I'm a structural engineer! This video was great, and thank you for also sharing the different screenshots from the NDS publications as well! I love it!
@@mostylz7618 German engineers over-engineer everything. At some point you need to draw a line and say "enough is enough, that'll work just fine." But the Germans I know and work with are still solving a problem I fixed perfectly fine a long time ago. I guess that's why their part of the company is going out of business...
@@byugrad1024 Yeah, well, no! Our houses don't fall apart when there is a little bit of wind, which you call a storm. And without the stuff you stole after WWII you wouldn't had the great 50's/60's. You even wouldn't have proper rockets without a German. And maybe you just don't saw the problem you caused with your solution, which might be good enough for american standards. And sadly Germany has become more and more American over the years, that's why we're not that good anymore, I have to admit. I'm one of the last German Diploma Engineers. Now we have these Master and Bachelor BS. Multiple Choice tests... Made by and for idiots, to create more idiots.
@@mostylz7618finally someone putting the lowlifes in they place these western scum that don’t know how to read been talking too much trying to look intelligent Next thing you hear from this shill is gona be WE WON WWII Nah biach you didn’t win shiz you joined the war after Russia won it
I saw a couple houses collapse in my time as a builder by other builders. It was always from new crews who didn’t understand that you can’t rely on braces to hold an entire house with roof set. Sheathing and decking are your friend, sooner rather than later! Good video.
Thank you for the education. Met with a structural engineer last week to verify load bearing wall and received a significant education that I wish I had received decades ago. Wish I'd have taken my education more seriously and followed engineering.
Excellent vid! I'm a retired architect (with 3 years structural engineering at university and 9 years hands-on construction experience). You explained the basic concepts in accessible, layman terms. This is important as many builders and framers are more likely to watch vids from a framer, understand the concepts and incorporate this knowledge in their work. Thank you!
@@jeffbarron5500 your statement doesn't logically follow. California is known for strict earthquake design. All homes there have shear walls and carpenter's need training. I took his compliment as a huge compliment.
@@jeffbarron5500 Not sure about Oregon, but CA and WA normally use the same version of the IBC as a baseline code. CA has the CBC with special ‘A’ chapters used for public school and hospital projects that go under special review (DSA & HCAI, respectively). We’re not better, we just have to deal with famously difficult plan checkers depending on the type of work you get into. Because of this you end up being well-versed in lateral force-resisting systems. Didn’t mean to come across as demeaning or anything. Cheers!
Great stuff. I've been designing homes for over 30 years and have built several in that time, and I was always taught/told that the sheathing should go perpendicular to the studs. This was very enlightening. Thanks for the mini tutorial! Never too old to learn new things.
@H2s Yes, perpendicular. That has been the standard here for as long as I can remember. I'm not saying this is right or wrong, just what we have been doing for the past several decades, based on our code requirements. And we don't put backing on the long edges (hope that doesn't blow your mind too much). I like the idea of limiting the long edges being on the studs, if only for limiting moisture infiltration.
I've run into old-school guys who learned that, especially with 5-ply plywood. They know the plywood veneer sandwich has three layers running the 8' direction and only 2 going perpendicular to those, so they want to line up the three layers with the horizontal forces. But this is not understanding that the horizontal forces in turn create equal vertical forces as well, so orientation of the sheet goods doesn't matter. I built a house with one older guy who insisted we attach the panels horizontally and install blocking at 4'. It was a tall wall too, we had to add two rows of blocking. I was paid by the hour, and it was this GC's own house, so after pushing back a little I just did what he wanted, even though I knew it was wasted time. The quick reply to explain it is that the forces around the perimeter of each nailed piece of ply, the horizontal and vertical forces, are exactly the same on all 4 edges, so, (structurally) it doesn't matter which orientation you use. You put your edge nailing at 6&12 (or whatever) on the 4' edges just the same as on the long edges of the ply/OSB. That's because the load you're resisting is the same at the horizontal edges and at the vertical edges. It's a little counterintuitive, because in our minds, we're mostly thinking about restraining sideways forces. But those sideways forces create vertical forces (as seen in the overturning) so it's all the same structurally, and it's far more efficient to place the panels upright.
Great presentation. Just learning the terms (Overturning, Racking, and Base Shear) is helpful in understanding better and being able to describe what most of us intuitively know. Construction is full of urban legends regarding the code and engineering. It is wonderful to get the straight scoop from PEs on how various forces act upon structures rather than the BS at lunchtime when framers pontificate about science.
Very true about the field nails holding the panel to the framing! I had a project framed with Zip System sheathing where the sheathing got a little wet during construction, and buckled in or out between each stud up to 1/2" in deflection. But the sheet itself stayed firmly attached to the studs.
This would be a great practical video to show in an intro to statics engineering course. Very nice example with the simple starting wall. Then get into the individual and total nail shear forces, so nerdy! Love it.
I live 30min off the coast in Texas. My framer installed 2 shear walls in my home. 3/4” plywood and bolted in the slab. It is relatively cheap to do this and adds so much safety and security.
@@terryanderson4366 corner straps from within the foundation, wall straps, ceiling joist straps, if a hurricane takes our home it will be attached to the foundation…
@@jbratt Yes, the engineered house is strapped from the roof rafters to the corners. If our house blows away during a hurricane it’s taking the slab with it.
Great video and information. As a licensed contractor I am currently working on a insuarance claim where the sheeting was installed improperly and a wind storm racked the entire home. Definitely a very important part of the building process and easily overlooked.
