Hi I used MIG on my Haya Chieftan tracks but they did not go as dark as you achieved although they looked a lot better than how shiny they were when the tank arrived. I did not wash and scrub or use warm water as you did and looks like i should have. First time i had used it and have to say its worth doing it as it improved the look a lot even though they went a grey colour rather than black. Thanks again for really useful tips.
That happened to me first time. I found if there is any grease or releasing agent from the molds, the fluid cant attack the track metal. I've been meaning to do this for a while, and as i had no content of the Abrams i thought id put this out. If people are amazing enough to subscribe to my nonsense, the least i can do is try to do something weekly 🙂 thanks for watching again, too kind
I see these are the high quality chains from Mato Toys for the Leopard! . Your rubber pads have already been pre-assembled, but not here I have to improvise which glue to use to stick these rubber pads on! as these were not included with the Leopard (also purchase). I've never done the chain rusting thing before, but the question is, won't the rubber pads come off the chain? An answer to this would be nice of you.👍👍👍👍👍
Hi! No the pad won’t come off with the mig track fluids. The Mato ones fit the Leo and Abrams, the chally 2 ones come with slot in pads, that you have to stick in. Super glue does the job well. Hope it’s going well, and thanks for watching! Have a great week
I usually use something which is called ColdOx Classic, for cold oxidation, but you need to be very careful and wear gloves, usually two mins in this oxide agent and all which is silver comes black almost instantly, depending of course how black you want the things to be... it is useful and quite cheap, 1 liter around 10-15 Pounds I suppose... next I usually pout some rust and sand on it and brush it, gives a very nice "used and run" look for most of things
Hi! That must look very effective, I’ll look it up, but knowing me I’ll oxidise myself 😂 Great to hear from you, and thanks for the support, have a great rest of the week! 🙂👍
Thanks for the video my friend! This seems like less work than painting. I'm going to follow your directions on this. I hope to get same results. Your tracks look amazing !!
Thanks! And it gives a good base for weathering them you know won’t come off. Thanks so much for watching, makes it worthwhile 🙂 and glad it was of use! Have a great week!
I use the same stuff on my tank tracks, just one bottle, leave in for few minutes then take out and leave in the sun then wash off and dry, It does work well and like you say it's better than painting them.
Hi! Yes is quite good, and if they are run or weathered it helps it all stick a bit to make it look even better. Thanks for saying hi and watching, and sorry for not getting back sooner, work in the summer term gets nuts! Have a great week 🙂
Hello! I watch all of your videos. I watch them on my TV, so subscribing/liking/commenting are either impossible or above my current skill set. :) I really enjoy your videos. Very nice how-to's, and superb video/audio work. I like your channel because of the work you do, so thought instead of constantly searching for your work, would get on a PC and subscribe and click the bell. Now to the meat. I got the M1A2 in desert and the one in MERDC, both V7.0. I used the same Mig burnishing fluid, to do the original metal tracks. I got away with one bottle. "After" I bought the bottle I decided to do research on how to use it. I got away with using one bottle for both tracks by just letting them soak longer in a more diluted solution. But then, I came across the tracks with rubber pads! I put them together and put them on the desert Abrams. They feel a little snug to me. I was wondering when you put yours on did you use the track tension adjuster, or was it just a straight 1 for 1 swap, or did your tanks already come with the padded tracks? Are you going to make a video of changing out the tracks? If there already is one, I apologize. I just haven't found it. Would love to see it. BTW, I also heard that the firearms bluing agent is pretty much the same thing at a fraction of the cost, but haven't seen anyone try it yet.
