Видео

@@JohnBunn-c3z thanks!

@@smokeweeee yes, of course. You can email me at Brett.myers@ttu.edu, and we can also chat on the phone if you want.

From here: www.airpowerinc.com/1716008-1

I think they’re awesome, should be standard, no reason not to use them.

It’s a Numatx squeezer. I think I bought it directly from the vendor: numatx-tools.com/. It has constant force through length of throw so no adjusting. It’s small and easy to maneuver, I just set to it 55psi for 3/32 rivets or 85psi for 1/8 rivets. I love this thing.

@ Thanks, I’m just starting out on the 10. I built a 8 many years ago. Really enjoy your video’s.

@@JohnBunn-c3z thanks! I can’t imagine having to adjust for throw for every rivet length or dealing with the bulk of the other squeezer. I was a bit hesitant with this one because not as many people seem to use it and some people said it was finicky. There was a little bit of setup initially but I’ve been using it with zero issues. I’m glad I bought it.

I used solder sleeves for the power and ground 2 to 1. The signal line out from the outboard sender connects to a line in wire on the inboard sender. The outboard sender has three wires: power, ground, signal. The inboard sender has four wires: power, ground, signal in (from outboard sender) and signal out. Does this make any sense? I don’t think I am explaining very well…. I can send you pics if you’d like.

@@buildingthe10 Pictures would be great! I'm also curious how you attached the ground wires from the senders to the airframe. It looks like you used a pulled rivet to connect the ring terminal to the bracket you fabricated. That seems more secure than a screw/bolt. Very nice work - and thank you for taking the time to reply. You have been super helpful to me in my build! -Brian (bertschb@geeemaledotcom)

I just sent you an email, let me know if you don't get it...

That is very true. I am going to use another person next time, though; if I had two hands on the rivet gun it wouldn't be a problem at all.

Thank you for the kind words! And yes, you should!

I'm not sure. My guess is that this is where the stress is concentrated and the bolts are stronger...

The main spars for the wings have been anodized by Vans for corrosion protection. And that's basically it.

My son is a CS major and he bought me that. In fact, he bought half of those stickers.

I decided to get the extended range tanks after I already put the leading edge on one of the wings. It wasn’t my plan to add them originally. In fact, I think they came out after I put the first wing together, but I might be wrong on that.

Back riveting is fast but kind of tricky. It’s easy to get rivets that lean over if they are too long.

EZ coat. A vendor from SEM said it was best for this application….

Normally you put the rivet gun on the side of the machine head and you out a bucking bar on the other side (and that forms the shop head). In back riveting, you put the flush rivet against the a solid flat piece of metal (underneath the sheet metal) and the you use the rivet gun directly to form the shop head. Here is a good video on how it works: ruclips.net/video/dLO29Q2zpCg/видео.htmlsi=4T9VrnNItl_NiSiY

thank you for the link. the guy also uses special set for the rivet gun with spring loaded “capture devices”.

@@apivovarov2 yes, mine has the same thing.

Yeah, I overdid it on that. But I have more epoxy than I could use on 10 builds…

The tab angle is set by a servo motor. It basically will push the rudder in one direction or the other without any control input. The elevators also have trim tabs (the RV10 comes with those - pretty much every airplane has elevator trim tabs). The aileron trim for the RV10 uses a spring rather than a trim tabs to allow the roll to be trimmed (this is an option offered by Vans).

That's a great idea! I hadn’t thought to do this…

The next video I’m gonna make will go over how I prep all my parts - I’ll cover priming in that. As for how far along I am, I’m 50-70% done with building the basic structure of the airplane. But I still have to wire avionics, install the engine, and that takes time (there’s a saying - I’m 90% done with 90% to go - I really understand this saying at this point). But I’m farther along than the videos suggest in that I have a lot of completed parts but haven’t put them together yet (e.g., putting the horizontal and vertical stabilizers on the tail cone along with the rudder and elevators). My wife probably thinks that I’m just making parts (which is how I think about the process). But within the year, she will walk into the garage and see a structure that absolutely looks like an airplane. I’m not sure she’s going to like that, but I will!