Just found this video and subbed. I just learned about these various forces. I built a small 4 x 8 raised deck to catch rainwater in barrels on. I braced it figuring I'd have racking either from back to front or from side to side. A light rain easily filled the barrels. Roughly 450 pounds of water in each 55 gallon barrel. I thought 2 x 4s I had left over would work. Nope! A couple 2 x 6s seems to have worked. No more racking. I have a lot more to learn! 👍🇺🇸🍀
I survived Hurricane Andrew and then drove back down to my house, in South Miami Heights from NW 41st Street. Most homes built using cinder blocks construction survived. One housing development of 3000 homes, Lennar I think, gone. wiped of the map. I saw entire homes of cinder block gone. Roofs missing on some. Others, not a frickin’ scratch on them. O lived in a Quad townhome set up, Mine unit was on the west side, I had an 4’x5’ Plate glass above my front door. It had a 6” crack in it. My unit had zero damage. no leaks, nothing. The people behind my unit that were facing east? They got wiped out, so did their neighbor facing east. My neighbor facing west, got damaged because of his east facing neighbor. The guy across the street from me, A soccer coach at FIU, je had just spent $30,000 on nee Scandinavian furniture, custom furniture. It was beautiful wood working! GONE! It belonged to Andrew and his mansion in the sky. What a mind blowing nightmare Andrew was. The closest any non combatant will ever come to what a combat zone looks like. Any seriously damaging hurricane. Sorry. Reliving those moments.
Very helpful...we were thinking about getting a tile roof...very heavy, and after watching this, I think that might not be a great idea here in earthquake country. Thank you so much.
My parents built their house out of Cinder blocks all the other neighbors thought they were crazy. A decade of hurricanes and their house is still standing strong. The neighbors have had whole walls blown in Their roof sagged because it was made out of particle wood.. My parents demanded no particle board. Yet the neighbors house is worth more on the market because it's slightly bigger and has a pool. I'd roll with the cinderblock house all day.
cinder blocks are useless in an earthquake unless they are reinforced by metal flexible rebarb, wood flexes just make sure your house is bolted to the foundation
This was so awesome!!!!!!!!!!! I literally am using this video to help me for my California Seismic Engineering Exam. Thank you so much for breaking this down so that I can understand it better!
In michigan we're required a "braced wall panel" section. It shows the floor plan, in a simpler form, and highlights or darkens the specific sheer panel areas. Here it's typically 4' on each corner of the wall and next to large openings. It will then specify the type of panel bracing. Walls with huge openings (think garage walls) will typically be portal framed ; cs-pf, dpf, or pfh.
Usually it's the exterior walls and some interior walls set at right angles. Eg in SF for earthquake resistance: our house has an interior "spine" wall that runs the length of the house and carries a lot of the roof and second floor joist load. Then a few of the interior walls perpendicular to the lengthwise "spine" are 2x6 shear walls. They act to prevent the main spine wall from moving in its weakest direction (perpendicular to the wall length). Actually it's all connected because the spine does the same for the exterior side walls while the shear walls brace the front and back exterior. So it all locks together... as you'd expect. Our garage also has a huge beam and footings to prevent the 1.5 car wide door from being a weak point (aka the "soft story" problem).
I’ll be showing this to new-hire engineers as a great example of basic shear wall construction. The only input I have is that moment frames are not subsets of shears walls. They are two different types of lateral force resisting systems (i.e. braced frames, moment frames, shear walls). They use different design methods with different seismic loads on the structure. But this isn’t a video on moment frames 😅, so very well done! 👍🏼
I need to hear Timmy sing I Saw The Sign by Ace Of Base on the next one😂. Seriously.. really enjoy the videos. I’m no framer, just concrete forms and finisher but I’ve learned so much watching. Seen you guys doing your own footings as well🫡. Take care fellas
Its amazing on that entry video how there was obviously no sheathing on the walls or roof, but was there any kind of temp bracing even applied? I do remember years ago when framers were only required to sheath the corners, which was just wrong. Great video, from one builder to the next, keep em coming bro!
I'm amazed for how long after the 1906 quake they still allowed garbage construction methods in the SF Bay Area. Soft story buildings (first floor all parking so the whole front face is only supported on a couple of steel poles with no interior walls... a great recipe for collapse) were still being built into the 1980s IIRC. Or lots of SFHs with a crawl space with no sheathing (the half height crawl space walls love to collapse just like shown in this video). Still built this way into the 80s. Huge 12" redwood beams just toe-nailed onto their posts. Way too few anchor bolts. Not sure when this stopped but when we rented the 1939 house (long after 1906) was built this way - long after they should have known better.
This is a good video for framers in the south they put all the walls up and then scaffold outside and put the sheathing on after. Guys can be crushed. It takes 3 times as long to build also if you don't put the plywood on before you raise the walls.
Nice info, and GREAT video of shear failures! What would be super helpful is if Huber would stock longer Zip panels (and various Advantech flooring) in Canada. I can’t tell you how nice it would have been to have 10’ Zip and 1-1/8” Advantech available locally… I had to import my floor sheathing from NY myself, a major PITA. Maybe you can pass this along to Huber? 😁
I haven't found it in stock near upper MI either. Pretty sure it'll be a special order for me. That's a conversation I have yet to have. But it'll be worth it to save not only on the extra blocking, but also the resultant thermal bridging. Sure it's a drop in the bucket, but still. . .