Hi! Firstly thanks for watching, I’m still amazed people watch my content! I think tighter is better, they normally shed tracks if it looses tension on turns between the last road wheel and sprocket. I’m not sure about the tension on mine yet as I basically run it around the front room, and took it apart to work on it, I will say with my challenger 2 I took out 1 link to stop the idler/track tensioner flopping down because it was loose. I’ve put them back on, I’ll do a short to show you the factory tension (mine came with the rubber pad tracks) And I’m glad it looks clear, I record them on my iPhone, I really should get a proper camera, but it seems to do the trick, though the iPhone camera does have a mind of its own!. And thanks again for taking the time to watch, means a lot 😁
@@mrtankalotrctankschannel It is my honor, more so than you know, to hear from you. You have done some really cool things. I have a couple questions. I took my M1A2 out for a cruise this morning. Loved seeing the little kids faces plastered to the windows, that was as much fun as driving the tank around! How do you keep your aerials on? My tank, the antenna fit is so loose. I was trying to justify just soldering it to the base but thought I would ask you first. Second, the gear box you showed in your first Abrams looks just like mine. It is enclosed. Is that a good gear box? I drove mine through wet grass, over rocks, into sand, up a steep 60 degree incline, and ran it back again remembering to put the gun tube over the rear deck...lol, I am an old US Marine....improper things have happened. Look forward to your video on the track tension. Thank you for your time and what you do. Alan
@@alantrail7662 your too kind 🙂 the aerials I’d use a bit of varnish and paint the metal bit the aerials push onto to thicken it up a bit, or clear nail varnish. I think you could solder them, but pull them out the tank first, I know this is teaching someone to suck eggs, but I forgot once and the metal I was soldering was still attached to the tank and I melted the attachment point that’s plastic, Doh! I’ve not run it much yet, but as far as I know there steel, not the chinesium that my little boys t72 had issues with, and it’s nice they have the dust covers. Thanks again for watching my nonsense! And always a good idea to chuck the gun over the deck! 🙂
And I’ll get round to the track tension, but rctanklegion have done a good video on this the chap is called Stanlley Legion m.ruclips.net/video/szka1JDHkhw/видео.html
@@mrtankalotrctankschannel You made me laugh..chinesium! I have a theory that while in minute quantities, they get rid of their national waste by imparting subtle quantities into their products. I will hush now. But surely I was looking for a way to continue electrical conductivity to the antenna without a permanent mount. I have worked at Boeing well over 3 decades. I found a malleable sealant that conducts well, but doesn't make it a permanent contact where it requires destructive measures to remove it. lol.
Hi! Not sure what that would be, mine were okay. If you get a track wash from ammo by mig, it should colour that down to a bit of a rusty tone. I’m going to do that to mine anyway at some point and put a dust/mud wash too. Hope that helps, and thanks for getting in touch, sorry I took ages to get back! Have a great weekend 🙂 and thanks for watching
Hi! Yes that’s good stuff too I hear, I mainly use Mig because I can pick it up at the tank museum, so no postage 🙂 and I get a 10% discount. Did it work quicker? Or the same? Thanks so much for watching! And have a great Sunday
@@mrtankalotrctankschannel Ive tried both now. Both VMS and Ak black track work very well. But I have to say I actually prefer the Ak version. I didnt follow the guidelines and just semi submerged the tracks in the fluid and scrubbed them with a tooth brush for 10 or so minutes. Then left them to soak for a further ten. The Ak leaves a lovely brownish rust and a light dusty residue on the outside of the tracks, pretty much weathered themselves with a little elbow grease. Chuffed with the results
@@mrtankalotrctankschannel And I also used the cheapest, nastiest nail polish remover to clean/prep the tracks before hand as it contains 90% plus of acetone, then clean them off in warm soapy water and rinse in council water ;)
Wy do you do water with the bottle Mig and put it inside dish and mix it , other brands do that not what will happen wen i do it pure and put the tracks inside the Mig witout water .
Hi You do t have to in 1/35th but the amount you’d use neat on 1/16th would be huge. The dilation makes no difference to effect, just takes a bit longer. Thanks for watching! Have a great week 🙂
I was wondering if the mig stuff would work on HL tracks…….I assume it would do the same to the metal idler & sprocket wheels?…and the suspension arms (metal of course)….
After you have done this, can you still paint a primer and then paint for example a brown color , for the weathering look? I want to use it for my shiny blank metal sprockets.
Hi! I wouldn’t bother if your going to paint them anyway. I’d get a good undercoat and paint the sprockets as normal (give them a sand to get the shiny off with 800 grit glass paper, and wash them before you undercoat them to give the paint a key to grip to) If you want to weather the tracks with this on it’s really easy. Thanks for watching 🙂 and have a good weekend
Great video.
Thanks! And thanks for watching 👍
Great video.
Chemical blueing agent for firearms also works and does go black after two applications
Hi!
ill have to have a go at that
@@mrtankalotrctankschannel You may need aluminium or alloy specific agent
@@PieAndChips I’ll have a look online and give it a go 🙂
Hi I used MIG on my Haya Chieftan tracks but they did not go as dark as you achieved although they looked a lot better than how shiny they were when the tank arrived. I did not wash and scrub or use warm water as you did and looks like i should have. First time i had used it and have to say its worth doing it as it improved the look a lot even though they went a grey colour rather than black. Thanks again for really useful tips.
