I sold this lens for the exact reason that you’re talking about. I found that once the sun started to go down, I just couldn’t use the lens most of the time. I agree, that the light in the frame looked really good, but the shadows had so much noise no matter what I did, short of me lowering the shadows to be almost black, I can’t figure out how some people can somehow completely get rid of that noise while maintaining their shadows, I’m thinking they probably do it in post, but all things considered, for me personally, I just wanted to replace this lens with primes that worked better in low light. I no longer have any zoom lenses. I agree, I am always thinking about the two zoom lenses you mentioned at the end of the video, because of 2.8, and I’m not sure the stabilization makes all that much of a difference in the Tamron, but at this point, especially when I use clear image zoom, I don’t feel the need to buy one of those lenses. In any case, great review as always, thank you so much for sharing such meaningful information.
@@ConstantineSPhotography I have a few... Samyang 12mm f/2 (manual), Sigma 16mm f/1.4, Sony 35mm f/1.8 OSS, which is my favorite, and I have a vintage Minolta 28mm f/2.8 (manual). I often use clear image zoom with the Sigma, so it's like having a 24mm, or roughly a 35mm equivalent, and so I feel pretty much covered. I do have a Sony 55-210 OSS as well, which I love, but I hardly ever use it in any of my work, but every once in a while, it's an awesome option, (and I got it for $100 brand new on EBay, so, lucky me.) 😁💯
Cool, great lens collections! I agree the clear image zoom can be helpful when you use a prime lens, but sometimes I hate that I have to keep pressing the power zoom button, which is a lot slower than when you can turn the zoom ring of a zoom lens. Doesn't it bother you? I guess I'm more of a zoom lens person.
@@ConstantineSPhotography I agree with you, that’s a great point. I guess the difference is I’m more a prime person, I always have in mind the look that I want before I shoot, but that’s because I am a narrative filmmaker, I don’t really go out and just shoot to see what’s coming. I’m much more intentional, but when I do just go out and shoot for fun, I definitely sometimes wish I had a great zoom lens. But for my work, prime lenses work better for me. Plus, I just have a button set for my clear image zoom on the camera, so it can happen really fast. I don’t mind not having the ring. I suppose if I was a documentary filmmaker I would probably always use a zoom lens, or at least for everything other than interview parts of the doc.
Thanks for watching and supporting the channel! Yeah I've been considering Sony 50 1.8, great value out of a tiny lens, but I think if I want to get a prime portrait lens, maybe I'll go with Sigma 56mm.
The 1.8 50 is a powerhouse I got away with using just that for professional shoots for a good year and is great for low light, street, and event capture.
Hey, really nice video here ! I was wondering why are you. using the pp10 (Slog3) instead of another one or pp off which could handle low light situations better on a 8bit camera ?
Thank you. I mostly use pp10 hlg3 because I think it gives me a very good start for editing and color grading. It's a little flat but not too flat, and it has enough dynamic range. I also tried some other picture profiles, they're either too dark, too vibrant or not easy to work with.
Thanks for your kind comment. I think it's a bit strange to say a camera is good or bad for "stock photography and videos" because it's not really a category. But I think generally ZVE10 is a very powerful camera for a low price.
I don't think that ZV-E10 has a in-body stabilization. So you need to turn on the Active Steady shot. And if you want to use only the stabilization in the lens, you need to use the standard steady shot.
I really have no idea, but I guess even when the chip shortage problem is solved, they will still prioritize producing more expensive cameras rather than this entry level camera.
Feel free to ask any questions, we're all here to share and learn. PP means picture profile, you can choose different picture profiles on your camera, they will give your image different color tones and contrast, etc. Some picture profiles are flatter, so easier for color grading. You can see the effect of ZVE10 picture profile in this video: ruclips.net/video/ZefxyjWd--c/видео.html
no zoom lens with constant aperture is not full constant.the 24_105 f4 fe as u zoom in with a crop body or ff always darkens a bit.same as tamrons 28_75 & 70_180 f2.8 both.The issue here is that the test is not persistent cause pp10 hlg 8bit is very hard to edit correctly and it s not recommended on night shoot with contrast situations.If this lens tested to a 10bit crop or ff body in 4k mode with no pp maybe shows the value and weekness.I agree that with primes and linear af system the results are superior.But every lens has its unique rendering.Very good presentation..❤ Also custom pp on a sony is another level and difficult to achieve the right result cause standard pp from sony are awful (especially on 8bit bodies)
@@ConstantineSPhotography Good morning, we customize pprofiles with partners and found some interesting 'log' profiles through deep digging .The issue here is to create colourless profile with accurate colour rendering but low as possible(tweaking example -7 on green,or red) cause sony in some models has magenta,greenish or older models yellowish render as native colour reproduction.Thank you in advance
I am sorry to say, but it appears you are not exposing properly. How did you measure light ? Looks like your blacks are overexposed. Also, I think best footage you've shown was the PP-OFF. Profiles seem to make the footage flat, muddy, lacking contrast and sharpness. Look at the footage of this guy on YT (POV Walks With Roving Cyclops). Same camera, kit lens. It just show you if you expose properly, good, deep blacks are attainable. For some reason, I have a feeling that PPs are taking away from quality of image. Just my opinion.