Nope. But in the short time I’ve been building, engine prices have doubled. And, wow, does that suck.

I bet he’s still building but got tired of making videos. But that’s just a guess…

Sometimes primer can pool in a simple hole and it changes the dimension (this has happened in holes that I machine countersunk). It’s not usually a big deal, but if I dimple after I prime, the dimple has the right dimensions. This works with AKZO, because the primer usually doesn’t flake off when I dimple. I sometimes use SEM on smaller parts, and that primer is more brittle. So when I’m using that primer, I dimple then prime.

Oh yes, two other big reasons: if you dimple before priming, it’s hard to scuff up the inside of the dimple hole and the primer doesn’t stick as well. Also, if you dimple before scuffing, it will grate up your 3M pads really quickly. (On the stickie-outie side of the dimple).

Agreed, scuffing flat surfaces is much easier than working on contoured ones. I’m just concerned that dimpling after priming might lead to some epoxy delamination

Lol, yup! Fortunately I am *highly* experienced with drilling out rivets!

@@buildingthe10I feel that! Can’t wait to drill out the LCP tailcone bulkheads and frames in my -10 build 🫠

@@brendonreap7468 yeah, the whole LCP stuff was fun. The engineering report was reassuring - even with small cracks, dimpled parts seemed to perform OK. I probably have to rebuild my flaps and ailerons but I don’t see any cracks using a borescope so I’m going back and forth on that…

@@apivovarov2 no, I’m only using epoxy primer. This is only for the interior components and parts, so wear isn’t as much of a concern. As far as the exterior goes, I’m gonna pay someone to do that. Most paint shops to what you’re describing…

is it AKZO FAST DRYING INTERIOR EPOXY PRIMER , two components A 463-12-8 and B CA-116?

⁠or chromate AkzoNobel 10P20-44?

@@apivovarov2 That is correct, I'm using 463-12-8 (not 10P4-2NF). I bought it from SkyGeek here: skygeek.com/akzonobel-463-12-8kit-akzonobel-463-12-8-fluid-resistant-epoxy-primer-2-gallon-kit.html. I've found that it sticks very, very well and is very durable. It won't come off with acetone (and other caustic chemicals). By contrast, most 1-part primer comes off immediately with acetone. It is also really easy to spray. I use 3M disposable cups and nozzles (I reuse the latter) and cleanup isn't a problem. Also, I shoot it outside in my driveway and haven't really noticed fumes. I like the stuff, but it is expensive...

I have no ideas as to what kind of balloons they were; I just used rubber bands around the vent line to seal any leaks. Also, you might want to put duct tape over the fuel cap area - that's another place you can get leaks (the fuel cap doesn't always seal completely). I didn't do this the first time I put the balloons on and they deflated somewhat over the course of a few days. I think air can also leak through the balloon itself: I left these in my dining room for about three months and, over time, the balloons did get noticeably smaller. You may just want to inflate a balloon all by itself to see if this is an issue. Finally, the barometric pressure can have a large effect on the size of the balloon. I found that changes in pressure can make the balloon noticeably larger or smaller. My sense is that, if you do not find any leaks with soapy water, then you are probably OK (I checked like three times because I wasn't satisfied). I also thought about filling the tanks with colored water and putting white paper towels below the tanks, but ultimately decided against that...

@@bertschb I did have that problem on one of them - it didn’t move freely. I ground down the bell crank thingie a little too much. I added a thin washer and it solved the problem.

@@buildingthe10 Thanks. I did the same thing - ground the bellcrank down a little too much trying to get it to swivel freely. I'll try again tomorrow with fresh eyes (and more shims)! Hope your son is doing ok.

@@bertschblet me know how it goes!

