Never thought about c rating making a huge difference. I have a 6s lipo 100c 6500 mah battery, that i use in my arrma typhon. Before i used 2 3s 5000mah battery packs with 50c, and what im noticing with the higher c rating is that the acceleration is more aggressive and that its actually popping wheelies under hard acceleration and that my tires seem to balloon more something that the 50c rating didnt do.😳
how do you know the lower advertised c rated battery doesnt have a higher c rating than the battery with a higher advertised c rating .(you dont unless you can measure the ir of each, you get what you pay for....
@@BR-ef2ji try several brands , there are always signs or quality or lack there of. If you’re looking for a high C rating and the battery has anything less than 10 awg wire leads , you should probably avoid them. If they battery states a constant discharge rate above a 60 amps and has deans plugs , you should be skeptical. As far as lipo batteries go these days , if you think yoy get what you pay for and base quality on price then I would Guarantee you’re getting screwed
ya i agree do your homework. Don't buy graphene lipos unless you're a racer need it, you wont see much improvement. I like ro run smc lipos a good balance of price vs performance unlike my max amp batterys lol a little pricey
A further confusion of the C-rating system is that it's relative to the capacity. So a 10 C battery with 2 Ah storage can deliver 20 amps, but a 200 mAh needs to be 100 C to give the same current.
Great information sir I am going to make fastest rc car using emax drone motor and 30amp ESC I am going to put huge load on my motor and ESC and going to use 2200mah 40c 4s lipo will it damage my components? Please reaply
Great explanation. This is the same thing I was told a while back. I bought a arrma granite voltage for my son and I had 2 5000mah 2s lipo’s at 80c I wanted to put in his truck. Some other channel on RUclips is telling people you will burn up your esc and motor. I knew what he was saying made no sense.
I had two HRB 3S 6Amps 50c lipos connected in series to make it 6S which both eventually became a 2S because the end of the positive cable and balance cable got so hot that it lost connectivity to the lipo itself. I wasn't able to solder it back on but flattened/squeezed it as tight as possible with pliers then use hot plastic glue to keep it in place then duct tape. Btw, T-plugs or Deans plug is not good for 6S. I would prefer a single 6S battery if possible. Sometimes, I connect batteries in parallel to put less stress on the batteries but motor works harder due to heavier car. Overall, its good to get good electronics and batteries.
Somewhat out of the box question. The application is 1/10 RC Car 4300kv motor 60A ESC. Say if I have a 8000 mAh 110C battery (unsure peak or continuous C). Would the logic follow that I could conceivably still get a decent runtime from the high mAh battery from its storage charge rather than full charge. Then you could always keep the lipo at storage charge if the purpose is just a weekend 5-10 bash with your kid.
Thanks for the handy information. Recently the battery tabs located on the inside of the hard lipo cases have misaligned and now my charger will not charge these packs because it doesn't recognise them as being plugged in. This has happened with two hobbystar and three smc hardpacks. The only brand that seems immune to this lack in quality control is Turnigy green graphene packs or the older black graphene ones. Those packs mentioned above were purchased during autumn and both manufacturers said i cannot return them for warranty. If you could assist on a DIY method of repair...many thanks. I been in the hobby for maybe 3 or 4 years, securing, cleaning and maintenance of these packs has been of the highest priority, yet the majority still fail.
Generally speaking going with a higher c rating is better. Sure most manufacturers of lipo’s are exaggerating the c rating but if for example my rc calls for at least 25c rating I will run 50 or more on the c rating. Right now I run an 80c 2s in my sons Granite voltage truck with no issues.
i broke already 3 Brandnew Esc I dont know the problem bat it is always shutdown and not working anymore. mylipo is 3s 2200 mah 60c and brandnew. i buy 3 esc and all of that esc is burn and cant controll what do you think is the problem? now i buy againn esc120 amp 😥
Ok..so just bought a set of 3s 9000mah 100c lipo packs. My question is would be too much for my Arrma kraton 6s? The Esc is stock as well as the motor and it can connect 1 6s pack or 2 3s packs in series. Will the 2 9000mah 100c packs in series burn up the Esc? Most people using 2 packs go with 50c packs. I got these packs to use in my 3s rigs but they're too big but if I can use them in my 6s rigs ,I'll keep them. Any info is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
my Esc is alwasy have shortcrt i dont know why. my lipo is brand new and itis 60c rating. but i have feeling thats the main problem is the battery. i left if over charge.