GREAT VIDEO AND GREATLY NEEDED,especially around here. I watched my neighbors house get built and the sheathing install was so bad. They would cut pieces to fit above and below the windows and around the windows only very few full sheets were installed.
It seems like California really complicated everything. I live in Virginia and my uncle is a builder in San Diego. He was explaining the concept of shear walls to me and I was confused. Now I realize it’s just a well-built wall with sheathing… great info about all the specs, I’ll be using some lingo I learned here to impress customers 😅 while the industry standard is to be rude and not communicate with clients
I framed for 24 years and when I started out we were letting in diagonal 1 x 6 permanent bracing into a number of our interior bearing and non bearing walls. Then it went to metal T bracing and then as I started working on panel homes I didn't even see that. I've gotten out of framing because of back issues and now I just repair homes. However on one occasion after the roof was sheathed and all of the braces were pulled I was standing in the middle of the hall in a doorway and was able to rock the whole frame side to side. I
my whole life I did sheathing horizontally. then 3 years ago I switched from residential to commercial work and now almost always we do the sheathing vertically.
The first video happened in Galveston Texas. Their mistake while building was not putting plywood on the exterior walls. Never go to the next level without plywood on the exterior to tie levels together. Without exterior plywood it is very easy for the structure to start racking. Bracing, straps and clips do not stop what you saw. I have seen three other houses in Galveston this year get blown over, none had plywood on the exterior. In our coastal climate with storms we do end up shearing 80% of the interior walls, but we can’t do it until electrical,plumbing and insulation are done.
Here in Washington state most the projects I’ve worked on required .148x2 3/8” nails for any designated shear wall. Also if the nailing Pattern is tighter than 6” and 12” a 3x stud is required at the plywood edge as well as a staggered nailing pattern into the double top plate so both plates are nailed. Most of the multi-story wood frame apartments I’ve done will have an earth bound hold down at each end of the shear wall which consists of a continuous rod that is coupled together and terminates midway on the final floor. At each floor the rod is held down by a steel plate and an auto take down which compensates for the inevitable shrinking of the wood.
When attaching sheathing, wouldn't it be better to use taller panels and have them overlap the main floor rim joist and use the upper level sheets to overlap from the first floor walls past the 2nd floor (or attic floor) rim joist and the roof truss ends? That way the sheathing ties everything together which will aide in resisting shear forces but also wind uplift on the roof overhangs.
Sometimes the ply/OSB panels do splice at the rim, it can be an efficient way to pass the lateral loads from a floor above to the shear wall below. Other times the forces are structurally passed through the framing members (plate/rim/plate) with nails, screws, and/or clips, so simply attaching the ply/OSB to the plates works as they're already joined together as a structural component in terms of those lateral forces. Uplift forces are usually dealt with via a continuous load path of hardware- large continuous straps and/or hold down pairings from shear wall to shear wall.
yes, but go look at the current labor force and ask them why they arent overlapping the bands. they are clueless and the inspectors do not demand to see it. is all a farce of supposed engineering that is not being utilised as designed.
The most amazing thing: people knew this 1000 years ago. Some wood frame buildings from 700 years ago are still standing in central Europe. Our house is 400 years old and just looking at the design it shows, how much technology was involved, without a single machine. Diagonal beams ensure stability. The removal of these beams in the 40s and 70s caused the building to move. We now started to rebuild it and stabilize the frame further. The pretty European wood frame houses don't look like they do only because it looks good, most of it is simply functional. Place the diagonal beams the other way and it will be unstable. Oh, the entire outer framing is oak wood, no metal was used. It is not like they didn't have it: the clay coating on the inside was partially held in place with hand-made nails.
Here in Norway we typically use exterior grade drywall (Where the paper on the drywall is a Tyvek house wrap) or let in braces with a house wrap for sheathing. Because OSB doesn't breathe enough. No earthquakes to worry about here.
We don't want our houses to "breathe". We are building tight so we can manage the ventilation. Think of it this way, our bodies "breathe" through our mouth and nose, not our skin. This is much more efficient in construction because then we can filter the air and recovery heat from the air. It also means we keep clean air in and pollutants out.
@@AwesomeFramers Yes, but moisture should be able to leave the wall cavity. The house wrap allows moisture to leave the wall, but not for it to enter from the outside. How well it allows moisture to exit varies. OSB is nearly completely air tight (and can even be used as a vapour barrier on the inside in some cases). So we don't use OSB sheathing because of that. OSB has a vapour resistance of about 1 sD, while exterior drywall is 0,08 and a good housewrap can be as little as 0,03. The vapour barrier will never be perfect, and if someone hangs something on an exterior wall with a molly fastener or similar they'll make a big hole in it. Then inside air will enter the wall and form condensation. It's like wearing a rubber raincoat vs. gore tex jacket. In the raincoat you'll end up soaking with sweat, with the gore tex you'll be comfortable. This is probably less important in the US because you usually have thinner walls and a milder climate.
@@AwesomeFramers In Canada, we have similar building practices to Norway because a major issue in cold climates is when moisture gets trapped inside the wall cavity. So a lot of effort is put into ensuring ventilation to the exterior. It also means during the summer months, our wall insulation is less efficient because it's specifically designed to hold heat inside the building.
@Kefillix We don't use drywall on the exterior of walls in Canada. However, we do use poly vapour barrier on the inside of walls to help push moisture to the exterior & prevent it being trapped inside the wall cavity so it only has 1 way to go. Another big concern is leakage of hot air across the ceiling perimeter into the roof space, where it causes ice damming at the eaves due to the process of melting & re-freezing. Having good roof ventilation is usually the key to prevention. But there are other preventative methods too.