No because the equivalent in apsc is f6 cause you have to add the crop factor of 1.5. And even if you have f2.8 is 2.8 X 1.5 so is an equivalent of f4.2
That's incorrect. The F stop does not change between full frame and crop sensor. if you have a crop censored camera and have a 35mm lens on it then that's when the lens would be roughly a 50mm full frame equivalent and the 1.5x rule comes in. The aperture still lets in the same amount of light so it remains an f4.
@@mariusmocan8491 ok so tell me why if I use the crop sensor mode in my Sony a7 IV the luminosity decrease, the depth of field increase and the iso increase? And tell me why if I put a 50mm F1.8 on a full frame camera if I want the same result on an apsc camera I have to put a 33mm 1.2? Let's try.
Thanks for the sharing about the camera and lens. Very useful information.
I sold this lens for the exact reason that you’re talking about. I found that once the sun started to go down, I just couldn’t use the lens most of the time. I agree, that the light in the frame looked really good, but the shadows had so much noise no matter what I did, short of me lowering the shadows to be almost black, I can’t figure out how some people can somehow completely get rid of that noise while maintaining their shadows, I’m thinking they probably do it in post, but all things considered, for me personally, I just wanted to replace this lens with primes that worked better in low light. I no longer have any zoom lenses. I agree, I am always thinking about the two zoom lenses you mentioned at the end of the video, because of 2.8, and I’m not sure the stabilization makes all that much of a difference in the Tamron, but at this point, especially when I use clear image zoom, I don’t feel the need to buy one of those lenses. In any case, great review as always, thank you so much for sharing such meaningful information.
Thank you for your comment, Rock. So you switch to prime lens now? Just out of curiosity, which prime lens do you choose?
@@ConstantineSPhotography I have a few... Samyang 12mm f/2 (manual), Sigma 16mm f/1.4, Sony 35mm f/1.8 OSS, which is my favorite, and I have a vintage Minolta 28mm f/2.8 (manual). I often use clear image zoom with the Sigma, so it's like having a 24mm, or roughly a 35mm equivalent, and so I feel pretty much covered. I do have a Sony 55-210 OSS as well, which I love, but I hardly ever use it in any of my work, but every once in a while, it's an awesome option, (and I got it for $100 brand new on EBay, so, lucky me.) 😁💯
Cool, great lens collections! I agree the clear image zoom can be helpful when you use a prime lens, but sometimes I hate that I have to keep pressing the power zoom button, which is a lot slower than when you can turn the zoom ring of a zoom lens. Doesn't it bother you? I guess I'm more of a zoom lens person.
@@ConstantineSPhotography I agree with you, that’s a great point. I guess the difference is I’m more a prime person, I always have in mind the look that I want before I shoot, but that’s because I am a narrative filmmaker, I don’t really go out and just shoot to see what’s coming. I’m much more intentional, but when I do just go out and shoot for fun, I definitely sometimes wish I had a great zoom lens. But for my work, prime lenses work better for me. Plus, I just have a button set for my clear image zoom on the camera, so it can happen really fast. I don’t mind not having the ring. I suppose if I was a documentary filmmaker I would probably always use a zoom lens, or at least for everything other than interview parts of the doc.
Great to know that, thanks for sharing!
I like the unedited photos better than the edited.
I'm still trying to find my style😅😅 Thanks for watching!
@@ConstantineSPhotography No worries. I think our individual styles will always be developing. Great work.
Thanks for your kind comment, really appreciate it.
Good video have you tried the Sony 50 1.8? That would improve the low light, and then you can use clear image zoom to punch in for extra zoom.
Thanks for watching and supporting the channel! Yeah I've been considering Sony 50 1.8, great value out of a tiny lens, but I think if I want to get a prime portrait lens, maybe I'll go with Sigma 56mm.
have you used the Sony 18-105 f4 for streaming as i got the Sony ZV-E10
The 1.8 50 is a powerhouse I got away with using just that for professional shoots for a good year and is great for low light, street, and event capture.
@@ALionsDream that's awesome. 50mm is a must have. anyway i went for Canon r6ii.
Hey, really nice video here ! I was wondering why are you. using the pp10 (Slog3) instead of another one or pp off which could handle low light situations better on a 8bit camera ?