That happened to me first time.
I found if there is any grease or releasing agent from the molds, the fluid cant attack the track metal.
I've been meaning to do this for a while, and as i had no content of the Abrams i thought id put this out.
If people are amazing enough to subscribe to my nonsense, the least i can do is try to do something weekly
🙂
thanks for watching again, too kind
I see these are the high quality chains from Mato Toys for the Leopard! . Your rubber pads have already been pre-assembled, but not here I have to improvise which glue to use to stick these rubber pads on! as these were not included with the Leopard (also purchase). I've never done the chain rusting thing before, but the question is, won't the rubber pads come off the chain? An answer to this would be nice of you.👍👍👍👍👍
Hi!
No the pad won’t come off with the mig track fluids.
The Mato ones fit the Leo and Abrams, the chally 2 ones come with slot in pads, that you have to stick in.
Super glue does the job well.
Hope it’s going well, and thanks for watching!
Have a great week
I usually use something which is called ColdOx Classic, for cold oxidation, but you need to be very careful and wear gloves, usually two mins in this oxide agent and all which is silver comes black almost instantly, depending of course how black you want the things to be... it is useful and quite cheap, 1 liter around 10-15 Pounds I suppose... next I usually pout some rust and sand on it and brush it, gives a very nice "used and run" look for most of things
Hi!
That must look very effective, I’ll look it up, but knowing me I’ll oxidise myself 😂
Great to hear from you, and thanks for the support, have a great rest of the week! 🙂👍
Thanks for the video my friend! This seems like less work than painting.
I'm going to follow your directions on this. I hope to get same results.
Your tracks look amazing !!
Thanks! And it gives a good base for weathering them you know won’t come off.
Thanks so much for watching, makes it worthwhile 🙂 and glad it was of use!
Have a great week!
I use the same stuff on my tank tracks, just one bottle, leave in for few minutes then take out and leave in the sun then wash off and dry, It does work well and like you say it's better than painting them.
Hi!
Yes is quite good, and if they are run or weathered it helps it all stick a bit to make it look even better.
Thanks for saying hi and watching, and sorry for not getting back sooner, work in the summer term gets nuts!
Have a great week 🙂
Hello! I watch all of your videos. I watch them on my TV, so subscribing/liking/commenting are either impossible or above my current skill set. :)
I really enjoy your videos. Very nice how-to's, and superb video/audio work. I like your channel because of the work you do, so thought instead of constantly searching for your
work, would get on a PC and subscribe and click the bell.
Now to the meat. I got the M1A2 in desert and the one in MERDC, both V7.0. I used the same Mig burnishing fluid, to do the original metal tracks. I got away with one bottle. "After" I bought the bottle I decided to do research on how to use it. I got away with using one bottle for both tracks by just letting them soak longer in a more diluted solution.
But then, I came across the tracks with rubber pads!
I put them together and put them on the desert Abrams. They feel a little snug to me. I was wondering when you put yours on did you use the track tension adjuster, or was it just a straight 1 for 1
swap, or did your tanks already come with the padded tracks? Are you going to make a video of changing out the tracks? If there already is one, I apologize. I just haven't found it. Would love to see it.
BTW, I also heard that the firearms bluing agent is pretty much the same thing at a fraction of the cost, but haven't seen anyone try it yet.
Hi!
Firstly thanks for watching, I’m still amazed people watch my content!
I think tighter is better, they normally shed tracks if it looses tension on turns between the last road wheel and sprocket.
I’m not sure about the tension on mine yet as I basically run it around the front room, and took it apart to work on it, I will say with my challenger 2 I took out 1 link to stop the idler/track tensioner flopping down because it was loose.
I’ve put them back on, I’ll do a short to show you the factory tension (mine came with the rubber pad tracks)
And I’m glad it looks clear, I record them on my iPhone, I really should get a proper camera, but it seems to do the trick, though the iPhone camera does have a mind of its own!.
And thanks again for taking the time to watch, means a lot 😁
@@mrtankalotrctankschannel It is my honor, more so than you know, to hear from you. You have done some really cool things. I have a couple questions. I took my M1A2 out for a cruise this morning. Loved seeing the little kids faces plastered to the windows, that was as much fun as driving the tank around! How do you keep your aerials on? My tank, the antenna fit is so loose. I was trying to justify just soldering it to the base but thought I would ask you first. Second, the gear box you showed in your first Abrams looks just like mine. It is enclosed. Is that a good gear box? I drove mine through wet grass, over rocks, into sand, up a steep 60 degree incline, and ran it back again remembering to put the gun tube over the rear deck...lol, I am an old US Marine....improper things have happened.