@@TwistyTrav I think we are talking similar. Breathe isn't the same as ventilation. Some people don't want to tighten up the envelope so the house "breathes" but really we want to tighten and manage ventilation
Thank you for the demonstrating important but rare to find topic-Shear Wall. Two question for discussion 1) Does a vault ceiling sunroom, proposed in Cary, North Carolina, total 18 feet wide gable end and total 13 feet 6 inches long ridge beam, built on 6x6 posts and framing for fireplace, etc, still need a minimum 16 inch shear wall at the corners on both directions? 2) How about for any other size sunroom built only on 6x6 posts and beam, do they need minimum shear wall corners? Thank you.
Thank you, that was very informative. I had never realize that orientation of plywood plays a role or can't be just changed from vertical to horizontal with additional measures. I'll do my homework on that subject as I'm gonna be using 8 foot tall plywood on a 10 foot wall and will have to cut a 2 foot tall section to complete full height and there might be some tricky aspects that i haven't thought from the structural perspective a s to plywood orientation properties (I'm not building in the US by the way so not subjected to the same code requirements)
Dude, you got the knack for this! I mean the vids and youtube and making stuff understandable. For civilians, the rookies and the leadmen. Lotta guys know exactly what your talkin about but could never articulate it as well as you do. THAT knack😁 As far as swingin hammers, you guys are as good as it gets. Anywhere. Id apprentice under you for two years at 10 bucks an hour just to soak up rules, tricks and tips. Keep em comin man, they are appreciated. Gives us old dudes someone to steer the youngers to as well. They wanna learn but get sick of hearin us hollerin at em so you can fill that gap
Dear engineers, 3" perimiter is too closely spaced. When applied perfectly its fine, when applied by typical florida framing crews with some overshooting, and some tight spacing in fear of a nitpicking inspector, well it seems like a "tear here" perforated line. I've seen failed inspections pass after someone went back and shot between each nail. An inch of grace to account for human error would give a stronger end product AND eliminate a lot of headaches.
Is a shear wall the same thing as a braced wall? I'm building an addition and my engineer is asking for continuously sheathed wood structural panels across my whole addition. It's just a 1 story great room with a cathedral ceiling. Thanks!
no, the APA has a great webinar on this. I the IRC they are called braced walls, in the IBC shear walls. Continuously sheathing has a lot of advantages and saves money on the engineering side. www.apawood.org/fully-sheathed-walls
I'm a structural engineer! This video was great, and thank you for also sharing the different screenshots from the NDS publications as well! I love it!
I'm a german engineer and call this typ of framing BS! Make triangles! Pfff...
@@mostylz7618 German engineers over-engineer everything. At some point you need to draw a line and say "enough is enough, that'll work just fine." But the Germans I know and work with are still solving a problem I fixed perfectly fine a long time ago. I guess that's why their part of the company is going out of business...
@@byugrad1024 Yeah, well, no! Our houses don't fall apart when there is a little bit of wind, which you call a storm. And without the stuff you stole after WWII you wouldn't had the great 50's/60's. You even wouldn't have proper rockets without a German. And maybe you just don't saw the problem you caused with your solution, which might be good enough for american standards. And sadly Germany has become more and more American over the years, that's why we're not that good anymore, I have to admit. I'm one of the last German Diploma Engineers. Now we have these Master and Bachelor BS. Multiple Choice tests... Made by and for idiots, to create more idiots.
@@byugrad1024listen bruh as an American all you can do is put ur negative iq head down and keep walking Germans are like gods compared to you 😂😂
@@mostylz7618finally someone putting the lowlifes in they place these western scum that don’t know how to read been talking too much trying to look intelligent
Next thing you hear from this shill is gona be
WE WON WWII
Nah biach you didn’t win shiz you joined the war after Russia won it
I work in demolition and you are making my job REALLY difficult. Thanks.
You're very welcome 😉
Man this comment is so underrated hahahaha
demolition SUCKSSSSSS AHHHHHHH lol Good comment.
Come to Arizona the houses here are styrofoam they'll come down pretty easily.
more difficult means more money
I am a carpenter and home inspector for about 40 years. You did a nice simple job of explaining the system
I saw a couple houses collapse in my time as a builder by other builders. It was always from new crews who didn’t understand that you can’t rely on braces to hold an entire house with roof set. Sheathing and decking are your friend, sooner rather than later! Good video.
22 years GC in Minnesota we have never started second story without sheathing the first floor
@chartedtravel1776 apparently you value your life.
Thank you for the education. Met with a structural engineer last week to verify load bearing wall and received a significant education that I wish I had received decades ago. Wish I'd have taken my education more seriously and followed engineering.
Excellent vid! I'm a retired architect (with 3 years structural engineering at university and 9 years hands-on construction experience). You explained the basic concepts in accessible, layman terms. This is important as many builders and framers are more likely to watch vids from a framer, understand the concepts and incorporate this knowledge in their work. Thank you!
I’m a licensed structural engineer in California. This video is fantastic. Great work!
Thanks! I did a lot of research and tried not to step out of my area of knowledge.
This is good for those in construction management or going to school to become a builder to watch during a break 👍
And why the state claim ? As if you think calif has better codes or some other crazy crap
@@jeffbarron5500 your statement doesn't logically follow. California is known for strict earthquake design. All homes there have shear walls and carpenter's need training.