Personal pet theory: FPV drone racing cells (1000-1800mah) are the highest power to weight consumer cells you can buy. I reckon the demand of FPV racers (bottlenecked by the lipos, OSDs to provide live telemetry etc) are such that this is where manufacturers have had to work hardest to deliver.
I like all your videos with good reasonings. But there are blind spots in your knowledge. The higher and higher-C packs are constructed with thinner and thinner electrode lithium layer to increase surface area, but the electrolyte jel coating and insulation layer can not go down thinner and thinner indefinitely. The result is that the higher-C packs have lower energy density. Higher C packs are way heavier than low C packs even if they store the same amount of fuel(lithium). If your application is compete for endurance in the air, the extra weight with high C packs is going to reduce your flight time.
I have an extra 300 plane that supports 3200mah 30-40 C and i have 3 batteries of 3200mah 60C You think something can happen to the esc or more C is better?
This was great thanks, but it doesn’t apply to traxxas correct? Because they only recommend traxxas batteries. Like for my new Hoss I have a traxxas 3S 4000 25C battery.
Thanks for the comment. It does apply to Traxxas vehicles too. Traxxas makes certain that the C rating of their packs will always meet the minimum requirements for their power systems. Some battery manufactures can rate packs at 200C but this doesn't mean it is accurate!
Hell yes bro. The higher the better. Definitely in boats. Always get the highest c rating you can find and throw out those deans connectors. Thanks for your great knowledge you share.
Hey do you mean the highest c rating of lipo that you can get or highest of the salers recommendation such as 25 - 40 and you get the 40 or do you mean throw a 100c on a 18amp ecs?
If I ran an ESC with a 360A Burst current off an 8Ah LiPo with a 150C Rating (meaning 1200A of continuous current assuming I’ve done my maths correct) then would I be right in thinking that it would mean that the battery would only be loaded at 30% of its maximum capability?
Hey bro, I know I'm lil bit late but I hope you will answer my question! I'm currently working on a rc plane and the electric components making me confused! I'm using 2200mah 4s 40c/80c battery and my brushless motor requires almost 50amps to perform for a specific thrust. But my battery almost deliver 88amps. So does it affect my brushless motor efficiency? Like it's more than my motor requires! I'm classifying 88amps by 40C.
I know I am a bit late, still hoping you'll see this. I've been running 5200 mAh / 45C batteries, now I'm thinking of purchasing 6000 mAh / 80C batteries. Will this cause any problems ?
Gauge and Current is not the only part of the equation of whether it can work or not. The missing variable is length of wire. Current flowing in a wire produces heat. As long as the heat can be dissipated, a wire will handle any amount of current. If the XT90 exceeds its max temp threshold at 90+A continuous, 200A will destroy the connector in time. What typically happens is the connector de-solders and opens the circuit. This is very dangerous.
Hi, I recently found your videos and found them to be very informative. I've got a bit of a quandry. I've been setting up an RC plane, and I have an ESC that is rated for 40 amps continuous, and 60 amps peak current. I had to change the motor from the one that was originally specified, and chose one with the same size and KV rating as specified, but at full power according to my telemetry I am pulling 48 amps. Am I fine running this ESC with this motor temporarily at reduced power to avoid going over the 40 amp continuous rating while I get a new ESC in, or do I need to ground the plane until I get a bigger ESC or smaller motor?
The ultimate deciding factor is going to be the temperature that the ESC is operating at. If your ESC is operating within max temp specification and ripple voltage is low, risk would also be low. Now considering this is a plane, I would not want to risk damaging the airplane if for some reason the ESC were to quit. This could be very costly for what its worth. My recommendation is to wait until the correct component can be used, it's not worth the risk.
@@RCexplained Thanks for the insight. The ESC Telemetry does include temperature, so I'll keep an eye on it while flying, and I have a meter I can use to check ripple voltage. I'm not concerned about damaging the plane, it's 3D printed and worth maybe $30 in filament and I plan on building a new one soon anyway since I've now got the techniques for assembly down.
@@RCexplained Update: I did some testing and was okay with the ESC temperature I was reaching after a full pack at the full (reduced) power setting that I had set up, though then I was given different props and ended up propping down from an 11x6 to an 11x4. Considering the plane is not meant for speed and I tend to fly in smaller areas, I tested those and am now pulling a max of 36 amps at full (unrestricted) power, and am very happy with the result. Thanks again for answering my question and I look forward to the video on choosing a power system for an RC aircraft from start to finish.
