How To Replace A Grundfos Central Heating Pump 15/50 15/60
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- Опубликовано: 5 июн 2024
- Today we are going to cover how to replace a faulty central heating pump. This is a fairly easy task to do given you follow the advice on the video, If you are unsure at any point during the video then do not hesitate to call a professional to complete the job for you.
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Grundfos UPS2 15/50/60 - amzn.to/3dqSsBo
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Thanks for this video Dan, just used it to replace my pump. :)
Really nice clear video - thanks
A good job everytime!!!!! 😘🥰
Thank you
Hi, thanks for that useful video !
Do you think I can replace a UPS 20-45 by a UP 20-45 N 150 if the measurements match? I guess the difference is the variable speed?
Thanks again :)
I would undo 4 bolts holding pump body and turned so its facing right way up looks more professional job.
Excellent tip Peter and one to take on board 👍🏻👌🏻
Great video, I have a leak on my parents pump (alpha2 15/60 130w) and trying to find the right size seal / gasket for the inlet/outlet, any chance you can advise the right size as I am getting mixed results from 1 1/2” - 1 3/4” and the Grundfos website is pretty useless..thanks
Do you mean the pump valve washers? If so then they’re 1 3/4. Hope this helps 👍🏻
Good video. I was interested in the noise that the pump makes. I've recently had the same pump fitted and it makes a similar noise. I was concerned it might be faulty. I guess it's just the sound of the water flowing through it?
Just make sure there is no air in the system, it should be running nice and smooth
Are these pumps good for clearing air locks? I have a problem on a Y plan pump has gone due to air being stuck in the system
Relatively easy just work the speeds and vent the pump correctly 👍🏻
Good, helpful video, Dan! Thanks. I have removed and replaced a Grundfos UPS 15-50 130 central heating pump with an Alpha 2L 15-50 Grundfos (obtained April 2019 via ebay for £30 + £7.90 p&p)and noticed that the "righty- tighty" rule [00:51] does not seem to apply to the large pump nuts (not the valves) which, by the way, need an adjustable spanner, footprint or pliers with at least 50mm jaw gaps. Perhaps, you might have highlighted this for novices like me who need things spelling out in more detail. The large screw on the left side of the pump body loosens the opposite way to the right side (your hand movements seem to show this). Now, I have a problem with removing the new pump (for draining down the sludge via the pump pipework as the hose method causes backflow leaks to my kitchen floor. The right hand nut won't loosen (despite copious WD40 applied over several days) and the pump rotates with the direction of the force applied. I have tightened the smaller screws/nuts under the valves, and put an immovable force, i.e. part of the old pump (lol) on a metal waste bin under the newer pump, but cannot stop it moving upwards. Any advice? I'm desperate, Dan (couldn't resist, hahah) or anyone? Should I heat the screw with a hairdryer, for example?
I personally never apply too much head with blowlamps or any other sources, personally I would drain head off or down to where you need and replace the whole lot it will save any more issues and it will need doing sooner rather than later by the sounds of it. In some cases it's better to bite the bullet and do a full replacement rather than a touch up of you understand what I'm saying 👍🏻
There are no left hand threads on typical plumbing parts and certainly not these pump nuts! Lefty loosey and righty tighty still applies but not when an item is upside down obviously! The rule is when looking down on top of the nut.. if it is upside down as with the lower nut in the video you have to imagine looking up from underneath or just reverse the 'rule' in your head. Yes it can be confusing but Dan is still correct.
I too found this really useful.. in the I had to replace the pump vales as they would not isolated at the pump so had to drain down the system. I also took the time to replace the faulty TRV valves whilst drained... I replace the inhibitor loss and refilled the system. Getting air out of the system on refill took over 3 hours but it is all toasty in the house now and a lot quieter with the new pump. I had a Grundfos Selectric and the UP3 i a direct replacement to it.
Would I be able to have two power feeds going into a single central heating pump … one for the gas boiler and a second off a manual switch for the multi fuel stove… both feeds would never be on at the same time
Thanks for your videos Dan. Im having problems with our radiators. Non downstairs are heating up, some a couple are getting WARM upstairs. The pump is running and have drained all radiations for air (also water at bottom) The pump is so hot you cant touch it and was wondering if its a good thing to change out or if it sounds like a blockage?
It sounds to me like the motor on the pump has burnt out, without looking the system I'm not 100% Sur of course. I would get a professional to check it over or grab yourself a new head and swap it out 👍🏻
@@DoItAllDan We are getting hot water in all the taps so do you think the pump would be problem? In your opinion could it be the Diverter Valve...?
It could be a couple of reasons if I'm understanding it correctly, make sure no pipes are touching (hot and cold supply), check the thermostat on the immersion heater if you have one, if it's a combi boiler (diverter) also any motorised valves of u have any. I would have the system checked over 👍🏻
Going to attempt replacing the pump for the same version from ebay. Inwas wondering what the two metal bits are called which you tighten up to stop it leaking? I have seen on a few videos after replacing the pump it can cause problems with them
Do you mean the brass fittings either side? They’re called pump valves 👍🏻
@@DoItAllDan I got the replacement pump and the tops are not perfectly smooth (looks like silver spray or putty are been applied) unsure what that could be but was worried the seals on top wouldn't give a perfect seal or is that normal? Thanks in advance
Good video, our central heating has started making a knocking noise and I am reasonably confident that it is coming from the pump, I've tried bleeding it but that didn't help so thinking I should replace the pump, I'm not sure how old it is but we've owned the house for nearly six years. Do replacement pumps typically come with new washers?
Yes they do come with new washers 👍🏻
Hi, I have 2 upstairs radiators and 3 downstairs radiators . I am having to close the upstairs Trvs for the downstairs radiators to heat up. Do think this is a pump problem ? I have the same pump.
There are no cold spots in the rawhen they heat up.
It could well be a pump issue yes, depending on your system set up etc. make sure there are no restrictions etc also. But I would assume the pump.
Do you need to switch off power off to do that
Check if the pond is spinning
No 👍🏻
"Righty tighty " ? - so are you to hold the spanner at the 12 o clock direction and move to the right? or the 6 o clock position and move it to the right ? or if it is at 3 o clock or 6 o clock you can't move it to the right your hand would slide along the spanner
You’re seriously over thinking this, hold with grips and turn the nut clockwise. 👍🏻
When you replaced the pump I didn’t see the electric wire attached to it. You mention rehousing the electrical cable but when you attack the new pump to the valves the wire is not shown as connected. When and how is that then attached to the pump. Thank you.
Just a quick job of wiring in live neutral and earth 👍🏻
Easier to just replace the head ,four Allen bolts and cheaper.
Excellent point
Do we have to shut water off? Drain water heater? Turn water heater off?
Turn off and isolate valves, 👍🏻