AkzoNobel 463-12-8 Epoxy Primer. A chemically cured, two-component epoxy primer designed to provide maximum protection from various chemicals, hydraulic fluids, aviation fuels, phosphate ester (Skydrol) fluids and corrosion causing media
Many thanks for the video. I'm building an RV-14A and was not sure if all elevator rib tabs are not to be dimpled. It looks as though you did not dimple them. You do a fantastic job explaining things in your videos which leads me to believe you may be a professor (good/enjoys teaching things to others). I just bought the same hydraulic squeezer but haven't used it for dimpling get. I believe I will give it a try. Thanks again for your videos. RWG
Thank you for the kind words! If I remember correctly, I *did* dimple the ribs where they connect to the skins (I don’t film everything…). I would read the instructions carefully - something I don’t always do which leads to me getting continually burned…
Thanks, though I think there are better build videos (and even better: blogs) that explain how things work. I'm aiming for semi-entertaining more than how-to.
It's different from countersinking in that you aren't removing material for the flush rivet to be even with the surface of the skin. Rather, your are, well, dimpling the material. This means there is a recess on the surface (which is what you would get with a countersink) but also a protrusion on the other side (which you would not get with a countersink). The skins are generally too thin to countersink. However, there is a lot of countersinking on thicker materials. Does this make sense? Check this out for more info: www.kitplanes.com/best-practices-solid-rivets/
@@buildingthe10 okay, awesome, that's a good explanation and I appreciate the response. Sounds like two different procedures, but the underlying purpose is the same: allow for flush mounting, whether rivets or screws.
Sometimes primer can pool in a simple hole and it changes the dimension (this has happened in holes that I machine countersunk). It’s not usually a big deal, but if I dimple after I prime, the dimple has the right dimensions. This works with AKZO, because the primer usually doesn’t flake off when I dimple. I sometimes use SEM on smaller parts, and that primer is more brittle. So when I’m using that primer, I dimple then prime.
Oh yes, two other big reasons: if you dimple before priming, it’s hard to scuff up the inside of the dimple hole and the primer doesn’t stick as well. Also, if you dimple before scuffing, it will grate up your 3M pads really quickly. (On the stickie-outie side of the dimple).
Agreed, scuffing flat surfaces is much easier than working on contoured ones. I’m just concerned that dimpling after priming might lead to some epoxy delamination
Sorry for the delayed response; it’s actually a 3x gun. I got it from Cleveland tools: cleavelandtool.com/products/3x-rivet-gun?_pos=1&_sid=266e130e1&_ss=r
AkzoNobel 463-12-8 Epoxy Primer.
A chemically cured, two-component epoxy primer designed to provide maximum protection from various chemicals, hydraulic fluids, aviation fuels, phosphate ester (Skydrol) fluids and corrosion causing media
Many thanks for the video. I'm building an RV-14A and was not sure if all elevator rib tabs are not to be dimpled. It looks as though you did not dimple them. You do a fantastic job explaining things in your videos which leads me to believe you may be a professor (good/enjoys teaching things to others). I just bought the same hydraulic squeezer but haven't used it for dimpling get. I believe I will give it a try. Thanks again for your videos. RWG
Thank you for the kind words! If I remember correctly, I *did* dimple the ribs where they connect to the skins (I don’t film everything…). I would read the instructions carefully - something I don’t always do which leads to me getting continually burned…
Oh yeah, the Numatx squeezer is awesome. I don't know how people get by with the clunky one. It's nice not to have to change the throw as well.
As a kid with ADD :) you describe each process perfectly. thankful you've got these videos for us.
Thanks, though I think there are better build videos (and even better: blogs) that explain how things work. I'm aiming for semi-entertaining more than how-to.
So dimpling is basically countersinking.. but for rivet holes instead of screw holes…?
It's different from countersinking in that you aren't removing material for the flush rivet to be even with the surface of the skin. Rather, your are, well, dimpling the material. This means there is a recess on the surface (which is what you would get with a countersink) but also a protrusion on the other side (which you would not get with a countersink). The skins are generally too thin to countersink. However, there is a lot of countersinking on thicker materials. Does this make sense?
Check this out for more info:
www.kitplanes.com/best-practices-solid-rivets/
@@buildingthe10 okay, awesome, that's a good explanation and I appreciate the response. Sounds like two different procedures, but the underlying purpose is the same: allow for flush mounting, whether rivets or screws.
@@flightsimguides Exactly.
drdt2??? just call it espresso machine
why you prime before dimple, but not dimple and then prime?
Sometimes primer can pool in a simple hole and it changes the dimension (this has happened in holes that I machine countersunk). It’s not usually a big deal, but if I dimple after I prime, the dimple has the right dimensions. This works with AKZO, because the primer usually doesn’t flake off when I dimple.
I sometimes use SEM on smaller parts, and that primer is more brittle. So when I’m using that primer, I dimple then prime.
Oh yes, two other big reasons: if you dimple before priming, it’s hard to scuff up the inside of the dimple hole and the primer doesn’t stick as well. Also, if you dimple before scuffing, it will grate up your 3M pads really quickly. (On the stickie-outie side of the dimple).
Agreed, scuffing flat surfaces is much easier than working on contoured ones. I’m just concerned that dimpling after priming might lead to some epoxy delamination
What brand of 2x rivet gun is that ? I have a 3x from planetools and it works well, but I'm interested on trying a 2x. Im building a 10 as well.
Sorry for the delayed response; it’s actually a 3x gun. I got it from Cleveland tools:
cleavelandtool.com/products/3x-rivet-gun?_pos=1&_sid=266e130e1&_ss=r
Where did you buy the small hydraulic squeezer?
It’s a Numatx squeezer; I bought it direct from them.
numatx-tools.com/products/squeezer-systems.html
Didn’t know about the blind rivet dimple tool set. Definitely going to look into it. Add to wish list wait for sale tool lol