I noticed in our Losi Mini B the 650 mah 20c 2s runs longer than the 800 mah 50c 2s. We had like 3 different MiniBs running for 3 hours switching batts every hour for the 20c and every 45 minutes with the 50c. So In this case maybe lower is better?
Thanks for the comment. Higher C rating is always better otherwise there is a problem elsewhere. If you are looking for increased run time you require higher capacity batteries. The fact that your example has over 20% increase in capacity and over 20% decrease in run time doesn't add up. Perhaps your packs rating are incorrect.
The problem with the C rating of any battery is it is a falsified document there is no standard that the battery makers have to use to come up with that C rating. Hence they can throw whatever number they want on that battery pack give you an example look up RC groups they have actually tested the C rating of multiple battery packs and a SMC pack had the highest consistency Rady of any battery that ever tested and it was only a 35C pack yet the pack was rated for I think 50 consistent and 101st or something like that, but that's still the problem. There is no standard. These manufactures have to wait here too and they can put whatever number they want on that pack now some battery packs are better than others. I have personally had an SPC battery that I could not run in anything not even a 1/10 Traxxas slash Ultimate because it would get hot now out of one other venom pack for 2S venom packs that I ran as 24 ass packs for a buggy and one Trinity, four ass pack. None of my other packs have ever even got slightly worn out but it's trial and error if the pack gets hot, do not run it in that vehicle find it easier vehicle to run it in if the pack doesn't get hot then it's fine it's able to pull the power it needs
im looking for high mah/ c rating lipos for 4s speedrun 1/8, rc buggy. reached 118mph but i think lipo is holding me back which is 6000mah, 70c/140c. voltage dropped. data logs show over 300amps. might have to go parralell.
Congrats, 118mph on 4s is amazing! If you have the room, running 2 packs in parallel will help with voltage sag significantly. It would also help the lifespan of your packs.
Thanks for the help as always, also was just enlightened about connectors, I have three 6s rigs all with deans, I’ve gotten away with that for ahile but one of my esc doesn’t have throttle, should I blame my connectors
@@RCexplained sorry I was being very vague haha, I have a hobbywing max8 it’s worked fine a few times, and my others with the same are doing just fine, but my last run it cut out and now doesn’t seem to work, won’t even count cells, but the fan still turns on and there’s still a light, pretty sure it’s shot, rly just looking for a diagnosis, using deans, also my esc is 150amp and my batteries are x2 4200mah 30c 3s. LIFE batteries so technically under spec but these batteries work fine on my other truck same system but don’t wanna make a mistake again, also the esc over heats just being plugged in for a minute, is it possible I ruined the capacitors by batteries, Also all of this is short runs in extremely cold temperatures so doubt it coulda got too overheated ONE More thing haha The run before I left 1 battery plugged in on the 15 minute ride home, also my bad haha, You think any of these woulda done it ?
@@RCexplained one more small detain lol, these are all hpi esc pretty much rebranded hobbywing, all from Jennys rc a eBay kit breaker, all esc are the same model but the one that broke I noticed came with a slightly weaker fan, I wonder if there are any other differences, because my other two are just fine with low temps
60C is high for today's standards. An accurate 60C is very high and rather unlikely for most packs. Pick c rating not just by a number but a reputation.
See..we all need a c rating meter which does not exist. A couple of old school batts with good reputations may advertise real specs. 90% of the over the counter batteries lie about those numbers. We need a universal way to read crating
The C rating has to do with the internal resistance of the battery. We can measure that quite easily, but I'm not sure how it can be converted to an actual C rating.
I like to run 2-2.5 times the amount of required C rating in my planes. For my geared down and brushed crawlers, give me the cheapest 2200mah 30c 3s lipo and it'll last for years lol
This guy on another channel just said c rating makes no difference. He's using cheap batteries . I told him he doesn't know what he's taking about. Us racers have to have a big dump
Hello, is the point he is trying to make related to c ratings vs reality? Many manufactures use c ratings as a sales tactic as you probably already know. If he is saying true c rating which is inversely proportional to internal resistance of a battery, that would be incorrect and misinformed.
Very helpful! It was exactly what I wanted to know and no nonsense!! perfect.
Gald it helped!
this video just came out at the perfect moment for me, really appreciate it, thanks!!
Perfect!