I took his compliment as a huge compliment.
@@jeffbarron5500 Not sure about Oregon, but CA and WA normally use the same version of the IBC as a baseline code. CA has the CBC with special ‘A’ chapters used for public school and hospital projects that go under special review (DSA & HCAI, respectively). We’re not better, we just have to deal with famously difficult plan checkers depending on the type of work you get into. Because of this you end up being well-versed in lateral force-resisting systems.
Didn’t mean to come across as demeaning or anything. Cheers!
You're a true teacher and not just a talker. Very informative and helpful. Thank You!
Thanks for staying on site after work hours to educate us. That was incredibly helpful.
Great stuff. I've been designing homes for over 30 years and have built several in that time, and I was always taught/told that the sheathing should go perpendicular to the studs. This was very enlightening. Thanks for the mini tutorial! Never too old to learn new things.
@H2s Yes, perpendicular. That has been the standard here for as long as I can remember. I'm not saying this is right or wrong, just what we have been doing for the past several decades, based on our code requirements. And we don't put backing on the long edges (hope that doesn't blow your mind too much). I like the idea of limiting the long edges being on the studs, if only for limiting moisture infiltration.
I've run into old-school guys who learned that, especially with 5-ply plywood. They know the plywood veneer sandwich has three layers running the 8' direction and only 2 going perpendicular to those, so they want to line up the three layers with the horizontal forces.
But this is not understanding that the horizontal forces in turn create equal vertical forces as well, so orientation of the sheet goods doesn't matter.
I built a house with one older guy who insisted we attach the panels horizontally and install blocking at 4'. It was a tall wall too, we had to add two rows of blocking. I was paid by the hour, and it was this GC's own house, so after pushing back a little I just did what he wanted, even though I knew it was wasted time.
The quick reply to explain it is that the forces around the perimeter of each nailed piece of ply, the horizontal and vertical forces, are exactly the same on all 4 edges, so, (structurally) it doesn't matter which orientation you use.
You put your edge nailing at 6&12 (or whatever) on the 4' edges just the same as on the long edges of the ply/OSB. That's because the load you're resisting is the same at the horizontal edges and at the vertical edges.
It's a little counterintuitive, because in our minds, we're mostly thinking about restraining sideways forces. But those sideways forces create vertical forces (as seen in the overturning) so it's all the same structurally, and it's far more efficient to place the panels upright.
It can if you block but it’s inefficient
Perpendicular ties more studs together - making stronger walls.
"More efficient" does not always equate to endurance.
@h2s142 studs run vertical sheeting runs horizontal, if you run it horizontal you have no business building
Great presentation. Just learning the terms (Overturning, Racking, and Base Shear) is helpful in understanding better and being able to describe what most of us intuitively know. Construction is full of urban legends regarding the code and engineering. It is wonderful to get the straight scoop from PEs on how various forces act upon structures rather than the BS at lunchtime when framers pontificate about science.
Very true about the field nails holding the panel to the framing! I had a project framed with Zip System sheathing where the sheathing got a little wet during construction, and buckled in or out between each stud up to 1/2" in deflection. But the sheet itself stayed firmly attached to the studs.
This would be a great practical video to show in an intro to statics engineering course. Very nice example with the simple starting wall. Then get into the individual and total nail shear forces, so nerdy! Love it.
0215 and I just sat through an excellent video on shear walls, and learned a lot of new information & terminology. My day is going well already.
I live 30min off the coast in Texas. My framer installed 2 shear walls in my home. 3/4” plywood and bolted in the slab. It is relatively cheap to do this and adds so much safety and security.
Hope y'all used hurricane strapping through out as code demands.
@@terryanderson4366 corner straps from within the foundation, wall straps, ceiling joist straps, if a hurricane takes our home it will be attached to the foundation…
I live on the Texas coast. We have metal strapping running diagonally under the sheetrock for a shear wall.
@@terryanderson4366 We have about 300 lbs of hurricane strapping.
@@jbratt Yes, the engineered house is strapped from the roof rafters to the corners. If our house blows away during a hurricane it’s taking the slab with it.
Great video and information. As a licensed contractor I am currently working on a insuarance claim where the sheeting was installed improperly and a wind storm racked the entire home. Definitely a very important part of the building process and easily overlooked.
could you explain how did improper nailing lead to the whole house racking? what did they do wrong?
Just found this video and subbed. I just learned about these various forces. I built a small 4 x 8 raised deck to catch rainwater in barrels on. I braced it figuring I'd have racking either from back to front or from side to side. A light rain easily filled the barrels. Roughly 450 pounds of water in each 55 gallon barrel. I thought 2 x 4s I had left over would work. Nope! A couple 2 x 6s seems to have worked. No more racking.
I have a lot more to learn! 👍🇺🇸🍀
Great stuff. I am building a cabin with my son and we are standing up the walls tomorrow. Wanted a refresher before we sheathed them.
One of the best videos and most knowledgeable I have seen. Thank you for your great work. you are a awesome framer. God Bless
Nice info! Thank you. People need to calculate the forces "during" construction too, not just the final building.
I would love to work for someone like this. This is how you teach the right way
Amen
Not once did he call me names or did I have to smell cigs in my face. 10/10 working with this chap
How did I think the exact same thing?
