A MUST Have Tool For Setting Windows + Piece Rates in '90's?
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- Опубликовано: 22 фев 2024
- Suction Cups: amzn.to/48vgtT7
Follow along as we set a handful of windows, talk pricing and '90's piece rates that my family used to get doing this 30 years ago.. How we use construction pencils for proper spacing. Did you know that a 48x48" window isn't actually 48x48"? We'll talk about this and more in this episode.
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#construction #framing #carpentry 
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![Re-Learning To Frame In Colorado | Overhangs, Blocking, Rake Walls [On The Road #2]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/8H8565uTwNI/mqdefault.jpg)
You’re really good at explaining stuff. My dad is a such a gatekeeper.
In Michigan they require sill tape on the sill now.
We do that in NC, dunno if code requires it. Inspectors like it tho
No wonder my body aches at night. You’re lucky to have a crew! I used to do my window jobs by myself. I couldn’t afford to pay a helper plus myself at the same time for what I was charging. Lone wolf.
Our drywall sub he’s an old guy mid 70’s I would say was just talking about back in the day (1960’s) hanging and finishing Sheetrock for 25-30 cents a square foot. He said it was a tough living.
Pro tip remove panel when installing makes it easier to handle and half the weight.
Also I would recommend some shims underneath the window frames.
You mentioned you much prefer setting windows in the zip system. I’d love to see a video walking through the details of that.
Nice RO adjustment at 8:30
Pumpin out the videos at a record pace. Im liking it
Editor is on my ass, I can’t stop..
I don’t want to live in his basement anymore.
Matt love that wall sheathing
@Matt, loved the suction cups. Haven't used em since cutting granite/quartz slabs. I still box all of my 2x12 headers old school sTyLiO so no sagging headers knock on wood. 🤣 Then I exceed code/manufacturers by screwing every hole on window flanges including the top. I feel the need to exceed. 😎✌️
That's a great video.
Thanks.
30 years in the trades,
I remember being trained to use only 7 nails per window....
Lol
I typically use a peel and stick flashing for the bottom to make a pan almost. Also I never glue the bottom flange fully only where the nail holes are as water can’t travel vertically and it seems of there is a leak it would trap the water in the window sill
Can you show us how to make a taper jig for the jobsite table saw and also explain why you would need it?
i dont usually screw the top cause like you said sag in the header but we always use fortiflash butyl and always run the top with the flashing membrane and on flanged windows we run an extra layer of flashing membrane on the flange for an extra layer of waterproofing but we leave the bottom one off for the second go around in case water ever does get behind it just like how you never calk the bottom of the window and we never install windows before we blue skin the whole building
I set windows in Las Vegas in the 90's for $5 a hole . Layout for16 cents a sf.
thank YOU 🍄❤️🔥
@12:45 the moral of the story is that sometimes, it's better to be lucky than good. Besides, what's a 16 year old gonna do? Finally, I thought you didn't caulk the bottom of the window so the water can seep out? Do these windows have a weep hole?
Kick ass. Where’s fox? Also, how come you didn’t put any moiststop on the sill. Something better than nothing I guess. I did learn tho.
Any issues with the Pella window flange being so narrow ( less than 2 inches I believe) with 2x6 framing??
So when you bid a framing job you include setting the windows. How about if there is a 12 foot long accordion folding door?
I know this is a Matt question but all framers are typically happy to set the windows, and no they are not included, somebody has to pay for the labor. Customer can choose what portion of the project they want you to bid on. Accordion doors are more, typically 4-600 per panel for install only around my neck of the woods and doesnt include concrete cut for flush threshold.
Sorry Matt I just lit up your comment section 😂
Ya
Appeared the bare wood of window sills were not taped and exposed so when windows leak, there is a problem within 5 years.
We used to get $1 a hole to set frames only no glass 😢
Can you explain to me how flash on the top of windows.
I mean how do you protect for a infiltration.
When it rain the water slide from top into your window. If it find a gap in the silicon then what.