Never thought about c rating making a huge difference. I have a 6s lipo 100c 6500 mah battery, that i use in my arrma typhon. Before i used 2 3s 5000mah battery packs with 50c, and what im noticing with the higher c rating is that the acceleration is more aggressive and that its actually popping wheelies under hard acceleration and that my tires seem to balloon more something that the 50c rating didnt do.😳
not all batterys are created equal, and c ratings can be very overrated
@@BR-ef2ji all the more reason to get a c rating that is as high as possible
how do you know the lower advertised c rated battery doesnt have a higher c rating than the battery with a higher advertised c rating .(you dont unless you can measure the ir of each, you get what you pay for....
@@BR-ef2ji try several brands , there are always signs or quality or lack there of. If you’re looking for a high C rating and the battery has anything less than 10 awg wire leads , you should probably avoid them. If they battery states a constant discharge rate above a 60 amps and has deans plugs , you should be skeptical. As far as lipo batteries go these days , if you think yoy get what you pay for and base quality on price then I would Guarantee you’re getting screwed
ya i agree do your homework. Don't buy graphene lipos unless you're a racer need it, you wont see much improvement. I like ro run smc lipos a good balance of price vs performance unlike my max amp batterys lol a little pricey
A further confusion of the C-rating system is that it's relative to the capacity. So a 10 C battery with 2 Ah storage can deliver 20 amps, but a 200 mAh needs to be 100 C to give the same current.
That is correct!
What's the difference in graphene?
Great information sir I am going to make fastest rc car using emax drone motor and 30amp ESC I am going to put huge load on my motor and ESC and going to use 2200mah 40c 4s lipo will it damage my components? Please reaply
If you put a huge enough load on your power system, it can fail.
Great explanation. This is the same thing I was told a while back. I bought a arrma granite voltage for my son and I had 2 5000mah 2s lipo’s at 80c I wanted to put in his truck. Some other channel on RUclips is telling people you will burn up your esc and motor. I knew what he was saying made no sense.
Thanks for sharing!
i tend to long life time battery/play. would u explain the settings/ur recommendation battery, motor, esc/ flight controller, body/frame etc. thanks
Great video! Very informative. Subscriber now!
Thanks and welcome!
Great videos! thanks! Does this apply to Brushed motors too?
Yes it does
I had two HRB 3S 6Amps 50c lipos connected in series to make it 6S which both eventually became a 2S because the end of the positive cable and balance cable got so hot that it lost connectivity to the lipo itself. I wasn't able to solder it back on but flattened/squeezed it as tight as possible with pliers then use hot plastic glue to keep it in place then duct tape. Btw, T-plugs or Deans plug is not good for 6S. I would prefer a single 6S battery if possible. Sometimes, I connect batteries in parallel to put less stress on the batteries but motor works harder due to heavier car. Overall, its good to get good electronics and batteries.
My drag racer homeboy was telling me that the higher C rating will preform better as well.
Your buddy is correct!
Yh it does higher mah as well if you want more torque
@@racingrivals8934 I didn’t know that- I thought it ment it would last longer 🤦🏻♂️ this is great information 🤝👍
Somewhat out of the box question. The application is 1/10 RC Car 4300kv motor 60A ESC.
Say if I have a 8000 mAh 110C battery (unsure peak or continuous C). Would the logic follow that I could conceivably still get a decent runtime from the high mAh battery from its storage charge rather than full charge. Then you could always keep the lipo at storage charge if the purpose is just a weekend 5-10 bash with your kid.
Very good explanation!!!!1
Glad you think so!
You right!! 👍Nice video 👌
Thank you
Thanks for the handy information. Recently the battery tabs located on the inside of the hard lipo cases have misaligned and now my charger will not charge these packs because it doesn't recognise them as being plugged in. This has happened with two hobbystar and three smc hardpacks. The only brand that seems immune to this lack in quality control is Turnigy green graphene packs or the older black graphene ones. Those packs mentioned above were purchased during autumn and both manufacturers said i cannot return them for warranty. If you could assist on a DIY method of repair...many thanks. I been in the hobby for maybe 3 or 4 years, securing, cleaning and maintenance of these packs has been of the highest priority, yet the majority still fail.
Hi Vinny, I'm unsure of a DIY for this issue. I haven't come across this before either but rarely use hard case LiPo's.
Thanks a lot for all the videos.
So nice of you
Get the C-rating you need. And do not believe al those high C-ratings.