Thank you. I mostly use pp10 hlg3 because I think it gives me a very good start for editing and color grading. It's a little flat but not too flat, and it has enough dynamic range. I also tried some other picture profiles, they're either too dark, too vibrant or not easy to work with.
Puedes hacer uno con el sony 70 350 ❤❤❤
I don't have that one, too expensive for me😂😂
which software do you use for editing raw footages?
For the images in this video, I used Luminar 4 (now Luminar Neo)
Thank u for covering various aspects of zve10. Will u recommend it for stock photography and videos?
Thanks for your kind comment. I think it's a bit strange to say a camera is good or bad for "stock photography and videos" because it's not really a category. But I think generally ZVE10 is a very powerful camera for a low price.
@@ConstantineSPhotography Thank u.
Is it possible to combine the OSS of the lens with the digital inbody stabilization?
I don't think that ZV-E10 has a in-body stabilization. So you need to turn on the Active Steady shot. And if you want to use only the stabilization in the lens, you need to use the standard steady shot.
Beautiful video
I like 🎉
Thanks man!
When do you think this camera will be available for the purchase ???
I really have no idea, but I guess even when the chip shortage problem is solved, they will still prioritize producing more expensive cameras rather than this entry level camera.
Another good lesson, thanks. I'm a newbie and I don't know what pp 10 - pp off mean. Can you clarify it for me please? Greetings
Feel free to ask any questions, we're all here to share and learn. PP means picture profile, you can choose different picture profiles on your camera, they will give your image different color tones and contrast, etc. Some picture profiles are flatter, so easier for color grading. You can see the effect of ZVE10 picture profile in this video: ruclips.net/video/ZefxyjWd--c/видео.html
Thank you very much for your help and kindness. It is a pleasure ...
@@sonyandfimi8302 Glad I could help!
no zoom lens with constant aperture is not full constant.the 24_105 f4 fe as u zoom in with a crop body or ff always darkens a bit.same as tamrons 28_75 & 70_180 f2.8 both.The issue here is that the test is not persistent cause pp10 hlg 8bit is very hard to edit correctly and it s not recommended on night shoot with contrast situations.If this lens tested to a 10bit crop or ff body in 4k mode with no pp maybe shows the value and weekness.I agree that with primes and linear af system the results are superior.But every lens has its unique rendering.Very good presentation..❤
Also custom pp on a sony is another level and difficult to achieve the right result cause standard pp from sony are awful (especially on 8bit bodies)
Thanks for sharing. I like to use HLG because I think PP off is too saturated and left me little room to add any style.
@@ConstantineSPhotography Good morning, we customize pprofiles with partners and found some interesting 'log' profiles through deep digging .The issue here is to create colourless profile with accurate colour rendering but low as possible(tweaking example -7 on green,or red) cause sony in some models has magenta,greenish or older models yellowish render as native colour reproduction.Thank you in advance
What is pp9?
picture profile 9
Thanks again good video
Glad you like it!
I am sorry to say, but it appears you are not exposing properly. How did you measure light ? Looks like your blacks are overexposed. Also, I think best footage you've shown was the PP-OFF. Profiles seem to make the footage flat, muddy, lacking contrast and sharpness. Look at the footage of this guy on YT (POV Walks With Roving Cyclops). Same camera, kit lens. It just show you if you expose properly, good, deep blacks are attainable. For some reason, I have a feeling that PPs are taking away from quality of image. Just my opinion.
I think PP10 looks a little bit dark when exposed correctly, so I always overexpose by about +0.3 to +0.7.
Nice😍🤙🏼
Thanks for watching!
keep it up
Will do! Thanks!
아니... 너무 멋지다..
Thank you!!
No because the equivalent in apsc is f6 cause you have to add the crop factor of 1.5. And even if you have f2.8 is 2.8 X 1.5 so is an equivalent of f4.2
That's incorrect. The F stop does not change between full frame and crop sensor. if you have a crop censored camera and have a 35mm lens on it then that's when the lens would be roughly a 50mm full frame equivalent and the 1.5x rule comes in. The aperture still lets in the same amount of light so it remains an f4.
@@mariusmocan8491 ok so tell me why if I use the crop sensor mode in my Sony a7 IV the luminosity decrease, the depth of field increase and the iso increase? And tell me why if I put a 50mm F1.8 on a full frame camera if I want the same result on an apsc camera I have to put a 33mm 1.2? Let's try.
dont have this camera yet but very helpful still
Thank you! If you're looking for an entry level camera, I believe Sony zve10 is the best.
Thanks for the sharing about the camera and lens. Very useful information.
@@TedTu-g3j you are very welcome 🙏