Double bottom and side flashing paper and self adhesive flash on header
Were those truss screws you used to set the windows?
No sir, just typical pan head screws. I’ve never used any sort of pan head of truss screws, only ever some structural Strong Tie but they were hex head.
Why don't you bring the wrb into the pocket?
I’ve flashed so many different ways it’s not even funny. I used to run Tyvek into the opening.. but don’t know if that’s even considered correct.
Good day Matt. I noticed that your crew used screws to secure the window. The other build sites I watch, to the best of my recollection, they all use nails. Is your way a preference or a manufacturing requirement?
Ever crack a frame with a hammer
Nope. I am neither a builder nor window installer. I am 70 y.o. and like watching how things are done and therefore when I see a different procedure, I ask a question. I am no insinuating that Matt has done something wrong in the way he is installing the windows.@@h2s142
Screws are just nice because they are easier to adjust or change in the event something goes awry. Also does help that you arent habing to swing a hammer next to the finished product 😎
Get a change order out of re-framing? 😀
Absolutely, heading there to re frame them tomorrow, along with build out the stairs.
I thought caulk doesn't go on the bottom?
Windows are probably the most conflicting part of a build. I caulk all the way around, others don’t because they say it lets water out.. If I have water behind there, drywall is damaged on the sill and I’ve got bigger issues.
Waterproof window foam. Biggest issue is window fins arent wide enough
👍✌
That flashing would then overlap the tyvek and get stapled to it?
Would underlay on the sides and overlap on the bottom. Then finish flash over that. It’s a ridiculous process to achieve the same thing we get with ZIP.
I agree that’s a cheap and not ideal way to flash a window. Would never work in a wetter climate, although with the crazy rains that California has been getting, it may not be working there either. Modern flashing tapes and related products are just so good. Sure they cost a little more but your windows will be dry for the life of the window. What does it cost to use better products or methods? Twenty five or maybe even fifty a window? With good windows from $250 to insane and labor from 200+ a unit, why as a homeowner not specify proper flashing?
Of course, I see how modern production houses are being built to bare code minimums. They don’t even use real wood for sheathing. I live in a custom home that was built in 2000 and almost 25 years on, I can see where they did things right and where they cut corners. In another few years some of those cost savings are going to be expensive to fix. On these cheap houses, I doubt they get 10 years before they have issues. And sadly, they aren’t cheap, just cheaply made.
Moistop works fine, flashed many windows like this over the last 20 years and never a call back. Zip is cool dont get me wrong but reinventing the wheel a bit and paying quite a bit more to do it. The only difference is we would make a bituthane sil pan like you see guys do with the flex tape now and never caulked the bottom sil so water could exit if it somehow found a way. Sil pan shiuld always be a practice, maybe didnt have it in the budget idk
Im so happy i own a lift
We do too, but doesn’t always make sense to move it to places.
Damn even I got fifty a hole when I started
Windows next to the doors need to be tempered glass
Any window within 24” of a door
Why install windows with a method you don't "like". Have a discussion with who's ever making budget decisions and spend an extra $200 on Zip tape to do it right. Build the method into your bid/budget. Non-negotiable, stating that you ONLY install windows using X method. It's your name on the line.
I’ve installed hundreds and hundreds of windows this way.
You can’t use ZIP in this situation, and we didn’t frame this place or I would have used it. The issue is Tyvek as a house wrap relies on overlapping for water shedding. ZIP tape wouldn’t allow for overlap.
@@MattBangsWood I have no doubt that there are successful ways to install tyvek, just feels dated to me and a pain. Keep fighting the good fight out there. Maybe I'll catch you at IBS.
in the 90s when i was still a man hating life we got 55 ta 75 a unit..in the 2010 i took a ride on the wild side i said hay man .as a women i getts 150 a unit now ..5 buck wtf.....................yo iam out her ya said come you hire me well?????????????????iam here fresh from nyc
Small White lies don't Matter 😉 when your 16 and broke, starting out in Life
I’m glad someone else thinks that.
Lol, people still using can lights?!
Yes, on all quality work.