Generally speaking going with a higher c rating is better. Sure most manufacturers of lipo’s are exaggerating the c rating but if for example my rc calls for at least 25c rating I will run 50 or more on the c rating. Right now I run an 80c 2s in my sons Granite voltage truck with no issues.
Can I replace 3.7v 1200mah 25c battery for 3.7v 1100mah 15c battery ? 🥲
Thanks for making and sharing mate 👍😎🤝
You bet!
i broke already 3 Brandnew Esc I dont know the problem bat it is always shutdown and not working anymore. mylipo is 3s 2200 mah 60c and brandnew. i buy 3 esc and all of that esc is burn and cant controll what do you think is the problem? now i buy againn esc120 amp 😥
Ok..so just bought a set of 3s 9000mah 100c lipo packs. My question is would be too much for my Arrma kraton 6s? The Esc is stock as well as the motor and it can connect 1 6s pack or 2 3s packs in series. Will the 2 9000mah 100c packs in series burn up the Esc? Most people using 2 packs go with 50c packs. I got these packs to use in my 3s rigs but they're too big but if I can use them in my 6s rigs ,I'll keep them. Any info is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
You should buy the ESC when you know how big a load your motor have at its max?
my Esc is alwasy have shortcrt i dont know why. my lipo is brand new and itis 60c rating. but i have feeling thats the main problem is the battery. i left if over charge.
What c rating n mah battery would you recommend for a kaiju 4s, 6s truck? Need help
2:12 so are you saying that a high C rated battery reduces the the possibility of battery voltage sag under heavy load?
Yes. Larger capacity battery packs will also reduce voltage sag. You can't eliminate voltage sag though.
@@RCexplained thank you for all this useful information.
Personal pet theory: FPV drone racing cells (1000-1800mah) are the highest power to weight consumer cells you can buy. I reckon the demand of FPV racers (bottlenecked by the lipos, OSDs to provide live telemetry etc) are such that this is where manufacturers have had to work hardest to deliver.
absolutely!
I like all your videos with good reasonings. But there are blind spots in your knowledge. The higher and higher-C packs are constructed with thinner and thinner electrode lithium layer to increase surface area, but the electrolyte jel coating and insulation layer can not go down thinner and thinner indefinitely. The result is that the higher-C packs have lower energy density. Higher C packs are way heavier than low C packs even if they store the same amount of fuel(lithium). If your application is compete for endurance in the air, the extra weight with high C packs is going to reduce your flight time.
I have an extra 300 plane that supports 3200mah 30-40 C and i have 3 batteries of 3200mah 60C
You think something can happen to the esc or more C is better?
Thanks for your earlier reply! What do you think of Zop Power batteries! Have you tried them especially on an Xmaxx..?
I have never used them before.
This was great thanks, but it doesn’t apply to traxxas correct? Because they only recommend traxxas batteries. Like for my new Hoss I have a traxxas 3S 4000 25C battery.
Thanks for the comment. It does apply to Traxxas vehicles too. Traxxas makes certain that the C rating of their packs will always meet the minimum requirements for their power systems. Some battery manufactures can rate packs at 200C but this doesn't mean it is accurate!
Hell yes bro. The higher the better. Definitely in boats. Always get the highest c rating you can find and throw out those deans connectors. Thanks for your great knowledge you share.
That's right, thanks for the comment!
Hey do you mean the highest c rating of lipo that you can get or highest of the salers recommendation such as 25 - 40 and you get the 40 or do you mean throw a 100c on a 18amp ecs?
You want your battery to be able to deliver an infinite amount of power in an ideal power system. This means the highest true C rating.
I have a 60c battery but im afraid to connect it to my 40A esc because of the arcing
Thank you this was very helpfull
High C rating can apply what minimum esc amp?
If I ran an ESC with a 360A Burst current off an 8Ah LiPo with a 150C Rating (meaning 1200A of continuous current assuming I’ve done my maths correct) then would I be right in thinking that it would mean that the battery would only be loaded at 30% of its maximum capability?
Hey bro, I know I'm lil bit late but I hope you will answer my question! I'm currently working on a rc plane and the electric components making me confused! I'm using 2200mah 4s 40c/80c battery and my brushless motor requires almost 50amps to perform for a specific thrust. But my battery almost deliver 88amps. So does it affect my brushless motor efficiency? Like it's more than my motor requires! I'm classifying 88amps by 40C.