I survived Hurricane Andrew and then drove back down to my house, in South Miami Heights from NW 41st Street. Most homes built using cinder blocks construction survived. One housing development of 3000 homes, Lennar I think, gone. wiped of the map. I saw entire homes of cinder block gone. Roofs missing on some. Others, not a frickin’ scratch on them. O lived in a Quad townhome set up, Mine unit was on the west side, I had an 4’x5’ Plate glass above my front door. It had a 6” crack in it. My unit had zero damage. no leaks, nothing. The people behind my unit that were facing east? They got wiped out, so did their neighbor facing east. My neighbor facing west, got damaged because of his east facing neighbor. The guy across the street from me, A soccer coach at FIU, je had just spent $30,000 on nee Scandinavian furniture, custom furniture. It was beautiful wood working! GONE! It belonged to Andrew and his mansion in the sky. What a mind blowing nightmare Andrew was. The closest any non combatant will ever come to what a combat zone looks like. Any seriously damaging hurricane. Sorry. Reliving those moments.
Very helpful...we were thinking about getting a tile roof...very heavy, and after watching this, I think that might not be a great idea here in earthquake country. Thank you so much.
I think this video will go far and good for lots of self starters to understand what they are really dealing with
The best video on this!!!!!!!! Thank you!!!! References, clear, examples. . GREAT VIDEO!!
My parents built their house out of Cinder blocks all the other neighbors thought they were crazy. A decade of hurricanes and their house is still standing strong. The neighbors have had whole walls blown in Their roof sagged because it was made out of particle wood.. My parents demanded no particle board. Yet the neighbors house is worth more on the market because it's slightly bigger and has a pool. I'd roll with the cinderblock house all day.
Particle wood or OSB? OSB is very strong.
cinder blocks are useless in an earthquake unless they are reinforced by metal flexible rebarb, wood flexes just make sure your house is bolted to the foundation
@twostop6895 true, but generally speaking, if your building to defend against hurricanes, earthquakes aren't a factor in your area.
Shut up
@@nonconsensualopinionI personally still don't like OSB. Once the water hits it, it's finished pretty quick. Plus it's way heavier than ply
You’re a terrific teacher. Really appreciate the video! Well deserved sub
This was so awesome!!!!!!!!!!! I literally am using this video to help me for my California Seismic Engineering Exam. Thank you so much for breaking this down so that I can understand it better!
That was very educational. Can you produce another video showing a house blueprint and where these shear walls would be required?
In michigan we're required a "braced wall panel" section. It shows the floor plan, in a simpler form, and highlights or darkens the specific sheer panel areas. Here it's typically 4' on each corner of the wall and next to large openings. It will then specify the type of panel bracing. Walls with huge openings (think garage walls) will typically be portal framed ; cs-pf, dpf, or pfh.
Usually it's the exterior walls and some interior walls set at right angles. Eg in SF for earthquake resistance: our house has an interior "spine" wall that runs the length of the house and carries a lot of the roof and second floor joist load. Then a few of the interior walls perpendicular to the lengthwise "spine" are 2x6 shear walls. They act to prevent the main spine wall from moving in its weakest direction (perpendicular to the wall length). Actually it's all connected because the spine does the same for the exterior side walls while the shear walls brace the front and back exterior. So it all locks together... as you'd expect.
Our garage also has a huge beam and footings to prevent the 1.5 car wide door from being a weak point (aka the "soft story" problem).
As someone looking to build my own house and only hire out plumbing & electrical, this is very helpful.
This is an awesome video. It really helps visualize the theory behind shear walls. Thank you for putting it together.
Great video…made a ton of sense. I’m just a homeowner but I’m trying to educate myself on this stuff so thanks! 👍
I’ll be showing this to new-hire engineers as a great example of basic shear wall construction.
The only input I have is that moment frames are not subsets of shears walls. They are two different types of lateral force resisting systems (i.e. braced frames, moment frames, shear walls). They use different design methods with different seismic loads on the structure. But this isn’t a video on moment frames 😅, so very well done! 👍🏼
Thanks for the presentation. I like your oversized OSB wrench in the backround.
Wow, very, very educational. Saved to favorites for future use on my Desert Homestead. Thank You!
I need to hear Timmy sing I Saw The Sign by Ace Of Base on the next one😂. Seriously.. really enjoy the videos. I’m no framer, just concrete forms and finisher but I’ve learned so much watching. Seen you guys doing your own footings as well🫡. Take care fellas
Thank you for using the terminology. I love the breakdown
Holy crap! Im getting a shear wall installed in my house immediately.
Its amazing on that entry video how there was obviously no sheathing on the walls or roof, but was there any kind of temp bracing even applied? I do remember years ago when framers were only required to sheath the corners, which was just wrong. Great video, from one builder to the next, keep em coming bro!
I'm amazed for how long after the 1906 quake they still allowed garbage construction methods in the SF Bay Area. Soft story buildings (first floor all parking so the whole front face is only supported on a couple of steel poles with no interior walls... a great recipe for collapse) were still being built into the 1980s IIRC.
Or lots of SFHs with a crawl space with no sheathing (the half height crawl space walls love to collapse just like shown in this video). Still built this way into the 80s.
Huge 12" redwood beams just toe-nailed onto their posts. Way too few anchor bolts. Not sure when this stopped but when we rented the 1939 house (long after 1906) was built this way - long after they should have known better.
Great video! Of course, I'm kind of a need.
monocoque support for the lower levels before adding loads to the upper levels. Good tutorial.
This is a good video for framers in the south they put all the walls up and then scaffold outside and put the sheathing on after. Guys can be crushed. It takes 3 times as long to build also if you don't put the plywood on before you raise the walls.
