. It can be 2 minutes in the grass. I rather replace for safe also on ESC and on all batteries. I have now only 3x4S and 1x6S so not really high amount of soldering. AS150 seems also to unplug manually easily than XT90, where is some force needed.
I have a shorthand way, of determining the amps rating of a battery pack, by using the posted MAH and c rating. Granted this is not perfect, but will get you in the ballpark of what you need in a particular pack or your needs to find the proper pack. We'll use for this instance a 1500 mah 50C pack, What i do is take the mah and move the decimal left 3 places turning it into amp hours (ah) or in this case 1.5 AH. I now take that 1.5 and times it to the 50C rating (1.5x50), the result is 75 amps, If you have a potential 60-75 amp load, this this battery, out side of any manufacturer misdirection, might work for you. Like I said, it's not perfect, because the C ratings are not yet standardized, but can get you in the ballpark of what you potentially need
So what connectors are the best?
It depends on the application.
@@RCexplained 6s esc trucks surface dual lipos mainly 3/4s 5000mah 50c 🤔 thank you
I would use 5mm bullets absolute minimum
How much do those chargers cost that you can do such a thing with it?
I don't remember the cost of the charger in the video. Not sure they even make it any more.
They are all made by one or 2 companies and sold under many names, so nothing wrong with buying cheaper brands
I think they don't want us to know what it cost them to manufacture the battery vs MSRP
For sure!
Since no matter how much math you do, the manufactures aren't going to change the way they do things, I just buy the highest c rating and mah I can afford ( 100 + c and 8000+ mah) for my 1/5 scale.
The first thing that always comes toy mind is the wire gauge on both the ESC/motor and the battery.. my motor in my Felony is rated at over 3 KW.. and the motor in my DBXL E 2.0 is rated at 7 KW.. there is no way that the wire gauge chosen can support that kind of power.
KW had nothing to do with wire gauge. Amps have something to do with wire gauge. So when you step up from 6S to 8S, in theory your needed wire gauge could go down (of course, thicker wire is less resistance = always better).
@@bramnelissen9106 When you increase voltage in the same setup you ALWAYS INCREASE AMPS with the increased voltage. Running 8s is the exact same thing as running 6s with 33% more throttle available and we all know that more throttle = more volts = more amps.
In theory, 8s will draw more current than 6s unless you only pull the trigger on the 8s setup to 75%
So an 8s at 75% is exactly the same as 6s full throttle in volts and amps.
@@toolbaggers True, but I did not state you should keep the same setup. With a 400V setup I can run 7kW with an AWG14 (2,5mm²), no issues at all.
As I stated before: wire gauge is related to current, and not to power. Increasing the voltage (and choosing the right motor/pinion) you can reduce the current achieving the same power.
Interesting.
This is why I run xt90s... also easier to use
Yes!
why does my lipo hiss at at me ,and get all puffed up! after i fly the race quad?
Sounds like it is ready to explode
I would suggest what I consider a simple(r ?) explanation about the C-rating and the lower recovered energy at higher currents. It is that at higher currents, you have higher losses in the battery internal resistance. Or in other words, using a higher discharge rate, more of the applied charge is lost as heat from the battery rather than running your motor (or tester, for that matter).
It's primarily I squared R losses in the entire circuit, but depends how in depth you want to get to explain "Higher draw - less efficient"
C rating is a myth
A fire 🔥hazard in some cases.
Always a fire hazard and should be treated as such at all times.
Thank you .I dub thee rc dude
Thanks for the comment Jeffrey!
they tell me that taping the lipo to the end of a harpoon isnt a good idea
I guess it depends on which end you tape it to
in my mind, clearly this is not specified by the manufacturer: how good quality materials are used for the battery, how this impacts the overall quality of the cells and especially what test results for endurance and quality testing they had with their product before marketing it, so that i can do a comparison between different manufacturers before i actually buy different brands to test out on my own expen$e (and this for sure is not a good way to go, as i will not be testing in the same environmental variables as a laboratory does, so results will differ between them a lot => i think this is why manufacturers do not provide transparency, because you as a buyer will not be able to test on your own properly)
that's right!
C ratings are like Wishes and Hopes but 100C is more than optimistic 🤔
I have a lot of hours on lipos, mostly RC Aircraft, Drones, ECT. I do have some in RC cars too 😁
I really don't think there is that much difference between one Manufacturer or another 🤨
Yeah, I have gotten some good packs and bad ones, form the same manufacturer, 🥺 go figure.
Overall I have had better luck with some, but I have some that are still going after 6 years 😲
Brand names and high prices don't guarantee a good battery or that it will meet your expectations.
Traxxas batteries that I have cost up to 3x more than another brand I bought. In the car, on the ground, I can't see any real difference in their performance.
Ok, I am sure we could test all mine and come to some kind of conclusion, but does it make much difference when I go out and play 🤔
Inconsistent size\density
Battery manufactures lie about everything. I charge my cells to 5V and have extra power. It even preheats the battery for these cold days in a sense for for even more additional performance
You're not getting it. The battery manufacturers sell the batts to the middleman like Horizon Hobby as basically raw materials. Spektrum are the ones that put on the fake labels and markets them to you.
Just like Coca-Cola doesn't give a shit if you buy their goods from Walmart or McDonalds as they get paid either way. The actual batt manufacturer doesn't give a crap because they all come from the same place anyways!! It's the lying middlemen that needs to differentiate themselves from the other lying middlemen.
so you're claiming to charge a lipo cell to 5v. ooooook
@@toolbaggers I thought it is clear that this is a joke. 5V and a lipo cell will burst into flames, thats what I meant by preheating function. OK now when I read this again, a little bit cringey, it was way more funny when I wrote it.
Low C packs have far lower effective capacity than high C packs due to running at consistently lower voltage. Taught me not to be a weight weenie about lipos.
C rating?
Bottom line: They all lie! It is just a matter of how much. If you buy twice what you need, you should be ok. If the C and/or Ah is increased without increasing the size and/or weight, good chance it is not true.
Excellent - covers a lot of good information - 1) As best I can tell there are only a few LiPo manufacturers - the cells are repackaged as different brands and most don't just fudge C ratings - they lie 2) You mention but don't cover internal resistance, which is the real proof of the pudding for C ratings. If you want to see what real battery C ratings and capacities look like go here -
www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?1767093-Battery-Load-Test-Comparisons
C rating
First thought... How shoddy is the construction and attention to detail that actually comes out of the factory.
You see me every day because we look exactly the same except I'm smiling and I don't have a ring on my finger.
all info on the batteries are incorrect. no ideal test data can be replycated.
That all batteries come out of the same factory. No difference at all.
No! The difference is service! Our batteries are "smart" for your dumb asses.
- Horizon Hobby
So wrong!
Guns N Roses 2nd album.... LIES,LIES,LIES
I know not all MFG’s lie about this but definitely the cheaper ones do.
Lololololol
Made in China.
Using American standards.
Horizon Hobby is an American god! Just give them all your $$$ and buy their "smart" batteries! It's not like they come from the same factory. That is if your cool and worthy!
Better than made in usa. same quality, 10 times the price. you have to pay extra for the racism tax.