It is required for the battery to be able to deliver more than what the motor and esc can deliver.
Good info👍
Thank you Patrick
I know I am a bit late, still hoping you'll see this. I've been running 5200 mAh / 45C batteries, now I'm thinking of purchasing 6000 mAh / 80C batteries. Will this cause any problems ?
When running lipos in series, do you combine the c rating and mah?
No voltage adds only.
So lower c ratting make esc fail? It mean for example in rc helicopter i use lower c rate, then the esc fail and make a crash?
No, it's not that simple. High Ripple Voltage can make an esc fail.
can a 12 gauge wire actually handle 200 amps? if an xt90 can only handle 90 amps and your battery discharges 200 amps wouldnt that fry the connector?
Gauge and Current is not the only part of the equation of whether it can work or not. The missing variable is length of wire. Current flowing in a wire produces heat. As long as the heat can be dissipated, a wire will handle any amount of current.
If the XT90 exceeds its max temp threshold at 90+A continuous, 200A will destroy the connector in time. What typically happens is the connector de-solders and opens the circuit. This is very dangerous.
What if you're running two lipos in series? Would it double the amp output?
No
Hi, I recently found your videos and found them to be very informative. I've got a bit of a quandry. I've been setting up an RC plane, and I have an ESC that is rated for 40 amps continuous, and 60 amps peak current. I had to change the motor from the one that was originally specified, and chose one with the same size and KV rating as specified, but at full power according to my telemetry I am pulling 48 amps. Am I fine running this ESC with this motor temporarily at reduced power to avoid going over the 40 amp continuous rating while I get a new ESC in, or do I need to ground the plane until I get a bigger ESC or smaller motor?
The ultimate deciding factor is going to be the temperature that the ESC is operating at. If your ESC is operating within max temp specification and ripple voltage is low, risk would also be low. Now considering this is a plane, I would not want to risk damaging the airplane if for some reason the ESC were to quit. This could be very costly for what its worth. My recommendation is to wait until the correct component can be used, it's not worth the risk.
@@RCexplained Thanks for the insight. The ESC Telemetry does include temperature, so I'll keep an eye on it while flying, and I have a meter I can use to check ripple voltage. I'm not concerned about damaging the plane, it's 3D printed and worth maybe $30 in filament and I plan on building a new one soon anyway since I've now got the techniques for assembly down.
@@RCexplained Update: I did some testing and was okay with the ESC temperature I was reaching after a full pack at the full (reduced) power setting that I had set up, though then I was given different props and ended up propping down from an 11x6 to an 11x4. Considering the plane is not meant for speed and I tend to fly in smaller areas, I tested those and am now pulling a max of 36 amps at full (unrestricted) power, and am very happy with the result. Thanks again for answering my question and I look forward to the video on choosing a power system for an RC aircraft from start to finish.
Thanks for the update. Glad that the prop change was able to satisfy your requirements.
Will a 150C 3s lipo 8000mah battery burn a 80A ESC?
Whether or not the esc burns out has nothing to do with the c rating and capacity of the battery.
I noticed in our Losi Mini B the 650 mah 20c 2s runs longer than the 800 mah 50c 2s.
We had like 3 different MiniBs running for 3 hours switching batts every hour for the 20c and every 45 minutes with the 50c.
So In this case maybe lower is better?
Thanks for the comment. Higher C rating is always better otherwise there is a problem elsewhere. If you are looking for increased run time you require higher capacity batteries. The fact that your example has over 20% increase in capacity and over 20% decrease in run time doesn't add up. Perhaps your packs rating are incorrect.
@@RCexplained yeah we were confused too lol
My 2300 3s 30c runs a lot longer run time then my 100c battery
The problem with the C rating of any battery is it is a falsified document there is no standard that the battery makers have to use to come up with that C rating. Hence they can throw whatever number they want on that battery pack give you an example look up RC groups they have actually tested the C rating of multiple battery packs and a SMC pack had the highest consistency Rady of any battery that ever tested and it was only a 35C pack yet the pack was rated for I think 50 consistent and 101st or something like that, but that's still the problem. There is no standard. These manufactures have to wait here too and they can put whatever number they want on that pack now some battery packs are better than others. I have personally had an SPC battery that I could not run in anything not even a 1/10 Traxxas slash Ultimate because it would get hot now out of one other venom pack for 2S venom packs that I ran as 24 ass packs for a buggy and one Trinity, four ass pack. None of my other packs have ever even got slightly worn out but it's trial and error if the pack gets hot, do not run it in that vehicle find it easier vehicle to run it in if the pack doesn't get hot then it's fine it's able to pull the power it needs
im looking for high mah/ c rating lipos for 4s speedrun 1/8, rc buggy.
reached 118mph but i think lipo is holding me back which is 6000mah, 70c/140c. voltage dropped.
data logs show over 300amps.
might have to go parralell.