Great explanation! Every framer and framer/carpenter wannabe ought to be watching your vids!
Nice info, and GREAT video of shear failures!
What would be super helpful is if Huber would stock longer Zip panels (and various Advantech flooring) in Canada. I can’t tell you how nice it would have been to have 10’ Zip and 1-1/8” Advantech available locally… I had to import my floor sheathing from NY myself, a major PITA. Maybe you can pass this along to Huber? 😁
I haven't found it in stock near upper MI either. Pretty sure it'll be a special order for me. That's a conversation I have yet to have. But it'll be worth it to save not only on the extra blocking, but also the resultant thermal bridging. Sure it's a drop in the bucket, but still. . .
GREAT VIDEO AND GREATLY NEEDED,especially around here. I watched my neighbors house get built and the sheathing install was so bad. They would cut pieces to fit above and below the windows and around the windows only very few full sheets were installed.
It seems like California really complicated everything. I live in Virginia and my uncle is a builder in San Diego. He was explaining the concept of shear walls to me and I was confused. Now I realize it’s just a well-built wall with sheathing… great info about all the specs, I’ll be using some lingo I learned here to impress customers 😅 while the industry standard is to be rude and not communicate with clients
Gracias por la explicación salí de muchas dudas es de mucha ayuda se te agradece
Thanks for the Great information and explanation. Thump up from Thailand.
At the end common sense and long talk short. Thank you for knowledge
Where can I learn basic building skills? This seems like a good place to start. The video is fantastic BTW, and very informative.
Very useful. Thank you for taking the time to make this video.
dude this was insanely helpful
really? I was hoping it would but never know. Thanks for the feedback.
Great content. I know most of this general information but it is nice seeing it in application.
Awesome video from a structural engineer
Very useful information you guys must be awesome framers thanks homie👊
I framed for 24 years and when I started out we were letting in diagonal 1 x 6 permanent bracing into a number of our interior bearing and non bearing walls.
Then it went to metal T bracing and then as I started working on panel homes I didn't even see that.
I've gotten out of framing because of back issues and now I just repair homes. However on one occasion after the roof was sheathed and all of the braces were pulled I was standing in the middle of the hall in a doorway and was able to rock the whole frame side to side. I
This was the best! Thank you so very much.
Thanks sooo much for this vid! Well done guys
Im from the UK, we just go for masonry walls, good luck getting those to fall over once built..
90% of this is common sense stuff my dad taught me. ❤
my whole life I did sheathing horizontally. then 3 years ago I switched from residential to commercial work and now almost always we do the sheathing vertically.
The first video happened in Galveston Texas. Their mistake while building was not putting plywood on the exterior walls. Never go to the next level without plywood on the exterior to tie levels together. Without exterior plywood it is very easy for the structure to start racking. Bracing, straps and clips do not stop what you saw. I have seen three other houses in Galveston this year get blown over, none had plywood on the exterior. In our coastal climate with storms we do end up shearing 80% of the interior walls, but we can’t do it until electrical,plumbing and insulation are done.
From a complete layman, wow this was a good video.
Here in Washington state most the projects I’ve worked on required .148x2 3/8” nails for any designated shear wall. Also if the nailing Pattern is tighter than 6” and 12” a 3x stud is required at the plywood edge as well as a staggered nailing pattern into the double top plate so both plates are nailed. Most of the multi-story wood frame apartments I’ve done will have an earth bound hold down at each end of the shear wall which consists of a continuous rod that is coupled together and terminates midway on the final floor. At each floor the rod is held down by a steel plate and an auto take down which compensates for the inevitable shrinking of the wood.
very nicely explained and critical information
Thank you, Tim!!! Liked#159 and Subscribed!!!
When attaching sheathing, wouldn't it be better to use taller panels and have them overlap the main floor rim joist and use the upper level sheets to overlap from the first floor walls past the 2nd floor (or attic floor) rim joist and the roof truss ends? That way the sheathing ties everything together which will aide in resisting shear forces but also wind uplift on the roof overhangs.
There is a great response to this question below 👍
Sometimes the ply/OSB panels do splice at the rim, it can be an efficient way to pass the lateral loads from a floor above to the shear wall below. Other times the forces are structurally passed through the framing members (plate/rim/plate) with nails, screws, and/or clips, so simply attaching the ply/OSB to the plates works as they're already joined together as a structural component in terms of those lateral forces.
Uplift forces are usually dealt with via a continuous load path of hardware- large continuous straps and/or hold down pairings from shear wall to shear wall.
yes, but go look at the current labor force and ask them why they arent overlapping the bands.
they are clueless and the inspectors do not demand to see it.
is all a farce of supposed engineering that is not being utilised as designed.
Thanks for the video!! I loved the info
Awesome video
Great explanation. The intro videos will now give me nightmares as I begin framing!😲
First class video! 👍
I learned so much, thank you
Wow, what a superintelligent man.
The most amazing thing: people knew this 1000 years ago. Some wood frame buildings from 700 years ago are still standing in central Europe.
Our house is 400 years old and just looking at the design it shows, how much technology was involved, without a single machine.
Diagonal beams ensure stability. The removal of these beams in the 40s and 70s caused the building to move. We now started to rebuild it and stabilize the frame further. The pretty European wood frame houses don't look like they do only because it looks good, most of it is simply functional. Place the diagonal beams the other way and it will be unstable.