Look forward to your video on the track tension. Thank you for your time and what you do.
Alan
@@alantrail7662 your too kind 🙂 the aerials I’d use a bit of varnish and paint the metal bit the aerials push onto to thicken it up a bit, or clear nail varnish.
I think you could solder them, but pull them out the tank first, I know this is teaching someone to suck eggs, but I forgot once and the metal I was soldering was still attached to the tank and I melted the attachment point that’s plastic, Doh!
I’ve not run it much yet, but as far as I know there steel, not the chinesium that my little boys t72 had issues with, and it’s nice they have the dust covers.
Thanks again for watching my nonsense! And always a good idea to chuck the gun over the deck! 🙂
And I’ll get round to the track tension, but rctanklegion have done a good video on this the chap is called Stanlley Legion
m.ruclips.net/video/szka1JDHkhw/видео.html
@@mrtankalotrctankschannel You made me laugh..chinesium! I have a theory that while in minute quantities, they get rid of their national waste by imparting subtle quantities into their products. I will hush now. But surely I was looking for a way to continue electrical conductivity to the antenna without a permanent mount. I have worked at Boeing well over 3 decades. I found a malleable sealant that conducts well, but doesn't make it a permanent contact where it requires destructive measures to remove it. lol.
I used the blue liquid as in the video, turned black, but after drying, has a gray frost, mold look and tried brushing it off
Hi!
Not sure what that would be, mine were okay.
If you get a track wash from ammo by mig, it should colour that down to a bit of a rusty tone.
I’m going to do that to mine anyway at some point and put a dust/mud wash too.
Hope that helps, and thanks for getting in touch, sorry I took ages to get back!
Have a great weekend 🙂 and thanks for watching
I went with VMS black track pro 2
Hi!
Yes that’s good stuff too I hear, I mainly use Mig because I can pick it up at the tank museum, so no postage 🙂 and I get a 10% discount.
Did it work quicker? Or the same?
Thanks so much for watching! And have a great Sunday
@@mrtankalotrctankschannel Ive tried both now. Both VMS and Ak black track work very well. But I have to say I actually prefer the Ak version. I didnt follow the guidelines and just semi submerged the tracks in the fluid and scrubbed them with a tooth brush for 10 or so minutes. Then left them to soak for a further ten. The Ak leaves a lovely brownish rust and a light dusty residue on the outside of the tracks, pretty much weathered themselves with a little elbow grease. Chuffed with the results
@@mrtankalotrctankschannel And I also used the cheapest, nastiest nail polish remover to clean/prep the tracks before hand as it contains 90% plus of acetone, then clean them off in warm soapy water and rinse in council water ;)
Wy do you do water with the bottle Mig and put it inside dish and mix it , other brands do that not what will happen wen i do it pure and put the tracks inside the Mig witout water .
Hi
You do t have to in 1/35th but the amount you’d use neat on 1/16th would be huge. The dilation makes no difference to effect, just takes a bit longer.
Thanks for watching! Have a great week 🙂
I was wondering if the mig stuff would work on HL tracks…….I assume it would do the same to the metal idler & sprocket wheels?…and the suspension arms (metal of course)….
Hi!
Yes! It will work on the Chineseium they use 🙂
How do you clean the track, mine kind of left a gray film?
Hope above helps
I used gun bluing and it turned out great.
Hi! it never crossed my mind, i guess being in blighty we don't have ready access, but ill give it a go next time 👍 and thanks for watching again
Great mate 👍 Thanks 🥃
Thanks! and thanks for watching 😁
After you have done this, can you still paint a primer and then paint for example a brown color , for the weathering look? I want to use it for my shiny blank metal sprockets.
Hi!
I wouldn’t bother if your going to paint them anyway.
I’d get a good undercoat and paint the sprockets as normal (give them a sand to get the shiny off with 800 grit glass paper, and wash them before you undercoat them to give the paint a key to grip to)
If you want to weather the tracks with this on it’s really easy.
Thanks for watching 🙂 and have a good weekend
@@mrtankalotrctankschannel Thank you very much!
Nice bro :)
Hi!
Thanks so much, and thanks got taking the time to say hi!
Have a great day 🙂