Congrats, 118mph on 4s is amazing! If you have the room, running 2 packs in parallel will help with voltage sag significantly. It would also help the lifespan of your packs.
Thanks for the help as always, also was just enlightened about connectors, I have three 6s rigs all with deans, I’ve gotten away with that for ahile but one of my esc doesn’t have throttle, should I blame my connectors
The connectors shouldn't cause something like you are experiencing but its hard to tell without seeing.
@@RCexplained sorry I was being very vague haha, I have a hobbywing max8 it’s worked fine a few times, and my others with the same are doing just fine, but my last run it cut out and now doesn’t seem to work, won’t even count cells, but the fan still turns on and there’s still a light, pretty sure it’s shot, rly just looking for a diagnosis, using deans, also my esc is 150amp and my batteries are x2 4200mah 30c 3s. LIFE batteries so technically under spec but these batteries work fine on my other truck same system but don’t wanna make a mistake again, also the esc over heats just being plugged in for a minute, is it possible I ruined the capacitors by batteries,
Also all of this is short runs in extremely cold temperatures so doubt it coulda got too overheated
ONE More thing haha
The run before I left 1 battery plugged in on the 15 minute ride home, also my bad haha,
You think any of these woulda done it ?
@@RCexplained one more small detain lol, these are all hpi esc pretty much rebranded hobbywing, all from Jennys rc a eBay kit breaker, all esc are the same model but the one that broke I noticed came with a slightly weaker fan, I wonder if there are any other differences, because my other two are just fine with low temps
Is 60c considered high or low c rating?
60C is high for today's standards. An accurate 60C is very high and rather unlikely for most packs. Pick c rating not just by a number but a reputation.
@@RCexplained I chose that high of a c rating because I'll be running a triple screw boat on 3 brushless motors and I know the demand will be high.
Is it possible and safe to change cables on lipo from 12awg to 10awg?
It is possible when done very carefully.
@@RCexplained thanks
teach brother thanks
Can you increase the c rate by adding cells or capacitors?
C rating is constant and does not change. You can add cells in parallel to increase capacity and discharge rate.
do u have a lesson on esc
yes, you may have to dig in the search window
See..we all need a c rating meter which does not exist. A couple of old school batts with good reputations may advertise real specs. 90% of the over the counter batteries lie about those numbers. We need a universal way to read crating
The C rating has to do with the internal resistance of the battery. We can measure that quite easily, but I'm not sure how it can be converted to an actual C rating.
Have you guys watched this video? ruclips.net/video/tqcbMCQY9fE/видео.html
@@RCexplained Very useful, thanks!
The part about temperature, can be applied to in parallel batteries?
a 6awg wire can only substain 63Amp continuous. There is something wrong with someones calculator?
Nope, you just can't use a wire gauge vs load chart for the wrong application.
sound advice
Speak a little more slowly, please. Makes it easier as a newbie and non native speaker to follow. Thx for sharing your knowledge. KEEP IT UP!
Thanks Han, I will try my best. It's hard to break habits like these.
C rating is a scam!
It seems to be that way
I like to run 2-2.5 times the amount of required C rating in my planes. For my geared down and brushed crawlers, give me the cheapest 2200mah 30c 3s lipo and it'll last for years lol
Hey Mike, that makes sense and is a great cost effective strategy.
No offense but that BS...cheapass lipos get you nowhere even with a crawler!
Can i put a higher C in a brushed. A 50. 60C??
You may try, just monitor changes in operating temps.
This guy on another channel just said c rating makes no difference. He's using cheap batteries . I told him he doesn't know what he's taking about. Us racers have to have a big dump
Hello, is the point he is trying to make related to c ratings vs reality? Many manufactures use c ratings as a sales tactic as you probably already know. If he is saying true c rating which is inversely proportional to internal resistance of a battery, that would be incorrect and misinformed.
200 thumbs
Higher C rating on stock esc's cause fires. This is why traxxas batteries are 25c with a 50c burst.
Are you serious??😅