Oh, the entire outer framing is oak wood, no metal was used. It is not like they didn't have it: the clay coating on the inside was partially held in place with hand-made nails.
So excellent to provide this clear explanation for everyon!
Fabulous video ty so much for teaching me in an easy to understand format 👍
Here in Norway we typically use exterior grade drywall (Where the paper on the drywall is a Tyvek house wrap) or let in braces with a house wrap for sheathing. Because OSB doesn't breathe enough. No earthquakes to worry about here.
We don't want our houses to "breathe". We are building tight so we can manage the ventilation. Think of it this way, our bodies "breathe" through our mouth and nose, not our skin. This is much more efficient in construction because then we can filter the air and recovery heat from the air. It also means we keep clean air in and pollutants out.
@@AwesomeFramers Yes, but moisture should be able to leave the wall cavity. The house wrap allows moisture to leave the wall, but not for it to enter from the outside. How well it allows moisture to exit varies. OSB is nearly completely air tight (and can even be used as a vapour barrier on the inside in some cases). So we don't use OSB sheathing because of that. OSB has a vapour resistance of about 1 sD, while exterior drywall is 0,08 and a good housewrap can be as little as 0,03.
The vapour barrier will never be perfect, and if someone hangs something on an exterior wall with a molly fastener or similar they'll make a big hole in it. Then inside air will enter the wall and form condensation.
It's like wearing a rubber raincoat vs. gore tex jacket. In the raincoat you'll end up soaking with sweat, with the gore tex you'll be comfortable.
This is probably less important in the US because you usually have thinner walls and a milder climate.
@@AwesomeFramers In Canada, we have similar building practices to Norway because a major issue in cold climates is when moisture gets trapped inside the wall cavity. So a lot of effort is put into ensuring ventilation to the exterior. It also means during the summer months, our wall insulation is less efficient because it's specifically designed to hold heat inside the building.
@Kefillix We don't use drywall on the exterior of walls in Canada. However, we do use poly vapour barrier on the inside of walls to help push moisture to the exterior & prevent it being trapped inside the wall cavity so it only has 1 way to go. Another big concern is leakage of hot air across the ceiling perimeter into the roof space, where it causes ice damming at the eaves due to the process of melting & re-freezing. Having good roof ventilation is usually the key to prevention. But there are other preventative methods too.
@@TwistyTrav I think we are talking similar. Breathe isn't the same as ventilation. Some people don't want to tighten up the envelope so the house "breathes" but really we want to tighten and manage ventilation
Excellent intro. Thank you.
Well done! Easy to understand.
Thank you for the demonstrating important but rare to find topic-Shear Wall. Two question for discussion 1) Does a vault ceiling sunroom, proposed in Cary, North Carolina, total 18 feet wide gable end and total 13 feet 6 inches long ridge beam, built on 6x6 posts and framing for fireplace, etc, still need a minimum 16 inch shear wall at the corners on both directions? 2) How about for any other size sunroom built only on 6x6 posts and beam, do they need minimum shear wall corners? Thank you.
Thank you, that was very informative. I had never realize that orientation of plywood plays a role or can't be just changed from vertical to horizontal with additional measures. I'll do my homework on that subject as I'm gonna be using 8 foot tall plywood on a 10 foot wall and will have to cut a 2 foot tall section to complete full height and there might be some tricky aspects that i haven't thought from the structural perspective a s to plywood orientation properties (I'm not building in the US by the way so not subjected to the same code requirements)
This was a great video. Worth watching more than once.
Dude, you got the knack for this! I mean the vids and youtube and making stuff understandable. For civilians, the rookies and the leadmen. Lotta guys know exactly what your talkin about but could never articulate it as well as you do. THAT knack😁 As far as swingin hammers, you guys are as good as it gets. Anywhere. Id apprentice under you for two years at 10 bucks an hour just to soak up rules, tricks and tips. Keep em comin man, they are appreciated. Gives us old dudes someone to steer the youngers to as well. They wanna learn but get sick of hearin us hollerin at em so you can fill that gap
Good stuff
Awesome 📐🔨
Great video. Thank you.
Excelente video saludos 👍👌
Great video.
Very good video. Thanks.
Great stuff. Thanks 🙏
This was really informative.
Awesome info
Wow! Glad you made the video.
Thank you...very informative.
Just wondering what the large wrench made out of wood leaning up against the wall is used for? Good video.
OMG too funny and great question! 👍🏼😁
flipping over big long beams when glueing/nailing them together or when cutting the ends off to size@@ZenDreaming60
Great, informative video!
Excellent video. Really appreciate it.
This video was great.
Dear engineers, 3" perimiter is too closely spaced. When applied perfectly its fine, when applied by typical florida framing crews with some overshooting, and some tight spacing in fear of a nitpicking inspector, well it seems like a "tear here" perforated line. I've seen failed inspections pass after someone went back and shot between each nail. An inch of grace to account for human error would give a stronger end product AND eliminate a lot of headaches.
Is a shear wall the same thing as a braced wall? I'm building an addition and my engineer is asking for continuously sheathed wood structural panels across my whole addition. It's just a 1 story great room with a cathedral ceiling. Thanks!
no, the APA has a great webinar on this. I the IRC they are called braced walls, in the IBC shear walls. Continuously sheathing has a lot of advantages and saves money on the engineering side. www.apawood.org/fully-sheathed-walls
@@AwesomeFramers that's what I thought. Thank you. I'm in the Midwest so we don't have to deal with seismic loads.