@@buildingthe10 My problem turned out to be caused by the ends of the bellcrank pivot tubes not being perfectly square. They looked square but they were actually off by .005" to .008" and that is way too much for this exercise. A neighbor of mine offered to turn the bellcrank pivot tubes on his lathe which is the only way to truly get them square. They still don't swing under their own weight but they do swing freely across their entire path and there is very little drag. The only bummer is I don't know how much drag there is with the factory bushings so I have nothing to compare it to. Hey, at least we don't need to lube them! Thanks again for sharing your videos with us. They have been VERY helpful to me. -RV-14 builder from central Oregon, USA

They all popped out, no problem. The epoxy didn't stick to them at all... Of course, I did have to clean a lot of Vaseline off the clecos.

Thanks! I should probably do more of that...

@@buildingthe10 Also, sharing why you may add to or slightly deviate from is the same. Thanks for the help!!!

Yess!! This is what I love about the community. It's a forum of learning from each other and getting each others idea of how others can move forward. Thank you Austin for this comment because as you know, I'm almost at this point of my build and the feedback is valuable.

Why didn’t the epoxy bond to the skin or did you add something to mitigate?

@@thecode3fcif you watch carefully he put packing tape under it to keep it from sticking to skin.

@@LISRAREF Thx!

Yup, just packing tape. It popped right off, no problems.

@@J-Justice666 that’s a problem for tomorrow me. Or, at the rate things are going, a problem for my grandkids. But seriously, I can do everything in the garage except putting on the wings. So I’ll be moving to a hanger in a few years…

That's not a bad idea; the talking while doing nothing is a little boring. The trick is that, well.. filming is kind of a pain in the butt. A large part of the time building this thing is spent staring at the plans, trying to figure out what to do, and then doing it; setting up camera angles and thinking how the eventual video will turn out takes a lot of bandwidth. So usually I just say what I'm going to do, take some footage while I'm building, and then hope that I can piece together a passable video.

@@buildingthe10 I'm not a videographer but I figure you are providing audio and then video with music. Why not combine the two with voice overs.. I don't know what kind of equipment you have but you could play a video that you recorded and then talk into the microphone describing what you're doing in the video that way the timing is right and synchronized. if you film something and even if you sped it up for us in a time-lapse you can still say something while that's going on and make your videos shorter.. I'm not suggesting getting rid of all the FaceTime video altogether just have a little audio description while the work is being done. Just my two cents gathered from watching thousands of hours of RUclips videos.. By the way I always wondered what those clecos were called..

@@buildingthe10 I also wanted to say I know how you feel. I'm a sailor and have a few boats that I have to work on now and then (Nothing that flies). These things still have to get me home at the end of the day, so I get it.... I was an AMH (Aviation Hydraulics Mechanic) and Aircrewman in the Navy, so again, I understand the complexity of your build. Something this complicated and this important (not having a failure) has to be done right the first time. You might not have a chance to do it again once you've buttoned it all up. And it takes a long time to make sure you've got it done right (inside) before you've closed it up and can't get to the components anymore. Yeeeeesh! The "Did I miss anything." must come up a lot. Hold fast... Take your time.... I've subscribed so I'll be back to see what happens next.

@@J-Justice666 That's not a bad suggestion; my brother-in-law has told me exactly the same thing. I've also thought of adding text call-outs on some things, I think that would be pretty cool.

@@buildingthe10 Well this is going to be a loooong build, so you'll have plenty of content with no need at all to milk it. Haha. I hope you'll stick with the video making and keep us posted on your progress. JB standing by on 16.

Almost all of them are final sized, particularly the #40 and #30 holes. If you noticed the part where I assembled, drilled, disassembled, deburred, and then reassembled... I forgot to enlarge some holes for some bolts when I test fit everything earlier. But most of the holes are final sized.

It's this one: www.mcmaster.com/5718A43/

That's awesome; while I'm ready to move on from wings, it was fun to build them!

It's called a "no-hole" or "thin-nose" yoke. Mine is 3" and I believe I got it from Clevealand Aircraft Tool, but a number of vendors sell them. When they are handy, they are very very handy.